When walking in public, the female rarely takes the arm of a gentleman, except it be night. This seems to us an unsocial fashion. At dark, however, the restriction ceases, and ladies will then honour us by accepting our arm: with married persons this is more common. The Englishman and his wife, in spite of Spanish modes, are seen trotting comfortably along the Alameda, on a Sunday, arm-in-arm, as if at home.
Neither is it the fashion for gentlemen to escort the ladies, but to the theatre, or public places: their visits and shopping are in company only with their own sex. If a fair lady should wave this rule, and allow us to proceed by their side for a few streets, it would be the height of vulgarity to offer the arm. In England we have other notions of gentility.
At the ball room, the females sit together, when not engaged in dancing. During this pause, some gentleman will, with hesitating steps, approach them, and solicit a lady to waltz, or dance a minuet with him.
The Spaniards pride themselves upon the delicacy and respect with which they treat the females; and though there are many Spanish customs which I think “more honoured in the breach than the observance,” this is one, I trust, will last for ever.
The Buenos Ayreans are passionately fond of dancing. Their evening hours are given to this pastime: in their houses, daughters, mothers, nay, grandmothers, will enjoy it with all the spirit of youth. To me it is the most gratifying sight—a proof that age is not always accompanied by moroseness. I have been delighted to see father, mother, daughters, and sons, dancing with that apparent happiness, as if life had no other object but enjoyment.
Walking in the environs of the town, one evening, a family dance attracted my attention; and I looked through the windows. The ladies saw me, and the master of the house came out, entreating me to enter, with the Spanish compliment, “that his house and family were entirely at my service.” He seemed disappointed at my declining the invitation. These evening family dances are very fascinating.
It is said, a Frenchman, from his gaiety, never gets old; the observation applies with equal truth to this people. In our peculiar England, education, climate, and the state of society, render its inhabitants more thoughtful and care-worn: we regard as frivolity what other nations consider the essentials of existence; yet, in general, we are not the gloomy people foreigners would paint us. We can love, and hate, too, with all or more of the fervour ascribed to warmer climes.
Of the dances, some are pretty. The steps of the Spanish dances have a great sameness. The ladies appear graceful; but, indeed, when is it they do not?
Thecielito, or little heaven, is opened by the parties chaunting a part of a song all the time in movement, and smacking their fingers together; it then proceeds to the figure.
Thecontre-danseis involved in intricacies and positions rather difficult to a stranger; twisting the arms, and running in and out, like the game of Thread-my-needle, or,excepting the tumbling part, the comic dance in Mother Goose. The English contre-danse has more life and variety both in music and figure.
Waltzing is a favourite: they have not read the lectures of our moralists upon it, but indulge in the mazes of this luxurious dance.
The minuet dance here is, I think, tame and ungraceful.
The piano forte is the favourite musical instrument; and every well-educated young lady is supposed to possess some knowledge of it. I have heard them perform with great taste and skill. The young and interesting daughter of Don Cornelius Saavedra, Doña Dominga, I thought, excelled; and, with instruction, would be a proficient. This young lady, with a countenance just “budding into beauty,” has talents, which, if properly cultivated, will adorn society. Her father, Don Cornelius, was the first Director of the Province after the Revolution, and one of the old and respectable families. His manners are very pleasing: in person, he much resembles a British general officer. Like many others, he has forsaken the sword for the ploughshare, and resides upon his estate, ninety miles from town, on the banks of the Parana.
A good piano will sell for 1000 dollars: the English, in this likewise, take the lead, and those of Clementi, Stodart, &c. are found in many houses; Miss Saavedra has a fine-toned one of Clementi’s. The French and German pianos do not readily sell.
Male teachers of music (and, on mentioning these, the remark of Anastasius occurs to me) find good employment in this city, where all are so musical. An English lady, Miss Robinson, gives lessons on this heavenly science.
The Consulado musical school-rooms, with the young ladies warbling there on a morning, repeatedly attract the attention of the passing pedestrian. At one o’clock, attended by their mammas and slaves, with music-book under arm, those little syrens trudge home. On one ortwo occasions, there has been a public trial of musical skill, a sort of show-off before their relations and friends.
A musical subscription society, called The Philharmonics, has been established, and the most respectable natives and foreigners are subscribers. The vocal and instrumental performers from the theatre attend there. It is a superior affair, and held in a spacious sala of what was formerly a prison—the “Coona:” Orpheus has driven away the ministers of justice.
Using an English phrase, the mothers of Buenos Ayres keep “a sharp look-out” after their daughters, attending them to public places, and in the streets. Should the mother, by any chance, be absent, the care is probably delegated to a slave or servant, who may have their secret orders whispered to them, as well as other trusty centinels. But cannot the slave be bribed? If report speaks true, they are so; and the ardent lover has been ready to embrace the black messenger that has conveyed to him tidings from a beloved mistress.
Young ladies before marriage are, by some mothers, watched with great strictness, not unlike austerity. I fear, females here, as well as in other countries, have often given their hands without their hearts. “Why did you marry?” said a friend of mine to a lady who seemed unhappy. “To gain my liberty,” she eagerly exclaimed, “as many others have done before me.”
Marriage with the Buenos Ayres female takes place at an early age, frequently at thirteen and fourteen. Certain it is, they ripen into womanhood much sooner than those of our clime; and their beauties more quickly fade. An English female at forty looks as young as a Buenos Ayrean at thirty. How many charming and attractive women we find in England at the age of forty; and though I cannot quite agree with our gracious sovereign in his admiration of “fair, fat, and forty,” yet I have known, at home, some ladies at that age with charms and acquirements sufficient to alarm asensitive heart. In Buenos Ayres I have likewise seen females whose beauty seems to improve as years advance; but this is a rare occurrence.
In marriage, the custom of all the family living together seems strange to English ideas, and we cannot help picturing petty jealousies and quarrels amongst such a groupe. Custom, however, and their natural happy temper, free from the corroding cares of more populous countries, prevent these. I cannot help admiring their happiness in this respect, and I trust they may long enjoy it. I know the misery I should feel, were I a father, to see a beloved child depart for ever from the parental roof.
Married females still preserve their maiden name, conjoined with that of their husband’s. The children by such marriage bear the surname of the father. The saint’s-day on which they may be born provides them with a Christian name; and, as the Romish church has a saint for every day in the calendar, the difficulties that the Rev. Mr. Shandy had to encounter are avoided.
In the lottery of names, people of all classes take their chance. It is rather droll to hear the black girls addressing each other by the names of Eugenia, Marcela, Florencia, &c. Some fair ladies bear the pretty romantic names of Rosaria, Irené, Magdalena, Victoria, Martina, Fortunata, Celestina, Adriana, &c. whilst others, not so fortunate in their time of coming into the world, are obliged to be content with the ordinary ones of Juana, Tomasa, &c. But what is there in a name? a rose would smell as sweet under any other name.
John is unquestionably the most vulgar of all names; it is worse than Tom: every body applies it, when unacquainted with one’s real appellation. In Buenos Ayres, a stranger is addressed as “Don Juan.” The Toms and Jacks of the Spanish vocabulary are softened down into Tomas and Juan.
The Spanish custom, when speaking or writing to an individual, of using the Christian name instead of the surname, is very pleasing; and as I am a great lover of the romantic, it will necessarily follow, that I am more charmed with Don Carlos, Don Henrico, Don Guillermo, &c. than plain Mr. Smith, Mr. Wilkins, and Mr. Tomkins; and Doña Clara, Doña Dominga, and Doña Saturnina, than Miss Williams, Miss White, and Miss Brown.
Respectable families think it no disgrace to let lodgings, take in washing, make and mend clothes and linen: these occupations are not looked upon as belonging to the inferior orders, as with us. Their slaves perform the laborious part.[17]I was not a little surprised, when I first arrived, to have an application from the wife of an Alcalde to perform any jobs in needle-work that I might have. I concluded the lady meant to jest. The wife of an Alcalde, a sitting magistrate, to take in needle-work! thought I. What would the Sir Richard Birnies and the other sages of Bow-street, Marlborough-street, &c. say to this?
Washing is dear—four to ten dollars per month, according to the clothes washed.
Slavery has been abolished here, since the year 1810: those born prior to that time, remain slaves.[18]The humanity of the Spaniards to their slaves, compared with other nations, is well known: in Buenos Ayres they are treated with great kindness. The female slaves are often placed more on the footing of friends, than either slaves or servants. They attend their ladies when visiting, seating themselves on the ground in the room in which their mistress may be, and witnessing the dances that continually take place amongst the members of families. These slave girls, in consequence, become quite knowing and accomplished, in their way; and, from being so much in the fashionable world, imitate their superiors. I have observed them dance the minuet, and Spanishcontre-danse, with great elegance. The men slaves, when deserving, are treated with equal kindness: it does honour to the humane hearts of their employers; and I almost adore them for it. In other countries, it has been my lot to see those unfortunate people treated with barbarity—even by my own countrymen. No ill effects in the end can possibly result from kind behaviour to the slaves: in Buenos Ayres, they appear affectionate, happy, and grateful. Of course, discontented spirits are to be found; but I speak in a general sense. Of an evening (though I believe it is not a constant rule), I have seen female slaves seated in the same chamber with their mistress and family, at needle-work.
Slaves can demand their paper, that is, the deed which binds them, and seek other employers; and, for cruelty, can allege a complaint with thealcalde. For serious misbehaviour, a proprietor can have them punished by flogging, &c. There are other chastisements for females.
The men slaves are not numerous; a great portion of them having enlisted as soldiers.
The English prefer having servants, to slaves, in their houses, and have purchased but few. Those black gentlemen, in the employ of Englishmen, have picked up a little of our language, which they are proud of displaying.
A great many North-American black men are about the town, and on the beach; crowding thepulperias.
The negroes have great confidence in the effect of charms for different diseases: they stick a small bean-shell to the forehead for the headache; another for the tooth-ache, &c. They wear, likewise, round the neck, a cross, with a piece of leather in the shape of a small morocco purse, like those sold in London: this is a religious badge.
The excellent and orderly conduct observed by the lower order of people in the streets, compared with other countries, is very remarkable: no obscene insulting jests meet the ear; and persons may accompany modest females in the street, without dread of molestation from the groups of all descriptions strolling about, who evince towards the stranger every respect: we cannot but esteem them, for thus contributing to render a foreigner’s abode in this city so free from apprehension.
The riotous noise of the English lower orders is by some called one of the evils of liberty, and I could not consent to curtail that liberty even to purchase civility from them. I should, however, be glad if they would condescend to copy, in some degree, Buenos Ayrean manners. I do not wish them to be servile—good manners is not servility; but to moderate that effusion of liberty, descending sometimes to ferocity.
Drunkenness is not a vice of this country; the rabble of blacks and porters are at times so. The mechanic employs his spare hours with the guitar: on a summer’s night, thedoors and windows are open, when they are to be seen singing, and dancing, and smoking the segar. My countrymen of the same grade, at home, prefer the comforts of society in a public house, where they can, over their grog and song, damn the ministers and taxes, swearing that they are true-born Britons, back and bone.
From the orderly conduct observed in the streets of Buenos Ayres, a stranger would suppose it a most moral city; we have no drunken disorderly females, creating abhorrence and disgust. Intrigue is common enough, but then it is modestly managed: besides, a lady’s frailty is not considered an offence so heinous as in our scrupulous England; more compassion exists for the lovely sinners. Here are no crim. con. actions to amuse some amorous judge and counsel, and inflame the passions.
This country has its portion of beggars, who are, at times, very annoying, besieging the court-yards, &c. The best way to get rid of them is to exclaim “Perdone por Dios!” (pardon for God’s sake). This expression, singular as it may appear, seldom fails in its effect; but “Perdone por Dios!” would have but little chance amongst the sturdy beggars of Europe.
The operation of lousing, so common in old Spain, is followed here, in a degree, amongst a particular class. It is a most unseemly sight, for female fingers to perform the office of combs.
A great aversion used to exist to reside in a house in which a person had died of a fever, until it was thoroughly cleaned.
A savings bank has been established, upon the English plan; I doubt if it will suit the meridian of Buenos Ayres: they are too careless of to-morrow. If beef was one real per pound, their ideas would be different; the labourer would be more industrious, and not refuse to work on a rainy day, which is the case now. A tolerable sum has been collected for the savings bank.
A propensity to gaming exists with the Buenos Ayreans; I mean with the male part. The vices of London’s fashionable dames, in this respect, are not followed by the fair that inhabit the banks of La Plata.
There are no houses publicly appropriated for gaming, the government having discountenanced this: but what can impede the infatuated gamester? A few nights after my arrival, I visited a gambling-house; they were playing a game like those of our E.O. tables. The police entered;—I thought they were going to take us all into custody, in the London mode; but they were more considerate, and only took the principals: several Englishmen were in the room. If I am correctly informed, Buenos Ayres contains individuals who, in the management of the dice-box, might cope with gentlemen in the parish of St. James, which some South American deputies, resident in London, can vouch for.
Even the boys of Buenos Ayres have apenchantfor gambling; especially the milk-boys, who often go homeminusthe day’s receipts.
Bathing in summer by all classes, particularly the ladies, is one of the fashionable recreations of the place; and as regards the latter, a stranger is not a little interested; for here are no Ramsgate, Margate, or Brighton machines, to shield them from prying eyes. They use bathing clothes, and the operations of undressing, dressing, &c. are managed with great dexterity.
They bathe in front of the town, attended by their female slaves. I have often smiled to see them splashing about the water, with their hair dishevelled, like a groupe of mermaids, wanting but the comb and glass to make the picture perfect. At dark, the scene continues, and not being exposed to the unhallowed eyes of man, they give a loose to joy and merriment. Many lanterns are lighted, and the quantity of them convey an idea of a Chinese festival. Bathing machines would be a great accommodation, as itis necessary to walk nearly a quarter of a mile to get out of depth; and, except in some parts, the bottom is stony and disagreeable. It is altogether a wretched place for bathing.
Somesoi-disantmodest persons (foreigners) take occasion to censure this fashion of the females bathing, denominating it indecent. The assertion is hardly a fair one. It has long been the custom; and such is the circumspection used, that a bathing machine could scarcely add to the decorum of the scene. Some grotesque scenes sometimes occur, such as the lower orders of women bathing and smoking the segar at the same time. Umbrellas are at times used to shade off the sun. No respectable person ventures near the place occupied by the bathing females.
Dress.—In their attire, the gentlemen of Buenos Ayres follow the English fashion, except that they have not had the folly to imitate us in our French short-tailed coats, which were only worn by porters and oyster-men when I was in England. From the summer’s heat, jackets and light trowsers are worn, with straw hats, particularly those singularly shaped ones from Chili. It is not genteel to wear jackets at the theatre, or at parties. From November to March, light clothing is very agreeable, except now and then during some days of cold.
In England, they would smile to see the dress of the boys in Buenos Ayres; they have long coats, capotes, large hats, Wellington trowsers, and boots; and this for children of eight and nine years of age, who look like men of Lilliput.
The dress of the Buenos Ayrean ladies, I think, includes all that is charming in female attire. The street dress is enchanting, equal to that of our ball-room. White is the prevailing colour. The waist is neither so short as the French, nor so long as the English. Shawls of all descriptionsare worn; some of them serve both for veil and shawl, covering the bosom, and hanging loosely over the back part of the head: the face is never concealed. In fine weather, they throw the shawl entirely from the head, and walk the streets in conscious beauty, heedless of the admiring eyes that will, in spite of resolution, turn to gaze at them, as fancied beings of another sphere. Many times I have done this, and found it impossible to withdraw my eyes, till distance, or the fear of being observed, has obliged me. Those provoking fair ones wear the frock and petticoat of that shortness, as just to expose enough of the leg and ancle to increase the temptation. The persons of some of them are symmetry itself.
So eager are the Buenos Ayrean ladies to display advantageously their pretty feet and ancles, that they wear such tight shoes, as must cause them infinite pain, which is evident from the limping manner in which they are often observed to walk.
The ball dress is similar to that worn in the theatre; there may be more of ornament, but some young ladies whom I could name want “no more diamonds than their eyes can give.”
Some ladies change their dress three and four times in a day.
The greatest attention is paid to the hair, which is suffered to grow to a considerable length, and is fastened by a comb behind, with ringlets in the front. Caps or bonnets are never worn, even in extreme old age. The elderly lady has her white locks as carefully combed as when in youth; and the same peculiar style of managing the veil. They have not recourse to powder, or other disguises, to hide the approach of age. In company, they are exceedingly free and talkative, and very cheerful. It is a sight not devoid of interest, to see them gliding along, in their black attire, to church, at which they are the most constant visitants—the faded forms of what was once, perhaps, so lovely.
The sable dress worn by the ladies at church, and which I so much admire, is the ancient Spanish costume, thebasquina.
The wearing of mourning does not continue so long as with us; neither are young and handsome widows disfigured by those close and melancholy-looking caps that we see in England.
I am so charmed with the costume of the Spanish ladies, that I begin to think my dislike of the cap and bonnet has something of prejudice in it. If fortune should conduct me again to England, it will be some time ere I shall fancy those articles of dress. In Buenos Ayres, the sight of them are my perfect abhorrence: at home, they are more applicable to the climate.
Fans are the ladies constant companions—in the street, theatre, ball, and chamber; and their style of using them is unique, and, I think, graceful. They are expensive: I have heard of sixty to seventy dollars being given for one. The French send a great many, with all the embellishments so peculiar to that nation.
The dress of the female children displays equal taste with that of their elders; from which, indeed, there is little difference—the short-sleeved frock, silk stockings, curled hair, and fan. They walk the streets with immense importance—the miniatures of those of maturer age.
The children of Buenos Ayres are handsome; many of the female part, perfect seraphs, bidding fair to fill up the void that time will soon occasion in those whose charms now so much delight us. I sometimes look at these little creatures with a feeling almost bordering upon melancholy, to think that, in a few years, they will replace those who at this period shine forth in all the heaven of beauty, to be themselves replaced, another and another race succeeding. Who can prize life, when our dream of happiness is so short; the vale of coming years so soon casting its blight upon all our ardent, youthful fancies?
The females are really industrious, making their own clothes, and, I am informed, the silk shoes they wear: a British lady is lost without the milliner’s aid. One of that profession might answer here, if it were only for the novelty of the thing.
Travelling.—Not many carriages or coaches are to be seen; but they increase in number. Thecallé coché, or street coach, is much used; it is drawn by two horses, or mules, with a postillion, and in shape very much resembles our bakers’ carts: the passengers are seated sideways. Some English merchants and Creoles have carriages after the English mode; but the nature of the roads and streets does not afford them a great opportunity to “show off.” Morris, an Englishman, carries on a profitable trade as coach-maker: he is, indeed, the only good one in the town.
The travelling carriages, that convey families to their estates, hundreds of miles distant, are heavy cumbersome machines, in the old Spanish style. A family going to the country is no ordinary sight; the mules and waggons following with the baggage, and the quantity of out-riders, slaves, and servants, inponchosand little dirty hats, surrounding the carriages containing the ladies and female slaves, appear like a banditti escorting their plunder.
A gentleman travelling has dirty white leather boots, large spurs, poncho, slouching hat, pistols, sword, dagger, and knife; he appears a complete robber captain—in fact, another Rugantino: he has generally one or two slaves to attend him.
There are post-houses on the road, and those leading to Chili are very regular. A constant supply of horses and guides are kept; but persons mostly go on horseback, for the sake of expedition. The journey is thus made to the Andes in about fourteen days. Crossing the mountains, and getting to Santiago, in Chili, will take about threeweeks, from Buenos Ayres; but the horse must always be kept at a full gallop. Carriages are expensive, and very dilatory, but they save a great deal of fatigue.
There are persons in Europe who suppose that horses may be obtained in South America for the trouble of catching them: but that is not exactly the case in this province; here they have all owners.
Horses may be bought from 3 to 100 dollars, according to their quality; a very good one may be had for seventeen dollars. They average about 12 or 13 hands high, and have the tail mostly long. They will endure much fatigue. Their pace is the gallop, or canter; trotting, the horse’s natural pace, appears quite unnatural here; but we must not include those trained for the carriage or gig. There are some fine horses in Buenos Ayres; and by those who have not seen the hunters, the dray, and the heavy horse of Europe, they will be admired. To tell a native that horses have been sold in England for 2, 3, 4, and 5000 guineas, would hardly gain belief.[19]If these animals are cheap here,the keep of them is dear—from 12 to 17 dollars per month. Hay is not much used: grass may be purchased from the country, every morning, from the grass carts that pass through the town.
They have no convenience like the livery stables of England. The horses are put under a shed, or left in the open air; the mild climate requiring no other care. Those employed in drudgery with carts, at the custom-house, &c. are as hard worked as our post and hackney-coach horses.
English saddles are in vogue. Thericado, or saddle of the country, keeps its sway, being so constructed that on journeys it serves for saddle and bed. The Spanish bridle and bit are preferred both by the English and the natives. The Spanish fashion of having the stirrups long is invariably followed, and I think it more graceful than our mode.
Silver stirrups, spurs, &c. are not so much in use as formerly. Horses, bridles, and saddles were repeatedly stolen in the streets; but such events, from the regularity of the police, do not often happen now. Every horse has a burnt mark, by which its owner can be traced.
The ladies ride on horseback; but they neither look so well in their riding attire, or manage the horse so dexterously, as the British ladies.
The lower orders of countrymen ride with one toe in the stirrup, and gallop for miles in that way.
They strap the front of the horses’ legs, to prevent their running away, in the streets. Galloping is not permitted in the town.
The country waggons are roofed with hides, and have large wheels: the creaking of the latter is very disagreeable; but they will not take the trouble to grease them. Whole families and parties, going long journeys, live and sleep for weeks or months together in waggons drawn by oxen. Six or eight of them are yoked, in pairs, to a log of wood at the back of the horns, to which the rope harness is tied, and they are thus made to draw the burthen from the head. They are urged on by poles with a sharp substance at the end: the drivers have likewise a piece of lead, in shape and size like our constables’ staffs, with which they belabour the poor animal about the horns. They sadly want a Mr. Martin here. From being so constantly goaded, these animals have got a mischievous trick of kicking; and, not being aware of them, I once received a favour of this sort, which has since made me (to use the sailor’s phrase) “give them a wide birth.”
Sports and Amusements.—Near the Recolator is a decent even road, where, on fine evening, are horse-races. The natives ride without saddle; and the animals have great spirit. Englishmen sometimes get up a race, the natives acting as jockeys.
Exercise on the water is not a popular amusement. The inhabitants have no taste for sailing-boats and rowing-matches: the river, it is true, has no very great inducement for aquatic sports.
A particular class of the people are very fond of cock-fighting, and will give thirty to forty dollars for a good English game-cock. The packet sailors have brought some out, and sold them well. The native game-cocks are good, but not equal in strength and courage to the English.
Greyhounds and foxhounds would come to a bad market, for neither climate nor country is adapted for hunting. My fox-hunting countrymen would be out of their elementhere: foxes there are none; but deer are plentiful. Athletic sports must be confined to countries more congenial to them.
The amateurs of shooting would be at home: birds abound so much as almost to destroy the pleasure of the sport. A short distance from town, there are lakes, with wild ducks, geese, swans, &c. In cold weather, and in other periods, flocks fly over the town, and alight near the beach. The black-necked swans are fine birds; and wild ducks, which are always an excellent dish at table, are much better than the tame ones: the market is well supplied with them. There are also excellent partridges, of a larger size than our’s; but there are no pheasants. English sportsmen, habited in the mode of their country, with fustian jacket, gun fastened to the horse, and the dogs behind, greatly enjoy this recreation: they bring to my recollection our sporting farmers of Gloucestershire and Norfolk, revived in South-America. The Frenchmen in this country are fond of the sport: they go out, dressed in French sporting costume, with cap and jacket, and on foot. I have observed that this amusement is, in a great measure, confined to foreigners; the natives take very little interest in it. The cockney sportmen of Buenos Ayres sometimes amuse themselves by shooting gulls on the beach.
The country affords little facility to follow fishing as a sport; and the fish found in the river, with a few exceptions, is not worth catching. They fish on horseback. Two horses are attached, one to each end of the net,—a man standing on their backs, in the manner of one of Astley’s equestrians; and they go so deeply in the water, that the horses are, at times, obliged to swim. I have expected to see the men thrown off. The net is then hauled to the shore; the fish that is fit for the market is taken out, and the rest thrown or given away. People don’t go out fishing at a distance, in boats. The sailors on board the vessels in the roads catch great quantities of fish, but they are ofa very indifferent kind: one called the cat-fish is the most common.
Throwing thelassois a favourite amusement of this country, and is performed by the natives with great dexterity. A man on horseback, holding thelasso(a rope looped at the end) rides amongst a herd of cattle, casting the rope towards the object he wishes to entrap; the first attempt almost always succeeds, and the animal is fast secured by the leg. They practice thislassofrom boyhood: it is a formidable weapon, against a flying enemy.
An annual fair is held on some open ground, before the Recolator church, about two miles from the fort, and one mile north of the town. It commences on the 12th of October (the nativity of Nostra Señora del Pilar), and continues a week. The amusements are not very great: there are a few booths for eating and drinking, swings, two or three humourless clowns running about, and a military band. The national British and American flags are hoisted from houses and booths devoted to good cheer, rented for the occasion by individuals of those nations. At night, the country people dance till a late hour in the booths; they may be observed to perfection then. I wandered into several; and the Gaucho ladies and gentlemen behaved with the greatest politeness, offering me a seat, and entreating me to dance. The guitar was the music, with the usual accompaniments of singing, and snapping the fingers during the dance. On fine evenings a very elegant assemblage attend this fair, which is a promenade for the beauties of the city; but being held so near the equinox, the weather is generally unsettled. In 1822, a tremendous storm took place, one night of the fair, overwhelming booths, flags, and preparations; hundreds took refuge in the church. At the theatre (in which I happened to be during the storm), the dust filled the interior, obscuring the stage. The small stones and dust, rattling against the walls and windows, had the effect of what one might suppose of a shower of small shot.
The fair at the Recolator, in 1824, as regarded amusements, was very dull. The promenade, however, was well attended: theelegantes, and others of Buenos Ayres, appeared in their best attire; and the dashing mulatto girls, in silk stockings, white dresses, and veils, seemed determined to rival the fair ones of higher birth. As usual, the equinoctial gales vented their spite at this devoted fair.[20]
During Carnival they have a disgusting practice: in place of music, masques, and dancing, they amuse themselves by throwing buckets and pans of water from the tops of houses and windows, sousing every passenger that passes, and following each other, from house to house, in regular water attacks. Egg-shells filled with water are also thrown: these are sold in the streets. The audience, on leaving the theatre the night before Carnival, get a plentiful salute of them. It lasts three days; and many persons go out of town to avoid it, as it is hardly possible to walk the streets without a ducking. The ladies receive no mercy; neither do they deserve any, for they take a most active part. Repeatedly, on passing groups of them, at night, an egg of water has been adroitly put into my bosom. Those whose occupations lead them into the street, must expect a wetting. Strangers seem to join in the sports with great glee. An English master of a vessel, just arrived, received a bucket of water. Not being aware of the practice, he took up bricks, swearing he would break every window in the house. He could scarcely be pacified. Many persons have been seriously ill from the effects of Carnival playing. The newspapers and police have interfered to suppress it, hitherto, without effect, though it is somewhat lessened. They follow it as an ancient custom of the country; and,like other absurdities, it will, I suppose, die a natural death. If the ladies knew how much it detracts from feminine softness, surely it would be discontinued by them.
In 1825, government seized the opportunity of the victory in Peru, to devote the three days of Carnival to public rejoicings. Handbills were accordingly issued, requesting fathers and masters of families to assist them, and prevent water-throwing, denominating it “disgraceful to a civilized people.” The appeal had, in some degree, the desired effect: at night, however, the water-playing folks could not resist indulging in their favourite amusement—sprinkling the pedestrians with water from phials; especially in the Plaza, where, some mischief-loving girls managed to accommodate me with some of their favours in this way. In time, the good sense of the people will banish this, as they have many other of their antique and absurd customs; for instance, the musical exhibitions during Lent—a triumph gained by reason over bigotry and priestcraft.
Provisions.—The new market, in the centre of the town, is convenient, and well supplied: soldiers are stationed in the outlets, to keep order. Beef is sold at three reals thearroba, or 25 lb.; mutton, for the whole sheep, six reals. Veal is not allowed to be killed; and pork is very bad indeed, and seldom used at table. Turkeys cost from 5 to 7 reals; ducks and fowls, 3½ reals each; partridges and pigeons, 1½ real the pair: geese are moderate—3 reals each. Vegetables are very dear: cabbages, one real; carrots, green peas, cauliflowers, spinage, &c. in the same proportion.
Although the chief articles of life are, at first cost, so cheap, the expense of fire in cooking makes them come almost, if not quite, as dear as in England. Coals are imported from England, and are dear.
The beef is good, but much inferior to our’s; and their fashion of always baking it gives it a taste of the charcoaland wood, and renders it insipid. They have no idea of roasting by the spit. Mr. Booth, an Englishman, who keeps a store, is noted for having dinners in the English style.
In summer, meat will not keep beyond the day, and cattle are slaughtered in the morning for the day’s consumption; in winter, the night previous. In England, meat kept two or three days is supposed to eat more tender; here, it is the reverse—as report tells me, for I have never been housekeeper enough to know from experience.
Mutton is indifferent: from some farms, they tell me, good mutton can be procured, but it has not been my lot to partake of any of this superior sort. The natives have not much relish for mutton: sheep were, at one time, of so little value, that, in the country, they were killed, and used as fuel for brick-kilns. This has improved, and will continue to do so, from the number of well-stocked sheep farms, that now send large droves far into the interior for sale. Mr. Halsey, an American gentleman, has a large concern of this nature.
The poultry bought in the market are not of the best description; they are in general, diminutive and tough. To have good poultry, it is necessary for persons to fatten them themselves, or purchase them at farms that can be depended upon. Ducks are better; the turkeys are large, and, when properly reared, eat tender; the geese are indifferent. Partridges are large and tender, and very excellent. The ordinary poultry, in a manner, live upon beef, for which they seem to have a peculiarpenchant. I have seen beef and corn placed before turkeys, and they preferred the former. In a place where so many animals exist upon beef, the pig, it may be believed, comes in for his full share. Indeed, all animals, in this country, appear to live upon beef. The quantity that is wasted would be most acceptable to the poor in populous Europe.
This country is as famous for the quantity of beef produced, as the Cape of Good Hope is for sheep. A bullocknow costs eight dollars, without the hide; formerly, they could be purchased at ten reals. The hide now sells for six dollars. Some of theestanciashave from forty to fifty thousand head of cattle of all classes.
An order exists, that beef is not to be sold at more than three reals the arroba, at market. The year of 1823 was one of great drought, and the cattle perished by thousands: the beef market was in so terrible a condition, that scarcely any were to be had, and what there was was very bad; for cattle could not be brought to market, but at a very great loss to the owners. The impolicy of a fixed price in an open market, except when monopoly is apprehended, was fully proved. When any beef came to market, there was perfect fighting for it with the slaves and servants of families and others. The poor endured privations with patience: John Bull would have been more riotous.
Besides the principal market, there are others in different parts of the town; and beef is sold in carts, that take their stations in yards and outbuildings, holding a butcher’s shop, the ground serving for block. The first sight of this operation, so different to the cleanliness and style of English butcher’s shops, is sufficient to disgust a stranger.
Salt, or corned beef, is only to be had good in winter, and then it is nothing like that we get in England. It is only at English or American tables this dish is to be seen: the natives pretend not to understand it; I have seen them, notwithstanding, partake of a buttock of beef with great relish.
A beef-steak is so entirely an English dish, that it preserves in all climates its original name: they may be had in the coffee-houses here, but, like the French “bif-tik,” are no great things.
The Gauchos in the country exist upon beef: bread is a rarity with them. Having no ovens, they are obliged to roast the beef upon sticks placed lengthwise. I wish they were under the same necessity in Buenos Ayres; I shouldeat it with much better appetite. The true roast beef is only to be obtained amongst those Gauchos.[21]
Carné conquiero(beef baked with part of the hide attached), andmater ambre, or kill hunger (baked beef, with saucepiquant), is relished by many here; but I am not one of the number.
The sausages I should like, were it not for the abhorrent garlic in them.
The dainties of English hams, cheese, potatoes, &c. are bought at the stores; the two former, at four reals the pound; the latter, one real: the duties are rather high upon them. Bottled beer may be purchased at four reals per bottle; and draught beer may sometimes be had. Articles of the above description are almost wholly imported from England. The length of the voyage will not permit our rich English cheeses to be brought here; consequently, we are deprived of the luxury of a real “Welch rabbit.” The Penco cheese, brought from the district of that name, in Chili, approaches nearest to our toasting cheese.
Bread is dear: two small loaves (a trifle larger than our French rolls), one madio. They decrease the size according to the price of flour. That made of American flour is the best. They are, at present, entirely dependent upon foreign importation; and the Americans have taken away immense sums of money. The corn of the country, from some unaccountable cause—a want of attention, or deficient harvests—is nothing equal to the demand. They generally grind the corn at the bakehouses, which, by a late order, are removed out of town. Mules are employed in the grinding.
Tea is not much drank by the natives, though more sothan formerly. In English families, it is, as at home, an article of the first necessity; it sells here from 1 to 1½ dollar per lb. Coffee is 3½ reals per lb. Lump sugar, dear and scarce; that of Havannah and Brazils is used. Chocolate, from 2½ to 3 reals per lb.
Altogether, living in Buenos Ayres is much more expensive than in England, without its various comforts.
Here are wines of all sorts, “from humble Port to imperial Tokay,” and but little good. Port and Madeira are retailed at one dollar per bottle; champaigne, a dollar and a half. Of French and Spanish wines, there are great quantities. The cheapest and common drink is the wine of Catalonia, or, as it is denominated, Carlon wine, which is sold at from two to three reals per bottle, and is far from an unpleasant beverage. Not much wine is made in the country; that of Mendoza has a sweet taste, like our homemade wines.
Beer is only used as abonne bouche. Bottled beer has not that relish to me, that the London draught porter has. Brandy, gin, and rum, are abundant. The latter arrives from the Brazils, Havannah, and Isle of France. The good old Jamaica rum is a scarce commodity. Caña, a sort of white brandy, from the Havannah, Brazils, and Spain, and called Spanish brandy, is much drank, and makes capital punch.
The vegetables of this country, to my thinking, are not very enticing. We miss the delicious flavour of the summer cabbage, large asparagus, and peas, that we have at home. A good salad, with cucumbers and onions, may be procured. Turnips are scarce and bad. Indian corn grows in abundance.
English potatoes are much sought after: the packet sailors have brought a great many;[22]and so eager were the Englishpotatoe merchants to obtain them, that they quarrelled one with the other, and their disputes were referred to the Consulado, who must have imbibed strange opinions of the trading English. All efforts to raise potatoes on this soil have failed: they are small and insipid. An Englishman, Mr. Billinghurst, has been endeavouring, some years, to effect this object without success. Those grown at Monte Video are something better. In Peru, they are thought equal, if not superior, to our’s: but our islands appear to be their home.
The peaches in their season, from January to March, are excellent, and the consumption great, being esteemed healthy: they are sold in all parts—in the markets, shops, and hawked about the streets. From eight to ten can be purchased for amadio(three-pence English money). The strawberries, apples, pears, cherries, &c. are, for their quality, not worthy of notice. Grapes are tolerable. Oranges will not thrive in this climate; and the lemons are very inferior. Gooseberries, currants, and plums are unknown, except by name. After all the praises bestowed upon the fruits grown in tropical and warm climates, they cannot, in the gross, equal those of others. What have they to compensate for the green-gage, gooseberries, currants, strawberries, cherries, apples, pears, and plums of every description? Travellers must not believe all they hear in Europe; they will not find the fields and boughs, in South America, teeming with every species of fruit, free to those who choose to gather them.
In addition to those already noticed, this country produces very fewOTHER ANIMAL OR VEGETABLE PRODUCTIONS. Indeed, persons who wish to send presents to England are often at a loss what to forward, the country not producing any great variety, either in the animal or vegetable world.
The herds of cattle that exist in the Pampas are immense:of this we can form a tolerably correct estimate from annual exports. In one year a million of ox and cow hides were exported.
Mules are numerous and cheap; they cost from two to four dollars each. There is a traffic in them, but not very great, to the Isle of France and West Indies. The expense of provender and fitting for such a freight, and the numbers that die during a voyage, lessen the profits considerably; and vessels will not venture upon each troublesome shipmates when any thing else offers.
A great many tigers are found up the country, and about the islands of the river Parana; but they have nothing of the ferocity or terrific grandeur of the East-Indian tygers: they are, in fact, more like leopards; and those that I have seen are not larger than a common sheep dog. They will, however, often attack individuals; and several have been devoured by them.
The tiger-cats are plentiful.
Buenos Ayres swarms with dogs, and none of them very valuable. An English bull-dog would beat fifty such. They had an abominable practice of sending criminals, under a guard, into the streets, armed with heavy clubs, for the purpose of killing the dogs they met with, leaving the carcases in the street to rot. Many a pet has been slaughtered this way. Some more humane method might be devised, to lessen the number of dogs, than this cruel and disgusting mode: it has been lately discontinued. Hydrophobia, I conceive, they only know by name, as I have never heard of any accident from it.
Of the small field animals the nutria, for the sake of its skin, it the most valuable, and forms a valuable article of export. They are, in shape, much like rats; but are larger, and have long front teeth projecting: they are quite harmless.
Thearmadillois the South-American hedge-hog, without the prickly substances they have in Europe: the natives eat them.
Here are, also, theboscatcha, or South-American badger; and a pretty little animal, like a weasel, which is often tamed, and runs about the house.
Rats and ants are a great annoyance in this country: they swarm in the houses, and are very active in their vocations. The former are not so ferocious as the English ones, who often, when retreat is cut off, fight most ratfully. The Buenos Ayres rats are better educated.
The fire-fly, on summer nights, is seen gliding through the air.
This not being a woody country, the feathered creation presents very little variety. Here are the canary, cardinal, common sparrow, owls, &c.
About Paraguay, and where it is more intersected, there are some beautiful birds, including the parrot and parroquet; the latter are likewise plentiful on the other side of the river, in Entre Rios, &c.[23]
Ostriches are very numerous in the Pampas.
The beautiful and scarce little humming-bird, now and then, makes its appearance among the lowers. I have made several efforts to catch them, but without success.
This portion of South America, in the summer of 1824-25, was most seriously annoyed by locusts; the memory of the oldest inhabitant cannot recollect such a swarm. The air was darkened, and the ground strewed, with the millions of those devouring insects: a north wind brought them down from the Parana, like a snow-storm. The fruit trees, plants, &c. dreadfully suffered. The inhabitants have an idea, that, by ringing bells, beating tin saucepans, and other noises of this description, locusts can be frightened away. An easterly wind, rain, and cold weather, are, I believe, their only destroyers. The months of December,1824 and January, 1825, were foggy, dry months, the wind constantly from the north; and, for want of water, a great mortality took place in the country among the cattle.
Mushrooms and water-cresses are not very plentiful: they are more found in the neighbourhood of Ensenada; as are also leeches, for which doctors give a good price.
The flowers reared in this country must likewise yield, in beauty and sweetness, to our own: we do not see the polyanthus, moss rose, and many others that strew their beauties over the British isles.
Population.—The province of Buenos Ayres, which extends nearly 500 miles in length, with a breadth undefined (perhaps equal to its length), has only a population of about 150,000 souls; and Patagonia, which is under the same government, 1000.
It is estimated, that in the population of Buenos Ayres, there are five females to one male. If this be correct, some ladies are likely to come under the horrid list of old maids. That more female births take place in comparison with those of Europe cannot be doubted. I know families of eight, nine, and ten daughters, and perhaps one son. The causes of such disproportion, I must leave the natural philosophers to develope.
Trade and Manufactures.—From its extensive produce, Buenos Ayres will ever command attention in a mercantile point of view.
The exports consist of ox hides of all descriptions, horse hides, horse hair, wool, tallow, nutria skins, horns, chinchilla skins, salted beef, and silver in hard dollars and bars.
The quantity of European goods annually imported is very great: I am surprised how they find vent for them. The cargoes brought from Liverpool, of manufactured goods, of Manchester, Glasgow, &c. are of considerable value, often from 70 to 80, and £100,000.
The following is a list of square-rigged merchant vessels that entered the port of Buenos Ayres in the years 1821, 1822, 1823, and 1824:—
Under the Portuguese, Brazilian, and Buenos Ayrean flags, brigs and small craft are daily arriving and sailing from and to Rio Janeiro, and all parts of the Brazils, Patagonia, and trading in the River Plate, and up the rivers of the interior.
A number of American vessels are sold, as well as broken up, in Buenos Ayres, which, assuming the flag of the country, trade with Rio Janeiro, Rio Grande, Patagonia, &c. Many of them are under the command of Englishmen and North Americans, who, at no great distance of time will carry the Buenos Ayrean flag to every part of the world. This country must for some time rely upon foreigners for their shipping. The population are not maritimely inclined.
Several persons gain a livelihood by leaving notices, oravisos, of vessels arriving, and their cargoes.
A long report upon the trade of this country has been drawn up by a committee of British merchants, and presentedto the Consul, extracts from which have appeared in the English newspapers. Great talent has been exhibited in the detail and writing of this report, although I think the picture has been too highly painted.
Should the trade of Paraguay be thrown open to Buenos Ayres, it will be of great advantage. The present Governor, Francia, follows the Jesuits’ system; and Pekin is not more secluded from the inspection of strangers. Some unfortunate Englishmen, who ventured there with goods, had both their persons and property detained, and no satisfactory intelligence has been received of them. In February, 1823, a memorial was sent to Sir Thomas Hardy, by their friends in Buenos Ayres, entreating his interference. This memorial has been forwarded to the British government. It is surprising that the people of Paraguay, a country so rich in its natural productions should be quiet under such severe restrictions. One is led to suppose, from their passiveness, that they are content with the system. Francia, however, has lately permitted communication and trade with the Portuguese in Brazil; Itapua, on the frontiers, being the depôt town.
They have no regular exchange for the merchants to meet in, at Buenos Ayres. A new general Commercial Room is about to be established, to which persons of all nations will be allowed to subscribe. Some late regulations of the British Room have given offence; the committee of which, in derision, have been named “the Holy Alliance,” and have had several anonymous letters addressed to them, upon their aristocratical notions in a foreign country. The refusal to allow any but British subjects to subscribe to the Commercial Room, has been much commented upon; some years back it might have been advisable, but at this period a more liberal system would perhaps be better.
The Creoles of the country now engage in mercantile pursuits with great avidity; and commerce has spread into so many hands, that money does not roll in quite so fast as formerly.
The competition amongst the store-keepers materially diminishes their profits, and reduces the concern upon a level with English chandlers’ shops.
The number of shops in Buenos Ayres is very great; they abound in the streets leading from the Plaza. Every shop and house has a proportion of taxes levied upon it: and there is also a species of property tax upon the English plan. The taxes now imposed considerably diminish the profits they used to make.
The linen-drapers have a choice assortment from all countries, neatly arranged. Their shops are well lighted; and although they fall very short of the splendour of the London ones, yet they are equal to some of those of our best country towns: they are open till nine and ten at night. They call the Buenos Ayreans a lazy people: the shopkeepers, at least, do not merit this epithet.
The shopmen are mostly young men, who appear to have all the persuasive arts of their brethren in London, prevailing upon their fair customers to get rid of their money, and subjecting them to a good scolding from husbands and mammas, for extravagance, leading to pouting and sulks for a week. Those gentlemen of the shop have a great deal to answer for.
Every article of apparel, both for male and female, can be purchased at the retail shops, of which there are many: they have coats, waistcoats, trowsers, &c. hanging in front, in the mode of Monmouth Street. Mr. Niblett was the first Englishman that opened a shop of this description.A great many Englishmen have their clothes sent from England: but the duty and incidental expences make them come as dear as if made here.
Buenos Ayres contains several English tailors, whose work is tolerably well, considering they have not English workmen; although not with that exquisite finish which is to be seen in London. A coat will cost thirty dollars, trowsers twelve; the rest in proportion. The town swarms with Creolian and other tailors.
Manufactories for hats exist in Buenos Ayres: one of them, Varangot’s, has a considerable trade, and they are really good, from seven to eight dollars each, far superior to our second-rate hats; the misfortune is, that on the approach of rainy weather they act as a perfect barometer, and get limp.
Of the hats imported into Buenos Ayres the English are preferred; but the heavy duty has brought out those of an inferior description. At present, there are some good ones at ten or twelve dollars each, which at that price meet with a ready sale. The French import a quantity of hats; but the quality of them is much inferior to our’s.
English manufactured goods are cheap; the market has been overstocked, and, I fear, does not yield much profit to the adventurers. I have bought English stockings cheaper than I could buy them in London, leather gloves (a good pair) for a dollar. It is cheaper to purchase a stock of linen here than at home. I have purchased good white cotton neckcloths, after the rate of sixpence each. In summer, cotton shirting is preferred.
English saddles and bridles are imported largely; we thus return them their own hides, manufactured into choice and costly goods. Of the many saddlers’ shops, several are kept by Englishmen; as also watch-makers, with loads of English watches.
All sorts of hardware, as knives and forks, and scissars, are imported from England, and can be obtained at a cheap rate; also furniture, such as tables, chairs, &c. Of the latter, the North Americans bring great quantities.
India goods are sought after, particularly the China crape shawls.
Articles of stationery arrive from every quarter: Spanish writing-paper from Gibraltar and the Mediterranean, and I think it of better quality than ours, at least more pleasant to write upon.
Barbers’ shops are in great abundance.
At thepulperias, or grog-shops, they sell almost every article of life; they are, indeed, perfect chandlers’ shops.
The pastrycooks neither cut a figure in their shops, nor in the articles they sell; here are no hot buns or tarts on a morning, nor stale pastry for the ragamuffin boys to purchase. Sweetmeats are the order of the day.
A pastrycook’s shop in the English style, I am confident, would succeed—with the addition of hot rolls in the morning: none of those luxuries are known here.
A good portrait-painter, I conceive, would meet with encouragement in Buenos Ayres: at any rate they would have a fine field for study. An English artist, named Hervé, practised some months: indisposition forced him to leave.
It had occurred to me, that a pawnbroker would be a good business in Buenos Ayres; but I find every shopkeeper, or monied person acts in that capacity, and that respectable persons do not hesitate to send silver spoons, matté-pots, and other valuables, to pledge from day to day—at what interest (or if any) I know not, though I am apprehensive some of them are guilty of what we should call usury. Poverty is a crime in England; here they dread not exposure: but such is my delicacy in money affairs, I should prefer being under an obligation to the gentlemen with three balls, and to slide in at one of their secret doors, to the publicity practised here.
An Englishman has lately undertaken a speculation which has cost him a considerable sum, to have the exclusive privilege of taking cattle in the Falkland islands—in fact, to be sole proprietor for a term of years. He has forwarded to his new sovereignty a small colony of settlers, servants, &c.; the chances of his success are very doubtful. Buenos Ayres claims the jurisdiction of these islands, and those claims will not cause such a dispute as in the year 1770. The voyage to them from Buenos Ayres is made in about fourteen days.
Currency, &c.—In the year 1822 silver became so scarce, that, it was impossible to get change of a doubloon without allowing a consideration for it. Foreigners, of course, bore the blame of draining the country of the money. To remedy the evil, small notes were issued; and, shortly after, a large supply of copper coin arrived, that had been contracted for in England. This currency of paper and copper was something so new, that not a few sneers and forebodings took place. The facility that paper money affords to business, however, soon began to be experienced in Buenos Ayres. Previous to its issue, if a person had to receive a hundred dollars, it was necessary to hire a porter to carry it, and for larger quantities a cart; besides the endless trouble of counting thousands of dollars, often in reals and madios, and the detection of bad money: hours and days of valuable time were consumed by it. The collecting clerks are no longer tormented with counting piles of silver, before they take it from the house. Saturdays are the days appropriated for money collecting.
Notes, engraved in England, are now issued on a grand scale, from 5 to 1000 dollars, upon the security of the government and bank; the people are reconciled to it, and begin to find that a currency of gold and silver is not at all times a proof of the credit or riches of a nation.[26]
Besides the above notes, the present currency consists of the doubloon of 17 dollars; the half, quarter, and half-quarter doubloon; the dollar, half dollar, and quarter dollar; with reals, madios, and quartillos. The hard dollars are scarce, being bought up for exportation.
In exporting money, there is a small duty of two per cent. to pay. Being so trifling, it prevents smuggling, which was formerly the case. Making returns in produce, however, is at all times preferred to money, when it can be obtained at any thing like a moderate rate; but it is at times so scarce and dear, that it renders the purchasing ruinous.
The average exchange for the last three years has been forty-five pence the Spanish dollar.
The Bank of Buenos Ayres opened in 1822, the first thing of the sort in this province. Its capital is one million of dollars, in 1000 shares, of 1000 dollars each. The number of directors are ten,viz.six Creolian gentlemen, and four British. It has hitherto proved a profitable concern. The Bank shares rose from par to 170, but quickly declined to 90 and 100 per cent. premium, at which price they seem stationary. The last dividend paid on Bank stock was after the rate of 30 per cent.
The reported establishment of a National Bank, has created some alarm, amongst the present Bank proprietors; numerous controversies have taken place in the newspapers, upon the occasion. The affair, however, seems at rest for the present.
The government funds of Buenos Ayres have lately had a considerable rise, from 28 to 100. The bulls carry all before them; and the bears have had to pay pretty handsomely. Who knows but a Stock Exchange may be established here some years hence?
Considerable sums of money have been made by the advance in the public funds in Buenos Ayres; and, from the eagerness of all classes to speculate in them, it is probable that lame ducks will not be confined to Capel Court. Every shopkeeper now dabbles in the funds; and, in a market so confined, the mischief may be very serious.
Education, and Literature.—The government expresses the most laudable anxiety to forward education, by patronizing schools upon the Lancasterian system; and the numerous seminaries in this city are a credit to the people.
The College School consists of 125 youths, from the age of 15 to 16 or 17 years of age. In their walks, they wear black clothes, with a light blue ribbon over their coat. Their behaviour is better than that of the boys at our public schools: a person may mix amongst them, without being subject to those insolent remarks so common at home, and which makes a stranger dread to enter their precincts.
At the Buenos Ayres College, pupils are taught every branch of the classics. They have not the advantage of professors, as at Oxford, Cambridge, Eton, Westminster, and the rest of our public schools—professors, whose talents not only confer honour upon their country, but on the human species generally. Some students have elicited considerable talents. A younger branch of the Belgrano family, Manuel, wrote a play founded onThe Virgin of the Sun, which was performed with success; he has likewise acquired a knowledge of the English language, and is at present employed in the British Consul’s office.
In the Merced Church, an academy is held for the instruction of 30 youths in the study of divinity.
Among the numerous seminaries here, is one kept by an English lady, Mrs. Hyne, which receives great encouragement; she has had 70 scholars at a time, who are taught, with other requisites, the English language. From the anxiety expressed by parents, that their children should attain this language, the next generation will become completely anglicised. In placing them under the care of a Protestant lady, they are not so narrow-minded as to fear that their religion will be tampered with. One of the stripling scholars conversed with me the otherday in good English, which he had learned in a very short period.
A number of Buenos Ayrean gentlemen speak and write the English language with much fluency and correctness. Don Manuel Sarratea, late a governor of the province, and who resided some time in London as their minister, is a proficient, and a man of talent. To the British he is very attentive, and is much respected by them. Don Miguel Riglos is another instance: this gentleman has made the tour of Great Britain, and speaks English with so little of foreign accent, that, on my introduction to him, I supposed him to be an Englishman: his manners are very prepossessing and amiable. Some self-taught young men have also an excellent idea of it, and others express a great desire to learn it. It has now become a branch of education in their public schools; and, from the continued intercourse they are likely to have with the British and North Americans, and others who speak the English tongue, the utility of learning it will become every day more apparent, and, as regards business, it will be of greater importance than the French.