Image unavailable: CAPTURE OF THE ACAPULCO GALLEON OFF THE COAST OF CALIFORNIA From a copper-plate engraving.CAPTURE OF THE ACAPULCO GALLEON OFF THE COAST OF CALIFORNIAFrom a copper-plate engraving.
Mexico Described.
in the Mines. He adds that there’s scarce one fair dealing Man to be found among 100 Mullattoes.
Acapulcolies in Lat. 17. bating some few Minutes, he says it is rather like a poor Village of Fishermen, than fit to be the chief Mart of theSouth Sea, and Port forChina. The Houses are mean, built of Wood, Mud and Straw, it is cover’d by high Mountains on the East side, and very subject to Distempers fromNovembertill the End ofMay, during which time they have no Rain, or very little. ’Tis as hot here inJanuary, as in our Dog-days; they are much pester’d with Gnats and Earthquakes. He observes that it never rains inNew Spainin a Morning. This Town is dirty, and ill furnish’d with Provisions, so that a Man can scarce live for a Piece of EightperDay. Most of the Inhabitants are Blacks and Mullattoes, for theSpanishMerchants are gone as soon as their Business is over at the Fair, for Goods brought hither fromChinaandPeru. It has nothing good but the Harbour, which is surrounded with High Mountains, and the Ships are moar’d to Trees that grow on the Shore. It has two Mouths, the small one at N.W. and the great at S.E. The Mouth is defended by 42 Brass Cannon. The Castellan, who is chief Magistrate during the Fair, has 20000 Pieces of 8, from the Duties paid in the Harbour, and the Comptroller and other Officers as much; the Curate has 14000per Ann.tho’ the King allows him but 180, but he exacts terribly on Baptisms and Burials, so that he will scarce bury a rich Merchant under 1000. The Trade of this Place being for many Millions, every one, in his Profession gets a great deal in a short time; for a Black will scarce work for less than a Piece of 8per diem, All the Dependance of the Inhabitants is on the Port, which also maintains the Hospitals, Monasteries and Missionaries.
During the Fair, this Town resembles a populous City, because of the great Concourse of Merchants fromPeruandMexico; then the miserable Huts, in which there was nothing before but a few nasty Mullattoes, are fill’d with gaySpaniards, and rich Merchants, and the very Porters do generally earn 3 Pieces of 8per Diem, by loading and unloading of Goods,&c.but when this Trade is over, the Porters make a sort of a Funeral, carry one of their Number about upon a Bier, and pretend to bewail his Death, because their Harvest for Gain is then at an End, till the next Year.
I shall not here say any thing further of the Seaports ofMexico, because the Reader will find them in the Appendix,which gives a full Account of all the noted Harbours in the South Sea, but shall add, that the Trade ofMexico, on this Coast, is very little, compar’d with that ofPeru, because those of the former have their Goods brought to their chief Ports in the N. Sea, directly fromEurope; so that except when the two Ships come yearly fromManilatoAcapulco, they have little Commerce in this Sea. I must here observe, that the Ships which come fromManilause to be much richer than our Prize; for she waited a long time for theChineseJunks to bring Silk, which not arriving, she came away with a Cargo mix’d with abundance of coarse Goods. The Prisoners told me, that theManilaShip did often return fromAcapulco, with 10 Millions of Dollars, and that the Officers never clear’d less than from 20 to 30000 Dollars each in a Voyage; and the Captain, whom they call General, seldom got less than 150 or 200000 Pieces of 8; so that it would have been an extraordinary Prize, could we have met with them at the Time.
I think it proper to observe here, because it belongs to the Subject, that when we arrived at theTexelinHolland, there were twoSpanishShips there, bound forCadiz, and on board of one of ’em a Sailor, who told us he was aboard the largeSpanishShip fromManila, when she arriv’d atAcapulco, very much disabled by the Engagement she had with us off ofCalifornia; that ’twas the Gunner who made them engage us so resolutely at first, and forced them to continue the Fight by keeping in the Powder-Room himself, and having taken the Sacrament to blow up the Ship in case we had boarded and over-power’d her. I was the more apt to believe this Man had seen the Ship, and this Story might be true, because he related almost every Passage of the Fight, as I have given it before in my Journal.
Mexico Described.
I shall also take Notice here that Capt.Stradling, who was taken Prisoner inAmerica, when his Ship stranded, and came off Prisoner in a French Ship, some Months after we left the South Seas, inform’d me, that the Corregidore ofGuiaquilsent an Express toLima, upon the first Notice of our being in those Parts, that they then apprehended us to be part of a Squadron of Men of War, and therefore lay still until they had certain Advice of our Strength, and in about 3 Weeks after we took the Town, they fitted out 3SpanishMen of War, which was all their South Sea Strength, against us; the biggest carried not above 32 Guns, but they were join’d by 2FrenchShips, one of 50, and theother of 36 Guns, and all well Mann’d. They stop’d atPayta, till Mr.Hatleyand his 4 Men, who lost Company with us at theGallapagosIslands, being in want of Provisions, and having had no Water for 14 Days, stood in for the Main, and landed near CapePassao, almost under the Equinox, among a barbarous sort of People, who are a mix’d Breed ofNegroesandIndians. They voluntarily surrendered themselves, being in a starving Condition, yet those Brutish People, instead of giving them Food, tied their Hands, then whipp’d them and hang’d them up, so that they must unavoidably have lost their Lives, had not a Padre, who liv’d in the Neighbourhood, came time enough by good Providence, to cut ’em down, and save them. There are several Letters from Mr.Hatleysince, which signify that he is a Prisoner atLima. Capt.Stradlinglikewise told me that theFrenchShip, which brought him toEurope, was the very Ship that we chas’d in sight ofFalklandIsland, before we passed CapeHorn. She had before attempted to sail round CapeHorn, to the South Sea; but it being the wrong Season, she met with bad Weather, and was forc’d to bear away to recruit at the River ofLa Plata, and there wait for a more proper Season to go roundTerra del Fuego, into the South Sea. When we chas’d her, she had not above 100 healthful Men on board, so that had we been able to come up with her, she must certainly have been our Prize.
Capt.Stradlingtold me they ran their Ship on an Island, and afterwards surrendered Prisoners to theSpaniards, to save their Lives, she being ready to sink; so that the Report I formerly mention’d, that part of their Crew was drown’d in the Ship, proves a Mistake.
InMexico, the Prisoners who are employ’d in cutting Logwood, have no way to escape the Cruelty of theSpaniards, but to turn Papists, and be baptized after their Manner; then they have the Liberty to chuse a Godfather, who is generally a Man of Note, and they serve him as Liverymen,&c.OneBoyse, who fled to us atGuiaquil, was baptized thus by an Abbot, in the Cathedral ofMexico, had Salt put in his Mouth, and Oil poured upon his Head, and small parcells of Cotton, which rub’d it off, were distributed as precious Relicks among the Penitents, because taken off the Head of a converted Heretick, as they call them. The nativeSpaniardsenjoy all the Posts in the Church and Monasteries, and admit noIndians, nor any mix’d Breed, to those Preferments; which they think a necessary Piece ofPolicy, that they may the better keep the Country in Subjection toSpain. Some of these Prisoners who are forced to be pretended Converts, do now and then make theirEscape, tho’ it be dangerous to attempt it, for if taken they are generally confin’d to the Workhouses for Life. There are severalEnglishmenwho were Prisoners in this Country, that, by Compliance, have obtain’d their Liberty, with the Loss of their Religion in exchange for Riches; particularly oneThomas Bull, who was born inDover, and taken inCampeche; he is a Clock-maker, has been 18 Years there, is about 45 Years old, lives in the Province ofTabasco, and grown very rich. One Capt.James Thompson, born in the Isle ofWight, has been there about 20 Years, is about 50 Years old, grown rich, and commanded the Mullattoes who took Capt.Packe, at the Beginning of the War. The Person who told me this was a Comb-maker, and endeavour’d to escape fromLa Vera Crux, but was taken, and sent Prisoner toMexico, where he came off toPeru, after he had his Liberty, by pretending he went to buy Ivory to make Combs; he gave me a long Account of his Ramble amongst theIndians, and says, he was at the Mouth of the RiverMissisippi, which falls into the Gulph ofMexico, but could not pass it: He adds, That theIndians, on the Bay ofPillachi, have murder’d several of the Padres, out of an Aversion to theSpaniards, but show a great Inclination to trade with theEnglish. There are otherEnglishmenwho now live near the Bay ofCampeche, as I was inform’d; one of ’em isTho. Falkner, he was born at the Hen and Chickens inPall-mall, where his Friends kept an Alehouse. He is married to anIndianWoman. Such of them as won’t comply to turn Papists are kept in miserable Slavery, either in the Mines or Workhouses atMexico, which City he says, is about as large asBristol. Those that are put in Workhouses are chain’d and imploy’d in carding Wool, rasping Logwood,&c.They have more Manufactures of Woollen and Linnen inMexicothan inPeru. Abundance of raw Silk is brought fromChina, and of late Years worked up into rich Brocades equal to any made inEurope.
Mexico Described.
TheMullattoesandIndians, on light Occasions, are put into the Workhouses, and kept there, till they pay their Debts or Tribute; but noSpaniards, except for the worst of Crimes: There are manyEnglishmen, who were taken cutting Logwood in the Bay ofCampeche, in several of these Workhouses, kept at hard Labour, and will end their Days inSlavery, unless their Liberty be demanded by her Majesty at the general Peace.
There’s abundance of Sheep in this Country, which yield excellent Wool, of which, I am inform’d, theEnglishPrisoners have taught them to make Cloth, worth about 15s.a Yard inEngland, which there yields 8 Pieces of 8; They have also taught them to make Bays and other coarse Woollen.
AtChopainMexico, about Lat. 12. N. there’s a great River which sinks into the Earth at once, runs under the Mountains, and risesbiggerabout 15 Leagues from the Place where it sunk. ’Tis twice as large as theThames. This River afterwards joins that ofTabasco, and falls into the North Sea, as most of the great Rivers of this vast Continent do, he told me, about this Place. There are high Mountains, with Plains on the Top, where the Air is very temperate, and all ourEuropeanFruits grow; whereas at the Bottom of these Mountains they have none but the Fruits of hot Climates, tho’ ’tis not above 5 Leagues asunder.
There are also Woods of Pines,&c.on those Mountains, among which there are Flocks of harmonious Birds, which sing together in an agreeable Consort, that resembles a fine Organ, so that Strangers are amaz’d to hear such Musick strike up of a sudden in the Woods. There’s also a strange Creature in those Woods, call’d by theSpaniardsan Ounce, much of the Form and Size of a Woolf-dog; but it has Talons, and the Head is more like that of a Tyger: It kills Men and Beasts, which makes travelling through the Woods dangerous; ’tis said to eat nothing but the Heart of its Prey.
I had many more Relations from this Man, who had been 7 Years a Prisoner in this Country; but they being too tedious, I shall add nothing more concerningMexico, but that the Worm is larger, and eats the Bottoms of the Ships more on its Sea-Coasts, than any other Place where we were. All the Coast fromGuiaquilinPeruto the Northward, as far as the Latitude of 20 inMexico, ’tis reckon’d unhealthful, but the contrary fromGuiaquilto the Southward.
IShall not trouble the Reader with the History of its Conquest by theSpaniards, nor the fabulous Stories of itsIncasor Princes, the Curious may find them in theSpanishWriters, and for the Natives, they are much the same as those I have described in other Parts.
PERU, properly so called, is about 1000 Leagues long, but the Breadth various, from 100 to 300 Leagues. The best known Part of it lies on theSouth Sea, and is divided into the 3 Audiences ofQuitoin the North,Limain the Middle, andLa Platain the South. The Air ofQuitois temperate enough, tho’ under the Line; the Soil is fruitful, abounds with Cattle and Corn, and they have Mines of Gold, Silver, Quick-silver and Copper; they have also Emeralds and Medicinal Drugs. The Audience ofLimais most noted, because of its Capital of the same Name, being the Residence of the Viceroy ofPeru. This Country abounds with Mines of Gold, Silver, Quicksilver, Vermilion, and Salt. The Audience ofLa PlataI have already described in my Account of that River. I shall only add, that tho’ the Silver Mines ofPotosibe much decay’d, yet some say the King ofSpainhas annually about 2 Millions of Crownsper Annumfor his Fifth; and that those ofLa PlataandPorco, in the same Province, which were, upon discovery of the Mines ofPotosi, less used, may probably be open’d again to advantage; now Goods are sold so cheap by the continual Supplies fromFrance, that theIndians, who were imploy’d in the Manufactures, must again work at the Mines, their own coarse Goods being brought thither cheaper than they can make ’em.
Peru Described.
TheSpanishWriters in general say, that for 500 Leagues in Length, fromTumbeztoChili, it never thunders, lightens nor rains, which agrees with the Informations that I had from our Prisoners,viz.that from CapeBlancoin S. Lat. 4. toCoquimbo, Lat. 30. it never rains, but the Want of this is supply’d by great Dews, so that they have as good Corn and Fruit, particularly Wheat, aboutTruxillo, as any inEurope. In the Vallies near the Sea the Climate is hot, but temper’d with Breezes from the Ocean and Mountains. In the Hilly part, far into the Country, ’tis Winter, and very rainy, when ’tis Summer in the Plains, though in thesame Latitude. The Product, Beasts and Birds, being much the same with other Parts of theSouth SeaCoast, I shall not insist upon ’em.
They have their Cordage, Cotton, Cloth, Pitch and Tar fromChiliandRio LezoinMexico, and tho’ the Country abounds with Provision, ’tis always dear near the Mines, because there Husbandry is neglected. The Cordage they use is made of coarse Silk Grass, which is very tough, draws small when strain’d, but grows twice as big when slack’d.
Capt.Stradlingtold me he travel’d the great Road fromQuitotowardsCusco, in his way toLima, which has Piles of Stone on each side for some hundreds of Miles. When he and his Men were brought Prisoners toLima, theSpaniardsput them in a close Dungeon, used them very barbarously, and threaten’d to send them to the Mines, because he attempted his Escape, and sail’d in a Canoe fromLimatowardsPanama, near 400 Leagues, intending to cross the Isthmus, and to get toJamaicaby some of our trading Sloops, but was taken and brought back toLima. Before he came thence he saw several of theSpaniards, who had been our Prisoners, and said, they all own’d we had treated them very civilly, which has in part taken off the bad Impression they had conceiv’d of theEnglishin those Parts; for not being used to War, they account all alike that come to cruize, because of the unheard of Cruelties and Debaucheries which were committed about 25 Years ago by the Buccaneers in those Parts, which their Priests did improve to give them an ill Idea of all those they think fit to call Hereticks, not considering that most of those Disorders were committed byFrenchBuccaneers of their own Religion.
Having said so much ofPeruin several Parts of my Journal, I need not enlarge upon it here; the Spaniards extend it fromPanamatoCoquimbo, which is about 800 Leagues, but the Breadth various. The Gold Mines are most of ’em in the North Parts, betwixtPanamaand the Equinox.
Before theFrenchtraded hither round CapeHorne, there was a considerable Commerce fromPanamato all the Ports of theSouth Sea, as I noted before; but now they have supplied the Country so much withEuropeanGoods, and so cheap, that this Trade is in a manner sunk; so that from hence forward there will be little sent over Land fromPanamato the North Sea, but the King’s Revenue. TheSpaniardshave a great many Ships and small Vessels belongingto the several Ports ofPeru, which are chiefly imploy’d in carrying Timber, Salt, Salt-fish, Wine, Brandy, Oil, and other Commodities, from one part of the Coast to another, without which they could not well subsist; for this Country is laid to be more populous and better inhabited thanMexico. They make Woollen Cloth here of several sorts; I have seen some made atQuitoworth about 8s.perYard, that is sold here for 5 Dollars. TheIndiansdo likewise make a coarse sort of Cotton Cloth; but since theFrenchfurnish them better and cheaper, those Manufactures will come to nothing, and the People must betake themselves to digging of Mines, or what other Imployment they can get.
TheSpanishSettlements in this Country, as well as inMexicoandChili, are not so full ofIndiansas formerly; for many of ’em are gone to remote Parts, and live in Colonies by themselves, to avoid the Slavery and Taxes impos’d on them by theSpaniards, for they were oblig’d to pay from 8 to 14 Dollarsper Ann.perHead to the King, which had it been duly collected and faithfully paid, would have amounted to the greatest Poll Tax in the World; but ’tis now lessen’d by the removal of so many Natives as abovemention’d, and the Impoverishment of the rest, who are sensible enough of their Oppression, but are so dispirited, that they can do nothing to assert their Liberty, and they are besides kept under by the Artifices of the Priests.
TheSpaniardshere are very profuse in their Clothing and Equipage, and affect to wear the most costly things that can be purchas’d; so that those who trade hither with such Commodities as they want, may be sure to have the greatest Share of their Wealth.
Chili Described.
Icome next to the Kingdom ofChili, which lies nearest to those who shall think fit to attempt a Trade fromEnglandinto theSouth Sea. FatherOvalle, a Native of this Country, and Procurator for it atRome, agrees with our Maps, that it lies farthest South of any part ofAmericaon that call’d theSouthorPacifick Sea. He bounds it withPeruon the North, the Straits ofMagellanon the South,Paraguay,Tucuman, andPatagoniaon the East, and theSouth Seaon the West. He begins it at S. Latitude 25, and extends it to Lat. 59, which is near 500 Leagues. The Breadth of it varies, and the broadest Place from East to West he makes about 150 Leagues, tho’Chiliproperly so call’d is not above 20 or 30 Leagues broad, from the Chain of Mountains namedCordillerato theSouth Sea; but when the King ofSpaindividedAmericainto particular Governments, he added toChilithe vast Plains ofCuio, which are of an equal Length, and twice as broad asChiliit self. The Country in generalOvalleplaces in the 3d, 4thand 5thClimates; the longest Day in the 3dis 13 Hours, and in the 5thabove 14.
The firstEuropeanwho took possession of it wasDon Diego d’Almagro, aSpaniard, in 1535. He is said to march hither fromPeruby Order of the King ofSpain, with a Body ofSpanishTroops and 15000Indiansand Blacks commanded by someIndianPrinces, who had submitted to theSpaniards. I shall not trouble the Reader with the particular History of theSpanishConquests till they reduced this Country, which they may find at large inOvalle,Herrera, and others; but shall only say in general, that it was not totally in subjection to theSpaniardstill the Year 1640, when the Inhabitants submitted to the Crown ofSpain, on Condition that they should not be given in Property as Slaves. TheSpaniards, who sufficiently experienc’d the Valour of this People, treat them with more Civility than they do the rest of theAmericans, on purpose to keep them in Obedience, and for the most part they have submitted to the Church ofRome.
TheSansonssay thatChili, in the Language of the Country, signifies Cold, which is so excessive in the Mountains call’dSierra Nevada, a part of theCordillera, that it freezes Men and Cattle to Death, and keeps their Corps from Putrefaction; so thatAlmagrolost a great many of his Men and Horses as he past those Mountains. But the Vallies toward the Sea are very healthful, the Climate temperate, and the Soil excellent and fruitful, tho’ with some difference, according as it lies nearer or further from the Equator; but the Coasts are subject to strong Gales of Wind.
The Country is divided into 3 Quarters, and those 3 into 13 Jurisdictions. The Quarter ofChiliproper extends from the RiverCopiapoto that ofMaule, and is hotter thanSpain. The 2dQuarter call’d Imperial, reaches from the RiverMauleto that ofGallegos, and much resembles the Climate ofSpain. The Proximity of the Mountains on one side, and of the Sea on the other, makes it colder than otherwise itwould be; but it has Warmth enough to make it one of the best Countries inAmerica. The Valley ofCopiapois so fruitful, that it frequently yields 300 for one single Measure, those ofGuascoandCoquimbofall very little short of it, and that ofChiliproper is so excellent, that it gives Name to the whole Country by way of Eminence.
I come now to give a brief View of whatOvalle, a Native, says to it in general.
He tells us, that inChili, properly so call’d,viz.the Country betwixt the Mountains and the Sea, the Soil and Climate exceed those of any part ofEuropein Goodness, by the Confession of theEuropeansthemselves: He says it is like the best part ofEuropein every thing, except the Opposition of the Seasons, it being Spring and Summer in the one, when it is Autumn and Winter in the other; but in the Vallies the Heat and Cold are not so excessive as inEurope, especially from Lat. 36, or thereabouts to Lat. 45, so that neither the Heat of the Day nor the Cold of the Night can be complain’d of, from whence it is that the Inhabitants make no difference between the Summer and Winter in their Bedding and Clothes. He adds, that they are not troubled here with Lightning, and seldom hear Thunder, except at a great distance. They have no Storms of Hail in the Spring, and seldom above 2 or 3 rainy Days together in the Winter, after which the Sky is serene without the least Cloud. The North Winds bring the Clouds and Rain, and the South Winds speedily make all clear. They have no poysonous or ravenous Creatures, except a small sort of Lions, which sometimes prey on their Flocks, but always fly from Men; nor are these Lions numerous, there being only a few of them in the Woods and Desarts. He observes as a peculiar Property of the Air ofChili, that no Bugs will live in it, tho’ they swarm inCuioon the other side of the Mountains. From the whole he infers, that there is no Country inAmericaso agreeable toEuropeanConstitutions asChili, and Air and Provisions are so like their own, but rather better.
Chili Described.
The Spring begins about the Middle of ourAugust, and lasts till the Middle ofNovember; then the Summer holds to the Middle ofFebruary, the Autumn continues to the Middle ofMay, and the Winter from thence to the Middle ofAugust. During this Season the Trees are depriv’d of their Leaves, and the Ground is cover’d with white Frosts,which are dissolved about 2 hours after the Sun rises. The Snow falls seldom in the Vallies, but in great Quantity in the Mountains, from whence it is melted in the Summer, and fructifies the Vallies and Plains with Rivulets. In the Spring the Fields are adorn’d with beautiful Flowers of all Colours and sorts, and of an admirable Scent, from whence they distil a fine Liquid called Angels Water, which makes a noble Perfume. The choicest Flowers and Plants that we cultivate grow wild there; they have Groves of Mustard Trees higher than a Man on Horseback, and the Birds build their Nests in them. They have many Physical Plants and Herbs, with which theirIndianPhysicians perform wonderful Cures, when the Patients are despair’d of by ourEuropeanDoctors, but they are very shy of communicating those Secrets. Fruits and Seeds brought hither fromEuropethrive very well, but those ofMexicoandPerudon’t. They have all our sorts of Fruit in such abundance, that every one may take what they please; so that none is sold, except a sort of extraordinary large Strawberries, which they cultivate. They have Oats, Wheat and Maiz in such plenty, that they are seldom troubled with Want of Grain. Their Pastures are so rich, and their Cattle of all sorts so numerous, that they don’t value the Flesh, but salt the Tongues and Loins, and send ’em toPeruwith the Hides and Tallow, which is a great Branch of their Trade. They have Store of noble and generous Wines, both white and red; their Vines are larger, and their Clusters of Grapes much bigger than any inEurope. They have also plenty of Olives, Groves of Cocoa Trees of several Leagues long. Almond-trees, and such Store of Silk grass, which they use instead of Hemp, that they furnish all the Coasts of theSouth Seawith Cordage for their Ships; they have also great Quantities of Annise and Cummin-seed, Salt, Flax, Wool, Leather, Timber, Pitch, Amber,&c.So that according toOvalle, Merchants may trade from hence to other Parts in theSouth Sea, and especially toLima, from 100 to 300per Cent.Profit, of which I have also been informed by our Prisoners. Though they have abundance of Mulberry-trees, they breed no Silk-worms; so that the Ladies, who are extravagant in their Apparel, impoverish the Country by purchasing the richest Silks, tho’ they might easily have enough of their own. They have plenty of Bees, yet have their Wax fromEurope, for want of Industry to improve their own, and they have Pepper and other Spice from theEast Indies, tho’ they have a kind of Spice of their own, which might very wellsupply them. He adds, that the Herbage, Fishing, Hunting, Wood for Fuel and Timber, and Salt Mines, are here in common, so that every one may take what they please. They make little use of their Mines of Lead and Quicksilver; forPeruhas enough of the latter to purify their Silver.Ovallesays the Gold Mines are so many, that from the Confines ofPeruto the Straits ofMagellanthere is no part of the Country without ’em; but they are not so much follow’d as inPeru, and they don’t so much apply themselves to the Silver Mines, because those of Gold are wrought with less charge; their Silver is dug from hard Rocks, ground to Powder in their Mills, and then refin’d with Quicksilver, which is laborious as well as expensive; whereas they have no other trouble with the Gold than to wash the Earth from it; yet sometimes they follow the Veins of Gold through Rocks, when they have hopes that they will grow larger, as they frequently do, and one of these Veins is often enough to enrich the Discoverers. Gold is not dug here in such Plenty, since the War betwixt theSpaniardsandAraucanos; but the Natives wait for the Winter Rains, which wash it down from the Mountains, into Rivers, Ponds,&c.when the Women go into the Water, feel out the Grains with their Toes, and make up as much as supplys their present Necessities, as our Author says, but to me this appears a very odd Way to get Gold. He tells us that he sent one of those Grains toSeville, where being touch’d, it was found to be 23 Carats fine, without any manner of Purification. Most of the Bells and great Guns us’d inPeru, are made of the Copper of this Country.
Chili Described.
He comes next to give an Account of the Chain of Mountains, namedCordillera, from his own Observation, and what he has read in Authors: He says they run from N. to S. from the Province ofQuitoto the Straits ofMagellan, which is above a Thousand Leagues, and accounts them the highest Mountains in the World; they are generally 40 Leagues broad, and intermix’d with Abundance of habitable Valleys: These Mountains form 2 Ridges, the lowermost is cover’d with Woods and Groves, but the higher barren, because of the excessive Cold and Snow on them. The most remarkable Animals in these Mountains are, 1. that Species of Hogs which have their Navels on their Backs, call’d Pecarys, these go in great Herds, with each their Leader, and till he be kill’d, ’tis not safe for Hunters to attack them, but whenhe falls, they immediately disperse. 2. Wild Goats, whose Hair is as soft as Silk, and much us’d for fine Hats. 4. Their Sheep call’d Guanacos, shap’d like Camels, but of a far less Size, with Wool so fine that it is preferr’d to Silk for Softness and Colour. He adds, that the ancientYncas, or Princes, cut two Roads through those Mountains, and if we may believeHerrera,[148]one of them was pav’d for 900 Leagues fromCuscotoChili, ’twas 25 Foot broad, and at every 4 Leagues, there was a noble Structure, and at each half League Couriers to relieve one another, in carrying Messages from the State. He says, there are still a sort of Inns on this Road, where Travellers find all Necessaries; but the Paths into the Mountains are so narrow, that a single Mule can scarce pass them. The Ascent begins at the very Shore of the Sea, but that which is properly call’d the Mountains, requires three or four Days Journey to the Top of them, where the Air is so very piercing and cold, that he found difficulty to breath, when he pass’d them, so that he and his fellow Travellers were obliged to breath quicker and stronger than ordinary and to apply their Handkerchiefs to their Mouths, to break the extreme Coldness of the Air.Herrerasays, That those who pass them fromPeruare troubled with Reachings and Vomitings.Ovalleadds, That there are Meteors upon those Mountains sometimes so high in the Air, that they resemble Stars, and at other times so low, that they frighten the Mules and buz about their Ears and Feet. He says, on the Top of those Mountains they can’t see the Country below for Clouds, tho’ the Sky over their Heads is clear and bright, and the Sun shines with admirable Beauty. When he pass’d the highest Part of that which is properly call’d theCordillera, he found no Snow, tho’ in the beginning of Winter, whereas, in the lower Parts, ’twas so deep, that the Mules could scarce travel. He supposes the Reason why there was no Snow on the Top is, that it reaches above the middle Region of the Air. There are 16 Vulcanos in this Chain of Mountains, which sometimes break out with dreadful Effects, cleave the Rocks, and issue great Quantities of Fire, with a Noise resembling Thunder. I refer to our Author for the particular Names and Places of those Vulcanos. He doubts not but there are many rich Mines among those Mountains, tho’ the Natives industriously conceal them, and make it Death to discover them, which has defeated several Attempts of that Nature by theSpaniards.The Natives have no occasion for those Mines themselves, because they have Plenty of Provisions, which is all they desire, and they are afraid that such Discoveries will occasion theSpaniardsto dispossess them, or to make them work in the Mines as Slaves. He concludes this Head with an Account that very rich Mines were discover’d at the Foot of those Mountains on the side ofCuio.
Those Mountains of theCordilleraare passable only in Summer, or in the Beginning of the Winter. There are frightful Precipices, and deep Rivers, at the sides of the narrow Passes, which frequently occasions the Loss of Mules and Travellers. The Streams run with such Violence, and so far below the Roads, that to look at them turns ones Head. The Ascents and Descents are so steep, that they are difficult to pass on Foot, but the Irksomeness of the Way is alleviated by the beautiful Cascades which the Water naturally forms as it falls from the Rocks and Mountains; and in some of the Valleys the Water springs up to a great Height, like Fountains made by Art, amongst odoriferous Plants and Flowers, which make an Agreeable Prospect. All these Streams and Springs are so very cool, that a Man can’t drink above 2 or 3 Sips at once, nor hold his Hand in them above a Minute. In some Places there are hot Springs, good against many Distempers, and leave a green Tincture in the Channels thro’ which they run. One of those Rivers, call’dMendoca, has a natural Bridge of Rock over it, from the Vault of which there hangs several Pieces of Stone, resembling Salt, which congeal like Icecles, as the Water drops from the Rock, and are form’d into several Shapes and Colours. This Bridge is broad enough for 3 or 4 Carts to pass a-breast. There’s another Bridge near this, call’d theYncas, laid over by Art, betwixt 2 Rocks, as some say, but our Author thinks it is the Work of Nature: It is so very high from the River, that he could not hear the Stream, which runs with great Rapidity, and though it be a large River, it appear’d like a Brook when he look’d down from the Bridge, which he could not do without being struck with Horror.
Chili Described.
Chili Described.
He comes next to describe the particular Rivers which run from these Mountains; but I shall only mention the chief of them; and tho’ most of them don’t run above 30 Leagues, yet some of them, towards their Mouths, are navigable by Ships of the greatest Burthen. The first is that which rises in the Confines ofPeru, about S. Lat. 25.’tis call’d the River of Salt, because ’tis so salt that it can’t be drank, and petrifies what’s thrown into it. 2.Copiapo, which rises in Lat. 26. runs 20 Leagues from E. to W. and forms a Bay and a Harbour, at its Entrance into the Sea. 3.Guascorises in Lat. 28. and forms likewise a Bay and Harbour. 4. The River ofCoquimbo, which rises in Lat. 30, forms a noble Bay and a Port, with beautiful Myrtles, and other Trees on the Bank, that make a noble and a pleasant Grove. 5.Aconcagua, a large deep River that rises about Lat. 33. runs thro’ several fruitful Valleys. 6.Mayporises about Lat. 33 and a half. It is so rapid, that it admits no Bridge but one made of Cables; it enters the Sea with so much Force, that its Waters form a Circle, and are distinguished a great Way. It is brackish, noted for excellent Trouts, and the Sheep which feed on its Banks, afford Mutton of a curious Relish. There are several other Rivers which fall into it; the first is, that of St.Jago, aliasMapocho; ’tis divided into several Streams, to water the District of St.Jago, which sometimes it over-flows: Not far from the City it sinks under Ground, and rises again in a Grove, about 2 or 3 Leagues distant. 2. The RiverPoangue, its Water is extraordinary clear and sweet, and flowing thro’ Veins of Metal, very much helps Digestion. It runs for several Leagues under Ground, fructifies the Valley which lies over it, and produces excellent Corn and Melons. The Banks of this River are adorn’d with beautiful Trees. 3. The RiversDecollinaandLampa, which unite together within 10 or 12 Leagues off their Rise, and form the noted Lake ofCudagues. It is so deep, that great Vessels may sail in it, is about 2 Leagues long, and its Banks cover’d with Trees that are verdant all the Year. It abounds with excellent Trouts and Smelts, which are a great Conveniency to the City of St.Jago. 7.Rapelis nothing inferior toMaypo, enters the Sea about Lat. 34. and a half, and receives several other rapid Streams. The adjacent Country has excellent Pastures for fattening of Cattle. 8.Delorarises in Lat. 34 three quarters, and is exactly like the former. 9.Maul, a great River, which rises in Lat. 35. and bounds the Jurisdiction of St.Jago. The Natives call all the Country betwixt those Rivers,Promocaes, i.e.a Place of Dancing and Delight, which our Author says is very just, for he never saw a more pleasant Country, nor one better furnish’d with Provisions of all sorts. TheSpaniardshave many noble Farms in theseParts. Near the Mouth of this River, there’s a Dock for building of Ships, and a Ferry belonging to the King for the Conveniency of Passengers. 10.Itata; ’tis 3 times as large and deep as theMaul, and enters the Sea about Lat. 36. In most Places they pass it on Rafts, and in some it is fordable. 11.Andalien, a River which runs slow, and enters the spacious and pleasant Bay ofConception, at Lat. 36 three quarters. There’s another small River, which runs through the middle of the City ofConception, a little above which it falls from a high Rock, and gives the Inhabitants an Opportunity to form all sorts of Water-works from it, among pleasant Groves of Lawrels, Myrtles, and other odoriferous Plants. 12.Biobio, a famous River, which enters the Sea, in Lat. 37. ’tis the largest inChili, and is from 2 to 3 Mile broad at its Mouth. Our Author says its Waters run thro’ Veins of Gold, and Fields of Sarsaparilla, which make them very wholesom, and good against several Distempers. This River is the Boundary betwixt theIndianswho are Friends to theSpaniards, and those who are their Enemies, and make frequent Incursions upon them. This obliges theSpaniardsto keep many Garrisons in those Parts, but the Natives trust to their Mountains. This River swells so much in the Winter, that it becomes unpassable, and occasions a Cessation of Arms on both sides. These People, saysOvalle, have given theSpaniardsmore trouble than all the other Natives ofAmerica; so that they are forced to maintain 12 Forts, well provided with Men and Cannon, besides the City ofConceptionandChillam, to over-aw the Natives. 13.Imperial, a pleasant River, which falls into the Sea, about Lat. 39. after having receiv’d many other Rivers, and among ’em two which run into the famous Lake ofBuren, where theIndianshave an impregnable Fortress. 24.Tolten, about 30 Miles from the RiverImperial, is deep enough for great Ships, where it enters the Sea. 15. About 8 Leagues farther, the RiverQuenaleenters the Sea, and is capable of small Barks. 16.Valdivia, so called fromPedro de Valdivia, one of the Conquerors and Governors ofChili, who built a Port and City, near the Mouth of it, where great Ships may come up about 3 Leagues from the Sea. This River opens to the North, and over-against the City lies the pleasant Island ofConstantine, with two others; the River is navigable on both sides of the Island, but deepest on the South side. 17.Chilo, which rises from a Lake at the Foot of theCordillera, where there are Baths good againstthe Leprosy and other Distempers. Our Author says so little of the Rivers on the East side of theCordillera, that we pass them over.
Ovallegives an Account of many remarkable Fountains, both hot and cold, good against most Distempers; but I shall not insist on them. He says, they have many Sea Lakes or Bays, which bring great Profit to the Owners, because their Fisheries are more certain than those of the Sea; and furnish most part of the Lenten Fair to the Inhabitants, and in the hot Season abundance of Salt.
He adds, that in the Valley ofLampa, near St.Jago, there’s an Herb, about a Foot high, resembling SweetBasil. In Summer it is cover’d with Grains of Salt, like Pearl, which is more savoury, and has a finer Flavour than any other Salt. Our Author comes next to treat of the Fertility of the Coast, which, he says, among other Fish produces Shell-Fish in greater Quantities, larger than any where else, and 1. Oisters, valuable both for their Meat and Pearls. 2. Choros, a fine Sort of Shell-fish, which also breed Pearl. 3. Manegues, which have 2 round Shells, the inside of which resembles Mother of Pearl. In short, he says, the Sea throws up Shell-fish, in such Quantities, upon some Parts of the Coast, that Ships may be loaded with them, and their Shells are of such Variety of Colours and Shapes, that ourEuropeanVirtusos might from hence have a curious Collection, whereas theIndiansonly burn them for Chalk. There are other Sorts of Fish on these Coasts, some of which they call Sea-Stars, others Suns and Moons, because they resemble those Planets, as they are usually painted, which are common elsewhere, but not so large as here. These Fish reduc’d into Powder, and drank in Wine, are an infallible Remedy against Drunkenness, and frequently us’d for that end, because it creates an Abhorrence of Wine in those who drink it, says our Author. He adds, that great Quantities of Amber are found on this Coast, particularly, the grey sort, which is the best. They have all other sorts of Fish, common to us inEurope, besides others, peculiar to themselves.
He comes next to their Birds, and besides those which are common inEurope, there are 1. Flamencos, bigger than Turkeys, their Feathers of a white and scarlet Colour, of which the Natives make Ornaments, and their Legs are so long that they walk thro’ Lakes and Ponds. 2. The Child Bird, so call’d, because they look like a swadled Child, with its Arms at Liberty: They are very good Meat.3. Airones, so much valued for the Feathers, to make Tufts, that formerly, they say, every Feather upon their Heads cost 2 Reals. These Birds are rare. There are others call’d Garcolos, whose Feathers are generally us’d by Soldiers. 4. Voycas, from whose Notes theIndianspretend to foretel Death, Sickness, or other Misfortunes; the Feathers on their Breasts are of a deep scarlet Colour, and the rest brown. 5. Pinguedas, their Body is of the size of an Almond; they feed upon Flowers, and shine like polish’d Gold, mix’d with green; the Males have a lively Orange Colour, like Fire on their Heads, and the Tails of those Birds are a Foot long, and 2 Inches broad. 6. Condores, which are white as Ermin; their Skins are extreme soft and warm, and therefore us’d as Gloves. They have abundance of Ostriches, and Variety of Hawks in this Country.
Ovallecomes next to treat of their Beasts. He says, they had no Cows, Horses, Sheep, Hogs, House-Cats, nor common Dogs of any sort, Goats, Asses, or Rabbits, till they were brought hither by theSpaniards, but now all these are increas’d to a wonderful Degree by the Richness of their Country and Pasture, so that one Cow frequently yields 150 lb Weight of Tallow.Herrerasays, that when theSpaniardscame first hither, a Horse was commonly sold for 1000 Crowns, but now they are so plenty that they send them yearly toPeru. The most remarkable Animals, which are not common with us, are, 1. Their Sheep, mention’d before, shap’d like Camels, tho’ not so large: The Natives us’d them for Ploughing and Carriage, before they hadEuropeanCattle: Their upper Lips are slit, with which they spit at those who vex them, and wherever their Spittle falls, it causes a Scab. They govern’d them by a kind of Bridle put thro’ their Ears, and they would kneel like Camels, to take on their Burden. 2. Wild Goats, which very much resemble those Sheep, but are all of a red clear Colour, so very swift that they out-run Horses, and are never to be tamed. They feed in great Herds, and are hunted by Dogs, which easily catch the young ones, that are excellent Meat. The Flesh of the old ones, dried and smoaked, is reckon’d the best of its kind. These Creatures, especially the oldest, have Bezoar Stones, in a Bag under their Belly. Our Author says, he brought one of those Stones toItaly, which weigh’d 32 Ounces, and was as perfect an Oval as if it had been form’d by a Turner; he gave theIndianwho found it 70 Pieces of 8 for it.