"Godis alone permanent.This is the Sepulchre of his servant and Martyr,who having placed his confidence in the MostHigh, he trusts that his sins will be forgiven."Joseph, son ofAbdallah, of the town ofMetelin,died in the moonZilhage.
"Godis alone permanent.This is the Sepulchre of his servant and Martyr,who having placed his confidence in the MostHigh, he trusts that his sins will be forgiven."
"Godis alone permanent.
This is the Sepulchre of his servant and Martyr,
who having placed his confidence in the Most
High, he trusts that his sins will be forgiven."
Joseph, son ofAbdallah, of the town ofMetelin,died in the moonZilhage.
Joseph, son ofAbdallah, of the town ofMetelin,
died in the moonZilhage.
I bought here an Egyptian householdGod, orLarof solid metal, which was lately dug up near the city walls; it is about nine inches high, and weighs about five pounds. Several of the hieroglyphic characters are visible on the breast and back, and its form is that of an embalmed mummy. By a wholesome law of this city, the richest citizen must be buried like the poorest, in a coffin of nine livres value, and that coffin must be bought at the general Hospital. The sale of these coffins for the dead, goes a great way towards the support of the poor and the sick.
At this town I experienced the very reverse in every respect of what I met with atBarcelona, though I had no better recommendation to Mr.Birbeck, his Britannick Majesty's Agent here, than I had to the Consul ofBarcelona; he took my word, at first sight, nay, he took my notes and gave me money for them, and shewed me and my family many marks of friendly attention: Such a man, at such a distance from ones own country, is a cordial to a troubled breast, and an acquisition to every Englishman who goes there either for health or curiosity. Mr.Birbecktook me with him to a noble Concert, to which he is an annual subscriber, and which was performed in a room in every respect suitable to so large a band, and so brilliant an assembly: He and his good wife were the only two British faces I had seen for many months, who looked like Britons. I shall, indeed I must, soon leave this town, and shall takeAvignonon my way toLyons, from whence you shall soon hear from me again.
I had forgot to mention, when I was speaking ofMontpellier, that the first gentry are strongly impressed with the notion of the superiority of the English, in every part of philosophy, more especially in the science of physic; and I found atMontpellier, that these sentiments so favourable to our countrymen, had been much increased by the extraordinary knowledge and abilities of Dr.Milman, an English physician, who resided there during the winter 1775. This gentleman, who is one of DoctorRadcliffe'stravelling physicians, had performed several very astonishing cures, in cases which the French Physicians had long treated without success: And indeed the French physicians, however checked by interest or envy, were obliged to acknowledge this gentleman's uncommon sagacity in the treatment of diseases. What I say of this ingenious traveller, is for your sake more than his; for I know nothing more of him than the fame he has left behind him atMontpellier, and which I doubt not will soon be verified by his deeds among his own countrymen.
Avignon.
There is no dependence on what travellers say of different towns and places they have visited, and therefore you must not lay too much stress upon what I say. A Lady of fashion, who had travelled all over France, gave the preference to the town I wrote last to you from (Marseilles); to me, the climate excepted, it is of all others the most disagreeable; yet that Lady did not mean to deceive; but people often prefer the town for the sake of the company they find, or some particular or local circumstance that attended their residence in it; in that respect, I too left it reluctantly, having met with much civility and some old friends there; but surely, exclusive of its fine harbour, and favourable situation for trade, it has little else to recommend it, but riot, mob, and confusion; provisions are very dear, and not very good.
On our road here we came again throughAix. TheMule blanchewithout the town, is better than any auberge within, and Mons.L'Abbe Abrard Prætor, de la ordre de St. Malta, is not only a very agreeable, but a very convenient acquaintance for a stranger, and who is always ready to shew the English in particular, attention, and who had much attention shewn him by Lord A.Percyand his Lady.
FromAixwe passed throughLambresque,Orgon, andSencage, a fine country, full of almond trees, and which were in full blossom on the 7th of March. AtOrgonthe post-house was so bad, that after my horse was in the stable, I was obliged to put him to, and remove to theSoleil d'Or, without the town, and made a good move too. The situation ofNotre Dame de St. Piere, a convent on a high hill, is worthy of notice, and the antiquity of the town also.—Five leagues fromOrgonwe crossed a very aukward passage in a ferry-boat, and were landed in the Pope's territories, about five miles fromAvignon. The castle, and higher part of the town, were visible, rising up in the middle of a vast plain, fertile and beautiful as possible. If we were charmed with the distant view, we were much more so upon a nearer approach; nothing can be more pleasing than the well-planted, and consequently well-shaded coach and foot roads all round this pretty little city; all shut in with the most beautiful ancient fortification walls I ever beheld, and all in perfect repair; nor were we asked any questions by the Pope's soldiers, or Custom-house Officers. I had a letter to Dr.Power, an English Physician in this town, who received me with great civity, and made me known toLord Mountgarret, and Mr.Butler, his son, with whom I had the honour to spend some very agreeable hours: his Lordship has an excellent house here, and keeps a table, truly characteristic of the hospitality of his own country.—And now I cannot help telling you of a singular disorder which attacked me the very day I arrived; and the still more singular manner I got well: the day before I arrived, we had been almost blown along the road toOrgonby a most violent wind; but I did not perceive that I had received any cold or injury from it, till we arrived here, and then, I had such an external soreness from head to foot, that I almost dreaded to walk or stir, and when I did, it was as slow as my feet could move; after continuing so for some days, I was much urged to dine with LordMountgarret, on St. Patrick's day; I did so, and by drinking a little more than ordinary, set nature to work, who, without any other Doctor, did the business, by two or three nights' copious sweats. I would not have mentioned this circumstance, but it may be themal du pais, and ought to be mentioned for themethod of cure.
There was not quite so good an understanding between the Pope'sLegateand the English residing here, as could be wished; some untoward circumstance had happened, and there seemed to be faults on both sides; it was carried, I think, to such a length, that when the English met him, they did not pull off their hats; but as it happened before I came, and as in our walks and rides we often met him airing in his coach, we paid that respect which is everywhere due to a first magistrate, and he took great pains to return it most graciously; his livery, guards, &c. make a very splendid appearance: he holds a court, and is levee'd every Sunday, though not liked by the French. At the church of St.Didier, in a little chapel, of mean workmanship, is the tomb of the celebratedLaura, whose namePetrarchhas rendered immortal; the general opinion is, that she died a virgin; but it appears by her tomb, that she was the wife ofHugues de Sade, and that she had many children. About two hundred years after her death, some curious people got permission to open her tomb, in which they found a little box, containing some verses written byPetrarch, and a medallion of lead, on one side of which was a Lady's head and on the reverse, the four following letters, M.L.M.E.
Francisthe First, passing thro'Avignon, visited this tomb, and left upon it the following epitaph, of his own composition:
"En petit lien compris vous pouvez voirCe qui comprend beaucoup par renommèePlume, labour le langue & le devoirFurent vaincus par l'aimant de l'aiméeO gentille ame, etant tant estiméeQui le pourra louer quen se laissant?Car la parole est toujours repriméeQuand le sujet surmonte le disant."
"En petit lien compris vous pouvez voirCe qui comprend beaucoup par renommèePlume, labour le langue & le devoirFurent vaincus par l'aimant de l'aiméeO gentille ame, etant tant estiméeQui le pourra louer quen se laissant?Car la parole est toujours repriméeQuand le sujet surmonte le disant."
"En petit lien compris vous pouvez voir
Ce qui comprend beaucoup par renommèe
Plume, labour le langue & le devoir
Furent vaincus par l'aimant de l'aimée
O gentille ame, etant tant estimée
Qui le pourra louer quen se laissant?
Car la parole est toujours reprimée
Quand le sujet surmonte le disant."
This town is crowded with convents and churches. The convent of theCelestines, founded byCharlesthe VIth, is richly endowed, and has noble gardens: there are not above fourteen or fifteen members, and their revenue is near two thousand pounds sterling a year. In their church is a very superb monument of PopeClementthe VIIth, who died here in the year 1394, as a long Latin inscription upon it announces. They shew in this house a picture, painted by KingRenee; it represents the frightful remains of his beloved mistress, whose body he took out of the grave, and painted it in the state he then found it, i.e. with the worms crawling about it: it is a hideous figure, and hideously painted; the stone coffin stands on a line with the figure, but is above a foot too short for the body; and on the other side is a long scrole of verses, written in Gothic characters, which begin thus:
"Une fois fus sur toutes femmes belleMais par la mort suis devenue telleMachair estoit tres-belle fraische & tendreO'r est elle toute tournee en cendre."
"Une fois fus sur toutes femmes belleMais par la mort suis devenue telleMachair estoit tres-belle fraische & tendreO'r est elle toute tournee en cendre."
"Une fois fus sur toutes femmes belle
Mais par la mort suis devenue telle
Machair estoit tres-belle fraische & tendre
O'r est elle toute tournee en cendre."
There follow at least forty other such lines.
There is also in this convent, a fine monument, on which stands the effigies ofSt. Benezet, a shepherd ofAvignon, who built (they say) the bridge from the town over the Rhone, in consequence of a dream, in the year 1127: some of the noble arches are still standing, and part of a very pretty chapel on it, nearly in the middle of the river; but a great part of the bridge has been carried away, many years since, by the violence of the river, which often not only overflows its banks, but the lower part of the town. In 1755, it rose seventeen feet higher than its usual flowing, and I saw marks in many of the streets, high above my head, against the sides of houses, which it had risen to; but with all my industry, I could find nomark upon the house where Lady Mary Wortley Montagu dwelt, though she resided some time here, and though I endeavoured to find it.
I need not describe the celebrated fountain ofVaucluse, near this town, wherePetrarquecomposed his works, and established Mount Parnassus. This is the only part of France in which there is an Inquisition, but the Officers seem content with their profits and honours, without the power.
One part of the town is allotted to the Jews, where about six or seven hundred live peaceably and have their synagogue; and it was here the famous rabbinJoseph Meirwas born; he died in the year 1554; he was author, you know, ofAnnals des Rois de France, andde la Maison Ottomane.
Not far fromAvignon, on the banks of the same rapid river, standsBeaucaire, famous for its annualfair, where merchandize is brought from all parts of Europe, free of all duties: it begins on the 22d of July; and it is computed that eight million of livres are annually expended there in eight days.Avignonis remarkable for the No. Seven, having seven ports, seven parishes, seven colleges, seven hospitals, and seven monasteries; and I may add, I think, seven hundred bells, which are always making a horrid jingle, for they have no idea of ringing bells harmoniously in any part of France.
Lyons.
After a month's residence atAvignon, where I waited till the weather and roads amongst the highDauphinemountains were both improved, I sat out for this city. I had, you know, outward bound, dropt down toPort St. Espritby water, so it was a new scene to us by land, and I assure you it was a fine one; the vast and extensive rich vales, adorned on all sides with such romantic mountains, could not be otherwise, in such a climate. Our first stage was only four leagues toOrange; this is the last town in the Pope's territories; and within a quarter of a mile of it stands, in a corn field, a beautiful Roman triumphal arch, so great inruins, that it would be an ornament even in Rome. ThePalais Royalat this town, has nothing to recommend it, but that it affords a prospect of this rich morsel of antiquity.
FromOrangewe passed throughPierlaite, Donzeir, and several smaller towns, and we lay one night at a single house, but an excellent auberge, calledSouce, kept by an understanding sensible host.
At a little village calledA'tang, on the banks of the Rhone, we stopped a day or two, to enjoy the sweet situation. Just opposite to it, on the other side of the river, stands a large town, (Tournau,) which added to the beauty of our village, over which hangs a very high mountain, from whence the best Hermitage wine is collected: I suppose it is calledHermitage, from a Hermit's cell on the top of it; but so unlike theMontserratHermitages, that I contented myself with only tasting the Hermit's wine; it was so good indeed, that though I did not see how it was possible to get it safe to the north side of France, I could not withstand the temptation of buying a cask, for which I was to pay twelve guineas, and did pay one as earnest, to a very sensible, and I believe honest and opulent wine merchant, who, however, made me a present of two bottles when I came away, almost worth my guinea; it is three livres a bottle on the spot; and he shewed me orders he had received from men of fashion in England, for wine; among which was one from Mr.Ryder, SirDudley Ryder's son I fancy, who, I found, was well satisfied with his former dealings. Do you know that Claret is greatly improved by a mixture of Hermitage, and that the best Claret we have in England is generally soadulterated?
The next towns we passed werePevigeandVienne, the latter only five leagues from this city. It is a very ancient town, and was formerly a Roman colony. The cathedral is a large and noble Gothic structure, and in it is a fine tomb of CardinalMountmoin, said to be equal in workmanship toRichlieu's in theSorbonne, but said to be so, by people no ways qualified to judge properly; it is indeed an expensive but a miserable performance, when put in competition with the works ofGirrardeau. About half a mile without the town is a noble pyramidal Roman monument, said to have stood in the center of the Market-place, in the time of the Romans. There is also to be seen in this town, a Mosaic pavement discovered only a few years since, wonderfully beautiful indeed, and near ten feet square, though not quite perfect, being broken in the night by some malicious people, out of mere wantonness, soon after it was discovered.
At this town I was recommended to theTable Round; but as there are two, thegrandeand thepetit, I must recommend you to thepetitwhere I was obliged to move; for, of all the dreadful women I ever came near, MadamRousillionhas theleast mellifluousnotes; her ill behaviour, however, procured me the honour of a very agreeable acquaintance, theMarquis DeValan, who made me ashamed, by shewing us an attention we had no right to expect; but this is one, among many other agreeable circumstances, which attend strangers travelling in France. French gentlemen never see strangers ill treated, without standing forth in their defence; and I hope English gentlemen will follow their example, because it is a piece of justice due to strangers, in whatever country they are, or whatever country they are from; it is doing as one would be done by. That prejudice which prevails in England, even among some people of fashion, against the French nation is illiberal, in the highest degree; nay, it is more, it is a national disgrace.—When I recollect with what ease and uninterruption I have passed through so many great and little towns, and extensive provinces, without a symptom of wanton rudeness being offered me, I blush to think how a Frenchman, if he made no better figure than I did, would have been treated in a tour through Britain.—My Monkey, with a pair of French jack boots, and his hairen queue, rode postillion upon my sturdy horse some hours every day; such a sight, you may be sure, brought forth old and young, sick and lame, to look at him and his master.Jockoput whole towns in motion, but never brought any affront on his master; they came to look and to laugh, but not to deride or insult. The post-boys, it is true, did not like to see their fraternitytaken off, in mylittle Theatre; but they seldom discovered it, but by a grave salutation; and sometimes a good humoured fellow called him comrade, and madeJockoa bow; they could not laugh at his bad seat, for not one of them rode with more ease; or had a handsomer laced jacket. Mr.Buffonsays, the Monkey orMaggot, (and mine is the latter, for he has no tail) make their grimace or chattering equally to shew their anger or to make known their appetite. With all due deference to this great naturalist, I must beg leave to say, that his observation is not quite just; there is as much difference between the grimace of myJocko, when he is angry or hungry, and when he grins to shew delight, as there is in a man, when he gnashes his teeth in wrath, or laughs from mirth.
BetweenAvignonand this town I met a dancing bear, mounted by aMaggot: as it was upon the high road, I desired leave to presentJockoto his grandfather, for so he appeared both in age and size; the interview, though they were both males, was very affecting; never did a father receive a long-lost child with more seeming affection than theold gentlemandid myJocko; he embraced him with every degree of tenderness imaginable, while theyoung gentleman(like other young gentlemen of the present age) betrayed a perfect indifference. In my conscience I believe it, there was some consanguinity between them, or the reception would have proved more mutual. Between you and me, I fear, were I to return to England, I might find myself a sad party in such an interview. It is a sad reflection; but perhaps Providence may wisely ordain such things, in order as men grow older, to wean them from the objects of their worldly affections, that they may resign more readily to the decree of fate. That good man, Dr.Arbuthnot, did not seem to dread the approach of death on his own account, so much as from the grievous afflictionhehad reason to fear it would bring upon his children and family.
Lyons,
The Harangue of theEmperorClaudius,in theSenate.Copied from the original Bronze plate in the Hotel de Ville, ofLyons.
First Table.
Mœrerum . nostr:::::sii::::::::: Equidem · primam · omnium · illam · cogitationem · hominum · quam · maxime · primam · occursuram · mihi · provideo · deprecor · ne · quasi · novam · istam · rem · introduci · exhorrescatis · sed · illa · potius · cogitetis · quam · multa · in · hac · civitate · novata · sint · et · quidem · statim · ab · origine · vrbis · nostræ · in · quod · formas · statusque · res · P · nostra · diducta · sit.
Quandam · reges · hanc · tenuere · vrbem · nec tamen · domesticis · successoribus · eam · tradere · contigit · supervenere · alieni · et · quidam · externi · vt · Numa · Romulo · successerit · ex. Sabinis · veniens · vicinus · quidem · se · tunc.
Sed · tunc · externus · ut · Anco · Marcio · Priscus · Tarquinius · propter · temeratum · sanguinem · quod · Patre · Demaratho · Corinthio · natus · erat · et · Tarquiniensi · Matre · generoso · sed · inopi · ut · quæ · tali · marito · necesse · habuerit · succumbere · cum · domi · repelleretur. A · gerendis · honoribus · postquam · Roman · migravit · regnum · adeptus · est · huic · quoque · et · filio · nepotive · ejus · nam · et · hoc · inter · auctores · discrepat · insertus · Servius · Tullius · si · nostros · sequimur · captiva · natus · ocresia · si · tuscos · cœli · quandam · vivennæ · sodalis · fidelissimus · omnisque · ejus · casus · comes · post · quam · varia · fortuna · exactus · cum · omnibus · reliquis. cæliani · exercitus · Etruria · excepit · mentem · cælium · occupavit · et · a · duce · suo · cælio · ita · appellitatus · mutatoque · nomine · nam · Tusce · mostrana · ei · nomen · erat · ita · appellatus · est · ut · dixi · et · regnum · summa · cum · rei · p · utilitate · optinuit · deinde · postquam · Tarquini · superbi · mores · invisi · civitati · nostræ · esse · cœperunt · qua · ipsius · qua · filiorum · ejus · nempe · pertæsum · est · mentes · regni · et · ad·consules.
Annuos · magistratus · administratio · rei · p · translata · est · quid · nunc · commemorem · dictatu · valentius · repertum · apud · majores · nostros · quo · in · asperioribus · bellis · aut · in · civili · motu · difficiliore · uterentur · aut · in · auxilium · plebis · creatos · tribunos · plebei · quid · a · latum · imperium · solutoque · postea · Decemvirali · regno · ad · consules · rursus · reditum · quid · indecoris · distributum · consulare · imperium · tribunosque · militum · consulari · imperio · appellatos · qui · seni · et · sæpe · octoni · crearentur · quid · communicatos · postremo · cum · plebe · honores · non · imperi · solum · sed · sacerdotiorum · quoque · jam · si · narrem · bella p · quibus · cœperint · majores · nostri · et · quo · processerimus · vereor · ne · nimio · insolentior · esse · videar · et · quæsisse · jactationem · gloria · prolati · imperi · ultra · oceanum · sed · illoc · potius · revertor · civitatem.
Second Table.
:::::::::::::::::: SANE ::: NOVO :: DIVVS :: AUG ::: LVS. et · Patruus · Ti · Cæsar · omnem · florem · ubisque · coloniarum · ac · municipiorum · bonorum · scilicet · virorum · et · locupletium · in · hac curia · esse · voluit · quid · ergo · non · Italicus · senator · Provinciali · potior · est · jam · vobis · cum · hanc · partem · censuræ · meæ · ad · probare · cœpero · quid · de · ea · re · sentiam · rebus · ostendam · sed · ne · provinciales · quidem · si · modo · ornare · curiam · poterint · rejiciendos · puto.
Ornatissimæ · ecce · colonia · volentissimaque Viennensium · quam · longo · jam · tempore · senatores · huic · curiæ · confert · ex · qua · colonia · inter · paucas · equestris · ordinis · ornamentum L · vestinum · familiarissime · diligo · et · hodieque · in · rebus · meis · detineo · cujus · liberi · tiorum · gradu · post · modo · cum · annis · promoturi · dignitatis · suæ · incrementa · ut · dirum · nomen · latronis · taceam · et · odi · illud · palæstricum · prodigium · quod · ante · in · domum · consulatum · intulit · quam · colonia · sua · solidum civitatis · Romanæ · beneficium · consecuta · est idem · de · patre · ejus · possum · dicere · miserabili · quidem · invtilis · senator · esse · non · possit tempus · est · jam · ri ·Cæsar· Germanice · detegere · te · patribus · conscriptis · quo · tendat · oratio · tua · jam · enim · ad · extremos · fines · Galliæ · Narbonensis · venisti.
Tot · ecce · insignes · juvenes · quot · intuetor · non · magis · sunt · pœnitendi · senatores · quam · ænitet · Persicum · nobilissimum · virum · amicum · meum · inter · imagines · majorum · suorum · Allobrogici · nomen · legere · quod ·sl· hæc · ita · esse · consentitis · quid · ultra · desideratis · quam · ut · vobis · digito · demonstrem · solum · ipsum · ultra · fines · provinciæ · Narbonensis · jam · vobis · senatores · mittere · quando · ex · Luguduno · habere · nos · nostri · ordinis · viros · non · pœnitet · timide · quidem · P · C · vobis · provinciarum · terminos · sum · sed · destricte · jam · comatæ · Galliæ · causa · argenda · est · in · qua. si. quis · hoc · intuetur · quod · bello · per · decem · anno · exercuerunt · divom · Julium · diem · opponat · centum · armorum · immobilem · fidem · obsequiumque · multis · trepidis · rebus · nostris · plusquam · expertum · illi · patri · meo · druso · Germaniam · subi · genti · tutam · quiete · sua · securamque · a · tergo · pacem · præstiterunt · et · quidem · cum ·ad· census · novo · tum · opere · et in · adsueto · gallis · ad · bellum · avocatus · esset · quod · opus · quam · arduum · sit · nobis · nunc · maxime · quam · vis · nihil · ultra · quam · ut · publice · notæ · sint · facultates · nostræ · exquiratur · nimis · magno · experimento · cognoscimus.
The above harangue, made byClaudius, in favor of theLyonoise, and which he pronounced in the Senate, is the only remains of the works of this Emperor, though he composed many.Suetoniussays he composed forty-three books of a history, and left eight compleat of his own life; and adds, that he wrote more elegantly than judiciously.
Lyons.
I have now spent a month in my second visit to this great and flourishing city, and fortunately took lodgings in aHotel, where I found the lady and sister ofMons. Le Marquis De Valan, whose politeness to us I mentioned in a former letter atVienne, and by whose favour I have had an opportunity of seeing more, and being better informed, than I could have been without so respectable an acquaintance. AtVienneI only knew his rank, here I became acquainted with his good character, and fortune, which is very considerable inDauphine, where he has two or three fine seats. His Lady came toLyonsto lye-in, attended by the Marquis's sister, aChanoinesse, a most agreeable sensible woman, of a certain age; but the Countess is young and beautiful.
You may imagine that, after what I said ofLyons, on my waytoSpain, I did not associate much with my own country-folks. On my return, indeed, my principal amusement was to see as much as I could, in a town where so much is to be seen; and in relating to you what I have seen, I will begin with theHotel De Ville; if it had not that name, I should have called it a Palace, for there are few palaces so large or so noble; on the first entrance of which, in the vestibule, you see, fixed in the wall, a large plate of Bronze, bearing stronger marks of fire than of age; on which were engraven, seventeen hundred years ago, two harangues made by the EmperorClaudiusin the senate, in favour of theLyonoise, and which are not only legible at this day, but all the letters are sharp and well executed; the plate indeed is broke quite through the middle, but fortunately the fraction runs between the first and second harangues, so as to have done but little injury among the the letters. As I do not know whether you ever saw a copy of it, I inclose it to you, and desire you will send it as an agreeable exercise, to be well translated by my friend at Oxford.
On the other side of the vestibule is a noble stair-case, on which is well painted the destruction of the city, by so dreadful a fire in the time of the Romans, thatSeneca, who gives an account of it in a letter to his friend, says,
"Una nox fuit inter urbem maximam et nullum."i.e. One night only intervened between a great city and nothing.
"Una nox fuit inter urbem maximam et nullum."
i.e. One night only intervened between a great city and nothing.
There is something awful in this scene, to see on one side of the stair-case the conflagration well executed; on the other, strong marks of the very fire which burnt so many ages ago; for there can be no doubt, but that the Bronze plate then stood in theRoman Hotel de Ville, and was burnt down with it, because it was dug up among the refuse of the old city on the mountain calledFourvire, on the other side of the river, where the original city was built.—In cutting the letters on this large plate of Bronze, they have, to gain room, made no distance between the words, but shewn the division only by a little touch thus < with the graver; and where a word eroded with a C, or G, they have put the touch within the concavity of the letter, otherwise it is admirably well executed.
Upon entering into the long gallery above stairs, you are shewn the late King and Queen's pictures at full length, surrounded with the heads of some hundred citizens; and in one corner of the room an ancient altar, theTaurabolium, dug up in 1704, near the same place whereClaudius'sharangue was found; it is of common stone, well executed, about four feet high, and one foot and a half square; on the front of it is the bull's head, in demi relief, adorned with a garland of corn; on the right side is thevictimaryknifeAof a very singular form; and on the left the head of a ram, adorned as the bull's; near the point of the knife are the following words,cujus factum est; the top of the altar is hollowed out into the form of a shallow bason, in which, I suppose, incense was burnt and part of the victims.
AThe knife, which is cut in demi relief, on theTaurobolium, is crooked upon the back, exactly in the same manner, and form, as may be seen on some of the medals of the Kings of Macedonia.
AThe knife, which is cut in demi relief, on theTaurobolium, is crooked upon the back, exactly in the same manner, and form, as may be seen on some of the medals of the Kings of Macedonia.
AThe knife, which is cut in demi relief, on theTaurobolium, is crooked upon the back, exactly in the same manner, and form, as may be seen on some of the medals of the Kings of Macedonia.
The Latin inscription under the bull's head, is very well cut, and very legible, by which it appears, that by the express order ofCybele, the reputed mother of the Gods, for the honour and health of the EmperorAntoninus Pius, father of his country, and for the preservation of his children, children,Lucius Æmilius CarpusBreceived the horns of the bull, by the ministration ofQuintus Samius Secundus, transported them to the Vatican, and consecrated, at his own expence, this altar and the head of the bullC; but I will send the inscription, and a modelDof the altar, as soon as I can have it made, as I find here a very ingenious sculptor and modeller; who, to my great serprize, says no one has hitherto been taken from it. And here let me observe, lest I forget it, to say, thatAugustuslived three years in this city.
BLucius Æmilius Carpuswas a Priest, and a man of great riches: he was of the quality ofSacrovir, and probably one of the six Priests of the temple of Angustus.—Sextumvir Augustalii.CSeveral inscriptions of this kind have been found both in Italy and Spain, but by far the greater number among the Gauls; and as the sacrifices to the Goddess Cybele were some of the least ancient of the Pagan rites, so they were the last which were suppressed on the establishment of Christianity. Since we find one of the Taurobolian inscriptions, with so recent a date as the time of the Emperor Valentinian the third. The silence of the Heathen writers on this head is very wonderful; for the only one who makes any mention of them is Julius Firmicus Maternus, in his dissertation on the errors of the Pagan religion; as Dalenius, in his elaborate account of the Taurobolium, has remarked.The ceremony of the consecration of the High Priest of Cybele, which many learned men have mistaken for the consecration of the Roman Pontifex Maximus; which dignity, from the very earliest infancy of the Roman Empire, was always annexed to that of the Emperor himself.The Priests who had the direction of the Taurobola, wore the same vestments without washing out the bloody stains, as long as they would hold together.By these rites and baptisms by blood, they thought themselves, as it were re-born to a life eternal. Sextilius Agefilaus Ædesius says, that he was born a-new, to life eternal, by means of the Taurobolium and Criobolium.Nor were the priests alone initiated in this manner, but also others, who were not of that order; in particular cases the regenerations were only promised for twenty years.Besides the Taurobolia and Criobolia, which were erected at the expence of whole cities and provinces, there were others also, which were founded by the bounty of private people. We often meet with the names of magistrates and priests of other Gods, who were admitted into these mysteries, and who erected Taurobolia as offerings for the safety of the Emperor, or their own. The rites of the Taurobolia lasted sometimes many days.The inscription, on the Taurobolium, which is on the same side with the head of the bull, we have endeavoured to explain by filling up the abbreviations which are met with in the Roman character.taurobolio matris deum magnæ idææquod factum est ex imperiomatris idææ deumpro salute imperatoris cæsaristiti æliiadriani antonini augusti pii patris patriæliberorumque ejuset status coloniæ lugdunensislucius æmilius carpus sextumviraugustalis item dendrophorusvires excepit et a vaticanotranstulit aram et bucraniumsuo impendio consecravitsacerdotequinto sammio secundo ab quindecemvirisoccabo et corona exornatocui sanctissimus ordo lugdunensisperpetuitatem sacerdotis decrevitappio annia atilo bradua titoclodio vibio varo consulibuslocus datus dicreto decurionum.DThe Model is now in the possession of the ingeniousDr.Harringtonat Bath.
BLucius Æmilius Carpuswas a Priest, and a man of great riches: he was of the quality ofSacrovir, and probably one of the six Priests of the temple of Angustus.—Sextumvir Augustalii.
BLucius Æmilius Carpuswas a Priest, and a man of great riches: he was of the quality ofSacrovir, and probably one of the six Priests of the temple of Angustus.—Sextumvir Augustalii.
CSeveral inscriptions of this kind have been found both in Italy and Spain, but by far the greater number among the Gauls; and as the sacrifices to the Goddess Cybele were some of the least ancient of the Pagan rites, so they were the last which were suppressed on the establishment of Christianity. Since we find one of the Taurobolian inscriptions, with so recent a date as the time of the Emperor Valentinian the third. The silence of the Heathen writers on this head is very wonderful; for the only one who makes any mention of them is Julius Firmicus Maternus, in his dissertation on the errors of the Pagan religion; as Dalenius, in his elaborate account of the Taurobolium, has remarked.The ceremony of the consecration of the High Priest of Cybele, which many learned men have mistaken for the consecration of the Roman Pontifex Maximus; which dignity, from the very earliest infancy of the Roman Empire, was always annexed to that of the Emperor himself.The Priests who had the direction of the Taurobola, wore the same vestments without washing out the bloody stains, as long as they would hold together.By these rites and baptisms by blood, they thought themselves, as it were re-born to a life eternal. Sextilius Agefilaus Ædesius says, that he was born a-new, to life eternal, by means of the Taurobolium and Criobolium.Nor were the priests alone initiated in this manner, but also others, who were not of that order; in particular cases the regenerations were only promised for twenty years.Besides the Taurobolia and Criobolia, which were erected at the expence of whole cities and provinces, there were others also, which were founded by the bounty of private people. We often meet with the names of magistrates and priests of other Gods, who were admitted into these mysteries, and who erected Taurobolia as offerings for the safety of the Emperor, or their own. The rites of the Taurobolia lasted sometimes many days.The inscription, on the Taurobolium, which is on the same side with the head of the bull, we have endeavoured to explain by filling up the abbreviations which are met with in the Roman character.taurobolio matris deum magnæ idææquod factum est ex imperiomatris idææ deumpro salute imperatoris cæsaristiti æliiadriani antonini augusti pii patris patriæliberorumque ejuset status coloniæ lugdunensislucius æmilius carpus sextumviraugustalis item dendrophorusvires excepit et a vaticanotranstulit aram et bucraniumsuo impendio consecravitsacerdotequinto sammio secundo ab quindecemvirisoccabo et corona exornatocui sanctissimus ordo lugdunensisperpetuitatem sacerdotis decrevitappio annia atilo bradua titoclodio vibio varo consulibuslocus datus dicreto decurionum.
CSeveral inscriptions of this kind have been found both in Italy and Spain, but by far the greater number among the Gauls; and as the sacrifices to the Goddess Cybele were some of the least ancient of the Pagan rites, so they were the last which were suppressed on the establishment of Christianity. Since we find one of the Taurobolian inscriptions, with so recent a date as the time of the Emperor Valentinian the third. The silence of the Heathen writers on this head is very wonderful; for the only one who makes any mention of them is Julius Firmicus Maternus, in his dissertation on the errors of the Pagan religion; as Dalenius, in his elaborate account of the Taurobolium, has remarked.
The ceremony of the consecration of the High Priest of Cybele, which many learned men have mistaken for the consecration of the Roman Pontifex Maximus; which dignity, from the very earliest infancy of the Roman Empire, was always annexed to that of the Emperor himself.
The Priests who had the direction of the Taurobola, wore the same vestments without washing out the bloody stains, as long as they would hold together.
By these rites and baptisms by blood, they thought themselves, as it were re-born to a life eternal. Sextilius Agefilaus Ædesius says, that he was born a-new, to life eternal, by means of the Taurobolium and Criobolium.
Nor were the priests alone initiated in this manner, but also others, who were not of that order; in particular cases the regenerations were only promised for twenty years.
Besides the Taurobolia and Criobolia, which were erected at the expence of whole cities and provinces, there were others also, which were founded by the bounty of private people. We often meet with the names of magistrates and priests of other Gods, who were admitted into these mysteries, and who erected Taurobolia as offerings for the safety of the Emperor, or their own. The rites of the Taurobolia lasted sometimes many days.
The inscription, on the Taurobolium, which is on the same side with the head of the bull, we have endeavoured to explain by filling up the abbreviations which are met with in the Roman character.
taurobolio matris deum magnæ idææquod factum est ex imperiomatris idææ deumpro salute imperatoris cæsaristiti æliiadriani antonini augusti pii patris patriæliberorumque ejuset status coloniæ lugdunensislucius æmilius carpus sextumviraugustalis item dendrophorusvires excepit et a vaticanotranstulit aram et bucraniumsuo impendio consecravitsacerdotequinto sammio secundo ab quindecemvirisoccabo et corona exornatocui sanctissimus ordo lugdunensisperpetuitatem sacerdotis decrevitappio annia atilo bradua titoclodio vibio varo consulibuslocus datus dicreto decurionum.
taurobolio matris deum magnæ idææquod factum est ex imperiomatris idææ deumpro salute imperatoris cæsaristiti æliiadriani antonini augusti pii patris patriæliberorumque ejuset status coloniæ lugdunensislucius æmilius carpus sextumviraugustalis item dendrophorusvires excepit et a vaticanotranstulit aram et bucraniumsuo impendio consecravitsacerdotequinto sammio secundo ab quindecemvirisoccabo et corona exornatocui sanctissimus ordo lugdunensisperpetuitatem sacerdotis decrevitappio annia atilo bradua titoclodio vibio varo consulibuslocus datus dicreto decurionum.
taurobolio matris deum magnæ idææ
quod factum est ex imperio
matris idææ deum
pro salute imperatoris cæsaris
titi ælii
adriani antonini augusti pii patris patriæ
liberorumque ejus
et status coloniæ lugdunensis
lucius æmilius carpus sextumvir
augustalis item dendrophorus
vires excepit et a vaticano
transtulit aram et bucranium
suo impendio consecravit
sacerdote
quinto sammio secundo ab quindecemviris
occabo et corona exornato
cui sanctissimus ordo lugdunensis
perpetuitatem sacerdotis decrevit
appio annia atilo bradua tito
clodio vibio varo consulibus
locus datus dicreto decurionum.
DThe Model is now in the possession of the ingeniousDr.Harringtonat Bath.
DThe Model is now in the possession of the ingeniousDr.Harringtonat Bath.
TheTauroboliumwas one of the great mysteries, you know, of the Roman religion, in the observance of which, I think, they dug a large hole in the earth, and covered it with planks, laid at certain distances, so as to give light into the subterranean temple. The person who was to receive theTauroboliothen descended into the theatre, and received on his head and whole body, the smoaking hot blood of the bull, which was there sacrificed for that purpose. If a single bull was only sacrificed, I think they call it a simpleTaurabolio, if a ram was added to it, as was sometimes done, it was then called aTorobolia, andCriobolio; sometimes too, I believe a goat was also slain.
After all the blood of the victim animals was discharged, the Priests and Cybils retired beneath the theatre, and he who had received the bloody sacrifice, came forth and exposed himself, besmeared with blood, to the people, who all prostrated themselves before him, with reverential awe, as one who was thereby particularly sanctified, and whose person ought to be regarded with the highest veneration, and looked upon with holy horror; nor did this sanctification, I think, end with the ceremony, but rendered the person of the sanctified holy for twenty years. An inscription cited byGruter, seems to confirm this matter, who, after speaking of oneNepius Egnatius Faventinus, who lived in the year of Christ 176, says,
"Percepto Taurobolio Criobolioque feliciter,"
Concludes with these words,
"Vota Faventinus bis deni suscipit orbis,Ut mactet repetens aurata fronte bicornes."
"Vota Faventinus bis deni suscipit orbis,Ut mactet repetens aurata fronte bicornes."
"Vota Faventinus bis deni suscipit orbis,
Ut mactet repetens aurata fronte bicornes."
Thebis denus orbisseems to imply, the space of twice ten years.
And here I cannot help making a little comparison between the honours paid by the Roman citizens to their Emperors, and those of the present times to the Princes of the Blood Royal. You must know that the present King's brother, came toLyonsin the year 1775, and thus it is recorded in letters of gold upon their quay:
LOUIS XVI. REGNANT.EN MEMOIRE DE L'HEUREUX JOUR CINQ.SEPTEMBRE M,DCC,LXXV.OUMONSIEUR FRERE DU ROIET MADAMESONT ARRIVES EN CETTE VILLECE QUAIDE L'AGREMENT DU PRINCEET PAR ORDONNANCE DU CONSULATDU DOUZE DU MEME MOISA ETE NOMME A PERPETUITEQUAI MONSIEUR.
LOUIS XVI. REGNANT.EN MEMOIRE DE L'HEUREUX JOUR CINQ.SEPTEMBRE M,DCC,LXXV.OUMONSIEUR FRERE DU ROIET MADAMESONT ARRIVES EN CETTE VILLECE QUAIDE L'AGREMENT DU PRINCEET PAR ORDONNANCE DU CONSULATDU DOUZE DU MEME MOISA ETE NOMME A PERPETUITEQUAI MONSIEUR.
LOUIS XVI. REGNANT.
EN MEMOIRE DE L'HEUREUX JOUR CINQ.
SEPTEMBRE M,DCC,LXXV.
OU
MONSIEUR FRERE DU ROI
ET MADAME
SONT ARRIVES EN CETTE VILLE
CE QUAI
DE L'AGREMENT DU PRINCE
ET PAR ORDONNANCE DU CONSULAT
DU DOUZE DU MEME MOIS
A ETE NOMME A PERPETUITE
QUAI MONSIEUR.
If theBourgeoiseofLyons, however, are not men of genius, they are ingenious men, and they have a most delightful country to dwell in. I think I may say, that from the high hills which hang about this city, and taking in the rivers, fertile vales, rude rocks, vine-yards, and country seats, far and near, thatLyonsand its environs, afford a greater variety of natural and artificial beauties, than any spot in Europe. It is, however, by no means a place for the winter residence of a stranger. Most of the natives advanced in years, were carried off last winter. The surly winds which come down the Rhone, with impetuous blasts, are very disagreeable and dangerous. I found the cold intolerable in the beginning of May, out of the sunshine, and the sun intolerable in it. In England I never wore but one under waistcoat; in Spain, and in the south of France, I found two necessary. The Spaniards wear long cloaks, and we laugh at them; but the laugh would come more properly from them. There is in those climates avifnessin the air that penetrates through and through; and I am sure that such who travel to the southward for the recovery of their health, ought to be ten times more upon their guard, to be well secured against the keen blasts the south of France, than even against an easterly wind in England.
The disorder which carried off so many last winter atLyons, was called the Gripe. In a large hotel only one person escaped it, an English Lady. They called it theGripe, from the fast hold it took of the person it seized; nor did it let them go till April.
On my way here, I found it sometimes extremely hot; it is now the first of May, and I am shaking by the side of a good fire, and have had one constantly every day for this fortnight.
Lyons.
TheLyonoisethink their town was particularly honoured by theTaurobolium; but it was a common practice to offer that sacrifice not only for the Emperor's health, but for the preservation of a city. There are two of these altars in the town ofLetoure; one consecrated for the preservation of the EmperorGordian, on which is the following inscription:
PRO SALVTE IMP. ANTONINI GORDIANO PII FEL.AVG. TOTIVSQVE DOMVS DIVINÆ PROQVE STATV CIVIT.LACTOR TOROPOLIVM FECIT ORDO LACTOR D.N. GORDIANOII ET POMPLIANO COS VI ID DEC CVRANTIS MEROTIO ET FESTO CANINIS SACERD.
PRO SALVTE IMP. ANTONINI GORDIANO PII FEL.AVG. TOTIVSQVE DOMVS DIVINÆ PROQVE STATV CIVIT.LACTOR TOROPOLIVM FECIT ORDO LACTOR D.N. GORDIANOII ET POMPLIANO COS VI ID DEC CVRANTIS MEROTIO ET FESTO CANINIS SACERD.
PRO SALVTE IMP. ANTONINI GORDIANO PII FEL.
AVG. TOTIVSQVE DOMVS DIVINÆ PROQVE STATV CIVIT.
LACTOR TOROPOLIVM FECIT ORDO LACTOR D.N. GORDIANO
II ET POMPLIANO COS VI ID DEC CVRANTIS M
EROTIO ET FESTO CANINIS SACERD.
And in a little village nearMarseilles, calledPennes, there is a stone, on which is engraven,
MATRI DEVM MAGNÆ IDEÆ
And on another, in the same town,
MATRI DEVM TAVROPOLIVM.
I must not omit to give you a copy of a singular inscription on the tomb of a mint-master which was found inLyons, and is preserved entire:
NOBILIS TIB. CÆSARIUS AVG. SER ÆQ. MONET HICAD QVI LOCIT JVLIA ADEPTA CONJUNX ETPERPETUA FILIA D.S.D.
NOBILIS TIB. CÆSARIUS AVG. SER ÆQ. MONET HICAD QVI LOCIT JVLIA ADEPTA CONJUNX ETPERPETUA FILIA D.S.D.
NOBILIS TIB. CÆSARIUS AVG. SER ÆQ. MONET HIC
AD QVI LOCIT JVLIA ADEPTA CONJUNX ET
PERPETUA FILIA D.S.D.
The most ancient money which has been found in and about this city, is the little coin ofMark Antony; on one side of which is represented the Triumvirate; on the other, a Lion, with the wordLugudaniunder it; on each side of the Lion are the letters A and XL. The antiquarians here think those letters marked the value of the piece, and that it was about fortysous; but is it not more probable, that this was only the mint-master's touch?
Nothing can be a stronger proof of the importance of this city in the time of the Romans, than the immense expence they were at in erecting such a number of grand aquæducts, one of which was eighteen leagues in length; many parts of them are still visible; and it appears that they spent for the reparation of them atonetime, near one thousand talents; and here it was that the four grand Roman highways divided; one of which went directly to the sea, and another to thePyrenees.
Agrippa, who was the constructor of most of these noble monuments of Roman grandeur, would not permit theLyonoiseto erect any monument among them to his memory; and yet, his memory is, in a very particular manner, preserved to this day in the very heart of the city, for in the front of a house on the quayde Villeroy, is a medallion of baked earth, which, I think, perfectly resembles him; sure I am it is an unquestionable antique; it is a little disfigured indeed, and disgraced by his name being written upon it in modern characters. But there is another monument ofAgrippahere; it is part of the epitaph of an officer or soldier of the third cohort, whose duty it was to take an account of the expence of each day for the subsistence of the troops employed to work on the high-ways, and this officer was calledA. Rationibus Agrippæ.
There are an infinite number of Roman inscriptions preserved atLyons, among which is the following singular one:
DIIS INIQVIS QUI ANIMVLAMTVAM RAPVERVNT.
DIIS INIQVIS QUI ANIMVLAMTVAM RAPVERVNT.
DIIS INIQVIS QUI ANIMVLAM
TVAM RAPVERVNT.
I have already told you of a modern monument erected by theLyonoise, and now, with grief and concern, I must tell you of an ancient one which they have demolished! it was a most beautiful structure, called the tomb of the Two Lovers; that, however, was a mistake; it was the tomb of a brother and sister namedAmandas, orAmans, for near where it stood was lately found the following monumental inscription:
D MET MEMORIAE ÆTERNÆ OLIÆ TRIBVTÆFEMINÆ SANCTISSIME ARVESCIVSAMANDVS FRATER SORORI KARISSMÆSIBIQVE AMANTISSIMÆ P.C. ETSVB OSCIA DEDICAVIT.
D MET MEMORIAE ÆTERNÆ OLIÆ TRIBVTÆFEMINÆ SANCTISSIME ARVESCIVSAMANDVS FRATER SORORI KARISSMÆSIBIQVE AMANTISSIMÆ P.C. ETSVB OSCIA DEDICAVIT.
D M
ET MEMORIAE ÆTERNÆ OLIÆ TRIBVTÆ
FEMINÆ SANCTISSIME ARVESCIVS
AMANDVS FRATER SORORI KARISSMÆ
SIBIQVE AMANTISSIMÆ P.C. ET
SVB OSCIA DEDICAVIT.
I have seen a beautiful drawing of this fine monument, which stood near the high road, a little without the town; the barbarianBourgeoisesthrew it down about seventy years ago, to search for treasure.
But enough of antiquities; and therefore I will tell you truly my sentiments with respect to the south of France, which is, thatLyonsis quite southward enough for an Englishman, who will, if he goes farther, have many wants which cannot be supplied. After quittingLyons, he will find neither good butter, milk, or cream. AtLyons, every thing, which man can wish for, is in perfection; it is indeed a rich, noble, and plentiful town, abounding with every thing that is good, and morefinerythan even inParisitself. They have a good theatre, and some tolerable actors; among whom is the handsomest Frenchman I ever beheld, and, a little stiffness excepted, a good actor.
Any young gentleman traveller, particularlyof the English nation, who is desirous ofreplenishing his purse, cannot, even inParis, find more convenient occasions to throw himself infortune's way, than at the city ofLyons.
An English Lady, and two or three gentlemen, have lately been sofortunate there, as to find lodgingsat a great Hotel, gratis; and I desire you will particularlyrecommend a long stay atLyonsto my Oxonian friend; where he maysee the worldwithout looking out at a window.
I find I omitted to give you before I leftNismes, some account of MonsieurSeguier's cabinet, a gentleman whose name I have before mentioned, and whose conversation and company were so very agreeable to me. Among an infinite number of natural and artificial curiosities, are many ancient Roman inscriptions, one of which is that ofT. Julius Festus, whichSponmentions in hisMelanges D'Antiquite. There are also a great number of Roman utensils of bronze, glass, and earthen-ware. The Romans were well acquainted with the dangerous consequences of using copper vesselsEin their kitchens, as may be seen in this collection, where there are a great many for that purpose; but all strongly gilt, not only within, but without, to prevent a possibility ofverdigrisarising. There is also a bronze head of a Colossal statue, found not many years since near the fountain ofNismes, which merits particular attention, as well as a great number of Roman and Greek medals and medallions, well preserved, and some which are very rare. The natural curiosities are chiefly composed of fossils and petrifications; among the latter, are an infinite number of petrified fishembalmedin solid stones; and where one sees the finest membranes of the fins, and every part of the fish, delineated by the pencil of nature, in the most exquisite manner; the greater part of these petrifications were collected by the hands of the possessor, some fromMount Bola, others fromMount Liban,Switzerland,&c.