METHOD OF CURING HAMS.
In order to make clear certain points in regard to the nature and occurrence of ham souring and to insure a better understanding of the experiments which are to be described later, it would seem best to begin with a brief outline of the method of curing hams as practiced in the larger packing establishments of the country. This description is merely a general outline of the method of preparing hams for cure and the method of handling hams while in cure, and deals chiefly with those points that bear on the question of souring.
After the slaughtered animal has been cleaned, scraped, eviscerated, washed, and split down the middle, the carcass is usually allowed to hang for an hour or so in a large room open to the outside air, known as the “hanging floor.” This is done with a view to getting rid of a certain amount of the body heat before the carcass is run into the chill rooms, and effects a saving in refrigeration.
The carcasses are next run into “coolers” or chill rooms, and subjected to refrigeration with a view to ridding them entirely of their body heat. The coolers are large rooms fitted with brine pipes and capable of accommodating several hundred carcasses. The temperature of the coolers when the carcasses are run in is about 32° F. When filled, the temperature of the cooler rises to about 45° F., owing to the heat given off from the carcasses. The temperature is then gradually reduced to 28 or 30° F. Hog carcasses are left in the coolers as a rule for forty-eight hours, at the end of which time they are stiff and firm, but not frozen. The temperature of the chill rooms is always carefully watched, thermometer readings being made every few hours and duly recorded. The temperature of the carcasses is always tested when they leave the chill room. In those plants provided with a hanging floor, a certain number of the carcasses are also tested before they are sent to the chill rooms in order to determine the amount of heat lost on the hanging floor.
The carcasses are tested by means of an especially constructed thermometer, known as a “ham thermometer,” which has a pointed metal protector so that it can be thrust into the body of the ham. (See fig. 4.) The ham has been rightly selected as the proper portionof the carcass at which to take the temperature, as it constitutes the largest mass of muscular tissue in the carcass and holds the body heat longer than any other portion. In taking the temperature, the thermometer is thrust deep into the body of the ham so that the point of the thermometer rests alongside or a little behind the upper portion of the femur or middle bone, the latter being used as a guide in introducing the thermometer. A certain number of the carcasses from each cooler are tested in this way as a check on the refrigeration. The inside temperature of the hams when they leave the chill rooms should be about 34° F.
The carcasses are next cut up and the hams trimmed for pickling. In some houses the hams are given an additional chilling of 48 hours after they are cut from the carcasses, but this is not done as a rule, nor does it seem to be necessary.
The hams are now sent to the pickling rooms, or “sweet pickle department,” as this branch of the packing house is designated, and here a certain number are again tested with a thermometer, as described above. This test is carried out by the foreman in charge of the sweet pickle department in order that he may satisfy himself that the hams are properly chilled before they go into the pickle and as an additional check on the refrigeration.
The hams are now ready to be “pumped,” and this pumping, as will be shown later, constitutes an important step in a successful cure. Pumping consists in forcing a strong brine solution containing saltpeter into the muscular tissues of the ham, and is accomplished by means of a large, hollow, fenestrated needle connected by means of a rubber hose with a powerful hand pump. The needle is introduced along the bone, the latter being used as a guide.
In all of the larger packing establishments two general methods of curing hams are followed, the two methods being designated as the “fancy” or “mild cure” and the “regular cure,” the term “cure” being used to designate the curing period. Various trade names are given by the different packing establishments to the hams cured by these methods. In the fancy cure the hams are pumped in the shank only, whereas in the regular cure they are pumped in both body and shank. The same pumping pickle is generally used for the two cures. It is a significant fact that the greater proportion of the “sours” are found among the fancy or mild cure hams. This point will be discussed farther on in connection with some experiments to be described later.
The actual curing is usually carried out in large vats which hold about 1,400 pounds of meat or some hundred hams. The hams are packed in the vats in layers and are entirely covered with the pickling solution or brine. A certain proportion is always observed between the weight of the meat and the amount of the solution. The pickling solution, or “pickle,” as it is termed, is a brine solution containingsaltpeter and sugar. The composition of the pickle varies somewhat with the different packing establishments. The fancy-cure hams are usually cured in a milder pickle, that is, one that contains less salt and saltpeter than the pickle used in the regular cure, although in some packing establishments the same curing pickle is used for the two cures, the only difference being the additional pumping given the regular-cure hams. The pickling rooms, or “cellars,” as they are called, are held at a temperature of 34° to 36° F., and the pickling solutions are always chilled to this temperature before being used.
The hams are allowed to remain in cure for about 60 days, and during this time are “overhauled” several times. Overhauling consists in throwing the hams from the vat in which they are packed into a neighboring empty vat, and then transferring the pickle to the new vat. The pickle is not changed, and the same pickle follows the hams through the entire curing process. The object in overhauling is to stir up the pickle and expose fresh surfaces of the meat to its action.
Hams are also cured in tierces which hold about 300 pounds of meat. In the tierce cure, the hams are packed in the tierces, the latter are then headed up, the pickling solution is next run in through the bunghole, so as to fill the tierce entirely, and a wooden stopper is finally driven into the bunghole. The tierces are rolled back and forth across the floor on dates corresponding to the dates of overhauling in the vat cure. The object of the rolling is to stir up the pickle, and in this way it corresponds to overhauling in the vat cure.