The above Plan is attended with considerable risk, inasmuch as convulsions in Egypt, and on the shores of the Red Sea about Suez and Mocha, and war in the Mediterranean, mightcut off altogether the communications with the whole Eastern World, according to the route which has been laid down. To prevent such a result is an object of great importance, providing it can be effected without a serious sacrifice as to time, or expenditure of money. To have such vitally important communications as free from being disturbed by the march of war as possible, is not only desirable, but indispensable, on the part of Great Britain. This may be effected by going out by the Cape of Good Hope.
Adopting this route would connect all the Eastern transmarine possessions of Great Britain in one chain, with scarcely a link in the line of communication being dependent upon foreigners, except one or two, which the naval power of Great Britain could always command and control in case of emergency. The course here alluded to would lengthen the course of post to Bombay and Calcutta, &c. to a considerable extent; but in every part of the proposed new line, coals could always be procured more cheap and readily than in any quarter near the Red Sea. The following details, however, will place the time and expense in a clear point of view, and enable any one to contrast at a glance the two routes, and the difference which in time and expenditure will exist and remain between them.
The steam-boat with all the Indian mails would go from Falmouth by Madeira to Cape Verde, thus:—
Twosteam-boats, actively employed, would perform this work, giving two mails each month. Each boat would be at sea 24 days each voyage = 48 monthly = 576 yearly:—coals, at 25 tons daily = 14,400 tons yearly, at 20s.14,400l.
The route and time from Cape Verde to the Cape of Good Hope will be—
Three boats, actively employed, would perform this work, giving two mails each month; but in case of accidents, it would be advisable to have one spare boat at St. Helena, or Cape Verde, making four at this station, or six in all between Falmouth and the Cape of Good Hope. The three boats actively employed would be at sea 40 days each voyage = 80 monthly = 960 yearly. Coals at 25 tons daily = 24,000 tons yearly, at 25s., 30,000l.
From the Cape, the steamers will proceed with all the mails to the eastward, calling at Algoa Bay and Bourbon, and next to the Mauritius. From the Mauritius it will proceed to Point de Galle, where it will deposit the mails for Bombay, and afterwards proceed to Trincomalee, from whence it will return by way of Point de Galle to the Mauritius, with the return mails for Europe. It would take the Bombay mails unreasonably out of the way to proceed from the Mauritius directto Trincomalee. The route, time, and distance for this boat, would be as under:—
Two boats would perform this service, giving two mails each month; each 24 days at sea each voyage = 48 monthly = 576 yearly. Coals, 25 tons daily, 14,300 tons yearly, at 40s.28,600l.; other charges, 13,640l.yearly; cost boats, 48,000l.
4.
Mauritius, to Point de Galle and Trincomalee, Ceylon.
Two steam-boats, actively employed, would perform this work, giving two mails each month; but in the event of accidents, there would require to be a spare boat on this station, either at Trincomalee or Point de Galle, as may seem advisable, and as assistance may be required for the Mauritius, Bombay, &c. line. The two boats actively engaged would be at sea each on each voyage, 27 days = 54 monthly = 648 yearly. Coals daily, 25 tons = 16,200 tons yearly, at 40s., 32,400l.Three boats yearly, other expenses, 20,640l.This station will require three boats; and one for the Calcutta station—together four.[15]
A steamer would proceed from Point de Galle to Bombay, calling at Mangalore, &c. and returning to Point de Galle by the same route with all the return mails. The route and time would be—
One boat would do all this work, giving two mails each month. At sea each voyage 8 days = 16 monthly = 192 yearly. Coals 25 tons daily = 4,800 tons yearly, at 40s., 9,600l.Other charges, 6,820l.—together 16,400l.
A steamer would proceed from Trincomalee to Calcutta and back, calling in going and returning at Pondicherry and Madras. The route and time would be thus:—
Onesteam-boat would perform this work, giving two mails each month; at sea each voyage 12 days[16]= 24 monthly = 288 yearly. Coals, 25 tons daily = 7200 tons yearly, at 40s., 14,400l.Other charges, 6820l.—together 21,220l.per annum.
From Trincomalee eastward to Batavia, Canton, and New South Wales, the routes, periods, distances, and expenses, would be exactly the same as those which have already been pointed out in the plan of having the communications by the Red Sea, under heads Nos. 7, 8, 9, and 10. Bringing the whole into one table, the total amount is ascertained, and the difference of expenditure in the one route over the other becomes distinctly known.
In order, however, to bring the whole into a tabular form, it is necessary to recapitulate and particularize the different heads, thus:—
The first deduction is the sum for the saving in quantity and price of coals, as aftermentioned; the last sum shows the difference of cost and expenditure of the route by the Red Sea, as compared with the route by the Cape of Good Hope; bearing in mind, however, that the expense of the establishment from Falmouth to Alexandria would still remain, admitting that the route by the Cape of Good Hope was adopted.
In the preceding calculation of expenses, the amount is taken calculating that the work is to be done wholly by steam, and at the average rate of 200 geographical miles per day. The use of sails, however, will propel a vessel at the average rate of 2½ miles per hour throughout a general voyage; consequently,one-fourthshould be deducted from the quantity of coalsused. This will amount to 31,935 tons, value 44,587l., less 10 per cent. allowed for wastage on the whole, is 12,770 tons, 17,795l., which leaves the net saving of 26,792l.Next, the value of coals supplied to the eastward of the Cape of Good Hope is calculated at 40s.per ton, as received from Europe. But coals may be supplied in all places to the eastward of the Cape of Good Hope at 30s.per ton, thus:—They can be purchased excellent, and in abundance, at 9s.per ton at Sydney, New South Wales. Ships coming from that place to ports in the East Indies, and the Mauritius, for freight, would carry these coals, and be glad to convey and to sell them at 30s.per ton, a profit of 21s., instead of making nothing, as at present. A further deduction, therefore, of 10s.per ton, or one-fourth in value, on the quantity used to the eastward of the Cape, is to be made, which will amount to 44,650l., and which, together with the above balance of 26,792l., makes the sum of 71,442l.to be deducted from the total amount of expenditure.
Next, as to the rate of speed—it is calculated throughout the voyage, at the rate of 200 geographical miles per day. In running before the wind, and with the monsoons, the vessels would make more, and in working against them, less; still, on the whole voyage, or from the Cape, for example, to Calcutta, and from Calcutta to the Cape again, the time specified would be sufficient for the work and the distance; while in taking a circuitous course to avoid the force of the monsoons, the steamers would make up by increased speed for the increased distance. The N. E. monsoon may, at anytime, be stemmed by a steamer of large power, and such as is now recommended. The S. W., which is the most formidable, may be overcome by the boats on their return,—if by the Red Sea, by making first a course to the southward, and then standing N. W. with the monsoon on their beam. By the Cape of Good Hope, the difficulty would be decreased in this respect, as the boats running southward to gain the Mauritius from Ceylon, would, by keeping to the southward, soon get out of their vortex; while the steamers between Bombay and Ceylon have only to keep in shore to avoid the greatest force of the monsoon either way, and from either quarter. In crossing from the Red Sea to Bombay,the strength of the N. E. monsoon would be avoided by keeping in with the Arabian, and afterwards with the eastern Asiatic coast.
Taking the line of communication, therefore, between Great Britain and the Eastern World, by the Cape of Good Hope, the expense beyond that which the line of communication by the Mediterranean and the Red Sea would occasion, would be, in capital, 112,000l., and in yearly expenditure, 39,128l.The point to consider is, will the advantages, and the security to be obtained by taking the former in preference to the latter route, prove a sufficient compensation for, and a warrant to go to the additional and increased expense? The answer, minutely considering every circumstance, will be, that they are. The obstruction which the land barrier between Alexandria and Suez offers, and must always offer, even when unobstructed by hostile force, to the conveyance of parcels, packages, and goods, is a great drawback indeed. The competition, also, by steamers belonging to other parties and states, would, as regards all these, be a great drawback on this line; and to which must be added, the increased difficulties and drawbacks which would arise in the event of hostilities taking place between any of the great powers connected with the affairs of the Mediterranean. On the other hand, the free communication which would be had,—free also as it would be, or nearly so, from any serious competition by the Cape of Good Hope, the carriage of every thing being in almost every point and place under the British flag and revenue laws—would render this line much more profitable than the line by Egypt and the Red Sea could ever be.
The coal depôts for the lines by the First Plan would be—Gibraltar, Malta, Constantinople, Alexandria, Mocha or Socotora, Bombay, Trincomalee, Calcutta, Batavia, Canton, Swan River, Hobart Town, and Sydney: and for the lines by the second plan, Madeira, Cape Verde, Ascension, St. Helena, Cape of Good Hope, Mauritius, Bombay, Point de Galle or Trincomalee, Calcutta, Batavia, Canton, Swan River, Hobart Town, and Sydney.
The course of post between London and the different places here stated, taking the route by the Cape of Good Hope, would be—Londonand Sydney, New South Wales, 195 days; London and Swan River, 165 days; London and Canton, 165 days; London and Batavia, 135 days; London and Calcutta, 135 days; London and Bombay, 135 days; London and the Mauritius, 105 days; and London and the Cape of Good Hope, 75 days, &c. &c., but in working the scheme some stoppages may perhaps be cut off.
A ready and safe communication with these important places, and at the same time with all the most eastern parts of Asia, with all the Islands in the Pacific Ocean, and with all the western coasts of the great continent of America, it will be readily allowed, is of the utmost importance to Great Britain and to the whole civilized world.
Through the isthmus of central America only, a short, safe, and easy passage from Europe to the eastern parts of Asia and the Pacific Ocean, can be effected. That a passage over the Pole exists, is extremely probable, nay, it may be said, is certain. This passage, when found, will be obtained by standing north between Nova Zembla and Spitzbergen, and thence over the Pole, inclining first eastward above Europe, and thence westward for some distance, to Behring's Straits. But admitting that there is a passage open by this route, it can only be so from the end of May to the middle of September, and during this period only comparatively safe; a period much too short to accomplish a voyage out and back from China, and scarcely sufficient to perform the voyage out and back between Great Britain and her territories on the west coast of America situated to the north of Columbia River. Moreover, even if a passage this way was open for a period sufficient to enable the navigator to accomplish the voyage to either of the quarters alluded to, stillit will appear, when the distances come to be noticed and contrasted, that, considering the winds and the weather which ships would encounter in passing over the North Pole into the Pacific, as contrasted with those which they would most certainly meet with in sailing westward through tropical seas, by the Isthmus of America; that the latter route would, upon the whole, be the best, and in all respects preferable and most expeditious.
A communication by the latter quarter may be advantageously and speedily opened up, both for steamers and for sailing vessels; and in the conveyance of mails, both or either may be employed, as shall appear to be most eligible and most advisable. To lay open such a communication as this would prove, is an object of the first importance, worthy of the attention of any body of men, and of any nation, but more especially of a nation like Great Britain, to support and to patronize in every way. By this route, all vessels, mails, and merchandise could reach the more distant and wealthy parts of Asia and Australasia, sooner and safer, and through seas comparatively always tranquil, borne by winds scarcely ever varying, and always favourable, than these can do by any other course that is known, or that remains to be discovered. In an especial manner, this would be the case as regards all the western coasts of America, North and South, the Islands in the Pacific, New South Wales and Van Dieman's Land, Japan, China, Eastern Siberia, &c. The perpetual trade-winds would bear vessels before them from Madeira to Canton, and almost to Sydney, while in returning they would merely have to run through these trade-winds, with a steady breeze on the beam, until they reached the latitude of 30° to 32° north, when the steady and certain, and strong westerly and south-west winds, would bear them in these parallels first, to the west coast of America; from which point winds off the land, and north-easterly trade-winds, would carry them, in the second place, to the point of communication with the Atlantic, through the Isthmus of central America; from which they, in the third place, would run to the north, carried by the trade-winds and the Gulf stream, into and through the Gulf of Florida, into the variable winds, which would quickly bearthem to all the eastern ports of North America, and to all the ports in Europe, or along the coasts of the Mediterranean.
By this channel, namely, through the Isthmus of central America, the valuable, but almost unknown, British territory on the west coast of North America, would be brought near, and cleared, and cultivated. So also would the whole remaining western coast of America, from Nootka Sound to the southern extremity of Chili, be brought near to the civilized world, and become, in consequence, also peopled, cleared, and cultivated. Without such a communication is opened up, these coasts, and states upon them, can scarcely ever be brought to this state, but to which it is most desirable for the general interests of the world, and of the human race in it, that they should be brought. Situated as they are, there is no produce of their soil which their inhabitants can raise that can bear the expense of carriage to enable it to come into competition in the general markets of the world, with similar articles raised in other countries, which are all more accessible and placed nearer markets; and unless the soil of the western coasts of America and the islands in the Pacific are brought into cultivation, and peopled by people more civilized and industrious, it is obvious that these countries and the states and population at present in them, must remain in the poor, ignorant, miserable, and uncultivated state and condition in which they are, of little service to themselves or to the remainder of the world.
The points where the communication between the Atlantic and the Pacific are most feasible and practicable, is at one point on the southern boundaries of the Republic of Mexico, and the others within the territories of the Republics of Guatemala and Venezuela. The neck of land, or isthmus, which connects North and South America together, may be taken to extend from 8° N. lat., in the meridian of 77° W. long., to the parallel of 18° or 19° N. lat. in the meridian of 100° W. long. Narrow as the continent of America is in all this space, but more especially in the southern portion of this space, recent surveys have reduced it still more; and it is not improbable that, when the late surveys of the west coasts within the tropics are published, that it will be found to be still narrower, and more contractedthan is supposed, or than the late accurate surveys by Captain Owen, under the orders also of the British Government, of the shores of the Gulf of Mexico, have shown it to be; and consequently the communication between the Atlantic and the Pacific will be found to be still shorter and more easy than it has been, or is even now considered to be.
The first two points within the limits above mentioned, where communications are most practicable, are the following:—First, in the territory of Mexico, from the mouth of the river Guazacoalcos, on the Gulf of Mexico, to the mouth of the Chimalapa, in the Gulf of Tehuantepec, on the Pacific, between the parallels of 16½° to 18½° N. lat. The distance from sea to sea at this part is 92 geographical miles, in a south-west direction. The sources of the streams which flow, the one eastward into the Gulf of Mexico, and the other westward, into the Pacific, come within the short distance of 20 miles of each other.Secondly, The channel from the Gulf of Dolce, which communicates with the Gulf of Mexico, to the southward of Honduras or the Balize, to Trinidad, situate on a bay in the Pacific, to the north of Point Remedios. The distance of the Gulf of Dolce to the Pacific, at the point just mentioned, is 60 geographical miles, with the advantages of the courses of rivers which bend their courses to the opposite oceans. But if it is correct that the River Balize is, as it has been stated to be, navigable upwards in its course to a distance of 200 miles, then it must penetrate so deeply into the continent, that its sources must approach to points still nearer to the Pacific than the Gulf of Dolce, or its tributary streams. It is doubtful, however, if any canals could be cut in either of the lines mentioned, because the land rises very considerably, forming in the central parts what is denominated Table Land, and is in general studded with ridges and high volcanic mountains, while the ports on either shore are neither very commodious nor of safe approach. There has been of late years also a tolerable good road constructed in the first-mentioned line, which will tend greatly to facilitate the communication from sea to sea, so far as the interests of Mexico are immediately concerned.
Thesepoints adverted to are the only probable channels of communication to the northward of the River St. Juan and Lake Nicaragua, which, like the last-noticed line, are situated in the territory of the Republic of central America, the capital of which is San Salvador. For reasons which will subsequently be adduced, the consideration of this important position is left until those points in the Isthmus of Panama and Darien have been particularly noticed and examined.
The first points to examine are those which are situated to the southward and eastward of Panama, and which are immediately connected with, and contiguous to, the Gulf of Darien. These are as follow:—In the province of Choco, famous for its gold mines, there is a ravine called Rapsadura, extending between a head branch of the River St. Juan, which, after a course from N. E. by N. to S. W. by S., falls into the Pacific in lat. 4°5' N.; and the river of Quito, one of the head branches of the River Atrato, which flows in nearly a due north course into the Gulf of Darien. Through the ravine just mentioned, the parish priest of Novita dug a small canal in 1778, which was navigable during the rainy season, and by which canoes, laden with coffee and other produce, passed from one sea to another, a distance of 250 miles; as they found it requisite and convenient.
The next point, and more to the north beyond Cape St. Francisco de Solano, in about 7°30' N. lat. is, from the mouth of the Cupica, or Tupica, as it is denominated in some maps, along that stream, which descends from the eastward into the Pacific, through a break in the mountains to the head of the river Naipi, a distance of from 15 to 20 miles only. The latter river is deep and navigable, and flows through a lake of considerable magnitude, nearly due east, into the River Atrato, a little below the village of Zitara, about 60 miles from the mouth of the latter stream, in the Gulf of Darien. The distance from the Pacific to the Atrato, through the channels mentioned, is only 60 geographical miles. The Atrato springs (its farthest branch the Rio Chame) in the rising ground, in 5°40' N. lat. and 75° 15' W. long., and runs almost due north, a distance of 200 miles, into the Gulf of Darien. At this point, thewestern and secondary chain of the Andes is broken and interrupted, and there is good reason to believe that they continue to be so in several places more to the northward: in fact, that they cease, and are succeeded through all the Isthmus of Darien and Panama, by a low range, broken into fragments in different places. At the point under consideration, namely, by the Cupica and the Naipi, the Spanish Government had it in contemplation, about forty years ago, to open a communication from sea to sea, by means of a canal; but the events in Europe, and the decay of their power, prevented the important enterprise from being undertaken. The Gulf of Darien, and the course of the Atrato, were rigidly guarded and concealed by the Spanish Government, so much so, that by special decrees the punishment of death was denounced against every one who should either permit or attempt the exploration of the country in these parts. This showed clearly that their practical knowledge gave them to know, that a communication between the Atlantic and the Pacific was easy and practicable in more places than one in this quarter of their dominions.
The next point where the communication is practicable, either by water or a short distance by land, where a canal could be cut, or a road made, is between the Gulf of St. Miguel on the Pacific, to the bottom of the Gulf of Darien, due east, and also to the Port de Escoces, orNew Edinburgh, more to the N. (N. E. by E. from St. Miguel) in the upper part of the Gulf of Darien, on the Atlantic. The distance from the head of the Gulf of St. Miguel to the latter point is 30 miles, and to the former 45 to 50 miles, but with river communications to within 16 miles of the latter, and 10 miles of the former. The Gulf of St. Miguel opens to the Pacific from 8°8' to 8°17' N. lat., and runs E. N. E. and N. E. by E., fully 22 miles into the country, its centre crossing the meridian of 78° W. long. As has been shortly adverted to, the rivers which seem to form the Gulf of St. Miguel run deeply into the country, both to the S. E. and to the N. E., one particularly, the Chuqunaque, with an extremely zigzag course between ridges of mountains, is laid down to within 10 miles of New Edinburgh; which, by the last Admiralty charts, drawn from the bestSpanish authorities, is placed in 8° 55' N. lat. and 76° 45' W. long. To the S. E. the source of streams which run into the Gulf of San Miguel spring within 15 miles of the mouth of the Atrato, while branches of each approach within half that distance of each other. The land in this quarter is clearly low, because, for a considerable distance from its mouth, the Atrato runs through a very marshy and flooded country. New Edinburgh, or Port de Escoces, is an excellent port, commodious, and well sheltered, and is the celebrated spot where, in 1699 (one hundred and thirty-eight years ago), the Scotch colony, under the direction of a Scotch clergyman, named Paterson, a most intelligent and enterprising man, was established, in order to open up a communication between both seas, and which was afterwards so shamefully, disgracefully, stupidly, and unguardedly abandoned by the then Government of Great Britain, spurred on to the act by the miserable and contracted commercial rivalry of England and Holland; and afterwards by the jealousies, the fears, and the representations of the Government of Spain, which at that time had really no right to the country, the natives thereof being independent of, and at war with, Spain. The Gulf of Darien is of easy entrance, and penetrates southward to a little beyond the 8° of N. lat., and to the southward of the principal mouth of the Atrato; the centre of the bottom of the Gulf being in the meridian of 76° 55' W. longitude.
The next and last point to the southward and the eastward of Chagre is by the river of Chopo, about 25 miles to the eastward of Panama. Narrow as the land in this quarter has been held to be, still the charts and maps lately published by individuals, and by the authority of the Admiralty, show that it is much narrower than what has hitherto been calculated upon; and in the particular point under consideration, very narrow indeed. From the mouth of the River Chopo, opposite the little island Chepillo in the Pacific, to the bottom of the Gulf of St. Blas or Mandinga on the Atlantic, is only about 20 miles (some maps make it still less). In this space, the mountains to the eastward of the high chain S. of Point Manzanillo and Porto Bello, which give rise to the Chagres, and itstributary streams, running first westward and then north-west into the Atlantic, are again, according to Captain Lloyd, interrupted and broken, affording thereby a readier communication between the two great oceans, the Atlantic, and the Pacific. In an apparently good Spanish map of the Isthmus, upon a large scale, the River Chopo or Bayano is represented as being formed by two branches, one under the name of the Rio Canizas, springing to the southward of the Pico de Carti, a hill only four miles from the Atlantic, in the Bay of Mandinga; the whole course of the river to the Pacific on a general south bearing, being only 22 miles. The source of the Chagres comes within 15 miles of the lower course of the Chopo; and some good maps lay down a river which joins the Chopo, near its mouth, as coming from the N. E., its sources likewise being within a very few miles of the Atlantic. Here, certainly, is a point from which, and on which a communication could be opened up at any rate by a good road, so as to afford a speedy conveyance for passengers, mails, and goods, between the two seas; while it is also exceedingly probable that, even in this short space, great facilities and assistance could be obtained by canal navigation, and by the rivers just mentioned.
The points, however, where a canal could be cut of sufficient depth to admit the passage of large ships, and thus save the delay and the expense which loading and unloading cargoes would occasion, where roads of any description remain the only means of communication, and where the approach on either coast is safe, and interior water communication most abundant, are, certainly, the points which should be fixed upon and selected, in order to effect the object so important to the whole world. The two points hitherto the best known, and considered to be the best adapted for the purpose, are, first, the line from Chagre on the Atlantic, to Panama on the Pacific; and secondly, the line, perhaps the best of the whole, from the mouth of the River St. Juan on the Atlantic, by that river and Lake Nicaragua, to Rialejo, or Gulf Papagayo, on the Pacific.
The Panama line comes most properly the first point for consideration. Here the survey, by Lieutenant Lloyd, in 1829, gives some certain data, and some curious and important information.He tells us pointedly, from actual observation, that which good Spanish maps indicated, and what was more vaguely told by others. According to him, on the eastern side of the province of Veragua, the Cordillera breaks into detached mountains, their sides exhibiting only bare rock, almost perpendicular. To these, as approaching nearer Panama, succeed numerous conical mountains, arising out of savannahs and plains, and seldom exceeding from 300 to 500 feet. "Finally," says he, "between Chagre on the Atlantic side, and Chorera on the Pacific, these conical mountains are not so numerous, having plains of great extent, interspersed with occasional ranges of hills of inconsiderable height."
Such is the Isthmus of Panama, where the distance from sea to sea is, even according to the present charts, only 30 geographical miles, and from the mouth of the Chagre to Panama, 33 miles.[18]Of this distance the Chagre, which has a circuitous course, is navigable for 40 miles to Cruces—distant from the sea in a direct line 21 miles, and from Panama 14 miles. At its mouth the Chagre is one-fourth of a mile broad, and at Cruces about 150 feet: in its middle course the depth is 24 feet. The current runs at the rate of from three to four miles per hour. It is full of numerous, constantly shifting sand banks, and sunken trees, which, with the current, render the navigationtedious, difficult, and even dangerous. At its mouth the coast is very sickly, as indeed the country through its course also is; but when the land is cleared, it will doubtless become more healthy. When the current is very rapid, it requires four or five days to reach Cruces. The height of the land which intervenes between Cruces and Panama, has been accurately ascertained by Mr. Lloyd; and that portion of the country which he passed over in his survey along the old road to Panama, is certainly the most elevated of the whole, as is shown in the following summary of his survey.
This survey commenced from the eastern suburb of Panama, at high-water mark, and ran along the old road to Porto Bello, unto the point where it crossed the Rio Chagre,—a distance of 1828 chains, 22¾ miles. The highest land passed over was the ridge Maria Henrique, 12¾ miles from Panama, and 10 from the Chagre. Its height is 633.32 feet. The point where the road approaches the river, is 169.840 feet above the level of high-water mark at Panama; and the bed of the river from whence the survey commenced downwards, is 152.55 feet. Descending the river 1545 chains, 19½ miles, Mr. Lloyd came to the village of Cruces, after a descent of 114.60 feet; thus making Cruces to be 37.96 feet above high-water mark at Panama. From Cruces to Gorgona 410 chains, 5¼ miles, the fall is 16.13 feet; and thence to a small gravel bank, named "Playa los Ingenieros" distant from Cruces 1302 chains, 16¾ miles, the fall is 21.82 feet, precisely level with the high-water mark at Panama. At 2682 chains, 33½ miles below Cruces, Mr. Lloyd first observed the effects of the tide from the Atlantic, the level of the river at this point being 13.65 feet below the level of high-water mark on the Pacific. At 507 chains, 12 miles, further down, reached La Bruja, where the water became brackish; the level of the surface of the river being 13.55 feet below the high-water mark at Panama. From La Bruja there was no perceptible descent to the Atlantic. The whole distance gone over in levelling from sea to sea, was 82 miles.
The tide at the mouth of the Chagre rises only one foot, or 1.16 feet; but at Panama the spring-tide in the Pacific rises in amean level to the height of 21.22 feet, though high winds and currents occasionally raise them to the height of 27.44 feet. At low water the sea sinks proportionally at Panama below the level of the Atlantic: the reason for this difference is obvious. The current towards the Gulf of Mexico, and which afterwards forms the famous gulf stream, carries off rapidly the waters in the Atlantic; while, on the contrary, the current which flows northward along the western coast of South America, and the tide which flows into the bay of Panama, from the south-west from the Pacific, heaps, as it were for a moment, the waters into the bay and on the shores of Panama, and occasions the tides alluded to, and differing so greatly from those which are seen in the Atlantic at the short distance on the opposite coast.
From Maria Henrique to Cruces is only about nine miles. In the intermediate spaces are several savannahs, and, according to the Spanish maps, a very considerable river, called Rio de los Laxas, which enters the Chagre a little above Cruces. This river flows westward from Mount Maria Henrique; while the principal branches of the Rio Grande, which flows south into the Pacific immediately to the westward of Panama, spring from the south-west side of the mountain already mentioned. The branches of this river and of the Chagre approach very near each other; while savannahs, according to Lloyd's map, fill up, as between the Rio Grande and the Obispo, the most of the intervening space. In this short distance, and with the aid of these rivers, a water communication, were the country properly examined, it is conjectured, might be found. From Cruces the road, for a short distance, ascends considerably; after which it runs along a ridge, with a valley on each side; that on the south the deepest, being about 300 feet, and descends until it comes to a plain, through which it stretches and runs to the city of Panama. It is by quitting the old Spanish track or road, and continuing along the savannahs and levels, that it is believed the water communication adverted to could be effected; and where the distance, taking into account the short bends which may be necessary, is so short, probably not twenty miles!
These observations naturally call the attention to the consideration ofa line of communication which may be had from the River Trinidad to the Pacific, either at Panama or a little to the westward of that town, in the bay of Chorera, at the mouth of the Rio Caymito. The condition of the country in that portion of the Isthmus has already been generally described, on the authority of Mr. Lloyd; and from what he has stated, and which is in unison with other information, not a doubt can remain that a water communication can be opened up in this quarter from sea to sea. Lines for railroads have already been chalked out in both places alluded to; and considered so easy that the sum of 400,000 dollars is estimated as the whole expense necessary to complete either. It is scarcely necessary to observe, that wherever a rail-road can be constructed, a canal may be made. The River Trinidad is a branch of the Chagre, which comes from the westward and from the south-westward, and joins the latter at about eight miles due S. W. from its mouth. The Trinidad is navigable to Embracadero, and for some distance, from its mouth, is both broad and deep. Its branches penetrate a considerable way into the country, and approach closely to the branches of the Caymito, a considerable stream, which flows through a country, in its lower course, comparatively level; while between its upper course and the Trinidad the distance is covered with savannahs and small conical hills, and in some places marshy plains—a complete proof of the level nature of the country. The streams which rise to the westward of the line alluded to, namely, in the hills stretching to the province of Veragua, mostly flow into the Chagre, another proof of the direction in which the mountains in this quarter lay; and that there is no continued chain, as has been stated, extending in the centre of the Isthmus throughout, and joining together the Andes of North and South America. From the junction of the Trinidad with the Chagre to Panama is only 26½ miles, and to the mouth of the Chorera 23 miles!
Short, however, as the distances just mentioned are, they are considerably reduced, when the navigation of the Trinidad on the one side, and of the Caymito on the other, are taken into account. These reduce the greater distance at least one-half; and in it, as well as the lesser distance, the nature of the country, fora considerable portion of the distance, if not throughout the whole distance, overcomes almost every obstacle, or rather renders every obstacle that may offer, possible to be overcome. From that portion of the River Chagre, which is level with high-water mark at Panama, south-westward to that city, the country is interspersed with savannahs, and consequently level. Indeed, for "a few miles" inwards from Panama, theplainsare below the level of the sea, thus rendering the formation of a canal easy; while, on the north side of the most elevated spot, the numerous streams which spring and flow to the Chagre would afford an abundant supply of water for any canal that may be constructed, however large that may be. The distance, therefore, where any serious difficulty could occur, must be reduced to a mile or two; and in that distance, should any of those conical mountains, from 300 to 500 feet high, or insulated ridges of inconsiderable height, which Mr. Lloyd tells us are here and there to be found in these places—should any such intervene, they may be cut through without any great difficulty. The excess in the rise of the tide in the Pacific, nearly 21 feet above its rise in the Atlantic, would tend greatly to accelerate the construction, in this part of America, of a water communication; which water communication, however, be it observed, must be sufficient to admit the passage through it of ships of the very highest tonnage, and at all seasons; otherwise it will not answer the general purpose, nor interests of the world. Less might indeed suit for the conveyance of mails; but any thing less would occasion such an additional expense in unloading, transporting, and again loading goods, as would render the tedious navigation of Cape Horn preferable.
The next to be considered, and perhaps the last and the best channel by which a communication between the Atlantic and the Pacific could be opened up, and safely carried on, is through central America, or the Republic of Guatemala, by means of the River St. Juan and the Lakes Nicaragua and Managua, or, asthe latter is more generally called, Leon. These lakes are connected with each other by a river, and are navigable for ships; Nicaragua for ships of the line. The River St. Juan forms the outlet of both into the Atlantic Ocean, and is, according to Estella, navigable throughout its course for ships of large burden. The mouth of the St. Juan, according to the late survey by Capt. Owen, lays in 10°53' N. lat. and in 83°40' W. long. Leon, the capital of the province in which Lake Managua is situated, and from which the name of Leon is generally given to the latter, stands, according to the best Spanish authorities, in 12°20' N. lat. and 86°45' W. long.; and its port, Rialejo, on the Pacific, in 12°29'50" N. lat., and 87°6' W. long. From the mouth of the River St. Juan to Rialejo, in a bearing of N. 66° W. the distance is 235 miles; and this bearing runs nearly through the centre of the lakes and the course of the River St. Juan. From the point where the River St. Juan issues from the Lake Nicaragua to the point where the River Lapita, which issues from Lake Managua, falls into the former, the distance, taken on the best maps, is about 95 miles. Rialejo is situated on a river of the same name, which is deep, and capable of holding in the harbour 200 sail of the largest ships. The harbour is well protected from the force of the Pacific, and from storms, by an island stretching out before it, with two channels between it and the main land; the one opening to the south-east, and the other to the north-west. The adjacent country is very fertile, but the place itself is reckoned unhealthy, owing to some swamps in the vicinity and to the southward; but which, it is believed, might be drained and cleared, which would render the climate salubrious, or, at least, as much so as any tropical climate can be to Europeans.
Lake Nicaragua, in its broadest part, is about 35 miles: it has several considerable islands, some of them active volcanoes, and all of them fertile. The country around its shores is stated to be very healthy and very fertile, and studded with high peaks, mostly volcanic, and many of them, on both sides, volcanoes in activity. At the point on its north-east corner, where the River St. Juan issues from it, there is (according to some of our best maps) erected the castle of St. Carlos; and lowerdown, about 16 miles on the banks of the river, is placed the castle of St. Juan, which castle was taken by the English in 1780. Alcedo says that this river is navigable for ships of large size; but others add, that during the dry season, when the river is low, in one or two places the navigation is obstructed by sand banks, which, however, could easily be removed by a deepening machine, such as that used for a similar purpose on the Clyde. Lake Managua in its western shore approaches in its southern portion to within 8 to 9 miles of the Pacific; and here the conical peak range appears to be discontinued and broken. So also it is in the route from Leon to Rialejo, a distance of 21 miles. The next nearest point of communication is to the southward of the town of Grenada, situate on the upper part of Lake Nicaragua, westward to the port of St. Juan, which runs considerably into the country from the Pacific. Here the distance from the lake to the sea is 10 miles. The next point of communication is from the neighbourhood of the town of Nicaragua to the bottom of the Gulf of Papagayo, the distance being about 15 miles. The river Partido flows from the S. E. through a course of fully 60 miles, and enters the Pacific at the bottom of the Gulf of Papagayo. At this point, also, the volcanic peaks and the ridge appear to be interrupted, and very low, thereby rendering a passage more probable and easy. On the neck of land, also, between the upper part of Lake Nicaragua and the Pacific, there are situated in three different places between the Pacific and the interior part, three lakes, which, while it shows the low nature of the coast, tends also to shorten very considerably in this otherwise very narrow neck (12 miles), the space that intervenes between the lake and the ocean.
The American coast of the Pacific is, in fact, bordered with an alluvial plain, varying in breadth, which tends still more to lessen the breadth of the high lands in every quarter. Between the bottom of the Gulf of Papagayo to Lake Nicaragua, the distance, the alluvial strip included, is, (see Journal R. G. S. vol. vi.), only 29,880 English yards, nearly 15 geographical miles. The highest point of land that intervenes, is only 133½ Spanish feet (the Spanish foot is 0.9267 English) above the level of the sea,and only 19 feet above the level of the lake. The lake is very deep, and at this point is said to be 15 fathoms. The surface of the lake is thus 133½ Spanish feet above the level of both oceans. The tide in the Pacific in the Gulf of Papagayo rises about 11 feet, decreasing in its rise towards the north, and increasing its rise towards the south. When Mr. Canning proclaimed that he had "called a new world into existence," he ought, as he then might, to have kept these places, the key to both worlds, in his power, and in the power of his country.
Some Spanish authorities state, that Lake Nicaragua has a communication with the Pacific, but at what point does not appear, nor is it probable. Others state that it has a tide in it like the ocean; and if so, this certainly indicates a communication with it by some low and level channel, where the tide from the sea drives back the flow of waters from the lake. To ascertain these points are objects of great importance, and well worthy the attention of the civilized world; and the wonder is, that it has not before this time been attempted. All the old and best Spanish writers, who wrote either from access to the best materials, or from practical information regarding the Spanish territories in South America, but more especially Estalla and Alcedo, mention, in the most pointed manner, that, by the places which have just been considered, the nearest and the safest channel would be found, nay actually existed, whereby a communication could be opened up between the Atlantic and the Pacific; and farther, that the possession and the command of Fort St. Juan and the river St. Juan on the one hand, and of the port of Rialejo on the other, gave the holder and possessor of them the key to and the command of both oceans. Like the Gulf of Darien, all entrance into or examination of this quarter of America by foreigners, or travellers in general, was prohibited by the Spanish government, under the punishment of death for a violation of the law. The Spaniards were particularly averse to and jealous of England, or Englishmen, becoming acquainted with this portion of America.
In some one of the points mentioned, and most probably from Lake Managua to Rialejo, or from Lake Nicaragua to the Gulf of Papagayo, the best line for a communication between theAtlantic and the Pacific will be found. The shores of Lake Nicaragua are tolerably well cultivated, and it has several harbours. Numerous streams flow into it from all sides, but particularly from the north. The river St. Juan is a considerable stream—as large, say the Spanish writers, as the Guadalquiver in its lower course. In a distance so short, a canal, fit to bear ships of the very largest tonnage, could be cut, at certainly no very heavy expense; say, at the rate of 300,000l.for 10 miles. Even if the river St. Juan should not be found to be navigable, and that it might be most advisable to cut a canal along its banks, from the Atlantic to the lake, the distance is not very great (45 or 50 miles), and the country presents no insuperable obstacles to it; on the contrary, it is believed to be easy of access. This distance might be cut for 675,000l.—a small sum even joined to the other, when the immense object to be attained is considered. The choice of position, after considering attentively every point, will remain between Chagre to Panama, and between St. Juan and Nicaragua to Rialejo, as to which is the best line for a water communication; for it is pretty clear that the lines to the eastward and to the southward of Panama, narrow although the neck of land certainly is in these parts, can only be looked to as points for a speedy road communication in some, and for small craft in the others.
The jealousy of the government of Spain formerly sealed up every possible line of communication between the Atlantic and the Pacific, in all the places mentioned, from the rest of the world; and it is probable that the jealousy, and also the poverty and inability of the new governments lately started up in these parts may continue to do so, if they are allowed to do so, or if they remain unaided in the enterprise by foreign capital, and not be impelled thereto by foreign, but particularly European influence. A glance at the map of these parts of America, and at a map of the world, and a moment's reflection and consideration bestowed on the great interests that depend upon it, that would be laid open and connected by such a communication, is sufficient to show the prodigious benefits which would therefrom flow to the human race, and especially tothe governments and the people of North and South America, and those fine but comparatively poor and miserable portions of this globe. The treasures and the labours of nations would be well bestowed in completing such an undertaking. Laying open such a communication would do more to people, to cultivate, and to civilize the world, than any other effort—than all other efforts made by the world at large, when combined and brought together. No nation in the world is so deeply interested in seeing a proper communication through the best of the channels pointed out laid open, as Great Britain; and no other nation could so well undertake it as she can. The immense empire which is rising under her flag in New Holland; the large territory which she would thereby bring within the sphere of cultivation and civilization on the west coast of North America, to the north of Colombia River, where both the climate and the soil are good; the vast and important trade which she has with China, and may yet have with all the beautiful islands in the Pacific, with Japan, and with all Eastern Siberia; and the very great trade which she has, and would have with all the shores of America on the Pacific,—all render the attainment of the object contemplated peculiarly her interest, and peculiarly her province to undertake, support, complete, and protect, in a way and on a scale worthy of the intelligence, the enterprize, the strength, and the resources of her government and her people. The number of people, and the traffic which it would in time add to the present trade and population of the world, exceed the powers of calculation.
Taking Lake Nicaragua as the point for the communication between the two seas, the calculations which have been made as to periods and distances connected with the conveyance of mails from Europe, in order to cross the Pacific, will not be materially different from those which would arise were Panama to be chosen as the point of communication. Confining every thing to this route, it is necessary to consider and to show what advantage trade and commerce would derive from it; what extent of commerce would pass through this line of communication;, and what revenue could reasonably, and with propriety,be raised therefrom, in order to prove a remuneration for the expense of the undertaking.
The official records of British trade and commerce, and also the official records of the trade and commerce of the United States, will enable us to estimate these points just alluded to, for the present period, with considerable accuracy. From both records, the following extent and amount of imports and exports, and tonnage, engaged in transporting these, are selected; premising that, as regards both countries, the value of each is, without either freight or charges: and as regards the former, viz. Great Britain, the value taken is what is denominated, in the Customs return, "the declared value," and which, exclusive of freight and charges, is considerably below the real amount. The commerce of both states mentioned, with all the countries about to be enumerated, would most certainly pass through the channel already alluded to, besides a considerable portion more from other countries, but which is uncertain.