In Tecames Road.
August 26.The Padre aboard, who was zealous to conclude this Treaty with theIndiansto our Content, went this Morning a-shore, and return’d a-board in the Evening; while he was a-shore, he writ a Letter to the Priest of the place in our Favour, earnestly recommending a Trade, and expressing the many Civilities we shewed to him and the otherSpanishPrisoners, beyond their Expectation, adding that we were sensible of the smallest Favours, and would not fail of making very grateful Returns. He convinc’d the Inhabitants ashore, and also inform’d the Padre, how easily we could land, and burn the Church and Houses, and lay waste all the adjacent Parts; but that we were full of Charity, and very kind to those in our Power. This wrought so well on the People, that they promis’d faithfully they would only wait till to morrow, and if the Padre did not consent, would notwithstanding trade with us. They brought with them a nakedIndian, who like a Savage view’d very narrowly every Part of our Ship; he was wonderfully taken with the Great Cabbin, where he lay on his Side, scarce satisfy’d after an Hour’s gazing wildly about him, till giving him a Dram of Brandy, and a few Toys to be rid of this Visitant, I obligingly led the Gentleman out, and giving him old Bays for Clothing, our Yall carried him ashore, to influence the rest by our kind Usage of him. At the same time all the rest of our Boats full of Casks, with the Men well arm’d, went up the Creek between us and the Village, for fresh Water, where theyaccidentally met one of the chiefIndianspainted, and armed with Bows and Arrows: He came friendly, and advised them to go higher up the River, otherwise the Water would be brackish: They offer’d him a Dram out of a Quart Bottle of strong Brandy; he drank the major Part of it at once, and went away extreamly pleas’d, telling them we should be supply’d with what we wanted from the Village.
August 27.Last Night the Boats came from the Village Laden with Water, and brought a Letter from theTecamesPadre, assuring us he would not obstruct our Trade. The Inhabitants also told us, that Cattle, Hogs and Plantains would be ready for us, and desir’d we should bring ashore Bays and other Goods to pay for ’em, which we did, and this Morning our Boats return’d with Black Cattle and Hogs, leaving Capt.Navarre, one of our chief Prisoners, and Mr.Whiteour Linguist, to deal with theIndians. This Morning we began to heel and clean our Ships Bottoms, and sent several of our best Sailors, and two Carpenters, to assist theMarquiss. Ashore our Men keep one half at Arms, while the rest load the Boats, left theIndians, who are generally treacherous, should watch an Opportunity to fall on ’em. Our People that came off the Shore took particular notice, that the red Paint with which theIndianswere at first daub’d, was a Declaration of War, and after we had amicably treated with them, they rub’d it off, but still kept their Arms. We sent them 3 large WoodenSpanishSaints, that we had out ofMorell’s Ship, to adorn their Church, which they accounted a great Present; and I sent a feather’d Cap to the chiefIndian’sWife, which was likewise very well accepted, and I had a Present of Bows and Arrows in requital.
August 28.Yesterday in the Afternoon we made an end of heeling and cleaning our Ship; our Boats brought from the Shore at several times Water, Plantains, and other Provisions, with Hogs, and 2 Black Cattle. Our Linguist and Prisoner manage their Business beyond Expectation, selling very ordinary Bays at 1 Piece of Eight and halfperYard, and other things in proportion, so that we have Provisions very cheap.
August 29.Capt.Cookeburied oneJohn Edwards, a Youth, who died of a Complication of Scurvey and the Pox, which he got from a loathsome Negro, whom we afterwards gave to the Prisoners, that she might do no further Mischief on board.
In the Afternoon we concluded how to proceed from this Place as follows.
At a Committee held on board theDukethe29thofAugust, 1709. inTecamesRoad.
WE have consider’d our mean Stock of Provisions, and that our Time is far spent; therefore do think it for the good of the Voyage to part with several Negroes, besides those taken in the last Prize, and to make as good a Contract as we can with two or more of the substantial Prisoners, and to return their Produce to AldermanBatchellerand Company, our Owners inBristol,in the best manner we can, having no other Method to make an advantage of them; we now being design’d to cruize for theManilaShip: But if any Accident parts us, then our Place of Rendevouz is in the Latitude of CapeCorientesin sight of Land. It is likewise agreed to sell the Hull of the last Prize, to carry the small Bark with us, and to turn one of theGuiaquilPrisoners ashore here, in order to save Provisions.
Then we found it necessary to agree as follows.
August 29. 1709.
IN consideration of the great Risque that Capt.Edward Cookeand Capt.Robert Fryeran in attacking theMarquiss,when in the Hands of theSpaniards,we do in behalf of the Owners agree to give Capt.Cookethe Black BoyDublin,and Capt.Fryethe Black BoyEmanuelofMartineco,as a free Gift.
In Tecames Road.
August 30.YesterdayPeter HarryaFrenchman, andLazarus LukeaPortuguese, both good Sailors, ran from our Yall ashore. ThisPeter Harrywas he who shot a Centinel atGuiaquilas beforemention’d. We did not punish him, because he was a Foreigner, and did not well understandEnglish, but suppose he was afraid of a Prosecution inEngland.Yesterday Evening at the abovemention’d Committees aboard our Ship, after a long dispute, some Measures were agreed on contrary to my Expectations. If we had not grown irresolute since we leftGorgona, but continued our Design to put our old Ransomer ashore atManta, and part with our Clog theMarquiss, which I so earnestly press’d the9thinstant, by this time in all human probability we should have made good our Bargain to the advantage of the Voyage, besides getting Provisions and Necessaries that we shall mightily want. The Goods that we might have vended there for ready Money, I fear will rot before we get the like Opportunity, Time being now so far spent, we must proceed as we agreed for theGallapagosto get Turtle to lengthen our Provisions, and then for the Coast ofMexicoto look for theManilaShip bound forAcapulca. The 2 Negroes given to Capt.Cookeand Mr.Fryein the Committee yesterday, is not an equivalent Gratuity for the Risques they voluntarily ran when they attack’d theHavre de Grace, now call’d theMarquiss. Such Actions ought sometimes to be particularly rewarded among us, else we may lose great Opportunities of Advantage, for want of due Encouragement to personal Bravery, and in this Action where there was but a few concerned, ’twas a fit and cheap way of encouraging the rest, without Offence to any. We put our young Padre ashore, and gave him, as he desir’d, the prettiest young Female Negro we had in the Prize, with some Bays, Linnen, and other things, for his good Services in helping to promote our Trade for Provisions here. We sent also aMaleNegro and Piece of Bays to theTecamesPadre, in acknowledgment of his Kindness. The young Padre parted with us extremely pleas’d, and leering under his Hood upon his black Female Angel, we doubt he will crack a Commandment with her, and wipe off the Sin with the Church’s Indulgence. TheIndiansashore promise to bring our Men to us, if they can find ’em, we having offer’d ’em a large Gratuity to do it.
August 31.Yesterday in the Afternoon we put ashore our useless Negroes, I having concluded with Sen.Navarre, and taken the best Methods we could to be paid atJamaicafor them, he had also 4 Bales of Bays, and one Piece of Camlet, and became obliged to our Owners for 3500 Pieces of Eight, to be remitted by way ofPortobello, with theEnglishtrading Sloops toJamaica; which if he do, ’tis much better than to turn the Negroes ashore as Prisoners of War, as otherwisewe must have done to save Provisions. Capt.Courtneytook one Obligation, and I the other, he having sign’d a Duplicate to us. We had the best Opinion of this Man’s Honesty and Ability, which made us trust him solely. In the Evening we clear’d our Prisoners, and put them all aboard the Prize, which we left in the Road with only one ordinary Anchor and Hawser, and no Rigging, except what belong’d to the Fore-sail and Fore-yard, which we left them to run the Vessel at High Water into the River. We turn’d ashore here our least responsible Hostage forGuiaquil, resolving to keep but two, which must be carried home. According to the last Conclusion in a Committee of the29thinstant, we came to sail at 6 this Morning. Capt.Cookelost 2SpanishNegroes, which he supposed swam ashore from his Ship in the Night. A fresh Gale at S. S. W. At Noon CapeSt. Franciscobore S. by W. 1/2 W. distant about 6 Leagues.
Description of Tecames.
The Land to the Northward, which is the Limits of the Bay ofTecames, is a long bluff high Point, and looks white down to the Water. The next Land to the Southward ofTecamesis also white Cliffs, but not so high. I saw no Land on any part of the Shore, like those white Cliffs. Between them, which is about 3 Leagues, the Land is lower, full of Wood, and trimming inward makes a small Bay, and the Village ofTecameslies in the Bottom, consisting of 7 Houses and a Church, all low built of split Bamboes, cover’d with Palmetto Leaves, and standing on Posts, with Hog-sties under them. These Houses have notch’d Pieces of Timber instead of Stairs to get up to ’em. The Village lies close by the Water-side, and may be seen when the Bay is open above 4 Leagues. ’Tis suppos’d they had sent off their best Furniture on notice of our Approach, for there was nothing of Worth in their Houses nor Church. The Women had only a Piece of Bays tied about their Middle. The Men are dextrous at hunting and fishing. There is a large Village about 4 Leagues off, where the Padre resides, and severalIndianslive between these Villages. The next River, 3 Leagues to the Northward, is very large, and call’dRio de las Esmeraldas, but shoal’d; the Country about is thinly inhabited byIndians, Mullattoes and Samboes. By the Village ofTecamesthere’s a River into which a Boat may enter at half Tide; it flows here above 3 Fathom Water, the Flood runs to the Northward, and the Ebb to the Southward; there is an infinite Number of Plantains for 3 Days Journey into the Country, the nearest are about a League from the Houses, and were brought to our Boats down this River intheir Canoes. Here runs a great Surf on the Shore, so that were it not in these Parts of the World, it would be but an ordinary Road. Ships generally come in from the Southward, or at least directly in with the Southermost white Land, and then bear away, because (as we were inform’d) there is an ugly Shole runs off the Northernmost white Land, about 2 Leagues into the Sea, being the Place where we had but 8 Fathom Water on the23dinstant, as I noted before. We now came in from abreast off CapeSt. Francisco, Lat. 1°. 00´´. N. and this lies in about E.N.E. near 6 Leagues from CapeSt. Francisco. We came no nearer than half a League of the Shore, because there is a small Shole off of a Point about half way betweenTecames; and the Cape, which is an indifferent high Promontory, and as we made it, falls down like Stairs to the Water. We had good clean Ground where we rode near half a League from the Shore in 7 Fathom Water, but a League into the Bottom of the Bay, where the Houses lie, there’s not above 3 Fathom a good Musket-shot from the Shore. There is another River enters in by a single House between us andTecamesVillage, where we fetch’d our Water about 2 Leagues up this River; and it’s very narrow, and shoal’d all from the Entrance; we went in on half Flood. Here’s Sea and Land Breezes, as well as on all this Coast near the Main Land; the Sea Breeze at W. and W.S.W. the Land Breeze at S. and S. by E. The Sea Breeze comes generally in the Afternoon, and holds till Midnight, when comes the Land Breeze, which dies away calm towards the Middle of the Day. There’s a Rock under Water at quarter Flood, and a Shoal above a Cable’s Length off Shore, from the first Point as you go in for the narrow River where we water’d. A Ship ought not to come to an Anchor near the Shore, if High Water, in less than 6 Fathom, because at certain times, and out of course, as theIndianstold us, the Tide ebbs exceeding low. It’s dry Weather here, tho’ showry to the Northward, being the Limits of the Rains at this time of the Year. FromJunetoDecember’tis always dry, and from the Beginning ofJanuaryto the last ofMaythere are Showers now and then.
TheIndiansabout this Place are sometimes barbarous to theSpaniards, as our Prisoners tell us. Our People saw here about 50 armed with Bows and Arrows, and some good Fire-Arms; they are worse to engage than double the Number ofSpaniards, so that it would have been folly in us to land Men here, where there is so little to be got; and theIndianswithpoison’d Arrows and Fire-Arms would line the Bushes down to the Water-side, and no doubt we should have lost many of our Men, had we landed by force; so that we are all extremely obliged to Mr.Whiteour Linguist, for negotiating a Trade in so peaceable a manner with these poor mischievous Wretches, which must in Justice be ascrib’d to his good Management, he accomplishing it voluntarily with the Danger of his Life.
’Twas off this Cape that SirFrancis Drakein 1578. took the rich Plate Prize; and SirRichard Hawkinswas taken by theSpaniardsin this Bay off ofTecamesin 1594. both in Queen Elizabeth’s Time.
Sept. 1.At 6 this Morning CapeSt. Franciscobore S. E. distant 10 Leagues, from whence we take our Departure. Had fair Weather, Wind at S. W. by S. We saw many Water-snakes, one of ’em crawl’d up the Side of Capt.Cooke’sShip, but was beat off by his Men. TheSpaniardssay their Bite is incurable.
Sept. 6.This day I had Capt.Courtney, Capt.Cooke, and Capt.Dampieraboard, who dined with us. Capt.Cookecomplain’d of his Ship being crank, and that we need not have tack’d so near the Shore, since we might easily fetch theGallapagoswithout Tacking. All agree to this except our Pilot, who is very positive of seeing other Islands about 100 or 110 Leagues from the Main under the Equinox. He tells us he was at them formerly when he was a Buccaneer, and has describ’d ’em in one of the Volumes he calls his Voyages, and says that those Islands we were at lay to the Westward of them; but he must be mistaken, or we had seen them in the last Runs to and from these Islands.
Sept. 8.We are run over and beyond where our Pilot affirm’d the Islands were, and no sight of them; so we all agree that the Islands he was at when a buccaneering can be no other but those we were at, and are going to now; the nearest part of them lies 165 Leagues to the Westward of the Main Land.
Sept. 10.The8thwe made one of theGallapagosIslands, and in the Morning hoisted out our Pinnace; Capt. Dover and Mr.Glendallwent in her for the Shore. TheDutchess’s Pinnace return’d very soon laden with Turtle.
Arrival among the Gallapagos Islands.
Sept. 11.Yesterday we came to an Anchor in about 30 Fathom Water, about 2 Miles off Shore, being rocky at bottom. In letting go the Anchor the Buoy Rope was immediately cut off, and our Ship drove; so that we thought ourCable was also cut, but after driving about half a Mile the Ship rode very well. In the Evening our Boats that left us after we came to an Anchor, return’d laden with excellent good Turtle: We sent our Yawl and some Men ashore to turn those Creatures in the Night, but to no purpose, because we afterwards found they only came ashore in the Day. I sent away our Pinnace, and Lieut.Fryeto sound out a better anchoring Place, while we hove up the Anchor, and came to sail. Our Boat return’d, and by 10 a Clock we had our Ship again to an Anchor within less than a Mile off the Shore, right against a white sandy Bay. The outermost great Rock being near the Middle of the Island, bore N. by E. distant 6 Miles; the little Rock appearing like a Sail bore W. by S. about 4 Miles. Here we rode very smooth in good sandy Ground; the Wind amongst these Islands generally blows from the S. E. to the S. by W. I went ashore in the Pinnace, and carried Men to walk round the Sandy Bay to get Turtle. The Island is high like the rest, but some low Land on this side down to the Sea; it’s very rocky, dry and barren, with out Water, like those we have already seen.
Sept. 12.This Morning I sent to theDutchess, who was at an Anchor a good distance from us, to know how they were stock’d with Turtle. At 10 the Boat return’d with an Account they had about 150 Land and Sea Turtle, but not generally so large as ours: We had no Land Turtle as yet, but about 150 Sea Turtle; theMarquisshad the worst Luck.
Sept. 13.TheDutchess’s People having inform’d us where they got their Land Turtle, I sent our Pinnace, which at Night return’d with 37, and some Salt they found in a Pond; and the Yawl brought 20 Sea Turtle, so that we are very full of them. Some of the largest of the Land Turtle are about 100 Pound Weight, and those of the Sea upwards of 400: The Land Turtle lay Eggs on our Deck; our Men brought some from the Shore about the bigness of a Goose’s Egg, white, with a large thick Shell exactly round. These Creatures are the ugliest in Nature, the Shell not unlike the Top of an old Hackney Coach, as black as Jet, and so is the outside Skin, but shrivel’d and very rough; the Legs and Neck are long, and about the bigness of a Man’s Wrist, and they have Club Feet as big as one’s Fist, shaped much like those of an Elephant, with 5 thick Nails on the Fore Feet, and but 4 behind; the Head little, and Visage small, like a Snake, and look very old and black; when at first surpriz’d, they shrink their Neck, Head and Legs under their Shell. Two of our Men,with Lieut.Stratton, and the Trumpeter of theDutchess, affirm, they saw vast large ones of this sort about 4 Foot high; they mounted 2 Men on the Back of one of them, who with its usual slow Pace carried them, and never minded the Weight: They suppos’d this could not weigh less than 700 Pound. I don’t affect giving Relations of strange Creatures so frequently done by others already in print; but where an uncommon Creature falls in my way, I shall not omit it. TheSpaniardstell us they know of none elsewhere in these Seas. This Morning we began heeling our Ship, and found that abundance of Worms had entered the Sheathing; we scrub’d, clean’d, and tallow’d as low as we could.
Sept. 14.Yesterday Afternoon we sent a Boat ashore for Wood, they brought off the Rudder and Boltsprit of a small Bark; we fancy’d it might be Mr.Hattley’s that we lost amongst these Islands when here before, but on view perceiv’d it to be much older. We also found 2 Jars, and a Place where Fire had been made on the Shore, but nothing to give us farther Hopes of poor Mr.Hattley. Our Pinnace came aboard and brought about 18 Bushells of Salt, and 18 Land Turtle more; the Men commend them for excellent Food, especially the Land Turtle, which makes very good Broth, but the Flesh never boils tender: for my own part, I could eat neither sort yet. Having got as much Turtle on board, as we could eat while good, we agreed to make the best of our Way to the Coast ofMexico, and this Morning our Consort and theMarquisswere under Sail by 8 a Clock, but we lying farther in were becalm’d, and could not follow them. We caught a good quantity of Fish here, which we split and salted for our future Spending. About 12 a Clock, being calm, we weighed our Anchor, and with the Help of our Boats and Ships Oars got off the Shore.
Sept. 15.We had a fine Breeze, came up to the rest, and agreed to lye by with our Heads to the Eastward, till Midnight, being in sight of the Island and Rock where we lost poorHattley, when last here. In the Morning we stood to the Westward amongst the Islands.
Departure from the Gallapagos Islands.
Sept. 16.At 4 a Clock in the Afternoon we sent our Yawl for Capt.Cookeand Capt.Courtney, with whom we agreed to bear away, seeing so many Islands and Rocks to the Westward, we did not care to incumber our selves amongst them in the Night. By 6 we found the Remedy worse than the Disease, and at Mast head could see all low Rocks almost joining from Island to Island, that we seem’d Land-lock’d forthree Parts of the Compass, and no Way open but to the S.E. from whence we came, so we resolv’d to return that Way, and made short Trips all Night, keeping continual Sounding for fear of Shoals, and had from 40 to 60 Fathom Water. In the Morning we had got far enough to Windward to return. We could have no Observation by the Sun, being in our Zenith, tho’ we find the Weather here much colder than in any Latitude within 10 Degrees of each side the Equinox.
Sept. 17.Yesterday Afternoon I went a-board theMarquiss, being brought too between the two Islands, in sight of the rendezvous Rock I have so often mention’d: Mean while theDutchess(not being so well provided with Turtle as we) sent her Boat a-shore on another Island, where they got her Lading of excellent Turtle, leaving a vast Number a-shore that they could not bring away. We have as many a-board as we have Room for, being, as we suppose, enough to last us to theTres Marias, if they live. At 7 we all join’d, and agreed to lie by, till 2 in the Morning, when we again jogg’d on with an easy Sail till Day-break. We were a-breast of the Thorowfare, where we tried for Water the last time. I order’d a Gun to be fir’d at a venture, to see if it were possible Mr.Hattleycould be there alive, and then seeing or hearing us, might make a Smoak a-shore, as a Signal, but we had no such good Luck; so that our Hopes of him are all vanish’d, and we finally conclude, that we can do no more for him than we have done already.
The 18th and 19th we saw several more Islands, one of ’em a large one, which we suppos’d reach’d near the Equinoctial, and abundance of small Islands betwixt us; the 19th at Noon, we had an indifferent good Observation. Lat. 2°. 2´´. N.
TheGallapagosIslands need no further Description than I have at several Places given of them; only that I believe, as others before have observed, that the Turtle come a-shore in the sandy Bays of these Islands, all the Year round.
We saw in all (some that we searched and others that we viewed at a Distance, at both times) no less than 50, but none that had the least Appearance of fresh Water. TheSpanishReports agree that there is but one that has any; which lies about Lat. 1°. 30´´. S. Sen.Morelltells me, that aSpanishMan of War employed to cruize for Pyrates, was once at an Island that lies by it self in the Lat. 1°. 20 or 30´´. S. They call itS. Maria de l’Aquada, a pleasant Island and good Road,full of Wood, and Plenty of Water and Turtle, of both sorts, with Fish,&c.lying about 140SpanishLeagues West from the IslandPlata, but I believe it’s at least 30 Leagues more, and that it’s no other but the same Island, where Capt.DavistheEnglishBuccaneer recruited, and all the Light he has left to find it again is, that it lies to the Westward of those Islands he was at with the other Buccaneers, which as I have before examin’d, can be no other than these Islands we have been twice at. We had no occasion to look for this Island the second Trip, tho’ I believe it’s easy to find it without farther Directions. Here’s most sorts of Sea Birds amongst these Islands and some Land Birds, particularly Hawks of several sorts, and Turtle Doves, both so very tame that we often hit them down with Sticks. I saw no sort of Beasts; but there are Guanas in abundance, and Land Turtle almost on every Island: ’Tis strange how the latter got here, because they can’t come of themselves, and none of that sort are to be found on the Main. Seals haunt some of these Islands, but not so numerous, nor their Fur so good as atJuan Fernando’s. A very large one made at me 3 several times, and had I not happen’d to have a Pike-staff pointed with Iron in my Hand, I might have been kill’d by him; (one of our Men having narrowly escap’d the Day before.) I was on the level Sand when he came open-mouth’d at me out of the Water, as quick and fierce as the most angry Dog let loose. I struck the Point into his Breast, and wounded him all the three times he made at me, which forc’d him at last to retire with an ugly Noise, snarling and shewing his long Teeth at me out of the Water: This amphibious Beast was as big as a large Bear.
Sept. 22.TheMarquisshad sprung a large Leak, for want of good Caulking at first inGorgona: I went aboard with our Carpenter, who assisted theirs, and with a Piece of Lead nail’d over the Leak (being in the Water’s Edge) soon stopt it, and we made Sail again in a little time. Wind at S. by E. We had a good Observation. N. Lat. 6°. 9´´. Every Day as we leave the Equinoctial more distant the Heat encreases very much.
Arrival at the Island Tres Marias.
October 1.Yesterday we made the main Land ofMexico; it bore N. E. distant about 10 Leagues. We hoisted out our Yawl, and fetch’d aboard Capt.Cooke, and his Lieutenant Mr.Pope, Capt.Courtneyand Capt.Dampier; the latter says he knows this high Land; but the Latt. directs us all to know it. Capt.Dampier, near this Place, five Years past, met theManilaShip in the St.George, and had a Fight at a Distance, but he says for want of Men could not board her, and after a short Dispute, was forced to let her alone. We hall’d off the Shore, W. N. W. not caring to be near enough to be seen from the Land, to allarm the Coast too soon. We had often Showers of Rain, Wind at S.S.E.
Octob. 2.Most part of this 24 Hours we had Squalls and then little Wind at S.S.E. intermixt with sultry hot Weather. Our Men begin to be unhealthy again, two having lately dropt down on the Deck, but after bleeding came pretty well to themselves. We agreed with our Consort to lie by from 8 at Night till day break. At Noon it clear’d up, and we saw the Land, at least 8 Leagues off, tho’ we seem’d just under it, it was so very high. We made CapeCorientesbearing N.E. about 8 Leagues, by which we judge according to our Observation at Noon, that it lies in Lat. 20°. 10´´. N. We know it to be CapeCorientes, because we could see no Land to the Northward of it, and that it was a Head-land. Capt.Dampierhas been here also, but it’s a long Time ago. We all agreed it was the Cape, and that we had best hall off N. W. to look for the IslandsTres Marias, which are not far from this Cape, but we are not certain of their Situation.
Octob. 4.Yesterday Afternoon, at 4, the Cape bore E. N. E. about 10 Leagues. We kept on under an easy Sail all Night. In the Morning we saw 2 Islands, being very clear Weather, at least 14 Leagues distant, one bearing N. by W. and the other N. by E. At Noon we had a good Observation. Lat. 20°. 45´´. N.
Tho’ our Men have their Fill of Land and Sea Turtle, which keeps them from the Scurvy, yet I find them weak, it being but a faintly Food, except they had sufficient Bread or Flower with it, they having but a Pound and a Quarter of Bread or Flower, for five Men a Day, to prolong our Stock of Bread against we come to live wholly on our salt Provisions, and then must be forced to allow more.
Octob. 6.In the Morning we sent LieutenantFryein the Pinnace ashore on the Eastermost Island, to try whether there was any good Road or convenience for us to recruit there. At 9 they return’d, and told me the Island had foul Ground near half a Mile from the Shore; bad Anchoring, worse Landing, and no fresh Water; but Wood enough. A melancholy Story, our Water growing short. We hall’d on a Wind, for the middle Island, which Capt.Dampier, I do believe, can remember he was at, when he belong’d toCaptainSwann,[137]and found Water. Being little Wind we sent our Boat towards the Island, to view it before we could get thither with the Ship.
Octob. 7.TheDutchess’s People, and our Pinnace had been ashore at several Places on the S. E. side of the Island, and found bitter Water at every Place. Our Ship got soon to an Anchor near theDutchess, in 11 Fathom Water and sandy Ground, about a Mile and a half off Shore.
Octob. 8.Those that had been on the Island saw no Sign of Peoples being lately there, but found a human Skull above Ground, which we suppose to have been one of the twoIndiansCapt.Dampiertells us were left here by Capt.Swann, about 23 Years ago; for Victuals being scarce with theseBuccaneers, they would not carry the poorIndiansany farther, but, after they had served their Turns, left them to make a miserable End on a desolate Island. We kept a Light out all Night, and a great Fire in the Island, that if theMarquissand Bark, who had left Company, saw it, and had a Gale, they might come into Anchor Ground. But having no sight of them at Day-break, I went on board our Consort, and propos’d my going out to look after ’em; but they made Light of it and thought it needless, believing they would be in after us, without any Assistance. The Recruit of Cattle, Hogs, and Plantains, atTecames, held to theGallapagos, and we have fed on the Turtle we got there ever since, excepting these two last Days. This accidental Stock of fresh Food has been some Refreshment to our Men, and prolongs our Stock ofEuropeanProvisions. Now Bread or Flower will be the first thing wanting. We had little Wind Northerly, and often calm.
Octob. 9.Yesterday I sent Lieut.Glendallto view the other side of the Island, and he brought me back word it was much better than this, with sandy Bays, and signs of Turtle in the Sand, which he believed came ashore the last Night. I sent back the Boat and Men to try to get Turtle; and this Morning they came back with their Boats Load of very good ones, and left another lading behind them ready turn’d; they also had found indifferent good Water on the N. E. side of the Island, which rejoiced us to be so unexpectedly supplied; for the other Water on this side the Island,At Anchor at St. Marias Islands.had purg’d those that drank it aboard theDutchesslike Physick. We had no sight yet of the Bark orMarquiss. ’Tis very hot, with an Air of Wind Northerly, but almost calm. Our Consort has sent their Pinnace in quest of the missing Ships.
Octob. 10.Lieut.Connelyof theDutchess, that went in quest of ’em return’d without any News. And we having begun trimming our Ship, and stripping the Rigging; theDutchessdesired to go and look for them, mean while we were to employ our People to cut Wood and get a Stock of Turtle against their Return. We found an excellent Run of Water on the other side of the Island, and sent our Pinnace to view the Westermost Island, to see if either of the missing Ships had got into Anchor here.
Capt.Doverbeing willing to remove aboard theDutchess, I desired our Officers to make the followingMemorandum.
Tres S. Maria Islands.
WE the under-written, appointed part of a Committee now present on board theDuke,do certify, that Capt.Doverrequested to go on board theDutchess;and desired us to take notice it was his own Choice so to do. Witness our Hands, this 10th Day ofOctober, 1709.
At the same time the following Agreement was made where to meet with theDutchess, and they took a Copy with them.
IN case we aboard theDukedon’t see theDutchessreturn in 10 Days, then to be ready to sail, and first look in the Latitude 20°.N.in sight of the Land: If not to be found there, to run off the Land farther into Sea, and then in sight again, but no nearer than within 6 Leagues of the Land, to prevent Discovery. We are to bring all full of Water and Turtle for a second Recruit, to keep a continual Look-out for them, and leave a Signal at the South End of this Island.
IN case we aboard theDukedon’t see theDutchessreturn in 10 Days, then to be ready to sail, and first look in the Latitude 20°.N.in sight of the Land: If not to be found there, to run off the Land farther into Sea, and then in sight again, but no nearer than within 6 Leagues of the Land, to prevent Discovery. We are to bring all full of Water and Turtle for a second Recruit, to keep a continual Look-out for them, and leave a Signal at the South End of this Island.
Octob. 11.According to this Agreement Capt.Doverwent himself, and sent his Servant with his Necessaries aboard theDutchess. In the Evening they came to sail, and carry’d above 100 large Turtle that we brought to them in our Boatsfor victualling, to save Salt Provisions. We hope the Current, that has hitherto run to Leeward, will quickly shift, and facilitate their Return, that we may not be obliged to follow them. I order’d 6 Yards of red and white Bays to be join’d together, to spread it as a Signal on the Island for directing them to a Letter from me in a Bottle by it, should we unexpectedly quit the Place in her Absence.
Octob. 12.Last Night our Pinnace, which had been in quest of the missing Ships, return’d from the Westermost Island, and saw no Sign of the Ships. Our People tell us, they heard aboard theDutchess, that the Bark had not 2 Days Water when they left them, which made me very uneasy lest she should go to the Main after Water, which would discover us, and might prove the Occasion of losing her also.
Yesterday we put Negroes ashore to cut Wood for the absent Ships, and last Night our Boat came off, and brought but 3 out of 10, 7 having run away into the Woods: Immediately we dispatch’d several Men round the Island with Arms, to endeavour to catch ’em when they come down out of the Woods to get Food at the Sea-side. These Negroes had an Antipathy againstMichael KendalltheJamaicaNegro, and design’d to have kill’d him, had not one of those that came aboard given him timely Notice of it. A Negro amongst the Runaways could write well, which made me get our Ransomers to write 3SpanishPapers of Encouragement to incline the Fugitives upon sight of ’em to return, promising that Negro his Freedom and every thing else he or the rest of them could reasonably desire. These Papers we nail’d up against Trees by the Brook side, where they will be sure to see them. My Reason for so doing was to prevent these Fellows from giving notice of us on the Coast, if they reach’d the Main on Bark Logs, which they could make with the Hatchets they had to cut Wood for us. If this Method fails of Success, ’tis in vain to hope for finding them by searching the Island, every part of it being full of thick Woods and Prickles, which make it unpassable. On the sandy Shore we began to imploy our Rope-makers to spin Twine for theDutchessandMarquiss, who complain their Stock is short. Our people found another Spring of excellent Water on the other side of the Island.
At Anchor at St. Marias Islands.
Octob. 13.Yesterday Afternoon theDutchesscame in sight, with the Bark in Tow, and soon after we saw theMarquiss. We kept a Light out, that they might the better find us. In the Morning we saw them at Anchor between the 2 Islands. I weigh’d in their sight, and put out our Ensign for’em to follow us to the Watering Place on the other side of the Island, which they did accordingly. The Wind continues Northerly, with a Lee Current.
Octob. 14.Yesterday in the Afternoon we came to an Anchor in 16 Fathom Water off the N. E. Side of the Island. I went immediately in our Pinnace aboard theDutchess, that was then under Sail with the Bark in Tow, 2 Leagues from us. About 4 they and theMarquisscame to an Anchor; I told them of our Negroes deserting us, which had prevented our getting a good Stock of Wood in their Absence, and we agreed to keep all our Negroes on board the Ships, and narrowly watch ’em to prevent their Desertion for the future.
Mr.Duck, who was Master of the Bark, told me the Day they lost sight of us their Water was expended, and two of the Bark’s Crew in a very small Canoe left her almost out of sight of Land, and being smooth calm Weather, fortunately got aboard theMarquissto acquaint Capt.Cookethey had no Water, upon which he bore down to them, and took her in Towe. Had he not done this, the Bark must have run for the Main Land to get Water, which might have alarm’d the Enemy, and endanger’d the Loss of the Vessel and Men. They were not above 8 Leagues off the Island, but it being hazey Weather, and having little Wind, and a Lee Current, they could not get in, or see us.
Octob. 15.We could not get to the Watering Place near the N. W. Corner of the Island, till 7 last Night, when we anchor’d in 7 Fathom Water, clean sandy Ground, about half a Mile from the Shore; the Westermost Point bore W. by N. about 3 Miles, and the Eastermost E. by S. 6 Miles. The Body of the Westermost Island bore N. W. distant 4 Leagues. This Morning we got our empty Casks ashore, and began filling Water. Had we not very fair Weather at this Season, and little Wind, this Place would be but an ordinary Road.
Octob. 16.Capt.Courtneysent me word, that theMarquiss, who has been again missing, was well moored at the S. E. Side of the Island, and could not easily turn it hither; so we agreed she should lie there, and we would water her from hence with our Boats.
Octob. 18.LieutenantFrywent in the Pinnace last Night to view the Weather Island, and he returned this Morning, and told me there was a Road, but not very good and that he could find no Water.
Octob. 19.We hal’d the Sain [Sein], and caught some Fish.This Morning we found some Bail Goods damaged, which we believe they received before we had ’em; we unpack’d and dry’d ’em, and sold what was most damaged amongst the Ships Company, repacking and stowing away the rest. Very hot Weather, and a little Air of Wind North.
Octob. 23.We began this Morning to take aboard our Turtle, and the Remainder of our Wood and Water, designing in the Evening to return, and anchor on the S. E. Side of the Island, to join theMarquiss, and agree on a Station to cruize for theManilaShip. Our Men shot a Snake ashore, and brought it aboard dead; I saw it measured 15 Inches round, and near 10 Foot long; some of ’em are much larger; this was of a hazle colour, and spotted, called by theSpaniardshere a Leopard Serpent.
Octob. 24.All the Officers met aboard theDutchess, and sign’d a Duplicate of every Conclusion in all Committees since we have been in these Seas. Many of the Resolutions wrote on board this Ship were in my Custody, and others wrote aboard theDutchessin Capt.Courtney’s; but it was thought advisable that each of us should have all the Copies signed alike. While we were together, we agreed on a Station to lie for theManilaShip; but I lately proposed parting, and to meet again at CapeCorientes, or any other appointed Station, and for us in theDuketo cruize off the same Place where Capt.Dampiermet theManilaShip in theSt. George, or else theMarquissandDutchessto take that Station, and I would go to CapeSt. Lucas; since by either Method we should have 2 Chances for the Prize, and get Provisions, which we begin to want very much. This Method might prove much better than to be at one Place, where we could not be supply’d with Provisions; but the Officers of theDutchessandMarquissseeming unwilling to part Companies, and the Majority thinking CapeSt. Lucasthe properest Place to lie for theManilaShip bound forAcapulco, I drew up our Resolution, which was signed by the whole Council, who on this Occasion were altogether.
At a Committee held on board theDutchessat the IslandsTres Marias, October 24. 1709.Description of Tres Marias.WE whose Names are hereunto subscribed, being Members of a Committee appointed to manage the Affairs of theDuke, DutchessandMarquiss,having recruited our Ships at these Islands, and being in a readiness to put to Sea again; We haveexamin’d the Opinion of Capt.Dampier,appointed Pilot by the Owners of the ShipsDukeandDutchessinBristol,and have been well informed from all the Intelligences we have frequently had from Prisoners since our being in theSouth Seas,and do now finally determine to cruize off CapeSt. Lucas,the Southermost Cape ofCalifornia,in such Methods, and with such Signals to each other, as shall be agreed on in our next Committee.We resolve with the utmost Care and Diligence to wait here the coming of theManilaShip belonging to theSpaniards,and bound forAcapulco;whose Wealth on board her we hope will prompt every Man to use his utmost Conduct and Bravery to conquer. This is our Opinion the Day above.Tho. Dover,Pres.John Connely,Woodes Rogers,William Bath,Stephen Courtney,Tho. Glendall,Edw. Cooke,Geo. Milbourne,William Dampier,Robert Knowlman,Robert Frye,John Bridge,William Stratton,John Ballett,Cha. Pope,Lan. Appleby.
At a Committee held on board theDutchessat the IslandsTres Marias, October 24. 1709.
Description of Tres Marias.
WE whose Names are hereunto subscribed, being Members of a Committee appointed to manage the Affairs of theDuke, DutchessandMarquiss,having recruited our Ships at these Islands, and being in a readiness to put to Sea again; We haveexamin’d the Opinion of Capt.Dampier,appointed Pilot by the Owners of the ShipsDukeandDutchessinBristol,and have been well informed from all the Intelligences we have frequently had from Prisoners since our being in theSouth Seas,and do now finally determine to cruize off CapeSt. Lucas,the Southermost Cape ofCalifornia,in such Methods, and with such Signals to each other, as shall be agreed on in our next Committee.
We resolve with the utmost Care and Diligence to wait here the coming of theManilaShip belonging to theSpaniards,and bound forAcapulco;whose Wealth on board her we hope will prompt every Man to use his utmost Conduct and Bravery to conquer. This is our Opinion the Day above.
Being all supply’d with Wood, Water, and Turtle, we came to sail at Eleven this Forenoon, Wind at N. by W. a fine Gale; but e’er I proceed with my Journal, I will give a short Description of these Islands.
The Islands ofTres Mariaslie N. W. in a Range at equal Distances from each other, about 4 Leagues asunder: The largest Island is the Westermost, appears to be high double Land, and about 5 Leagues in Length; the middle Island about 3 Leagues the longest way, and the Eastermost scarce 2 Leagues; these are also middling high Lands, and full of Trees. Near the least Island are 2 or 3 small broken white Islands, one of the outermost of these appear’d so much like a Ship under Sail at a distance, that we gave the usual Signal for a Chase, but soon found our Mistake.
These Islands have abundance of different sorts of Parrots, Pigeons, Doves, and other Land Birds, of which we kill’d great Numbers, with excellent Hares, but much less than ours. We saw abundance of Guanas, and some Raccoons; the latter bark’d and snarl’d at us like Dogs, but were easily beat off with Sticks.
I think the Water more worthy of Remark than any thing we saw here, because we found but two good Springs, which ran down in large Streams near others, that were very bitterand disagreeable, which I suppose might proceed from Shrubs and Roots that grow in the Water, or from some Mineral.
The Turtle here is very good, but of a different Shape from any I have seen; and tho’ vulgarly there’s reckon’d but 3 sorts of Turtle, we have seen 6 or 7 different sorts at several Times, and our People have eat of them all, except the very large hooping or logger-head Turtle (as they are call’d) found inBrazilin great plenty, and some of them above 500l.Weight. We did not eat of that sort, because then our Provisions were plentiful, which made those Turtles to be slighted as coarse and ordinary Food. Those at theGallapagosIslands, both He’s and She’s, I observed came ashore in the Day-time, and not in the Night, quite different from what I have seen or heard of the rest.
All that we caught in this Island was by turning ’em in the Night, and were She’s, which came ashore to lay their Eggs, and bury them in the dry Sand: One of these had at least 800 Eggs in its Belly, 150 of which were skin’d, and ready for laying at once. I could not imagine that Turtle were 6 Weeks in hatching, as some Authors write, considering the Sun makes the Sand so very hot wherever these Eggs are found, and instead of a Shell they have nothing but a very thin Film. In order therefore to be better informed, I order’d some of our Men ashore to watch carefully for one, and suffer her to lay her Eggs without disturbance, and to take good notice of the Time and Place. Accordingly they did so, and assur’d me they found the Eggs addled in less than 12 Hours, and in about 12 more they had young ones in ’em, compleatly shap’d, and alive. Had we staid a little longer, I might have given my self and others a thorough Satisfaction in this quick Production of Nature. From hence I am inclinable to credit the Report of divers of our Sailors, who assert, that where they have found Eggs in the Sand, and look’d for ’em 3 Days after in the same place, they found nothing but Films; this shews that the young ones are hatch’d within that time. They assured me also, that they had observed oftener than once, that the young Brood run out of the Sand every day directly for the Sea in great Numbers, and quicker than the old ones.