memories of a three days' stay on the summit of,194-199;wherein its charm consists,198,199,280.Opium habit, among coolies,107,108;rare in Mongolia,255.Opium trade, in Yunnan,25,26;Manchu government adverse to,26.Pai-chang, hiring a pony at,163-165.Pai-la shu (white-wax tree),73.Pailou (memorial arch),104,105.Palm-leaf hats,19,20.Pao-an-ying,95.Paper, substitute for glass in West China,40.Passports, lack of,11;not required within Chinese Empire,212;for Mongolia,237.Pechihli, Gulf of,228.Peking, arrival at,228;situation of,228,229;the Tartar Wall,229ff.;the divers cities of,230;viewed from the Wall,231,232;the American Legation,232;the streets,232;to the average European its history begins in 1900,233;preparing for Mongolian journey at,237ff.;24,163,176,222,223,280.Peking cart, an instrument of torture,243,244.Peking railway, the. See Lu-Han R.R.People's Assembly, the,230.Photographing, in Szechuan,156.Pien-ma boundary question,29,30.Pilgrim to Lhasa, the,112.Pilgrims to Omei Shan,185,187,189,193,195.P'ing-i-p'u,98,99.Polo, Marco,74,81,124,171,172,230,244,248,250.Pongkiong,260.Ponies, Yunnanese,34,35.Poppies, not now cultivated in Yunnan,26;banished from Chien Ch'ang,72,94."Pork money,"36,96,97.Post-routes, between Kalgan and Siberian frontier,245,246.Praying-Stones,138.Precious Stone Castle,214.Protestant missions in China, achievement of,158,159.P'u-chi,53.P'u-hsien Bodhisattva,189,190,191.P'u Yi, the baby Emperor, and the new government,231.Purple City, the, in Peking,230.Queue, the,43.Railway, projected by Chinese Government,15,16.Railways in China, history of,225,226;the Kalgan-Peking line the first one built by Chinese,234.Rainy season, the, in No. Mongolia,270-272.Rats,21.Red lama, the,258,265.Red River R.R., from Hanoi to Yunnan-fu,14-23;no night traffic on,14;accommodations on,14;a remarkable undertaking,14,15;engineering difficulties of,15;rates on, excessive,15;4.Reeves, Captain,237.Reform movement, in Yunnan,27."Relay," the. See Mongolian Road.Religion, in India,310;in China,311.Religions, great diversity of, in Yunnan,50.Revolution, Chinese, effect of, on railway project,16;27,28,125,177,201,222.Richthofen, Baron von,106,165,166.Rivers of Sand. See Sha Ho.Rockhill, Mr. W. W., American explorer and diplomat,112.Roman Catholic missions in China,158.Roman Catholic missionaries at Chengtu,174.Rosthorn, A. de, hisTea Cultivation in Szechuan,163.Russia, and the Mongolian postal service,246;her policy of "peaceful penetration,"246;extension of her influence in No. Mongolia,284,285.Russian Consulate at Urga,277,278.Russian frontier. See Siberian frontier.Russian settlement in Urga,277,291.Russians, in Urga,284.Russo-Asiatic Bank (Urga),241,277,284.Sacred City, the. See Urga.Salween River,71.Sandals,43,44."Second Gentleman," the (son of Li Ping),167.Sedan-chair, method of travelling in, described,34.Sha Ho,252.Sha Shen Ho,244.Shamo. See Gobi Desert.Shanghai,4,222,225,226.Shans, in Yunnan,50.Shantung,236.Shields, Dr.,158.Shields, Mrs.,158.Shih Ta-k'ai, Taiping leader,89,99.Shyok River,60.Si Kiang, the,29.Siberian frontier, post-routes fromKalgan to,245,246;arrival at,301-303.Siberian Railway,236,306,307.Sikiang, the, river steamer, from Hong Kong to Haiphong on,5-11.Sinden-fu, Marco Polo's name for Chengtu,171.Singapore, Chinese Consul-General at, his mourning,88.Six-Power Loan of 1908, proved the undoing of the Manchus,226.Soap, in Mongolia,261,262.Soothill, Dr.,159."Squeeze," the,96,97.Standard Oil Co., and the white-wax industry,73;85.Standard Oil tins, use of, in Mongolia,250.Stevenson, Owen, missionary,33,41,53.Süchi,184.Sugar, a great delicacy in Mongolia,301.Suifu,64,75,203,206.Sung-lin, inn at,87.Szechuan province, natives of,51;travelling in,63ff.;the Cloud Mountains,64;private school in,67,68;condition of people in,68;western boundary of,124;beginning of its later history,171,172;viceroy of,172;Railway League of, and the revolution,177;"chuman" pagodas of,204;the river the sole highway to,219;future of,219,220;5,26,37,39,55.Szechuan dogs, and the sun,64.Szechuan money,37.Szechuan road, the,217,218.Ta Ho,235.Ta Fo Rapid,181.Ta Huren, the Mongol city of Urga,277,286-288;alien elements in,287,288;291.Ta Liang Shan (Lololand),74,75,92.Ta Shueh Shan,117.Ta Tu Ho, the limit of direct Chinese administration,124;its only bridge,116,117,139;its change of name,118,119;valley of,114,115,144,145;42,89,99,101,143,161,180,181,182,184.Tachienlu,sui generis,123;situation of,123;China and Tibet meet in,123;in the grip of lamaism,124;principality of King of Chala,125;government of,125;key to the western country,125;meeting Capt. Bailey at,126ff.;postal arrangements at,128;the people the most interesting feature of,130,131;practically all China-Tibet traffic passes through,132,133;visit to a temple at,136-138;priests of,138;105,106,110,119,141,160,248.Tailless dog, hunt for the,205.Taiping rebellion, the,89,99.Ta-kiang, the Min sometimes so-called,203.Taoism,317.Tar Ho,123.Tarantass, travelling in a,289-304.Tarchendo River,118,119,120,123,141,142;valley of,119,120,121.Tartar City, the, in Peking,230.Tartar Wall, the, at Peking,229ff.Tashi Lama, the,277.Ta-shu-p'u, unique instance ofnative unfriendliness at,99,100;101,105.Tchagan Hou,269,271,274,289.Tea, on the Mandarin Road,105ff.;heavy loads of carriers of,105;of Ming Shan,163.And see Brick tea.Tea, Szechuan,159.Tea-houses, on the Mandarin Road,108,109;44.Temple of Heaven, the,230,231.Temples, Chinese, generally uninteresting,32.Teng-hsiang-ying,89,90,92.Tents, in Mongolia, described by Marco Polo and by Abbé Huc,248-250.Tibet, and China, meet in Tachienlu,123;frontier of,124;relations with China, how affected by Chinese revolution,125;Chinese conquest of,125,126.Tibet, Western, adventure in,60.Tibetan Mountains,92,123,162.Tibetans, consume vast quantities of brick-tea,105,160;in Tachienlu,124,131,134;defended by Captain Bailey,132;in Omei,190;and Mongols,248;effect of lamaism on,282.Tien-chüan-chou, approach to,153,154;155.Tien-Shan,251.Tientsin,257,279.Tobacco, use of, universal,66,67.Tola River,274,275,276.Tommy Atkins, in India, and the vernacular,20.Tonking, under Doumer,9-11;its value as the key to China,10.Tonking-Yunnan R.R. See Red River R.R."Trackers" on the Yangtse,215,216,218,219.Travellers on Red River R.R.,16,17.Tso-ling Ho,62.Tsungli Yamen,229.Tuan Fang,226,227.Tuerin,268,269.Urga, the Sacred City, approach to,273,274;first sight of,274;arrival at,275;three cities in one,276,277;Chinese government of,277;described,277;worship of Bogdo in,277;pilgrimages to,278;a wealthy Mongol household in,282-284;railway prospects of,285;difficult departure from,289-291;6,29,238,239,240,241,243,244,245,252,253,257,304.Vegetables, washing, in China,206;fresh, for Mongolian journey,242.Verchneudinsk,304,305,306,307.Villages, in Yunnan,45.Wa Ssu Kou,118,119,141,142.Wagons Lits, Hôtel des, at Peking,228.Wai-wu-pu, the,237,243.Wang, interpreter, cook, and general factotum, for the Mongolian journey,237,241,242,257,262,269,275,289,290,291,294,297,299.Wan-hsien,177,214,219.Wan-nien Ssu,190,191.Water, a serious problem in the Gobi Desert,264.Water Gate (Peking),229.Wellwood, Mr., missionary,81,84.Wellwood, Mrs.,178.Wells, in Gobi Desert,252,264.West, the, zeal of, mars as well as mends,129.West China, former ways of reaching,3;now simplified by French enterprise,3.West River valley,16.White Emperor's Temple, the,217.White Tsar, the,246.White-wax industry, the,72,73;wrecked by Standard Oil Co.,73.Wild life, in the Gobi Desert,262,263.Windbox Gorge,216."Wine money,"83,84.Wives, come high in Mongolia,261;their status,261.Wolves, Mongolian,262,263.Women, Chinese, qualities of,86.Women, Mongolian, their vanity,261,262;their dress,270,271;250,251.Woosung,225.Wuchang, provincial capital of Hupeh,222.See Hankow.Wu-pan (boat), down the Min and Yangtse in,202ff.Wu-ting-chou,57-60.Ya Ho, difficult navigation of,161;scenery on,161,162;valley of,157;152,154,180,184.Ya-chou,105,106,139,140,155,157,158,159,161,166,207.Yalung River,67,71.Yang, Mr.,211.Yangtse River, crossing,63;its swift current,63,64;the "River of Golden Sand,"64;at Suifu,206;travelling on,206ff.;gorges of,218;