Chemists.—M. Nogues, Place Lafayette; and M. Jouaneton, 22Place de Strasbourg.
Restaurant.—M. Vignes, Place Lafayette.
Nurses.—Les Soeurs de l'Esperance, 9 Avenue de Salut.
Draper.—Cornet, Allée des Constons, No. 22.
Grocer (selling English goods of all kinds).—M. Peltier, 5Boulevard du Collège.
Confectioners.—Mdme. Cheval, Rue du Centre, 19. M. Toujas, No. 10 same street.
Carriages.—Courtade, Place des Pyrenees, No. 14; Pourponnet, 3Rue Labrun.
Horses.—Bourdettes, 25 Place Lafayette.
There is service all the year in the small English Church, and the present chaplain, the Rev. J. Grundy, M.A. Oxon., is always willing to assist visitors in any way, and glad to accept the offer of their services in the choir.
The cost of living in the winter averages 10 frs. in the best hotels, and between 7 and 9 in others; but the prices rise considerably in summer.
Post and Telegraph Office, Theatre, Casino, Museum andReading-rooms in the town.
Guides.—Fages, senior and junior, 8 Rue de Lorry; Idrac, RueLongue; Arnauné, Rue de Lorry.
Principal Excursions:—[Footnote: Forfullparticulars of these and all excursions, the reader is referred to P. Joanne's 'Pyrenees'; Mr. Packe's 'Guide to the Pyrenees for Mountaineers'; and Count Russell's 'Grandes Ascensions des Pyrénées' (French and English).] To Aste, Gerde, Lourdes, Campan, Baudean, Ste. Marie, the Col d'Aspin, and up the Bédat and the Monné. Refer to Chapter II, for information.
Caesar's Camp, 2 hrs. there and back, by the village of Pouzac.
Les Allées dramatiques, 2 hrs. there and back, riding—3 hrs. on foot; between the Bédat and the Monné, a pretty walk.
The Slate Quarries and Spring of Labassère, 6 hrs. there and back; 1-1/4 hrs. to Labassère; 2 hrs. to the Quarries; 3 hrs. to the Spring. Guide 6 frs.; horses 10 frs. each.
The Mont-Aigu, 10 hrs. there and back, guide 15 frs. The view from the summit is immense; it extends over three valleys.
The Vallée de Lesponne and the "Lac bleu," 9 hrs. there and back. Carriage-road to the end of valley; mulepath the remainder of the way. Guide 8 frs., horse 10 frs.
Gripp (10 miles). Carriage-road all the way. Same road as far asSte. Marie as that to Col d'Aspin.
Pic du Midi de Bigorre, 6 hrs. 45 min. to the summit; Guide 6 frs., horse 10 frs. A magnificent excursion, but easier from Barèges.
Pêne de l'Heris, 2 hrs. 45 min. to summit. A pleasant excursion.
Houn Blanquo, 9 hrs. there and back. Guide 8 frs., horse 10 frs.A splendid mountain panorama in view, from the summit.
Puits de la Pindorle [Footnote: See footnote p. 226.]—a natural ice-cave, spoken of by Mr. Packe as "unique in its kind in the Pyrenees"—8 hrs. there and back. Guide and ropes necessary.
BAGNERES DE LUCHON (2065 ft.).—A lovely town in the WesternPyrenees (Hautes), situated near the junction of the Pique with theOne, at the mouth of the Larboust valley, and in the western angle ofthe valley of Luchon.
The most fashionable of all the Pyrenean watering-places.
Season.—1st of June to the end of October; but most charming inMay and early June.
The Bathing Establishment is a very ponderous building, containing accommodation second to none. The springs are nearly all naturally heated, varying from 103° to 150° Fahr.; they may be divided into four classes: 1st, sodium sulphate; 2nd, saline; 3rd, bicarbonate of iron; 4th, saline, but cold. The sulphur springs are considered the best and most complete series known; and the iron are principally used for drinking purposes. The waters of Luchon are considered specially beneficial for chronic bronchitis, rheumatism (articular and muscular), vesical catarrh, reopened wounds, fractures, scrofulous and cutaneous affections, and ulcers. In cases where there are complications, nervous excitement, or paralysis, a medical man should always be consulted before venturing to bathe.
There is an iron spring near the Castelvieil, 1-1/2 miles from Luchon.
In the "Etablissement Thermal" the terms range from 60 cents to 4 frs. There are baths of all kinds, and it is advisable, if the bather wishes to bathe at any special time, that he should enter his name in the book kept for that purpose, as soon as he arrives. In the season there is always a great pressure of visitors, and otherwise the bather may have to wait an hour or two for his turn. There was once a Museum above the baths, this has now been removed to the splendid Casino which stands in beautiful grounds, not far from the Post and Telegraph Office—entrance I franc.
Hotels.—Canton, || Richelieu (very large but not recommended),Grand, Bonnemaison, Paris, d'Angleterre, d'Etigny, de France, desBains, Monteil, du Parc, de la Paix.
Apartments.—Of all descriptions, in the Allée des Bains, RueNeuve, Cours d'Etigny, Allée des Veuves, &c. &c.
Doctors.—Several, both attached to the baths and independent.
Carriage and Horse Proprietors.—Almost innumerable, but JeanSanson is recommended, Rue d'Espagne.
Guides.—For the summits (French): Pierre Barrau, Rue de Pigué,Aurillon, Lafon fils, Capdeville senior and junior, Fermin Barrau.(Spanish) Francisco. For ordinary excursions and hunting: Jean and LuisSanson; Jean Brunet, chamois-hunter (recommended for all ascensionsfrom the Lac d'O).
Tariff for drinking the waters only.—During season, 8 days, 4 frs.; 20 days, 8 frs.; 30 days, 10 frs.
Carriage on Hire (from the stand).—The "course," 1 franc; the hour, 3 frs. for one horse; and 1 fr. 30 cents, and 3 frs. 75 cents respectively, for two horses—by day. By night, for one horse, 2 frs. 50 cents the "course," and 4 frs. the hour; for two horses, 3 frs. 25 cents and 5 frs. respectively.
For all excursions there is a recognised tariff, which may be seen at the Mairie; and an excellent local guide-book and map is published for 2 frs. by Lafont.
The Chief Excursions:—
For Superbagnères (horses and guide 5 frs. each respectively, hay on the summit 1 fr. out of the season, but 2 frs. more each person in the season), Vallée du Lys (20 to 25 frs. for a landau), Bosost (carriageviaSt. Béat, 45 frs., horses via the Portillon 5 frs. each, guide 6 frs.), Montauban (an easy walk), the Orphanage of Notre Dame du Rocher (a short and pleasant walk), St. Mamet (little more than 1/2 mile), the Rue d'Enfer (an easy climb from the Vallée du Lys), the Tour de Castelvieil (about two miles from Luchon), &c. &c. Refer to Chapter X.
The Val d'Esquierry (4839 ft.), 11 miles.—Carriage-road as far as Grange d'Astos (25 to 30 frs.) very rich in flora.
To the Hospice de Prance and the Cascades—des Demoiselles, et du Parisien, 9 1/4 miles. Carriage-road all the way. Landau, 25 frs.; but 4 frs. per seat in the Hospice diligence there and back.
To the Port de Venasque and the Pic de Sauvegarde, returning by the Port de la Picade; 10 miles to the Port de Venasque—1 hour further to the summit of the Pic de Sauvegarde; 11 miles from the Port de la Picade to Luchon. Time, 10 to 11 hours there and back; but this fine excursion is rendered more enjoyable by sleeping at the Hospice (videabove), and starting early next day for the summits.
The Valley Of Oueil and the village of Bourg (9 1/3 miles). Carriage there and back, 30 frs. From Bourg the Pic de Montné can be ascended. Splendid sunrise view from summit. Guide recommended if ascension is made by night; horses 7 frs., guides 10 frs.; or by day 7 frs.
Lac d'Oo (10 miles).—Carriage-road for 8 miles. Landau, 25 frs. This lake, also called Seculejo, is full of salmon-trout, and there is a very fine cascade (820 ft.) on the far side, to which visitors can be ferried. Fare for one person 1 1/4 frs.—for more, an arrangement can be made. There is a small toll levied on every person who visits this lake—no matter whether they patronise the little inn or not!
Saint Béat.—By carriage 25 frs., or by rail to Marignac and diligence afterwards (12 1/2 miles). Refer to Chapter XI.
L'Antenac.—6 1/2 hours to the summit and back. Horse and guide each 6 frs. An enjoyable excursion; and the whole distance can be ridden.
Pic Spijoles.—4 1/2 hours from the Lac d'Oo—a difficult ascension.
Pic de Crabioules.—13 hours up and down. Guide necessary.Splendid view.
Pic Quairat.—5 hours from the Lac d'Oo. Guide necessary.
Le Céciré.—8 hours up and down. Guide and horses 6 frs. each.
Pic Sacroux,—8 1/2 hours to the summit and back. Very fine view.
The Peaks Bacanère and the Pales de Burat (11 3/4 miles).—9 hours there and back. Horses and guides from 5 to 8 frs. each, according to season. One of the most charming of all the excursions from Luchon.
L'Entécade.—7 hours in all. Guides and horses 6 frs. each. A much-regimented climb. Splendid view from summit.
Pic de Poujastou.—8-1/2 hours in all. Guides and horses 6 frs. each; an easy climb.
The Mont Maudits or Maladetta Group, the highest in the range, including the Pic de Nethou (11,169 ft.), Pic 'du Milieu (11,044 ft.), Pic de la Maladetta (10,867 ft.), Pic d'Albe (10,761 ft.), and the Pic Fourcanade (9456 ft.), are so difficult and perilous, and require such excellent guides, that the reader is referred for information to Mr. Packe's and Count Russell's books, previously mentioned.
Note.—Carriages from Bigorre to Luchon, 43-1/2 miles,viaArreau, 80 to 100 frs., 5 to 10 frs. pourboire, out of the season; 100 to 130 frs., and pourboire 10 frs., in the season.
BAREGES (4084 ft.), situated in a barren rocky gorge above Luz, in the Hautes-Pyrénées. It may be called the "Old Soldier's Resort," as the waters are specially efficacious for gunshot wounds.
The fine Bathing Establishment contains 30 separate bath-rooms, besides 3 douche-rooms, a spray-room, foot bath-room, &c. The springs vary in heat from 71° to 112° Fahr., and are of a similar nature, all containing large proportions of sulphur and baregine. Dr. Lee says, "The water when drunk has a diuretic, diaphoretic, and expectorant action; the bath, by its general and local stimulating properties, cleanses foul ulcers,… promotes the exfoliation of carious portions of bone and subsequent cicatrisation, and frequently causes foreign bodies which have been long imbedded … to make their way to the surface." It is also highly beneficial for old bullet-wounds, neuralgic affections, rheumatic pains, and stiff joints.
Hotels.—Del'Europe, De France, Des Pyrénées, Richelieu. Board and lodging from 10 to 15 frs. per day in the season (15th of June to September). No hotels open in winter, as the village is covered with snow.
The Climate even in summer is variable—great heat is frequently followed by great cold, necessitating the wearing of woollen under-clothing, which should always be taken.
Bathing Tariff, &c.—Baths and douches from I fr. to 2 frs. 50 cents. For each visit to the drinking-room 5 cents; subscription for one month, 10 frs.
Apartments.—One room, from 2 frs. 50 cents to 6 frs. per day, according to position and size.
Doctors at the Establishment, a few independent, and others fromLuz.
[Illustration: TWIXT FRANCE AND SPAIN PANORAMA OF THE HIGHER PYREANCHAIN.——VIEW TAKEN FROM THE SUMMIT OF THE PIC DU MIDI DE BIGORRE.]
Post and Telegraph Office in the season.
Carriages, Horses, and Asses in abundance; apply at the hotels.
Guides.—Of the 1st class: Bastien, Teinturier, Michael Pontis, Menvielle, &c. &c. for the lofty peaks; several of the 2nd class for minor excursions.
Chief Excursions::—
For the Promenade Horizontale and the Vallée de Lienz, refer toChapter VI.
Pic de Néré.—6 hrs. there and back. Beware of vipers.
Pic du Midi de Bigorre.—8 hrs. up and down. Guide and horses, 5 frs. each. The favourite excursion in the vicinity, and one of the finest in the Pyrenees. The panorama which is annexed is on a fine day truly magnificent. Horses can be taken to the summit, where there is an excellent inn.
Lacs d'Escoubous.—2 hrs. to the Lac d'Escoubous; 2 hrs. 30 min. to the Lac Blanc; 2 hrs. return. Guide 4 to 6 frs., horses ditto.
Pic d'Ayré.—6 to 7 hrs. up and down. Horses can be taken within 1/2 hr. of summit. Guide 6 frs., horses ditto.
Pic de Lienz.—5 hrs. up and down. A pleasant climb. See ChapterVI.
Le Néouville.—12 hrs. by the Col d'Aure, there and back. Guide necessary—10 frs. Splendid view over all the higher Pyrenees.
BAUDÉAN.—A village in the Campan valley on the Route Thermale, between Bigorre and Luchon, in the Hautes-Pyrénées.
BAYONNE.—City and first-class fortress in the Basses-Pyrénées, on the Adour and the Nive, standing some 2 miles from the shores of the terrible Biscay Bay. On the direct line from Bordeaux to Biarritz and Spain.
Hotels.—St. Etienne, Du Commerce, Ambassadeurs, St. Martin, De la Bilbaïna, De la Guipuzcoäna, and Du Panier fleuri. Rail to Négresse station for Biarritz; also narrow-gauge railway to BiarritzviâAnglet.
Splendid twin-towered cathedral, ancient fortifications, &c. Excellent market and good shops, which are more reasonable than at Biarritz.
Post and Telegraph Office, English Vice-Consulate, &c.
Cabs.—The course 1 fr., the hour 2 frs. 25 cents and 50 cents extra respectively for 2 horses.
Chocolate.—Fagalde.
Excursions to Cambo (10 miles), Croix de Mouguère, £c., see ChapterXIII.
BÉHOBIE.—A village in the Basses-Pyrénées, on the direct road to Spain, 14-1/4 miles from Biarritz.
BÉTHARRAM.—A pleasantly-situated village in the Basses-Pyrénées, once a favourite pilgrimage. There is a lovely bridge in the vicinity, and the Via Crucis just midway between the village and the bridge. It is situated on the direct road from Pau to Lourdes, and is 15 miles distant from the former, and 9-1/4 from the latter. The station on the railway, "Montaut-Bétharram," is about 2 miles from the village.
Inns.—De la Poste, De France. Celebrated grotto in the vicinity.
BIARRITZ, a favourite English winter resort on the shores of the Biscay, in the Basses-Pyrénées—2 miles from the Négresse station on the direct line to Spain, and 130 miles from Bordeaux. Living during the winter is considerably cheaper than at Pau, but the winds are much stronger and the air more bracing. Biarritz makes a valuable change from both Pau and Arcachon. It is free from epidemics, and beneficial in cases of paralysis, as well as chest and heart complaints.
Hotels.—De Paris et de Londres, || Il Grand Hotel, D'Angleterre (the favourite hotel with English people), Des Ambassadeurs, De France, Il Des Princes, De l'Europe, De la Poste, &c.
Apartments.—All over the town, varying in price according to position. Maison Brocq, || Maison Larrodé, || Maison Broquedis.
English Pension.—Villa du Midi, || Rue des Champs.
Doctors.—Dr. Welby, || Rue Gambetta. Dr. Malpas; Dr.Girdlestone.
Carriages.—Maümus, || Place St. Eugenie. Larrondat, Place de laMarie.
Libraries.—One in connection with the English Church. Lending library at Victor Benquet's, Place de la Marie (stationer, £c.).
Confectioners.—Figue, || Rue Mazagran; Miremont.|| Place de laMarie.
Photographer.—P. Frois, Rue du Port Vieux.
Banker.—E. H. Bellairs, Esq. (Vice Consul), InternationalBank.
"Depot Anglais," for wines, groceries, and English provisions, &c.
English Club, Post and Telegraph Office.
For principal excursions refer to Chapter XIII.
BIDART.—The first Basque village, 3 miles from Biarritz on the direct route to Spain—railway station, Bidart-Guétary.
BIELLE.—A village in the Basses-Pyrénées, on the road to EauxBonnes, in the Val d'Ossau, 18-1/4 miles from Pau. Inn, des Voyageurs.
BILHÈRES.—A village on the slopes of the Val d'Ossau, aboveBielle, in the Basses-Pyrénées—celebrated for the copper mines in thevicinity. It lies in the direct track from the Val d'Ossau to theVallée d'Aspe.
BlLLÈRES.—A small village near Pau, in the Basses-Pyrénées on the road to the ancient town of Lescar: the locally well-known "Bois de Billères" take their name from it.
BIZANOS.—A village below Pau, on the Gave, in theBasses-Pyrénées, on the direct road to Lourdes.
BOO-SILHEN.—A village and railway station on the line from Lourdes to Pierrefitte, in the Hautes-Pyrénées. There is the site of an ancient camp in the vicinity.
BOSOST.—A village in Spain (18 miles from Luchon by thePortillon), under the shadow of the Eastern Pyrénées, in the valley ofAran. This is a most pleasing excursion from Luchon, either onhorseback viâ the Portillon, or in a carriage viâ St. Béat. See ChapterX. Inn, Fonda d'España.
CAMBO.—A small picturesquely-situated bathing resort on the banks of the Nive, 10 miles from Bayonne, in the Basses-Pyrénées. A favourite excursion from Biarritz, with the extra attraction of good fishing.
Bathing Establishment, with a hot sulphur and cold ferruginous spring. The former has proved useful for its diuretic and laxative qualities, and efficacious in cases of languor following long illnesses: the latter is very rich in iron, and a useful tonic.
The Climate is exceedingly healthy in spring and autumn, but too warm in summer.
Hotel.—St. Martin.
Chocolate Manufactory.—Monsieur Fagalde's.
Doctor.—M. Albert Dotézac.
Carriages, Horses, and Asses, at various rates.
CAMPAN (2192 ft.)—A village in the Hautes-Pyrénées (3-3/4 miles from Bigorre) situated in the valley of the same name—on the direct road from Bigorre to Luchon; possesses an ancient church and market-place.
CAPVERN.—A bathing resort in the Hautes-Pyrénées, built on a hill two miles distant from the bathing establishments, which are erected in a narrow ravine. One of the stations on the main line between Toulouse and Pau, being 78 miles distant from the former and 56 from the latter. The climate is mild, and the season lasts from the 15th of May to the 1st of November.
Two Bathing Establishments—De Hount-Caoudo and de Bouridé. The water principally contains sulphate of lime with a small proportion of carbonate of iron: its action is diuretic and laxative. It is an excellent and bracing tonic, stimulating to the digestion, and has also been beneficially employed in cases of catarrh and certain liver complaints. The Hount-Caoudo spring has an exciting tendency; that of Bouridé a sedative one.
Hotels.—Grand, Beau Séjour, De Fontaine, De la Paix, Des Bains, etc.
Post and Telegraph Office in the season. CASTETS.—A small picturesquely-situated village in the Hautes-Pyrénées—off the high road between Pau and Eaux Bonnes—under a mile from Louvie Juzon. Lodging can be obtained at M. Fouga's.
CAUTERETS (3254 ft.)—A town situated in the gorge of the same name in the Hautes-Pyrénées, seven miles distant from Pierrefitte, the terminus of the line from Lourdes. It is said to be the most rich in mineral waters of any resort in the Pyrenees. From its position in a hollow, surrounded by lofty and beautiful mountains, it is frequently visited with a good deal of rain, and the climate is subject to severe changes in temperature, especially in spring, when the mornings and nights are cold. The season proper begins about the middle of June and lasts to the 15th of September. Living out of the season averages about 10 frs. per diem, but is much greater when once July has arrived, and consequently it is always best to write and make terms beforehand.
There are Nine Establishments for the Waters, among which twenty-four springs are divided. The springs may be classed under two heads—firstly, sodium sulphate; 2ndly, saline—both naturally heated.
The three most important establishments are—Les Oeufs, La Raíllère, and Les Thermes de Vieux César. The others are—Le Rocher-Rieumiset, Manhourat et Les Yeux, Pauze Vieux, Pauze Nouveaux, Petit St. Sauveur, and Le Pré; in addition to which there are two "buvettes," known as Buvette de César and Le Bois. The waters at the César Vieux are the most exciting of all, and prove beneficial in scrofulous and cutaneous affections, rheumatism, and tumours. Les Oeufs are specially efficacious in lung complaints; La Raíllère is used successfully in affections of the respiratory passages; Mauhourat is specially recommended to aid the digestion of La Raíllère's water; while Les Yeux are beneficial for affections of the eyes—as the name suggests. Le Petit St. Sauveur is efficacious in cases of hysteria and similar complaints.
Hotels.—Du Parc, || Continental, De France, Richelieu, Des Promenades,Des Boulevards, De la Paix, De Londres, Des Bains, D'Angleterre, etc.
Apartments to be found in all parts. The price of a single-bedded room varies from 3 to 10 frs. in the season. Much less at other times.
Doctors, in connection with the "Thermes," and many independent ones.
Chemists.—J. Latapie and M. Broca—both in the Place St.Martin.
Confectioners.—Patisserie Suisse, Rue César; PatisseriePyrénéenne, Rue de la Raillère.
Horses and Carriages in plenty—good steeds atDominique's, Rue de la Raillère.
Guides.—Sarrettes, Clément Latour, Latapie, Barraga, Bordenare; and also Berret, Lac Dominique, and Pont Dominique.
Post and Telegraph Office, Theatre, Casino, &c. Tariff for bathing, &c., similar to other resorts.
Horses for Excursions cost about 12 frs. for the day, for an ordinary trip 6 frs.; and for a few hours' ride 4 to 5 frs., with 50 cents to the ostler.
Carriage from Argelès, 20 frs. with luggage; pourboire 3 frs.
The Chief Excursions are:—
To the Col de Riou.—Splendid view. Guide 6 frs., horses 6 frs.Can be prolonged down the opposite side to St. Sauveur.
To the Cascade de Cérizey, Pont d'Espagne, and Lac deGaube.—Guides each 8 frs., horses 6 frs. The favourite trip.
Le Cabaliros.—6 hrs. up and down. Guide 10 frs., horses 10 frs.
Le Monné.—7 hrs. up and down. Horses and guide 10 frs. each, donkey 8 frs. Splendid view.
Pic d'Enfer.—8-1/2 hrs. and 12 hrs. respectively by the two routes. Good guides necessary—a difficult climb.
For the Vallée de Lutour refer to Chapter V. Pic d'Ardiden.—9 hrs. Guide essential—an interesting climb.
Pic de Vignemale,—18 to 20 hrs. not including rests. Guides, hatchets, and ropes necessary. Magnificent view from summit, but a very difficult trip.
CIER-de-Luchon.—A small village in the Haute Garonne, 4-1/2 miles from Luchon on the railway from thence to Montrejeau. CIERP.—A small village at the foot of a rock in the Pique valley—dep. Haute-Garonne—near Marignac, station for St. Béat on the line between Luchon and Montrejeau. COARBAZE.—A village in the Basses-Pyrénées on the road between Pau and Lourdes. Railway station on line connecting the above places; 10-1/2 miles from Pau. The ruins of a castle in the neighbourhood, in which Henry IV. spent his childhood. Refer to Chapter I. DAX.—A town on the Adour, and junction for Bordeaux from the Bayonne and Pau lines. Celebrated for its baths, which are of three kinds, steam, mud, and water. There are several bathing establishments, but the Grand Etablissement is the best, where board and lodging can be also obtained, at an all-round figure, including baths, of from 10 to 15 frs. per diem. These baths are very useful for affections of the larynx, articular enlargements, and most kinds of rheumatism and neuralgia. When drunk the water has a tonic and diuretic effect.
Hotels.—De la Paix, Du Nord, De France, Figaro, De l'Europe.
There are enjoyable walks about the town and some old ruins; and in the vicinity a bed of fossil salt.
EAUX BONNES is a miniature Spa hemmed in by the sides of a wooded gorge in the Basses-Pyrénées—27-1/2 miles from Pau and 6-1/4 from Eaux Chaudes; railway communication as far as Laruns ought now to be established: refer to Chapter XII. The waters, hot and cold, consist of five springs, sulphuret of sodium being largely present in all, and sulphate of lime in a less degree. There are two establishments —the Grand and the Ortech; but the former is far the most commodious, though the water is used for drinking purposes almost more than for bathing. The temperature varies in the different springs from 54° to 88° Fahr. The waters are specially recommended in cases of pulmonary consumption and affections of the air passages—also for chronic maladies of the abdominal viscera, intermittent fevers, hypochondria, and hysteria.
The Tariff is similar to that at the other Spas. Season,July and August.
The Climate is mild, but warm in summer.
Hotels.—De France, || Princes, Empereurs, Richelieu, Poste, Europe, Sallenave, Des Touristes, D'Espagne et d'Orient, De l'Univers, etc.
Apartments all over the town. The following are a few of the houses that let rooms:—Bonnecaze, Pommé, Berdou, Tourné. Living in hotels during the season costs from 10 to 20 frs., according toétage,per diem.
Chemists.—Cazaux fils, and Tourné.
Confectioners.—Patisserie Suisse.
Post and Telegraph Office.—The Route Thermale runs fromEaux Bonnes to Argelès, 26-1/2 miles: see Chapter XII.
Doctors in connection with the baths, and independent ones.
Horses and Carriages at the hotels, etc.
Guides.—Orteig, Lanusse, and Jean Pierre for lofty summits; also Maucor and Caillau, who, with Lanusse, are Horse proprietors as well. It is necessary to bargain about prices, as there is no fixed tariff, but 10 to 13 frs. per diem for ordinary trips ought to suffice, without providing food—with food, 3 or 4 frs. less.
The Chief Excursions are:—
For the Col de Gourzy and the Cascades du Valentin refer to ChapterXII.
Pic de Ger.—10 to 12 hours there and back. Guide 20 frs. and provisions necessary. Magnificent view.
Le Gabizos.—Whole day; provisions, liquor, and guide necessary.A tiring climb, but one of the finest views in the Pyrenees.
Pic de Goupey.—7 hours up and down; guide necessary.
Pic de St. Mont.—9 hours up and down, easy climb, guide not necessary.
Lacs d'Anglas et d'Uzious.—Guide and provisions necessary; a whole day; splendid excursion.
EAUX CHAUDES.—Another miniature Spa—less contracted in its position, but equally picturesquely situated in a wild gorge in the Basses-Pyrénées, 27-1/2 miles from Pau. The climate is bracing, but on account of the situation of the town it is not so good a residence for invalids with chest complaints as Eaux Bonnes—as the wind sweeps up the valley unchecked. It is, however, a glorious place for healthy people to stay in, and a good centre for excursions.
The Bathing Establishment is a fine building with good accommodation. There are seven important springs and two of less consequence; and they partake of the same nature as those of Eaux Bonnes, though the temperature extends about 10° Fahr. higher. They are largely charged with sulphur and lime, in combination with carbon and soda, and have an exciting action. They are especially useful in cases of catarrh, rheumatism, cutaneous diseases, and neuralgia. The "buvettes" of Baudot and Minvielle are largely patronised.
Hotels.—Baudot, || De France; and more expensive accommodation at "L'Etablissement Thermal."
Prices are less than at Eaux Bonnes. In the season they range from 10 to 16 frs., but from 8 to 12 at other times, "En Pension."—For one day or less than a week no fixed price can be quoted.
Doctors.—One in connection with the establishment.
Horses and Carriages to be obtained at the hotels or from the guides, who are mostly horse proprietors.
Guides.—Camy, Labarthe, Larrouy, Eugène Olivan, Jean Sallenave. Tariff not fixed, but 7 to 9 frs. per diem without providing food is sufficient, and 5 to 8 frs. for horses—though this is only for ordinary excursions and not perilous ones.
Bathing Tariff.—Similar to that of other Spas.
Chief Excursions are:—
Goust.—1 hour there and back; mule track.
Grotte des Eaux Chaudes.—2 hours there and back—for lights and permit 1 fr. 50 c. each is charged, guide 2 frs.
Gabas and the Bious-Artigues.—See Chapter XII. Rather over 8 miles; carriage road to Gabas, fine and pleasant trip.
Baths of Panticosa.—13 to 15 hours by the mule track; a favourite way into Spain.
To Huesca by Sallent and Jaca, a very lengthy trip, requiring several days.
Pic Scarput.—10 hours up and down; a very fine climb.
Lac d'Artouste.—10 hours up and down; a viper region.
Pic d'Arriel.—10 hours up and down; an exceedingly fine view from summit, but not an easy climb.
Le Balaïtous—14 hours. For ascension only, it is necessary to have good guides (at least two), as well as provisions, and to pass the night on the mountain in the Cabanes near the Lac d'Artouste. A difficult excursion, not unattended with considerable danger.
FONTARABIE (Fuenterabia, Sp.). A quaint old Spanish town on the left bank of the Bidassoa, just across the frontier, well worthy of a visit. About equidistant from the stations of Hendaye (Fr.) and Irun (Sp.) on the direct line from Bordeaux to Madrid. A pleasant excursion from Biarritz.
GABAS.—A village in the Basses-Pyrénées, 5 miles from Eaux Chaudes, near the famous plateau of the Bious-Artigues. Inn accommodation can be had, and it is a good starting-point for several excursions.
GAN.—A village in the Val d'Ossau in the Basses-Pyrénées, 5 miles from Pau. The road from Pau forks here, one branch leading to Oloron (15-1/2 miles), the other to Eaux Bonnes and Eaux Chaudes (22-1/2 miles). There are some mosaics under a shed in the vicinity. Hôtel (such as it is), Des Voyageurs.
GAVARNIE (4380 ft.). An unpretentious village with good hotel accommodation, situated among some of the most magnificent scenery in the Hautes-Pyrénées, 13 miles from Luz. For full description of the Cirque of Gavarnie refer to Chapter VIII., also for the Falls of Marboré, 1380 ft.
Hotels.—Des Voyageurs;|| De la Cascade.
There are several Mountains to be ascended in the neighbourhood requiring experienced guides; among which are Le Piméné, the Brèche de Roland, Le Taillon, Le Gabiétou, Le Marboré, Pic d'Astazou, and the Mont Perdu; but for further information the traveller is referred to the previously recommended authorities.
No Guides have a better reputation than those of Gavarnie, and of these Henri Passet and Celestin Passet have made all the great ascents of the French and Spanish Pyrenees; Pierre Pujo, Pierre Brioul, Poc, and Haurine are also men of experience in mountaineering.
[Illustration: CIRQUE OF THE VALLÉE DU LYS NEAR BAGNÈRES-DE LUCHON.]
Horses to the Cirque, 2 frs. each. Guides, 2 frs. each.Asses, 1 1/2 fr. each.
GAZOST-les-Bains.—A village in the Vallée du Nez, 7 1/3 miles from Lugagnan (the nearest station), on the line between Pierrefitte and Lourdes, in the Basses-Pyrénées. The baths, fed by four cold sulphurous springs, are less than 3/4 of a mile from the village, where there is a large sawmill. Very few people visit the baths, and they are in a miserable state. There are copper, zinc, and argentiferous lead mines in the neighbourhood.
Rooms at the Châlet de la Scieric.
GÈDRE (3214 ft.).—A poor village in lovely scenery (see engraving, page 122), on the side of a rocky gorge in the Hautes-Pyrénées, 8 miles from Luz and 4 from Gavarnie, on the direct road between the two.
Hotels.—Des Voyageurs, Palasset.
For information on the so-called Grotte de Gèdre see Chapter VIII. The two chief excursions from Gèdre are those to the Vallée de Héas and the Cirque de Troumouse, though they may be considered as one trip here. From Gèdre to the chapel of Héas 2 to 2 1/2 hours, from the chapel to the fork of the road 1/2 hour, and from thence to the Cirque 1 hour. This is a very fine excursion, occasionally undertaken from Luz and St. Sauveur.
GERDE.—A village in the Campan valley, in the Hautes-Pyrénées, near Bigorre. Known chiefly for thepalomièresor pigeon traps among the trees above it. See Chapter II.
GRIPP (3448 ft.).—A well-situated village in the Hautes-Pyrénées, on the Route Thermale, between Bigorre and Barèges, 2 1/2 miles from Ste. Marie. Tourists often find the Hôtel des Voyageurs comfortable enough to keep them there for a few days. A little beyond the village on the old road are the Baths of Bagnet, supplied by a cold sulphurous spring; they do not, however, call for much mention. The Falls of Garet are in the immediate vicinity.
GRUST.—A small village in the Hautes-Pyrénées. Refer to Sazos in Appendix.
GUÉTARY.—A Basque village in the Basses-Pyrénées, 3 miles fromBiarritz. The railway station, Bidart-Guétary, on the line betweenBordeaux and Madrid, is not far from the village.
HÉAS.—A hamlet in the Hautes-Pyrénées, five miles from Gèdre and eight from Gavarnie, by the Piméné.
Inn.—De la Munia, kept by Victor Chappelle, hunter; besides whom, Jacques Canton and François Lavignolle, chamois-hunters, are excellent guides. Chief excursion to the Cirque de Troumouse. See Gèdre.
HENDAYE.—The French frontier town on the Bay of Biscay in the Basses-Pyrénées, known for the manufacture of a liqueur of the same name. French Custom-house; station on the line between Bordeaux and Madrid. Good beach and bathing. Boats can be hired to cross the Bidassoa to Fuenterabia, at about 2 frs. for 3 persons; for information concerning which see Chapter XIII.
Buffet at the station.
Money changed.
Hotels/.—De France, Du Commerce, Americani.
IRUN.—The Spanish frontier town and railway station on the direct line between Bordeaux and Spain. Spanish Customhouse.
Buffet at the station, also a money changer.
Hotels.—Echenique, De Arupe.
IZESTE.—A village in the Basses-Pyrénées, near Louvie-Juzon andArudy, on the road between Eaux Bonnes and Oloron.
JACA.—A fortified town of Spain on the banks of the Aragon, 521/2 miles from Oloron, on the direct route to Huesca, from which it is 571/2 miles distant.
LABASSÈRE.—A village in the Hautes-Pyrénées, celebrated for its waters and slate quarries (refer to Bagnères de Bigorre). It is 11/2 hrs. distant from Bigorre; but its quarries take 1/2 hr. longer to reach, and the springs 1 hour after that. The celebrated water is bottled at the springs, but it is also sent in casks for use in Bagnères de Bigorre.
LAMOTHE.—A small village in the Landes, 25 miles from Bordeaux.Junction for Arcachon, 10 miles distant.
LARUNS.—An important though tumble-down village in the Val d'Ossau, in the Basses-Pyrénées, 31/4 miles from Eaux Bonnes and the same from Eaux Chaudes. The railway from Pau now extends to Laruns, 24 miles (see Chapter XII.), but the drive is more enjoyable, except on a dusty day. The picturesque costumes of the Ossau valley may still be seen occasionally at this village.
Hotels.—Des Touristes, Des Pyrénées. Living economical.
LESCAR.—An ancient and decaying town, 41/2 miles from Pau by rail. Several interesting ruins, &c., for which refer to Chapter I.
LOURDES.—A town in the Hautes-Pyrénées, and railway station on the direct line from Pau to Toulouse, and junction with the line to Pierrefitte. The great Roman Catholic Pilgrimage, having now quite eclipsed Bétharram, much visited formerly as a shrine. The grotto where the Virgin is supposed to have appeared is by the riverside. An admirable panorama represents the scene at one of these imaginary apparitions of the Virgin—known as Notre Dame de Lourdes, and always represented in that connection with a blue sash. Five and twenty years and superstition have transformed Lourdes from a little village into a fair-sized town, overloaded with hotels, of which the traveller is advised to be wary, especially during the pilgrim season, when the beds are apt to have other occupants than the "weary traveller's form." The Hôtel des Pyrénées may be trusted.
Hotels.—Des Pyrénées || (Mons. R. Lacrampe); Latapie; De la Grotte, De la Poste, De Paris, De l'Europe, De la Paix, D'Angleterre, &c.
Excellent Carriages on hire in the town and at the hotels.
Excursions to the Lac de Lourdes, &c.
LOURES (1445 ft.).—A village in the Hautes-Pyrénées, 17 1/2miles from Luchon and 3 from St. Bertrand de Comminges (see ChapterXI.), for which it is the station on the railway between Luchon andMontrejeau, and carriages await trains.
Hotels.—Pyrénées, Lassus.
LOUVIE-JUZON.—A village in the Val d'Ossau, Basses-Pyrénées, 16 miles from Pau, n. from Eaux Bonnes, and less than a mile from the ruins of the ancient castle of Géloz. There is a curious old church in the village, and the inn where the diligence daily halts is known as the Hôtel des Pyrénées.
LOUVIE SOUBIBON.—A small village at the foot of a mountain worked for its slates, 4 miles from the above.
LUZ (2410 ft.).—A well-situated village in a fertile valley in the Hautes-Pyrénées, 6 1/4 miles from Pierrefitte, the terminus of the line to Lourdes, 1 1/4 from St. Sauveur, and 3 3/4 from Barèges. From the last-named it receives water for its new Bathing Establishment (see Bareges in Appendix).
Hotels.—De l'Univers, || Des Pyrénées, De l'Europe, &c.
Apartments may also be obtained. Living is not on the whole expensive, but from July to September from 10 to 16 frs. may be charged—much less at other times (say from 7 to 10).
Carriages and Horses, Asses and Guides can be obtained for the various excursions (for which see St. Sauveur in Appendix).
Post and Telegraph Office.
For description of the old Church of the Templars and the Château St. Marie, &c., refer to Chapter VI. MAULÉON-BAROUSSE.—In the valley of Barousse, Hautes-Pyrénées, 3 1/4 miles from Saléchan, on the line between Montrejeau and Luchon; 4 1/2 miles from Ste. Marie (not to be confounded with the Ste. Marie near Bigorre).
Inn.—M. Grillon's.
MOLITG-les-Bains (1480 ft.).—Built on a terrace above the Castellane Gorge in the Pyrénées Orientales, 5-1/2 miles from Prades and 31 from Perpignan.
The Bathing Establishments (of which there are three) are situated a mile below the village, in the gorge, and they are supplied by 10 springs of a similar nature, largely charged with sulphate of soda, and of temperatures varying from 88° to 100° Fahr. The water has emollient and sedative properties, slightly diuretic, and is especially useful in diseases of the skin and nerves.
The Climate is very mild in winter, but hot in summer; and the season extends from May to October.
Hotels.—The best accommodation is to be had at the bathing establishments Barrère, Llupia, and Massia, all of which belong to M. Massia, who is a doctor by profession.
Chief Excursions are:—
To Olette by the Gourgs de Nohèdes (11 hours there and back).
To the Baths of Carcanières (about 11 hours thereonly)viaMosset.
MONTAUBAN.—A village in the Hautes-Pyrénées, 1-1/2 miles fromLuchon (see Chapter X.), known for its church and cascade.
MONTGAILLARD.—A village on the banks of the Adour, in theHautes-Pyrénées, 5 miles from Bigorre: station on the line betweenBigorre and Tarbes.
MONTREJEAU.—A town standing on an eminence above the river in the Haute-Garonne, junction for Luchon from the Pau-Toulouse line.
Hotels.—Leclair (fine situation); Pouget, well-known; &c.
Buffet at the station. Refer to Chapter XI. for further information.
MORCENZ.—A town in the "Landes" district, 68 miles from Bordeaux, and junction for the Tarbes-Bigorre line. There is a small bathing establishment in the town, supplied by a cold chalybeate spring; and a quarry of lithographic stone in the neighbourhood.
Buffet at station.
Inns.—Commerce, Ambassadeurs.
NAY.—An ancient village in the Basses-Pyrénées, on the leftbank of the Gave de Pau. Station, Coarraze-Nay, on the line fromPau to Lourdes; 10-1/2 miles from the former and 14 from the latter.Tanneries, &c., and ancient buildings. See Chapter I.
Inns.—Du Commerce, De France.
NÉGRESSE.—The station for Biarritz (2 miles from the town), on the direct line between Bordeaux and Madrid.
NESTALAS.—A village in the Hautes-Pyrénées, near Pierrefitte; the station being known as Pierrefitte-Nestalas, the terminus of the line from Lourdes. Hotel accommodation at Pierrefitte (which see in Appendix).
OLORON.—A town on a hill above the river of same name, in the Basses-Pyrénées, 20 miles from Pau, by Gan and Belair. Its suburb (across the river) Sainte Marie possesses a fine old church of the Transition style. The railway was to be opened this year (1883) in communication with Pau and Laruns. Oloron is celebrated for some exquisite pottery, that can be bought in all the chief Pyrenean resortsexceptthe town itself.
Hotels.—De la Poste, Des Voyageurs, De l'Aigle.
Oo.—A small village with an ancient church, in the Haute-Garonne, 5-1/2 miles from Luchon, and 4-1/2 from the lake of the same name.
Guide.—Jean Brunet.
ORTHEZ.—An ancient town situated on a hill above the Gave de Pau, in the Basses-Pyrénées. The Tour de Moncade, in the vicinity, has great historic interest, besides which there is an ancient bridge and other remains of olden days (see Chapter I.). Coach to Salies (10 miles), and Mauléon-Licharre (27 miles).
Inns.—De la Belle-hôtesse, Des Pyrénées, &c.
PAILLOLE (or Payole).—A village in the Hautes-Pyrénées, 11-1/4 miles from Bigorre, on the Route Thermale,viathe Col de Peyresourde to Luchon. See Chapters I. and IX.
Inn.—De la Poste.
PANTICOSA.—A village in Spain, 24 miles from Cauterets, celebrated for its waters. The bathing establishments are fed by four springs of the sulphurous type. They are variously used for dyspepsia, rheumatism, skin diseases, scrofula, and chronic (non-tubercular) chest affections. They have a purgative and sedative action.
Hotels.—Accommodation can be best obtained in the nine different bathing establishments belonging to the same proprietor; there are also the D'Espagne and FrancoEspagnol.
Horses.—At about 5 to 7 francs per diem, at the Maison Borda.
Doctors.—Attached to the establishments.
PASAGES.—A village on the shores of a tidal bay in Spain, 30 miles from Bayonne and 6-1/4 from Irun. It was once the safest port in the Biscay. Refer to Chapter XIII.
PAU (770 ft.).—A former capital, and most important town on the right bank of the Gave of same name, in the Basses-Pyrénées. A favourite winter resort with English and Americans, possessing hotels, markets, and shops of the best and most varied descriptions. An excellent starting-point for a tour in the Pyrenees. For history, &c., see Chapter I.
Hotels.—France, || Poste, || Gassion, De la Paix, SplendideBellevue, Beau Séjour, || Grand Continental, De Londres, Henri IV., &c.
Pensions.—Colbert, || Hattersly, Etcherbest, Lecour, &c.
Apartments.—All over the town.
Season.—1st of October to end of May.
Villas. Can be hired furnished, for the season, at prices varying from £8 per month to £80.
Baths.—Rue Alexander Taylor, and 13 Rue d'Orleanb, &c.
Carriage Proprietors.—Ranguedat, || Crohare, || &c. £c.
Horse Proprietors.—Estrade, || Peiho, || Lanusse.
T-Carts and Good Ponies.—Schürch, Rue de la Fontaine.
English Churches.—Trinity Church, Rue des Temples; ChristChurch, Rue Serviez; St Andrew's Church, Rue Calas; PresbyterianChurch, Rue Montpensier.
Bankers.—Merillon, || will take English cheques, &c.; Mr.Church, English Vice-Consul; Mr. M. Clay, U. S. ViceConsul; Tricou, &c.
Post and Telegraph Office, Reading—Rooms, Theatre, Casino, &c.
English Club.—Place Royale.
For the principal Excursions and sports and pastimes, refer toChapter I.; for trips to Eaux Bonnes and Eaux Chaudes, refer to ChapterXIII.
PAYOLE.—See Paillole in Appendix.
PERPIGNAN.—A large town on the river Tet, in the Pyrénées Orientales, junction for Prades (station for Vernet), from the Toulouse line and starting-point of the coach for Amélie; 132 miles from Toulouse, 25 1/2 from Prades, 29 1/2 from Molitg, 32 1/2 from Vernet, and 23 1/2 from Amélie. It is fortified; celebrated for its garnet jewellery; and situated in a valley covered with groves of olive and pomegranate, and fruitful vineyards. Cathedral; château (splendid view from donjon tower) in the Citadol, entrance i fr.; theatre, Picture Gallery, &c.
Hotels.—Grand, De France, De l'Europe, Du Petit Paris, &c.
Post and Telegraph Office.
The Chief Excursions are:—
La Salanque, the whole day, by carriageviaSt. Laurent de la Salanque; Torreilles; Ste. Marie and Villelongue de la Salanque.
Castell Rossello et Canet.—6 1/4 miles; carriage-road part of the way.
PEYREHORADE.—Village in the Landes, and station on the line between Puyoo (13 miles) and Bayonne (19 miles).
Inns.—Lafond Des Voyageurs.
PIERREFITTE.[Footnote: The station is calledPierrefitte-Nestalas.]—A village situated at the foot of the Pic deSoulom and the Gorge de Cauterets in the Hautes Pyrénées. Terminus ofthe railway line from Lourdes, and starting-point for the diligences toCauterets, Luz, St. Sauveur, and Barèges.
Hotels.—De la Poste, || Des Pyrénées, De France. Living more moderate than at any of the above-mentioned towns or Argelès. For further information see Chapter IV.
PRESTE-LES-BAINS.—A bathing-resort in the Eastern Pyrenees, 19 miles from Amélie (to which refer in Appendix), and 42-1/2 from Perpignan, the nearest railway station.
The Bathing Establishment is supplied by one sulphurous spring only, partaking of much the same properties as the more celebrated ones at the larger resorts, being specially beneficial, when drunk, for lithiasis and catarrh of the bladder.
Hotel accommodation in the Bathing Establishment.
Season.—June to October.
PUYOO.—A village in the Basses-Pyrénées, one mile distant from the station of same name; junction for Bayonne from the line between Bordeaux and Pau; from which it is 11-1/2 miles and 32-1/2 miles distant, respectively.
Hotels.—Lafont, Voyageurs.
RÉBENAC.—A village in the Val de Néez, Basses-Pyrénées, 10 miles from Pau, and 17-1/2 from Eaux Bonnes on the direct route, between the two.
Inn.—Du Perigord.
SAINT AVENTIN (2805 ft.).—A village in the Haute-Garonne, 2-3/4 miles from Luchon, on the Route Thermale. Known for the chapel of same name, to which a legend is attached.
SAINT BÉAT.—A village in the Haute-Garonne, 3-1/4 miles from Marignac, a station on the line between Luchon and Montrejeau, from which it is 9-1/2 and 13 miles distant respectively. A favourite drive from Luchon (see Chapter XI. and Luchon in Appendix), road to ViellaviaBosost.
Inn.—Commerce.
SAINT BERTRAND DE COMMINGES.—An ancient Roman town in theHaute-Garonne, 3 miles from Loures station on the Luchon-Montrejeauline, For information respecting the old cathedral, &c., refer toChapter XI.
Inn.—De Comminges.
The Grotto de Gargas is in the vicinity. Guides must be hired at St.Bertrand.
SAINT CHRISTAU.—A village in the Basses-Pyrénées, 5 miles fromOloron, from which it is a lovely drive.
Two Bathing Establishments, fed by four sources, one of which is calcareous, and the rest of a sulphurous nature. They are useful for curing wounds, rheumatism, skin diseases, eczema, laryngitis, and affections of the eyes.
Hotels.—Poste, Grand Turc, Mogul; also Chalets, and rooms from 2 to 5 francs per diem.
There are many pleasant walks in the neighbourhood, and excellent fishing.
SAINTE MARIE (près Bigorre).—A village in the Campan valley,Hautes-Pyrénées, at the fork of the Route Thermale from Bigorre (seeChapter II.). It is distant 7-1/2 miles from Bigorre, 17-1/2 fromBarèges by the Col de Tourmalet route, and 36 from Luchon by the Cold'Aspin.
SAINTE MARIE (près Oloron).—A suburb of Oloron, on the opposite bank of the river Aspe. See Oloron in Appendix.
SAINTE MARIE (près St. Laurent).—A small village on a hill in the Eastern Pyrenees, 2-1/2 miles from St. Laurent de la Salanque, and 7-1/2 from Perpignan.
SAINTE MARIE (près Saléchan).—A small bathing resort, situated in a lovely valley in the Hautes-Pyrénées about 1 mile from Saléchan station on the Luchon-Montrejeau line.
The Bathing Establishment is supplied by four cold springs, containing sulphate of lime principally, but also small quantities of magnesia and soda. The water is heated for bathing purposes, but drunk in its natural state. It is tonic in its action, but diuretic and purgative as well, and is used efficaciously in liver complaints, dyspepsia, neuralgia, and nervous irritability. Hotel accommodation in the Bathing Establishment and Apartments in the houses near it.
SAINT JEAN DE LUZ.—A watering-place on the Bay of Biscay, in the Basses-Pyrénées, 8 miles from Biarritz, which it is very anxious to outrival. It is well protected from the winds, but is less free from dampness in its climate on the same account. It possesses an old church and several historical buildings, and is one of the favourite drives from Biarritz. Refer to Chapter XIII.
Hotels.—De la Poste, De France, D'Angleterre et de la Plage, De l'Océan, De Madrid.
Apartments and Houses furnished in the town.
Sea-Bathing Establishment, Casino, &c.
SAINT LAURENT DE LA SALANQUE.—A town in the Eastern Pyrenees, with a good agricultural and commercial industry, 8-3/4 miles from Perpignan.
Hotels.—Got, Garriques.
SAINT MAMET.—A village in the Haute-Garonne, 3/4 mile fromLuchon (see Chapter X.). The church is interesting.
SAINT PÉ.—A village built on an eminence in the Hautes-Pyrénées, and station on the railway between Pau and Lourdes, 18 miles from the one and 6-1/4 from the other.
SAINT PÉE-sur-Nivelles.—A village in the Basses-Pyrénées, on the route between St. Jean de Luz and Cambo—8-3/4 miles from the former, and 10 miles from the latter.
SAINT SAUVEUR (2525 ft.).—A bathing and mountain resort in the Hautes-Pyrénées, 7 miles from Pierrefitte—the nearest station—1-1/4 from Luz, and 5 from Barèges. A most charming place for a spring or summer residence, being beautifully situated and possessing numerous pleasant walks in the vicinity. See Chapter VII.
Two Bathing Establishments, each supplied by one spring, in which sulphuret of sodium predominates. The water is largely diuretic in its action, having at the same time a tonic and anti-spasmodic effect. Its sedative properties are beneficial to the nervous system generally, and it proves useful in removing the after-effects of long illnesses, hæmorrhages, &c., besides being pleasant to the skin.
Hotels.—De France, || Des Bains, || Du Parc, Des Princes, DeParis.
Guides (living at Luz).—Martin, Noguez, Fortanet, and Bernard senior. For lofty summits, such as the Pic d'Ardiden, and for other excursions, Lons, Pratdessus, and Cramp Brothers.
Horses may generally be obtained from them, and Carriages (at Luz) as well.
Post and Telegraph during the season only, but letters and telegrams are forwarded from Luz at other times, there being one delivery and one collection of the former daily.
Chief Excursions:—
To Bareges.—10 to 15 frs. landau; 2 frs. pourboire. See ChapterVI.
To Sazos and Grust.—See Chapter VII.
To Gavarnie.—Landau and four horses, 15 to 25 frs.; pourboire, 3 frs. Horses and guide to the Cirque, each 2 frs. from Gavarnie. See Chapter VIII.
The Pic de Bergons.—4 frs. each horse, guide 5 frs. out of season, 6 frs. each in season. Refer to Chapter VII.
The Pic de Viscos.—7 hours up and down. Guide 10 frs., horse 8 frs. Via Grust; a pleasant excursion.
Pic de Néré.—8 hours there and back. Horse 10 frs., guide 12 frs. Horse-track three-quarters of the way; an easy and pleasant climb.
Pic d'Ardiden.—8-1/2 hours up and down. Guide necessary. A fine but difficult climb.
SAINT SAVIN.—A very ancient village in the Argelès valley, in the Hautes-Pyrénées; fully described in Chapter IV.
SAINT SÉBASTIEN.—A town in the north of Spain, on the shores of the Biscay, 163-1/2 miles from Bordeaux, 35 from Biarritz, and 19 from Hendaye (the French frontier town). Possessing a fine citadel, bull-ring, beach, and bathing establishment, and two fine churches. See Chapter XIII.
Hotels.—De Londres, || De Escurra, Anglais, De Arrese, DeBerdejo, &c.
SALÉCHAN.—A village in the Garonne valley, in the Hautes-Pyrénées, and station on the Montrejeau-Luchon line for Ste. Marie (baths) and Siradan (baths).
SALIES.—A town on the river of same name, in the Basses-Pyrénées, 10 miles from Orthez, the nearest station.
It is celebrated for its salt springs; and Bayonne hams are said to owe their fine (?) flavour to the use of the salt produced from them.
Hotels.—Du Cheval Blanc, De France, De Paris.
SAZOS.—A small village near St. Sauveur, in the Hautes-Pyrénées, below the hamlet of Grust. For description of church, &c., refer to Chapter VII.
SIRADAN.—A small bathing resort in the valley of same name, in the Hautes-Pyrénées, with a bathing establishment and hotel in one building, 2 miles from Saléchan station on the Luchon-Montrejeau line. The springs contain sulphuret of lime and bicarbonate of iron. They have a similar effect to those of Ste. Marie (1 mile distant), but tend to excite more strongly. The water stands bottling well.
SOULOM.—A small village at the foot of the peak of same name, in the Hautes-Pyrénées, near Pierrefitte, possessing a curious old church. See Chapter IV.
TARBES.—A large town on the Adour, in the Hautes-Pyrénées.Station on the railway between Pau and Toulouse, and junction for theBigorre and Morcenz lines. Cavalry barracks, cathedral, &c. Buffet atthe station. See Chapter III.
Hotels.—De la Paix, France, Commerce.
URRUGNE.—A village in the Basses-Pyrénées, 2-1/2 miles from St.Jean de Luz.
USTARITZ.—The name of two villages, formerly separate, in the Basses-Pyrénées, 8-3/4 miles from Bayonne, on the carriage-road thenceviaElizondo to Pampeluna (63 miles).
VALCABRÈRE.—A small village in the Haute-Garonne, 2 miles from Loures station on the Luchon-Montrejeau line, celebrated for the Church of St. Just, a venerable pile in the vicinity.
VENASQUE.—A small and prosperous town in Spain, 9 hours from Luchon (21 miles) by thePortof the same name. There are some baths similar in their uses to those of Luchon, fed by sulphurous springs at some distance from the town, and 2-1/2 hours nearer Luchon.
Excellent accommodation can be obtained at the Casa san Mimi(Antonio Saora) for travellers.
VERNET-LES-BAINS (2050 ft.), a bathing resort situated in a hollow in the Eastern Pyrenees, 7 miles from the nearest railway station.
There are several springs which supply the large Bathing Establishment and the smaller Thermes Mercader. The water is largely charged with sulphate of lime, and possesses properties similar to other waters of that type. It is especially useful in affections of the air-passages and skin complaints, and is more or less exciting according to the springs. The climate is mild, and therefore Vernet has some reputation as a winter resort, being very little colder than Amélie (to which refer in Appendix).
Hotels.—Des Commandants (in the bathing establishment), DuParc, Ibrahim Pacha et des Bains, Du Canigou, &c.
Villas furnished to be let.
Carriages and Horses.
Post and Telegraph Office, Theatre, Clubs, &c.
Guide.—Michael Nou.
Chief Excursions:—
The Canigou (9144 ft.)—11 hours up and down. Guide recommended, also provisions. Horses 10 frs., guide 10 frs. Horses can go within a mile of the top, from which the view is splendid. The ascent is long but not difficult.
The Fountain des Esquereyres.—ViaCastell, 1/2 hour; a pleasant walk.
Tour de Goa.—4 hours up and down. An interesting battlemented tower, with a fine view.
Vallée de Sahorre.—3 hours there and back; an enjoyable trip.
Cascade de Cadi.—6 hours there and back; guide recommended.
The Abbey of Canigou.—2-1/2 hours there and back; guide unnecessary. An interesting ruin.
Vieuzac.—A suburb of Argelès, in the Hautes-Pyrénées, possessing a donjon tower. The station on the line from Lourdes is called Argelès-Vieuzac.
Villelongue.—A small village in the Argelès valley, in theHautes-Pyrénées, near Pierrefitte. See Chapter IV.