The Project Gutenberg eBook ofA Tramp AbroadThis ebook is for the use of anyone anywhere in the United States and most other parts of the world at no cost and with almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included with this ebook or online atwww.gutenberg.org. If you are not located in the United States, you will have to check the laws of the country where you are located before using this eBook.Title: A Tramp AbroadAuthor: Mark TwainRelease date: June 19, 2004 [eBook #119]Most recently updated: October 29, 2024Language: EnglishCredits: Produced by David Widger*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK A TRAMP ABROAD ***
This ebook is for the use of anyone anywhere in the United States and most other parts of the world at no cost and with almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included with this ebook or online atwww.gutenberg.org. If you are not located in the United States, you will have to check the laws of the country where you are located before using this eBook.
Title: A Tramp AbroadAuthor: Mark TwainRelease date: June 19, 2004 [eBook #119]Most recently updated: October 29, 2024Language: EnglishCredits: Produced by David Widger
Title: A Tramp Abroad
Author: Mark Twain
Author: Mark Twain
Release date: June 19, 2004 [eBook #119]Most recently updated: October 29, 2024
Language: English
Credits: Produced by David Widger
*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK A TRAMP ABROAD ***
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1.PORTRAIT OF THE AUTHOR2.TITIAN’S MOSES3.THE AUTHOR’S MEMORIES4.THE BLACK KNIGHT5.OPENING HIS VIZIER6.THE ENRAGED EMPEROR7.THE PORTIER8.ONE OF THOSE BOYS9.SCHLOSS HOTEL10.IN MY CAGE11.HEIDELBERG CASTLE12.HEIDELBERG CASTLE, RIVER FRONTAGE13.THE RETREAT14.JIM BAKER15."A BLUE FLUSH ABOUT IT"16.COULD NOT SEE IT17.THE BEER KING18.THE LECTURER’S AUDIENCE19.INDUSTRIOUS STUDENTS20.IDLE STUDENT21.COMPANIONABLE INTERCOURSE22.AN IMPOSING SPECTACLE23.AN ADVERTISEMENT24."UNDERSTANDS HIS BUSINESS"25.THE OLD SURGEON26.THE FIRST WOUND27.THE CASTLE COURT28.WOUNDED29.FAVORITE STREET COSTUME30.INEFFACEABLE SCARS31.PIECE OF SWORD32.FRENCH CALM33.THE CHALLENGE ACCEPTED34.A SEARCH35.HE SWOONED PONDEROUSLY36.I ROLLED HIM OVER37.THE ONE I HIRED36.THE MARCH TO THE FIELD39.THE POST OF DANGER40.THE RECONCILIATION41.AN OBJECT OF ADMIRATION42.WAGNER43.RAGING44.ROARING45.SHRIEKING46.A CUSTOMARY THING47.ONE OF THE “REST"48.A CONTRIBUTION BOX49.CONSPICUOUS50.TAIL PIECE51.ONLY A SHRIEK52."HE ONLY CRY"53.LATE COMERS CARED FOR54.EVIDENTLY DREAMING55."TURN ON MORE RAIN"56.HARRIS ATTENDING THE OPERA57.PAINTING MY GREAT PICTURE58.OUR START59.AN UNKNOWN COSTUME60.THE TOWER61.SLOW BUT SURE62.THE ROBBER CHIEF63.AN HONEST MAN64.THE TOWN BY NIGHT65.GENERATIONS OF BAREFEET66.OUR BEDROOM67.PRACTICING68.PAWING AROUND69.A NIGHT’S WORK70.LEAVING HEILBRONN71.THE CAPTAIN72.WAITING FOR THE TRAIN73.A DEEP AND TRANQUIL ECSTACY74."WHICH ANSWERED JUST AS WELL"75.LIFE ON A RAFT76.LADY GERTRUDE77.MOUTH OF THE CAVERN78.A FATAL MISTAKE79.TAIL PIECE80.RAFTING ON THE NECKAR81.THE LORELEI82.THE LOVER’s FATE84.THE UNKNOWN KNIGHT85.THE EMBRACE86.PERILOUS POSTTION87.THE RAFT IN A STORM88.ALL SAFE ON SHORE89."IT WAS THE CAT"90.TAILPIECE91.BREAKFAST IN THE GARDEN16292.EASILY UNDERSTOOD93.EXPERIMENTING THROUGH HARRIS94.AT THE BALL ROOM DOOR95.THE TOWN OF DILSBERG96.OUR ADVANCE ON DILSBERG97.INSIDE THE TOWN95.THE OLD WELL99.SEND HITHER THE LORD ULRICH100.LEAD ME TO HER GRAVE102.AN EXCELLENT PILOT, ONCE103.SCATTERATION104.THE RIVER BATH101.ETRUSCAN TEAR JUG106.HENRI II. PLATEl07.OLD BLUE CHINA108.A REAL ANTIQUE109.BRIC-A-BRAC SHOP110."PUT IT THERE"111.THE PARSON CAPTURED112.TAIL PIECE113.A COMPREHENSIVE YAWN114.TESTING THE COIN115.BEAUTY AT THE BATH116.IN THE BATH117.JERSEY INDIANS118.NOT PARTICULARLY SOCIABLE119.BLACK FOREST GRANDEE120.THE GRANDEE’S DAUGHTER121.RICH OLD HUSS122.GRETCHEN123.PAUL HOCH124.HANS SCHMIDT125.ELECTING A NEW MEMBER126.OVERCOMING OBSTACLES127.FRIENDS128.PROSPECTING129.TAIL PIECE130.A GENERAL HOWL131.SEEKING A SITUATION132.STANDING GUARD133.RESULT OF A JOKE134.DESCENDING A FARM155.A GERMAN SABBATH136.AN OBJECT OF SYMPATHY137.A NON-CLASSICAL STYLE138.THE TRADITIONAL CHAMOIS139.HUNTING CHAMOIS THE TRUE WAY140.CHAMOIS HUNTER AS REPORTED141.MARKING ALPENSTOCKS142.IS SHE EIGHTEEN OR TWENTY143.I KNEW I WASN’T MISTAKEN144.HARRIS ASTONISHED145.TAIL PIECE146.THE LION OF LUCERNE147.HE LIKED CLOCKS148."I WILL TELL YOU"149.COULDN’T WAIT150.DIDN’T CARE FOR STYLE151.A PAIR BETTER THAN FOUR152.TWO WASN’T NECESSARY153.JUST THE TRICK154.GOING TO MAKE THEM STARE155.NOT THROWN AWAY156.WHAT THE DOCTOR RECOMMENDED157.WANTED TO FEEL SAFE158.PREFERRED TO TRAMP ON FOOT159.DERN A DOG, ANYWAY160.TAIL PIECE161.THE GLACIER GARDEN162.LAKE AND MOUNTAINS (MONT PILATUS)163.MOUNTAIN PATHS164."YOU’RE AN AMERICAN—SO AM I"165.ENTERPRISE166.THE CONSTANT SEARCHER167.THE MOUNTAIN BOY168.THE ENGLISHMAN169.THE JODLER170.ANOTHER VOCALIST171.THE FELSENTHOR172.A VIEW FROM THE STATION173.LOST IN THE MIST174.THE RIGI-KULM HOTEL175.WHAT AWAKENED US176.A SUMMIT SUNRISE177.TAIL PIECE178.EXCEEDINGLY COMFORTABLE179.THE SUNRISE180.THE RIGI-KULM181.AN OPTICAL ILLUSION182.TAIL PIECE183.RAILWAY DOWN THE MOUNTAIN184.SOURCE OF THE RHONE185.A GLACIER TABLE186.GLACIER OF GRINDELWALD187.DAWN ON THE MOUNTAINS188.TAIL PIECE189.NEW AND OLD STYLE190.ST NICHOLAS, AS A HERMIT191.A LANDSLIDE192.GOLDAU VALLEY BEFORE AND AFTER THE LANDSLIDE193.THE WAY THEY DO IT194.OUR GALLANT DRIVER195.A MOUNTAIN PASS196."I’M OFUL DRY"197.IT’S THE FASHION198.WHAT WE EXPECTED199.WE MISSED THE SCENERY200.THE TOURISTS201.THE YOUNG BRIDE202."IT WAS A FAMOUS VICTORY203.PROMENADE IN INTERLAKEN204.THE JUNGFRAU BY M.T.205.STREET IN INTERLAKEN206.WITHOUT A COURIER207.TRAVELING WITH A COURIER208.TAIL PIECE209.GRAPE AND WHEY PATIENTS210.SOCIABLE DRIVERS211.A MOUNTAIN CASCADE212.THE GASTERNTHAL213.EXHILARATING SPORT214.FALLS215.WHAT MIGHT BE216.AN ALPINE BOUQUET217.THE END OF THE WORLD218.THE FORGET-ME-NOT219.A NEEDLE OF ICE220.CLIMBING THE MOUNTAIN221.SNOW CREVASSES222.CUTTING STEPS223.THE GUIDE224.VIEW FROM THE CLIFF225.GEMMI PASS AND LAKE DAUBENSEE226.ALMOST A TRAGEDY227.THE ALPINE LITTER228.SOCIAL BATHERS229.DEATH OF COUNTESS HERLINCOURT230.THEY’VE GOT IT ALL231.MODEL FOR AN EMPRESS232.BATH HOUSES AT LEUKE233.THE BATHERS AT LEUKE234.RATTIER MIXED UP235.TAIL PIECE236.A SUNDAY MORNING’S DEMON237.JUST SAVED238.SCENE IN VALLEY OF ZERMATT239.ARRIVAL AT ZERMATT240.FITTED OUT241.A FEARFUL FALL242.TAIL PIECE243.ALL READY244.THE MARCH245.THE CARAVAN246.THE HOOK247.THE DISABLED CHAPLAIN248.TRYING EXPERIMENTS249.SAVED! SAVED!250.TWENTY MINUTES WORK251.THE BLACK RAM252.THE MIRACLE253.THE NEW GUIDE251.SCIENTIFIC RESEARCHES255.MOUNTAIN CHALET256.THE GRANDSON257.OCCASIONLY MET WITH258.SUMMIT OF THE GORNER GRAT259.CHIEFS OF THE ADVANCE GUARD260.MY PICTURE OF THE MATTERHORN261.EVERYBODY HAD AN EXCUSE262.SPRUNG A LEAK263.A SCIENTIFIC QUESTION264.A TERMINAL MORAINE265.FRONT OF GLACIER266.AN OLD MORAINE267.GLACIER OF ZERMATT WITH LATERAL MORAINE269.UNEXPECTED MEETING OF FRIENDS269.VILLAGE OF CHAMONIX270.THE MATTERHORN271.ON THE SUMMIT272.ACCIDENT ON THE MATTERHORN (1865)273.ROPED TOGETHER274.STORAGE OF ANCESTORS275.FALLING OUT OF HIS FARM276.CHILD LIFE IN SWITZERLAND277.A SUNDAY PLAY278.THE COMBINATION279.CHILLON280.THE TETE NOIR281.MONT BLANC’S NEIGHBORS282.AN EXQUISITE THING283.A WILD RIDE284.SWISS PEASANT GIRL285.STREET IN CHAMONIX286.THE PROUD GERMAN287.THE INDIGNANT TOURIST288.MUSIC OF SWITZERLAND289.ONLY A MISTAKE290.A BROAD VIEW291.PREPARING TO START292.ASCENT OF MONT BLANC293."WE ALL RAISED A TREMENDOUS SHOUT"294.THE GRANDE MULETS295.CABIN ON THE GRANDE MULETS296.KEEPING WARM297.TAIL PIECE298.TAKE IT EASY299.THE MER DE GLACE (MONT BLANC)300.TAKING TOLL301.A DESCENDING TOURIST302.LEAVING BY DILIGENCE303.THE SATISFIED ENGLISHMAN301.HIGH PRESSURE305.NO APOLOGY307.A LIVELY STREET308.HAVING HER FULL RIGHTS309.HOW SHE FOOLED US310."YOU’LL TAKE THAT OR NONE"311.ROBBING A BEGGAR312.DISHONEST ITALY313.STOCK IN TRADE314.STYLE315.SPECIMENS FROM OLD MASTERS316.AN OLD MASTER317.THE LION OF ST MARK318.OH TO BE AT RRST!319.THE WORLD’S MASTERPIECE320.TAIL PIECE321.AESTHETIC TASTES322.A PRIVATE FAMILY BREAKFAST323.EUROPEAN CARVING323.A TWENTY-FOUR HOUR FIGHT325.GREAT HEIDELBERG TUN326.BISMARCK IN PRISON327.TAIL PIECE600328.A COMPLETE WORD
CHAPTER IA Tramp over Europe—On the Holsatia—Hamburg—Frankfort-on-the-Main—How it Won its Name—A Lesson in Political Economy—Neatness in Dress—Rhine Legends—“The Knave of Bergen” The Famous Ball—The Strange Knight—Dancing with the Queen—Removal of the Masks—The Disclosure—Wrath of the Emperor—The EndingCHAPTER IIAt Heidelberg—Great Stir at a Hotel—The Portier—Arrival of the Empress—The Schloss Hotel—Location of Heidelberg—The River Neckar—New Feature in a Hotel—Heidelberg Castle—View from the Hotel—A Tramp in the Woods—Meeting a Raven—Can Ravens Talk?—Laughed at and Vanquished—Language of Animals—Jim Baker—Blue-JaysCHAPTER IIIBaker’s Blue-Jay Yarn—Jay Language—The Cabin—“Hello, I reckon I’ve struck something”—A Knot Hole—Attempt to fill it—A Ton of Acorns—Friends Called In—A Great Mystery—More Jays called A Blue Flush—A Discovery—A Rich Joke—One that Couldn’t See ItCHAPTER IVStudent Life—The Five Corps—The Beet King—A Free Life—Attending Lectures—An Immense Audience—Industrious Students—Politeness of the Students—Intercourse with the Professors Scenes at the Castle Garden—Abundance of Dogs—Symbol of Blighted Love—How the Ladies AdvertiseCHAPTER VThe Students’ Dueling Ground—The Dueling Room—The Sword Grinder—Frequency of the Duels—The Duelists—Protection against Injury—The Surgeon—Arrangements for the Duels—The First Duel—The First Wound—A Drawn Battle—The Second Duel—Cutting and Slashing—Interference of the SurgeonCHAPTER VIThe Third Duel—A Sickening Spectacle—Dinner between Fights—The Last Duel—Fighting in Earnest—Faces and Heads Mutilated—Great Nerve of the Duelists—Fatal Results not Infrequent—The World’s View of these FightsCHAPTER VIICorps—laws and Usages—Volunteering to Fight—Coolness of the Wounded—Wounds Honorable—Newly bandaged Students around Heidelberg—Scarred Faces Abundant—A Badge of Honor—Prince Bismark as a Duelist—Statistics—Constant Sword Practice—Color of the Corps—Corps EtiquetteCHAPTER VIIIThe Great French Duel—Mistaken Notions—Outbreak in the French Assembly—Calmness of M Gambetta—I Volunteer as Second—Drawing up a Will—The Challenge and its Acceptance—Difficulty in Selection of Weapons—Deciding on Distance—M. Gambetta’s Firmness—Arranging Details—Hiring Hearses—How it was Kept from the Press—March to the Field—The Post of Danger—The Duel—The Result—General Rejoicings—The only One Hurt—A Firm ResolutionCHAPTER IXAt the Theatre—German Ideal—At the Opera—The Orchestra—Howlings and Wailings—A Curious Play—One Season of Rest—The Wedding Chorus—Germans fond of the Opera—Funerals Needed —A Private Party—What I Overheard—A Gentle Girl—A Contribution—box—Unpleasantly ConspicuousCHAPTER XFour Hours with Wagner—A Wonderful Singer, Once—” Only a Shriek”—An Ancient Vocalist—“He Only Cry”—Emotional Germans—A Wise Custom—Late Comers Rebuked—Heard to the Last—No Interruptions Allowed—A Royal Audience—An Eccentric King—Real Rain and More of It—Immense Success—“Encore! Encore!”—Magnanimity of the KingCHAPTER XILessons in Art—My Great Picture of Heidelberg Castle—Its Effect in the Exhibition—Mistaken for a Turner—A Studio—Waiting for Orders—A Tramp Decided On—The Start for Heilbronn—Our Walking Dress—“Pleasant march to you”—We Take the Rail—German People on Board—Not Understood—Speak only German and English—Wimpfen—A Funny Tower—Dinner in the Garden—Vigorous Tramping—Ride in a Peasant’s Cart—A Famous RoomCHAPTER XIIThe Rathhaus—An Old Robber Knight, Gotz Von Berlichingen—His Famous Deeds—The Square Tower—A Curious old Church—A Gay Turn—out—A Legend—The Wives’ Treasures—A Model Waiter—A Miracle Performed—An Old Town—The Worn StonesCHAPTER XIIIEarly to Bed—Lonesome—Nervous Excitement—The Room We Occupied—Disturbed by a Mouse—Grow Desperate—The Old Remedy—A Shoe Thrown—Result—Hopelessly Awake—An Attempt to Dress—A Cruise in the Dark—Crawling on the Floor—A General Smash-up—Forty-seven Miles’ TravelCHAPTER XIVA Famous Turn—out—Raftsmen on the Neckar—The Log Rafts—The Neckar—A Sudden Idea—To Heidelberg on a Raft—Chartering a Raft—Gloomy Feelings and Conversation—Delicious Journeying—View of the Banks—Compared with RailroadingCHAPTER XVDown the River—German Women’s Duties—Bathing as We Went—A Handsome Picture: Girls in the Willows—We Sight a Tug—Steamers on the Neckar—Dinner on Board—Legend “Cave of the Spectre “—Lady Gertrude the Heiress—The Crusader—The Lady in the Cave—A TragedyCHAPTER XVIAn Ancient Legend of the Rhine—“The Lorelei”—Count Hermann—Falling in Love—A Sight of the Enchantress—Sad Effect on Count Hermann—An Evening visit—A Sad Mistake—Count Hermann Drowned—The Song and Music—Different Trans lations—Curiosities in TitlesCHAPTER XVIIAnother Legend—The Unconquered Monster—The Unknown Knight —His Queer Shaped Knapsack—The Knight Pitied and Advised—He Attacks the Monster—Victory for the Fire Extinguisher—The Knight rewarded—His Strange Request——Spectacles Made Popular—Danger to the Raft—Blasting Rocks—An Inglorious Death in View—Escaped—A Storm Overtakes us—GreatDanger—Man Overboard—Breakers Ahead—Springing a Leak—Ashore Safe—A General Embracing—A Tramp in the Dark—The Naturalist Tavern—A Night’s Troubles—“It is the Cat"CHAPTER XVIIIBreakfast in a Garden—The Old Raven—Castle of Hirschhorn—Attempt to Hire a Boat—High Dutch—What You Can Find out by Enquiring—What I Found out about the Students—A good German Custom—Harris Practices It—AnEmbarrassing Position—A Nice Party—At a Ball—Stopped at the Door—Assistance at Hand and Rendered—Worthy to be an EmpressCHAPTER XIXArrive at Neckarsteinach—Castle of Dilsberg—A Walled Town—On a Hill—Exclusiveness of the People—A Queer Old Place—An Ancient Well—An Outlet Proved—Legend of Dilsberg Castle—The Haunted Chamber—The Betrothed’s request—The Knight’s Slumbers and Awakening—Horror of the Lover—The Wicked Jest—The Lover a Maniac—Under the Linden—Turning Pilot—Accident to the Raft—Fearful DisasterCHAPTER XXGood News—“Slow Freight”—Keramics—My Collection of Bric-a-brac—My Tear Jug—Henri II. Plate—Specimen of Blue China—Indifference to the Laugh of the World—I Discover an Antique En-route to Baden—Baden—Meeting an Old Acquaintance—A young American—Embryo Horse Doctor—An American, Sure—A Minister CapturedCHAPTER XXIBaden—Baden—Energetic Girls—A Comprehensive Yawn—A Beggar’s Trick—Cool Impudence—The Bath Woman—Insolence of Shop Keepers—Taking a Bath—Early and Late Hours—Popular Belief Regarding Indians—An Old Cemetery—A Pious Hag—Curious Table CompanionsCHAPTER XXIIThe Black Forest—A Grandee and his Family—The Wealthy Nabob—A New Standard of Wealth—Skeleton for a New Novel—Trying Situation—The Common Council—Choosing a New Member Studying Natural History—The Ant a Fraud—Eccentricities of the Ant—His Deceit and Ignorance—A German Dish—Boiled OrangesCHAPTER XXIIIOff for a Day’s Tramp—Tramping and Talking—Story Telling—Dentistry in Camp—Nicodemus Dodge—Seeking a Situation—A Butt for Jokes—Jimmy Finn’s Skeleton—Descending a Farm—Unexpected NotorietyCHAPTER XXIVSunday on the Continent—A Day of Rest—An Incident at Church—An Object of Sympathy—Royalty at Church—Public Grounds Concert—Power and Grades of Music—Hiring a CourierCHAPTER XXVLucerne—Beauty of its Lake—The Wild Chamois—A Great Error Exposed—Methods of Hunting the Chamois—Beauties of Lucerne—The Alpenstock—Marking Alpenstocks—Guessing at Nationalities—An American Party—An Unexpected Acquaintance—Getting Mixed Up—Following Blind Trails—A Happy Half—hour—Defeat and RevengeCHAPTER XXVICommerce of Lucerne—Benefits of Martyrdom—A Bit of History—The Home of Cuckoo Clocks—A Satisfactory Revenge—The Alan Who Put Up at Gadsby’s—A Forgotten Story—Wanted to be Postmaster—A Tennessean at Washington—He Concluded to Stay A While—Application of the StoryCHAPTER XXVIIThe Glacier Garden—Excursion on the Lake—Life on the Mountains—A Specimen Tourist—“Where’re you From?”—An Advertising Dodge—A Righteous Verdict—The Guide-book Student—I Believe that’s AllCHAPTER XXVIIIThe Rigi-Kulm—Its Ascent—Stripping for Business—A Mountain Lad—An English Tourist—Railroad up the Mountain—Villages and Mountain—The Jodlers—About Ice Water—The Felsenthor—Too Late—Lost in the Fog—The Rigi-Kulm Hotel—The Alpine Horn—Sunrise at NightCHAPTER XXIXEverything Convenient—Looking for a Western Sunrise—Mutual Recrimination—View from the Summit—Down the Mountain—Railroading—Confidence Wanted and AcquiredCHAPTER XXXA Trip by Proxy—A Visit to the Furka Regions—Deadman’s Lake—Source of the Rhone—Glacier Tables—Storm in the Mountains—At Grindelwald—Dawn on the Mountains—An Explanation Required—Dead Language—Criticism of Harris’s ReportCHAPTER XXXIPreparations for a Tramp—From Lucerne to Interlaken—The Brunig Pass—Modern and Ancient Chalets—Death of Pontius Pilate—Hermit Home of St Nicholas—Landslides—Children Selling Refreshments—How they Harness a Horse—A Great Man—Honors to a Hero—A Thirsty Bride—For Better or Worse—German Fashions—Anticipations—Solid Comfort—An Unsatisfactory \ Awakening—What we had Lost—Our SurroundingsCHAPTER XXXIIThe Jungfrau Hotel—A Whiskered Waitress—An Arkansas Bride—Perfection in Discord—A Famous Victory—A Look from a Window—About the JungfrauCHAPTER XXXIIIThe Giesbach Falls—The Spirit of the Alps—Why People Visit Them—Whey and Grapes as Medicines—The Kursaal—A Formidable Undertaking—From Interlaken to Zermatt on Foot—We Concluded to take a Buggy—A Pair of Jolly Drivers—We meet with Companions—A Cheerful Ride—Kandersteg Valley—An Alpine Parlor—Exercise and Amusement—A Race with a LogCHAPTER XXXIVAn Old Guide—Possible Accidents—Dangerous Habitation—Mountain Flowers—Embryo Lions—Mountain Pigs—The End of The World—Ghastly Desolation—Proposed Adventure—Reading-up Adventures—Ascent of Monte Rosa—Precipices and Crevasses—Among the Snows—Exciting Experiences—lee Ridges—The Summit—Adventures PostponedCHAPTER XXXVA New Interest—Magnificent Views—A Mule’s Prefereoces—Turning Mountain Corners—Terror of a Horse—Lady Tourists—Death of a young Countess—A Search for a Hat—What We Did Find—Harris’s Opinion of Chamois—A Disappointed Man—A Giantess—Model for an Empress—Baths at Leuk—Sport in the Water—The Gemmi Precipices—A Palace for an Emperor—The Famous Ladders—Considerably Mixed Up—Sad Plight of a MinisterCHAPTER XXXVISunday Church Bells—A Cause of Profanity—A Magnificent Glacier—Fault Finding by Harris—Almost an Accident—Selfishness of Harris—Approaching Zermatt—The Matterhorn—Zermatt—Home of Mountain Climbers—Fitted out for Climbing—A Fearful Adventure —Never SatisfiedCHAPTER XXXVIIA Calm Decision—“I Will Ascend the Riffelberg”—Preparations for the Trip—All Zermatt on the Alert—Schedule of Persons and Things—An Unprecedented Display—A General Turn—out—Ready for a Start—The Post of Danger—The Advance Directed—Grand Display of Umbrellas—The First Camp—Almost a Panic—Supposed to be Lost—The First Accident—A Chaplain Disabled—An Experimenting Mule—Good Effects of a Blunder—Badly Lost—A Reconnoiter—Mystery and Doubt—Stern Measures Taken—A Black Ram—Saved by a Miracle—The Guide’s GuideCHAPTER XXXVIIIOur Expedition Continued—Experiments with the Barometer—Boiling Thermometer—Barometer Soup—An Interesting Scientific Discovery—Crippling a Latinist—A Chaplain Injured—Short of Barkeepers—Digging a Mountain Cellar—A Young American Specimen—Somebody’s Grandson—Arrival at Riffelberg Botel—Ascent of Gorner Grat—Faith in Thermometers—The MatterhornCHAPTER XXXIXGuide Books—Plans for the Return of the Expedition—A Glacier Train—Parachute Descent from Gorner Grat—Proposed Honors to Harris Declined—All had an Excuse—A Magnificent Idea Abandoned—Descent to the Glacier—A Supposed Leak—A Slow Train—The Glacier Abandoned—Journey to Zermatt—A Scientific QuestionCHAPTER XLGlaciers—Glacier Perils—Moraines—Terminal Moraines—Lateral Moraines—Immense Size of Glacier—Traveling Glacier——General Movements of Glaciers—Ascent of Mont Blacc—Loss of Guides—Finding of Remains—Meeting of Old Friends—The Dead and Living—Proposed Museum—The Relics at ChamonixCHAPTER XLIThe Matterhorn Catastrophe of 1563—Mr Whymper’s Narrative—Ascent of the Matterhorn—The Summit—The Matterhorn Conquered—The Descent Commenced—A Fearful Disaster—Death of Lord Douglas and Two Others—The Graves of the TwoCHAPTER XLIISwitzerland—Graveyard at Zermatt—Balloting for Marriage—Farmers as Heroes—Falling off a Farm—From St Nicholas to Visp—Dangerous Traveling—Children’s Play—The Parson’s Children—A Landlord’s Daughter—A Rare Combination—Ch iIIon—Lost Sympathy—Mont Blanc and its Neighbors—Beauty of Soap Bubbles—A Wild Drive—The King of Drivers—Benefit of getting DrunkCHAPTER XLIIIChamonix—Contrasts—Magnificent Spectacle—The Guild of Guides—The Guide—in—Chief—The Returned Tourist—Getting Diploma—Rigid Rules—Unsuccessful Efforts to Procure a Diploma—The Record-Book—The Conqueror of Mont Blanc—Professional Jealousy —Triumph of Truth—Mountain Music—Its Effect—A Hunt for a NuisanceCHAPTER XLIVLooking at Mont Blanc—Telescopic Effect—A Proposed Trip—Determination and Courage—The Cost all counted——Ascent of Mont Blanc by Telescope—Safe and Rapid Return—Diplomas Asked for and Refused—Disaster of 1866—The Brave Brothers—Wonderful Endurance and Pluck—Love Making on Mont Blanc—First Ascent of a Woman—Sensible AttireCHAPTER XLVA Catastrophe which Cost Eleven Lives—Accident of 1870—A Party of Eleven—A Fearful Storm—Note-books of the Victims—Within Five Minutes of Safety—Facing Death ResignedlyCHAPTER XLVIThe Hotel des Pyramids—The Glacier des Bossons—One of the Shows—Premeditated Crime—Saved Again—Tourists Warned—Advice to Tourists—The Two Empresses—The Glacier Toll Collector—Pure Ice Water—Death Rate of the World—Of Various Cities—A Pleasure Excursionist—A Diligence Ride—A Satisfied EnglishmanCHAPTER XLVIIGeneva—Shops of Geneva—Elasticity of Prices—Persistency of Shop-Women—The High Pressure System—How a Dandy was brought to Grief—American Manners—Gallantry—Col Baker of London—Arkansaw Justice—Safety of Women in America—Town of Chambery—A Lively Place—At Turin—A Railroad Companion—An Insulted Woman—City of Turin—Italian Honesty—A Small Mistake —Robbing a Beggar WomanCHAPTER XLVIIIIn Milan—The Arcade—Incidents we Met With—The Pedlar—Children—The Honest Conductor—Heavy Stocks of Clothing—The Quarrelsome Italians—Great Smoke and Little Fire—The Cathedral—Style in Church—The Old Masters—Tintoretto’s great Picture—Emotional Tourists—Basson’s Famed Picture—The Hair TrunkCHAPTER XLIXIn Venice—St Mark’s Cathedral—Discovery of an Antique—The Riches of St Mark’s—A Church Robber—Trusting Secrets to a Friend —The Robber Hanged—A Private Dinner—European FoodCHAPTER LWhy Some things Are—Art in Rome and Florence—The Fig Leaf Mania—Titian’s Venus—Difference between Seeing and Describing A Real work of Art—Titian’s Moses—Home
A—The Portier analyzedB—Hiedelberg Castle DescribedC—The College Prison and InmatesD—The Awful German LanguageE—Legends of the CastleF—The Journals of Germany