FOOTNOTES:

Whilst speaking of the delicacies of the table we must not omit to mention theclottedorcloutedcream of this and the neighbouring county,[18]a luxury with which the epicures of other parts are wholly unacquainted.

The town of Penzance is rapidly extending itself; new houses are continually rising in commanding situations; and, since the publication of the first edition of this work,Hot and Cold Sea Bathshave been completed upon a suitable scale of convenience. The waiting room belonging to this establishment commands a prospect of very singular beauty. St. Michael's Mount rising boldly in front, forms a striking relief to the extended line of coast which constitutes the back ground; while the undulating shores on the left, skirted by the little village of Chy'andour, are well contrasted, on the opposite side, with the busy scene of the pier, and the numerous vessels in the harbour.

In enumerating the advantages this town holds out as a residence to invalids, it deserves notice that a packet sails every Friday to the Scilly Islands, and returns on the following Tuesday. The distance is about fourteen leagues, and, with a fair wind, the passage is generally accomplished in six hours; but with contrary winds it has sometimes, though very rarely, exceeded two days.

In a town so remote from the metropolis, and in a great degree insulated from the other parts of the empire, it is not extraordinary that we should find the traces of several very ancient customs. The most singular one is, perhaps, the celebration of the Eve of Saint John the Baptist,[19]our town saint, which falls on Midsummer Eve;and that of the Eve of Saint Peter, the patron of fishermen. No sooner does the tardy sun sink into the western ocean than the young and old of both sexes, animated by the genius of the night, assemble in the town, and different villages of the bay, with lighted torches. Tar barrels having been erected on tall poles in the market place, on the pier, and in other conspicuous spots, are soon urged into a state of vivid combustion, shedding an appalling glare on every surrounding object, and which when multiplied by numerous reflections in the waves, produce at a distant view a spectacle so singular and novel as to defy the powers of description; while the stranger who issues forth to gain a closer view of the festivities of the town, may well imagine himself suddenly transported to the regions of the furies and infernal gods; or, else that he is witnessing, in the magic mirror of Cornelius Agrippa, the awful celebration of the fifth day of the Eleusinian Feast;[20]while the shrieks of the female spectators, and the triumphant yells of the torchbearers, with their hair streaming in the wind, and their flambeaus whirling with inconceivable velocity, are realities not calculated to dispel the illusion. No sooner are the torches burnt out than the numerous inhabitants engaged in the frolic, pouring forth from the quay and its neighbourhood, form a long string, and, hand in hand, run furiously through every street, vociferating "an eye,"—"an eye,"—"an eye"! At length they suddenly stop, and the two last of the string, elevating their clasped hands, forman eyeto this enormousneedle, through which thethreadof populace runs; and thus they continue to repeat the game, until weariness dissolves the union, which rarely happens before midnight.

On the following day (Midsummer day) festivities of a very different character enliven the bay; and the spectator can hardly be induced to believe that the same actors are engaged in both dramas. At about four or five o'clock in the afternoon, the country people, drest in their best apparel, pour into Penzance from the neighbouringvillages, for the purpose of performing an aquatic divertisement. At this hour the quay and pier are crowded with holiday-makers, where a number of vessels, many of which are provided with music for the occasion, lie in readiness to receive them. In a short time the embarkation is completed, and the sea continues for many hours to present a moving picture of the most animating description.

Penzance is remarkable in history for having been entered and burnt by the Spaniards, in the year 1595. From time immemorial a prediction had prevailed, that a period would arrive when "Some strangers should land on the rocks of Merlin, who should burn Paul's Church, Penzance, and Newlyn." Of the actual accomplishment of this prediction we receive a full account from Carew, from which it would appear that on the 23d of July, 1595, about two hundred men landed from a squadron of Spanish gallies, on the coast of Mousehole, when they set fire to the church of Paul, and then to Mousehole itself. Finding little or no resistance, they proceeded to Newlyn,[21]and from thence to Penzance. Sir Francis Godolphin endeavoured to inspire the inhabitants with courage to repel these assailants; but, so fascinated were they by the remembrance of the ancient prophecy, that they fled in all directions, supposing that it was useless to contend against the destiny that had been predicted. The Spaniards availing themselves of this desertion, set it on fire in different places, as they had already done to Newlyn, and then returned to their galleys, intending to renew the flames on the ensuing day; but the Cornish having recovered from their panic, and assembled in great numbers on the beach, so annoyed the Spaniards with their bullets and arrows, that they drew their galleys farther off, and availing themselves of a favourable breeze, put to sea and escaped.

It is worthy of remark, that when the Spaniards first came on shore, they actually landed on a rock called "Merlin." The historian concludes this narrative by observing that these were the only Spaniards that ever landed in England as enemies.

In recalling the historical events which have invested this town with interest, we had nearly omitted to state, that a tradition exists here, thatTobaccowas first smoked bySir Walter Raleighin Penzance, on his landing from America. Bythe Philosopher of a future age Penzance will, doubtless, as the birth place of the illustriousSir Humphry Davy, be regarded with no ordinary share of interest; and to those who may be led to perform a pilgrimage to the early laboratory of this highly gifted philosopher, the vignette at the head of the present chapter will be found materially useful in directing his steps.[22]

It would be inconsistent with the plan and objects of the present work to enter into the details of biography, that duty must be reserved for an abler pen, we shall therefore only state that the present distinguished President of the Royal Society was born in this town in the year 1779, and that after having received the earlier part of his education underDr. Cardewat Truro, he was placed with a respectable professional gentleman of Penzance, of the name ofTonkin, in order that he might acquire a knowledge of the profession of a surgeon and apothecary. His early proofs of genius, however, having attracted a gentleman well known for his strong perception of character, he was fortunately removed to a field better calculated to call forth the latent energies of his mind. The result is too well known to require comment.

In the vicinity of the town are delightful walks through shady dingles, and over swelling hills, from whose summits we catch the most delicious sea and land prospects; and which are not a little heightened in beauty and effect by the glowing aerial tints so remarkably displayed in this climate at the rising and setting of the sun. Here too the Botanist may cull, in his rambles, a great variety of rare indigenous plants; with a catalogue[23]of which we shall now close the present chapter.

LIST OF INDIGENOUS PLANTS OF WESTERN CORNWALL.Alisma Damasonium (Star-headed Water Plantain) between Penzance and Marazion.A—— Ranuncoloides. Marazion Marsh.Anchusa Officinalis (Common Alkanet) St. Ives, &c.Anethum Fœniculum, common near Marazion.A—— Graveolens. Marazion Marsh.Aquilegia Vulgaris (Common Columbine) St. Ives, Goldsithney, &c.Antirrhinum Orontium (Lesser Snapdragon) Gulval, Land's End.A—— Montspessilanum (Bee Orchis) Penhryn.Anthemis Nobilis (Common Chamomile) passim.Anthyllis Vulneraria (dwarf with a red flower.) (Kidney-Vetch,Ladies' Finger). Downs, Whitsand Bay.Aspidium Oriopteris (Heath Shield-fern) Gear Stamps and New Mill.Aspidium Dilatatum. Variety. (Great Crested ditto) Moist Banks.Asplenium Marinum (Sea Spleenwort) St. Michael's Mount, Land's End, Logan rock.A—— Lanceolatum (Lanceolate ditto) Gulval, St. Michael's Mount, Lemorna Cove, &c.Bartsia Viscosa (Yellow Viscid Bartsia) Cornfields near Hayle.Brassica Oleracea (Sea Cabbage) Cliffs, Penzance.Briza Minor (Small Quaking-grass) Cornfields between Gulval and Ludgvan.Bunias Cakile (Sea Rocket) Beach between Penzance and Newlyn.Campanula Hederacea (Ivy-leaved Bell-flower) Trevaylor Bottom, Gear Stamps, &c.Chironia Littoralis (Sea Centaury) Beach between Penzance and Marazion.Cochlearia Officinalis (Common Scurvy-grass) Cliffs near the Sea, common.Convolvulus Soldanella (Sea Bindweed) Whitsand Bay, Marazion Green.Cucsuta Epithymum (Lesser Dodder) common upon Gorse.Cynosurus Echinatus (Rough Dog's-tail Grass) Ludgvan.Daucus Maritimus (Wild Carrot) Land's end, Logan rock, Botallack, &c.Dicranum Cerviculatum (Red-necked Forked Moss) Gulval, Scilly.D—— Crispum (Curled ditto) St. Mary's, Scilly.Drosera Longifolia (Long-leaved Sun-dew) Marsh between Marazion and Penzance.Erica Vagans (Cornish Heath) Lizard Peninsula.Erodium Maritimum (Sea Stork's Bill) Sea shore, common.E—— Cicutarium (Hemlock's Stork's Bill) ditto.Eryngium Maritimum (Sea Holly) Sea shore, common.Euphorbia Peplis (Purple Spurge) Marazion Green.E—— Portlandica (Portland ditto) Scilly Islands.Exacum Filiforme (Least Gentianella) Marazion Marsh, beyond the half way houses.Genista Pilosa (Hairy Green-weed) Kynance Cove.Gentiana Campestris (Field Gentian) Downs, Whitsand Bay, Lizard, &c.Geranium Columbinum (Long-stalked Crane's-bill) Ludgvan.G—— Sanguineum (Bloody Crane's bill) Kynance Cove.Glaucium Luteum (Yellow Horned Poppy) Scilly Islands.Helleborus Viridis (Green Hellebore) between Rosmorran and Kenegie, near the brook.Herniaria Hirsuta (Hairy Rupture wort) between Mullion and the Lizard.Hookeria Lucens (Shining Feather-moss) Trevaylor Bottom. Between Rosmorran and Kenegie.Hymenophyllum Tunbridgense (Filmy-leaved fern) Among the loose stones at Castle An Dinas, on the east side.Hypnum Scorpioides (Scorpion Feather-moss) Gulval, Zennor, &c.H—— Alopecurum, variety (Fox-tail ditto) Gulval.Illecebrum Verticillatum (Whorled Knot-grass) Gulval, Gear Stamps, Land's end.Inula Helenium (Elecampane) Gulval, The Mount, St. Ives, Scilly.Iris Fœtidissima (Stinking Iris,Roast Beef Plant) Madron.Linum Angustifolium (Narrow-leaved pale Flax) St. Ives.L—— Usitatissimum. Near Redruth.Littorella Lacustris (Plantain Shoreweed). In a watery lane near Penzance.Mentha Odorata (Bergamot Mint) Burian.M—— Rotundifolia (Round-leaved Mint) Between Penzance and Newlyn, Whitsand Bay.Myrica Gale (Sweet Gale,Dutch Myrtle) Marsh, Gulval, and Ludgvan.Neckera Heteromalla (Lateral Neckera) Trevaylor Bottom, Try, &c.Neottia Spiralis. Between Penzance and Marazion.Orchis Pyramidalis (Pyramidal Orchis) near Hayle.Ornithogalum Umbellatum (Common Star of Bethlehem) near Marazion.Ornithopus Perpusillus (Common Bird's-foot) Gulval, Carne, &c.Osmunda Regalis (Royal Moonwort) Poltair.Panicum Dactylum (Creeping Panick Grass) Marazion Beach.Pinguicula Lusitanica (Pale Butterwort) Bogs in the neighbourhood.Pyrethrum Maritimum (Sea Feverfew) Sea-shore.Rubia Peregrina (Wild Madder) Hayle-Helston, &c.Reseda Luteola (Wild Woad,Dyer's Weed) Coarse lands beyond Marazion.Rumex Sanguineus (Bloody-veined Dock) Gulval.Ruscus Aculeatus (Butcher's Broom) Lemorna Cove, &c.Salvia Verbenacea (Wild English Clary) St. Ives, Scilly, &c.Samolus Valerandi (Brook-weedorWater Pimpernel) Land's end, &c.Santolina Maritima (Sea Cotton weed) Marazion beach.Saponaria Officinalis (Soap-wort) St. Levan, Tresco Island, Scilly.Saxifraga Stellaris (Hairy Saxifrage) Logan rock.Scilla Verna (Vernal Squill) St. Ives, near Zennor, Morvah, opposite to Three Stone Oar.Scirpus Fluitans (Floating Club Rush) Gulval Marsh.Scutellaria Minor (Lesser Skull-cap) Bogs, Gulval.Scrophularia Scorodonia (Balm-leaved Figwort) St. Ives, Gulval, and Chyandour, plentifully.Sedum Anglicum (English Stonecrop) very common.S—— Telephium (OrpineorLivelong) Logan rock.Sibthorpia Europæa (Cornish Moneywort) Moist banks, Gulval, Madron Well, Trereife Avenue; Helston, &c.Silene Anglica (English Catchfly) common in Cornfields.Solidago Virgaurea (Common Golden-rod) Penzance, &c.Spergula Nodosa (Knotted Spurrey) near Marazion.Spiræa Filipendula (Common Dropwort) Kynance Cove.Stachys Arvensis (Corn Woundwort) Cornfields, common.Tamarix Gallica (French Tamarisk) The Mount-Lizard, Scilly Islands, but very probably introduced.Trichostomum Polyphyllum (Fringe Moss) Gulval, Kenegie, &c.Trifolium Subterraneum (Subterraneous Trefoil) near the Sea-shore.Verbascum Nigrum (Dark Mullein) Gulval.Utricularia Vulgaris (Common Bladderwort) between Rosmorran and Kenegie.

LIST OF INDIGENOUS PLANTS OF WESTERN CORNWALL.

Alisma Damasonium (Star-headed Water Plantain) between Penzance and Marazion.A—— Ranuncoloides. Marazion Marsh.Anchusa Officinalis (Common Alkanet) St. Ives, &c.Anethum Fœniculum, common near Marazion.A—— Graveolens. Marazion Marsh.Aquilegia Vulgaris (Common Columbine) St. Ives, Goldsithney, &c.Antirrhinum Orontium (Lesser Snapdragon) Gulval, Land's End.A—— Montspessilanum (Bee Orchis) Penhryn.Anthemis Nobilis (Common Chamomile) passim.Anthyllis Vulneraria (dwarf with a red flower.) (Kidney-Vetch,Ladies' Finger). Downs, Whitsand Bay.Aspidium Oriopteris (Heath Shield-fern) Gear Stamps and New Mill.Aspidium Dilatatum. Variety. (Great Crested ditto) Moist Banks.Asplenium Marinum (Sea Spleenwort) St. Michael's Mount, Land's End, Logan rock.A—— Lanceolatum (Lanceolate ditto) Gulval, St. Michael's Mount, Lemorna Cove, &c.Bartsia Viscosa (Yellow Viscid Bartsia) Cornfields near Hayle.Brassica Oleracea (Sea Cabbage) Cliffs, Penzance.Briza Minor (Small Quaking-grass) Cornfields between Gulval and Ludgvan.Bunias Cakile (Sea Rocket) Beach between Penzance and Newlyn.Campanula Hederacea (Ivy-leaved Bell-flower) Trevaylor Bottom, Gear Stamps, &c.Chironia Littoralis (Sea Centaury) Beach between Penzance and Marazion.Cochlearia Officinalis (Common Scurvy-grass) Cliffs near the Sea, common.Convolvulus Soldanella (Sea Bindweed) Whitsand Bay, Marazion Green.Cucsuta Epithymum (Lesser Dodder) common upon Gorse.Cynosurus Echinatus (Rough Dog's-tail Grass) Ludgvan.Daucus Maritimus (Wild Carrot) Land's end, Logan rock, Botallack, &c.Dicranum Cerviculatum (Red-necked Forked Moss) Gulval, Scilly.D—— Crispum (Curled ditto) St. Mary's, Scilly.Drosera Longifolia (Long-leaved Sun-dew) Marsh between Marazion and Penzance.Erica Vagans (Cornish Heath) Lizard Peninsula.Erodium Maritimum (Sea Stork's Bill) Sea shore, common.E—— Cicutarium (Hemlock's Stork's Bill) ditto.Eryngium Maritimum (Sea Holly) Sea shore, common.Euphorbia Peplis (Purple Spurge) Marazion Green.E—— Portlandica (Portland ditto) Scilly Islands.Exacum Filiforme (Least Gentianella) Marazion Marsh, beyond the half way houses.Genista Pilosa (Hairy Green-weed) Kynance Cove.Gentiana Campestris (Field Gentian) Downs, Whitsand Bay, Lizard, &c.Geranium Columbinum (Long-stalked Crane's-bill) Ludgvan.G—— Sanguineum (Bloody Crane's bill) Kynance Cove.Glaucium Luteum (Yellow Horned Poppy) Scilly Islands.Helleborus Viridis (Green Hellebore) between Rosmorran and Kenegie, near the brook.Herniaria Hirsuta (Hairy Rupture wort) between Mullion and the Lizard.Hookeria Lucens (Shining Feather-moss) Trevaylor Bottom. Between Rosmorran and Kenegie.Hymenophyllum Tunbridgense (Filmy-leaved fern) Among the loose stones at Castle An Dinas, on the east side.Hypnum Scorpioides (Scorpion Feather-moss) Gulval, Zennor, &c.H—— Alopecurum, variety (Fox-tail ditto) Gulval.Illecebrum Verticillatum (Whorled Knot-grass) Gulval, Gear Stamps, Land's end.Inula Helenium (Elecampane) Gulval, The Mount, St. Ives, Scilly.Iris Fœtidissima (Stinking Iris,Roast Beef Plant) Madron.Linum Angustifolium (Narrow-leaved pale Flax) St. Ives.L—— Usitatissimum. Near Redruth.Littorella Lacustris (Plantain Shoreweed). In a watery lane near Penzance.Mentha Odorata (Bergamot Mint) Burian.M—— Rotundifolia (Round-leaved Mint) Between Penzance and Newlyn, Whitsand Bay.Myrica Gale (Sweet Gale,Dutch Myrtle) Marsh, Gulval, and Ludgvan.Neckera Heteromalla (Lateral Neckera) Trevaylor Bottom, Try, &c.Neottia Spiralis. Between Penzance and Marazion.Orchis Pyramidalis (Pyramidal Orchis) near Hayle.Ornithogalum Umbellatum (Common Star of Bethlehem) near Marazion.Ornithopus Perpusillus (Common Bird's-foot) Gulval, Carne, &c.Osmunda Regalis (Royal Moonwort) Poltair.Panicum Dactylum (Creeping Panick Grass) Marazion Beach.Pinguicula Lusitanica (Pale Butterwort) Bogs in the neighbourhood.Pyrethrum Maritimum (Sea Feverfew) Sea-shore.Rubia Peregrina (Wild Madder) Hayle-Helston, &c.Reseda Luteola (Wild Woad,Dyer's Weed) Coarse lands beyond Marazion.Rumex Sanguineus (Bloody-veined Dock) Gulval.Ruscus Aculeatus (Butcher's Broom) Lemorna Cove, &c.Salvia Verbenacea (Wild English Clary) St. Ives, Scilly, &c.Samolus Valerandi (Brook-weedorWater Pimpernel) Land's end, &c.Santolina Maritima (Sea Cotton weed) Marazion beach.Saponaria Officinalis (Soap-wort) St. Levan, Tresco Island, Scilly.Saxifraga Stellaris (Hairy Saxifrage) Logan rock.Scilla Verna (Vernal Squill) St. Ives, near Zennor, Morvah, opposite to Three Stone Oar.Scirpus Fluitans (Floating Club Rush) Gulval Marsh.Scutellaria Minor (Lesser Skull-cap) Bogs, Gulval.Scrophularia Scorodonia (Balm-leaved Figwort) St. Ives, Gulval, and Chyandour, plentifully.Sedum Anglicum (English Stonecrop) very common.S—— Telephium (OrpineorLivelong) Logan rock.Sibthorpia Europæa (Cornish Moneywort) Moist banks, Gulval, Madron Well, Trereife Avenue; Helston, &c.Silene Anglica (English Catchfly) common in Cornfields.Solidago Virgaurea (Common Golden-rod) Penzance, &c.Spergula Nodosa (Knotted Spurrey) near Marazion.Spiræa Filipendula (Common Dropwort) Kynance Cove.Stachys Arvensis (Corn Woundwort) Cornfields, common.Tamarix Gallica (French Tamarisk) The Mount-Lizard, Scilly Islands, but very probably introduced.Trichostomum Polyphyllum (Fringe Moss) Gulval, Kenegie, &c.Trifolium Subterraneum (Subterraneous Trefoil) near the Sea-shore.Verbascum Nigrum (Dark Mullein) Gulval.Utricularia Vulgaris (Common Bladderwort) between Rosmorran and Kenegie.

FOOTNOTES:[9]Penzance signifies, in Cornish,Holy-head, i. e.holy headland; and the town appears to have been so called in consequence of a small chapel, dedicated to that universal patron of fishermen, Saint Anthony, having formerly stood on the projecting point near the present quay. When it became necessary to adopt arms for the town, the true origin of its name was forgotten or overlooked, and the holy head of Saint John emblazoned. It would, however, appear from theLiber valorum, thatBuritonwas the old name of Penzance,—a sound which to the ear of the antiquary is full of historical intelligence, for the addition ofBuryto the name of a town signified that it was a town with a castle; thus,Buritonsignified Bury-town, i. e. the Castle town. Some cellars near the quay are to this day called theBarbicancellars; thus tradition points out the castle to have been upon, or near, the site of the present chapel.[10]Penzance was first incorporated in the reign of king James, in 1614; which charter was confirmed by Charles II.[11]The history of these funds exhibits a curious instance of the increase in value which property undergoes, in a series of years, from the progressive improvements of the district in which it lies. The revenue of the Corporation, nearly £2000 per annum, is derived from an estate which was purchased from one Daniel, in the year 1614, for the sum of £34, and 20 shillings a year fee farm rent, payable out of the same to the vender and his representatives for ever. This estate is described in the writings to be "a three corner plot with a timber house (then) lately erected thereon, together with the tolls, profits, and dues of the fairs, markets, and of the pier." The increase of its value has arisen from the enlargement of the market now held on the spot, and from the dues arising from the improved and extended pier.[12]We are desirous of recording this fact since it continues to be erroneously stated in the publication called the "Coasting Pilot," as well as in all charts, to be only 13 feet, as it was before the improvements. From the perpetuation of this error the masters of vessels unacquainted with the place, refuse to credit the pilots, when informed by them of the depth of the water.[13]The operation is termed "Coining," not, as is very generally supposed, from the stamping of the Duke's arms, but from the cutting off thecornerof each block, from the French wordcoin, acorner. For every cwt. so stamped, the Duke receives four shillings, producing an annual revenue of £10,000.[14]Since the first edition, the place of coinage has been changed from the middle of the town to a large area near the quay.[15]The rooms originally occupied by the Society, and which are represented in the vignette at the head of this chapter, becoming too small to accommodate the growing collection, a capacious and handsome suite of rooms were erected in the year 1817; to which are now attached a public library, and a room for the reception of newspapers. The former was established in 1818, under the auspices of Sir Rose Price, Bart. and with the support of above a hundred subscribers in the neighbourhood.[16]See a paper "On Elvan Courses," by J. Carne, Esq. in the first volume of the Royal Geological Society of Cornwall.[17]TheCowelis the provincial name of the peculiar basket in which they convey their fish, and is carried by means of a string round their hats, as represented above. Its name has been supposed to have been derived from its resemblance in position and appearance to the Monk'scowl.[18]The custom of obtaining the cream from new milk by coagulation from heat, is peculiar to Devonshire, Cornwall, and the opposite coast of Brittany, and is supposed to be of Celtic origin. The butter obtained by beating up this cream does not differ much in flavour from that procured by churning new cream, except the process be carelessly conducted, when it will acquire a smoky taste.[19]It is reasonable to advert to the Summer Solstice for this custom, although brought into the Christian Calendar under the sanction of John the Baptist. Those sacred fires "kindled about midnight, on the moment of the Solstice by the great part of the ancient and modern nations. The origin of which loses itself in antiquity;" SeeGebelin, and alsoBrand's Observations on Popular Antiquities.[20]The fifth day of the Eleusinian feast was called "the day of the Torches," because at night the men and women ran about with them in imitation of Ceres, who, having lighted a torch at the fire of Mount Ætna, wandered about from place to place, in search of her daughter Proserpine. Hence may we not trace the high antiquity of this species of popular rejoicing.[21]Will not this historical fact explain the peculiar cast of beauty possessed by many of the Fish-women residing in this village.[22]The house is the first on the left of the ascending footway, and its only two small windows visible in the vignette, are situated immediately beneath the clock of the market house tower.[23]Many of these plants were enumerated in the former edition of this work, to which are now added some others, from the catalogue published by Dr. Forbes, in his observations on the climate of Penzance.

[9]Penzance signifies, in Cornish,Holy-head, i. e.holy headland; and the town appears to have been so called in consequence of a small chapel, dedicated to that universal patron of fishermen, Saint Anthony, having formerly stood on the projecting point near the present quay. When it became necessary to adopt arms for the town, the true origin of its name was forgotten or overlooked, and the holy head of Saint John emblazoned. It would, however, appear from theLiber valorum, thatBuritonwas the old name of Penzance,—a sound which to the ear of the antiquary is full of historical intelligence, for the addition ofBuryto the name of a town signified that it was a town with a castle; thus,Buritonsignified Bury-town, i. e. the Castle town. Some cellars near the quay are to this day called theBarbicancellars; thus tradition points out the castle to have been upon, or near, the site of the present chapel.

[10]Penzance was first incorporated in the reign of king James, in 1614; which charter was confirmed by Charles II.

[11]The history of these funds exhibits a curious instance of the increase in value which property undergoes, in a series of years, from the progressive improvements of the district in which it lies. The revenue of the Corporation, nearly £2000 per annum, is derived from an estate which was purchased from one Daniel, in the year 1614, for the sum of £34, and 20 shillings a year fee farm rent, payable out of the same to the vender and his representatives for ever. This estate is described in the writings to be "a three corner plot with a timber house (then) lately erected thereon, together with the tolls, profits, and dues of the fairs, markets, and of the pier." The increase of its value has arisen from the enlargement of the market now held on the spot, and from the dues arising from the improved and extended pier.

[12]We are desirous of recording this fact since it continues to be erroneously stated in the publication called the "Coasting Pilot," as well as in all charts, to be only 13 feet, as it was before the improvements. From the perpetuation of this error the masters of vessels unacquainted with the place, refuse to credit the pilots, when informed by them of the depth of the water.

[13]The operation is termed "Coining," not, as is very generally supposed, from the stamping of the Duke's arms, but from the cutting off thecornerof each block, from the French wordcoin, acorner. For every cwt. so stamped, the Duke receives four shillings, producing an annual revenue of £10,000.

[14]Since the first edition, the place of coinage has been changed from the middle of the town to a large area near the quay.

[15]The rooms originally occupied by the Society, and which are represented in the vignette at the head of this chapter, becoming too small to accommodate the growing collection, a capacious and handsome suite of rooms were erected in the year 1817; to which are now attached a public library, and a room for the reception of newspapers. The former was established in 1818, under the auspices of Sir Rose Price, Bart. and with the support of above a hundred subscribers in the neighbourhood.

[16]See a paper "On Elvan Courses," by J. Carne, Esq. in the first volume of the Royal Geological Society of Cornwall.

[17]TheCowelis the provincial name of the peculiar basket in which they convey their fish, and is carried by means of a string round their hats, as represented above. Its name has been supposed to have been derived from its resemblance in position and appearance to the Monk'scowl.

[18]The custom of obtaining the cream from new milk by coagulation from heat, is peculiar to Devonshire, Cornwall, and the opposite coast of Brittany, and is supposed to be of Celtic origin. The butter obtained by beating up this cream does not differ much in flavour from that procured by churning new cream, except the process be carelessly conducted, when it will acquire a smoky taste.

[19]It is reasonable to advert to the Summer Solstice for this custom, although brought into the Christian Calendar under the sanction of John the Baptist. Those sacred fires "kindled about midnight, on the moment of the Solstice by the great part of the ancient and modern nations. The origin of which loses itself in antiquity;" SeeGebelin, and alsoBrand's Observations on Popular Antiquities.

[20]The fifth day of the Eleusinian feast was called "the day of the Torches," because at night the men and women ran about with them in imitation of Ceres, who, having lighted a torch at the fire of Mount Ætna, wandered about from place to place, in search of her daughter Proserpine. Hence may we not trace the high antiquity of this species of popular rejoicing.

[21]Will not this historical fact explain the peculiar cast of beauty possessed by many of the Fish-women residing in this village.

[22]The house is the first on the left of the ascending footway, and its only two small windows visible in the vignette, are situated immediately beneath the clock of the market house tower.

[23]Many of these plants were enumerated in the former edition of this work, to which are now added some others, from the catalogue published by Dr. Forbes, in his observations on the climate of Penzance.

TO SAINT MICHAEL'S MOUNT."This precious stone, set in the silver sea!"Richard II. Act 2. scene 1.

The traveller no sooner catches a glimpse of this extraordinary feature in the bay, than he becomes impatient to explore it; anticipating this feeling we have selected it as an object for his first excursion, and in its performance we promise him an intellectual repast of no ordinary kind.

To proceed to the Mount, by sea, the stranger may embark at Penzance pier, from which it is not more than two miles distant; by this arrangement an opportunity will be afforded for witnessing a fine panoramic view of the coast; should, however, his inclination, or the "tyranny of the winds and waves" oppose this project, he may proceed by land through the little village ofChy'andour, over a semicircular beach covered with fine sand of about three miles in extent. Between this sand and the high road is the "Eastern Green," celebrated as the habitat of some rare plants, viz.Panicum Dactylum(in a line with Gulval church);Chironia Littoralis;Alisma Damasonium;Neottia Spiralis;Euphorbia Peplis;Euphorbia Paralias;Santolina Maritima;Convolvulus Soldanella, &c. On the beach the Conchologist may collect some fine specimens of theEchinus Cordatus, which is the only shell ever found there. In the marshes on the left side of the road the common observer will be struck with the extreme luxuriance of theNymphæa alba, while the Botanist may reap an ample harvest of interesting plants, viz. splendid specimens ofMontia Fontana, as large as the figure of Micheli;Illecebrum Verticillatum;Sison Inundatum;Apium Graveolens; a rare variety ofSenechio Jacobæa;Alisma Ranunculoides;Stellaria Uliginosa;Pinguicula Lusitanica;Scirpus Fluitans;Exacum Filiforme;Drosera Longifolia;Scutellaria Minor;Myrica Gale, &c.

Before our arrival at Saint Michael's Mount, the only intermediate object worthy of notice is the town ofMarazion, orMarket Jewas it is sometimes called. It stands upon the seashore, on the eastern shoulder of the bay, and is well sheltered from cold winds by a considerable elevation of land to the north; still, however, as it is exposed to the south-west, which is the prevailing wind, it is far less eligible as a place of residence for invalids than Penzance.

The town contains more than 1100 inhabitants; its principal support, if not its origin, according to some authors, was derived from the resort of pilgrims and other religious devotees to the neighbouring sacred edifice on Saint Michael's Mount; but its name was indisputably derived from the Jews who traded here several centuries ago, and held an annualmarketfor selling various commodities, and purchasing tin, and other merchandize in return. In the reign of Queen Elizabeth it obtained a charter, vesting its government in a mayor, eight aldermen, and twelve capital burgesses, with a power to hold a weekly market, and two annual fairs. In the preamble to this charter it is stated "that Marghaisewe was a trading borough town of great antiquity, and that it suffered considerable dilapidation in the days of Edward VI., when a number of rebellious people entered, and took possession of the town, and laid many of the buildings in ruin." From this disaster the town does notappear to have ever recovered, while from the growing importance of Penzance, the suppression of the Priory, and the loss of the Pilgrims, from whom it derived its principal resources, its consequence gradually declined, until at length it dwindled into its present condition.

It has been asserted on good authority, that under this charter of Elizabeth, the town formerly sent members to Parliament, andDr. Borlasein his manuscripts, mentions the names ofThomas Westlake, andRichard Mills, Esqrs.as those of the two members who were actually returned for Marazion in the year 1658. It does not, however, appear that they ever took their seats. It would seem, moreover, from some original letters which passed between the Sheriff of Cornwall and the mayor of this borough, during the protectorate of Cromwell, that the inhabitants were solicitous to recover their long neglected rights; but this effort proved ineffectual.

In going from Marazion to the Mount, we pass a large insulated rock, known by the name of the "Chapel Rock," whereon the Pilgrims, who came to visit the Priory of Saint Michael, are said to have performed certain devotionary and superstitious ceremonies, in a kind of initiatorychapel, previous to their admission to the more sacred Mount; there is not, however, the slightest vestige of any masonry to be discovered, and it would therefore seem more probable that it merely derived its name from its vicinity to the shrine of Saint Michael. The rock is composed of well markedGreenstone, resting on a bed ofclay-slate, and which, in its direction and dip, will be found to correspond with the slaty rock on the western base of the Mount.

We arrive at Saint Michael's Mount.—The rock of which it is composed is of a conical form; gradually diminishing from a broad, craggy base, towards its summit, which is beautifully terminated by the tower of a chapel, so as to form a pyramidal figure. On its eastern base, is a small fishing town, holding about 250 inhabitants; and a commodious pier,[24]capable of containing fifty sail of small vessels, and which proves to the proprietor of the Mount a considerable source of revenue.

The height from low water mark to the top of the chapel tower is about 250 feet, being 48 feet higher than the monument in London. In circumference at the base, the Mount measures nearly a mile, and is said to contain about seven acres of land; such, however, is the effect of the vast extent of horizon, and the expanded tract of water which rolls around its base, that its real magnitude is apparently lost.

In a mineralogical point of view, this eminence is certainly the most interesting in Cornwall, or perhaps in England; who can believe that this little spot has occasioned greater controversy, and moreink-shed than any mountain in the globe? yet such is the fact; let us therefore before we ascend walk around its base and examine the geological structure which has excited so much attention. The scenery too is here of the most magnificent description; rocks overhang rocks in ruinous grandeur, and appear so fearfully equipoised, that, although secure in their immensity, they create in the mind the most awful apprehension of their instability, whilst the mighty roar of the ocean beneath, unites in effect with the scenery above.—All around is sublime.——But the Geology, enough of the picturesque.

The body of the rock is composed ofSlateandGranite; the whole northern base consists of the former, but no where does it extend to anyheight, the upper part, in every direction, consisting ofGranite. On the south side thisGranitedescends to the water's edge, and it continues to constitute the whole of the hill, both on the eastern and western side, for about three-fourths of its whole extent. Where the granite terminates numerous veins of it appear in the slate, in many different directions; while the granite in its turn, encloses patches of slate. In the vicinity of the former rock the latter is found to contain so muchMica, as to resembleMicaceous Schist, or fine grainedGneiss, for which it has been erroneously taken by some of our earlier observers. And, while at some of these junctions there would seem to be a mere apposition of the two rocks, at others, the intermixture is so complete as to render it difficult to say to which of the two certain considerable masses belong.

Here then is the phenomenon which has invested the spot with so much geological interest. Here isGranite, whichWernerconceived to be a primary formation, and around which he supposed all other rocks to have been deposited, if not of a later date, at least contemporaneous, in origin, with slate. How is this anomaly to be explained?De Lucat once asserts what we presume no rational observer can for one momentbelieve, that the rock of which these veins are composed isnottrue Granite, but "Pseudo-granite"!Dr. Bergerattempts to surmount the difficulty by a different expedient, and declares thatthey are not veins!but prominences from the granite beneath, which have been filled up by the subsequent deposition of clay-slate. It might, saysSir H. Davy,[25]with nearly as much reason be stated, that the veins of copper and tin belong to a great interior metallic mass, and that they existed prior to the rocks in which they are found. The advocates of the Plutonian theory have, as might have been supposed, eagerly availed themselves of the support which this phenomenon is so well calculated to afford their favourite doctrine. They accordingly affirm that the granite has been raised up through the incumbent slate, into whose fissures it has insinuated itself. Upon these theories we shall offer no comment; it is the humble task of a "Guide" merely to direct the attention of the traveller to the phenomena themselves, and then to leave him to deduce his own conclusions from their appearance. In the fulfilment of this duty we recommend the geologist to proceed to the western base of the Mount, where he will find near the water's edge, what have been considered byDr. Thomsonas "two large beds of granite in the slate, with veins running off from them; the position and appearance of which are such as to leave no doubt but that the great body of the granite has been deposited posterior to the slate formation."Mr. Carne, on the other hand, contends that "these granitic bodies cannot with any propriety be called 'Beds in the Slate;' one of them," says he, "is a granite vein, and although six feet wide near the granite mass, it becomes gradually smaller as it recedes, and dwindles to a point at the distance of 80 feet. The other is a part of the granitic mass, from which some veins appear to diverge; and, inno partdoes it overlie the slate."[26]

The whole body of the Granite of the Mount is traversed by an uninterrupted series of quartz veins, which run parallel to each other with wonderful regularity. They are very nearly vertical, and their direction is east and west. On the north-east side of the Mount many of them can be traced into the incumbent slate; a circumstance which strongly supports the idea of the cotemporaneous origin of these two rocks. In the investigation of these veins the Mineralogistmay pass many an hour with satisfaction, we shall therefore point out some of the more leading phenomena which deserve his attention.De Lucobserved that "that part of the vein termed in Cornwall theCapel, and on the ContinentSelebanque, and which is the first stratum adherent to the sides of the fissures, changes as it passes through different kinds of strata, sometimes consisting of whiteQuartz, sometimes ofMica."Dr. Forbes[27]says, that "occasionally, though rarely, the line of division between the vein and the rock is tolerably distinct; frequently, however, there is rather an insensible gradation of the matter of the one into that of the other, than an obvious apposition of surfaces." The exterior parts of the veins consist of a bluishquartz, very compact, and uniformly containing a great deal ofSchorl. Thisschorlaceouscharacter is much more distinct towards the sides or walls of the veins, their centre being generally purequartz; and, commonly, crystallized. In most of the veins there is a central line, or fissure, which divides them into two portions; this is formed by the close apposition and occasional union of two crystallized, or, as they may be called,drusysurfaces.

Since Veins must be considered as having once been the most active laboratories of Nature, so may they now be regarded as her most valuable cabinets of mineralogy. In those of Saint Michael's Mount may be found crystals ofApatite, from a very light to a very dark green colour, and exhibiting most of the modifications of form[28]which are common to that mineral;Oxide of Tin;Felspar;Micabeautifully crystallized in tables;Topazin small whitish or greenish crystals,[29]both translucent and opaque, and which are extremely numerous, many hundred being observable on the face of some small blocks of granite that have fallen from the precipices.

Pinitehas been said to have been also discovered in this spot. Besides which may be found that rare mineral, theTriple Sulphuret of Copper,Antimony, and Lead;Sulphuret of Tin;Malachite;Fluor Spar; andWolfram. The occurrence of this latter mineral was, we believe, first noticed in the earlier edition of the present work, and is important in as far as its presence is generally supposed to afford decisive evidence of the primitive formation of the mountain masses in which it occurs.

This spot also presents us with several lodes ofTinandCopper; the latter may be traced for a considerable distance from the eastern to the southern base of the hill. Thelodeof Tin was formerly worked at the Mount, and a considerable quantity of ore obtained; any farther excavation, however, threatened to injure the foundations of the castle, and it was therefore prudently abandoned.

The remains of the Mine may be seen on the south side of the hill, and should be visited by the mineralogist, who will find in theDrift,[30]Tin crystalsandCarbonate of Copper, besides some other minerals. Veins of Lead are also discoverable in the rocks.Mr. Carne[31]has lately directed the attention of the mineralogist to theveinsofMica, which have hitherto only been found in the granite of this singular spot. They are seldom more than half an inch wide; and, although tolerably straight, are very short. They generally consist of two layers of Mica in plates, which meet in the centre of the veins. Some of the masses ofGranitewhich constitute the summit of the Mount have the appearance of an old wall retaining, in parts, a coating of plaster; this is the effect of decomposition, and of thecapelhaving in many places remained attached to the face of the rock, after the vein itself has crumbled down.

The Botanist will also find some amusement among the rocks; he will observe the Tamarisk, (Tamarix Gallica) growing in their crevices, and relieving by a delicate verdure the harsh uniformity of their surfaces. This shrub was probably imported from Normandy by the Monks.Asplenium MarinumandInula Heleniumare also to be seen among the rocks—but let us leave the Botanist and Mineralogist to their researches, while we climb the hill and examine the venerable building on its summit.

We ascend on the north-eastern side, by a rocky winding path, in the course of which, several remains of its ancient fortifications presentthemselves; thus, about the middle of the hill, there is a curtain, parallel to, and flanking the approach, at whose western end is a ravelin, through which every one is to pass, walled with three embrasures, and at the angle in the eastern shoulder is a centry box to guard the passage, and there was formerly also an iron gate; after having passed this ruin, we turn to our left, and ascend by a flight of broken steps to the door of the castle, whose appearance is much more monastic than martial. The most ancient parts of the building are the Entrance, with the Guardroom on the left hand; the Chapel, and the former Refectory, or common hall of the Monks. The other parts are of a modern date, although the style of their architecture confers upon them a corresponding air of antiquity.

The Refectory, or Common Hall, from the frieze, with which it is ornamented, appears to have been fitted up, since the reformation, as a dining room for a hunting party, and is popularly denominated "The Chevy-Chace Room." The cornice represents in stucco, the modes of hunting the wild boar, bull, stag, ostrich, hare, fox, and rabbit. At the upper end of this room are the royal arms, with the date 1644; and, at the opposite end, those of the St. Aubyn family. Theroom is 33 feet long, 16 wide, and 18 high, and has a solemn and imposing appearance, which is not a little heightened by the antique and appropriate character of its furniture and ornaments.

The Chapel exhibits a venerable monument of Saxon architecture; its interior has lately been renewed in a chaste style of elegance, and a magnificent organ has been erected. During these repairs, in levelling a platform for the altar, under the eastern window, a low gothic door was discovered to have been closed up with stone in the southern wall, and then concealed with the raised platform; when the enclosure was broken through, ten steps appeared descending into a stone vault under the church, about nine feet long, six or seven broad, and nearly as many high. In this room was found the skeleton of a very large man, without any remains of a coffin. The discovery, of course, gave rise to many conjectures, but it seems most probable, that the man had been there immured for some crime. The bones were removed and buried in the body of the chapel. At the same time upon raising the old pavement, the fragment of an inscribed sepulchral stone of some Prior was taken up; there was also a grave stone, not inscribed, which Antiquaries have supposed to havecovered the remains ofSir John Arundel, of Trerice, Knight, who was slain on the strand below, in the wars of York and Lancaster. In the tower of this chapel are six sweet toned bells, which frequently ring whenSir John St. Aubynis resident; at this time also choral service is performed; and, on a calm day, the undulating sound of the bells, and the swelling note of the organ, as heard on the water, produce an effect which it is impossible to describe.

From the chapel, we may ascend by a narrow stone stair-case to the top of the tower. The prospect hence is of the grandest description, and is perhaps as striking as any that can occur to "mortal eye." "The immense extent of sea," saysDr. Maton, "raises the most sublime emotions, the waves of the British, Irish, and Atlantic seas all roll within the compass of the sight," whilst the eye is relieved from the uniform, though imposing grandeur of so boundless an horizon, by wandering on the north and west, over a landscape, which Claude himself might have transfused on his canvas.

On one of the angles of this tower is to be seen the carcase of a stone lantern, in which, during the fishing season, and in dark tempestuous nights, it may reasonably be supposed that the monks,to whom the tithe of such fishery belonged, kept a light, as a guide to sailors, and a safeguard to their own property; this lantern is now vulgarly denominatedSaint Michael's Chair, since it will just admit one person to sit down in it; the attempt is not without danger, for the chair, elevated above the battlements, projects so far over the precipice, that the climber must actually turn the whole body at that altitude, in order to take a seat in it; notwithstanding the danger, however, it is often attempted; indeed one of the first questions generally put to a stranger, if married, after he has visited the Mount,—did you sit in the chair?—for there is a conceit that, if a married woman has sufficient resolution to place herself in it, it will at once invest her with all the regalia of petticoat government; and that if a married man sit in it, he will thereby receive ample powers for the management of his wife. This is probably a remnant of monkish fable, a supposed virtue conferred by some saint, perhaps a legacy of St. Keyne, for the same virtue is attributed to her well.

"The person of that man or wife,Whose chance, or choice attainsFirst of this sacred stream to drink,Thereby the mastery gains."

On the north-eastern side of the fabric are situated the modern apartments. They were erected by the late SirJohn St. Aubynupon the ruins of the ancient convent, in clearing away which, cart loads of human bones were dug up, and interred elsewhere, the remains probably both of the nuns and of the garrison. All that deserves notice in this part are two handsome rooms leading into each other, from which the prospect is of the most extensive description. In the first parlour, placed in niches, are two large vases, with an alto relief of statuary marble in each, relating to Hymeneal happiness.

Let us now take a review of the various interesting events, which the traditionary lore of past ages represents as having occurred at this spot, and first of the natural history of the Hill itself.

The Natural History.—The rock of the Mount has worn the same aspect for ages; tradition however whispers, that at a remote period it presented a very different appearance,—that it was cloathed with wood, and at a considerable distance from the sea! Its old Cornish name, "Carreg Lug en Kug," that is,the hoary rock in the wood, would seem to add some probability to the tradition. It appears also from the original charter of the Confessor, that the Mount wasin his time onlynighthe sea, for he describes it expressly as Saint Michaelnearthe sea, "Sanctum Michaelum qui estjuxtamare." What this distance was the charter does not inform us, but the words of Worcester, who gained his information from the legend of Saint Michael, are sufficiently decisive, "this place was originally inclosed within a very thick wood, distant from the ocean six miles, affording the finest shelter to wild beasts." With respect to the period and causes of the catastrophe which have changed the face of this country, we have already offered some observations.

Ecclesiastical History.—The Mount appears to have been consecrated by superstition from the earliest period; and, according to monkish legends, from the supposed appearance of the archangel Saint Michael to some hermits, upon one of its craggy points. Tradition has not preserved the place where the vision appeared, but antiquarianism has attempted to supply the deficiency by conjecture; the spot was denominated "Saint Michael's Chair," and is said to be one of the large rocks overhanging the battery, an appellation which has been erroneously transferred to the carcase of a stone lantern, situated, as we have just stated, on the tower of the chapel.Our poet Milton alludes to this vision in the following passage of his Lycidas—

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