Chapter 88

LEAD-SHOT; (Plomb de chasse, Fr.;Schrot,Flintenschrot, Germ.) The origin of most of the imperfections in the manufacture of lead-shot is the too rapid cooling of the spherules by their being dropped too hot into the water, whereby their surfaces form a solid crust, while their interior remains fluid, and in its subsequent concretion, shrinks, so as to produce the irregularities of the shot.The patent shot towers originally constructed in England obviate this evil by exposing the fused spherules after they pass through the cullender, to a large body of air during their descent into the water tub placed on the ground. The greatest erection of this kind is probably at Villach in Carinthia, being 240 Vienna, or 249 English feet high.The quantity of arsenic added to the mass of melted lead, varies according to the quality of this metal; the harder and less ductile the lead is, the more arsenic must be added. About 3 pounds of either white arsenic or orpiment is enough for one thousand parts of soft lead, and about 8 for the coarser kinds. The latter are employed preferably for shot, as they are cheaper and answer sufficiently well. The arsenical alloy is made either by introducing some of this substance at each melting; or by making a quantity of the compound considerably stronger at once, and adding a certain portion of this to each charge of lead. If the particles of the shot appear lens-shaped, it is a proof that the proportion of arsenic has been too great; but if they are flattened upon one side, if they are hollowed in their middle, calledcuppingby the workman, or drag with a tail behind them, the proportion of arsenic is too small.The following is the process prescribed by the patentees, Ackerman and Martin. Melt a ton of soft lead, and sprinkle round its sides in the iron pot, about two shovelfuls of wood ashes, taking care to leave the centre clear; then put into the middle about 40 pounds of arsenic to form a rich alloy with the lead. Cover the pot with an iron lid, and lute the joints quickly with loam or mortar to confine the arsenical vapours, keeping up a moderate fire to maintain the mixture fluid for three or four hours; after which skim carefully, and run the alloy into moulds to form ingots or pigs. The composition thus made is to be put in the proportion of one pig or ingot into 1000 pounds of melted ordinary lead. When the whole is well combined, take a perforated skimmer and let a few drops of it fall from some height into a tub of water. If they do not appear globular, some more arsenical alloy must be added.Lead which contains a good deal of pewter or tin must be rejected, because it tends to produce elongated drops or tails.From two to three tons are usually melted at once in the large establishments. The surface of the lead gets covered with a crust of oxide of a white spongy nature, sometimes calledcreamby the workmen, which is of use to coat over the bottom of the cullender, because without such a bed the heavy melted lead would run too rapidly through the holes for the granulating process, and would form oblong spheroids. The mounting of this filter, or lining of the cullender, is reckoned to be a nice operation by the workmen, and is regarded usually as a valuable secret.The cullenders are hollow hemispheres of sheet iron about 10 inches in diameter, perforated with holes, which should be perfectly round and free from burs. These must be of an uniform size in each cullender; but of course a series of different cullenders with sorted holes for every different size of lead shot, must be prepared. The holes have nearly the following diameters for the annexed numbers of shot.No.0.1⁄50of an inch.1.1⁄58—2.1⁄66—3.1⁄72—4.1⁄80—From No. 5. to No. 9. the diameter decreases by regular gradations, the latter being only1⁄360of an inch.The operation is always carried on with three cullenders at a time; which are supported upon projecting grates of a kind of chafing dish made of sheet iron somewhat like a triangle. This chafing dish should be placed immediately above the fall; while at its bottom there must be a tub half filled with water for receiving the granulated lead. The cullenders are not in contact, but must be parted by burning charcoal in order to keep the lead constantly at the proper temperature, and to prevent its solidifying in the filter. The temperature of the lead bath should vary with the size of the shot; for the largest, it should be such that a bit of straw plunged into it will be scarcely browned, but for all it should be nicely regulated. The height from which the particles should be let fall varies likewise with the size of the shot; as the congelation is the more rapid, the smaller they are. With a fall of 33 yards or 100 feet, from No. 4. to No. 9. may be made; but for larger sizes, 150 feet of height will be required.Every thing being arranged as above described, the workman puts the filter-stuff into the cullender, pressing it well against the sides. He next pours lead into it with an iron ladle, but not in too great quantity at a time, lest it should run through too fast. The shot thereby formed and found in the tub are not all equal.The centre of the cullender being less hot affords larger shot than the sides, which are constantly surrounded with burning charcoal. Occasionally, also, the three cullenders employed together may have holes of different sizes, in which case the tub may contain shot of very various magnitudes. These are separated from each other by square sieves of different fineness, 10 inches broad and 16 inches long, their bottoms being of sheet iron pierced with holes of the same diameters as those of the cullenders. These sieves are suspended by means of two bands above boxes for receiving the shot; one sieve being usually set above another in consecutive numbers, for instance 1 and 2. The shot being put into the upper sieve, No. O. will remain in it, No. 1. will remain in the lower sieve, and No. 2. will, with all the others, pass through it into the chest below. It is obvious that by substituting sieves of successive fineness, shot of any dimension may be sorted.In the preceding process the shot has been sorted to size; it must next be sorted to form, so as to separate all the spheroids which are not truly round, or are defective in any respect. For this purpose a board is made use of about 27 inches long and 16 broad, furnished partially with upright ledges; upon this tray a handful or two of the shot to be sorted being laid, it is inclined very slightly, and gently shaken in the horizontal direction, when the globular particles run down by one edge, into a chest set to receive them, while those of irregular forms remain on the sides of the tray, and are reserved to be re-melted.After being sorted in this way, the shot requires still to be smoothed and polished bright. This object is effected by putting it into a small octagonal cask, through a door in its side, turning upon a horizontal iron axis, which rests in plummer boxes at its ends, and is made to revolve by any mechanical power. A certain quantity of plumbago or black lead is put in along with the shot.

LEAD-SHOT; (Plomb de chasse, Fr.;Schrot,Flintenschrot, Germ.) The origin of most of the imperfections in the manufacture of lead-shot is the too rapid cooling of the spherules by their being dropped too hot into the water, whereby their surfaces form a solid crust, while their interior remains fluid, and in its subsequent concretion, shrinks, so as to produce the irregularities of the shot.

The patent shot towers originally constructed in England obviate this evil by exposing the fused spherules after they pass through the cullender, to a large body of air during their descent into the water tub placed on the ground. The greatest erection of this kind is probably at Villach in Carinthia, being 240 Vienna, or 249 English feet high.

The quantity of arsenic added to the mass of melted lead, varies according to the quality of this metal; the harder and less ductile the lead is, the more arsenic must be added. About 3 pounds of either white arsenic or orpiment is enough for one thousand parts of soft lead, and about 8 for the coarser kinds. The latter are employed preferably for shot, as they are cheaper and answer sufficiently well. The arsenical alloy is made either by introducing some of this substance at each melting; or by making a quantity of the compound considerably stronger at once, and adding a certain portion of this to each charge of lead. If the particles of the shot appear lens-shaped, it is a proof that the proportion of arsenic has been too great; but if they are flattened upon one side, if they are hollowed in their middle, calledcuppingby the workman, or drag with a tail behind them, the proportion of arsenic is too small.

The following is the process prescribed by the patentees, Ackerman and Martin. Melt a ton of soft lead, and sprinkle round its sides in the iron pot, about two shovelfuls of wood ashes, taking care to leave the centre clear; then put into the middle about 40 pounds of arsenic to form a rich alloy with the lead. Cover the pot with an iron lid, and lute the joints quickly with loam or mortar to confine the arsenical vapours, keeping up a moderate fire to maintain the mixture fluid for three or four hours; after which skim carefully, and run the alloy into moulds to form ingots or pigs. The composition thus made is to be put in the proportion of one pig or ingot into 1000 pounds of melted ordinary lead. When the whole is well combined, take a perforated skimmer and let a few drops of it fall from some height into a tub of water. If they do not appear globular, some more arsenical alloy must be added.

Lead which contains a good deal of pewter or tin must be rejected, because it tends to produce elongated drops or tails.

From two to three tons are usually melted at once in the large establishments. The surface of the lead gets covered with a crust of oxide of a white spongy nature, sometimes calledcreamby the workmen, which is of use to coat over the bottom of the cullender, because without such a bed the heavy melted lead would run too rapidly through the holes for the granulating process, and would form oblong spheroids. The mounting of this filter, or lining of the cullender, is reckoned to be a nice operation by the workmen, and is regarded usually as a valuable secret.

The cullenders are hollow hemispheres of sheet iron about 10 inches in diameter, perforated with holes, which should be perfectly round and free from burs. These must be of an uniform size in each cullender; but of course a series of different cullenders with sorted holes for every different size of lead shot, must be prepared. The holes have nearly the following diameters for the annexed numbers of shot.

From No. 5. to No. 9. the diameter decreases by regular gradations, the latter being only1⁄360of an inch.

The operation is always carried on with three cullenders at a time; which are supported upon projecting grates of a kind of chafing dish made of sheet iron somewhat like a triangle. This chafing dish should be placed immediately above the fall; while at its bottom there must be a tub half filled with water for receiving the granulated lead. The cullenders are not in contact, but must be parted by burning charcoal in order to keep the lead constantly at the proper temperature, and to prevent its solidifying in the filter. The temperature of the lead bath should vary with the size of the shot; for the largest, it should be such that a bit of straw plunged into it will be scarcely browned, but for all it should be nicely regulated. The height from which the particles should be let fall varies likewise with the size of the shot; as the congelation is the more rapid, the smaller they are. With a fall of 33 yards or 100 feet, from No. 4. to No. 9. may be made; but for larger sizes, 150 feet of height will be required.

Every thing being arranged as above described, the workman puts the filter-stuff into the cullender, pressing it well against the sides. He next pours lead into it with an iron ladle, but not in too great quantity at a time, lest it should run through too fast. The shot thereby formed and found in the tub are not all equal.

The centre of the cullender being less hot affords larger shot than the sides, which are constantly surrounded with burning charcoal. Occasionally, also, the three cullenders employed together may have holes of different sizes, in which case the tub may contain shot of very various magnitudes. These are separated from each other by square sieves of different fineness, 10 inches broad and 16 inches long, their bottoms being of sheet iron pierced with holes of the same diameters as those of the cullenders. These sieves are suspended by means of two bands above boxes for receiving the shot; one sieve being usually set above another in consecutive numbers, for instance 1 and 2. The shot being put into the upper sieve, No. O. will remain in it, No. 1. will remain in the lower sieve, and No. 2. will, with all the others, pass through it into the chest below. It is obvious that by substituting sieves of successive fineness, shot of any dimension may be sorted.

In the preceding process the shot has been sorted to size; it must next be sorted to form, so as to separate all the spheroids which are not truly round, or are defective in any respect. For this purpose a board is made use of about 27 inches long and 16 broad, furnished partially with upright ledges; upon this tray a handful or two of the shot to be sorted being laid, it is inclined very slightly, and gently shaken in the horizontal direction, when the globular particles run down by one edge, into a chest set to receive them, while those of irregular forms remain on the sides of the tray, and are reserved to be re-melted.

After being sorted in this way, the shot requires still to be smoothed and polished bright. This object is effected by putting it into a small octagonal cask, through a door in its side, turning upon a horizontal iron axis, which rests in plummer boxes at its ends, and is made to revolve by any mechanical power. A certain quantity of plumbago or black lead is put in along with the shot.

LAZULITE (Eng. and Fr.;Lazulith, Germ.); is a blue vitreous mineral, crystallizing in rhomboidal dodecahedrons; spec. grav. 2·76 to 2·94; scratches glass; affords a little water by calcination; fusible into a white glass; dissolves in acids with loss of colour; solution leaves an alkaline residuum, after being treated with carbonate of ammonia, filtered, evaporated, and calcined. It consists of silica, 35·8; alumina, 34·8; soda, 23·2; sulphur, 3·1; carbonate of lime, 3·1. This beautiful stone affords the nativeultramarinepigment, which was very costly till a mode of making it artificially was lately discovered. SeeUltramarine.

LAZULITE (Eng. and Fr.;Lazulith, Germ.); is a blue vitreous mineral, crystallizing in rhomboidal dodecahedrons; spec. grav. 2·76 to 2·94; scratches glass; affords a little water by calcination; fusible into a white glass; dissolves in acids with loss of colour; solution leaves an alkaline residuum, after being treated with carbonate of ammonia, filtered, evaporated, and calcined. It consists of silica, 35·8; alumina, 34·8; soda, 23·2; sulphur, 3·1; carbonate of lime, 3·1. This beautiful stone affords the nativeultramarinepigment, which was very costly till a mode of making it artificially was lately discovered. SeeUltramarine.

LEATHER, (Cuir, Fr.; Germ.,Leder); is the skin of animals, so modified by chemical means as to have become unalterable by the external agents which tend to decompose it in its natural state. The preparation in a rude manner of this valuable substance, has been known from the most antient times, but it was not till the end of the last, and the beginning of the present century, that it began to be manufactured upon right principles, in consequence of the researches of Macbride, Deyeux, Seguin, and Davy. There are several varieties of leather; such as sole leather, boot or upper leather, shamoy leather, kid or glove leather, &c. Skins may be converted into leather either with or without their hairy coat.We shall treat first of sole and upper leathers, being the most important, and mostcostly and difficult to prepare in a proper manner. These kinds consist of organized fibrous gelatine or skin, combined with the proximate vegetable principle, tannin, and probably also some vegetable extractive. Under the articlesGallsandTannin, will be found an account of the properties of this substance, and the means of obtaining it in a state of purity. Calf leather quickly tanned by an infusion of galls, consists of 61 parts of skin, and 39 of vegetable matter in 100 by weight; by solution of catechu, it consists of 80 of skin, and 20 of vegetable matter; by infusion of Leicester willow, of 74·5 skin, and 25·5 vegetable matter; and by infusion of oak bark, of 73·2 skin, and 26·8 vegetable matter. By the slow process of tanning, continued for three months, the increase of weight upon the skin in its conversion into leather, is greatly less; the vegetable constituents being from Leicester willow only 13 per cent. of the leather, and from oak bark 15 per cent. Sole leather, however, generally contains no less than 40 per cent. of vegetable matter. In every astringent bark, the inner white part next to thealburnum, contains the largest quantity of tannin, and the middle coloured part contains most extractive matter. The outer surface or epidermis seldom furnishes either tannin or extractive matter. Young trees abound most in the white cortical layers, and are hence more productive of tannin under equal weights, than the barks of old trees. In no case is there any reason to believe that the gallic acid of astringent vegetables is absorbed in the process of making leather; hence Seguin’s theory of the agency of that substance in disoxygenating skin, falls to the ground. The different qualities of leather made with the same kind of skin, seem to depend very much upon the different quantities of extractive matter it may have absorbed. The leather made with infusion of galls, is generally harder and more liable to crack than the leather obtained from infusions of barks; and it always contains a much larger proportion of tannin, and a smaller proportion of extractive matter.When calf skin is slowly tanned in weak solutions of the bark, or of catechu, it combines with a good deal of extractive matter, and though the increase of the weight of the skin be comparatively small, yet it has become perfectly insoluble in water, forming a soft, but at the same time a strong leather. The saturated infusions of astringent barks contain much less extractive matter in proportion to their tannin, than the weak infusions; and when skin is quickly tanned in the former, it produces a worse and less durable leather than when slowly tanned in the latter. In quick tanning, a considerable quantity of vegetable extractive matter is thus lost to the manufacturer, which might have been made to enter as a useful constituent into the leather. These observations show that there is sufficient foundation for the opinion of the common workmen, concerning what is technically calledfeedingof leather, in the slow method of tanning; and though the processes of this art have been unnecessarily protracted by defective methods of steeping, and want of progressive infiltration of the astringent liquor through the skins, yet in general they appear to have arrived, in consequence of old experience, at a degree of perfection in the quality of the leather, which cannot be far exceeded by means of any theoretical suggestions which have been advanced.On the first view it may appear surprising, that in those cases of quick tanning, where extractive matter forms a certain portion of the leather, the increase of weight is less than when the skin is combined with the pure tannin; but the fact is easily accounted for, when we consider that the attraction of skin for tannin must be probably weakened by its union with extractive matter; and whether we suppose that the tannin and extractive matter enter together into combination with the matter of skin, or unite with separate portions of it, still, in either case, the primary attraction of skin for tan must be to a certain extent diminished.In examining astringent vegetables in relation to their power of making leather, it is necessary to take into account not only the quantity they may contain of thesubstanceprecipitable by gelatine, but likewise the quantity and the nature of the extractive matter; and in cases of comparison, it is essential to employ infusions of the same degree of concentration.Of all astringent substances hitherto examined, catechu is that which contains the largest proportion of tannin; and in supposing, according to the usual estimation, that from four to five pounds of common oak bark are required to produce one pound of leather, it appears, from the various synthetical experiments, that about half a pound of catechu would answer the same purpose. Mr. Purkis found, by the results of different accurate experiments, that 1 pound of catechu was equivalent to 7 or 8 of oak bark. For the common purposes of the tanner, 1 pound of it would be equivalent also to 21⁄4pounds of galls, to 71⁄2of the Leicester willow, to 11 of the bark of the Spanish chesnut, to 18 of the bark of the common elm, to 21 of the bark of the common willow, and to 3 pounds of sumach.Various menstrua have been proposed for the purpose of expediting and improving the process of tanning, among others, lime water, and solution of pearl-ash; but as these two substances form compounds with tannin which are not decomposable by gelatine, itfollows that their effects must be prejudicial. There is very little reason to suppose that any bodies will be found which, at the same time that they increase the solubility of tannin in water, will not likewise diminish its attraction for skin.In this country all tanned leather is distinguished into two kinds, calledhidesandskins; the former term being appropriated to that made from the larger animals, as bulls, buffaloes, oxen, and cows, into thick strong sole leather; and the latter to that made from calves, seals, &c., into thinner and more flexible upper leather. Sometimes the hides are brought into the market merely dried, as from Buenos-Ayres; or dried and salted, as from Bahia and Pernambuco; but the greater part are fresh from recently slaughtered animals. The heaviest ox hides are preferred for formingbuttsorbacks, which are manufactured as follows:—The washing process must be more or less elaborate, according to the state of the skins. Those that are salted and dry require to be steeped, beaten, and rubbed several times alternately, to bring them to the fresh condition.After removing the horns, the softened or recent hides are laid in a heap for two or three days, after which they are suspended on poles in a close room called a smoke-house, heated somewhat above the common temperature by a smouldering fire. In these circumstances, a slight putrefaction supervenes, which loosens the epidermis, and renders the hair easily detachable by thefleshingknife; a large two-handled implement, with a blunt edge, and bent to suit the curvature of the rounded beam of the wooden horse upon which the hide is scraped. SeeCurrying.The next step is immersion in a pit containing water impregnated with about a 1000th part of sulphuric acid. This process is calledraising, because it distends the pores, and makes the fibres swell, so as to render the skins more susceptible of the action of the tanning infusions. Forty-eight hours in general suffice for this operation, but more time may be safely taken.When the hides are found to be sufficiently raised, they are transferred to a pit, in which they are stratified with oak bark, ground by a proper mill into a coarse powder. The pit is then filled up with an infusion of oak bark called ooze, and the hides are allowed to remain in it for about a month or six weeks. By this time the tannin and extractive matter of the bark having combined intimately with the animal fibre, the pit is exhausted of its virtue, and must be renewed, by taking out the spent bark, and subjecting the skins to a fresh dose of oak bark and ooze. The hides which were placed near the top of the first pit, must be placed near the bottom of the next. In this mixture they remain, upon the old practice, about three months. The last process being repeated twice or thrice, perfectly tanned leather is the result. The hides are now removed from the pit, and hung up in a shed. In the progress of drying, which should be slow, they are compressed with a steel tool, and beaten smooth, to render them more firm and dense.Some manufacturers place on the bottom of the pit 5 or 6 inches of spent bark, over it 2 inches of fresh bark, then a skin; and so, alternately, a layer of new bark and a skin, till the pit is nearly full, reserving a small space at top for a thicker layer of bark, over which weighted boards are laid, to condense the whole down into the tanning infusion.The operation of tanning sole leather in the above way, lasts a year or a year and a half, according to the quality wanted, and the nature of the hides.A perfect leather is recognized by its section, which should have a glistening marbled appearance, without any white streaks in the middle.Crop hidesare manufactured by immersion, during three or four days, in pits containing milk of lime; in which they are occasionally moved up and down in order to expose them equally to the action of this menstruum. They are then removed, and cleared from hair and impurities, by using the fleshing knife upon the horse; after which they must be completely freed from the lime by a thorough washing. They are next plunged in pits containing a weak ooze or infusion of oak bark, from which they are successively transferred into other pits with stronger ooze; all the while being dailyhandled, that is, moved up and down in the infusion. This practice is continued for about a month or six weeks. They are now ready to be subjected to a mixture of ground oak bark and stronger ooze in other pits, to a series of which they are progressively subjected during two or three months.The hides are next put into large vats, calledlayers, in which they are smoothly stratified with more oak bark, and a stronger infusion of it. After six weeks they are taken out of these vats, and subjected to a new charge of the same materials for two months. This simple process is repeated twice or thrice, at the option of the manufacturer, till the hides are thoroughly tanned. They are then slowly dried, and condensed in the manner above described. These crop hides form the principal part of the sole leather used for home consumption in England.The process of tanningskins(as of calves, seals, &c.) is in some respects peculiar. They are left in the lime pits for about twelve days, when they are stripped of theirhair, washed in water, then immersed in a lixivium of pigeons’ dung, called agrainer, of an alkaline nature. Here they remain from eight to ten days, according to the state of the atmosphere, during which time they are frequently handled, and scraped on both sides upon a convex wooden beam. This scraping orworking, as it is termed, joined to the action of thegrainer, serves to separate the lime, oil, and glutinous matter, and to render the skin pliant, soft, and ready to imbibe the tanning principle. They are with this view transferred into pits containing a weak solution of bark, in which they undergo nearly the same treatment as described above forcrophides; but they are not commonly stratified in the layers. The time occupied in tanning them is usually limited to three months. They are then dried, and disposed of to the currier, who dresses and blackens them for the upper leathers of boots and shoes, for harness, and other purposes. The light and thin sorts of cow and horse hides are often treated like calf skins.In all the above processes, as the animal fibres on the surface of the skin absorb most readily the tanning principles, and thereby obstruct, in a certain degree, their passage into the interior fibres, especially of thick hides, it becomes an object of importance to contrive some method of overcoming that obstacle, and promoting the penetration of the tan. The first manufacturer who appears to have employed efficacious mechanical means of favouring the chemical action was Francis G. Spilsbury, who in April, 1823, obtained a patent for the following operation:—After the hides are freed from the hairs, &c. in the usual way, they are minutely inspected as to their soundness, and if any holes be found, they are carefully sewed up, so as to be water tight. Three frames of wood are provided of equal dimensions, fitted to each other, with the edges of the frames held together by screw bolts. A skin about to be tanned is now laid upon the frame, and stretched over its edges, then the second frame is to be placed upon it, so that the edges of the two frames may pinch the skin all round and hold it securely; another such skin is then stretched over the upper surface of the second frame, in like manner, and a third frame being set upon this, confines the second skin. The three frames are then pinched tightly together by a series of screw bolts, passing through ears set round their outer edges, which fix the skin in a proper manner for being operated upon by the tanning liquor.A space has been thus formed between the two skins, into which, when the frames are set upright, the infusion is introduced by means of a pipe from the cistern above, while the air is permitted to escape by a stopcock below. This cock must of course be shut whenever the bag is filled, but the one above is left open to maintain a communication with the liquor cistern, and to allow the hydrostatic pressure to force the liquor through the cutaneous pores by a slow infiltration, and thus to bring the tannin into contact with all the fibres indiscriminately. The action of this pressure is evinced by a constant perspiration on the outer surfaces of the skins.When the tanning is completed, the upper stopcock is closed, and the under is opened to run off the liquor. The frames are now removed, the bolts are unscrewed, and the pinched edges of the skins pared off; after which they are to be dried and finished in the usual manner.A modification of this ingenious and effectual process was made the subject of a patent, by William Drake, of Bedminster, tanner, in October, 1831. The hides, after the usual preparatory processes, are immersed in a weak tan liquor, and by frequent handling or turning over, receive an incipient tanning before being submitted to the infiltration plan. Two hides, as nearly of the same size and shape as possible, are placed grain to grain, when their corresponding edges are sewed firmly together all round by shoemaker’s waxed thread, so as to form a bag sufficiently tight to hold tan liquor. This bag must then be suspended by means of loops sewed to its shoulder end, upon pegs, in such a manner that it may hang within a wooden-barred rack, and be confined laterally into a book form. About an inch of the bag is left unsewed at the upper end, for the purpose of introducing a funnel through which the cold tan liquor is poured into the bag till it be full. After a certain interval which varies with the quality of the hides, the outer surface becomes moist, and drops begin to form at the bottom of the bag. These are received in a proper vessel, and when they accumulate sufficiently may be poured back into the funnel; the bag being thus, as well as by a fresh supply from above, kept constantly distended.When the hides are observed to feel hard and firm, while every part of them feels equally damp, the air of the tanning apartment having been always well ventilated, is now to be heated by proper means to a temperature gradually increasing from 70° to 150° of Fahrenheit’s scale. This heat is to be maintained till the hides become firmer and harder in all parts. When they begin to assume a black appearance in some parts, and when the tan liquor undergoes little diminution, the hides may be considered to be tanned, and the bag may be emptied by cutting a few stitches at its bottom. The outer edges being pared off, the hides are to be finished in the usual way. Duringtheir suspension within the racks, the hides should be shifted a little sideways, to prevent the formation of furrows by the bars, and to facilitate the equable action of the liquor.By this process the patentee says, that a hide may be tanned as completely in ten days as it could be in ten months by the usual method. I have seen a piece of sole leather thus rapidly tanned, and it seemed to be perfect. How it may wear, compared with that made in the old way, I cannot pretend to determine.Messrs. Knowlys and Duesbury obtained a patent in August, 1826, for accelerating the impregnation of skins with tannin, by suspending them in a close vessel, from which the air is to be extracted by an air pump, and then the tanning infusion is to be admitted. In this way, it is supposed to penetrate the hide so effectually as to tan it uniformly in a short time.About 32 years ago, a similar vacuum scheme was employed to impregnate with weaver’s paste or starch, the cops of cotton weft, for the dandy looms of Messrs. Radcliff and Ross, of Stockport.Danish leather is made by tanning lamb and kid skins with willow bark, whence it derives an agreeable smell. It is chiefly worked up into gloves.Of the tawing or dressing of skins for gloves, and white sheep leather.The operations of this art are: 1. washing the skins; 2. properly treating them with lime; 3. taking off the fleece; 4. treatment in the leather steep.A shed erected upon the side of a stream, with a cistern of water for washing the skins; wooden horses for cleaning them with the back of the fleshing knife; pincers for removing the fibres of damaged wool; a plunger for depressing the skins in the pits; a lime pit; a pole with a bag tied to the end of it; a two-handed fleshing knife; a rolling pin, from 15 to 18 inches long, thickened in the middle; such are some of the utensils of a tawing establishment. There must be provided also a table for applying the oil to the skins; a fulling mill, worked by a water-wheel or other power; a dressing peg; a press for squeezing out the fatty filth; a stove; planks mounted upon legs, for stretching the skins, &c.Fresh skins must be worked immediately after being washed, and then dried, otherwise they ferment, and contract either indelible spots, or get tender in certain points, so as to open up and tear under the tools. When received in the dry state they should be steeped in water for two days, and then treated as fresh skins. They are next strongly rubbed on the convex horse-beam with a round-edged knife, in order to make them pliant. The rough parts are removed by the fleshing knife. One workman can in this way prepare 200 skins in a day.The flesh side of each being rubbed with a cold cream of lime, the skins are piled together with the woolly side of each pair outermost, and the flesh sides in contact. They are left in this state for a few days, till it is found that the wool may be easily removed byplucking.They are next washed in running water, to separate the greater part of the lime, stripped of the wool by small spring tweezers, and then fleeced smooth by means of the rolling-pin, or sometimes by rubbing with a whetstone. Unless they be fleeced soon after the treatment with lime, they do not well admit of this operation subsequently, as they are apt to get hard.They are now steeped in the milk of lime-pit, in order to swell, soften, and cleanse them; afterwards in a weak pit of old lime-water, from which they are taken out and drained. This steeping and draining upon inclined tables, are repeated frequently during the space of 3 weeks. Only the skins of young animals, or those of inferior value are tawed. Sometimes the wool is left on, as for housings, &c.The skins, after having been well softened in the steeps, are rubbed on the outside with a whetstone set in a wooden case with two handles, in order to smooth them completely by removing any remaining filaments of wool. Lamb skins are rubbed with the pin in the direction of their breadth, to give them suppleness; but sheep skins are fulled with water alone. They are now ready for thebranning, which is done by mixing 40 lbs. of bran with 20 gallons of water, and keeping them in this fermentable mixture for three weeks—with the addition, if possible, of some old bran water. Here they must be frequently turned over, and carefully watched, as it is a delicate operation. In the course of two days in summer, and eight in winter, the skins are said to beraised, when they sink in the water. On coming out of the bran, they are ready for the white stuff; which is a bath composed of alum and sea-salt. Twelve, fourteen, and sometimes eighteen pounds of alum for 100 skins, form the basis of the bath; to which two and a half pounds of salt are added in winter, and three in summer. These ingredients are introduced into a copper with twelve gallons of water. The salt aids in the whitening action. When the solution is about to boil, three gallons of it arepassed through the cullender into a basin; in this 26 skins are worked one after another, and after draining, they are put together into the bath, and left in it for ten minutes to imbibe the salts. They are now ready to receive the paste. For 100 skins, from 13 to 15 pounds of wheat flour are used along with the yolks of 50 eggs. After having warmed the alum bath through which the skins have been passed, the flower is dusted into it, with careful stirring. The paste is well kneaded by the gradual addition of the solution, and passed through the cullender, whereby it becomes as clear as honey. To this the yolks being added, the whole is incorporated with much manual labour. The skins are worked one after another in this paste; and afterwards the whole together are left immersed in it for a day. They are now stretched and dried upon poles, in a proper apartment, during from 8 to 15 days, according to the season.The effects of the paste are to whiten the skins, to soften them, and to protect them from the hardening influence of the atmosphere, which would naturally render them brittle. They would not bear working upon thesoftening iron, but for the emulsion which has been introduced into their substance. With this view they are dipped in a tub of clear water during five or six minutes, and then spread and worked upon the board. They are increased by this means in length, in the proportion of 5 to 3. No hard points must be left in them. The whiteness is also better brought out by this operation, which is performed upon the flesh side. The softening tool is an iron plate, about one foot broad, rounded over above, mounted upon an upright beam, 30 inches high, which is fixed to the end of a strong horizontal plank, 31⁄2feet long, and 1 broad. This plank is heavily loaded, to make it immovable upon the floor. Sometimes the skins are next spread over an undressed clean skin upon the horse, and worked well with the two-handled knife, for the purpose of removing the first and second epidermis, called thefleurandarrière-fleurby the Frenchmegissiers. They are then dried while stretched by hooks and strings. When dry they are worked on thestretching iron, or they are occasionally polished with pumice stone. A delicate yellow tint is given by a composition made of two parts of whitening, and one of ochre, applied in a moistened state, and well worked in upon the grain side. After being polished with pumice, they are smoothed with a hot iron, as the laundresses do linen, whereby they acquire a degree of lustre, and are ready to be delivered to theglover.Forhousings, the best sheepskins are selected, and such as are covered with the longest and most beautiful fleece. They are steeped in water, in order to be cleaned and softened; after which they are thinned inside by the fleshing knife. They are now steeped in an old bran pit for 3 or 4 days, when they are taken out and washed. They are next subjected to the white or alum bath, the wool being carefully folded within; about 18 pounds of alum being used for 100 skins. The paste is made as for the fleeced skins, but it is merely spread upon their flesh side, and left upon them for 18 hours, so as to stiffen. They are then hung up to dry. They are next moistened by sprinkling cold water upon them, folded up, piled in a heap, and covered with boards weighted with heavy stones; in which state they remain for two days. They are next opened with a round iron upon the horse, and subjected to the stretching iron, being worked broadwise. They are dried with the fleece outermost, in the sun if possible; and are finished upon thestretcher.Calf and lamb skins with their hair and wool are worked nearly in the same manner; only the thicker the skin, the stronger the alum bath ought to be. One pound of alum and one of salt are required for a single calf skin. It is left four days in this bath, after which it is worked upon thestretcher, then fulled. When half dry the skins are opened upon the horse. In eight days of ordinary weather, they may be completely dressed. Lamb skins are sometimes steeped during eight days in a bath prepared with unbolted rye flour and cold water, in which they are daily moved about two or three times. They are then dried, stretched upon the iron, and switched upon the fleecy side.ChamoisorShamoy leather.—The skins are first washed, limed, fleeced, and branned as above described. They are nextefflowered, that is, deprived of their epidermis by a concave knife, blunt in its middle part, upon the convex horse-beam. The cutting part serves to remove all excrescences, and to equalize the thickness, while the blunt part softens and smooths. The skins of goats, does, and chamois are always treated in this way. They are next subjected to the fermenting bran steep for one or two days, in ordinary weather; but in hot weather for a much shorter time, sometimes only moving them in the sour bran liquor for a few minutes. They are lastly wrung at the peg, and subjected to the fulling mill.When the skins have been sufficiently swelled and suppled by the branning, they may receive the first oil as follows: a dozen skins being stretched upon the table, the fingers are dipped in the oil, and shaken over the skins in different places, so as to impart enough of it to imbue the whole surface slightly, by friction with the palms of the hands. It is to the outside orgrainthat the oil is applied. The skins are folded four together, so as to form balls of the size of a hog’s bladder, and thrown into the troughof the fulling mill, to the number of twelve dozen at once. Here they remain exposed to the beater for two, three, or four hours, according to their nature and the state of the weather. They are taken out, aired, oiled, and again fulled. The airing and fulling are repeated several times, with more or less frequent oilings. Any cheap animal oil is employed.After these operations, the skins require to be subjected to a fermenting process, to dilate their pores, and to facilitate their combination with the oil. This is performed in a chamber only 6 feet high, and 10 or 12 feet square. Poles are suspended horizontally a few inches from the ceiling, with hooks fixed in them to which the skins are attached. A somewhat elevated temperature is maintained, and by a stove if need be. This operation requires great skill and experience.The remainder of the epidermis is next removed by a blunt concave knife and the horse; whereby the surface is not cut, but rather forcibly scraped.The skins are now scoured to carry off the redundant oil; which is effected by a potash lye, at two degrees Baumé, heated no hotter than the hand can bear. In this they are stirred briskly, steeped for an hour, and lastly wrung at the peg. The soapy liquor thus expelled is used for inferior purposes. The clean skins after being dried, are finished first on thestretcher-iron, and then on theherseor stretching frame.Leather of Hungary.—This is manufactured by impregnating strong hides with alum, common salt, and suet; by a rapid process which is usually completed in the space of two months. The workshop is divided into two parts; 1. a shed on the side of a stream, furnished with wooden horses, fleshing knives, and other small tools. In one corner is a furnace with a boiler for dissolving the alum, a vat for immersing the hides in the solution, and several subsidiary tubs. 2. A chamber, 6 feet high, by 15 feet square, capable of being made very tight, for preserving the heat. In one corner is a copper boiler, of sufficient size to contain 170 pounds of tallow. In the middle of the stove is a square stone slab, upon which an iron grate is placed about a yard square. This is covered with charcoal. At each side of the stove are large tables, which occupy its whole length, and on which the leather is spread to receive the grease. The upper part below the ceiling is filled with poles for hanging the leather upon to be heated. The door is made to shut perfectly close.The first operations are analogous to those of tanning and tawing; the skins being washed, cut in halves, shaved, and steeped for 24 hours in the river. They are then cleaned with 5 or 6 pounds of alum, and 31⁄2pounds of salt, for a piece of hide which weighs from 70 to 80 pounds. The common salt softens the effect of the alum, attracts the moisture of the air, and preserves the suppleness of the skin. When the alum and salt are dissolved, hot water is poured upon the hides placed in a vat, and they are tramped upon by a workman walking repeatedly from one end of the vat to the other. They are then transferred into a similar vat containing some hot water, and similarly tramped upon. They are next steeped for eight days in alum water. The same round of operations is repeated a second time.The skins are now dried either in the air, or a stove room; but before being quite dry, they are doubled together, well stretched to take out the wrinkles, and piled up. When dry, they are again tramped to open the pores as well as to render the skin pliant, after which they are whitened by exposure to the sun.Tallow of inferior quality is employed for greasing the leather. With this view the hides are hung upon the poles in the close stove room, then laid upon the table, and besmeared with the tallow melted till it begins to crackle. This piece is laid on another table, is there covered with a second, similarly greased, and so forth. Three pounds of fat are commonly employed for one piece of leather.When the thirty strips, or fifteen hides passed through the grease in one operation are completed, two workmen take the first piece in their hands, and stretch it over the burning charcoal on the grate for a minute, with the flesh side to the fire. The rest are passed over the flame in like manner. Afterflaming, the pieces are successively laid on an inclined table exposed to the fire, where they are covered with a cloth. They are finally hung upon poles in the air to dry; and if the weather be warm, they are suspended only during the night, so as to favour the hardening of the grease. Instead of the alum bath, M. Curaudau has employed with advantage a steep of dilute sulphuric acid.Morocco leather.—The true morocco leather is goat skin tanned and then dyed on the side of the grain. Sheep skins are treated in the same way. The skins are steeped first in a fermenting mixture of bran water for a few days, they are then worked upon the horse, steeped in fresh water for 12 hours, and rinsed in the same. They are next drained, steeped in weak lime pits for a proper time, till the hairs can be readily detached. They are now subjected to the action of a blunt knife upon the horse-beam, in order to strip off their hair, after which they are cleansed in running water. Any excrescences must be carefully removed with the fleshing knife, and their edges neatly pared. The nextprocess is rubbing them strongly with a piece of hard schist, set in a wooden frame, in order to expel by the pressure any lime which may still adhere, and to soften the grain. They are now worked upon the horse-beam with the blunt knife, and subjected to a species of fulling, by being agitated by pegs in a revolving cask along with water. Many manufacturers prefer a weak alkaline lye, or putrified urine, to the lime bath.The skins are immersed for a night and a day, in a bran bath, in a certain state of fermentation, then worked on the horse, and salted, to preserve them till they are to be dyed.Preparatory to being dyed, each skin is sewed together edgewise, with the grain on the outside, and it is then mordanted either with a solution of tin, or with alum water. The colour is given by cochineal, of which from 10 to 12 ounces are required for a dozen of skins. The cochineal being boiled in water along with a little tartar or alum for a few minutes, forms a red liquor, which is filtered through a linen cloth, and put into a clean cask. The skins are immersed in this bath, and agitated in it for about half an hour; they are taken out and beaten, and then subjected to a second immersion in the cochineal bath. After being thus dyed, they are rinsed and tanned with Sicilian sumach, at the rate of two pounds for a skin of moderate size. This process is performed in a large tub made of white wood, in the liquor of which the skins are floated like so many bladders, and moved about by manual labour during four hours. They are then taken out, drained, and again subjected to the tanning liquor; the whole process requiring a space of twenty-four hours. The skins are now unstitched, rinsed, fulled with beetles, drained, rubbed hard with a copper blade, and lastly hung up to dry.Some manufacturers brighten the colour by applying to the surface of the skins, in a damp state, a solution of carmine in ammonia with a sponge; others apply a decoction of saffron to enliven the scarlet tint. At Paris the morocco leather is tanned by agitation with a decoction of sumach in large casks made to revolve upon a horizontal axis, like a barrel churn. White galls are sometimes substituted for sumach; a pound being used for a skin. The skins must be finally cleaned with the utmost care.The black dye is given by applying with the brush a solution of red acetate of iron to the grain side. Blue is communicated by the common cold indigo vat; violets, with a light blue followed by cochineal red; green, by Saxon blue followed by a yellow dye, usually made with the chopped roots of the barberry. This plant serves also for yellows. To dye olive, the skins are first passed through a weak solution of green vitriol, and then through the decoction of barberry root, containing a little Saxon blue. Puce colour is communicated by logwood with a little alum; which may be modified by the addition of a little Brazil wood. In all these cases, whenever the skins are dyed, they should be rinsed, wrung or rather drained, stretched upon a table, then besmeared on the grain side with a film of linseed oil applied by means of a sponge, in order to promote their glossiness when curried, and to prevent them becoming horny by too rapid drying.The last process in preparing morocco leather is the currying, which brings out the lustre, and restores the original suppleness. This operation is practised in different manners, according to the purpose the skins are to serve. For pocket-books, portfolios, and case-making in general, they must be thinned as much as possible upon the flesh side, moistened slightly, then stretched upon the table, to smooth them; dried again, moistened, and lastly passed two or three times through the cylinder press in different directions, to produce the crossing of the grain. The skins intended for the shoemaker, the saddler, the bookbinder, &c., require more pliancy, and must be differently curried. After being thinned, they are glazed with a polisher while still moist, and a grain is formed upon the flesh side with the roughened lead plate or grainer of the curriers, called in Frenchpommelle; they are glazed anew to remove the roughness produced by the pommel, and finally grained on the flesh side with a surface of cork applied under a pommel of white wood.Russia leather.—The Russians have long been possessed of a method of making a peculiar leather, called by themjucten, dyed red with the aromatic saunders wood. This article has been much sought after, on account of not being subject to mould in damp situations, being proof against insects, and even repelling them from the vicinity of its odour. The skins are freed from the hair or fleece, by steeping in an ash-lye too weak to act upon the animal fibres. They are then rinsed, fulled for a longer or shorter time according to their nature, and fermented in a proper steep, after having been washed in hot water. They are taken out at the end of a week, but they may be steeped a second time if deemed necessary, to open their pores. They are now cleaned by working them at the horse on both the flesh and grain sides.A paste is next composed, for 200 skins, of 38 pounds of rye flour, which is set toferment with leaven. This dough is worked up with a sufficient quantity of water to form a bath for the skins, in which they are soaked for 48 hours; they are then transferred into small tubs, where they remain during fifteen days, after which they are washed at the river. These operations serve to prepare the skins for absorbing the astringent juices with uniformity. A decoction of willow bark (salix cinerea, andsalix caprea) being made, the skins are immersed in the boiler whenever the temperature of the liquor is sufficiently lowered not to injure the animal fibres, and handled and pressed for half an hour. This manipulation is repeated twice daily during the period of a week. The tanning infusion is then renewed, and applied to the same skins for another week; after which being exposed to the air to dry, they are ready for being dyed, and then curried with the empyreumatic oil of the bark of the birch tree. To this substance the Russia leather owes its peculiarities. Many modes have been prescribed for preparing it; but the following is the one practised in Russia.The whitish membranous epidermis of the birch, stripped of all woody parts, is introduced into an iron boiler, which, when stuffed full, is covered tight with a vaulted iron lid, having a pipe rising from its centre. A second boiler into which this pipe passes without reaching its bottom, is set over the first, and is luted to it at the edges, after the two are bolted together. They are then inverted, so that the upper one contains the birch bark. The under half of this apparatus is sunk in the earth, the surface of the upper boiler is coated over with a clay lute, then surrounded with a fire of wood, and exposed to a red heat, till the distillation be completed. This operation, though rude in appearance, and wasteful of wood, answers its purpose perfectly well. The iron cylinder apparatus used in Britain for distilling wood vinegar, would, however, be much more convenient and productive. When the above boilers are unluted, there is found in the upper one a very light powder of charcoal, and in the under one which served as a receiver, there is an oily, brown, empyreumatic fluid, of a very strong smell, which is mixed with the tar, and which floats over a small quantity of crude vinegar. The former matter is the oil employed to impregnate the skins, by working it into the flesh side with the curriers’ tools. It is difficult to make this oil penetrate with uniformity; and the Russians do not always succeed in this process, for they turn out many skins in a spotted state. This oil is at present obtained in France by distilling the birch bark in copper stills, and condensing the products by means of a pipe plunged in cold water. About 60 per cent. of the weight of the bark is extracted.The skins imbibe this oil most equally before they are fully dry. Care must be taken not to apply too much of it, for fear of its passing through and staining the grain-side of the leather. Chevreul has investigated the chemical nature of this odoriferous substance, and finding it to be a peculiar compound, has called itbetuline.

LEATHER, (Cuir, Fr.; Germ.,Leder); is the skin of animals, so modified by chemical means as to have become unalterable by the external agents which tend to decompose it in its natural state. The preparation in a rude manner of this valuable substance, has been known from the most antient times, but it was not till the end of the last, and the beginning of the present century, that it began to be manufactured upon right principles, in consequence of the researches of Macbride, Deyeux, Seguin, and Davy. There are several varieties of leather; such as sole leather, boot or upper leather, shamoy leather, kid or glove leather, &c. Skins may be converted into leather either with or without their hairy coat.

We shall treat first of sole and upper leathers, being the most important, and mostcostly and difficult to prepare in a proper manner. These kinds consist of organized fibrous gelatine or skin, combined with the proximate vegetable principle, tannin, and probably also some vegetable extractive. Under the articlesGallsandTannin, will be found an account of the properties of this substance, and the means of obtaining it in a state of purity. Calf leather quickly tanned by an infusion of galls, consists of 61 parts of skin, and 39 of vegetable matter in 100 by weight; by solution of catechu, it consists of 80 of skin, and 20 of vegetable matter; by infusion of Leicester willow, of 74·5 skin, and 25·5 vegetable matter; and by infusion of oak bark, of 73·2 skin, and 26·8 vegetable matter. By the slow process of tanning, continued for three months, the increase of weight upon the skin in its conversion into leather, is greatly less; the vegetable constituents being from Leicester willow only 13 per cent. of the leather, and from oak bark 15 per cent. Sole leather, however, generally contains no less than 40 per cent. of vegetable matter. In every astringent bark, the inner white part next to thealburnum, contains the largest quantity of tannin, and the middle coloured part contains most extractive matter. The outer surface or epidermis seldom furnishes either tannin or extractive matter. Young trees abound most in the white cortical layers, and are hence more productive of tannin under equal weights, than the barks of old trees. In no case is there any reason to believe that the gallic acid of astringent vegetables is absorbed in the process of making leather; hence Seguin’s theory of the agency of that substance in disoxygenating skin, falls to the ground. The different qualities of leather made with the same kind of skin, seem to depend very much upon the different quantities of extractive matter it may have absorbed. The leather made with infusion of galls, is generally harder and more liable to crack than the leather obtained from infusions of barks; and it always contains a much larger proportion of tannin, and a smaller proportion of extractive matter.

When calf skin is slowly tanned in weak solutions of the bark, or of catechu, it combines with a good deal of extractive matter, and though the increase of the weight of the skin be comparatively small, yet it has become perfectly insoluble in water, forming a soft, but at the same time a strong leather. The saturated infusions of astringent barks contain much less extractive matter in proportion to their tannin, than the weak infusions; and when skin is quickly tanned in the former, it produces a worse and less durable leather than when slowly tanned in the latter. In quick tanning, a considerable quantity of vegetable extractive matter is thus lost to the manufacturer, which might have been made to enter as a useful constituent into the leather. These observations show that there is sufficient foundation for the opinion of the common workmen, concerning what is technically calledfeedingof leather, in the slow method of tanning; and though the processes of this art have been unnecessarily protracted by defective methods of steeping, and want of progressive infiltration of the astringent liquor through the skins, yet in general they appear to have arrived, in consequence of old experience, at a degree of perfection in the quality of the leather, which cannot be far exceeded by means of any theoretical suggestions which have been advanced.

On the first view it may appear surprising, that in those cases of quick tanning, where extractive matter forms a certain portion of the leather, the increase of weight is less than when the skin is combined with the pure tannin; but the fact is easily accounted for, when we consider that the attraction of skin for tannin must be probably weakened by its union with extractive matter; and whether we suppose that the tannin and extractive matter enter together into combination with the matter of skin, or unite with separate portions of it, still, in either case, the primary attraction of skin for tan must be to a certain extent diminished.

In examining astringent vegetables in relation to their power of making leather, it is necessary to take into account not only the quantity they may contain of thesubstanceprecipitable by gelatine, but likewise the quantity and the nature of the extractive matter; and in cases of comparison, it is essential to employ infusions of the same degree of concentration.

Of all astringent substances hitherto examined, catechu is that which contains the largest proportion of tannin; and in supposing, according to the usual estimation, that from four to five pounds of common oak bark are required to produce one pound of leather, it appears, from the various synthetical experiments, that about half a pound of catechu would answer the same purpose. Mr. Purkis found, by the results of different accurate experiments, that 1 pound of catechu was equivalent to 7 or 8 of oak bark. For the common purposes of the tanner, 1 pound of it would be equivalent also to 21⁄4pounds of galls, to 71⁄2of the Leicester willow, to 11 of the bark of the Spanish chesnut, to 18 of the bark of the common elm, to 21 of the bark of the common willow, and to 3 pounds of sumach.

Various menstrua have been proposed for the purpose of expediting and improving the process of tanning, among others, lime water, and solution of pearl-ash; but as these two substances form compounds with tannin which are not decomposable by gelatine, itfollows that their effects must be prejudicial. There is very little reason to suppose that any bodies will be found which, at the same time that they increase the solubility of tannin in water, will not likewise diminish its attraction for skin.

In this country all tanned leather is distinguished into two kinds, calledhidesandskins; the former term being appropriated to that made from the larger animals, as bulls, buffaloes, oxen, and cows, into thick strong sole leather; and the latter to that made from calves, seals, &c., into thinner and more flexible upper leather. Sometimes the hides are brought into the market merely dried, as from Buenos-Ayres; or dried and salted, as from Bahia and Pernambuco; but the greater part are fresh from recently slaughtered animals. The heaviest ox hides are preferred for formingbuttsorbacks, which are manufactured as follows:—

The washing process must be more or less elaborate, according to the state of the skins. Those that are salted and dry require to be steeped, beaten, and rubbed several times alternately, to bring them to the fresh condition.

After removing the horns, the softened or recent hides are laid in a heap for two or three days, after which they are suspended on poles in a close room called a smoke-house, heated somewhat above the common temperature by a smouldering fire. In these circumstances, a slight putrefaction supervenes, which loosens the epidermis, and renders the hair easily detachable by thefleshingknife; a large two-handled implement, with a blunt edge, and bent to suit the curvature of the rounded beam of the wooden horse upon which the hide is scraped. SeeCurrying.

The next step is immersion in a pit containing water impregnated with about a 1000th part of sulphuric acid. This process is calledraising, because it distends the pores, and makes the fibres swell, so as to render the skins more susceptible of the action of the tanning infusions. Forty-eight hours in general suffice for this operation, but more time may be safely taken.

When the hides are found to be sufficiently raised, they are transferred to a pit, in which they are stratified with oak bark, ground by a proper mill into a coarse powder. The pit is then filled up with an infusion of oak bark called ooze, and the hides are allowed to remain in it for about a month or six weeks. By this time the tannin and extractive matter of the bark having combined intimately with the animal fibre, the pit is exhausted of its virtue, and must be renewed, by taking out the spent bark, and subjecting the skins to a fresh dose of oak bark and ooze. The hides which were placed near the top of the first pit, must be placed near the bottom of the next. In this mixture they remain, upon the old practice, about three months. The last process being repeated twice or thrice, perfectly tanned leather is the result. The hides are now removed from the pit, and hung up in a shed. In the progress of drying, which should be slow, they are compressed with a steel tool, and beaten smooth, to render them more firm and dense.

Some manufacturers place on the bottom of the pit 5 or 6 inches of spent bark, over it 2 inches of fresh bark, then a skin; and so, alternately, a layer of new bark and a skin, till the pit is nearly full, reserving a small space at top for a thicker layer of bark, over which weighted boards are laid, to condense the whole down into the tanning infusion.

The operation of tanning sole leather in the above way, lasts a year or a year and a half, according to the quality wanted, and the nature of the hides.

A perfect leather is recognized by its section, which should have a glistening marbled appearance, without any white streaks in the middle.

Crop hidesare manufactured by immersion, during three or four days, in pits containing milk of lime; in which they are occasionally moved up and down in order to expose them equally to the action of this menstruum. They are then removed, and cleared from hair and impurities, by using the fleshing knife upon the horse; after which they must be completely freed from the lime by a thorough washing. They are next plunged in pits containing a weak ooze or infusion of oak bark, from which they are successively transferred into other pits with stronger ooze; all the while being dailyhandled, that is, moved up and down in the infusion. This practice is continued for about a month or six weeks. They are now ready to be subjected to a mixture of ground oak bark and stronger ooze in other pits, to a series of which they are progressively subjected during two or three months.

The hides are next put into large vats, calledlayers, in which they are smoothly stratified with more oak bark, and a stronger infusion of it. After six weeks they are taken out of these vats, and subjected to a new charge of the same materials for two months. This simple process is repeated twice or thrice, at the option of the manufacturer, till the hides are thoroughly tanned. They are then slowly dried, and condensed in the manner above described. These crop hides form the principal part of the sole leather used for home consumption in England.

The process of tanningskins(as of calves, seals, &c.) is in some respects peculiar. They are left in the lime pits for about twelve days, when they are stripped of theirhair, washed in water, then immersed in a lixivium of pigeons’ dung, called agrainer, of an alkaline nature. Here they remain from eight to ten days, according to the state of the atmosphere, during which time they are frequently handled, and scraped on both sides upon a convex wooden beam. This scraping orworking, as it is termed, joined to the action of thegrainer, serves to separate the lime, oil, and glutinous matter, and to render the skin pliant, soft, and ready to imbibe the tanning principle. They are with this view transferred into pits containing a weak solution of bark, in which they undergo nearly the same treatment as described above forcrophides; but they are not commonly stratified in the layers. The time occupied in tanning them is usually limited to three months. They are then dried, and disposed of to the currier, who dresses and blackens them for the upper leathers of boots and shoes, for harness, and other purposes. The light and thin sorts of cow and horse hides are often treated like calf skins.

In all the above processes, as the animal fibres on the surface of the skin absorb most readily the tanning principles, and thereby obstruct, in a certain degree, their passage into the interior fibres, especially of thick hides, it becomes an object of importance to contrive some method of overcoming that obstacle, and promoting the penetration of the tan. The first manufacturer who appears to have employed efficacious mechanical means of favouring the chemical action was Francis G. Spilsbury, who in April, 1823, obtained a patent for the following operation:—After the hides are freed from the hairs, &c. in the usual way, they are minutely inspected as to their soundness, and if any holes be found, they are carefully sewed up, so as to be water tight. Three frames of wood are provided of equal dimensions, fitted to each other, with the edges of the frames held together by screw bolts. A skin about to be tanned is now laid upon the frame, and stretched over its edges, then the second frame is to be placed upon it, so that the edges of the two frames may pinch the skin all round and hold it securely; another such skin is then stretched over the upper surface of the second frame, in like manner, and a third frame being set upon this, confines the second skin. The three frames are then pinched tightly together by a series of screw bolts, passing through ears set round their outer edges, which fix the skin in a proper manner for being operated upon by the tanning liquor.

A space has been thus formed between the two skins, into which, when the frames are set upright, the infusion is introduced by means of a pipe from the cistern above, while the air is permitted to escape by a stopcock below. This cock must of course be shut whenever the bag is filled, but the one above is left open to maintain a communication with the liquor cistern, and to allow the hydrostatic pressure to force the liquor through the cutaneous pores by a slow infiltration, and thus to bring the tannin into contact with all the fibres indiscriminately. The action of this pressure is evinced by a constant perspiration on the outer surfaces of the skins.

When the tanning is completed, the upper stopcock is closed, and the under is opened to run off the liquor. The frames are now removed, the bolts are unscrewed, and the pinched edges of the skins pared off; after which they are to be dried and finished in the usual manner.

A modification of this ingenious and effectual process was made the subject of a patent, by William Drake, of Bedminster, tanner, in October, 1831. The hides, after the usual preparatory processes, are immersed in a weak tan liquor, and by frequent handling or turning over, receive an incipient tanning before being submitted to the infiltration plan. Two hides, as nearly of the same size and shape as possible, are placed grain to grain, when their corresponding edges are sewed firmly together all round by shoemaker’s waxed thread, so as to form a bag sufficiently tight to hold tan liquor. This bag must then be suspended by means of loops sewed to its shoulder end, upon pegs, in such a manner that it may hang within a wooden-barred rack, and be confined laterally into a book form. About an inch of the bag is left unsewed at the upper end, for the purpose of introducing a funnel through which the cold tan liquor is poured into the bag till it be full. After a certain interval which varies with the quality of the hides, the outer surface becomes moist, and drops begin to form at the bottom of the bag. These are received in a proper vessel, and when they accumulate sufficiently may be poured back into the funnel; the bag being thus, as well as by a fresh supply from above, kept constantly distended.

When the hides are observed to feel hard and firm, while every part of them feels equally damp, the air of the tanning apartment having been always well ventilated, is now to be heated by proper means to a temperature gradually increasing from 70° to 150° of Fahrenheit’s scale. This heat is to be maintained till the hides become firmer and harder in all parts. When they begin to assume a black appearance in some parts, and when the tan liquor undergoes little diminution, the hides may be considered to be tanned, and the bag may be emptied by cutting a few stitches at its bottom. The outer edges being pared off, the hides are to be finished in the usual way. Duringtheir suspension within the racks, the hides should be shifted a little sideways, to prevent the formation of furrows by the bars, and to facilitate the equable action of the liquor.

By this process the patentee says, that a hide may be tanned as completely in ten days as it could be in ten months by the usual method. I have seen a piece of sole leather thus rapidly tanned, and it seemed to be perfect. How it may wear, compared with that made in the old way, I cannot pretend to determine.

Messrs. Knowlys and Duesbury obtained a patent in August, 1826, for accelerating the impregnation of skins with tannin, by suspending them in a close vessel, from which the air is to be extracted by an air pump, and then the tanning infusion is to be admitted. In this way, it is supposed to penetrate the hide so effectually as to tan it uniformly in a short time.

About 32 years ago, a similar vacuum scheme was employed to impregnate with weaver’s paste or starch, the cops of cotton weft, for the dandy looms of Messrs. Radcliff and Ross, of Stockport.

Danish leather is made by tanning lamb and kid skins with willow bark, whence it derives an agreeable smell. It is chiefly worked up into gloves.

Of the tawing or dressing of skins for gloves, and white sheep leather.

The operations of this art are: 1. washing the skins; 2. properly treating them with lime; 3. taking off the fleece; 4. treatment in the leather steep.

A shed erected upon the side of a stream, with a cistern of water for washing the skins; wooden horses for cleaning them with the back of the fleshing knife; pincers for removing the fibres of damaged wool; a plunger for depressing the skins in the pits; a lime pit; a pole with a bag tied to the end of it; a two-handed fleshing knife; a rolling pin, from 15 to 18 inches long, thickened in the middle; such are some of the utensils of a tawing establishment. There must be provided also a table for applying the oil to the skins; a fulling mill, worked by a water-wheel or other power; a dressing peg; a press for squeezing out the fatty filth; a stove; planks mounted upon legs, for stretching the skins, &c.

Fresh skins must be worked immediately after being washed, and then dried, otherwise they ferment, and contract either indelible spots, or get tender in certain points, so as to open up and tear under the tools. When received in the dry state they should be steeped in water for two days, and then treated as fresh skins. They are next strongly rubbed on the convex horse-beam with a round-edged knife, in order to make them pliant. The rough parts are removed by the fleshing knife. One workman can in this way prepare 200 skins in a day.

The flesh side of each being rubbed with a cold cream of lime, the skins are piled together with the woolly side of each pair outermost, and the flesh sides in contact. They are left in this state for a few days, till it is found that the wool may be easily removed byplucking.

They are next washed in running water, to separate the greater part of the lime, stripped of the wool by small spring tweezers, and then fleeced smooth by means of the rolling-pin, or sometimes by rubbing with a whetstone. Unless they be fleeced soon after the treatment with lime, they do not well admit of this operation subsequently, as they are apt to get hard.

They are now steeped in the milk of lime-pit, in order to swell, soften, and cleanse them; afterwards in a weak pit of old lime-water, from which they are taken out and drained. This steeping and draining upon inclined tables, are repeated frequently during the space of 3 weeks. Only the skins of young animals, or those of inferior value are tawed. Sometimes the wool is left on, as for housings, &c.

The skins, after having been well softened in the steeps, are rubbed on the outside with a whetstone set in a wooden case with two handles, in order to smooth them completely by removing any remaining filaments of wool. Lamb skins are rubbed with the pin in the direction of their breadth, to give them suppleness; but sheep skins are fulled with water alone. They are now ready for thebranning, which is done by mixing 40 lbs. of bran with 20 gallons of water, and keeping them in this fermentable mixture for three weeks—with the addition, if possible, of some old bran water. Here they must be frequently turned over, and carefully watched, as it is a delicate operation. In the course of two days in summer, and eight in winter, the skins are said to beraised, when they sink in the water. On coming out of the bran, they are ready for the white stuff; which is a bath composed of alum and sea-salt. Twelve, fourteen, and sometimes eighteen pounds of alum for 100 skins, form the basis of the bath; to which two and a half pounds of salt are added in winter, and three in summer. These ingredients are introduced into a copper with twelve gallons of water. The salt aids in the whitening action. When the solution is about to boil, three gallons of it arepassed through the cullender into a basin; in this 26 skins are worked one after another, and after draining, they are put together into the bath, and left in it for ten minutes to imbibe the salts. They are now ready to receive the paste. For 100 skins, from 13 to 15 pounds of wheat flour are used along with the yolks of 50 eggs. After having warmed the alum bath through which the skins have been passed, the flower is dusted into it, with careful stirring. The paste is well kneaded by the gradual addition of the solution, and passed through the cullender, whereby it becomes as clear as honey. To this the yolks being added, the whole is incorporated with much manual labour. The skins are worked one after another in this paste; and afterwards the whole together are left immersed in it for a day. They are now stretched and dried upon poles, in a proper apartment, during from 8 to 15 days, according to the season.

The effects of the paste are to whiten the skins, to soften them, and to protect them from the hardening influence of the atmosphere, which would naturally render them brittle. They would not bear working upon thesoftening iron, but for the emulsion which has been introduced into their substance. With this view they are dipped in a tub of clear water during five or six minutes, and then spread and worked upon the board. They are increased by this means in length, in the proportion of 5 to 3. No hard points must be left in them. The whiteness is also better brought out by this operation, which is performed upon the flesh side. The softening tool is an iron plate, about one foot broad, rounded over above, mounted upon an upright beam, 30 inches high, which is fixed to the end of a strong horizontal plank, 31⁄2feet long, and 1 broad. This plank is heavily loaded, to make it immovable upon the floor. Sometimes the skins are next spread over an undressed clean skin upon the horse, and worked well with the two-handled knife, for the purpose of removing the first and second epidermis, called thefleurandarrière-fleurby the Frenchmegissiers. They are then dried while stretched by hooks and strings. When dry they are worked on thestretching iron, or they are occasionally polished with pumice stone. A delicate yellow tint is given by a composition made of two parts of whitening, and one of ochre, applied in a moistened state, and well worked in upon the grain side. After being polished with pumice, they are smoothed with a hot iron, as the laundresses do linen, whereby they acquire a degree of lustre, and are ready to be delivered to theglover.

Forhousings, the best sheepskins are selected, and such as are covered with the longest and most beautiful fleece. They are steeped in water, in order to be cleaned and softened; after which they are thinned inside by the fleshing knife. They are now steeped in an old bran pit for 3 or 4 days, when they are taken out and washed. They are next subjected to the white or alum bath, the wool being carefully folded within; about 18 pounds of alum being used for 100 skins. The paste is made as for the fleeced skins, but it is merely spread upon their flesh side, and left upon them for 18 hours, so as to stiffen. They are then hung up to dry. They are next moistened by sprinkling cold water upon them, folded up, piled in a heap, and covered with boards weighted with heavy stones; in which state they remain for two days. They are next opened with a round iron upon the horse, and subjected to the stretching iron, being worked broadwise. They are dried with the fleece outermost, in the sun if possible; and are finished upon thestretcher.

Calf and lamb skins with their hair and wool are worked nearly in the same manner; only the thicker the skin, the stronger the alum bath ought to be. One pound of alum and one of salt are required for a single calf skin. It is left four days in this bath, after which it is worked upon thestretcher, then fulled. When half dry the skins are opened upon the horse. In eight days of ordinary weather, they may be completely dressed. Lamb skins are sometimes steeped during eight days in a bath prepared with unbolted rye flour and cold water, in which they are daily moved about two or three times. They are then dried, stretched upon the iron, and switched upon the fleecy side.

ChamoisorShamoy leather.—The skins are first washed, limed, fleeced, and branned as above described. They are nextefflowered, that is, deprived of their epidermis by a concave knife, blunt in its middle part, upon the convex horse-beam. The cutting part serves to remove all excrescences, and to equalize the thickness, while the blunt part softens and smooths. The skins of goats, does, and chamois are always treated in this way. They are next subjected to the fermenting bran steep for one or two days, in ordinary weather; but in hot weather for a much shorter time, sometimes only moving them in the sour bran liquor for a few minutes. They are lastly wrung at the peg, and subjected to the fulling mill.

When the skins have been sufficiently swelled and suppled by the branning, they may receive the first oil as follows: a dozen skins being stretched upon the table, the fingers are dipped in the oil, and shaken over the skins in different places, so as to impart enough of it to imbue the whole surface slightly, by friction with the palms of the hands. It is to the outside orgrainthat the oil is applied. The skins are folded four together, so as to form balls of the size of a hog’s bladder, and thrown into the troughof the fulling mill, to the number of twelve dozen at once. Here they remain exposed to the beater for two, three, or four hours, according to their nature and the state of the weather. They are taken out, aired, oiled, and again fulled. The airing and fulling are repeated several times, with more or less frequent oilings. Any cheap animal oil is employed.

After these operations, the skins require to be subjected to a fermenting process, to dilate their pores, and to facilitate their combination with the oil. This is performed in a chamber only 6 feet high, and 10 or 12 feet square. Poles are suspended horizontally a few inches from the ceiling, with hooks fixed in them to which the skins are attached. A somewhat elevated temperature is maintained, and by a stove if need be. This operation requires great skill and experience.

The remainder of the epidermis is next removed by a blunt concave knife and the horse; whereby the surface is not cut, but rather forcibly scraped.

The skins are now scoured to carry off the redundant oil; which is effected by a potash lye, at two degrees Baumé, heated no hotter than the hand can bear. In this they are stirred briskly, steeped for an hour, and lastly wrung at the peg. The soapy liquor thus expelled is used for inferior purposes. The clean skins after being dried, are finished first on thestretcher-iron, and then on theherseor stretching frame.

Leather of Hungary.—This is manufactured by impregnating strong hides with alum, common salt, and suet; by a rapid process which is usually completed in the space of two months. The workshop is divided into two parts; 1. a shed on the side of a stream, furnished with wooden horses, fleshing knives, and other small tools. In one corner is a furnace with a boiler for dissolving the alum, a vat for immersing the hides in the solution, and several subsidiary tubs. 2. A chamber, 6 feet high, by 15 feet square, capable of being made very tight, for preserving the heat. In one corner is a copper boiler, of sufficient size to contain 170 pounds of tallow. In the middle of the stove is a square stone slab, upon which an iron grate is placed about a yard square. This is covered with charcoal. At each side of the stove are large tables, which occupy its whole length, and on which the leather is spread to receive the grease. The upper part below the ceiling is filled with poles for hanging the leather upon to be heated. The door is made to shut perfectly close.

The first operations are analogous to those of tanning and tawing; the skins being washed, cut in halves, shaved, and steeped for 24 hours in the river. They are then cleaned with 5 or 6 pounds of alum, and 31⁄2pounds of salt, for a piece of hide which weighs from 70 to 80 pounds. The common salt softens the effect of the alum, attracts the moisture of the air, and preserves the suppleness of the skin. When the alum and salt are dissolved, hot water is poured upon the hides placed in a vat, and they are tramped upon by a workman walking repeatedly from one end of the vat to the other. They are then transferred into a similar vat containing some hot water, and similarly tramped upon. They are next steeped for eight days in alum water. The same round of operations is repeated a second time.

The skins are now dried either in the air, or a stove room; but before being quite dry, they are doubled together, well stretched to take out the wrinkles, and piled up. When dry, they are again tramped to open the pores as well as to render the skin pliant, after which they are whitened by exposure to the sun.

Tallow of inferior quality is employed for greasing the leather. With this view the hides are hung upon the poles in the close stove room, then laid upon the table, and besmeared with the tallow melted till it begins to crackle. This piece is laid on another table, is there covered with a second, similarly greased, and so forth. Three pounds of fat are commonly employed for one piece of leather.

When the thirty strips, or fifteen hides passed through the grease in one operation are completed, two workmen take the first piece in their hands, and stretch it over the burning charcoal on the grate for a minute, with the flesh side to the fire. The rest are passed over the flame in like manner. Afterflaming, the pieces are successively laid on an inclined table exposed to the fire, where they are covered with a cloth. They are finally hung upon poles in the air to dry; and if the weather be warm, they are suspended only during the night, so as to favour the hardening of the grease. Instead of the alum bath, M. Curaudau has employed with advantage a steep of dilute sulphuric acid.

Morocco leather.—The true morocco leather is goat skin tanned and then dyed on the side of the grain. Sheep skins are treated in the same way. The skins are steeped first in a fermenting mixture of bran water for a few days, they are then worked upon the horse, steeped in fresh water for 12 hours, and rinsed in the same. They are next drained, steeped in weak lime pits for a proper time, till the hairs can be readily detached. They are now subjected to the action of a blunt knife upon the horse-beam, in order to strip off their hair, after which they are cleansed in running water. Any excrescences must be carefully removed with the fleshing knife, and their edges neatly pared. The nextprocess is rubbing them strongly with a piece of hard schist, set in a wooden frame, in order to expel by the pressure any lime which may still adhere, and to soften the grain. They are now worked upon the horse-beam with the blunt knife, and subjected to a species of fulling, by being agitated by pegs in a revolving cask along with water. Many manufacturers prefer a weak alkaline lye, or putrified urine, to the lime bath.

The skins are immersed for a night and a day, in a bran bath, in a certain state of fermentation, then worked on the horse, and salted, to preserve them till they are to be dyed.

Preparatory to being dyed, each skin is sewed together edgewise, with the grain on the outside, and it is then mordanted either with a solution of tin, or with alum water. The colour is given by cochineal, of which from 10 to 12 ounces are required for a dozen of skins. The cochineal being boiled in water along with a little tartar or alum for a few minutes, forms a red liquor, which is filtered through a linen cloth, and put into a clean cask. The skins are immersed in this bath, and agitated in it for about half an hour; they are taken out and beaten, and then subjected to a second immersion in the cochineal bath. After being thus dyed, they are rinsed and tanned with Sicilian sumach, at the rate of two pounds for a skin of moderate size. This process is performed in a large tub made of white wood, in the liquor of which the skins are floated like so many bladders, and moved about by manual labour during four hours. They are then taken out, drained, and again subjected to the tanning liquor; the whole process requiring a space of twenty-four hours. The skins are now unstitched, rinsed, fulled with beetles, drained, rubbed hard with a copper blade, and lastly hung up to dry.

Some manufacturers brighten the colour by applying to the surface of the skins, in a damp state, a solution of carmine in ammonia with a sponge; others apply a decoction of saffron to enliven the scarlet tint. At Paris the morocco leather is tanned by agitation with a decoction of sumach in large casks made to revolve upon a horizontal axis, like a barrel churn. White galls are sometimes substituted for sumach; a pound being used for a skin. The skins must be finally cleaned with the utmost care.

The black dye is given by applying with the brush a solution of red acetate of iron to the grain side. Blue is communicated by the common cold indigo vat; violets, with a light blue followed by cochineal red; green, by Saxon blue followed by a yellow dye, usually made with the chopped roots of the barberry. This plant serves also for yellows. To dye olive, the skins are first passed through a weak solution of green vitriol, and then through the decoction of barberry root, containing a little Saxon blue. Puce colour is communicated by logwood with a little alum; which may be modified by the addition of a little Brazil wood. In all these cases, whenever the skins are dyed, they should be rinsed, wrung or rather drained, stretched upon a table, then besmeared on the grain side with a film of linseed oil applied by means of a sponge, in order to promote their glossiness when curried, and to prevent them becoming horny by too rapid drying.

The last process in preparing morocco leather is the currying, which brings out the lustre, and restores the original suppleness. This operation is practised in different manners, according to the purpose the skins are to serve. For pocket-books, portfolios, and case-making in general, they must be thinned as much as possible upon the flesh side, moistened slightly, then stretched upon the table, to smooth them; dried again, moistened, and lastly passed two or three times through the cylinder press in different directions, to produce the crossing of the grain. The skins intended for the shoemaker, the saddler, the bookbinder, &c., require more pliancy, and must be differently curried. After being thinned, they are glazed with a polisher while still moist, and a grain is formed upon the flesh side with the roughened lead plate or grainer of the curriers, called in Frenchpommelle; they are glazed anew to remove the roughness produced by the pommel, and finally grained on the flesh side with a surface of cork applied under a pommel of white wood.

Russia leather.—The Russians have long been possessed of a method of making a peculiar leather, called by themjucten, dyed red with the aromatic saunders wood. This article has been much sought after, on account of not being subject to mould in damp situations, being proof against insects, and even repelling them from the vicinity of its odour. The skins are freed from the hair or fleece, by steeping in an ash-lye too weak to act upon the animal fibres. They are then rinsed, fulled for a longer or shorter time according to their nature, and fermented in a proper steep, after having been washed in hot water. They are taken out at the end of a week, but they may be steeped a second time if deemed necessary, to open their pores. They are now cleaned by working them at the horse on both the flesh and grain sides.

A paste is next composed, for 200 skins, of 38 pounds of rye flour, which is set toferment with leaven. This dough is worked up with a sufficient quantity of water to form a bath for the skins, in which they are soaked for 48 hours; they are then transferred into small tubs, where they remain during fifteen days, after which they are washed at the river. These operations serve to prepare the skins for absorbing the astringent juices with uniformity. A decoction of willow bark (salix cinerea, andsalix caprea) being made, the skins are immersed in the boiler whenever the temperature of the liquor is sufficiently lowered not to injure the animal fibres, and handled and pressed for half an hour. This manipulation is repeated twice daily during the period of a week. The tanning infusion is then renewed, and applied to the same skins for another week; after which being exposed to the air to dry, they are ready for being dyed, and then curried with the empyreumatic oil of the bark of the birch tree. To this substance the Russia leather owes its peculiarities. Many modes have been prescribed for preparing it; but the following is the one practised in Russia.

The whitish membranous epidermis of the birch, stripped of all woody parts, is introduced into an iron boiler, which, when stuffed full, is covered tight with a vaulted iron lid, having a pipe rising from its centre. A second boiler into which this pipe passes without reaching its bottom, is set over the first, and is luted to it at the edges, after the two are bolted together. They are then inverted, so that the upper one contains the birch bark. The under half of this apparatus is sunk in the earth, the surface of the upper boiler is coated over with a clay lute, then surrounded with a fire of wood, and exposed to a red heat, till the distillation be completed. This operation, though rude in appearance, and wasteful of wood, answers its purpose perfectly well. The iron cylinder apparatus used in Britain for distilling wood vinegar, would, however, be much more convenient and productive. When the above boilers are unluted, there is found in the upper one a very light powder of charcoal, and in the under one which served as a receiver, there is an oily, brown, empyreumatic fluid, of a very strong smell, which is mixed with the tar, and which floats over a small quantity of crude vinegar. The former matter is the oil employed to impregnate the skins, by working it into the flesh side with the curriers’ tools. It is difficult to make this oil penetrate with uniformity; and the Russians do not always succeed in this process, for they turn out many skins in a spotted state. This oil is at present obtained in France by distilling the birch bark in copper stills, and condensing the products by means of a pipe plunged in cold water. About 60 per cent. of the weight of the bark is extracted.

The skins imbibe this oil most equally before they are fully dry. Care must be taken not to apply too much of it, for fear of its passing through and staining the grain-side of the leather. Chevreul has investigated the chemical nature of this odoriferous substance, and finding it to be a peculiar compound, has called itbetuline.


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