The foundation of the whole is a stupendous group of Granite rocks, which rise in pyramidal clusters to a prodigious altitude, and overhang the sea. On one of those pyramids is situated the celebrated "Logan Stone," which is an immense block of Granite weighing above 60 tons. The surface in contact with the under rock is of very small extent, and the whole massis so nicely balanced, that, notwithstanding its magnitude, the strength of a single man applied to its under edge is sufficient to change its centre of gravity, and though at first in a degree scarcely perceptible, yet the repetition of such impulses, at each return of the stone, produces at length a very sensible oscillation! As soon as the astonishment which this phenomenon excites has in some measure subsided, the stranger anxiously enquires how, and whence the stone originated—was it elevated by human means, or was it produced by the agency of natural causes?—Those who are in the habit of viewing mountain masses with geological eyes, will readily discover that the only chisel ever employed has been the tooth of time—the only artist engaged, the elements. Granite usually disintegrates into rhomboidal and tabular masses, which by the farther operation of air and moisture gradually lose their solid angles, and approach the spheroidal form.De Lucobserved, in the Giant mountains of Silesia, spheroids of this description so piled upon each other as to resemble Dutch cheeses; and appearances, no less illustrative of the phenomenon, may be seen from the signal station to which we have just alluded. The fact of the upper part of the cliff being more exposed to atmosphericagency, than the parts beneath, will sufficiently explain why these rounded masses so frequently rest on blocks which still preserve the tabular form; and since such spheroidal blocks must obviously rest in that position in which their lesser axes are perpendicular to the horizon, it is equally evident that whenever an adequate force is applied they must vibrate on their point of support.
Although we are thus led to deny the Druidicaloriginof this stone, for which so many zealous antiquaries have contended, still we by no means intend to deny that the Druids employed it as an engine of superstition; it is indeed very probable that, having observed so uncommon a property, they dexterously contrived to make it answer the purposes of an ordeal, and by regarding it as thetouchstoneof truth, acquitted or condemned the accused by its motions. Mason poetically alludes to this supposed property in the following lines.
"Behold yon hugeAnd unknown sphere of living adamant,Which, pois'd by magic, rests its central weightOn yonder pointed rock: firm as it seems,Such is its strange, and virtuous property,It moves obsequious to the gentlest touchOf him, whose heart is pure, but to a traitor,Tho' e'en a giant's prowess nerv'd his arm,It stands as fix'd as Snowdon."
The rocks are covered with a species ofByssuslong and rough to the touch, forming a kind of hoary beard; in many places they are deeply furrowed, carrying with them a singular air of antiquity, which combines with the whole of the romantic scenery to awaken in the minds of the poet and enthusiast the recollection of the Druidical ages. The Botanist will observe the common Thrift (Statice Armeria) imparting a glowing tinge to the scanty vegetation of the spot, and, by growing within the crevices of the rocks, affording a very picturesque contrast to their massive fabric. Here too theDaucus Maritimus, or wild carrot;Sedum Telephium,Saxifraga Stellaris, andAsplenium Marinum, may be found in abundance.
The Granite in this spot is extremely beautiful, on account of its porphyritic appearance; the crystals of felspar are numerous and distinct; in some places the rock is traversed by veins of red felspar, and of black tourmaline, or schorl, of which the crystalline forms of the prisms, on account of their close aggregation, are very indistinct. Here may also be observed a contemporaneous vein ofschorl rockin the granite, nearly two feet wide, highly inclined and very short, and not having any distinct walls. On the western side of the Logan rock is a cavern,formed by the decomposition of a vein of granite, the felspar of which assumes a brilliant flesh-red, and lilac colour; and, where it is polished by the sea, exceeding even in beauty theSerpentine cavernsat the Lizard.
Mr. Majendie observed in this spot numerous veins of fine grained granite, which he is inclined to consider ascotemporaneous; he also observed what, at first sight, appeared to be fragments, but which, upon closer examination, he pronounces to becotemporaneous concretions; for large crystals offelsparmay be seen shooting from the porphyritic granite into these apparent fragments. These phenomena are extremely interesting in a geological point of view, and well deserve the attention of the scientific tourist.
In Treryn cove, just below the site of the castle, Dr. Maton found several of the rarer species of shells, asPatella Pellucida,P. Fissura,Mytilus Modiolus,Trochus Conulus,Turbo Cimex, andT. Fascitatus(of Pennant.)
Before we quit this coast we beg to state, for the information of the geological tourist, that theGranitewhich we have just traced from beyond the Land's End to this spot, continues until within half a mile of the signal post near Lemorna cove, where it meets with a patch of slate, and islost for about the space of three quarters of a mile. At the western extremity of this junction (Carn Silver) the mineralogist will find embedded Garnet-rock with veins ofEpidoteandAxinite. Here may also be seen the rare occurrence of a granite vein penetrating both the slate and the granitic rock.
But let us return.——About two miles north-east of the Logan rock, and in the high road to Penzance, stands the town ofSaint Buryan, which though now only a group of wretched cottages was once a place of very considerable note, and the seat of a College of Augustine Canons; the latter was founded by Athelstan after his return from the conquest of the Scilly Islands, A.D. 930. The remains of the College were wantonly demolished by one Shrubshall, Governor of Pendennis Castle, during the usurpation of Cromwell.
The Church tower stands on the highest point in this part of the country, being 467 feet above the level of the sea; it consequently forms a very conspicuous object, and is so exposed to the rains from the Atlantic, that the stones carry a deceptive face of freshness with them which lends an aspect of newness to the whole building. From the top of the tower the prospect is of a veryextensive kind, commanding the whole range of the surrounding country, and an immense surface of sea. In clear weather the Scilly Islands may be easily distinguished in the horizon, especially with a setting sun, when they appear to project from the brilliant ground of the western sky like figures embossed on burnished gold.
Both from the history and appearance of this edifice the antiquary will enter it with sensations of awe and veneration, but he will find with regret that the ancient Roodloft has been lately removed, from an idea that it deadened the voice of the preacher, and that the parishioners have also converted the original forms into modern pews, a change which has cruelly violated the venerable uniformity of the interior. There is a singular monument in the church, in the shape of a coffin, having an inscription around the border in very rude characters, and now partly obliterated; it is in Norman French, and has been thus translated.
CLARICEThe wife of Geffrei de Bollait lies hereGod of her soul have mercyThey who pray for her soul shall haveTen days Pardon.
On the middle of the stone is represented a Cross fleury, standing on four steps; the monument is said to have been found many years ago by the sexton, while sinking a grave.
Opposite the great door in the church-yard stands a very ancient Cross, on one side of which are five balls, and, on the other, a rude figure intended to represent the crucified Saviour. We here present our readers with a sketch of this singular monument.
Buryan Church-yard.
Buryan Church-yard.
Buryan Church-yard.
Another Cross stands in the road, and faces the entrance into the church-yard, of which also we have introduced a delineation.
Buryan.
Buryan.
Buryan.
The Deanery is in the gift of the Crown, as a royal peculiar, and is tenable with any other preferment. The Dean exercises an independent jurisdiction in all ecclesiastical matters within the parish of St. Burian, and its dependent parishes of St. Levan, and Sennan. He is the Rector, and is entitled to all tithes. A Visitation court is held in his name, and the appeal from it is only to the King in council. Athelstan is said to have granted to this church the privilege of a Sanctuary, and a ruin overgrown with ivy; standing on an estate calledBosliven, about a mile east from the church, is thought to be its remains, but Mr. Lysons justly observes that theSanctuaryusually comprised the church itself, and perhaps a certain privileged space beyond it, and that the ruins to which the tradition attaches, are probably those only of an ancient chapel.
From St. Buryan the traveller may at once return to Penzance, which is about six miles distant, but as no object of particular interest will occur in the direct road, it is unnecessary for us to attend him thither. Should he, however, be inclined to extend his excursion, he will receive much gratification in returning by a somewhat circuitous route along the southern coast, through the parish of Saint Paul. In this case, we mayfirst proceed toBoskenna, the seat of John Paynter Esq. a highly romantic spot, abounding with woodcocks, and which under the direction of a skilful landscape gardener might be made to emulate in beauty any of the charming villas that adorn the under-cliff of the Isle of Wight. On this estate there is a superficial quarry of decomposing granite, which the mineralogist ought to visit, for the purpose of obtaining some remarkably fine specimens of felspar in separate crystals, which may be easily removed from the mass in which they lie imbedded.
AtBolleit, in a croft near Boskenna, and adjoining the high road, is to be seen a circle of stones very similar to that we have already described (p.81,) except that it has not a central pillar; the appellation given to these stones is that of the "Merry Maidens," on account of a whimsical tradition, that they were once young women transformed like Niobe into stones, as a punishment for the crime of dancing on the Sabbath day. In a field on the opposite side of the road there are two upright stones standing about a furlong asunder, the one being nearly twelve, the other sixteen feet in height. They are probably sepulchral monuments; the same ridiculous tradition, however, attaches to themas to the circle, and has accordingly bestowed upon them the appellation of the "Pipers."
AtCarn Boscawen, on this coast, is to be seen a very extraordinary group of rocks, consisting of a large flat stone, the ends of which are so poised upon the neighbouring rocks, as to leave an opening underneath;Dr. Borlase, with his accustomed zeal, insists upon its Druidical origin, and ever ready to supply the deficiency of both history and tradition by the sallies of an active imagination, very confidently informs us, that "this said opening beneath the pensile stone was designed for the seat of some considerable person, from which he might give out his edicts, and decisions, his predictions, and admissions to Noviciates"!—Risum teneatis geologici?
In our road to Saint Paul, we passTrouve, orTrewoof, an estate situated on the side of a woody hill, overlooking a romantic valley, which is terminated byLemorna Cove, a spot which should be visited by every stranger who delights in the "lone majesty of untamed Nature." Within the estate of Trouve are the remains of a triple entrenchment, in which runs a subterranean passage; and, it is said, that during the civil wars a party of Royalists were here concealed from the observation of the forces of Sir ThomasFairfax. There is a fine chalybeate spring on this estate.
AtKerris, in the parish of Paul, about five miles from Penzance, is an oval enclosure called "Roundago," which is stated to have been connected with Druidical rites; time and the Goths, however, have nearly destroyed its last remains, so that the antiquary will require the eyes of a Borlase to recognise its existence by any description hitherto given of it.
Paul Churchis a very conspicuous object from its high elevation,[45]and interests the historian from the tradition, already stated, of its having been burnt by the Spaniards, upon which occasion the south porch alone is said, in consequence of the direction of the wind, to have escaped the conflagration. A pleasing confirmation of this tradition was lately afforded during some repairs, when one of the wooden supporters was found charred at the end nearest the body of the church. It also deserves notice that the thick stone division at the back of theTrewarvenethpew, which has so frequently occasioned enquiry, is a part of the old church, which escaped the fire. In the church is the following curious notice of its having been burnt, "The Spanger burnt this church in the year 1595."
Most tourists inform us that in this church-yard is to be seen the monumental stone, with the epitaph ofOld Dolly Pentreath, so celebrated among antiquaries, as having been the last person who spoke the Cornish language. Such a monument, however, if it ever existed, is no longer to be found, nor can any information be obtained with regard to its probable locality. Her Epitaph is said to have been both in the Cornish and English language, viz.
"Coth Dol Pentreath canz ha deawMarir en Bedans en Powl pleuNa en an Eglar ganna Poble brazBet en Eglar Hay Coth Dolly es!""Old Dol Pentreath, one hundred age and twoBoth born, and in Paul Parish buried too;Not in the Church 'mongst people great and highBut in the Church-yard doth old Dolly lie!"
In the parishes of Paul and Buryan are several Tin streams; in some of which theWood Tin, or wood-like oxide of Tin, is occasionally found in large, and well defined pieces. It has been also, although rarely, found in its matrix.
From Paul Church we may proceed to Penzance,either by the high road over Paul Hill, which becomes extremely interesting from the picturesque beauty and superior cultivation of the country; or we may descend towards the sea shore, and return through the villages ofMouseholeandNewlyn, which may be called colonies of Fishermen, for here the Pilchard[46]and Mackarel fisheries are carried on to a very great extent; and every kind of fish which frequent this coast are caught and sent to Penzance, and other Cornish towns; and, in the early part of the season, they supply the London market with Mackarel, which are conveyed thither by way of Portsmouth. The Lobster fishery also proves an ample source of revenue to the Mount's Bay fishermen, from which alone they divide not less than Two Thousand Pounds, annually.
The ride or walk along the coast fromMouseholetoNewlynis highly interesting. The former town which is situated about two miles south-west of Penzance; and half a mile from Paul Church-town, contains about six hundred inhabitants. There is a small Pier capable of admitting vessels of one hundred tons burthen; but it is chiefly used as a harbour for the numerous fishing boats.
Newlyn, with respect to population, exceeds by one-third that of Mousehole. It has a commodious pier, which is also usually occupied by the fishing boats of the place, which exceed four hundred in number. In the cliff-road between these villages, we pass a platform, which during the late war was abattery, forming a security to the bay from any privateers that might visit it. Adjoining this battery stands a furnace for the purpose of heating the shot. It was under the direction of a small party of the Royal Artillery.
The Geologist in performing this part of the excursion will have much to observe. About one hundred yards west of Mousehole, the clay-slate ceases, and the granite commences. At this junction numerous granite veins, varying in width from about a foot to less than an inch, pass through the slate.[47]A little farther west, a cavern may be observed in the cliff, which has evidently been produced by the decomposition of the walls of an oldAdit. In this cavern the Mineralogist has found good specimens ofEisenkeisel, or Iron flint:—but we will conclude, for our tourist must be wearied by the length of the excursion; tomorrow we shall be again prepared to accompanyhim in a different direction, and to point out a succession of fresh objects, when antiquities, minerals, and picturesque views will, in their turn, again present themselves for his examination.
Between Penzance, and Buryan.
Between Penzance, and Buryan.
Between Penzance, and Buryan.
FOOTNOTES:[35]This product is carefully collected, and preserved in stacks by the inhabitants, for the purpose of fuel. It is worthy of remark that the nature of the fuel employed in a country always imparts a character to its cookery, hence the striking difference between that of Paris and London; so in Cornwall, the convenience afforded by the furze in the process of Baking, has given origin to the general use of pies. Every article of food is dressed in a pie, whence it has become a proverb, that "the Devil will not come into Cornwall, for fear of being put into a pie." In a season of scarcity the Attorneys of the county having at the Quarter Sessions very properly resolved to abstain from every kind of pastry, an allusion to the above proverb was very happily introduced into an Epigram, extemporaneously delivered on the occasion, and which, from its point and humour, deserves to be recorded—"If the proverb be true, that the fame of our piesPrevents us from falling to Satan a prey,It is clear thathis friends—the Attorneys,—are wiseIn moving such obstacles out of the way."[36]We insert the following facts collected byDr. Paris, from the first volume of the Transactions of the Royal Geological Society of Cornwall—"The total quantity of Granite shipped at Falmouth during the last seven years, amounts toForty Thousand Tons. It has been employed for building the Docks at Chatham, and the Waterloo Bridge in London. The lands in the vicinity of Penhryn have furnished it; indeed the quantity actually quarried has been considerably greater, for many of the blocks, in consequence of being damaged, have been condemned and sold at a low price to the inhabitants for building, and other purposes. The number of men generally employed in quarrying it is about four hundred; their wages from twelve to eighteen shillings per week, varying with the quantity raised. The lord of the soil receives one halfpenny a foot for all that is quarried; the freight during war was as high as 25 shillings per ton, at present it is only 16s. Fourteen cubic feet weigh one ton. The weight of the blocks generally varies, from fivecwt.to seven tons."[37]It is not more than three hundred years since the art of husbandry was first introduced. The lands were formerly all in common, and the inhabitants being wholly engaged in the mines, actually let out their pastures to the graziers of Devon, by whom they were in return supplied with cattle and corn.[38]Church-Town.This expression is peculiar to Cornwall—the fact is, that since many market, and even Borough towns arewithouta church, the Cornish dignify those that have it with the title ofChurch-town.[39]We take this opportunity to state, that the annual revenue of the Long-ships light-house is about three thousand pounds. Every British vessel that passes pays a halfpenny per ton;—every foreign vessel pays one shilling, without reference to its tonnage.[40]It is a curious fact that the whole or part of this rock isLime stone.[41]Vessels passing this light pay the same dues as those received by the Long-ships, except in the case of coasting vessels, which pay, not according to their tonnage, but simply a shilling per vessel.[42]One half of the inhabitants of St. Agnes are namedHicks; one quarter of those of Trescow, and a third of those at Bryher are calledJenkins; and a half of St. Martin's is divided betweenEllisandAshford.[43]See "A view of the present state of the Scilly Islands; exhibiting their vast importance to the British Empire, the Improvements of which they are susceptible, and a particular account of the means lately adopted for ameliorating the condition of the Inhabitants, by the establishment and extension of their Fisheries. By the Rev. George Woodley, Missionary from the Society for promoting Christian Knowledge; and Minister of St. Agnes, and St. Martin's."8vo. pp. 344. London, 1822.[44]The same wind is said to bring them on the Southern shores of Ireland. It is generally believed that they come from Norway, not so much to avoid the cold, as to obtain the worms which are locked up in the earth during the frost.[45]It may be observed in the engraving of Saint Michael's Mount, on the elevated line of coast which forms the back ground to the picture.[46]A History of the Pilchard Fishery will be presented to our readers in the Excursion to Saint Ives.[47]SeeMr. Majendie'sinteresting account of this phenomenon in the first volume of the Royal Geological Society of Cornwall.
[35]This product is carefully collected, and preserved in stacks by the inhabitants, for the purpose of fuel. It is worthy of remark that the nature of the fuel employed in a country always imparts a character to its cookery, hence the striking difference between that of Paris and London; so in Cornwall, the convenience afforded by the furze in the process of Baking, has given origin to the general use of pies. Every article of food is dressed in a pie, whence it has become a proverb, that "the Devil will not come into Cornwall, for fear of being put into a pie." In a season of scarcity the Attorneys of the county having at the Quarter Sessions very properly resolved to abstain from every kind of pastry, an allusion to the above proverb was very happily introduced into an Epigram, extemporaneously delivered on the occasion, and which, from its point and humour, deserves to be recorded—"If the proverb be true, that the fame of our piesPrevents us from falling to Satan a prey,It is clear thathis friends—the Attorneys,—are wiseIn moving such obstacles out of the way."
[35]This product is carefully collected, and preserved in stacks by the inhabitants, for the purpose of fuel. It is worthy of remark that the nature of the fuel employed in a country always imparts a character to its cookery, hence the striking difference between that of Paris and London; so in Cornwall, the convenience afforded by the furze in the process of Baking, has given origin to the general use of pies. Every article of food is dressed in a pie, whence it has become a proverb, that "the Devil will not come into Cornwall, for fear of being put into a pie." In a season of scarcity the Attorneys of the county having at the Quarter Sessions very properly resolved to abstain from every kind of pastry, an allusion to the above proverb was very happily introduced into an Epigram, extemporaneously delivered on the occasion, and which, from its point and humour, deserves to be recorded—
"If the proverb be true, that the fame of our piesPrevents us from falling to Satan a prey,It is clear thathis friends—the Attorneys,—are wiseIn moving such obstacles out of the way."
[36]We insert the following facts collected byDr. Paris, from the first volume of the Transactions of the Royal Geological Society of Cornwall—"The total quantity of Granite shipped at Falmouth during the last seven years, amounts toForty Thousand Tons. It has been employed for building the Docks at Chatham, and the Waterloo Bridge in London. The lands in the vicinity of Penhryn have furnished it; indeed the quantity actually quarried has been considerably greater, for many of the blocks, in consequence of being damaged, have been condemned and sold at a low price to the inhabitants for building, and other purposes. The number of men generally employed in quarrying it is about four hundred; their wages from twelve to eighteen shillings per week, varying with the quantity raised. The lord of the soil receives one halfpenny a foot for all that is quarried; the freight during war was as high as 25 shillings per ton, at present it is only 16s. Fourteen cubic feet weigh one ton. The weight of the blocks generally varies, from fivecwt.to seven tons."
[36]We insert the following facts collected byDr. Paris, from the first volume of the Transactions of the Royal Geological Society of Cornwall—"The total quantity of Granite shipped at Falmouth during the last seven years, amounts toForty Thousand Tons. It has been employed for building the Docks at Chatham, and the Waterloo Bridge in London. The lands in the vicinity of Penhryn have furnished it; indeed the quantity actually quarried has been considerably greater, for many of the blocks, in consequence of being damaged, have been condemned and sold at a low price to the inhabitants for building, and other purposes. The number of men generally employed in quarrying it is about four hundred; their wages from twelve to eighteen shillings per week, varying with the quantity raised. The lord of the soil receives one halfpenny a foot for all that is quarried; the freight during war was as high as 25 shillings per ton, at present it is only 16s. Fourteen cubic feet weigh one ton. The weight of the blocks generally varies, from fivecwt.to seven tons."
[37]It is not more than three hundred years since the art of husbandry was first introduced. The lands were formerly all in common, and the inhabitants being wholly engaged in the mines, actually let out their pastures to the graziers of Devon, by whom they were in return supplied with cattle and corn.
[37]It is not more than three hundred years since the art of husbandry was first introduced. The lands were formerly all in common, and the inhabitants being wholly engaged in the mines, actually let out their pastures to the graziers of Devon, by whom they were in return supplied with cattle and corn.
[38]Church-Town.This expression is peculiar to Cornwall—the fact is, that since many market, and even Borough towns arewithouta church, the Cornish dignify those that have it with the title ofChurch-town.
[38]Church-Town.This expression is peculiar to Cornwall—the fact is, that since many market, and even Borough towns arewithouta church, the Cornish dignify those that have it with the title ofChurch-town.
[39]We take this opportunity to state, that the annual revenue of the Long-ships light-house is about three thousand pounds. Every British vessel that passes pays a halfpenny per ton;—every foreign vessel pays one shilling, without reference to its tonnage.
[39]We take this opportunity to state, that the annual revenue of the Long-ships light-house is about three thousand pounds. Every British vessel that passes pays a halfpenny per ton;—every foreign vessel pays one shilling, without reference to its tonnage.
[40]It is a curious fact that the whole or part of this rock isLime stone.
[40]It is a curious fact that the whole or part of this rock isLime stone.
[41]Vessels passing this light pay the same dues as those received by the Long-ships, except in the case of coasting vessels, which pay, not according to their tonnage, but simply a shilling per vessel.
[41]Vessels passing this light pay the same dues as those received by the Long-ships, except in the case of coasting vessels, which pay, not according to their tonnage, but simply a shilling per vessel.
[42]One half of the inhabitants of St. Agnes are namedHicks; one quarter of those of Trescow, and a third of those at Bryher are calledJenkins; and a half of St. Martin's is divided betweenEllisandAshford.
[42]One half of the inhabitants of St. Agnes are namedHicks; one quarter of those of Trescow, and a third of those at Bryher are calledJenkins; and a half of St. Martin's is divided betweenEllisandAshford.
[43]See "A view of the present state of the Scilly Islands; exhibiting their vast importance to the British Empire, the Improvements of which they are susceptible, and a particular account of the means lately adopted for ameliorating the condition of the Inhabitants, by the establishment and extension of their Fisheries. By the Rev. George Woodley, Missionary from the Society for promoting Christian Knowledge; and Minister of St. Agnes, and St. Martin's."8vo. pp. 344. London, 1822.
[43]See "A view of the present state of the Scilly Islands; exhibiting their vast importance to the British Empire, the Improvements of which they are susceptible, and a particular account of the means lately adopted for ameliorating the condition of the Inhabitants, by the establishment and extension of their Fisheries. By the Rev. George Woodley, Missionary from the Society for promoting Christian Knowledge; and Minister of St. Agnes, and St. Martin's."8vo. pp. 344. London, 1822.
[44]The same wind is said to bring them on the Southern shores of Ireland. It is generally believed that they come from Norway, not so much to avoid the cold, as to obtain the worms which are locked up in the earth during the frost.
[44]The same wind is said to bring them on the Southern shores of Ireland. It is generally believed that they come from Norway, not so much to avoid the cold, as to obtain the worms which are locked up in the earth during the frost.
[45]It may be observed in the engraving of Saint Michael's Mount, on the elevated line of coast which forms the back ground to the picture.
[45]It may be observed in the engraving of Saint Michael's Mount, on the elevated line of coast which forms the back ground to the picture.
[46]A History of the Pilchard Fishery will be presented to our readers in the Excursion to Saint Ives.
[46]A History of the Pilchard Fishery will be presented to our readers in the Excursion to Saint Ives.
[47]SeeMr. Majendie'sinteresting account of this phenomenon in the first volume of the Royal Geological Society of Cornwall.
[47]SeeMr. Majendie'sinteresting account of this phenomenon in the first volume of the Royal Geological Society of Cornwall.
TO BOTALLACK MINE; CAPE CORNWALL; AND THE MINING DISTRICT OF SAINT JUST.
To exhibit the greatest variety of interesting objects, in the least possible space and time, may be said to constitute the essential excellence of a "Guide." For the accomplishment of such a purpose we now proceed to conduct the stranger toBotallack MineandCape Cornwall, through the Parishes of Madron, Morvah, and Saint Just.
In our road to the village of Madron, or MadronChurch-town, as it is commonly called, we passNancealverne, the estate of John Scobell Esq.,Poltair, the residence of Edward Scobell Esq., andTrengwaintonthe seat of Sir Rose Price, Bart. At this latter place considerable exertions have been made to raise plantations, and to clothe the granitic hills behind it with wood; and from the progress already made, we feel sanguine in the ultimate success of the enterprize.Amongst the pictures in the possession of the worthy Baronet are several of the earlier productions of Opie. The head of an aged beggar, by that artist, has frequently excited our admiration, and presents a characteristic specimen of the native simplicity and expression of his style, and the magic force of his chiaro-scuro. This head was painted also under circumstances, a knowledge of which cannot fail to heighten its interest. The father of Sir Rose having been struck by the venerable aspect of an aged mendicant as he was begging in the streets of Penzance, immediately sent for Opie, then residing in the town, and expressed a desire that the young artist should paint his portrait. The beggar was accordingly regaled with a bounteous meal upon the occasion, and Opie appears to have caught his expression at the happy moment, when like the "Last Minstrel" of our northern bard,
— "Kindness had his wants suppliedAnd the old man was gratified."
The Village of Madron is about two miles to the north-west of Penzance. The church is placed on an elevated situation, and commands a very striking view of Saint Michael's Mount, and its bay. Penzance is a Chapelry of this parish.
Madron Wellis situated in a moor about a mile and a half from theChurch-town. It is enclosed within walls, which were partially destroyed in the time of Cromwell, by Major Ceeley of St. Ives, but the remains of them are still sufficiently entire to exhibit the form of an ancient Baptistry.[48]The inner wall with its window and door-way, and the altar with a square hole or socket in the centre, which received the foot of the cross or image of the patron saint, are still perfect. The foundation of the outer wall, or anti-room, may be traced with great ease.
Superstition has, of course, attributed many virtues to waters which had been thus hallowed, and this Well, like that of Chapel Euny, has been long celebrated for its medicinal efficacy in restoring motion and activity to cripples,[49]Baptism was administered only at the stated times of Easter and Whitsuntide; but, at all seasons, the virtues of the waters attracted the lame and the impotent; and the altar was at hand to assist the devotion of their prayers, as well as to receive the offerings of their gratitude.
Chemical analysis has been unable to detect in this water the presence ofanyactive ingredient that might explain the beneficial operation attributed to it.
In the road to Morvah we meet with the celebratedCromlech[50]at Lanyon. It is placed on a prominent hill, and from its lonely situation, and the wildness of the country by which it is surrounded, it cannot fail to inspire sensations of reverential awe in every one who approaches it.[51]This rude monument has been long known amongst the country people by the appellation of the "Giant's Quoit." When the last edition of this "Guide" went to the press it was still standing in its original position, and was thus described. It consists of three unshapen pillars inclining from the perpendicular, which support a large table stone (resembling aDiscusorQuoit) in a horizontal position, the direction of which is nearly north and south. The flat stone is 47 feet in girth, and 12 in length, and its height from the ground is sufficient to enable a man on horseback to pass under it.—The aged monument, however, has at length bent beneath the hand of time, and fallen on its side. Its downfall, which happened during a violent tempest, occasioned a universal feeling of regret in the country.
In the same tenement, about a quarter of a mile west of Lanyon house, is another monument of this kind, nearly as large as the former; and it is singular that this should have been the only Cromlech in Corwall which escaped the notice of Dr. Borlase. It has fallen on its edge, but is still entire.
All our notions respecting the origin and use of these monuments are purely conjectural; it seems, however, very probable that they are the most ancient in the world, erected possibly by one of the first colonists which came into the island. As Cromlechs are known to abound in every country where theCeltsestablished themselves, many antiquaries have concluded thatthey are of Celtic origin. The same doubt and uncertainty involve every consideration with respect to their use; it has been a general idea that they were intended for altars, but the upper stone is evidently too gibbous ever to have admitted the officiating priest, or to have allowed him to stand to overlook the fire, and the consumption of the victim; besides, what occasion is there to suppose a Cromlech any thing more than a sepulchral monument? Is it not the most natural and probable conclusion? Indeed Mr. Wright actually found a skeleton deposited under one of them in Ireland, and it must strike the most superficial observer that our modern tombs are not very dissimilar to the former in their construction, and probably derived their form from a very ancient model.
Men-an-Tol.The next object of curiosity consists of three stones on a triangular plane, the middle one of which is perforated with a large hole, and is calledMen-an-Tol, i. e. theholed stone. Dr. Borlase who, as we have often observed, has recourse to the chisel of Druidism to account for every cavity or crevice, conjectures that it was appropriated to the rites of that priesthood, and asserts, on the authority of a farmer, that even in his time, it was deemed topossess the power of healing those who would crawl through it.
In a croft, about half a mile to the north-west of Lanyon, lies a very ancient sepulchral stone, called by the Cornish "Men Skryfa," i. e. theInscribed Stone. It is nine feet ten inches long, and one foot eight inches broad; the inscription upon it is "Riolobran Cunoval Fil," which signifiesRiolobran the Son of Cunoval lies buried here.[52]With respect to the date of this monument, all antiquaries agree in thinking that it must have been engraven before the corruptions crept into the Roman alphabet, such for instance as the junction of the letters by unnatural links, or when the down strokes of one were made to serve for two, &c. This practice arose soon after the Romans went off, and increased until the Saxon letters were introduced at Athelstan's conquest. The most striking deviation from the Roman orthography to be observed in this monument is in the cross stroke of the Roman N not being diagonal as it ought to be, nor yet quite horizontal as we find it in the sixth century; and hence it is fair to assign to it a date antecedent to that period.[53]
Chun Castle, a prominent object in this neighbourhood, is similar toCaerbran Round, which has been described, except that the ruins are more extensive, and less confused. The remains occupy the whole area of a hill commanding a wide tract of country to the east, some low grounds to the north and south, and the wide expanded ocean to the west. Another Cromlech may also be seen from this spot, and stands upon the very line which divides the parishes of Morvah and Saint Just; but it is far inferior to that at Lanyon. We will now for awhile abandon the contemplation of these faded monuments of past ages, and proceed to the examination of a rich and interesting field of mineralogical and geological research. In introducing the stranger, however, to the district of Saint Just, we must repeat to him the caution with which Mr. Carne[54]has very prudently accompanied his history of its mineral productions. "If the stranger on his arrival shall expect to find any of the minerals so prominently situated as to salute his eyes at once; or if he shall suppose that those objects which are especially worthy of notice in a geological point of view, are to be discovered and examined in the space of a few hours, he will be greatly mistaken and disappointed; for very few, either of the minerals or the veins are to be foundin situ, except by a diligent, patient, and persevering search."
Without further delay we shall now attend the traveller toPendeen Cove; in our road to which, the only objects worthy attention are the Stamping Mills, and Burning Houses or Roasting Furnaces, belonging toBotallack Mine. They are situated on the bank of the river which runs into the sea atPendeen Cove. The Tin ore ofBotallackis generally mixed with a portion ofSulphuret of Copper, which not being separable from it by the mechanical process of dressing, is submitted to the action of a roasting furnace, by which the Copper being converted into an oxide,and the Sulphur into Sulphuric acid,a Sulphate of Copperis thus produced, which is easily separated by washing. The solution obtained is then poured into casks, containing pieces of iron, by the agency of which theCopperisprecipitated.[55]
There is to be seen atPendeen, a cave, known by the name ofPendeen Vau, and concerning which there are many ridiculous stories. It appears to have been one of those hiding places in which the Britons secreted themselves, and their property, from the attacks of the Saxons and Danes. The cave is still almost entire, a circumstance which is principally owing to the superstitious fears of the inhabitants, many of whom, at this very day, entertain a dread of entering it.
AtPendeen Cove, the Geologist will meet with several phenomena well worthy his attention. At the junction of the Slate and Granite, veins of the latter will be observed traversing the former rock, and what is particularly worthy of notice, they may be seen emanating from a great mass of granite and passing into the schistose rock by which it is covered. One part of the cliff of this cove consists of large fragments of granite imbedded in clay and earth; the interstices of which are filled with white sand, which has been probably blown there from the beach; through this sand, water impregnated with iron is slowly percolating, the effect of which is the induration of the sand, and the formation of abreccia, which in some parts has acquired very considerable hardness.
Before proceeding to the metalliferous district of Saint Just, we may observe that, if the traveller's object be to reach Saint Ives by the road along the cliffs, through the parish ofZennor, he will meet with a most cheerless country, but by no means destitute of geological interest. He ought particularly to examine a bold rocky promontory, called the "Gurnard's Head," where he will find a succession of beds of slaty felspar, hornblende rock, and greenstone. The geology of this headland has been accurately described byDr. Forbesin the second volume of theTransactions of the Royal Geological Society of Cornwall.Polmear Coveought also to be visited on account of the Granite veins, which are perhaps as singular and interesting as any of those already described.—But let us proceed to complete our examination of the coast ofSaint Just. Many ofthe mines are situated on the very edge of the cliff, and are wrought to a considerable distance under the sea; but all communication to them is from land.[56]For a description of the numerous minerals found in this district,[57]we must refer the reader to the highly valuable paper byJoseph Carne, Esq. which is published in the second volume of theTransactions of the Royal Geological Society of Cornwall. We cannot, however, allow the mineralogist to passTrewellard, without reminding him that, at this spot,Axinitewas first discovered in Cornwall, and that the most beautifully crystallized specimens of that mineral, scarcely inferior to those brought from Dauphiné, may still be procured here. In the cliff atHuel Cock Carn, a vein of this mineral, of a violet colour, three feet in width, may be traced for upwards of twenty yards; and in its vicinity there is to be found also a vein ofgarnet rock.Apatite, of a greyish-white colour, associated withHornblende, may be seen in the same spot. In the slate rocks betweenHuel Cockand Botallack,Prehnitehas lately been found, for the first time; it appears to form a small vein, which in one part is divided into two branches. Upon the discovery of the above mineral, says Mr. Joseph Carne, an expectation was naturally formed, thatZeolite, its frequent associate, and an equal stranger to Cornwall, might shortly make its appearance. This opinion has been lately verified by the discovery of, at least, two varieties of that mineral, imbedded in thePrehnitevein, viz.Stilbite, orfoliated Zeolite, crystallized in flat four-sided prisms, with quadrangular summits; and theradiated Mesotype, which sometimes contains nodules ofPrehnite. Other specimens have been found in rather an earthy state, and may possibly be themealy Zeoliteof Jameson. In the same slate rocksApatiteoccurs of a yellowish-green colour, and crystallized in hexaedral prisms. In the granite rocks on the high hills south-east of Trewellard,Piniteis to be observed.
We arrive at the "Crown Engine" of Botallack—
"How fearfulAnd dizzy 'tis to cast one's eyes so low,The crows and choughs, that wing the midway airShow scarce so gross as beetles:————I'll look no more,Lest my brain turn, and the deficient sightTopple down headlong."
This is undoubtedly one of the most extraordinary and surprising places in the mining districts of Cornwall, whether considered for the rare and rich assemblage of its minerals, or for the wild and stupendous character of its rock scenery. Surely, if ever a spot seemed to bid defiance to the successful efforts of the miner, it was the site of theCrown Engine[58]at Botallack, where at the very commencement of his subterranean labours, he was required to lower a steam engine down a precipice of more than two hundred feet, with the view of extending his operations under the bed of the Atlantic ocean!!! There is something in the very idea which alarms the imagination; and the situation and appearance of the gigantic machine, together with the harsh jarring of its bolts, re-echoed from the surrounding rocks, are well calculated to excite our astonishment.
But if you are thus struck and surprised at the scene when viewed from the cliff above, how much greater will be your wonder if you descend to the surface of the mine. You will then behold a combination of the powers of art with the wild sublimity of Nature which is quite unparalleled; the effects of the whole being not a little heightened by the hollow roar of the raging billows which are perpetually lashing the cliff beneath. In looking up you will observe troops of mules laden with sacks of coals, for the supply of the engine, with their undaunted riders, fearlessly trotting down the winding path which you trembled at descending even on foot. As you approach the engine, the cliff becomes almost perpendicular, and the ore raised from the mine is therefore drawn up over an inclined plane,[59]by means of a horse engine placed on the extreme verge of the overhanging rocks above, and which seems to the spectator below as if suspended in "mid air."
The workings of this mine extend at least seventy fathoms in length under the bed of the sea; and in these caverns of darkness are many human beings, for a small pittance, and even that of a precarious amount, constantly digging for ore, regardless of the horrors which surround them, and of the roar of the Atlantic ocean, whose boisterous waves are incessantly rolling over their heads. We should feel pity for the wretch who,as an atonement for his crimes, should be compelled to undergo the task which the Cornish miner voluntarily undertakes, and as cheerfully performs; yet such is the force of habit, that very rarely does any other employment tempt him to forsake his own; the perils of his occupation are scarcely noticed, or if noticed, are soon forgotten.
TheLode[60]of the mine may be seencropping out, in the group of rocks beneath the engine. The ore is the grey and yellow sulphuret of copper, mixed with the oxide of tin,[61]of whichshe[62]has already "turned up" a sufficient quantity to afford a very handsome premium to the adventurers. In the grey sulphuret of this mine,purple copper ore, of the kind called by the Germans "Buntkupfererz," is frequently met with. Besides which, a great number of interesting minerals may be collected, as several varieties ofJasper;arborescent native Copper;Jaspery iron ore;Arseniate of Iron, which until it was discovered in theCrown lodeof Botallack, was unknown in St. Just. It is of a brown colour, and iscrystallized in cubes.Sulphuret of Bismuth, imbedded inJasper; beautifulspecular iron ore;hæmatitic Iron; and thehydrous oxide of iron, in prisms terminated by pyramids, and which was supposed by the Count de Bournon to containTitanium. The picturesque rocks of this district may be considered as composed ofHornblende rock, which will be found to alternate with slate. The contorted appearance of the former in the vicinity of Botallack is very singular, and will admit of much speculation. TheCrown rocks, to which the mineralogist must not neglect to descend, consist of extremely compactHornblende rock, in which occur numerous veins and beds of different minerals; viz.veins of Garnet rock, with numerous imbedded crystals, being at one part almost a foot in width;Magnetic Iron Pyrites, massive, in beds, near the engine; its colour is bluish-grey, and it is called by the workmenSpelter, who mistake it probably forBlende, which latter mineral also occurs here in considerable quantities. In a part of the rock, which is almost inaccessible, there is a vein ofEpidote, distinctly crystallized, and about six inches wide. The miners, however descend the fearful precipice without any difficulty, in order to collect specimens for the inquisitive visitant.Axinitealsooccurs in veins, or perhaps in beds;Thallite,Chlorite,Tremolite, and a black crystallizedSchorl, in which the late Rev. William Gregor detected six per cent. ofTitanium, are to be found also in this interesting spot.
Cape Cornwallis the next object of interest after Botallack. This point of land stretches out to the west, at an elevation of two hundred and thirty feet, and forms the northern boundary ofWhitsand Bay(p.88). It is entirely composed of a slaty rock, traversed by numerous veins ofActinolite. To the geologist this spot will be interesting, since on the shore beneath, a junction may be observed between theGraniteof the Land's End, and the slate of this promontory.[63]These formations are separated by a large vein ofmetalliferous quartz, which forms thelodeof the mine in the neighbourhood, called "Little Bounds," and whose engine suspended in the cliff above, constitutes a very striking feature in the scenery. This vein, besidesOxide of Tin, for which it is worked, containsNative Copper, differentOxides of Iron,Red Jasper,Quartzof a bright brownish red colour, andScaly red Ironore, sometimes investing Quartz, and occasionally in small masses consisting of red cohering scales, which are unctuous to the touch.
Mr. Carne states, that in this mine three distinct lodes, distant from each other, have been worked under the sea; two of them being in granite, the third in slate. Here also, at two parts of thelode, known by the name of "Save-all's lode," probably, as the name would seem to imply, in consequence of the avarice of the miner, a communication has been made between the sea and the mine; one of them is at about high water mark at spring tides; the other is covered by the sea at every tide, except at very low neaps; great and constant attention is therefore necessary for the security of this latter breach. At first the opening was stopped by a piece of wood covered with turf; but as this defence was not found to be sufficiently secure, a thick platform caulked like the deck of a ship, was ultimately placed upon it, and which renders it nearly water proof. The breaking of the waves is heard in all the levels of the mine, and in the part directly beneath the pebbly beach, the rolling of the stones in boisterous weather produces a most terrific effect. In the drift at the forty fathom level, which is carried a considerable way under thesea, Mr. Chenhalls, the intelligent agent of the mine, had formerly observed a successive formation ofStalactites; in consequence of which statement, Dr. John Davy and Mr. Majendie were induced to visit the spot. It had been closed for two years previously, but before it was shut up Mr. Chenhalls had carefully removed all theStalactiteswhich then existed. Upon examination it was observed that a fresh crop had been produced during the interval just stated; some of which were eighteen inches in length, and above an inch in diameter. TheStalagmitesdirectly underneath them were of still larger dimensions; both however had the same yellowish-brown colour, and were found to consist ofPeroxide of iron. Specimens may be seen in the cabinet at Penzance. Dr. Paris has suggested that they resulted from the decomposition ofPyrites, forming, in the first instance, a solubleSulphate of iron, but which, by attracting farther oxygen, deposited its base in the form here discovered.
At a little distance southward of Cape Cornwall, is a high rocky promontory calledCaraglose Head, from which the traveller may command one of the most interesting views in this part of Cornwall. On the north are Cape Cornwall, and the romantic machinery ofLittleBounds Mine. Southward and directly under the head, the interesting creek calledPornanvon Cove, with the engine ofHuel St. Just Tin Minenear the sea shore. Westward, on a clear day, the Scilly Islands may be distinctly seen. This is a spot seldom visited by strangers, but with the exception of Botallack, it is certainly one of the most striking in the district of Saint Just. AtPornanvon Cove, a stratum of sea sand and pebbles may be seen in the cliff, at an elevation of fifteen feet above high water mark!
Advancing from the coast into the interior of the country towards Saint Just'sChurch-town, Dr. Berger observed many blocks ofSchorl rock[64]scattered on this part of the granitic plain, particularly amongst the rubbish of some old tin mines, which are here very numerous, but are now quite deserted.
Saint Just Church Town.Nothing of any interest is to be seen at this place, except a very ancient cross, a sketch of which we shall introduce at the conclusion of the present chapter; and the remains of an ancient Amphitheatre.
In this, and similar "Rounds," as they are provincially called, the ancient British assembled, in order to witness those athletic sports, for which the Cornish are still remarkable; indeed, at this very day, wrestling matches are held in the amphitheatre at Saint Just, during the holidays of Easter and Whitsuntide.[65]
The Antiquary ought not to quit this parish without visiting the "Botallack Circles;" when examined separately they do not differ essentially from that atBolleit, or atBoscawen Unbefore described (p.81); but they intersect each other and form a confused cluster; "but in this seeming confusion," exclaims Dr. Borlase, "I cannot but think that there was some mystical meaning, or, at least, distinct allotment to particular uses; some of these might be employed for the sacrifice, others allotted to prayer, others to the feasting of the priests, others for the station of those who devoted the victims; and lastly, that these circles intersected each other in so remarkable a manner, as we find them in this monument, might be to intimate that each of these holy rites, though exercised in different circles, were but so many links of one and the same chain, and that there was a constant dependance and connection between sacrifice, prayer, holy feasting, and all the several parts of Druidical worship."
In taking leave of the metalliferous district of Saint Just we have to observe, that it has been considered by Mr. Carne, and not without probability, as having constituted the principal portion of what was formerly known under the name of theCassiterides, and that if it would redound to the honour, or contribute to the prosperity of Saint Just, it might be said, "that her Tin was probably a constituent part of the Shield and Helmet of Achilles,—of the Tabernacle of the Israelites,—of the Purple of Tyre,—and of the Temple of Solomon."
From Saint Just'sChurch-town, the road conducts us over a wild part of the peninsula, although highly salubrious, and invigorating from the fine sea breezes which blow from every side; after a ride over such bleak and barren hills, the eye experiences a singular repose on our approach to the cultivated shores of the Mount's Bay.