H.—Hazel colour,128.
Heather,40,85,121,135.
I.—Iceland moss,51,61.
Indigo,63-75,135-139.
Indigo Extract,64-70; for green,135-139.
Iron,29-30.
K.—Kermes,87-91.
Kilo. Kilogramme.Equals 2 lbs. 3·2 oz.
Korkalett,50.
L.—Lac,97,98.
Larch,43,131,137.
Lavender,84.
Lesser Dye,77,79.
Ley, seelye.
Lichen,45-62,140.
Lilac,95,96,97.
Lima Wood,106,107.
Linen,21; to bleach,22; the mordanting of,26; various kinds of,21.
Litre,80. Nearly 1¾ pints.
Lixiviation.The process of separating a soluble substance from an insoluble by the percolation of water.
Lixivium.(Lye). A term often used in old dye books. Water impregnated with alkaline salts extracted by lixiviation from wood ashes.
Logwood,77,130,131,137.
LyeorLey. Any strong alkaline solution, especially one used for the purpose of washing, such as soda lye, soap lye.
M.—Madder,38,98-105,132.
Magenta,44.
Maize,132.
Mercerised Cotton.Cotton prepared by treating with a solution of caustic potash or soda or certain other chemicals. Discovered by John Mercer in 1844.
Milling.The operation of fulling cloth.
Mordants,24; general remarks on,34; primitive mordants,25.
Muriate of Tin,31.
Myrobalans,26,35,36. The fruit of several species of trees, growing in China & the East Indies, containing tannic acid, (25-40% tannin).
O.—Oak bark,128.
Oak galls,35,36.
Oil of Vitriol,64,65,67. Sulphuric acid.
Old Fustic, seeFustic.
Old Gold,109,112-114.
Olive,109,113,118,135.
Onion skins,128.
Orange,91,93,102,106,109,120,132; from lichens,48,51,58,60-2.
Orchil,45,52-55.
Organzine.Twisted raw silk from best cocoons, used for warp.
Orseille,58.
Oxalic Acid,30,31.
P.—Pastel,77. Woad.
Peach,120.
Peach wood,106-107.
Pear,41,120.
Pearl ash.Carbonate of Potash.
Peat Soot,128.
Persian Berries.The dried unripe fruit of various species of Rhamnus. Also called French berries, Grains of Avignon.
Philamort,48.
Pink,93; from lichen,57.
Plum colour, from lichen,48.
Poplar,42,135.
Potassium Carbonate.(Potashes). Carbonate of Potash has been known since ancienttimes as a constituent of the ashes of land plants, from which it is obtained by extraction with water. In most cases Sodium Carbonate, which it strongly resembles, can be used in its place.
Potassium dichromate,32.
Privet,39,41,42,121.
Purple, from lichens,53,57-60,62; with cochineal,95,96; with logwood,82,85,86,87.
Purple Dye Plants,43.
Q.—Quercitron,116-120; for green,135-137.
R.—Red,87-107; from lichens,48-51,53,56,58,60.
Red Dye Plants,38.
Red Spirits.Tin spirits. Applied to tin mordants generally. A solution of Stannous chloride.
Red woods.Camwood, Barwood, Sanderswood (Santal, Sandal, Red Sanders), Brazil wood, Sapan wood, Peach wood.
Retting,21.
Roucou.Anatta, Arnotto.
S.—Sandalwoodor Saunderswood,106.
Sadden, to,saddening,14,30,34,127,130,132. To darken or dull in colour.
Sapan wood,106.
Savory,107,108.
Sawwort,41,135.
Saxon blue,67,70,136. The dye made by Indigo dissolved in oil of vitriol
Saxon green,118,136,138.
Scarlet,88,91,92,93,94,95,97,98.
Scarlet of Grain,87.
Scotch ell.37·2 inches.
Scour, to.To wash.
Scroop.The rustling property of silk.
Scrottyie,49,50,59.
Silk,16-18; to alum,18; general method of dyeing,17; to mordant,26; the preparation of,17; to soften,18; various kinds of,16; raw,16,17; waste,16.
Silver drab,84.
Sloe,39.
Soda ash.Carbonate of soda.
Soda ley,101.
Sour water,28. —To every gallon of water, add 1 gill vitriol; stir thoroughly. Stuff steeped in this should be covered with the liquor, otherwise it will rot.
(2). Water in which bran has been made to grow sour. 24 bushels of bran are put in a tub, about 10 hogsheads of nearly boiling water is poured into it; acid fermentation soon begins, and in 24 hours it is ready to use.
(3). Throw some handfuls of bran into hot water and let it stand for 24 hours, or till the water becomes sour, when it is fit for use.
Stannous Chloride,31.
Staple,11,12. A term applied to cotton and wool, indicating length of fibre.
Stuffing and Saddening,14,30.
Substantive Dye,24,52,65,116. A dye not requiring a mordant.
Sulphuric Acid,64,66,67,70,120,131.
Sumach,26,35,36,126. Leaves and twigs of several species of Rhus, containing Tannic acid. It is sold in the form of crushed leaves or as a powder, (15-20% tannin).
T.—Tannic Acid,26,35.
Tannin,35,36.
Tin,31,32.
Tin crystals,31.
Tin salts,31.
Tram.Slightly twisted raw silk, used for weft.
Turkey Red,99.
Turmeric,116.
Turquoise,69.
Tyrian purple.A purple colour obtained from certain shell fish, such as Buccinum & Purpura. It is mentioned by Pliny as being discovered in 1400 B.C. It was a lost art in the middle ages.
V.—Valonia,35. Acorn cups of certain species of oak from S. Europe, containing 25-35% of tannic acid.
Vegetable alkali.Potash.
Verdigris,33. Acetate of copper.
Violet,86,94,103.
Vitrum,76.
W.—Walnut,43,127,132.
Waterfor dyeing,23.
Weld,107-112,120,130,134,135.
Wet out, to. To damp, before putting the yarn or cloth into the dye.
Woad,39,75-77.
Wool,11; to bleach,16; to cleanse,15,16; long staple wool,12; various kinds of,11,12,13.
Wool Dyeing, general methods,13-16.
Y.—Yarn, to soften,16.
Yellow,107-122; from lichens,51,57,140; from sumach,126.
Yellow Dye Plants,39.
Yellow Weed,134.
Yellow Wood,107.
page 59. Rock Urcolaria shld. be Rock Urceolaria.
page 61. Flowering lusnea shld. be Flowering Usnea.
page 144. (printed without being corrected).
Add:—Alder bark, 43, 44, 100, 126.
Almond, 120.
Amber, 132.
Argol, 131.
Ash, 41, 120.
Barwood, 67, 106.
Correct:—
authracene toanthracene
anietoañil
Roucon toRoucou
sorrounding tosurrounding
Printed by Douglas Pepler at Ditchling
A WOOD CUT ILLUSTRATION FROM THE DEVIL'S DEVICES (see advert.)
A WOOD CUT ILLUSTRATION FROM THE DEVIL'S DEVICES (see advert.)
BOOKSPublished by DOUGLAS PEPLERAT THEHAMPSHIRE HOUSE WORKSHOPSHAMMERSMITH
COTTAGE ECONOMYBYWILLIAMCOBBETT with anIntroductionBY G. K. CHESTERSONPrice 2s. 6d. net (Postage 3d.)
A REPRINT of a STANDARD WORKWhich should be of use, in these days, toMany beside Cottagers.
A CAROL AND OTHER RHYMESBy EDWARD JOHNSTONPrice 1s. net (Postage 2d.)
A BOOK ON VEGETABLE DYESBy ETHEL M. MAIRETPrice 5s. net (Postage 4d.)
THE DEVIL'S DEVICES or Control versus Service by DOUGLAS PEPLER, with Wood-cut Illustrations by Eric Gill. Price 2s. 6d. net. The first 200 copies will be numbered and signed. Price 3s. 6d. net.
This book contains an account of a cinematograph entertainment in Satan's Circuit; a crafty devil; and an appreciation of No. 27, an English working-man.
THE REVIEWERS ON THE DEVIL'S DEVICES.
WHAT WILL THEY SAY NEXT?
But we believe that the effect upon most people will be what it certainly is upon one reader, who is NOT IN THE LEAST SHOCKED, but is considerably
BORED.
—C. O. Review.
A verse may find him who a sermon flies, and there is likely to be here and there one, who seeing in a bookseller's window the red cover and the black, the very black, cart thereon, will incontinently purchase.—The New Witness.
His arguments are closely logical when he chooses to make them so, though their sequence and arrangement are bewilderingly haphazard.—The Herald.
The whole effect is of a hotch-potch composed in a lunatic asylum; and the pictures seem madder than the letterpress.... Much to the irritation of my wife, for supper was waiting, I read on till I had read the book right through.... The "mad" author of this book is Douglas Pepler, the "mad" artist is Eric Gill. When I say "mad" I am, for the moment, taking it for granted that the world is sane.—Labour Leader.
.........................
(and so on very nicely for several columns.)—Land and Water.
The drama is skilfully unfolded (though the author fails over the spelling of Nietzsche, page 29) and interspersed with wood-cuts ... and a still more excellent account of the passing of the poor man's parlour.—The Cambridge Magazine.
The author has marked with the toe of his boot the moral weakness on which the Devil depends for his power over the modern world.—Red Feather.
Mr. Pepler perpetuallyDROPSinto dialogue with
FATALRESULTS.
—New Age.
FOOTNOTES[1]From a dye book of 1705.[2]"On boiling sloes, their juice becomes red, and the red dye which it imparts to linen changes, when washed with soap, into a bluish colour, which is permanent."[3]"For giving very inferior yellow upon coarser woollens, the dyer's broom,genista tinctoria, is sometimes employed, with the common preparation of alum and tartar."[4]Sawwort which grows abundantly in meadows affords a very fine pure yellow with alum mordant, which greatly resembles weld yellow. It is extremely permanent.[5]"The leaves of the sweet willow,salix pentandra, gathered at the end of August and dried in the shade, afford, if boiled with about one thirtieth potash, a fine yellow colour to wool, silk and thread, with alum basis. All the 5 species of Erica or heath growing on this island are capable of affording yellows much like those from the dyer's broom; also the bark and shoots of the Lombardy poplar,populus pyramidalis. The three leaved hellebore,helleborus trifolius, for dyeing wool yellow is used in Canada. The seeds of the purple trefoil, lucerne, and fenugreek, the flowers of the French marigold, the chamomile,antemis tinctoria, the ash,fraxinus excelsior, fumitory,fumaria officinalis, dye wool yellow." "The American golden rod,solidago canadensis, affords a very beautiful yellow to wool, silk and cotton upon an aluminous basis."—Bancroft.[6]T. Edmonston.On the Native Dyes of the Shetland Islands1841.[7]TheAnnales de Chimie. Stockholm Transactions 1792.[8]The Art of Dyeing.Berthollet.He gives minute directions for the preparation of Archil. See page 365.[9]Some British Dye Lichens.Alfred Edge.[10]From Dr. W. L. Lindsay, On Dyeing Properties of Lichens.[11]From an article by Dr. Lauder Lindsay on the "Dyeing Properties of Lichens," in theEdinburgh Philosophical Journal.July to October 1855.[12]Early dyers were particular as to the naming of their colours. Here is a list of blues, published in 1669.—"White blue, pearl blue, pale blue, faint blue, delicate blue, sky blue, queen's blue, turkey blue, king's blue, garter blue, Persian blue, aldego blue, and infernal blue."[13]I give here recipes for the simpler vats which can be used on a small scale. The more complicated recipes can only be done in a well-fitted dye house. I would refer the reader to those in "The Art of Dyeing" by Hellot, Macquer and D'Apligny, and "Elements of the Art of Dyeing" by Berthollet.[14]Woad, pastel and Indigo are used in some dye books to mean the same dye, and they evidently have very much the same preparation in making.[15]See page 36.[16]This recipe can also be used for linen, but linen takes the colour less easily than cotton, and should have the various operations repeated as much as possible.[17]—For other recipes for Black, seeChapter VIon Logwood.[18]Notepage 42on British plants which dye green.
[1]From a dye book of 1705.
[2]"On boiling sloes, their juice becomes red, and the red dye which it imparts to linen changes, when washed with soap, into a bluish colour, which is permanent."
[3]"For giving very inferior yellow upon coarser woollens, the dyer's broom,genista tinctoria, is sometimes employed, with the common preparation of alum and tartar."
[4]Sawwort which grows abundantly in meadows affords a very fine pure yellow with alum mordant, which greatly resembles weld yellow. It is extremely permanent.
[5]"The leaves of the sweet willow,salix pentandra, gathered at the end of August and dried in the shade, afford, if boiled with about one thirtieth potash, a fine yellow colour to wool, silk and thread, with alum basis. All the 5 species of Erica or heath growing on this island are capable of affording yellows much like those from the dyer's broom; also the bark and shoots of the Lombardy poplar,populus pyramidalis. The three leaved hellebore,helleborus trifolius, for dyeing wool yellow is used in Canada. The seeds of the purple trefoil, lucerne, and fenugreek, the flowers of the French marigold, the chamomile,antemis tinctoria, the ash,fraxinus excelsior, fumitory,fumaria officinalis, dye wool yellow." "The American golden rod,solidago canadensis, affords a very beautiful yellow to wool, silk and cotton upon an aluminous basis."—Bancroft.
[6]T. Edmonston.On the Native Dyes of the Shetland Islands1841.
[7]TheAnnales de Chimie. Stockholm Transactions 1792.
[8]The Art of Dyeing.Berthollet.He gives minute directions for the preparation of Archil. See page 365.
[9]Some British Dye Lichens.Alfred Edge.
[10]From Dr. W. L. Lindsay, On Dyeing Properties of Lichens.
[11]From an article by Dr. Lauder Lindsay on the "Dyeing Properties of Lichens," in theEdinburgh Philosophical Journal.July to October 1855.
[12]Early dyers were particular as to the naming of their colours. Here is a list of blues, published in 1669.—"White blue, pearl blue, pale blue, faint blue, delicate blue, sky blue, queen's blue, turkey blue, king's blue, garter blue, Persian blue, aldego blue, and infernal blue."
[13]I give here recipes for the simpler vats which can be used on a small scale. The more complicated recipes can only be done in a well-fitted dye house. I would refer the reader to those in "The Art of Dyeing" by Hellot, Macquer and D'Apligny, and "Elements of the Art of Dyeing" by Berthollet.
[14]Woad, pastel and Indigo are used in some dye books to mean the same dye, and they evidently have very much the same preparation in making.
[15]See page 36.
[16]This recipe can also be used for linen, but linen takes the colour less easily than cotton, and should have the various operations repeated as much as possible.
[17]—For other recipes for Black, seeChapter VIon Logwood.
[18]Notepage 42on British plants which dye green.