VIIIBERKS COUNTY

Berks County

FORMED March 11, 1752; reduced to present limits, 1811; named for Berkshire, England, where Penn family had large estates; has broad, fertile plains and valleys, intermingled with rough hills and mountains containing mineral wealth in iron. First settlers were Germans, and Friends from England, 1704-12, among whom was George Boone, ancestor of Daniel Boone of Kentucky, who was born here, in Exeter Township, 1735. Mordecai Lincoln, great-great-grandfather of Abraham Lincoln, also lived in Exeter Township; he owned one thousand acres of land, had interest in iron forges; and built a small stone house in 1733, that now forms one end of the present homestead, which remained in the Lincoln family until 1912; the Lincoln men of Berks County were all men of note, several holding public positions; one, Abraham, married Anna Boone; he died, 1806.

In 1729, Conrad Weiser came over with Germans from the Palatinate and settled near Womelsdorf, where he is buried in the family burial ground; marked by boulder; his granddaughter was married to the “Patriarch” Henry Melchoir Muhlenberg; farm and burial ground of Conrad Weiser, purchased by the Burks County Historical Society, is to be maintained as a Memorial Park. The Dutch came in 1730; their descendants still reside on their ancestral estates; they named the river, flowing through the county,Schuylkill (hidden creek); Indian name was Manai-unk. When war was declared between England and France, the French found the Indians eager to join them against the British, and after Braddock’s defeat at Fort Duquesne in 1755, they devastated these peaceful settlers, by fire and slaughter, until 1778, when they were driven beyond the Alleghenies. This region has become famous for wine making; vines are grown on Mount Penn, Neversink, and the Alsace Mountain slopes; over fifty years ago, George L. Reiniger left the fertile vineyards of Wurtemberg and settled here, where the soil, scenery, and environment seemed so much like the fatherland; these vineyards are now used for the cultivation of dahlias.

Reading, county seat; population 107,784; was laid out in 1748 by agents of Richard and Thomas Penn; named for Reading, in Berkshire, England. Courthouse on Penn Common, Fifth and Penn Streets, built, 1762; present building in 1840, on north Sixth Street; colonial with Ionic porch; cupola eighty-four feet above the roof. In the park are equestrian statue of General David McMurtrie Gregg, by H. Augustus Lukeman, New York; the Firemen’s Monument; “The First Defenders”; and Frederick Lauer, all designed and made by P. F. Eisenbrown, Sons & Company, Reading; the bronze statue of President McKinley, reliefs and eagles, was designed by Edward L. A. Pausch, Buffalo, New York. Prison, Penn Street and Perkiomen Avenue, red sandstone, castellated Gothic, built, 1846; architect, John Haviland. A two story building, northeast corner of Fifth Street and Penn Square, was built in 1764 for a tavern; Washington stayed here in

THE JAIL AT READINGJohn C. Haviland, Architect

THE JAIL AT READING

John C. Haviland, Architect

1794, en route to join troops against the Whiskey Rebellion; now Farmers’ Bank; it is marked as the oldest building in town. The Hessian camp ground, southwest of Reading, is also marked.

Trinity Church, most important Lutheran Church in this country, is a fine example of Georgian architecture, northwest corner of Sixth and Washington Streets; was built, 1791. Christ Protestant Episcopal Cathedral, Gothic, brownstone; built in 1864; architect, Potter, New York; has good windows. The Reading Museum and Art Gallery, Eighth and Washington Streets, has a good collection of paintings, representing foreign and American artists, including sixty paintings given by Mrs. William Littleton Savage, as memorial to her parents, Mr. and Mrs. George DeBenneville Keim, and other works of art and natural history; it is open free to the public. The Historical Society of Berks County, 38 North Fourth Street, has a good historical collection. Among the notable artists who have lived in Reading are Christopher H. Shearer, represented in permanent collection at Pennsylvania Academy of the Fine Arts, Philadelphia; Benjamin F. Austrian, noted still-life painter, born here, 1870; James A. Benade, landscape; F. D. Devlan, animal painter and cartoonist; during the Civil War he furnished many cartoons for Frank Leslie’s illustrated newspaper; George Seiling, mural decorator, born in Bavaria, 1818, his paintings are in St. James’ Church, “The Transfiguration,” and Calvary Church, “Christ Bearing the Cross.” Calvary Reformed Church has stone mosaic decoration in chancel by H. Hanley Parker.

Charles Evans Cemetery, acquired by gift in 1864, has Gothic gateway, dark sandstone; made in 1847; architects, Calver & Hall, Philadelphia; the chapel is brownstone, Gothic, built, 1854; architect, John M. Gries, who was a major in the Union Army, killed in battle of “Fair Oaks”; here is the Soldiers and Sailors Monument, with bronze tablets; erected, 1889.

Reading was the resort of many fugitives families from Philadelphia while British were there in the winter of 1776-77, and became the scene of much gayety. General Mifflin, afterwards governor, had his country seat at Cumru, three miles southeast of Reading, now used as the County Almshouse and Hospital buildings. In the different wars of this country Berks County men were among the first to offer their services; the Ringgold Light Artillery, Captain James McKnight, is said to have been the first company that reported at Harrisburg in response to President Lincoln’s Proclamation in 1861, and was one of five Pennsylvania companies to arrive first at Washington in defense of the Capital.

AtKutztown, settled by Germans in 1733, is the Keystone State Normal School, originallyMaxatawnySeminary, but since 1866, the Normal School, enlarged after most improved models of school architecture. Four miles distant isVirginsville; here is a natural curiosity, the “Crystal Cave,” of vast dimensions, with crystal formations in every shape and color; it is lighted by electricity.Boyertown, with two large academies, andBirdsboro, with fine churches and residences, are noted for their iron furnaces.Hamburgis the home of the Berks County State Sanatorium No. 3 for tuberculosis; Spanish architecture. Berks County has several picturesque old bridges, the oldest, with one arch, stone, built in 1822, spans the Wyomissing Creek at its mouth, opposite Reading. Thirteen other stone arch bridges, the longest, over Maiden Creek, four arches, built in 1854; and twenty-five wooden covered bridges, are decided artistic assets.

Historic iron furnaces in Berks County are atBirdsboro, Hay Creek Forges, built, 1740, by William Bird on land obtained by warrant and survey; he also erected Hopewell Furnace in 1759, and the Berkshire Furnace in Heidelberg about 1760; his son, Mark Bird, inherited the property, and built Spring Forge and Gibraltar Forge; in 1796, John Louis Barde became the owner; his daughter was married to Matthew Brooke, who subsequently purchased the property, which has become an extensive iron works.Colebrookdale, famous as the seat of the first blast furnace in Pennsylvania, was on Iron Stone Creek, named for the Colebrookdale furnace, in Shropshire, England; it was founded by Thomas Rutter and Thomas Potts in 1720: in 1724, the output was forty-eight tons of pig iron per annum, each ton valued at £5; this was the first furnace to cast pots, kettles, and other hollow ware by the use of sand moulds; it had a long and prosperous career.Hopewell, a cold blast, one stack furnace, employed one hundred and seventy men and boys, the iron ore was obtained from the Hopewell mine, about two miles away, water from Hopewell Creek formed the motive power; a dam was constructed a quarter of a mile above the furnace andconveyed by a race to the big water wheel; the property covered 5163 acres, chiefly woodland; stoves were cast here with much detailed design, marked with the name of Bird; also cannon for the Revolutionary Army; Hopewell furnace, although idle for many years, is not dismantled, and the village street of iron-workers’ homes is much the same as it must have been in early times.

Oley Forge, south of the little hamlet called Oley Churches, and about ten miles from the confluence of the Manatawny and Schuylkill rivers, was organized by John Ross in 1744, and was in active operation for one hundred and twenty years. In 1760, a valuable deposit of iron ore was found in Oley Township, and in 1765 Dietrich Welcker erectedOley Furnace, near the mountain; it was owned by General Daniel Udree during the Revolution.Pine Forgewas among the earliest of those erected in the Manatawny district, on land conveyed by William Penn to Thomas Rutter; the original patent is in possession of the Rutter family. There is every evidence that the group of early forges and furnaces had a general interchange in their business affairs, as the owners of the plants were almost identical; William Bird, in 1733, was cutting wood for the use of Pine Forge, at two shillings ninepence a day. Ten years later we find him renting one-eighth of Pine Forge at £40 per annum.

The management of the old forges was patriarchal in its character; grist mill, sawmill, and the village store were all under control of the company, and the records of the old forges and furnaces are filled with human interests of an earlier day.Windsor Furnace,

TRINITY CHURCH, READING, BUILT IN 1791

on Furnace Creek, under shadow of the Blue Mountains, besides making pig iron and the usual hollow ware cast in colonial times, was noted for remarkable artistic work under the management of Jones, Keim & Co.; one casting, being a copy of Leonardo da Vinci’s “Last Supper,” is now in possession of the Philadelphia Exchange.

Bedford County

FORMED March 9, 1771; named by Governor John Penn, in 1776, from fort of this name in the county. Is widely known for its mineral springs. When first established it embraced entire southwest part of the province. Mean altitude 1100-1200 feet above sea level; in northwest at Blue Knob, near Blair and Cambria County line, is highest elevation in Pennsylvania, 3136 feet above sea level. Surface is broken by parallel ranges of mountains, with narrow, beautiful valleys, in a high state of cultivation. Chief industries are farming, stock raising, and apple growing. It is said that the most important fields of bituminous coal in Pennsylvania are largely in the northeast of this County known as “The Broad Top Coal Fields.” Population Scotch-Irish, German, and English.

First permanent settlement was made in 1750, by a Scotchman named Ray (McRay), an Indian trader, near present site of Bedford, then Raystown. In 1755, Colonel James Burd was appointed by the province to construct the first wagon road, from Fort Louden, Franklin County, to join Braddock’s road near Turkey Foot, Somerset County, passing through Raystown (Bedford), practically identical with the Chambersburg and Bedford Turnpike, now Lincoln Highway. On western border where this road crosses main range of the Alleghenies, at a point two-thirds of the ascent, is a view unsurpassed in the picturesquecharm of the landscape, stretching far and wide. The highway follows the main course of the Raystown Branch of the Juniata, crossing this stream at least four times; bridges are iron or old wooden ones.

The fort at Raystown was constructed in 1758 by the vanguard of General Forbes’ army; it embraced about seven thousand square yards, occupying the bluff now bounded on the east by Richard Street; south, Pitt Street (Lincoln Highway); west, Juliana Street; north, the Raystone River; it was the most prominent military stronghold in the central part of the province, and the principal rendezvous of troops forming the right wing of General John Forbes’ army in his expedition against Fort Duquesne, 5850 men, besides wagoners; largest single contingent was 2700 Pennsylvania provincials under Colonel Bouquet, who had chief charge of entire force, until General Forbes arrived; the 1600 Virginians were under command of Colonel George Washington and Colonel William Byrd. In 1759, General John Stanwix, then in command of the garrison, had the name changed to Fort Bedford, in honor of the Duke of Bedford; now no trace of the fortification remains.

In 1794, Bedford became the headquarters of General Henry Lee, Governor of Virginia, who was commander in chief of the army of 13,000 troops raised to quell the Whiskey Insurrection; President Washington, after reviewing the troops at Carlisle and Cumberland, came to Bedford and made his headquarters in a stone house on Pitt Street, house still standing.

Bedford, county seat, population 2330; laid out, 1766, by Surveyor General John Lukens, with a commodious square, in the most convenient place. Courthouse erected, 1828, colonial with clock tower, architect and contractor, Solomon Filler, faces the square. Opposite is the United States Post Office, built, 1915, Indiana limestone, classic, Doric columns, architect, Oscar Wenderoth; also facing the square are the Presbyterian Church, colonial, built, 1828, on site of an earlier one built in 1810; and the Lutheran Church, fine two-story building and parsonage. The Soldiers’ Monument in honor of Bedford County volunteers in Civil War occupies center of square. Handsome memorial colonial gateway forms entrance to Bedford Cemetery, stone, with bronze tablets.

The therapeutic qualities of the Mineral Springs are believed to be second to none anywhere in the world, and justly entitle Bedford to the name of the Carlsbad of America; one and one-half miles south of the borough, within an area of a few square rods, several varieties of water are to be found; most famous is the Magnesia Spring, efficacious in disturbances of the digestive organs; others are known as the Black Sulphur, Limestone, Chalybeate, and Sweet Water Spring. Colonial Hotel has a colonnade of Doric columns, twenty feet high, made of native solid trees; the links for the Scottish game of golf are on a place earlier named Caledonia. The Bedford Chalybeate Springs, about one mile northeast of the town, contain waters showing analysis of carbonate of calcium, magnesium, iron and sodium, and sulphite of calcium. Ten miles southwest of Bedford are the White Sulphur Springs in Milliken’s Cave, second largest health resort in the country; waters are unexcelled in health-restoring properties.

Northumberland County

FORMED March 21, 1772; named for the Duke of Northumberland. Mountainous, with great amount of fertile land, watered by the Susquehanna River and tributaries. Chief industry is coal mining.

County seat,Sunbury, population 15,721, on site of a populous Indian village named Shamokin, occupied variously by different tribes; in 1745, the town contained about fifty houses and three hundred inhabitants; the Six Nations used it as a tarrying place for their war parties against the Catawbas of the South.

It was the residence of Shikellimy, an Oneida chief sent by the Iroquois, who claimed the land by conquest in 1728, he was the Indian diplomat, and land agent of the three great tribes of Pennsylvania, New York and Delaware, with supervision of the Delaware, Shawnee, and other tribes. He also had to look after all matters relating to the settlement and purchase of Indian lands by the whites. In 1742, Count Zinzendorf, with Conrad Weiser and others, came to Shamokin; Shikellimy gave them a hearty welcome, and promised to forward their design of having a Moravian Mission there; it was established in 1747 by Martin Mack and his wife; Bishop Cammerhoff and Zeisberger visited the town the next year. In 1748 Shikellimy died; “the Chief who never swerved in his friendship to the Province”; he had been baptized in the Christian faith in Bethlehem, and was buried just outside of what was later Fort Augusta; James Logan, his second son, was perhaps the best known of his children; made so by the murder of his family, near the mouth of Yellow Creek, on the Ohio, in 1774, and the famous “Logan’s Lament.” A large boulder, with memorial tablet, marks Shikellimy’s grave; it was placed, in 1915, by the Fort Augusta Chapter, Daughters of the American Revolution, and the Pennsylvania Historical Commission; the boulder is of very close grained rock, of the kind used by the Indians for their hardest and strongest implements; it was quarried near Wapwallopen, about forty miles above Sunbury; this rock boulder, from our local mountains, will resist the forces of nature for centuries to come, as it has done for ages past.

Shamokin (Sunbury) was also the residence of Allummapees, or Sassounan, the head chief of the Delawares, so that this place was, in every sense of the term, the Indian capital of Pennsylvania from 1728-48, and was deserted in 1749 on account of a severe famine along the Susquehanna. At the north of Sunbury, along the river drive, is site of Fort Augusta, built in 1756 by Colonel Miles and Captain Trump of the Second Pennsylvania Battalion; it was the frontier, after Forts Muncy, Brady, and Freeland were destroyed in 1779 by British and Indians; the powder magazine, and well, built of brick, are still intact and in good preservation. This was said to have been the most strategic point in the whole section; a monument on either side of the roadway marks the place. On the site of the fortifications is a brick mansion; within are many relics taken from the fort, and draft of original plan.Visitors are welcome. Site of Fort Freeland on north side of Warrior’s Run, four miles east of Watsontown; it was a large stockaded log house, built in 1773, enclosing about half an acre.

Sunburywas laid out 1772, by William Maclay and John Lukens, by order of Governor Richard Penn, who named it. William Maclay, first United States Senator from Pennsylvania, built his stone residence, still standing, on the river bank in northwest part of town; the city plan is like that of Philadelphia, and many of the streets have the Philadelphia names; Market Street faces a public square between Second and Third Streets, known as Cameron Park, in which is the Civil War Soldiers’ Monument, granite shaft surmounted by a life-size, granite statue of Colonel James Cameron, who organized a regiment from this county. Courthouse, Second Street, facing west side of Cameron Park, originally built in 1866; Georgian; brick with Hummelstown brownstone trimmings; was remodeled in the same style in 1915 and enlarged, in the rear, with a cross wing, giving two fine courtrooms, last architect, William H. Lee, Shamokin. The prison, one block away, at the corner of Second and Arch Streets, medieval castle style, built, 1878, dark gray stone, with stone wall twenty feet high, surrounding the whole structure, has wing used as a penitentiary, where prisoners serve out their sentences; they weave carpets and make coarse hosiery.

Northumberland, settled, 1772, population 4061. Dr. Joseph Priestly, chemist and philosopher, was its most noted inhabitant; he emigrated here in 1794, to be with his son, and died, 1804; in 1874, Scientistsof America celebrated here the centennial of Dr. Priestly’s discovery of oxygen; his house, built, 1796, is still standing, in excellent preservation; a portrait of Dr. Priestly, by Gilbert Stuart, is owned by Miss Priestly. The Academy was erected in 1803, mainly through the efforts of Dr. Priestly; Rev. Isaac Greer, first principal.

FORMED February 26, 1773, named for the County of Westmoreland, England. Chief industries, coal, coke, gas, and manufactories. Ruins of old furnaces abound in this section, relics of the iron industry about 1800. The Lincoln Highway crosses this county, formerly the Philadelphia and Pittsburgh Turnpike, entering nearLaughlinstown, at the base of Laurel Ridge, elevation, 2700 feet; here is a museum of relics, shown in an old tavern of stage coach days, built about 1800, where Daniel Webster is said to have stopped, and Zachary Taylor, in 1848, held a reception. Three miles west isLigonier, on site of a fort built by Captain Burd under the direction of Colonel Bouquet, a Swiss; named for Sir John Ligonier, a famous English general; all traces of the fort have been obliterated; a descriptive tablet, erected by the Daughters of the American Revolution, is in the town square. In the High School Library is an engraving, from a painting by Sir Joshua Reynolds, of Sir John Ligonier. Near by is Idlewild Park.

At Bushy Run the Indians made a furious attack on Bouquet and his company but were utterly routed and they retreated beyond the Ohio; Bouquet then marched to Fort Pitt and recovered it in 1763; next year he led an expedition beyond the Ohio River, the Indians sued for peace, and he compelled them to

Westmoreland County

bring all their captives to Fort Pitt. One and a half miles west of Ligonier is residence of General Arthur St. Clair, from 1767-72, “The Hermitage,” rebuilt, excepting one room, which is well cared for; there is a well-grounded tradition that Washington sent from Mount Vernon two expert carpenters, whose quaintly designed woodwork, mantelpiece and wainscoting doubtless saved this room from destruction; the house was marked in 1913, by the Phœbe Bayard Chapter, Daughters of the American Revolution, of Greensburg.

Four miles west of Latrobe is St. Vincent’s Monastery and Church, dedicated in 1905, brick and stone buildings, with highly decorated interiors, containing the main altar, onyx, set with jewels, and fine wood carvings from Italy. North, on William Penn Highway, isNew Alexandria; here, owned by Elizabeth Craig, is a Rattlesnake Flag, in use before the Revolution, made of crimson silk; in the upper left-hand corner is the English coat of arms; on the field is a rattlesnake with thirteen rattles, indicating the thirteen colonies; underneath are the words “Don’t tread on me,” J. P. F. B. W. C. P.—for John Proctor’s First Battalion Westmoreland County, Pennsylvania; by whom it was adopted.

Greensburg, population 15,033, formerly called Newtown, settled in 1782; made county seat in 1786, and name changed in honor of General Nathaniel Greene, who had died at Savannah, Georgia, that same year; many of the Westmoreland County soldiers served under him in the Revolution. It now has its fourth courthouse, a dignified building, French Renaissance, white granite, the façade surmounted bya well-proportioned dome, dedicated, 1908; architect, William Kauffman; contains portraits of judges and lawyers. Among the churches of good architecture are the United Brethren, classic, Doric, architects, Winkler & Macdonald; and the First Presbyterian on South Main Street, Gothic, stone, architects, Cram & Ferguson. Other notable buildings are the Post Office, classic, Ionic; the Y. M. C. A., an adaptation of Colonial, and St. Joseph’s Academy, with beautiful grounds, overlooking the whole town.

In St. Clair Cemetery is a monument to General Arthur St. Clair, who is buried here. About five miles distant is Oakford Park. Fells Church in Rostravor Township southwest is said to be the second Methodist Church west of the Alleghenies, built of logs in 1792; present stone building in 1834; in the burial ground are many pioneers of western Pennsylvania.

FORMED March 28, 1781; named for President Washington; originally part of Augusta County, Virginia. First court held here was two miles west on the Gabby farm, marked by granite block; inscription, “On this spot, was held in 1776, the County Court, for the District of West Augusta, Virginia; the first Court held by English-speaking people, west of the Monongahela River. Erected by Washington County Historical Society 1905.” Chief industries, between 1860-80 raising fine stock and wool growing; in 1884, oil was discovered and for ten or fifteen years this county became an oil center, with some of the largest wells; now coal is being shipped all over the country from seemingly boundless veins.

Washington, county seat, laid out in 1782, population 21,480. Courthouse, built in 1900, on Main Street, Italian Renaissance, Columbia sandstone and granite; architect, F. J. Osterling; contains portraits, also collections made by the Washington County Historical Society; ground given by David Hoge of Virginia, who owned large tracts of land where the town now is. Town Hall, corner-stone laid by General U. S. Grant, in 1869; contains Public Library, gift of Dr. Francis J. Le Moyne. Washington and Jefferson College, combined in 1870, from Washington College founded 1787, and Jefferson College founded in Canonsburg, 1802; both flourished until the Civil

Washington County

War, when many students enlisted and financial depression followed; located one square east of the courthouse; oldest part, two story, stone, erected, 1793; main building, brick, 1836, enlarged, 1875, houses the Y. M. C. A., the museum, classrooms, and laboratories; several other fine buildings of brick and stone are on the campus; chapel contains portraits.

Washington Seminary, recognized as one of the oldest and best institutions for women students, one square south of college, was built, 1836. Bradford House, first stone house in this locality, was built, 1794, by Colonel William Bradford, a leader in the Whiskey Insurrection. Residence, Dr. Francis Julius Le Moyne, native of this town, built in 1812, East Maiden Street near Main, is one of the landmarks; he was a brilliant scholar, abolitionist, and promoter of the underground railroad; he built the first crematory in America, located south of Washington, first cremation, Baron de Palen, in 1876. Dr. Le Moyne was cremated, 1879. The Presbyterian Church leads, with the other principal denominations represented, also Jewish Synagogue. West from Washington, the Campbell family founded the Disciples, or Christian Church, on Buffalo Creek.

The Cumberland Road, built, 1811, brought an almost unbroken stream of home seekers through this town, en route to the west; bridges and culverts built about the same time still stand, models of solid masonry and good engineering, one is between Washington and Claysville, town named for Henry Clay, who had an interest in the road and frequently came here.

Canonsburg, laid out, 1787, by Colonel John Canon,population 10,632, a portion of his first grist mill is on original location near Chartier’s Creek. Jefferson College chartered, 1802; oldest building erected in 1830; on North Central Avenue, highest ground in town; was outgrowth of Dr. John McMillan’s Log Cabin Latin School from 1782; first classical school west of the Allegheny Mountains, his cabin stands on the campus, marked by a bronze tablet, placed by the Phi Gamma Delta Fraternity, custodians; having been removed from its original site, two miles south of town; Franklin Hall, converted into a Memorial Hall in 1900, contains portraits of college presidents and professors between 1802-69, also collections of old books from several early libraries and literary societies; may be seen by applying to any of the Memorial Hall Committee. Stone edifice, opposite campus, built by John Roberts, Esq, who conducted a school and kept post office here in 1801, parts of walls are said to be part of stone Academy Building, erected by Colonel Canon, for which he donated the ground in 1790; it was merged with the Log Cabin School to form Jefferson College.

Two-story building at northeast corner of Central Avenue and Pike Street, now grocery and hardware store, was site of the Joshua Emery’s Hotel; here President James Monroe was entertained in 1817. On east side of North Central Avenue, between Pike and College Streets, vacant lot, site of Black Horse Tavern, notable as the resort of men who rifled the mail sacks, when letters supposed to contain evidence against violaters of the excise laws were stolen,en routeto Philadelphia from Pittsburgh, 1794. Residence 62-68East Pike Street, built by Dr. Jonathan Letherman, before 1830, here Dr. John McMillan died in 1833; the flower garden, with brick wall, was laid out by a landscape gardener brought from Philadelphia by Dr. Letherman, original designs still retained. The Hutchinson house, north side, West College Street, corner of Hutchinson Avenue and adjacent lots, once the Hutchinson farm, was where the “Whiskey boys” encamped in 1794, here also “musters” were held before the Civil War. Chartiers Presbyterian (Hill) Church and burial ground, one mile south of Canonsburg, is where Dr. John McMillan began his pastorate in 1775, and was buried; here, Woodrow Wilson’s father was also a former pastor; this site became a rendezvous for the Whiskey Insurrectionists in 1794.

A natural park of seventy acres, within east side of the borough, acquired by gift, is a beautiful breathing spot for the whole community. About one mile northeast of Canonsburg, at Morganza, is the Western Pennsylvania Industrial School; the Morgan Lands, eleven hundred acres, was the home of General George Morgan, Indian agent in Pittsburgh 1775-79; a portion of his residence is still standing, about midway between Morganza and Pollock; here he was visited by Aaron Burr in 1806. General Morgan and his two sons were summoned to Richmond, as witnesses, when Burr was tried for treason.

Monongahela, an important town, first called Parkinson’s Ferry, then Williamsport; the men here took an active part in the Whiskey Insurrection, 1794. It furnished its quota of soldiers, known as the Williamsport Rangers, for the War of 1812. Monument toColonel Hawkins, and to the Philippine veterans. James Gillespie Blaine was born at West Brownsville in 1830.Amity, southern part of Washington, near county line, was the residence of Solomon Spalding, born in Connecticut, minister of the Congregational Church; here he wrote the “Manuscript Found,” or Book of Mormon; he was not a robust man, and spent many hours writing this romance, with no idea of founding a religious sect; he would read his book in the evenings to the men gathered in the general store; died, 1816, age fifty-five, grave marked by large granite block.

ORGANIZED September 26, 1783; named in honor of the Marquis de Lafayette; occupied prominent place in Indian, Revolutionary, and later wars. On Jacobs Creek, a mile and a half above the point where it empties into the Youghiogheny River, stands the ruins of the first furnace for the production of pig iron, west of the Allegheny Mountains; the furnace was put in blast November, 1790, and was known as the Alliance Iron Works, operated by William Turnbull and Peter Marmie of Philadelphia; it continued in blast until 1802 using the native ores from the neighboring hillsides, and charcoal burned from the surrounding forests; in 1792 the company cast four hundred six-pound shot for the Fort Pitt Arsenal at Pittsburgh. Coal mining and coke are now the chief industries. Connellsville coke is known throughout the industrial world.

Aboriginal inhabitants were the Shawnee Indians, who made various earthworks and burial mounds, along the Monongahela and Youghiogheny Rivers before their migration southward; it was part of the “Hunting Grounds” of the Iroquois Confederation; the “Indian Title” was extinguished by treaty at Fort Stanwix, 1768.

In 1749 Nemacolin, a Delaware Indian, guided Colonel Thomas Cresap from Wills Creek, Cumberland, Maryland, to the mouth of Dunlap’s Creek, where

Fayette County

Fort Burd was erected in 1759, on site of “Redstone Old Fort,” an Indian earthwork, now Brownsville; this was called Nemacolin’s trail, and was the best course for the Ohio Company to reach the Ohio River. It was followed by Washington, with Christopher Gist, to the French forts in 1753, the first actual step here, in conflict with France. During the “French and Indian War” Fayette County was the scene of some of the most thrilling events in American history. In 1745 Washington’s expedition to gain possession of the Ohio Valley followed this trail to drive the French from “The Forks” (Pittsburgh); he advanced to Gist’s Plantation at Mount Braddock, then retreated to The Great Meadows, Fort Necessity, marked by tablet at Mount Washington, where he was defeated by the French under M. Coulon de Villers; previous to this, Washington had met a detachment of French soldiers under M. Coulon de Jumonville, in which Jumonville was killed, grave marked by tablet; first blood shed in French and Indian War.

In 1755 Major General Edward Braddock’s expedition against Fort Duquesne followed Nemacolin’s trail to Mount Braddock, thence over Catawba trail, which enters Fayette County at mouth of Dunkards Creek; northward through Uniontown, crossing the Youghiogheny (Stewarts Crossing) at Connellsville, on through Mount Pleasant to Westmoreland County, Hunkers, Circleville, to McKeesport; crossing the Monongahela, then recrossing below at mouth of Turtle Creek. General Braddock, mortally wounded in the battle of the Monongahela, was carried back over the road he had opened to a point on the Cumberland Road, National Pike, where he died and was buried; Washington read the Episcopal burial service over him; grave marked by monument, erected by officers of his old regiment, the “Coldstream Guards of England.” Braddock’s Road became the main highway for settlers of Southwest Pennsylvania and Kentucky; the entire course is full of historic interest; sites of encampments, blockhouses and Indian forts; some are marked.

Uniontown, county seat, formed, 1776; population 15,692. Courthouse, Italian Renaissance; stone; architects, E. M. Butz and William Kauffman, Pittsburgh. Presbyterian Church has fine Tiffany windows. Mr. James Hadden, the historian of Fayette County, has a life-size bust of Washington, cut by himself from the wood of a wild cherry tree, which grew within the lines of Fort Necessity, in 1784. Washington owned the land on which the tree stood. Two miles south is Fort Gaddis, only frontier or settlers’ fort now standing in Fayette County, marked by tablet in 1908; there were sixteen such forts in this county, built of heavy logs, making durable houses for the frontiersmen, and safe retreat for neighboring settlers.

Connellsville; population 13,804. On grounds of the Carnegie Free Library is a bronze statue of Colonel William Crawford, pioneer and patriot, who, in 1765, built the first cabin home within limits of Connellsville; killed by Indians in 1782; sculptor, Charles S. Kilpatrick; tablet on base placed by Pennsylvania Historical Commission. Trinity Lutheran Church, Italian Renaissance; native white sandstone, trimmed with Indiana limestone; built, 1911; containscopy of Bougereau’s “Resurrection.” In the tower is chime of twelve bells. Architect, J. C. Fulton, Uniontown.

Lafayette was entertained, in 1825, at “Friendship Hill” near New Geneva, the home of Albert Gallatin, member of Congress, Minister Plenipotentiary from the United States to two courts of Europe, signer of the Treaty of Ghent, Secretary of the Treasury in Jefferson’s and Madison’s administrations; the house was built, 1789, enlarged, 1882, and with the estate of seven hundred acres, is still of great beauty; Albert Gallatin’s library remains just as he left it, on a high eminence, overlooking the Monongahela River, on the edge of a precipice three hundred feet above the river, the view is said to be similar to that from Heidelberg Castle; the main entrance is near the old Morgantown Road, an historic highway.

Franklin County

FORMED September 9, 1784; named for Benjamin Franklin, whose fame was then world-wide. Earliest settlers Scotch-Irish, later Germans. Chief industry agriculture, the land east is limestone and very fertile; west, slate lands prevail, abounding in pure streams and rich meadows; the Conococheague and Conodoquinet Creeks drain the central part of the county, they are crossed by many stone arch bridges of graceful architecture, the most notable is at Hiester’s Mill, three arches. The principal road, now part of the Lincoln Highway, enters the county near the historic Thaddeus Stevens Iron Works, built, 1837, at Caledonia, which comprised about 20,000 acres, now in State Forestry Reservation, and with the Mont Alto tract, makes a total of about 40,000 acres; the mill and machinery were entirely destroyed, in 1863, by order of General Early, on account of Stevens’ well-known activity as an abolitionist; this road was route of greater part of Lee’s Army to and from the battlefield of Gettysburg to Chambersburg; site of encampment before the battle, a little beyond the hospital, east from Chambersburg. Other roads leading west, of historic interest, are the Two Mountain, and the Path Valley, formerly Indian trails.

County seat,Chambersburg, settled, 1764, population 13,171. In Centre Square is a boulder with tablet commemorating the burning of Chambersburg by Confederate Cavalry, July 1, 1864. Facing the square are the brick courthouse, Southern colonial with fluted columns, cupola and clock, contains portraits of judges; and the Central Presbyterian Church, with Tiffany windows. Near are, Miller’s drug store on site of Jack Tavern, where the first court was held in 1784, large mortar in front was made from one of the pillars of the burned courthouse. United States Post Office, Main and King Streets, built, 1912, semi-classic, light colonial brick with gray stone facing. Masonic temple, built, 1823, saved by Confederate Masons when the town was burned. Zion Reformed Church, built, 1812, exterior unchanged, particularly good lines in steeple, has Tiffany windows. On King Street stands the house John Brown occupied, second from Union Baptist Church; Nicklas store, on Main Street near Queen, is site of old tavern where President Washington and Alexander Hamilton spent the night,en routeto quell the Whiskey Insurrection in 1794; Market House, Second and Queen Streets, built, 1830, brick, colonial, with clock tower.

Wilson Collegecomprises seven buildings, including Thompson Memorial Hall, built, 1904, modified Gothic, with auditorium and fine organ, architect, George C. Baum, Philadelphia. Falling Spring Presbyterian Church and Chapel, organized, 1736, services first held in Benjamin Chamber’s sawmill, present church built, 1803, chapel, 1873, native stone, has Tiffany memorial windows to Judge and Mrs. Alexander Thomson, parents of Frank Thomson, Esq. Rocky Spring Presbyterian Church, four miles northwest from Chambersburg, built, 1794 by the Scotch-Irish, colonial, with high, straight-backed pews, and original old high pulpit, with sounding board, pewter Communion service from England and ten-plate stoves. Dr. McIntosh preached here; has an interesting old graveyard, keys kept at adjoining farmhouse.

The “Mont Alto Park,” formerly a famous picnic ground, now in charge of State Forestry Commission, in the South Mountain, in old maps named “The Valley of a Thousand Springs,” contains an old Protestant Episcopal Church, near which is a native boulder, with granite tablet, marking the place where Captain John E. Cook, of John Brown’s Army of Liberation, was captured and disarmed, October 25, 1859, erected by the Kittochtinny Historical Society, 1909. TheState Forest Academyis here, where the state educates its foresters, free of all cost; in 1900, the Bureau of Forestry had grown to the point where it should be raised to the rank of a department, of which the chief should be a member of the Governor’s cabinet; there was strenuous opposition, but owing to the flood of letters received by members of the Legislature, from the women of the State Federated Clubs, the change was made, and Pennsylvania takes a commanding place in the Forestry and Conservation movement. TheWhite Pine, State Sanatorium, No. 1, free for consumptives, is also here, one of the largest in the world. South isWaynesboro; good roads and notably fine scenery in this section.

Greencastle, birthplace of Robert McClelland in 1807, see Honor Roll; directly north, on State Road, is monument, to mark where Corporal William H. Rhil fell, first soldier killed on Northern soil in Civil War.

Mercersburg, settled between 1730-35, population 1663; named for General Hugh Mercer, who was killed in the Battle of Princeton. Mercersburg Academy, Main Hall, built, 1833, used as hospital for wounded soldiers, on retreat from Gettysburg, is a notable example of Southern colonial architecture, with fine pillars and surmounted by a cupola; the ’88 Dormitory, given largely by class of 1888 of Princeton University, is Tudor Gothic, brick and white stone; Kiel Hall, the refectory, interior, baronial Gothic with frescoes and hangings by Tiffany; over mantel, in wood, carved by John J. Maene, is “The Boar Hunt” from design by A. Stirling Calder; notable collection of University shields in glass and wood; mosaic armorial design in hearth; Laucks Hall, Tudor Gothic, has mural painting in trophy room, “The Victor,” representing a Mercersburg boy being crowned victor in athletic skill, artist, Edward Howland Blashfield, also collection of portraits of distinguished men, including President James Buchanan, Thomas A. Scott, and W. M. Irvine, by William Merritt Chase; Dr. E. E. Highbee, by Carroll Beckwith; and Dr. Thomas Apple by John W. Alexander; the new gymnasium, architect, Frank Miles Day, has stained glass by Tiffany.

Historic houses on Main Street, one in which Harriet Lane Johnston was born, built, 1788, by Colonel Robert Parker, friend of Lafayette, has interesting interior woodwork; and residence of Dr. William Magaw, who dressed Lafayette’s wounds after the battle of Brandywine, grounds now in campus of Academy. Near Mercersburg, Irwinton Mills, a picturesque spot on the west branch of the Conococheague,

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