A pleasant walk before breakfast, paid 1¼ dollar for lodging, breakfast, and fare to Adirondack. Visited the ruined fort[22]at Ticonderoga. Changed seats with a Mr. E. Tech—arrived at the foot of Lake George at 10. Walked towards Ticonderoga and returned by water; two saws at work cutting planks; went down below the falls; the river choked with bits of wood from the saw-mills. In descending on the other side two Indian boys were fishing. The mountain is covered with pines and also with bold rocks. We were told the highest mountain took fire about two years ago, and continued in flames more than a week; the dead pines are still remaining. The latter part of the Lake more interesting; several islands.
Arrived at Caldwell a little after seven. Paid the Captain 1½ dollars he not having been able to give me silver out of a 5 dollar note; he then recommended me to be cautious about notes. After much trouble about beds we had tea with old bread, butter, plenty of sweets, also whinberries, etc. At length I prevailed upon a party to leave early and breakfast at Glen Falls. Went to bed before nine.
Rose half past four. Took a seat with the conductor, found it very cool, a wonderful contrast since yesterday. The road very sandy; passed a place where the stage had been upset last night. Got to Glen Falls on the Hudson alittle after seven; walked down before breakfast to a little Niagara; it looked very well rushing over the black rock, the river being very considerable. Hazel nuts most abundant. The ride very delightful. Reached Saratoga before 12, according to written agreement being 4½ hours, though only 17 miles. Stopped at Congress Hall Hotel to see as much as possible of the fashionable world; dined at two; 150 to 170 passengers, many with their servants, and some of the gentlemen had their wine cooling in ice-water; some very pretty ladies, and gentlemen rather better looking than ordinary. Purchased a copy of the "American Traveller" for 1½ dollars. Some good singing by a gentleman, also some ladies played very well; afterwards went to a ball at the United States Hotel; saw some curious dancing, whirling one another round very fast. At a loss to find my room No. 156.
Could not sleep after five in consequence of the noise of visitors leaving. Took a walk to the well, drank some water and bought a ring. Left by the railway half past nine; the seat I had was taken by a gentleman who moved, but was revenged by getting a lady to take the place, so I mounted aloft; the breeze was pleasant. Leaving Ballston the carriage ran off the rail, which caused a concussion and seemed like to have squeezed our legs hanging down before; also a disagreeable passage over and under the bridges at Schenectady; on the river Mohawk the same on landing; an interesting but perilous journey, drawn by horses and engine; wound up one place by a stationary engine. Some deep ridges cut through and rather filled up. Arrived at Albany at one. Met with an interesting young Englishman. Paid to Boston 6 dollars. Walked to the river and bought a sweet apple and looked at a pig weighing 1400 lbs. unable to get up without assistance. Visited a planing and grooving mill, the dust from it must make the business very unhealthy;then a grand Baptist Church with six noble columns all of wood; then the Capitol or State House, and the City Hall[23], whence I had a magnificent view of the city and river Hudson. After tea visited a plane manufactory. Many birds, yellow like the canary. Went to bed at 8½.
Called up at half past twelve to join the stage, and dragged up and down the streets collecting passengers at different inns. Forced to go by another route than had been intended. The stage quite full and two with the driver; one next me pushed me and said he did it more on account of a lady near him: I said nothing, but pushed again; breakfast passed rather sullenly; on returning and finding one of the passengers had left, I said I hoped he found room without pushing; and told him in his regard for the lady, he had not forgotten himself. After this we had a good deal of pleasant conversation. A good deal of white marble cut into slabs for gravestones. At Stockbridge a saw-mill; seven saws going at once. Breakfasted at Seddon, paid 37½ cents for some poor coffee and tough chicken. Dined at Beckett, good pie and pudding with milk 37½ cents. One sixth of the way passed in the dark, 1/6th hilly and sheep land, with now and then a garden and better farms, 2/6ths mountainous and forest, 2/6ths still nicer, farming, great neatness and still better fencing. Passed a long bridge over the river Connecticut, and arrived at Springfield at half past sevenP.M.; though only stopping till three in the morning I was shown into the best room I have been in in America. Noticed a hawk flying with a snake in its beak. Went to bed at eight. Paid only 62 cents for tea and a very good and spacious room.
Rose at seven and breakfasted on nothing good but eggs.Passed manufactures of cotton and woollen. Arrived at Worcester at half past one; the neatest town I have ever seen; every house appeared to be newly painted white, and with very pretty gardens. The road afterwards hilly with uneven places where the water gets off the road; the last twenty miles more even; a good part of the way from Albany is stony, and hence there are more walls; in many places the stones are too large to remove and the smaller ones are piled upon them in heaps. I got up to sit with the driver after breakfast, but was forced in by the sun; it became cloudy, and I mounted again, and remained out till the last four miles when it became much colder and was nearly dark. The two last stages, and one yesterday were twenty miles. Both days have been highly favourable, not meeting dust and what there was carried away by the wind. Arrived at Boston half past eight; could not get tea at this great house—took milk and bread.
Rose before seven; after breakfast read the paper and then set out for Dr. Channing's Chapel. Found that he was at Newport, Rhode Island, during the summer and only preaching occasionally during the winter. His colleague Mr. Gannett was gone to an Ordination at Buffalo. Mr. Furniss of Philadelphia was to preach. I set off to hear Mr. Greenwood at King's Chapel. He read a form of prayer and a stranger preached from Matthew v; but a poor sermon. Mr. G. read the service of the Lord's Supper; after kneeling, he partook of the bread and wine, then distributed the elements to the communicants, all was very earnestly done at the altar. At the door I was glad to see black women permitted. In the afternoon I went to hear a Mr. Lothrop and was again disappointed, but was pleased by a Mr. Young who preached a discourse on "Faith" from John 20 chap. 29 v., mentioned Columbus. Much pleased by a plain and simple address to the Sunday scholarsby Mr. Grant. All the three places of worship very nice buildings; the galleries not wide and supported by double pillars, good organ and good singing but not much joined in by the congregation; well attended, but hardly by any poor persons. In the evening went to hear a Mr. Taylor who had been a sailor. His text Exodus v, verse 2.
Got up at six and walked through the Mall, and into the State House and returned to breakfast. Met with a plain and respectable Englishman. Called upon Mr. John Lee, a very respectable old gentleman 76 years old, chatted half an hour and agreed to meet again at three. Returned to the Hotel and ordered a gig for Mount Vernon Church. It came without driver and I had to drive and thread my way through the city. Passed over Cambridge 7810 feet long, walked up and down the cemetery which is superior in locality to Pere la Chaise at Paris, but has not the commanding view. In one part a great many beautiful flowers. The monuments have usually the family name and the Christian name on another side of the obelisk; a truly melancholy walk; a beautiful monument to the memory of Spurzheim[24]. I allowed the horse to have his own way back and he brought me at once near the hotel. At three I called upon Mr. Lee and we had a delightful walk to the wharf and stores; a magnificent range of buildings. Saw a contrivance for hauling ships to be repaired; the machinery turned by horses. Passed over a long wooden bridge to Bunker Hill; from the Monument[25], partly built, we had a fine view of the town, and returned over another bridge. Invited to take tea with Mr. Lee, but excused myself on account of writing a letter to Mr. B. on which I was engaged all evening. Left it in the care of Mrs. Livingstone.
Rose before six, got café au lait at my request. Found the Lowell stage would soon be here; though a mail coach it goes up and down collecting passengers; this enabled me to see more of the town; more than an hour in getting out of it. Took a seat with the driver and though a very hot day found a breeze when in motion; the last fourteen miles, partly a sandy road, we had six horses. Saw three hop plantations; arrived at Lowell at eleven; took my return at two. Went straight to the carpet manufactory but found strangers not admitted; at length I was introduced to the manager, a Scotchman, upon my assuring him that I was in no way connected with such business he took me through the spinning and weaving rooms; a beautiful shearing machine, also the winding effected the same way, the carpets woven by cards as the bed quilts in England; the Brussels from bobbins with weights attached to each thread and tumbling over wires introduced. The rugs done by locks of coloured thread tied into the warp, and then hemp or wadding driven up by the lathe. So extremely hot that I remained in the first shade I came to till near two o'clock. Very many handsome-sized cotton factories, the machinery all turned by the river Merrimack. Work begins at five, then ½ hour for breakfast, ¾ of an hour for dinner, stopping at seven, making 12¾ hours each day, and Saturdays the same; the boys and men well dressed, the girls and women in neat gowns and hoods. The bells larger and of different tones as if for worship. The coach promised for two, did not arrive so I came off in another and got to Boston at half past seven. Paid for fare both ways 2½ dollars. This has been one of the most disagreeable hot dusty days I have experienced. Found a letter this morning from James Dean.
Rose a little before 6, took a glass of milk, walked to thebath; found it a dirty poor concern, not more than half a yard deep as the tide was out. Called at Mr. Lee's, found his son from England who was kind enough to walk with me in the town. We went off to the Athenaeum which is well stored with books. Saw the English Statutes presented by the British Government; then into the News Room at the Exchange; then to the dry dock, a substantial handsome dock; then to the machine shop where they were making blocks, etc. Saw a large ship theColumbuson the stocks, also theConstitution[26]with Jackson's head cut off; then to the prison where they are occupied in masonry, shoe-making, tailoring, brush-making and cabinet work; the prisoners are not suffered to speak; and they eat their food in their cells. Dined with Mr. Lee: delicious lemonade: several dined within, supposed boarders. Set off to Nahant at 3; a beautiful sail among the numerous islands, saw ten seals on a sandbank. Arrived at 4½, a bold rocky coast; the water dashing between the cliffs. A dispute with another steamer, ours turned about to sternward to get a landing by running between, but the other shied off and prevented a collision. Got back half past seven; a beautiful vine (Isabella) only six years planted and many hundred of branches. Also a Black Hamburgh two years planted and bearing. Took leave of this interesting family, particularly the old gentleman, 76 years of age and quite cheerful; the son resides at Birmingham and I may see him again. On getting to Tremont House I asked for a glass of milk, but was disappointed, it having been drank up. Got a letter from Mr. Lee to Dr. Channing; after getting to bed the fire bells began ringing all over the city.
Rose at five; at breakfast, beefsteak but no milk, so I took black tea cooled down, and diluted by iced water. Another fine morning; mounted the roof of the coach, nearlyhalf way, but it was so warm that I went within. The road very dusty but luckily the wind was favourable; the land poor and stony, good fences on each side of the road; several small factories on the way. Pawtucket an active pleasant town. Arrived in Providence at twelve. Went in the coach to the steamboat, returned to Franklin Hotel; set off to inquire for the Cunliffes. Walked up after dinner; learned that Joseph resided 17 miles off but that he was in town; could not meet with him. William lives about five miles off, and I should have gone to see him but it was so excessively hot that I durst not venture. Bought a pair of cotton stockings for 12 cents, put them on immediately; had another wash, found general perspiration excepting my feet which at some time would have been alarming; lay comfortably on the sofa, fell asleep till six; drank two cups of tea and two glasses of milk with a quantity of huckleberries. Some interesting Jacksonian discussion introduced by one of the gentlemen to the News Room. Took a pleasant walk, much cooler; generally admitted to have been the hottest day they have had; walked along the river, a great number of boys bathing, jumping head foremost from a raft covered with shingles. Found a steamboat leaves every morning for Newport, swallowed another glass of milk and went to bed at nine. The cars eight yards long.
Rose soon after six; walked through the market and up to the mill, whence I had a good view of the hill. Walked into a new chapel building for the Academy. Breakfast at half past seven: on further enquiry for William Cunliffe, a man with a small wagon said he was going that way if I could wait half an hour. Whilst waiting at a store, I saw a curious fly trap consisting of two thin boards with hinges, the inside lined with treacle then suddenly pressed together. Got out of the wagon and walked about a mile, found William and his son George; I was known by the latterbut not by his father; walked into the house just by, took some cider then walked into the mill; found the machinery good, about 100 pieces turned out weekly. Then went and bathed, most delightfully warm; then dined on salt beef; took a walk over a beautiful ridge, eating huckleberries and blackberries. Got into William's chariot and drove to his daughter living near by. She was gone into the wood but was sent for, and I saw four generations. The daughter very kindly enquired after my mother; they pressed me to stop for tea, but we drove on and just got into Providence before dark. Could not feel easy to leave without seeing Joseph, so fixed to take a gig and George was to go with me. Walked to the Newport steamboat and found it sailing at 7 on the Sunday morning. W. Cunliffe looking better and much lustier; seems very well off and happy with his family. Makes 2000 dollars clear profit.
Rose at six. Found G. C. waiting with a horse and gig (to go to visit Joseph); set off ¼ before seven, arrived soon after 10, above 18 miles: some parts sandy. A neat looking mill. I was quite unknown to G.'s wife and sister, but they were very glad to see me; and spoke much of my father. Joseph came soon after, looking old and quiet, but did not know me and seemed less affected. Walked through the mill which I fear is not doing much good; it is leased, and ⅔rds of the machinery is George's; it is not filled with looms and is short of water; also there is the expense of a manager which should be done by the sons. Poor quiet Joseph should have taken his brother's advice, put his money out to interest and with two houses at Providence he might have been comfortable. Five children, all at home. Left at three and called at a cotton mill about three miles off, and found John Makinson, Noah's eldest son, superintendent, married about a year ago to a pleasant sort of girl, that had worked with and known the family; the housewell furnished; she set to and baked bread for tea, this caused us to be later than we intended. Was glad to learn that his mother was still living though she had lately had another stroke. Told that John and Ann the two oldest had not behaved so well to their parents, but was pleased to find a change in John's views. The last hour was driven in the dark, thereby reminding me of my late dear father, but the horse was a very good one and arrived safe. Found George's father had been waiting some time, paid 3½ dollars. Bought two other pairs of socks. G. C.'s wife not well, and out of spirits; she seems aware that the concern is not doing well. Saw a snake crossing the road.
Rose before six. Put on my best that I might lose no time in dressing at Newport. A good deal of rain in the night. Taken in a coach to the steamboat. Charged 25 cents for about 100 yards. The weather cleared up and I had a pleasant sail. Found that Dr. Channing resided about five miles from Newport, and was known by everybody. Met the Boston and New York steamer. Stopped at the Eagle Hotel, did not like the old gruff fellow at the hotel, he could not let me have a room but only a bed with five others in the room; this I refused, and was told of another with three beds, but only two likely to be occupied; I was forced to take this, and then set off in quest of an Unitarian chapel. At length one was pointed out, on coming out I enquired the name of the preacher. A stranger from North Carolina; asked if any other Unitarian place of worship; he said this was not Unitarian but Baptist. I said it was Unitarian preaching whatever named. I entered a very neat place and heard part of a sermon by a smart young preacher. This proved Episcopalian; on returning to the Eagle was shown into a very small room with five beds. This I refused and was then shown the other with three. I asked if there was any Unitarian place of worship. I was told not, and foundit to be the case. The doctor will hardly be able to make amends for this miserable place. Just before dinner I met with a gentleman I had seen at Saratoga, and took a walk with him. After dinner we went to hear a Presbyterian who preached from John viii, v. 20; the congregation numerous, and singing was congregational, and as usual there was a large proportion of females. Then walked about a mile to a nice little bay where some boys were bathing; I also could not resist, notwithstanding the sharks; the waves were large and the shore sandy; I had a pleasant bathe. After tea we went to an Episcopalian Church, very full, but with 10 women to one man; should have expected their sweethearts would have been numerous. A young man preached, but not with much ability.
Rose at half past five, having slept better than I expected; all the three beds were occupied, and mine was not only small, but resting upon four sticks, and was so built that my head could touch the sloping ceiling from one part. A delightful morning; no letter at the Post Office. Three spitting boxes in the bar 16″ × 24″. Set off to visit Dr. Channing[27]at Gibson by the Boston stage; surprised to drive up to the house and greatly disappointed to find the Doctor leaving home by the same stage. I had only just time to give him the letter from Mr. Lee and shake hands with him. I took a walk into the garden then stepped into the house, introduced myself to the lady who proved to be Mrs. Channing and sat some time. Then took a walk into the adjoining wood; met with a stout good-looking youth, asked what relation the doctor was to him, and was told his father, and that he had a sister older, who had gone with his father; expected them to stay a fortnight.Saw a curious bee-hive, and walked again into the house; learned that the Dr. was generally in better health, that he had purposed preaching every other Sunday at Portsmouth, but yesterday had found himself unable, which I had seen noted in the Newport paper; he was engaged about six hours daily at his studies and often a good deal tired. Paid to Dr. C. and back, 75 cents. Left Newport at half past two, fare 5 dollars; at six a dense fog, so that they had to keep sounding and frequently stopped the engines. Took coffee and fish, etc., with about 200 people; walked again some time on deck, still very hazy, so that I might as well go to bed. A gentleman told me of a decent berth at the extreme stern and I soon took possession. In some parts the sea was smooth, then boiling, also large waves.
Awoke several times, and got up at half past five. Found all my clothes quite damp, excepting my trousers which I had placed in my berth, and gave coat, waistcoat and shirt to be dried. Got down my portmanteau and put on other things. Went on deck at six, found we were nearly 30 miles from New York; after some time I went down and found my clothes dry and put on the shirt. On coming up we were passing Hell Gate[28], a very narrow and rocky passage. Some good country houses: a large new jail. A fine view of the city and shipping; every now and then a jutting wharf about the length of a ship. Arrived at New York at eight; in walking to the Post Office with Mrs. Channing's letter, I met with Thomas Dean, and got my two letters from Mr. Baker and C. D. Found J. Dean looking thinner. We walked through some auction stores to J. Hulme's son-in-law; he keeps a very large Book-Stall; hence I entered an auction of watches, afterwards of wine, etc.; then to the Exchange, but soon got tired of standing to read the papers.Read over again my letters; devoured two peaches; was charged 3d.T. D. kindly invited me to his house; had purchased one for 11,000 dollars; would have given 12 as he considered it worth 13 or 14 thousand dollars. Found a splendid house; a black waiter; dined in the basement storey; silver forks. James drove me out in a phaeton; called for my portmanteau, and then took me to another part of the city; returned to tea, afterwards went to Niblos Gardens. Had dinner and soon after getting home there was thunder and some rain. Mrs. D. much as when in England, their little girl much indulged; did not see the infant.
Rose at five, set off for Rockaway bathing place. The horse sadly infested with flies which made it bleed in many places. Passed a large swamp, and here first met with that troublesome insect the mosquito. Arrived at 10; a very large hotel containing 186 rooms. Sat down and read with much pleasure the remains of a Bolton Chronicle. Set off to bathe; the sand beautifully white, the breakers very large in consequence of the thunder and wind last night. Could hardly swim but amused myself in standing against the breakers. Troubled with mosquitoes and also a little pain in my ear, which had continued a day or two and prevented me from going on my journey. At half past two music announced dinner, the ladies were accompanied by the gentlemen. Found our places at the entrance into the room being the last comers. A large bill of fare particularly of wines; we had a bottle of claret and I ate a head of corn, and relished it better than before. About 160 persons. After dinner we had a pleasant ramble down the shore talking over old matters at home. Returned to tea, again serenaded by music; then read from English papers; walked in to see them dance: went to bed at half past nine. At noon on the stage coming up one of the horses fell down, overdone with fatigue and heat; got up and fell down several timesand died in about half an hour. A limit to their sufferings. Our room No. 155.
Rose at five; a pleasant morning; found the breakers still more than I expected. On the road to Jamaica terribly vexed by mosquitoes; stockings coloured with blood. Several farms for sale; overstocked I guessed with these terrible insects. Got breakfast near Jamaica. Washed and took a little refreshment. Set off in one of the stages and arrived at New York a little before 12; called on R. Crook but did not meet with him. Walked into Broadway was asked 2/7 for cotton gloves; purchased a book of psalm-tunes for 1 dollar. Went to see the great hotel building in Broadway; about 100 men at work, most of them Irish. Went with J. D. through the register office where an account is kept of all the titles (to estates?) and mortgages. Rode to dinner in one of the stages, the usual charge 6d.but a quantity of tickets may be purchased at half price. The distance of the stage about two miles; experienced great inconvenience from the excessive itching occasioned by the mosquito bites in the morning. After dinner we set out to see James's horse; found it not well and no wonder, the stable in a cellar; the stalls narrow; a suffocating spot; then walked across what is called East River to see the dry docks; the ships are placed upon a frame, and then by means of an endless chain wound up on to the shore to be repaired. The tides here seldom vary more than three or four feet; on our return found Jackson and his friend Ingham; they stopped two hours laughing and talking all the time.
Got up at half past six; a good night with only one scratch, though a good deal of inflammation most of the morning. After breakfast played some of the psalm tunes. At 9 set off with J. D. to the end of the island, a very pleasant driveand beautiful opening into the Hudson. Bathed in a rather muddy creek. Pulled an apple on going which we liked, so on returning got a further supply. Some men fishing and others gathering oysters. Got a comfortable dinner; then drove on the other side towards Harlem a fine spacious road.
Many trotters in their sulkies and others driving very fast. Appearance of a storm. Only charged 2 dollars for the horse. Played several psalm tunes. Engaged a vehicle to take me to the steam boat in the morning. Went sadly to bed. Packed up the needful; besides the mosquitoes, there was a little grey insect like a louse that bit very sharply; still itching and swelled from the mosquitoes.
Rose ¼ before 5; found breakfast not out; got coffee; the wagon not coming. James Dean set off to meet the man; the portmanteau was placed on; drove rapidly down just in time. Got on board theNorth America, found many hundreds of passengers. Charged to Albany only 50 cents just what I was to pay for being brought to the steamer; an immense steamer, the Captain said 400 or 500 passengers; a much smaller number than usual. A quick way of putting out and taking in passengers: the boat is lowered, they take a long rope and steer to the landing-place, then haul in towards the steamer which scarcely stops. The rope is attached to the end of the helm, which is 4 or 5 yards wide and gives great power, and the helm is always placed in the fore part of the vessel. Saw some fish (sturgeons) jump a yard out of the water.
A piano and cradle on board. Arrived at Catskill[29]half past three; got some excellent cider and bread and butter. Set off to the mountain ¼ past 4; a chaise near being upset. Fare 1 dollar said to be 13 miles; then a turnpike gate, and arrived at the summit at ¼ past 8; having been in four hoursin one part alternately hot and in another piercingly cold. A beautiful moonlight night; the Hudson River visible; very cold so that we sat round the fire as if it were Christmas.
Rose at half past six, though having rested very ill. In the middle of the night in consequence of the earache and not sleeping, went to the top of the house, and had a sublime view; we appeared to be in the midst of pine trees; the road looked quite narrow; the valley studded with fields and forests; clouds scattered here and there, and the lake glittering in the distance closing up with mountains; on the other side mountains with pines covered to the summit. During the day I had a delightful walk with a very intelligent Frenchman from Washington, to the falls, which are stupendous but short of water; the rock seems to project more than Niagara; the reason is because the upper stratum is hard and the lower soft and crumbling; then walked to the upper part of the mountain above the hotel, and then had decidedly the most magnificent view I ever saw in my life; besides these wonderful prospects there is a constant delightful breeze, so that if I had time and friends I could pass a week very well.
I consented to defer going till four, as only another person was going and he was willing to wait. It began to rain and felt cold like our English summers, and it was very well we got the views this morning, as soon after twelve the rain came on, which determined me to take the stage. Paid 3 dollars to Delhi, 65 miles, ½ a dollar for tea and bed. Eleven in the stage and all covered up, but my side. Had some pleasant chat with the people, more particularly an Englishman who had been several years in France. Met again my French friend. Went to bed at 8; heavy rain.
Called up at half past one; raining very hard; only fivein the stage; by slipping across got a good place; left at half past two. At five at Cairo, next stage. Ascending the mountain I got up with the driver; fair, and a very extensive view up the valley; several houses on the table part of the mountain.
Got to Wareham ¼ before 9. Washed and shaved by borrowed tackle. A delightful drive down the mountain; many turns in the road diversifying the view; many pines dying, large tanneries. Morrisville, the last four miles rough road; got to Hobart 10 minutes after 2, most of the last 12 miles rough road; a good many saw mills on the way; the turnpike gates, a ladder let down from the house hardly sufficiently to leave head room. Not much regularity in conveying the mail owing to uncertain state of the roads. Further delay caused by not always dining at the same place. At Bloomville at ¼ past 4; the last seven miles the valley has been widening. Arrived at Delhi ¼ before 6. Took my place on to Green; paid 2 dollars 38 cents. Immediately passed over a considerable mountain; a very rough road and a lame horse. Got a basin of milk and a slice of bread which proved a good supper. On setting out I took my seat on the top, but was told by the driver that he had another going with him, but I did not yield, and he put a negro to drive both me and the horses, but it did not do. I was glad to have an opportunity of showing the Americans that I made no distinction.
Passed a very restless night in the coach. At Bainbridge made to wait nearly an hour, then to collect 4 ladies and two men, so that the stage was considered quite full. After breakfast paid 30 cents, also 75 cents for Binghampton on my way to Montrose; could not have a seat by the driver. Found a very intelligent American, he depicts divisions amongst themselves chiefly caused by the ignorant and immoral, especially the Irish; arrived at half past eleven.Paid a dollar to Montrose and set off at once; the morning and scenery delightful, and the company made me not think of sleeping. Left Binghampton at one. Crickets chirping almost at the top of the Catskill Mountains. The vehicle from Binghampton a clumsy concern, but as there was only a boy besides myself I had control over it, as if it were my own though carrying the mail. I walked up the steepest parts and now and then had a chat with the settlers. Partook of some nice blackberries, got to Montrose at 8; very fair travelling considering the mountainous paths we had come over. Find Pike 20 miles off and no stage till the day after to-morrow, so that I might as well have remained at Binghampton another day, but unless there be something interesting, I always find myself most happy when on the wing bringing me nearer home; got tea, and to bed at half past eight, in hopes of getting up the rest I had lost the two and may be the three last nights. Put away the wool from my sore.
Rose soon after seven; found no arrangements made for getting me on to Pike; resolved to go immediately in some way. Informed of a person going 13 miles on the road. At ten he came and a very sensible man I found him; said the bank had registered certain wealthy individuals improperly, and therefore the charter had been refused; this more than the removal of the deposits had injured the credit and business of the country; admitted that there was too much paper money but thought it should have been lessened gradually; Hindle & Co. should have been called to account. The President had no right to renew the deposits without consent of the Senate, and hence their displeasure; the Representatives support him on account of popularity. A most interesting account of his father who had lived 50 years in one house and unwilling to sleep from home. Had 15 children, 8 still living. At the end of 13 miles Hitchcock'ssaw-mill; he took me to a farmer who agreed to go on with me about 8 miles further; after travelling some time I stepped out to enquire at a house on the road side for Noah Makinson. "He lives here," I was told. Immediately Noah appeared looking much thinner and older; did not know me. One of the daughters set off to fetch her mother; in less than two hours she came with her two daughters; on entering she gazed a long time, said she did not know me, and then cried out "Is it Robert?" and almost fainted; she suffered from a difficulty of breathing but soon was better, and we chatted away the evening. A sheep was killed.
Rose at seven. Found Alice better than I expected considering the hurry and fatigue of yesterday, though thin and weak she has much of her old features, not so deaf as I expected; sits a good deal, often smiling. An American breakfast; coffee, beef steaks, eggs, tart and cakes like crumpet, made from buck wheat. The house not large but comfortable; a very large new barn with shippen, stable and granary and a good stock of hay. Had agreed for the same with a neighbour on the following terms, to make the hay and have one half. The house pleasantly situated on the slope of a hill on a good road; nearly 80 acres 30 chains on each side of the road; a good spring of water near the house; seven cows, two horses, pigs, geese and poultry and guinea-hens. The breakfast consists of coffee, bread and butter, eggs, beef or mutton with buck wheat cakes resembling crumpets also blackberry pies and potatoes; nearly the same at dinner, and again at supper with tea. Make their own sugar from the maple; a hole is bored into the trees; a chip placed below to guide the sap into a tub; this is done with about a hundred trees at the beginning of April; a fire place is made in the woods and the pans are hung over by means of long wooden hooks, and the sap is boiled down into sugar, a supply for the year. They maketheir own candles and soap, the latter from the wood ashes. Went to see many people who appear very comfortably settled. Noah surprised the family by consenting to go with us.
John is married and settled in Rhode Island: Ann a nice spirited girl employed in tailoring and has seen a good deal of society. Mary a most cheerful and pleasing young woman married to a young man Aery Gridley, a carpenter and also farmer, a steady active young man not too good for her. James assists his father but prefers the joiner's business; Hannah rather lusty, does a good deal in the house and also assists Ann; Martha the youngest, her spine injured in her youth, a very sly little person and says very droll things. Noah often affected when talking of old friends in England; related some grievances of the family not treating him with respect, particularly his two sons. The daughters too fond of visiting and dressing. This evening a neighbour's dog catches an animal called a woodchuck somewhat resembling a beaver; it is considered good food and indeed is to be prepared for dinner. Mary and her husband came about eight and returned about half past ten. Besides woodchucks they eat the black and grey squirrels, the yellow and striped are not liked; both are killed because they devour the grain, a large cat frequently catches them. Two horses are great favourites with all the family, the best was hurt last Christmas by a cow. They have two waggons.
The breakfast profuse as usual. Went to watch logs being sawn to be burned, chiefly hemlock, a species of pine; other sorts brought home for fires; went out to gather blackberries; all the neighbours very sociable and kind, particularlyattentive to Alice when poorly. Nothing like stealing is known; most of the houses without a lock or bolt. Alice was first ill at the end of January, has had difficulty of breathing, but was better; at the end of April had a sort of fit that caused her to be insensible for some time; in June after severe coughing she commenced spitting blood that continued three weeks; violent palpitations of the heart, greatly relieved by digitalis that she still takes; perspires a good deal and one eye is still weaker than the other and is often running; so ill was she that her burial suit was prepared. The battlements of bridges generally coped with wood.
Got both horses to the waggon, and all but the two old folks set off to the Meeting House about 6 miles; rather late, found a great many other horses and waggons, also one or two better looking carriages or as we should say phaetons; there is no shed as in some places so that in winter or wet weather the horses must suffer terribly. The Minister Samuel Henderson, an Irishman, was just beginning the sermon; very orthodoxical and loud; rapped the Universalists as relying upon the mercy of God and forgetting His justice. The singing, German hymns, chiefly done by the choir. After service notice was given of the Lord's Supper, and those in the centre were requested to go to the sides to make room for the communicants; after the bread was broken it was handed to the deacons, then all arose and a prayer was delivered, the same with the wine. An urgent request that they would not bring the service into disgrace by any immoral conduct; nearly 2 when finished, therefore no service in the afternoon and went and dined at Mary's, had tea, pies, cakes and cucumbers; then a pleasant chat afterwards and a walk through the orchard; not much fruit in consequence of snow and ice on the 15th of May. On getting back, several neighbours came to sit with us and we chatted till near ten. Alice retired earlier.
After breakfast went with James and Ann to Pike. Rode on the back of the waggon. A pleasant walk; entered one of the stores filled as usual with a great quantity of articles. Walked back with Ann who said a good deal about her father's temper. I admitted that he was often unreasonable, but as he intended the best they should bear up with it, as it might be possible that a time would come when such conduct would prove the most satisfactory. Ann said her mother was quite the contrary, pleased to see them get on and wished them to have a little company; was told that there were very few round about but what were more or less in their debt, they owed nothing; mentioned a person who has had 300 dollars of Mary's, and now had 50 belonging to Ann for which they got interest; Ann the prettiest, Mary pleasing and cheerful, Hannah lusty and good tempered, Martha a most droll piece; James appears well disposed but cannot get on with his father; this the case with one brother John but he has left home. Being the last night we had a family chat.
In the morning Mary came to see me off. All the family seemed in sorrow at the thought of my going; continually finding something to send; opened my portmanteau two or three times. Half past eleven brought the stage and I was forced to take my leave, all of us greatly affected, particularly Alice (the mother) and I, that could never expect to see each other again. I shook hands with each one and said to them "God bless you" and then hurried out of the house. Mary came on part of the way. Got to Orrell ¼ past 1 to await the mail from Oswego; proceeded in 20 minutes; arrived at Towanda half past four; the last 8 miles very disagreeable, warm and dusty. Paid 87½ cents. Met with Mr. Overton an English gentleman who said he would call upon me. He did so, took me to his house, gave me winethen took me to another Englishman Mr. Wandsey a hearer of Dr. Rees. His sister was to accompany Miss Martineau. Paid fare to Berwick 3½ dollars, and 31 cents for tea and bed. Very glad to find such favourable accounts of Mr. Kay and his family. All along the locusts had been destroyed.
Left Towanda ¼ before six, a misty morning; the road lined with walnut and oak trees and the wild vine; only myself in the stage. Enquired if no mistakes in the charge for bed and tea, said it was the usual charge. Crossed over the Sugar Mountain so called because of so many maples; one part of the walk very disagreeable through ferns and over old trees and all this before breakfast. Arrived at Cherrytown village half past one, without any food for man or beast since setting out, luckily I got a draught of milk; the passengers three young people who had been at a wedding. Had a most excellent breakfast and dinner, good coffee all for 25 cents. This stage 4 horses 21 miles, six times a week, one of the horses has done it 9 years. Not much of a prospect from the summit on account of the trees. A Northumbrian living at the top said America was the place for a poor man; 5 or 6 families came out before him, and only one had failed; and he had property. In some parts ascending the mountain the very worst road I have seen, one of the poor horses lost a shoe, but could have no help till we got to the end, 21 miles: arrived soon after eight, the horse being much less lame than could have been expected. At Columbus our crazy coach had to be girded as it had to go over a very dangerous ridge. We got safe to Berwick at ½ past 12, got coffee 25 cents; passage 1¾ dollars.
A pleasant ride along the canal and the Susquehanna, free from dust. Got to Northumberland before 10. Largefrogs at one part in the canal. Called on Mr. Kay, he had had an illness which prostrated him much and been unable to preach during that time. Had a long and interesting chat with the family, 4 sons and 4 daughters, the eldest are smart girls, one about 24, the other 30, the youngest 16. Dined with them in a very pleasant family way, roasted mutton and Yorkshire pudding. Mrs. K. gave me a note to Dr. Priestley's[30]grandson at the Bank, and desired me to ask him to tea. Spent the evening at the Kay's, very nice people, the second daughter very pleasing and difficult to leave, perhaps would have been impossible in a short time. Mr. Priestley joined us.
Met the gentleman I had seen at Montrose. Paid for bed and breakfast, good coffee, 37½ cents, and 2½ dollars to Pottsville. Walked with Mr. Priestley to his grandfather's grave and also to the house where he died; a beautiful willow planted by the doctor. Spent an hour with Mr. Kay. Left Northumberland at 10, changed horses after 13½ miles. A most delightful morning.
Called at four. Took up a gentleman who proved to be an English Catholic priest, very intelligent and pleasant. Soon got on the railway, a pleasant ride through the forest, got a glass of milk; breakfasted at Tuscarora, 25 cents. Passed Tamaqua, where a Catholic chapel had lately been erected; my companion the minister. Travelled through a narrow path covered with brushwood; came to the summit where an immense mass of coal is worked like an open stone quarry; the coal is taken away on rails to Mauch Chunk and then by canal to Philadelphia, etc., etc. The waggon and cars are let down by one man who can move a drag upon each by means of a connecting rope, and the mulesalso ride down to draw up the empty waggons. Descended in 45 minutes 40 miles. Mauch Chunk most romantically situated at the foot of the mountains almost overhanging the town. Left my friend the priest. Arrived at Lehigh Gap ¼ past 2, an interesting drive, changing sides with the canal and river. One of the old greys like that yesterday, made a few false steps. We now left the canal and river; a surly driver, near losing my coat; some walnuts; a good deal of Dutch spoken in this neighbourhood. Arrived at Easton ¼ past seven. Finding no direct conveyance to Trenton and that the fare to Philadelphia is only one dollar, I have agreed to go to Philadelphia. Paid for supper and bed 50 cents. Got to bed at 8.
Called at half past three; left at four; passed over a bridge of wood suspended by iron chains, took a seat with the driver; a little drizzling rain; the button trees[31]again; apples more plentiful; the drive beautiful along the river (Delaware), high hills on each side; the woods a little tinted; some thorn hedges; a good many walnut trees. Had coffee and pancakes, paid 30 cents. The land generally better cleared and the houses more substantially built. Passed a funeral of a woman who burned herself to death yesterday by smoking. A long range of stabling shut up, and the hotel changed into a private house. The driver said these canals and railways would be the ruin of the country. Most beautiful weeping willows; some of the slender branches hanging down 5 or 6 feet. Passed the race course or rather trotting course; this is generally run by drawing a light high-wheeled sulky. Stopped at the White Swan Hotel, Philadelphia, where the coach stopt; found it to be a good inn but rather too far from the Exchange, etc. After washing and changing my dress I called upon the Masons to know about worship in the evening; went and heard a mostexcellent sermon by Mr. Furness: Heb. 12 and 2 verse, "Look to Him." He mentioned the general desire to do well but the difficulty of performance, the character of Christ the most influential; mentioned the perplexity attending the belief in His two natures.
Returned early to bed, and this morning found heavy rain; how extremely fortunate that I have completed my tour in such brilliant weather, not having had occasion for an umbrella since leaving Philadelphia. Borrowed an old ragged umbrella and called at Mr. Hulme's, found Mr. H. gone to N.Y. and also Mr. Rollanson gone from home. Kindly invited to stop with Mr. H. during my stay at Philadelphia. Called upon Mr. Kay's son; found him in a large book store; then called upon Mr. Scholfield but not seeing him promised to call at three. Walked to the Exchange and read the English papers, after dinner went and sat three hours with Mr. Scholfield; found him less altered than most of my old acquaintances, he lives with his daughter who is married to a Londoner, named Patten, and carries on the stay or corset business. Mr. S. a very sensible man greatly opposed to Jackson; has some little municipal office; well acquainted with the Crooks, Mrs. Marsden, and others. Had tea with the Masons, and had a good deal of talk about old matters in England. Servetus, a very respectable young man carrying on an extensive blacking trade; the sister a very steady girl had lived some time with Mr. Furness. The old man as eccentric as ever, his wife looking old but cheerful.
Called at Kay's book store and selected a few books to send to N. M. Then called again upon Ridings; after dinner walked to the wharf and saw a steamer going to N.Y. Observed a good many persons fishing without much success;then to the Exchange news room. Read the account of Mrs. Hardcastle's death, G. Crompton's and M. Houghton's marriage, and Mr. Shepherd made into a Doctor. Then strolled past the Mansion House into Walnut Street and Chesnut Street. Took tea at Mr. Hulme's, found a younger son who is preparing to practise medicine, also Francis Taylor on his way to N.Y. to see his mother. Met Mr. Rollanson; the younger brother gone to Louisville. Had some nice peaches and melon at supper. Invited to dinner to-morrow which I could not refuse. After the rain the streets, particularly the footpaths and white marble steps appear remarkably clean. Mr. Scholfield says there is a person who has ten thousand peach trees in one orchard, and 4 such orchards.
Called at Mr. Kay's printing place and found a son of J. Haslam's. Then called upon the father who is become very gray; the son also is turning gray; he was settled many years at a college at Charleston advantageously, but was obliged to give up on account of health; he has now a small school which is on the increase; a good apparatus; his mother well acquainted with uncle Thomas's wife, and his father a companion of my uncles and father. Mr. Scholfield called this morning to say that he expected Mr. John Wood at his house to meet me. Selected some more books for N. M.'s family and wrote two letters to N. M., and his daughter Mary. At two dined at Mr. Hulme's, met another son of Dr. Taylor's employed at a manufactory. After dinner walked to a private museum; a good collection of birds, shells, etc., also some fine works on natural history with beautiful coloured plates; an immense collection of specimens of plants bequeathed to the institution. A skeleton riding on horseback made ludicrous by a spider's web resembling a bridle. Thence we visited Mr. Pierpoint's garden. Took tea at Mr. Scholfield's but did not see Mr. Wood. Then setoff to an election meeting and heard some good speaking; a little monkey not 8 years old smoking a cigar. An attempt to disturb the meeting by a cry of fire and then the engines, but it did not take. Found at the hotel, Ridings, Haslam, Mason, J. Hodkinson also the Newcastle gentleman.
Walked through the market though not market day, a large supply of everything, the butchers in clean shirts and some with smart collars; vegetables of every form and colour, at least ten cart loads of melons six to twenty four inches long. Called upon Mrs. Hughes once Miss Robson, talked about Mrs. Kay, Jeffery Smith, Alice Mason and Esther Scholes, then to the book sale confined to the trade; told young Frank Taylor he would soon make his fortune and then come and spend it in England. On mentioning my ignorance about quills, F. T. said it was a mysterious business and booksellers were often deceived; the same with sealing wax till it was tried. F. T. desired me to send C. D. over and he would show him 10,000 different insects every year. Called again upon the Haslams and found myself invited to spend the evening at Mr. Vaughan's. Walked through the rooms, sat in Dr. Franklin's chair and also that of Columbus. Invited to breakfast with Mr. V., asked whether tea or coffee; returned, and spent the evening with the Haslams. Called again at Mr. Hulme's but Mr. H. had not returned from N.Y. Urged very much to write on my arrival. Mrs. H. desires me to say at the Dean's foundry, that her son was comfortably settled upon 400 acres of land in Canada; and had children.
Called upon J. Scholfield on my way to Mr. Vaughan's; found Mr. V. busy writing, spent upwards of an hour most delightfully with Mr. V. and his old acquaintance Mr. De Pontean. I said to the old gentleman they seemed to know each other, he replied, "We have been 50 yearstrying to find out each other." Walked to see Dr. Franklin's grave; by means of a chair I scrambled up the wall and read as follows: