"Last scene of all,That ends this strange, eventful history."
"Last scene of all,That ends this strange, eventful history."
The gate was in 1876 finally cleared of priests and altars, and allowed to revert to its original form.
Not far from the Porta Nigra stands the Cathedral, one of the oldest in Germany, archæologically interesting, inasmuch as it owes its inception to the Romans. The Basilica, built by Valentinian as a court of law, is clearly traceable in the present cathedral, and one reads a strange tale of Romans andFranks in the sandstone and limestone and brick of its walls. Here is treasured the famous Heilige Rock, or holy coat worn by our Saviour when a boy. At rare intervals this garment is exhibited to the faithful, who come from all countries to gaze reverently upon it. Who that has seen can forget the last exposition in 1891? Never before or since has there been anything more pathetic than the sight of the long rows of tired, haggard, perspiring, praying pilgrims, who stood patiently for hours in the broiling August sun, moving only when permitted, and then at a snail's pace, towards their Mecca. Plebeian though the majority of faces were, their devotional, solemn, rapt expressions for the time being ennobled and beautified them.
Trèves during that time, however, was by no means the reposeful, dignified city it is to-day. Its buildings were defaced with flags and banners, its streets blocked with pilgrims, and the road leading from the station to the town was lined with booths, whose owners disposed quickly of such delicacies as Napfkuchen, Streusel-Kuchen, and Apfelwein. Piety and profit went everywhere hand-in-hand, and a roaring trade was done in rosaries and bénitiers, the last made of the blue pottery of the country, andstamped with a representation of Leo XIII. against a background of Domkirche.
But to be thoroughly in harmony with Trèves one must be Pagan and Roman rather than Christian and German. Indeed, one feels in sympathy with the Isle of Wight farmer who after he had found a Roman villa on his farm gave up the bucolic and inglorious occupation of growing turnips and potatoes, and could talk of nothing meaner than hypocausts and thermae. So we, like the farmer, slight the really beautiful Early Gothic "Liebfrauenkirche" and roam and muse for hours about the ruins of the Amphitheatre, the Roman Baths, the Roman Palace and the Basilica.
LONDON: PRINTED BY WILLIAM CLOWES AND SONS, LIMITED,DUKE STREET, STAMFORD STREET, S.E., AND GREAT WINDMILL STREET, W.
Transcriber's Notespage23—inserted a missing closing quote after 'Dank!'page36—inserted a missing period after 'Burns'page61—inserted a missing closing quote after 'France'page82—typo fixed: changed a comma into a period after 'pavement'page83—typo fixed: changed a comma into a period after 'Electors'page93—spelling normalized: changed the position of semi-colon and a quote after 'Cigaretten'
page23—inserted a missing closing quote after 'Dank!'page36—inserted a missing period after 'Burns'page61—inserted a missing closing quote after 'France'page82—typo fixed: changed a comma into a period after 'pavement'page83—typo fixed: changed a comma into a period after 'Electors'page93—spelling normalized: changed the position of semi-colon and a quote after 'Cigaretten'