Account of the River Oronoco.
Our Author not being distinct in describing the Provinces ofParaguayandTucuman, but sometimes confounding one with the other, I shall only add a few things more relating to those Countries in general. He mentions a People call’dGuaicureanswho live on the Banks ofParaguaynear the CityAssumption, maintain themselves by Fishing and Hunting, and eat all manner of Serpents and wild Beasts without hurt. They have Tents of Mats, which they remove at pleasure. They dawb one side of their Bodies with stinking Colours, scarify their Faces to make them look terrible, suffer no Hair to grow on their Bodies; and instead of a Beard fasten a Stone of a finger’s length to their Chin, and make their Deformity the Standard of their Valour. Their chief Delight is in Drunkenness and War; and to acquire the Title and Dignity of Soldiers, they must endure to have their Legs, Thighs, Tongues,&c.bored with an Arrow; and if they flinch in the least, are not allow’d that Quality: and therefore they inure their Children from their Youth to all sorts of Hardship, and to run Thorns and Briars into their Flesh by way of Pastime. They honour their Commanders so much, that when they spit they receive it into their hands, stand about them when they eat, and observe all their Motions. They chose to fight by night, because they knew nothing of Order, but made their Onsets like Beasts. They either kill’d or sold their Prisoners, if at Man’s Estate, and the young ones they bred in their own way. They lurk’d in Marshes and Woods by day, keeping Spies abroad; and thus they plagu’d theSpaniardsfor above a hundred years, till they were civiliz’d by some Missionaries. They would not allow their Women to paint with a Clay-colour till they had tasted human Flesh; and therefore when they kill’d Enemies, would divide them among the young Women, or give them the Corpse of theirown Dead. They planted Trees over their Graves, adorn’d them with Ostrich Feathers, and met there at certain times, howling in a most barbarous manner, and performing many lewd and hellish Ceremonies. They worship Parrots as Gods, and have a sort of Bears call’d Ant-Bears: They have long Heads, Snouts much longer than those of Swine, and Tongues like Spears, which they thrust into the Ant-Hills, and lick up those Insects, which are as big as the top of one’s finger, and being toasted over the fire, are eat by the Natives andSpaniardstoo as a Dainty.
FatherTechomentions another People nam’dCalchaquinsin this Country, whom he supposes to have been ofJewishDescent, because when theSpaniardscame first here, they found that many of them hadJewishNames, and something of their Habit and Customs. Our Author draws a Parallel in several Instances; but this, as well as his Arguments to prove that St.Thomasthe Apostle planted Christianity in this Country, will scarce obtain Credit among the Learned. I refer the Curious who would know more of those things to our Author, who brings down what he calls the History of this Country as low as 1645. which is the latest Account we have yet printed, except FatherSepp’sabovemention’d, which brings it to 1691. of which I have given the Substance already.
Before I go further, I shall give some account of the RiverAranocaorOronoco, which is the Northern Boundary of ourSouth-SeaCompany’s Limits. The Head of it, according to our Maps, is about N. Lat. 3. and in Long. 77. It runs Eastward about 840 miles, about 60 miles N. of the Equator, then runs N. about 420. and turning NE. about 120, falls into the Sea about N. Lat. 9. So that its whole Course is about 1370 miles, including Turnings and Windings; for it runs almost the whole Breadth of that part ofAmerica, since it rises within 160 miles of theSouth-Sea.
Mr.Sparrey,[114]who was left in the adjoining Country by SirWalter Raleighin 1595. gives the following Account of this River. He says it is also call’dBarequan, is a great River, and others call itPariæ. It falls into the Sea by sixteen Mouths; but according toSansonsMap, whatSparreycalls Mouths are a number of Islands which lie near the Shore at the Entrance of the River, and the chief of thoseMouths nam’dCapurilies furthest South. They say it has 9 foot water at full Sea, and but 5 at Ebb: It flows but a small time, when it rises apace, and the Ebb continues 8 hours. There are several other ways of entring this River, for which I refer toSparrey; as also for the other Rivers which fall into it on both sides. He attempted a Passage toPeruthis way, but in vain. He says that in this Search he enter’d the great RiverPapemena, which is six Leagues broad, and came to a pleasant Island call’dAthul, where the Climate is temperate, the Island is well water’d, and abounds with Fish, Fowls, and other Animals for Food. It has many Woods that abound with delicate Fruit all the Year. There’s store of Cotton, Balsam,BrazileWood,Lignum Vitæ, Cypress Trees, several Minerals and fine Stones, but for want of Skill he could not judg of the Value of ’em. This Island was not then inhabited, because of the Cannibals nam’dCaribbesin the Neighbourhood. He is of opinion, that Westward fromOronocoGold might be found; but it was dangerous to go far into the Country, because the Natives were continually in Arms. He adds, that in the Country ofCurae, part of the Province ofGuiana, which lies on the S. and E. ofOronoco, there was plenty of Gold; but it was dangerous seeking for it in the Sands of the Rivers, because of Crocodiles. He talks also of Pearl or Topazes found here, but dubiously. AtCamalahaSouth ofOronoco, he says, there was then a Fair for Women Slaves, where he bought 8 for a coarse red-hafted Knife, the eldest of whom was not above 18 years old. The Inhabitants, he says, are generally swarthy. We have few modern Accounts of this River, because it is not much frequented for Trade; and therefore I shall say no more of it, but return to my Journal.
Nothing remarkable happen’d tillDecemb. 6.when we had close cloudy Weather, with Showers; Wind at E. by N. We saw a large Bird call’dAlcatros, who spread their Wings from eight to ten foot wide, and are much like a Gannet.
Dec. 7.Rainy Weather, with Thunder and Lightning, a brisk Gale from E by N. to N E. This day I remov’d one of the Boatswain’s Mates, and putRob. Hollanbyone of our best Sailors in his place.
From Grande towards Juan Fernandez.
Dec. 10.Yesterday I exchang’dBenjamin Long, one of the Boatswain’s Mates, withTho. HughesBoatswain’s Mateon board theDutchess; he being mutinous there, they were willing to be rid of him.
Dec. 13.We had a strong Gale of Wind at S W. Yesterday in the Afternoon we reef’d our Main-Sail, which was the first time since we leftEngland.
Dec. 15.The Colour of the Water being chang’d very much, we founded, but had no Ground: so that this Change is probably occasion’d by the nature of the Ground at bottom. We find it much colder in this Lat. which is 43. 30 S. than in the like degree N. tho the Sun was in its furthest Extent to the Southward: which may be ascrib’d partly to our coming newly out of warmer Climates, which made us more sensible of the Cold; or ’tis probable the Winds blow over larger Tracts of Ice than in the same Degrees of N. Latitude.
Dec. 18.Cold hazy rainy Weather. Yesterday in the Afternoon one of theDutchess’s Men fell out of the Mizen-Top down on the Quarter-Deck, and broke his Skull: They desir’d the Advice of our Surgeon, and I went on board with our two, where they examin’d the Wound, but found the Man irrecoverable; so that he died, and was buried next day. Brisk Gales from the W N W. to the W by S.
Dec. 19.Cold airy Weather: We saw several Grampusses, and a great number of uncommon sort of Porpusses, black on their Back and Fins, and white underneath, with sharp white Noses; they often leap’d a good height out of the Water, turning their white Bellies uppermost: they were much of the shape and bigness of our Porpusses. We also saw many Seals.
Dec. 20.This day, according to what our Committee agreed atGrande, we exchang’d Mr.Vanbrughfor Mr.BathAgent of theDutchess. Easy Gales of Wind, but very veerable. This morning at four we had a very thick Fog, when we were caught in Stays,[115]and lost sight of theDutchess, tho we made all the noise agreed on between us. At nine a clock it clear’d up, being very little Wind, and we were within a League of them.
Dec. 21.Easy Gales of Wind, but very veerable. We have seen a deal of Rock-Weed for some days past, of a great length and generally round in large Branches. Lat. 48.50. S.
Dec. 22.Fair Weather with Rain, Wind very veerable. The Water is generally discolour’d. We had a good Observ. Lat. 49.32. S.
Dec. 22.At ten this morning, we saw Land, bearing S S E. dist. 9 Ls. It appear’d first in three, afterwards in several more Islands. At twelve it bore S. 1/2 W. the West End dist. 6 Ls. a long Tract of Land. We saw most of that which appear’d at first to be Islands, join with the low Lands. The Wind being Westerly, and blowing fresh, we could not weather it; but was forc’d to bear away and run along Shore from 3 to 4 Ls. dist. It lay as near as we could guess E N E. and W S W. This isFalkland’sLand, describ’d in few Draughts, and none lay it down right, tho the Latitude agrees pretty well. The middle of it lies in Latitude 51.00. S. and I make the Longitude of it to be 61. 54. West fromLondon. The two Islands extend about two Degrees in Length, as near as I could judg by what I saw.
Dec. 24.Last night we reefed both Courses; it blowing strong, lay by from eight till three in the Morning, with our Heads to Northward, Wind at W by S. because we could not tell how farFalklandIslands ran to the Eastward. Between two and three a clock yesterday in the Afternoon we ran by a high round large white remarkable Rock, which appear’d by it self near 3 Ls. without the Land; which is not unlikePortland, but not so high, and the Rock like that call’d theFastnesteto the Westward of CapeClearinIreland. At four yesterday in the Afternoon the North-East End bore S E by S. 7 Ls. the white Rock bore S. 3 Ls. At six the Eastermost Land in sight bore S.E. 7 Ls. All this Land appear’d with gentle Descents from Hill to Hill, and seem’d to be good Ground, with Woods and Harbours. At three a clock we made sail, steering S E. Lat. 52. S.
From Grande towards Juan Fernandez.
Dec. 25.Yesterday Noon we saw the Land again, and find it to trim away Southerly from the white Rock. A strong Gale of Wind at S W. At six a clock in the Evening we lost sight of the Land, but could not come near enough to see if it was inhabited; and spy’d a Sail under our Lee-Bow bearing S E. from us, dist. about 4 Ls. We immediately let our Reefs out, chas’d and got ground of her apace: we kept sight till ten at night, when we lost her. We spoke with our Consort, and were both of opinion that the Chase would, as soon as she lost sight of us, if homeward bound, bear away to the Northward; so we ran Northtill Dawning: then we stood to the Westward till it was light, and our Consort kept on with an easy Sail. When it was full light we saw nothing, being thick hazy Weather: we bore away, and were with our Consort again by five a clock. Between six and seven it clear’d up: we saw the Chase bearing about S by E. between 3 and 4 Ls. from us. It falling calm, we both got out our Oars, row’d and tow’d, with our Boats a-head, and made pretty good way; had a small Breeze at North, so we set all the Sail we could, and by twelve a clock had gain’d very much ground of the Chase. We had an Observ. Lat. 52.40.
Dec. 26.We kept on rowing and towing till about six in the Evening; and perceiving we approach’d her, I went in the Boat to speak with Capt.Courtney, and agree how to engage her, if a great Ship, as she appear’d to be; and also adjusted Signals, if either of us should find it proper to board her in the night. I return’d aboard as soon as possible, when we had a fine Breeze: we got in our Boats and Oars, and made all possible Sail after the Chase, kept in sight of her till past ten a clock, bearing S S W. of us, when it came on thick again; we kept her open on the Larboard, and theDutchesson the Starboard-Bow, and being short Nights, we thought it impossible to lose one another. At one a clock this Morning my Officers persuaded me to shorten Sail, telling me we should lose our Consort if we kept on: I was prevail’d with to do so, and in the Morning had a very thick Fog, so that I could see neither our Consort nor Chase till an hour after ’twas full Light. When it clear’d up, we saw our Consort on our Larboard-Bow; we fir’d a Gun for her to bear down, but immediately we saw the Chase ahead of her about four miles, which gave us new Life. We forthwith hal’d up for them; but the Wind soon veering a-head, had a great disadvantage in the Chase. We ran at a great rate, being smooth Water; but it coming on to blow more and more, the Chase outbore our Consort: so she gave off, and being to Windward, came down very melancholy to us, supposing the Chase to have been aFrenchhomeward-bound Ship from theSouth-Seas. Thus this Ship escap’d; which, considering that we always out-went her before, is as strange as our first seeing of her in this place, because all Ships that we have heard of bound out or home this way, kept withinFalkland’sIsland. At twelve a clock we saw a little plain low Island, which bore W N W. dist. 4 Ls. not mark’d in any of ourCharts. The Wind has been very veerable since six a clock last night, from the N N E to the S. where it now is. Lat. 53.11. S.
Dec. 27.Strong Gales, with Squalls from the South to the West. TheDutchessput her Guns into the Hold again, that she took up in the Chase. Yesterday at two in the Afternoon we put about, and stood off to the Eastward from the little low Island: because we could but just weather it, we were not willing to come too near it. Lat. 54.15. S.
Dec. 30.Fresh Gales of Wind at West, hazy Weather mix’d with small Rain. We had an Observ. Lat. 58.20.
January 1.Fresh Gales of Wind from the W N W. to the W S W. with Fogs, but indifferent smooth Water. This being New-Year’s Day, every Officer was wish’d a merry New-Year by our Musick; and I had a large Tub of Punch hot upon the Quarter-Deck, where every Man in the Ship had above a Pint to his share, and drank our Owners and Friends Healths inGreat Britain, to a happy new Year, a good Voyage, and a safe Return. We bore down to our Consort, and gave them three Huzza’s, wishing them the like.
Jan. 2.Fresh Gales from the W S W. to the N W. with Fogs. Clothes and Liquor were now an excellent Commodity amongst our Ships Company, who are but meanly stor’d: We had six Taylors at work for several weeks to make them Clothing, and pretty well supply’d their Wants by the spare Blankets and red Clothes belonging to the Owners; and what every Officer could spare, was alter’d for the Mens Use. The like was done on board theDutchess.
From Grande towards Juan Fernandez.
Jan. 5.Just past twelve Yesterday it came on to blow strong: We got down our Fore-Yard, and reef’d our Fore-Sail and Main-Sail; but there came on a violent Gale of Wind, and a great Sea. A little before six we saw theDutchesslowering her Main-Yard: the Tack flew up, and the Lift unreev’d, so that the Sail to Leeward was in the water and all a-back, their Ship took in a great deal of Water to Leeward; immediately they loos’d their Sprit-Sail, and wore her before the Wind: I wore after her, and came as near as I could to ’em, expecting when they had gotten their Main-Sail stow’d they would take another Reef in, and bring to again under a two-reef’d Main-Sail, and reef’d and ballanc’d Mizen, if the Ship would not keep to without it: but to my surprize they kept scuddingto the Southward. I dreaded running amongst Ice, because it was excessive cold; so I fir’d a Gun as a Signal for them to bring to, and brought to our selves again under the same reef’d Main-Sail. They kept on, and our Men on the look-out told me they had an Ensign in their Maintop-Mast Shrouds as a Signal of Distress, which made me doubt they had sprung their Main-Mast; so I wore again, our Ship working exceeding well in this great Sea. Just before night I was up with them again, and set our Fore-Sail twice reef’d to keep ’em Company, which I did all night. About three this morning it grew more moderate; we soon after made a Signal to speak with them, and at five they brought to: when I came within haile, I enquir’d how they all did aboard; they answer’d, they had ship’d a great deal of Water in lying by, and were forc’d to put before the Wind, and the Sea had broke in the Cabin-Windows, and over their Stern, filling their Steerage and Waste, and had like to have spoil’d several Men; but God be thank’d all was otherwise indifferent well with ’em, only they were intolerably cold, and every thing wet. At ten we made sail, Wind at W N W. and moderate. Lat. 60,58.
Jan. 6.Raw cold Weather, with some Rain. A great Sea from the N W. little Wind from the N N W. to the West. I and Capt.Dampierwent in the Yall on board theDutchess, to visit ’em after this Storm; where we found ’em in a very orderly pickle, with all their Clothes drying, the Ship and Rigging cover’d with them from the Deck to the Main-Top: They got six more Guns into the Hold, to make the Ship lively.
Jan. 7.Fresh Gales of Wind, with hazy Weather and some small Rain. Yesterday about three in the AfternoonJohn Vealea Landman died, having lain ill a Fortnight, and had a Swelling in his Legs ever since he leftGrande. At nine last night we bury’d him; this is the first that died by Sickness out of both Ships since we leftEngland. Several of theDutchess’s Men had contracted Illness by the Wet and Cold. Wind from the N N W. to the W N W.
Jan. 10.Strong Gales of Wind, with Squalls of Rain and Hail, and a great Sea from the W. We lay by with our Head to the Southward till 12 last night, then came to sail under three-reef’d Courses,[116]and sometimes the Maintop-Sail low set, Wind from the W. to the N. and thence to theN.W. We have no Night here. Lat. 61.53. Long. W. fromLond.79.58 being the furthest we run this way, and for ought we know the furthest that any one has yet been to the Southward.
Jan. 14.Moderate Gales with cloudy Weather, Wind veerable. This day theDutchessbury’d a Man that died of the Scurvy.
Jan. 15.Cloudy Weather, with Squalls of Rain, fresh Gales at S W. We had an Observ. Lat. 56. S. We now account our selves in theSouth-Sea, being got round CapeHorne. TheFrenchShips that came first to trade in these Seas came thro the Straits ofMagellan: but Experience has taught them since, that it is the best Passage to go round CapeHorne, where they have Sea-room enough; the Straits, being in many places very narrow, with strong Tides and no Anchor-ground.
Here I think it proper to give an Account of the first Discovery of theSouth-Sea, of the Passage to it by the Straits ofMagellan, of the chief of those who have pass’d those Straits, and a short Description of the Country on both sides of ’em.
An Account of the Discovery of theSouth-Sea,and of the Straits ofMagellan,&c. fromOvalleand other Authors.
An Account of the Discovery of theSouth-Sea,and of the Straits ofMagellan,&c. fromOvalleand other Authors.
Account of the Discovery of the South-Sea.
THE firstEuropeanwho discover’d theSouth-Sea, wasBascoorVasco Nuñes de BalboaaSpaniard, in 1513. He was the first who landed on the Isthmus ofDarien, and made war with their Caciques or Princes; who not being able to resist his Fire-Arms, and perceiving that the chief Design of theSpaniardswas to find Gold, one of the Caciques toldVasco, that since they were so fond of that which he and his Countrymen valu’d so little, he would conduct them over the Mountains to another Sea, upon which they might find a Country where the People had all their Utensils of Gold. This was the first notice theSpaniardshad of theSouth-Sea.Vascomarch’d on till he came near the top of the highest Mountain, where he order’d his Men to halt, because he would have the honour of first discovering that Sea himself: which having done, he fell down on his knees and thank’d God for his Success, and call’d it theSouth-Sea, in opposition to that on the other side the Continent, Having pass’d these Mountains, he march’d down till he came to the Coast, and took possession of it in the name of the King ofSpain. Whenhe return’d back, he found a newSpanishGovernour inDariencall’dPedrarias; who being his Enemy because he envy’d the King’s making him Governour and Admiral of theSouth-Sea, he falsly accus’d him of Treason and cut off his Head, and sentGaspar MoralesandFrancis Pizarroto compleat the Discovery, with a good number of Men, and large Dogs that were as terrible to theIndiansas theSpaniardsFire-Arms. Here they discover’d the Isle of Pearls, and forc’d the Natives to fish for them, and then discover’d the rest of the Coast. The first who found a Passage from theNorth-SeawasFerdinand Magaillans, who in 1519 sail’d on purpose by Commission from the EmperorCharlesV. to discover it. In Lat. 52. S. he found the Passage, which from him has been since call’d the Straits ofMagellan.PigafettaanItalian, who made the Voyage with him, says that in S. Lat. 49-1/2. at PortSt. Julian, they found Giants whose Waste a middle-siz’d Man could scarce reach with his Head: they were clad with the Skins of Beasts as monstrous as themselves, arm’d with huge Bows and Arrows, and of a Strength proportionable to their Bulk, yet good-natur’d: One of them seeing himself in a Looking-Glass on board the Ship, was so frighten’d that he run backward, and tumbled down several Men that stood behind him. The Crew gave Toys to some of them, at which being mightily pleas’d, they suffer’d them to put Shackles about their Arms and Legs, which they took for Ornaments; but when they found themselves fast, bellow’d like Bulls. One of them, he says, made his Escape from nine Men, after they had got him down and ty’d his hands. Other Voyagers say they have seen such Giants in those parts, particularly Mr.Candish,Sebald de Wertin 1599. andSpilbergin 1614. but the Reader may believe of this Story what he pleases.Pigafettasays the Straits were 110 Ls. long, in some places very wide, and in others not above half a League over.Magaillanspass’d ’em inNovemb.1520. and being overjoy’d, he call’d the Cape from whence he first saw theSouth-SeatheCape of Desire. After rambling almost four months in theSouth-Sea, where he suffer’d extreme Want, and lost many of his Men, he sail’d to theLadronesIslands, and foolishly engaging 7000 Natives inMathan, which is one of them, he was kill’d. One of his Ships forsook him as he pass’d the Straits, and return’d toSpain: of the other four, only the ShipVictoriareturn’d toSt. LucarnearSevil, under the Command ofJohn Sebastian Cabot, who was nobly rewarded by the Emperor.
In 1539Alonso de CamargoaSpaniardpass’d the same Straits, and arriv’d at the Port ofArequipainPeru; but much shatter’d, having lost one of his Ships, and another leaving him, return’d toSpain. After him several otherSpaniardspass’d the same way, and they planted a Colony and Garison at the North End, to block up the Passage to other Nations; but without success, the Garison being all starved or destroy’d by theIndians.
The 15thofNovemb.1577. the famous SirFrancis Drakeset out fromPlymouthwith five Sail, and having touch’d at several places by the way, enter’d the Straits the 21stofAugustfollowing. He found them very dangerous, because of the many Turnings, contrary Winds, and sudden Blasts from high Mountains cover’d with Snow on both sides, and their Tops reaching above the Clouds, and no anchoring but in some narrow River or Creek. The 24thhe came to an Island in the Straits, where there were so many Fowls call’dPenguins, that his Men kill’d 3000 in a day, which serv’d them for Provisions. The 6thofSeptemberhe enter’d theSouth-Sea, where he met with dreadful Storms, and one of his Ships was drove back into the Straits, thro which she return’d toEngland; as SirFrancis DrakedidJuly24. 1580. being the first Sea-Captain that ever sail’d round the World, and brought his Ship home, which was accounted a great Honour to theEnglishNation.
July1. 1586. Mr.Tho. Candish, afterwards SirThomas,[117]sail’d fromPlymouthwith three Ships, and the 6thofJanuaryafter enter’d the Straits, having met with a severe Storm near the mouth of ’em. He took the Remainders of aSpanishGarison there, who from 400 were reduc’d to 23 by Famine; and those of KingPhilip’sCity, which had been built in the Straits, were in the same miserable Condition, so that they abandon’d the Place. They found Cannibals in some part of the Straits, who had eat many of theSpaniards, and design’d the like to theEnglish, had they not been kept off by their Guns. Mr.Candishwas stop’d here a considerable while by a furious Storm and bad Weather, which reduc’d him to Want of Provisions, till the 24thofFebruarythat he got into theSouth-Sea, and bought Provisions of theIndians. Mr.Candishreturn’d toEngland, after having sail’d round the World, the 9th of Septembernext Year. He again attempted the Passage of the same Straits in 1591, but without Success;Account of the Straits of Magellan.as Mr.Fenton[118]did in 1582. asFlorisdid at the same time; the Earl ofCumberlandin 1586. Mr.Chidleyin 1589. and Mr.Woodin 1596. SirRichard Hawkinspass’d them in 1593. but was taken by theSpaniards; and Mr.Davis[119]the Discoverer to the N W. pass’d and repass’d those Straits, but was forc’d back by contrary Winds. So that our Countrymen, tho they did not all succeed in the Attempt, yet have been the most fortunate in passing them of any other Nation: for theDutchpass’d them in 1597. with five Ships, of which only one return’d. Five otherDutchShips pass’d them in 1614. when they lost one of them. In 1623. theDutch NassawFleet, so call’d because the Prince ofOrangewas the greatest Adventurer, attempted it with fifteen brave Ships, and 2 or 3000 Men; but were repuls’d, wherever they came to land, by theSpaniards, so that they could not settle there.
Other Nations attempted it likewise, and particularly DonGarcia de Loaisa, a Knight ofMaltaand aSpaniard, with seven Ships and 450 Men; and tho he pass’d the Straits, he died himself, and all his Ships were afterwards taken by thePortugueseor others.VargasBishop ofPlacentiasent 7 Ships to attempt it, one of which only succeeded, went toArequipaa Port on theSouth-Sea, and discover’d the Situation of the Coast ofPeru; but went no further.Ferdinand Cortez, the Conqueror ofNew Spain, sent two Ships and 400 Men in 1528. to discover the way to theMoluccasthro the Straits, but without success. TwoGenoeseShips were the first that attempted it in 1526, afterMagellan, but could not effect it.Sebastian Cabottry’d it also by Commission from DonEmanuelKing ofPortugal, but could not do it.Americus Vespusiuswas sent by the same Prince, but could neither find the Straits nor the River ofLa Plata.Simon AlcasaraaSpaniardattempted it likewise with several Ships and 440 Men, but came back without performing it, his Men having mutiny’d. All these Attempts by theSpaniards, &c. happen’d before SirFrancis Drakeperform’d it.
In the Reports made of those Straits upon Oath to the EmperorCharlesV. those who attempted this Passage give the following Account,viz.That from the Cape of 11000Virginsat the Entrance of the North Sea, to the Cape ofDesireat the Entrance of the South-Sea, is 100SpanishLs.that they found in this Strait three great Bays of about 7 Leagues wide from Land to Land, but the Entrances not above half a League, and encompass’d with such high Mountains, that the Sun never shines in them, so that they are intolerably cold, there being a continual Snow, and the Nights very long: That they found good Water with Cinamon-Trees, and several others, which tho they look green burnt in the Fire like dry Wood: That they found many good sorts of Fish, good Harbours with 15 fathom Water, and several pleasant Rivers and Streams: That the Tides of both Seas meet about the middle of the Straits with a prodigious Noise and Shock; but some of thePortuguese, who had pass’d the Straits, say they are only high Floods which last about a month, rise to a great height, and sometimes fall so low and ebb so fast, that they leave Ships on dry ground. The Reader may find more of this inHerrera’sHistory: but others differ in their Accounts, and particularlySpilbergaDutchman, who mentions a Port here that he call’dFamous, by way of Eminency, the adjacent Soil producing Fruit of various Colours and excellent Taste, and affording Brooks of very good Water. He mentions 24 other Ports besides those that he did not see, and particularly thePiementoor Pepper-Harbour, so call’d because of the Trees which grow there of an Aromatick Smell, whose Bark tastes like Pepper, and is more hot and quick than that of theEast-Indies. TheSpaniardshaving brought some of it toSeville, it was sold there for two Crowns a pound.
The last of our Countrymen who pass’d them was SirJohn Narborough,[120]who set out from theThames,May15. 1669. with two Ships. He had K.CharlesII’s Commission, was furnish’d out at his Majesty’s Charge, and enter’d the StraitsOctober22. following. He says, that from the Entrance of this Strait to the Narrow there’s good Anchorage, and not much Tide, but in the Narrow the Tide runs very strong. The Flood sets into the Straits, and the Ebb out, keeping its Course as on other Coasts. It rises and falls near 4 Fathom perpendicular, and it is high Water here on the Change of the Moon at eleven a clock. When he came to the Narrow, he found the Tide very strong, which endanger’d the running of his Ships upon the steep Rocks on the North side. From the first Narrow to the second is above 8 Ls. and the Reach betwixt them 7 Ls broad. He found a Bay on the NorthAccount of the Straits of Magellan.side at the Point of the second Narrow, where one may ride in 8 Fathom Water in clear sandy Ground half a mile from the Shore. In the Channel of the second Narrow he found 38 Fathom Water, and several Bays and Cliffs with little Islands. He exchang’d several Trifles with the Natives for Bows and Arrows, and their Skin-Coats. They were of a middle Stature, well limb’d, with round Faces, low Foreheads, little Noses, small black Eyes and Ears, black flaggy Hair of an indifferent Length, their Teeth white, their Faces of an Olive-Colour, daub’d with Spots of white Clay and Streaks of Soot, their Bodies painted with red Earth and Grease, their Clothing of the Skins of Seals, Guianacoes and Otters, wrapt about them like theScotchHighlanders Plads. They had Caps of the Skins of Fowls with the Feathers on, and pieces of Skins on their feet to keep them from the ground. They are very active and nimble, and when about Business go quite naked; only the Women have a piece of Skin before them, and differ from the Men in Habit only by want of Caps, and having Bracelets of Shells about their Necks. They seem to have no manner of Government nor Religion, live by Hunting and Fishing, and are arm’d with Bows and Arrows; the latter 18 Inches long, and headed with Flint Stones. These People SirJohnfound inElizabeth-Isle, which lies near the second Narrow. In PortFamineBay, S. Lat. 53. 35. he found good Wood and Water, and abundance ofPiementoTrees. Their Language is guttural and slow. SirJohnis of opinion, that the Mountains contain Gold or Copper. He computes the whole Length of the Straits at 116 Leagues. For the rest we refer to him.
I have insisted the longer on these Straits, partly because they are so much talk’d of, and partly to justify our going to theSouth-Seasby the way of CapeHorne, which is far more safe: so that in all probability the Straits ofMagellanwill be little frequented byEuropeansin time to come.
The Land on the North side of the Straits is call’dPatagonia, and that on the SouthTerra del Fuego, because of the numerous Fires and the great Smoke which the first Discoverers saw upon it. It extends the whole Length of the Straits, and lies from East to West about 130 Leagues, according toOvalle; and before the Discovery of the Straits ofSt. Vincent, otherwise call’dLe Maire’sStraits, was suppos’d to join to some part of theTerra Australis.Ovallesays, that on the Continent ofChili, near the Straits ofMagellan, there’s a People call’dCessares, who are suppos’d to bedescended from part of theSpaniardsthat were forc’d ashore in the Straits, when the Bishop ofPlacentiasent the Ships abovemention’d to discover theMoluccaIslands. ’Tis suppos’d they contracted Marriages with someIndianNation, where they have multiply’d, and taught them to build Cities and the Use of Bells.Ovallesays, that when he wrote the History ofChili, he receiv’d Letters and other Informations that there is such a Nation in those parts, and that one of the Missionaries had been in the Country with CaptainNavarro, and found the People to be of a white Complexion with red in their Cheeks; by the Shape of their Bodies they seem’d to be Men of Courage and Activity, and by the Goodness of their Complexion ’twas probable they might be mix’d with a Race ofFlemmings, who had been ship-wreck’d in those parts. But there being no farther Account of these People sinceOvalle’sAccount ofChiliin the Year 1646. we believe this Relation to be fabulous.
Account of the Straits of Magellan.
M.de Beauchesne Gouin, who is the last that attempted the Passage of the Straits ofMagellan, that we have heard of, came to an anchor at theVirginsCape in the mouth of this Strait the 24thofJune1699. and the Wind being contrary, he lay at anchor betwixt the Continent andTerra del Fuego. He weighed again, the Winds being still contrary, and on the third ofJulyanchor’d at PortFaminein the Straits, where theSpaniardshad built a Garison, but were forc’d to quit it for want of Provisions. He observes, that from the Mouth of the Straits to this place, the Climate seem’d to be as temperate as inFrance, tho now the coldest Season of the Year in those parts. He found abundance of Wood for Firing, but the greatest Inconveniency he met with there, was from the great Storms of Snow, tho it did not lie long, being carry’d off by Rains which come from the West. He is of opinion that a Settlement might easily be made here, in a part of the Country extending above 20 Leagues; and that he was inform’d the Islands ofSt. Elizabethin the Straits are proper enough for Corn and Cattel, if planted with them. He sent his Sloop ashore onTerra del Fuego, where he saw Fires, and found the savage Natives by 50 or 60 together in Companies, and some of them came aboard his Ship that lay 5 Ls. from the shore. They were very peaceable and friendly, but more miserable than our Beggars inEurope, having no Clothes but a strait Coat of wild Beasts Skins, that comes no lower than their knees, and pitiful Hutts made up of Poles cover’d with Skins of Beasts; and this is all the shelterthey have against the Extremity of the Weather. They came in such multitudes to beg from him, as soon made him weary of their Company; so that he weigh’d again the 16thofAugust, and stopt at PortGalandto leave some Letters there for those who were to follow him fromFrance, as had been agreed on. And here he observes, that both the Climate and the Navigation of the Straits are very unequal; and that from this place to the Entrance of theSouth-Seathere’s nothing but extraordinary high Mountains on each side, from whence come very impetuous and frightful Torrents, and scarce any place for Anchorage to be found, or one Day without either Rain or Snow. He adds, that he found an Island opposite to the Mouth of the Strait ofSt. Jerom, that is set down in none of our Maps. This Island, he says, has two good Harbours, which may be of great consequence to those who pass this way. He took possession of it, call’d it by the name of the IslandLouis le Grand; the largest Harbour he nam’d PortDauphin, and the lesser, which is very convenient, PortPhilippeaux. After having given this Character of those Straits, he says one may be sure of a Passage thro them, provided it be in the proper Season, but ’tis very difficult in the Winter. He came out of those Straits into theSouth-Seaon the 21stofJanuary, 1700. and went to view the Harbour ofSan Domingo, which he says is theSpanishFrontier, and the only Place where a new Settlement can be made there, the rest being all possess’d already. He arriv’d there the 3dofFebruary, 1700. and on the 5thanchor’d on the East of an Island call’d by different Names, but the latest Authors call itSt. MagdalensIsland. He sent his first Lieutenant to view and take possession of it, who brought him word that it was a very pleasant place, and shew’d him some fine beautiful Shrubs and Pease-Blossoms that he found upon the East side of it; from whence he conjectures that it may be a proper place to inhabit, tho he owns that the Climate is very moist, and they have frequent Rains and Mists, which he ascribes to the high Mountains. He made ready to discover four other Islands, which lie in view of this Isle and the Main Land, and sounded as he went on, but durst not venture to go among ’em with so large a Ship, because there blew a strong North-West Wind, follow’d by a thick Mist, which made him lose sight of Land; so that to his great sorrow he could not compleat the Discovery of that Frontier. He adds, that ’tis full of high Mountains down to the very Sea; but was afterwards inform’d by aSpaniardwho winter’d in those parts, that there’s a very good Harbour for Ships to ride in, where they may be moor’d to tall Trees, and that there are very few Inhabitants on this Coast, but some wandring Savages, like those on the Straits ofMagellan.
This and the other Journals convince me intirely that the best way to theSouth-Seais round CapeHorne, the Route we pursu’d in our Voyage.
Besides what I said from my own Observation, to prove how extensive a Trade we might have in those Seas, I shall add the following Observations from M.de Beauchesne; who says, that tho he was look’d upon as a Free-Booter, and that the thenSpanishGovernours on those Coasts were forbid to trade or suffer the People to trade with any but their own Subjects in those Seas, and that atValdiviaand other places they fir’d at him when he approach’d their Harbours, and deny’d so much as to sell him any Provisions, or to suffer him to wood or water; yet atRicasome particular Persons traded with him to the Value of 50000 Crowns, and told him, That that place was not so proper for them to act so manifestly contrary to Law, but if he went to a place more retir’d, they would buy all he had, tho both his Ships were full of Goods. Accordingly, when he came toHilo, a great number of Merchants bought all that he had of Value at good rates. He owns that the Cloth he had on board was half rotten, that the Merchants were vex’d at their Disappointment, and express’d their Resentment that he should come to those parts so ill provided: but in other places the People bought all to the very Rags he had on board, and brought him Provisions in abundance to sell, tho they were forbid doing so on pain of Death; and the Officers themselves conniv’d at it.
He return’d by the way of CapeHornein 58 deg. 15 min.January1701. and had as good a Passage and Season as could be desir’d, but saw no Land on either side till the 19thofJanuary1701. when he discover’d a small Island about 3 or 4 Ls. round, in Lat. 52. odd min. not mark’d in our Maps, with strong Currents near it; and on the 20thhe came to the Isle ofSebald de Wert, which is a marshy Land with some rocky Mountains, no Trees, but abundance of Sea-Flow.
Account of the Straits of Le Maire.
It is proper here likewise to give an Account of the Straits ofLe Maire, so call’d fromJames Le MaireanAmsterdamMerchant, their Discoverer in 1615. They lie in S. Lat. 55. 36. and are form’d by theTerra del Fuegoon the West,and an Island by theDutchcall’dStaten-landt, or the Country of the States, on the E. The Straits are 8 Leagues wide, with good Roads on each side, and plenty of Fish and Fowl. The Land on both sides is high and mountainous. The Discoverers saw very large Fowls bigger than Sea-Mews, and their Wings when extended above a Fathom long each. They were so tame that they flew into the Ships, and suffer’d the Sailors to handle them. In Lat. 57. they saw two barren Islands, which they call’dBarnevelt; and the South Cape ofTerra del Fuego, which runs out in a Point to Lat. 57. 48. they nam’d CapeHorne. Some compute this Strait to be only 5 Leagues in Length.
Ovalle[121]says, that in 1619 the King ofSpainbeing inform’d thatLe Mairehad discover’d these Straits, he sent two Vessels to make a further Discovery of ’em. These Ships came to the East side of the Straits ofMagellan, where the Crew found a sort of Giants higher by the Head than anyEuropeans, who gave them Gold in exchange for Scissars and other Bawbles; but this can’t be rely’d on. They went thro this Strait in less than a day’s time, it being not above 7 Leagues in length.
I return now to my Journal.
Jan. 16.Fresh Gales of Wind with cloudy Weather. These 24 hours we had extraordinary smooth Water, as if we were close under Land: Indifferent warm Weather. Wind from the W S W. to W by N.
January 20.Yesterday at three in the Afternoon we saw high Land bearing E by N. dist. about 10 Ls. being the Land about PortSt. Stephen’son the Coast ofPatagoniain theSouth-Sea, describ’d in the Draughts. S. Lat. 47.
Jan. 22.Fair Weather, with fresh Gales of Wind from W by S. to the W N W. Last nightGeorge Crossdied; he was a Smith by Trade, and Armourer’s Mate. We and theDutchesshave had a great many Men down with the Cold, and some with the Scurvey; the Distemper that this Man died of. TheDutchesshad always more sick Men than we, and have so now: They buried but one Man that died of Sickness, and tell us they hope the rest will recover. We have but one Man whose Life we doubt of, tho most want a Harbour. This day Capt.Courtneyand Capt.Cookdin’d with us. At two a clock we saw the Land on the Coast ofPatagonia, being very high, distant about 14 Ls. Lat. 44. 9. S.
Jan. 26.Fresh Gales with Clouds and Rain. We spoke with our Consort this day, who complains their Men grow worse and worse, and want a Harbour to refresh ’em; several of ours are also very indifferent, and if we don’t get ashore, and a small Refreshment, we doubt we shall both lose several Men. We are very uncertain of the Latitude and Longitude ofJuan Fernandez, the Books laying ’em down so differently, that not one Chart agrees with another; and being but a small Island, we are in some doubts of striking it, so design to hale in for the main Land to direct us.
Jan. 27.Fair Weather, smooth Water, pleasant Gales of Wind, veerable from the W. to the N W. had a good Amplitude, found the Variation to be 10 deg. Eastward. This is an excellent Climate. Lat. 36. 36. S.
Jan. 28.We have had moderate Weather. At six a clock we saw the Land, the Eastermost appearing like an Island, which we agree to be the Island ofSt. Maryon the Coast ofChili: it bore E by N. dist. 9 or 10 Ls. Our Consort’s Men are very ill; their want of Clothes, and being often wet in the cold Weather, has been the greatest cause of their being more sick than our Ships Company.
Jan. 31.These 24 hours we had the Wind between the S. and S W by W. At seven this morning we made the Island ofJuan Fernandez; it bore W S W. dist. about 7 Ls. at Noon W by S. 6 Ls. We had a good Observ. Lat. 34. 10. S.