THE ROOSEVELT STARTS FOR HOME—ESQUIMO VILLAGES—NEW DOGS AND NEW DOG FIGHTS
It was two-thirtyp. m., July 17, 1909, that theRooseveltpointed her bow southward and we left our winter quarters and Cape Sheridan. We were on our journey home, all hands as happy as when, a year previous, we had started on our way north, with the added satisfaction of complete success. The ship had steamed but a short distance, when, owing to the rapidly drifting ice in the channel, she had to be made fast to a floeberg. At ten-thirtyp. m., the lines were loosed and a new start made. Without further incident, we reached Black Cape.
In rounding the cape the ship encountered a terrific storm, and it was with the greatest difficulty that she made any headway. The storm increased and theRoosevelthad to remain in the channel, surrounded by the tightly wedgedfloes, at the mercy of the wind. The gale continued until the evening of the 20th. The constant surging back and forth of the channel-pack, with the spring tides and the several huge masses of ice, which repeatedly crashed against the ship's sides, caused a delay of twelve days in Robeson Channel opposite Lincoln Bay. Throughout the width of the entire channel nothing could be seen but small pools of open water; two seals were seen sporting in one of these pools, and one of the Esquimos attempted to kill them, but his aim proved false.
It was not until the 25th that the ship was able to move of her own free will, small leads having opened in close proximity to her. Ootah shot a seal in one of the leads, and also harpooned a narwhal, but he did not succeed in securing either. His brother Egingwah on the following day shot two seals and harpooned a narwhal, and he secured all three of his prizes. The Esquimos had a grand feast off the skin of the narwhal, which they esteem as a great delicacy.
By the 27th theRoosevelthad drifted as far south as Wrangell Bay, and it was here thatSlocum (Inighito) shot and secured a hood-seal, which weighed over six hundred pounds, and seal-steaks were added to the bill-of-fare.
The snow storms of the two days ceased on the 28th, and when the weather cleared sufficiently for us to ascertain our whereabouts, we were much surprised to find that we had drifted back north, opposite Lincoln Bay. During the day the wind shifted to the north. Again we drifted southward, until, just off Cape Beechey, the narrowest part of Robeson Channel, a lead stretching southward for a distance of five miles was sighted, and into this open water the ship steamed until the lead terminated in Kennedy Channel, opposite Lady Franklin Bay, where theRooseveltwas ice-bound until August 4, drifting with the pack until we were in a direct line with Cape Tyson and Bellot Isle. Three seals were captured, one a hood-seal weighing 624 pounds, being eight feet eleven inches in length; the other two were small ring-seals.
By tena. m.of the 4th, the ice had slackened so considerably that theRoosevelt, under full steam, set out and rapidly worked her way down Kennedy Channel. From CrozierIsland to Cape D'Urville she steamed through practically open water, but a dense fog compelled us to make fast to a large floe when almost opposite Cape Albert. It was not until onea. m.of the 7th, despite several attempts, that the ship got clear and steamed south again. Several small leads were noticed and numerous narwhals were seen, but none were captured.
At three-thirtya. m., when nearing Cape Sabine, we observed that the barometer had dropped to 29.73. A storm was coming, and every effort was made to reach Payer Harbor, but before half of the distance had been covered, the storm broke with terrific violence. The force of the gale was such that, while swinging the boats inboard, we were drenched and thoroughly chilled by the sheets of icy spray, which saturated us and instantly froze. TheRooseveltwas blown over to starboard until the rails were submerged. To save her, she was steered into Buchanan Bay, under the lee of the cliffs, where she remained until the morning of August 8.
At an early hour, we steamed down Buchanan Bay, passed Cocked Hat Island, anda little later, Cape Sabine. At Cape Sabine was located Camp Clay, the starvation camp of the Lady Franklin Bay expedition of 1881-1883, where the five survivors of the twenty-three members of the expedition were rescued.
We entered Smith Sound. Instead of sailing on to Etah, Peary ordered the ship into Whale Sound, in order that walrus-hunting could be done, so that the Esquimos should have a plentiful supply of meat for the following winter. Three walrus were captured, when a storm sprang up with all of the suddenness of storms in this neighborhood, and the ship crossed over from Cape Alexander to Cape Chalon. Cape Chalon is a favorite resort of the Esquimos, and is known as Peter-ar-wick, on account of the walrus that are to be found here during the months of February and March.
At Nerke, just below Cape Chalon, we found the three Esquimo families of Ahsayoo, Tungwingwah, and Teddylingwah, and it was from these people we first learned of Dr. Cook's safe return from Ellesmere Land. In spite of the fact that theRooseveltwas overloaded with dogs, paraphernalia, and Esquimos, these three families were taken aboard.
With them were several teams of dogs. The dogs aboard ship were the survivors of the pack that had been with us all through the campaign, and a number of litters of puppies that had been whelped since the spring season. Our dogs were well acquainted with each other and dog fights were infrequent and of little interest, but the arrival of the first dog of the new party was the signal for the grandest dog fight I have ever witnessed. I feel justified in using the language of the fairy Ariel, in Shakespeare's "Tempest": "Now is Hell empty, and all the devils are here."
Backward and forward, the foredeck of the ship was a howling, snarling, biting, yelping, moving mass of fury, and it was a long round of fully ten or fifteen minutes before the two king dogs of the packs got together, and then began the battle for supremacy of the pack. It lasted for some time. It would have been useless to separate them. They would decide sooner or later, and it was better to have it over, even if one or both contestants were killed. At length the fight was ended; our oldking dog, Nalegaksoah, the champion of the pack, and the laziest dog in it, was still the king. After vanquishing his opponent and receiving humble acknowledgments, King Nalegaksoah went stamping up and down before the pack and received the homage due him; the new dogs, whining and fawning and cringingly submissive, bowed down before him.
The chief pleasure of the Esquimo dogs is fighting; two dogs, the best of friends, will hair-pull and bite each other for no cause whatever, and strange dogs fight at sight; team-mates fight each other on the slightest of provocations; and it seems as though sometimes the fights are held for the purpose of educating the young. When a fight is in progress, it is the usual sight to see several mother dogs, with their litters, occupying ring-side seats. I have often wondered what chance a cat would stand against an Esquimo dog.
The ship kept on, and I had turned in and slept, and on arising had found that we had reached a place called Igluduhomidy, where a single family was located. Living with thisfamily was a very old Esquimo, Merktoshah, the oldest man in the whole tribe, and not a blood-relation to any member of it. He had crossed over from the west coast of Smith Sound the same year that Hall's expedition had wintered there, and has lived there ever since. He had been a champion polar bear and big game hunter, and though now a very old man, was still vigorous and valiant, in spite of the loss of one eye.
We stopped at Kookan, the most prosperous of the Esquimo settlements, a village of five tupiks (skin tents), housing twenty-four people, and from there we sailed to the ideal community of Karnah. Karnah is the most delightful spot on the Greenland coast. Situated on a gently southward sloping knoll are the igloos and tupiks, where I have spent many pleasant days with my Esquimo friends and learned much of the folk-lore and history. Lofty mountains, sublime in their grandeur, overtower and surround this place, and its only exposure is southward toward the sun. In winter its climate is not severe, as compared with other portions of this country, and in the perpetual daylight of summer, lifehere is ideal. Rivulets of clear, cold water, the beds of which are grass- and flower-covered, run down the sides of the mountains and, but for the lack of trees, the landscape is as delightful as anywhere on earth.
TWO NARROW ESCAPES—ARRIVAL AT ETAH—HARRY WHITNEY—DR. COOK'S CLAIMS
From Karnah theRooseveltsailed to Itiblu, where hunting-parties secured thirty-one walrus and one seal. By the 11th of August we had reached the northern shore of Northumberland Island, where we were delayed by storm. It was shortly before noon of this day that we barely escaped another fatal calamity.
Chief Wardwell, while cleaning the rifle of Commander Peary, had the misfortune to have the piece explode while in his hands. From some unknown cause a cartridge was discharged, the projectile pierced two thick partitions of inch-and-a-half pine, and penetrated the cabin occupied by Professor MacMillan and Mr. Borup. The billet of that bullet was the shoulder and forearm of Professor MacMillan, who at the time was soundasleep in his berth. He had been lying with his arm doubled and his head resting on his hand. A half inch nearer and the bullet would have entered his brain.
As is always the case with narrow escapes, I, too, had a narrow escape, for that same bullet entered the partition on its death-dealing mission at identically the same spot where a few minutes previouslymyhead had rested. Dr. Goodsell was quickly aroused, he attended Professor MacMillan, and in a short time he diagnosed the case as a "gun-shot wound." Finding no bones broken, or veins or arteries open, he soon had the Professor bandaged and comfortable.
At the time of the accident to Professor MacMillan the ship was riding at anchor, but with insufficient slack-way, so in the afternoon, when the excitement had somewhat abated, Captain Bob decided to give the ship more chain, for a storm was imminent, and he gave the order accordingly. The boatswain, in his haste to execute the order, and overestimating the amount of chain in the locker, permitted all of it to run overboard. We were in a predicament, with the stormupon us, no anchor to hold the boat, and a savage, rocky shore on which we were in danger of being wrecked. There was a small five-hundred-pound anchor with a nine-inch cable of about one hundred and fifty fathoms remaining, which was repeatedly tried, but the ship was too much for this feather-weight anchor, and dragged it at will. Commander Peary, with his usual foresight, had ordered steam as soon as the approach of the storm was noticed, and now that the steam was up, he ordered that the ship be kept head-on, and steam up and down the coast until the storm abated. The storm lasted until the night of August 13, and the best part of the following day was spent by two boat-crews of twelve men, in grappling for the lost anchor and chain, and not until they had secured it and restored it once more to its locker were they permitted to rest. With the anchor secure, walrus-hunting commenced afresh, and on the ice-floes between Hakluyt and Northumberland Islands thirty more walrus were secured.
On August 16, theRooseveltsteamed back to Karnah, and the Esquimo people who intended living there for the following winterwere landed. A very large supply of meat was landed also; in addition to the meat quite a number of useful presents, hatchets, knives, needles, some boards for the making and repairing of sledges, and some wood for lance-and harpoon-staves, and a box full of soap were landed. This inventory of presents may seem cheap and paltry to you, but to these natives such presents as we made were more appreciated than the gift of many dollars would be by a poverty-stricken family in this country. With the materials that Commander Peary furnished would be made the weapons of the chase, the tools of the seamstress, and the implements of the home-maker. The Esquimos have always known how to utilize every factor furnished by nature, and what has been given to them by the Commander has been given with the simple idea of helping them to make their life easier, and proves again the axiom, "The Lord helps those who help themselves."
After disembarking the Karnah contingent, the ship steamed to Etah, arriving there on the afternoon of August 17. As theRooseveltwas entering the harbor of Etah, allhands were on deck and on the lookout, for it was here that we were again to come in touch with the world we had left behind a year before. A large number of Esquimos were running up and down the shore, but there was no sign of the expected ship. Quickly a boat was lowered, and I saw to it that I was a member of the crew of that boat, and when we reached the beach the first person to greet me was old Panikpah, greasy, smiling, and happy as if I were his own son. I quickly recognized my old friend Pooadloonah, who greeted me with a merry laugh, and my misgivings as to the fate of this precious pair were dispelled. If you will remember, Panikpah and Pooadloonah were the two Esquimos who found, when on our Poleward journey, just about the time we had struck the "Big Lead," that there were a couple of fox-traps, or something like that, that they had forgotten to attend to, and that it was extremely necessary for them to go back and square up their accounts. Here they were, fat, smiling, and healthy; and I apprehend somewhat surprised to see us, but they bluffed it out well.
Murphy and the young man Pritchard were also here. Murphy and Pritchard were the members of the crew who had been left here to guard the provisions of the expedition, and to trade with the Esquimos. Another person also was there to greet us; but who had kept himself alive and well by his own pluck and clear grit, and who reported on meeting the Commander of having had a most satisfactory and enjoyable experience. I refer to Mr. Harry Whitney, the young man from New Haven, Conn., who had elected at the last hour, the previous autumn, to remain at Etah, to hunt the big game of the region. When theRoosevelthad sailed north from Etah, the previous August, he had been left absolutely alone; theErikhad sailed for home, and there was no way out of this desolate land for him until the relief ship came north the following year, or theRooseveltcame south to take him aboard. His outfit and equipment were sufficient for him and complete, but he had shared it with the natives until it was exhausted, and after that he had reverted to the life of the aborigines. When theRooseveltreached Etah, Mr.Whitney was an Esquimo; but within one hour, he had a bath, a shave, and a hair-cut, and was the same mild-mannered gentleman that we had left there in the fall. He had gratified his ambitions in shooting musk-oxen, but he had not killed a single polar bear.
At Etah there were two boys, Etookahshoo and Ahpellah, boys about sixteen or seventeen years old, who had been with Dr. Cook for a year, or ever since he had crossed the channel to Ellesmere Land and returned again. These boys are the two he claims accompanied him to the North Pole. To us, up there at Etah, such a story was so ridiculous and absurd that we simply laughed at it. We knew Dr. Cook and his abilities; he had been the surgeon on two of Peary's expeditions and, aside from his medical ability, we had no faith in him whatever. He was not even good for a day's work, and the idea of his making such an astounding claim as having reached the Pole was so ludicrous that, after our laugh, we dropped the matter altogether.
On account of the world-wide controversyhis story has caused, I will quote from my diary the impressions noted in regard to him:
"August 17, 1909, Etah, North Greenland.
"Mr. Harry Whitney came aboard with the boatswain and the cabin-boy, who had been left here last fall on our way to Cape Sheridan. Murphy is the boatswain and Pritchard the boy, both from Newfoundland, and they look none the worse for wear, in spite of the long time they have spent here. Mr. Whitney is the gentleman who came up on theEriklast year, and at the last moment decided to spend the winter with the natives. He had a long talk with the Commander before we left for the north, and has had quite a lengthy session with him since. I learn that Dr. Cook came over from Ellesmere Land with his two boys, Etookahshoo and Ahpellah, and in a confidential conversation with Mr. Whitney made the statement that he had reached the North Pole. Professor MacMillan and I have talked to his two boys and have learned that there is no foundation in fact for such a statement, and the Captain and others of the expedition have questioned them, and if they were out on the ice of the Arctic Oceanit was only for a very short distance, not more than twenty or twenty-five miles. The boys are positive in this statement, and my own boys, Ootah and Ooqueah, have talked to them also, and get the same replies. It is a fact that they had a very hard time and were reduced to low limits, but they have not been any distance north, and the Commander and the rest of us are in the humor to regard Mr. Whitney as a person who has been hoodwinked. We know Dr. Cook very well and also his reputation, and we know that he was never good for a hard day's work; in fact he was not up to the average, and he is no hand at all in making the most of his resources. He probably has spun this yarn to Mr. Whitney and the boatswain to make himself look big to them.
"The Commander will not permit Mr. Whitney to bring any of the Dr. Cook effects aboard theRooseveltand they have been left in a cache on shore. Koolootingwah is here again, after his trip to North Star Bay with Dr. Cook, and tells an amusing story of his experience."
It is only from a sense of justice to Commander Peary and those who were with him that I have mentioned Dr. Cook. The outfitting of the hunting expedition of Mr. Bradley was well known to us. Captain Bartlett had directed it and had advised and arranged for the purchase of the SchoonerJohn R. Bradleyto carry the hunting party to the region where big game of the character Mr. Bradley wished to hunt could be found. We knew that Dr. Cook was accompanying Mr. Bradley, but we had no idea that the question of the discovery of the North Pole was to be involved.
I have reason to be grateful to Dr. Cook for favors received; I lived with his folks while I was suffering with my eyes, due to snow blindness, but I feel that all of the debts of gratitude have been liquidated by my silence in this controversy, and I will have nothing more to say in regard to him or to his claims.
ETAH TO NEW YORK—COMING OF MAIL AND REPORTERS—HOME!
At Etah we expected to meet the relief ship. Sixty tons of coal and a small quantity of provisions had been left there during the previous summer, to be used by us on our homeward voyage. This coal was loaded on board and the Esquimos who desired to remain at Etah were landed. Just at the time we were ready to sail a heavy storm of wind and snow blew up, and it was not until sixp. m.on the 20th that we left the harbor. Farewells had been said to the Esquimos, all that had been promised them for faithful services had been given to them, and we commenced the final stage of our journey home.
From Etah, August 20, the ship sailed along the coast, landing Esquimos at the different settlements, and on the 23rd of August at twoa. m., we met the SchoonerJeanie, ofSt. John, N. F., commanded by Samuel Bartlett. The schooner was supplied with provisions and coal for the relief of theRoosevelt, and was executing the plan of the Peary Arctic Club.
There was mail aboard her and we had our first tidings of home and friends in a twelve-month. From newspaper clippings I learned that the British Antarctic Expedition, commanded by Sir Ernest H. Shackleton, had reached within 111 miles of the South Pole.
The mail contained good news for all but one of us. Mr. Borup, in his bunk above the Professor's, read his letters, and in the course of his reading was heard to emit a deep sigh, then to utter an agonizing groan. Prof. MacMillan, thinking that Borup had received bad news indeed, endeavored to console him, and at the same time asked what was the bad news, feeling sure it could be nothing less than the death of Colonel Borup or some other close relative of his.
"What is the matter, George? Tell me."
"HARVARD BEAT YALE!"
TheRoosevelt, accompanied by her consort, sailed south to North Star Bay and whileentering the harbor ran ashore. Late in the afternoon, however, the rising tide floated her. While waiting for the tide, a party of six, I among the number, went ashore and visited the Danish Missionary settlement established there, the Esquimos acting as our interpreters, we being unable to speak Danish and the missionaries being unable to speak English. It was in North Star Bay that the coal and provisions from theJeaniewere transferred to theRoosevelt.
Aboard theJeanie, there was a young Esquimo man, Mene, who for the past twelve years had lived in New York City, but, overcome by a strong desire to live again in his own country, had been sent north by his friends in the States. He was almost destitute, having positively nothing in the way of an equipment to enable him to withstand the rigors of the country, and was no more fitted for the life he was to take up than any boy of eighteen or twenty would be, for he was but a little boy when he first left North Greenland. However, Commander Peary ordered that he be given a plentiful supply of furs to keep him warm, food, ammunition and loadingoutfit, traps and guns, but, I believe, he would have gladly returned with us, for it was a wistful farewell he made, and an Esquimo's farewell is usually very barren of pathos.
Mr. Whitney transferred his augmented equipment to theJeanie, intending to remain with her down the Labrador, for her Captain had agreed to use every effort to help Mr. Whitney secure at least one polar bear.
Cape York was reached on the morning of August 25, and from the two Esquimo families, living at the extreme point of the Cape, we obtained the mail which had been left there by Captain Adams of the Dundee Whaling FleetMorning Star. Our letters, although they bore no more recent a date than that of March 23, 1909, were eagerly read.
At Cape York we landed the last of the Esquimos. The decks were now cleared. The boats were securely lashed in their davits, and ninea. m., August 26, in a gale of wind, theRooseveltput out to sea, homeward-bound, but not yet out of danger, for the gale increased so considerably that theRooseveltwas forced to lay to under reefed foresail, in the lee of the middle pack, until the29th, when the storm subsided and the ship got under way again.
On September 4 the Labrador was sighted. Under full steam we passed the Farmyard, a group of small islands which lie off the coast.
We arrived at Turnavik at seven-thirtyp. m.Once again we saw signs of civilization. The men and women appeared in costumes of the Twentieth Century instead of the fur garments of the Esquimos. Here we loaded nineteen tons of coal. Here we feasted on fresh codfish, fresh vegetables, and other appetizing foods to which our palates had long been strangers.
You know the rest, for from Turnavik to Indian Harbor was only a few hours' sailing.
At Indian Harbor was located the wireless telegraph station from where Commander Peary flashed to the civilized world his laconic message, "Stars and Stripes nailed to the North Pole."
Within half an hour of our arrival, the British cutterFionaentered the harbor and the officers came aboard theRoosevelt. Thereafter for every hour there was continuous excitement and reception of visitors.
On September 13th the steamerDouglas H. Thomas, of Sydney, C. B., arrived, having on board two representatives of the Associated Press, accompanied by Mr. Rood, a representative ofHarper's Magazine.
The next day the cable-boatTyrianarrived, with seventeen newspaper reporters, five photographers, and one stenographer. TheTyriananchored outside the harbor and in five life-boats the party was brought aboard theRoosevelt. As they rowed they cheered, and when they sighted Commander Peary three ringing cheers and a tiger were given. The newspaper men requested an interview with the Commander. He granted their request, at the same time suggesting that they accompany him ashore to a fish-loft at the end of the pier, where there would be more room than aboard the ship. Accompanied by the members of the expedition, the Commander and the reporters left the ship. Arriving at the loft Commander Peary sat on some fishnets at the rear end of the loft, some of the reporters sat on barrels and nets, others squatted on the floor. They formed a semi-circle around him and eagerly listened to the first telling of his stirring story.
Before leaving Battle Harbor, we received a visit from the great missionary, Dr. Grenfell, the effect of whose presence was almost like a benediction.
On the morning of the 18th we left Battle Harbor accompanied by the tugDouglas H. Thomas, amidst the salutes of the many vessels and boats in the harbor and the cannon on the hill.
Through the Straits of Belle Isle we steamed, with a fair wind and a choppy sea. In the meantime I was busily engaged in making a strip to sew upon a large American flag. This was a broad white bar which was to extend from the upper right to the lower left corner of the flag, with the words "North Pole" sewed on it.
About sixa. m.on the 21st, a large white, steam-yacht was seen approaching, flying an American flag from her foremast and the English flag from the mizzenmast. We were close enough to her to distinguish Mrs. Peary and the children on board. A boat was quickly lowered from the yacht and thePeary family was soon united aboard theRoosevelt.
All kinds of sailing craft now met theRooseveltand by them she was escorted into the harbor of Sydney, C. B. Whistles were blown, thousands of people lined the shores of the harbor, cheering enthusiastically and waving flags, and as theRooseveltwas moored alongside the pier, a delegation of school-girls met the Commander, made an address, and presented him with a magnificent bouquet. The streets were gorgeously decorated and a holiday had been declared. A ripe, royal welcome was accorded theRooseveltand the members of the expedition. Visitors boarded the ship and looted successfully for souvenirs.
It was at Sydney that the expedition commenced to disband. Commander Peary and his family returned to the United States via railroad-train.
TheRooseveltleft Sydney on September 22 for New York City. A stop was made at Eagle Island, in Casco Bay, off the coast of Maine, where is located the summer home of Commander Peary, and here we landed most of his paraphernalia, some sledges and dogs.From Eagle Island we steamed direct to Sandy Hook, reaching there at noon on October 2. The next day theRoosevelttook her place with the replica of those two historic ships, theHalf Moonand theClermont, in the lead of the great naval parade.
And now my story is ended; it is a tale that is told. "Now is Othello's occupation gone."
I long to see them all again! the brave, cheery companions of the trail of the North. I long to see again the lithe figure of my Commander! and to hear again his clear, ringing voice urging and encouraging me onward, with his "Well done, my boy." I want to be with the party when they reach the untrod shores of Crocker Land; I yearn to be with those who reach the South Pole, the lure of the Arctic is tugging at my heart, to me the trail is calling!
"The Old Trail!The Trail that is always New!"
Notes on the Esquimos
The origin of the Esquimos is not known to a certainty. In color they are brown, their hair is heavy, straight, coarse, and black. In appearance they are short, fat, and well-developed; and they bear a strong resemblance to the Mongolian race.
Among the men of this tribe, quarrels and fights very rarely occur; but it is a very noticeable fact that while the men of the tribe do not make war on each other, the man of the family will, at the least provocation on the part of his better-half, without hesitation apply brute force to show his authority.
The tribe of these, the North Greenland Esquimos, numbers two hundred and eighteen.
Great interest was shown by the men when working implements, such as we used on board ship, were shown them. Eagerly they listened while the uses of many of these toolswere explained to them. The women also showed great interest in any article that was foreign to them. They have a special liking for fancy beads of the smaller variety.
The Esquimos show a great capacity for imitation. They have also a marked sense of humor.
An Esquimo's sense of imitation is so keen that it is only necessary for him to observe a sledge-maker at work but once, when the same type of sledge will be reproduced in a very short time. On my last trip north, I noticed that the shirts worn by the Esquimos were similar in style and cut to our own. In 1906, the style had been entirely different.
The Esquimos show no desire to acquire the English language. With the exception of Kudlooktoo and Inighito, none of the tribe could speak English intelligently. The Esquimos' vocabulary is a complication of prefixes and suffixes, and many words in his language are very hard to pronounce.
Thetupiks(tents) are made of sealskin, and are used in summer. The igloos are built of snow, and are used in winter. A few igloos built of bowlders can be seen. Theworkmanship of this latter type of igloos is necessarily crude, for the bowlders are used in the rough state. On entering thetuscoonah(entrance), a bed-platform of stones five feet long, and six feet wide, confronts one. On each side of this platform are seen smaller platforms, each holding akoodlah(fire-pot).
Thiskoodlahis made of a stone so soft that before it comes in contact with fire it can easily be cut with a knife. The name given by the Esquimos to it isokeyoah. Cooking utensils are first formed in the desired shape, then heat is applied, as a result of which the stone quickly hardens. The method of cooking as employed by the Esquimos is to suspend thekooleesoo(cooking-pot) over thekoodlah(fire-pot). Thekoodlahis the only means by which light can be secured in an Esquimo igloo. As fuel, the blubber of the narwhal is used.
The clothing of the male Esquimo consists of akooletah(deerskin coat with hood attached),nanookes(foxskin trousers) andkamiks(sealskin boots); that of the female Esquimo, akopetah(foxskin coat with hoodattached),nanookes(foxskin trousers) and hip lengthkamiks(sealskin boots). The shirts of the male and female Esquimo are made from the skin of the auks, and one hundred and fifty of these little birds are used in the manufacture of one shirt.
The largest Esquimo family known among the North Greenland tribe, numbers six; as a rule, an Esquimo family rarely outnumbers three. An Esquimo family is not stationary. Rarely does a family remain in one place longer than one season, which is nine months. The principal reason for this constant moving is the scarcity of game; for after a season of hunting in one place, game becomes very scarce; and there is no other alternative but for the family to move on. Transportation is by means of sledges drawn by a team of dogs. Alcoholic drinks are not known among this tribe; but, of late, tobacco is extensively used. Previous to 1902, before the arrival of the Danes, tobacco was an unknown quantity.
The cleanliness of the Esquimos leaves room for much improvement.
With reference to their morals, strictlyspeaking they are markedly lax. The wife of an Esquimo is held in no higher esteem than are the goods and chattels of the household. She may at any time be loaned, borrowed, sold, or exchanged. They have no marriage ceremony.
The amusements of the Esquimos are few. Tests of strength and endurance occur between the men of the tribe; and visits are paid to the various settlements, during the long winter nights; and songs and choruses are sung, accompanied by a kind of tambourine which is made from the bladder of a walrus or seal, and stretched across the antlers of a reindeer.
The Esquimos are a very superstitious people. In the event of a fatal illness, the victim, just before death, is removed to a place outside the igloo, for should death enter the igloo that dwelling would instantly be destroyed. If the deceased be a man, he is rolled up in a sealskin, and strips of rawhide are lashed around the body to keep the skin intact. He is then carried to his last resting place. A low stone structure is built around the body to protect it from the foxes. His sledge, containing all his belongings, is placed close beside this structure, and his dogs harnessed to his sledge are strangled, and stretched their full length, with their forepaws extended. In the event of the deceased being a woman, her cooking utensils are placed beside her, and should she be the mother of a very young infant, its life is taken. In the case of a widower, the bereaved Esquimo remains in the igloo for three days, during which time a new suit of wearing apparel is made, and worn by him, and all clothing made by the deceased, is, by him, destroyed. His term of mourning now being ended, the Esquimo, without more ado, takes unto himself a new wife. Members of the tribe who have the same name as the deceased have to change that name until the arrival of a new-born babe, to whom the name is given, whereby the ban is removed. The Esquimos have no decided form of religion. When questioned as to where the soul of the good Esquimo will go, they reply by pointing upward; and by pointing downward, the question is answered as to the final dwelling-place of the wicked.
The main cause of death amongst the Esquimos is from a disease the symptoms of which are a cough, nausea, and fever, which disease quickly causes death.
It is true that the Esquimos are of little value to the commercial world, due probably to their isolated position; but these same unlearned and uncivilized people have rendered valuable assistance in the discovery of the North Pole.
List of Smith Sound Esquimos
(Males marked by an asterisk)
Ac-com-o-ding´-wah *Ah-ding´-ah-looAh-dul-ah-ko-tee´-ah *Ah-dul-ah-ko-tee´-ah *Ah-ga-tah´Ah-go´-tah *Ah-kah-gee´-ah-howA-ka-ting´-wahA-ka-ting´-wahAh-li-kah-sing´-wahAh-li-kah-sing´-wahAh-li-kah-sing´-wahAh´-mahAh-mame´-eeAh-mo-ned´-dyAh-mung´-wahAh-nad´-dooAh-nah´-weAh-nah-wing´-wahAhng-een´-yah *Ahng-een´-yahAhng´-ing-nahAhng-ma-lok´-to *Ahng-nah´-niaAhng-no-ding´-wahAhng-o-do-blah´-o *Ahng-o-di-gip´-soAhng´-od-loo *Ah-ni-ghi´-toAh-ni-ghi´-toAh-ning´-wahAh-ning´-wahAh-now´-kah *Ah-now´-kah *Ah´-pel-lah *Ah´-pel-lah *Ah-pu-ding´-wah *Ah-say´-oo *Ah´-te-tahAh´-te-tahAh-took-sung´-wahAh-tung´-ee-nahAh-tung´-ee-nahAh-wa-ting´-wah *Ah-wa-tok´-suah *Ah-wee´-ahAh-wee´-ahAh-wee-ah-good´-looAh-wee-aung-o´-nahAh-wee´-i-ah *Ah-we-ging´-wah *Ah-we-shung´-wah *Ah-wok-tun´-ee-ahAk-pood-ah-shah´-o *Ak-pood-ah-shah´-o *Ak-pood´-ee-ark *Ak-pood-e-uk´-eeA-le´-tah *Al´-nay-ahAl-nay-du´-ahAr-ke´-o *Ar-ke´-o *Ar-ke´-o *E-gee´-ah *E-ging´-wah *E-ging´-wah *E-lay-ting´-wahE-ling´-wah *E-meen´-yah *E-she-a´-tooE-shing´-wahE-tood´-loo *E-took´-ah-shoo *E-took´-ah-shoo *E-too-shok´-swahE´-vah-looE´-vah-looE´-weI-ah-ping´-wah *I-ah-ping´-wah *Ig-lood-ee-ark´-swee *Ihr´-lee *Ik´-wah *Ik-kile-e-oo´-shahIl-kah-lin´-ahIl-kli-ah´ *Il-kli-ah´ *In-ad-lee´-ahIn-ad-lee´-ahIn´-ah-looIn-i-ghi´-to *In-i-ghi´-to *In-i-ghi´-to *In-noo´-i-tah *In-noo-tah´In-noo-tah´In-u-ah-pud´-o *In-u-ah´-oIn-yah-lung´-wahI-on´-ahI-o-wit´-ty *Jacok-su´-nah *Kah´-dah *Kah-ko-tee´-ahKah-ko-tee´-ah *Kah-shad´-dooKah-shoo´-be-doo *Kai-o-ang´-wah *Kai-o-ang´-wah *Kai´-oh *Kai-o-look´-to *Kai-o´-tah *Kai-we-ark´-shah *Kai-we-ing´-wah *Kai´-we-kah *Kai-ung´-wah *Kang-nah´ *Kes-shoo´ *Ke-shung´-wah *Klay´-ooKlay´-ooKlay-ung´-wahKlip-e-sok´-swah *Kood´-ee-puckKood-loo-tin´-ah *Kood-loo-tin´-ah * (orKoolatoonah)Koo-e-tig´-e-to *Koo´-leeKool-oo-ting´-wah *Koo-u-pee´Koo-u-pee´Kud´-ah-shah *Kud´-lah *Kud´-lah *Kud-lun´-ah *Kud-look´-too *Ky-u-tah *Ma-gip´-sooMah-so´-nah *Mah-so´-nah *Mah-so´-nah *Mah-so´-nah *Mark-sing´-wah *Mee´-tik *Mee´-tik *Me-gip´-sooMek´-kahMe´-ne *Merk-to-shah´ *Mok´-sah *Mok-sang´-wahMok-sang´-wahMon´-nieMon´-nieMicky´-shooMy´-ah *My-o´-tah *Nay-dee-ing´-wahNel-lee´-kahNel-lee-ka-tee´-ahNet´-tooNet´-tooNew-e-king´-wahNew-e-king´-wahNew-e-king´-wahNew-hate´-e-lah´-o *New-hate´-e-lah´-o *New-kah-ping´-wah *Nip-sang´-wah *Now-o-yat´-loeNup´-sahOg´-we *Oo-ah-oun´ *Oo-bloo´-yah *Oo-bloo´-yah *Oo´-mah *Oo-que´-ah *Oo´-tah*Oo-tun´-iahOo-we´-ah-oop *Oo-we-she-a´-tooPan´-ik-pah *Pee-ah-wah´-to *Poo-ad-loo´-nah*Poo-ad-loo´-nah *Poo-ad-loo´-nah *Poob´-lah *Poob´-lah *Pood-lung´-wahPoo´-tooSag´-wahSat´-too *Seeg´-loo *Seen-o-ung´-wahSee-o-dee-kah´-toShoo-e-king´-wahSim´-e-ahSin-ah´-ewSip´-sooSow´-nahSuk´-kun *Sul-ming´-wah *Tah´-tah-rah *Tah´-wah-nah *Taw-ching´-wah *Taw-ching´-wah *Teddy-ling´-wah *Toi-tee´-ah *Took-e-ming´-wahToo´-koom-ahTu-bing´-wahTung-wing´-wahTung´-we *Ung´-ah *We´-arkWe-shark´-oup-si *
Two female babies not named
Male122Female96——Total218
Transcriber's NotesObvious punctuation errors repaired.One instance of each of the following was retained:fiendlike/fiend-likeforepaws/fore-pawsreadjusting/re-adjustingThe remaining corrections made are indicated by dotted lines under the corrections. Scroll the mouse over the word and the original text willappear.
Obvious punctuation errors repaired.
One instance of each of the following was retained:
fiendlike/fiend-likeforepaws/fore-pawsreadjusting/re-adjusting
The remaining corrections made are indicated by dotted lines under the corrections. Scroll the mouse over the word and the original text willappear.