[24]CHAPTER IIIThe Small Compound SaucesRemarks.—In order that the classification of the small sauces should be clear and methodical, I divide them into three parts.The first part includes the small brown sauces; the second deals with the small white sauces and those suited to this part of the classification; while the third is concerned with the English sauces.The Small Brown Sauces31—SAUCE BIGARRADEThis sauce is principally used to accompany braised andpoëledducklings. In the first case, the duckling’s braising stock, being thickened, constitutes a sauce. In the second case, the stock is clear, and the procedure in both cases is asfollows:—1. After having strained the braising sauce, completely remove its grease, and reduce it until it is very dense. Strain it once more through muslin, twisting the latter; then, in order to bring the sauce to its normal consistence, add the juice of six oranges and one lemon per quart of sauce. Finish with a small piece of lemon and orange rind cut regularly and finely,Julienne-fashion, and scalded for five minutes.2. Strain thepoëlingstock, for ducklings or wild ducks, through linen; entirely remove the grease, and add four pieces of caramel sugar dissolved in one tablespoonful of vinegar per one-half point of stock, the juice of the oranges and the lemon and theJulienneof rinds, as for the braised-ducklings sauce indicated above.[25]32—SAUCE BORDELAISEPut into a vegetable-pan two oz. of very finely minced shallots, one-half pint of good red wine, a pinch of mignonette pepper, and bits of thyme and bay. Reduce the wine by three-quarters, and add one-half pint of half-glaze. Keep the sauce simmering for half an hour; despumate it from time to time, and strain it through linen or a sieve. When dishing it up, finish it with two tablespoonfuls of dissolved meat glaze, a few drops of lemon-juice, and four oz. of beef-marrow, cut into slices or cubes and poached in slightly salted boiling water. This sauce may be buttered to the extent of about three oz. per pint, which makes it smoother, but less clear. It is especially suitable for grilled butcher’s meat.33—CHASSEUR SAUCE (Escoffier’s Method)Peel and mince six medium-sized mushrooms. Heat one-half oz. of butter and as much olive oil in a vegetable-pan; put in the mushrooms, and fry the latter quickly until they are slightly browned. Now add a coffeespoonful of minced shallots, and immediately remove half the butter; pour one-half pint of white wine and one glass of liqueur brandy into the stewpan; reduce this liquid to half, and finish the sauce with: one-half pint of half-glaze, one-quarter pint of tomato sauce, and one tablespoonful of meat-glaze. Set to boil for five minutes more, and complete with a teaspoonful of chopped parsley.34—BROWN CHAUD-FROID SAUCEPut one quart of half-glaze into a sauté-pan with one-fifth pint of truffle essence. Put the pan on an open fire, and reduce its contents; while making same add to the sauce, in small quantities at a time, one and one-half pints of jelly.The degree of reduction in this sauce is a good third, but, to be quite certain, a test of its consistence may be made by allowing it to cool a little. After the reduction, carefully taste, and rectify the seasoning if necessary; mix a little Madeira or Port with the sauce, away from the fire, and strain through muslin or, preferably, through a Venetian-hair sieve. Stir the sauce now and then while it cools, until it is sufficiently liquid, and at the same time consistent enough, to coat immersed solids evenly with a film of sauce. Its use will be explained among the formulæ of the different kinds of Chaud-froids.[26]35—VARIETIES OF THE CHAUD-FROID SAUCEFor Ducks.—Prepare the sauce as above, adding to it (for the prescribed quantity) one-half pint of duckfumetobtained from the carcases and remains of roast duckling, and finish it, away from the fire, with the juice of four oranges and a heaped tablespoonful of orange rind, cut finely,Julienne-fashion, and scalded for five minutes.For Feathered Game.—Treat the Chaud-Froid sauce as indicated in No.34, adding one-half pint of thefumetof the game constituting the dish in order to lend it that game’s characteristic taste. Observe the same precaution for the cooling.For Fish.—Proceed as in No.34, but (1) substitute the Espagnole of fish for the half glaze; (2) intensify the first Espagnole with one-half pint of very clear fish essence; (3) use Lenten jelly instead of meat jelly.Remarks upon the Use of Chaud-Froid Sauces.—The chaud-froid sauce may be prepared beforehand, and when it is wanted it need only be gently melted without heating it too much. It ought simply to be made sufficiently liquid to give a good coating to substances immersed in it.36—DEVILLED SAUCEPut in a vegetable pan two oz. of sliced shallots and one-third pint of white wine. Reduce the latter to two-thirds, add one-half pint of half-glaze, reduce to two-thirds, season strongly with cayenne pepper, and strain through muslin. This sauce may be served with grilled fowls or pigeons. It also forms an excellent accompaniment to re-dished meat which needs a spicy sauce.37—“ESCOFFIER” DEVILLED SAUCEThis sauce, which may be bought ready-made, is admirably fitted to accompany grilled fish and grills in general. In order to make it ready, all that is needed is to add its own volume of fresh butter to it, the latter being previously well softened so as to ensure its perfect mixture with the sauce.38—GENEVOISE SAUCEHeat two oz. of butter in a stewpan; insert one lb. of Mirepoix (No.228) without bacon. Slightly brown, add two lbs. of head of salmon and remains or bones of fish, and stew with lid on for twenty minutes. Let the stewpan lean slightly to[27]one side, so that the butter may be drained; moisten with one bottle of excellent red wine; reduce the latter by half; add one pint of Lenten Espagnole, and allow to cook gently for half an hour.Rub the sauce through a sieve, pressing it so as to extract all the essence. Let it rest awhile; carefully remove the fat which has risen to the surface, and add one liqueur-glass of burnt brandy, one-half pint of red wine, and as much fishfumet. Boil again, then move stewpan to the side of fire to despumate for one and one-half hours. Frequently remove what the ebullition causes to rise to the surface, this second period of cooking being only to ensure the purification of the sauce. If the ebullition has been well effected, the sauce should reach the proper degree of reduction and despumation at the same moment of time. It is then strained through muslin or tammy, and it is finished at the last minute with a few drops of anchovy essence and four oz. of butter per quart of sauce.N.B.—The Genevoise Sauce, like all red-wine sauces, may be served without being buttered. It is thus clearer and more sightly in colour, but the addition of butter in small quantities makes it mellower and more palatable.38a—REMARKS ON RED-WINE SAUCESIn the general repertory of cooking we also have, in the way of red-wine sauces, the “Bourguignonne,” “Matelote,” and “Red-Wine” sauces, which are closely allied to the “Genevoise,” and only differ from it in details of procedure.The “Bourguignonne” Sauce is composed of red-wine accompanied by aromatics, and reduced by half. In accordance with ordinary principles, it is thickened by means of three oz. ofmaniedbutter per quart of reduced wine. This sauce is buttered with four oz. of butter per quart, and is especially regarded as a domestic preparation for poached, moulded, and hard-boiled eggs.“Matelote” Sauce is made from Court-bouillon, with red wine which has been used for cooking fish. This Court-bouillon, with the mushroom parings added, is reduced by two-thirds, and is thickened with one pint of Lenten Espagnole per pint of the reduced Court-bouillon.This sauce should be reduced by a third, strained through a tammy, and finished by means of two oz. of butter and a little cayenne per pint of sauce.The Red-Wine Sauce resembles the two preceding ones in so far as it containsmirepoixbrowned in butter and diluted[28]with red wine. The wine is reduced by half, thickened by a pint of Lenten Espagnole per pint of the reduction, and the sauce is despumated for about twenty minutes. It is strained through a tammy, and finished, when ready, by a few drops of anchovy essence, a little cayenne, and two oz. of butter per pint of sauce.39—GRAND-VENEUR SAUCETake one pint of Poivrade Sauce (No.49) and boil it, adding one pint of game stock to keep it light; reduce the sauce by a good third; remove it from the fire, and add four tablespoonfuls of red-currant jelly. When the latter is well dissolved, complete the sauce by one-quarter pint of cream per pint of sauce.This sauce is the proper accompaniment for joints of venison.40—ITALIAN SAUCEOrdinary Italian Sauce.—Put into a stewpan six tablespoonfuls of Duxelles (see No.223), two oz. of very lean, cooked ham, cut very finely,brunoise-fashion, and one pint of half-glaze tomatée. Boil for ten minutes, and complete, at the moment of dishing up, with one teaspoonful of parsley, chervil, and tarragon, minced and mixed.Lenten Italian Sauce.—Same preparation, only (1) omit the Ham, and (2) substitute Lent Espagnole (combined with fishfumetmade from the fish for which the sauce is intended) for half glaze with tomatoes.41—THICKENED GRAVYBoil one pint of poultry or veal stock (according to the nature of the dish the gravy is intended for). Thicken this sauce by means of three-quarters oz. of fecula, diluted cold, with a little water or gravy, and pour this leason into the boiling gravy, being careful to stir briskly.The thickened gravy with the veal-stock base is used for choicest pieces of butcher’s meat; that with a poultry-stock base is for fillets of poultry.42—VEAL GRAVY TOMATÉAdd to one pint of veal stock two oz. of purée and one-quarter pint of tomato juice, and reduce by a fifth. Strain the gravy through linen. This gravy is for butcher’s meat.[29]43—LYONNAISE SAUCEFinely mince two oz. of onions and brown them slightly in two oz. of butter. Moisten with one-quarter pint of white wine and as much vinegar; almost entirely reduce the liquid; add one and one-half pints of clear half-glaze, and set to cook slowly for half an hour. Rub the sauce through a tammy.N.B.—The onion may be left in the sauce or not, according to the preparation for which it is intended and the taste of the consumer.44—MADEIRA SAUCEPut one and one-half pints of half-glaze into a sauté-pan, and reduce it on a brisk fire to a stiff consistence. When it reaches this point, take it off the fire and add one-fifth pint of Madeira to it, which brings it back to its normal consistence. Strain through a tammy, and keep it warm without allowing it to boil.45—MARROW SAUCEFollow the proportions as indicated under “Sauce Bordelaise” (No.32) for the necessary quantity of this sauce, the Marrow Sauce being only a variety of the Bordelaise. Finish it with six oz. per quart of beef marrow, cut into cubes, poached and well drained, and one teaspoonful of chopped parsley, scalded for a second. If the sauce is to accompany vegetables, finish it, away from the fire, with three oz. of butter, and then add the cubes of marrow and the parsley.46—PIGNONS SAUCETake the necessary amount of Poivrade Sauce prepared according to Formula No.49, and let it boil. Now, for one pint of sauce, prepare an infusion of juniper berries, with one-quarter pint of water and two oz. ofconcassedberries; one oz. of grilled fir-apple kernels, and one oz. of raisins, stoned and washed, and left to soak in tepid water for about an hour. Finish the sauce, when dishing up, by adding the infusion of juniper berries strained through linen, the grilled kernels, the soaked raisins, and one-eighth pint of Madeira wine.This sauce is specially suited to joints of venison.47—PÉRIGUEUXSAUCEPrepare a “Sauce Madère” as explained in No.44, and add to the half-glaze, to be reduced, half its volume of very strong veal stock, and keep it a little denser than usual. Finish this[30]sauce by adding one-sixth pint of truffle essence and three oz. of chopped truffles per quart of Madeira Sauce. It is used for numerous small entrées, timbales, hot pâtés, &c.48—PIQUANTE SAUCEPut into a vegetable pan two oz. of minced shallots, one-quarter pint of vinegar, and as much white wine. Reduce the liquid by a good half, and add one pint of half-glaze; set the sauce to boil, and despumate it for half an hour. At the last moment finish it, away from the fire, with two oz. of gherkins, one oz. of capers, and a teaspoonful of chervil, parsley, and tarragon, mixed; all the ingredients to be finely chopped. This sauce generally accompanies grilled or boiled pork, and cold meat re-dished and minced which needs spicy flavouring.49—ORDINARY POIVRADE SAUCE1. Heat two oz. of butter in a stewpan, and insert one lb. of raw Mirepoix (No.228). Fry the vegetables until they are well browned; moisten with one-quarter pint of vinegar and one-half pint ofMarinade(Formula169); reduce to two-thirds; add one pint of Espagnole Sauce, and cook for three-quarters of an hour. Ten minutes before straining the sauce, put in a few crushed peppercorns. If the pepper were put in the sauce earlier, it might make it bitter.2. Pass the sauce through a strainer, pressing the aromatics; add a further one-half pint ofMarinade, and despumate for one-quarter of an hour, keeping it simmering the while. Strain again through tammy, and finish the sauce, when ready for dishing, with two oz. of butter.This sauce is suitable for jointsmarinadedor not.50—POIVRADE SAUCE FOR VENISONFry, with two oz. of butter and two oz. of oil, one lb. of raw Mirepoix (No.228) to which are added four lbs. of well-broken bones and ground-game trimmings. When the whole is well browned, drain the grease away, and dilute with one pint of vinegar and one pint of white wine. Reduce this liquid by three-quarters, then add three quarts of game stock and a quart of Espagnole Sauce. Boil, cover the saucepan, and put into a moderate oven, where it should stay for at least three hours. At the end of this time take out the saucepan and pour its contents into a fine sieve placed over a tureen; press the remains so as to expel all the sauce they hold, and pour the[31]sauce into a tall, thick saucepan. Add enough game stock andMarinade, mixed in equal parts, to produce three quarts in all of sauce, and gently reduce the latter while despumating it. As it diminishes in volume, it should be passed through muslin into smaller saucepans, and the reduction should be stopped when only a quart of sauce remains.N.B.—This sauce, like red-wine sauces, may be served as it stands. It is brilliant, clear, and perhaps more sightly thus, but the addition of a certain quantity of butter (four oz. per quart) makes it perfectly mellow, and admirably completes its fragrance.51—PROVENÇALE SAUCEPeel, remove the seeds, press andconcasstwelve medium tomatoes. Heat in a sauté-pan one-fifth pint of oil, until it begins to smoke a little; insert the tomatoes seasoned with pepper and salt; add a crushed garlic clove, a pinch of powdered sugar, one teaspoonful of chopped parsley, and allow to melt gently for half an hour. In reality, true Provençale is nothing but a finefondueof tomatoes with garlic.52—ROBERT SAUCEFinely mince a large onion and put it into a stewpan with butter. Fry the onion gently and without letting it acquire any colour. Dilute with one-third pint of white wine, reduce the latter by one-third, add one pint of half-glaze, and leave to simmer for twenty minutes. When dishing up, finish the sauce with one tablespoonful of meat glaze, one teaspoonful of mustard, and one pinch of powdered sugar. If, when finished, the sauce has to wait, it should be kept warm in abain-marie, as it must not boil again. This sauce—of a spicy flavour—is best suited to grilled and boiled pork. It may also be used for a mince of the same meat.53—ESCOFFIER ROBERTS SAUCEThis sauce may be bought ready-made. It is used either hot or cold. It is especially suitable for pork, veal, poultry, and even fish, and is generally used hot with grills after the equivalent of its volume of excellent brown stock has been added to it. It may also be served cold to accompany cold meat.54—ROUENNAISE SAUCEPrepare a “Bordelaise” sauce according to Formula No.32. The diluent of this sauce must be an excellent red wine. For one pint of sauce, pass four raw ducks’ livers through a[32]sieve; add the resulting purée to the Bordelaise, and heat the latter for a few minutes in order to poach the liver. Be careful, however, not to heat the sauce too much nor too long, lest the liver be cooked. Serve this sauce with duckling à la Rouennaise.55—SALMIS SAUCEThe base of this sauce, which rather resembles the cullis, is unchangeable. Its diluent only changes according to the kind of birds or game to be treated, and whether this game is to be considered ordinary or Lenten.Cut and gently brown in butter five oz. of Mirepoix (Formula228). Add the shin detached from the limbs and the chopped carcase of the bird under treatment, and moisten with one pint of white wine. Reduce the latter to two-thirds, add one-half pint of half glaze, and boil gently for three-quarters of an hour. Pass through a strainer, while pressing upon the carcase and the aromatics, with the view of extracting their quintessence, and thin the cullis thus obtained by means of one-half pint of game stock or mushroom liquor, if the game be Lenten. Now despumate for about one hour, finally reduce the sauce, bring it to its proper consistency with a little mushroom liquor and truffle essence, rub it through tammy, and butter it slightly at the last moment.56—TORTUE SAUCEBoil one-half pint of veal stock, adding a small sprig of sage, sweet marjoram, rosemary, basil, thyme, and as much bay, two oz. of mushroom parings, and one oz. of parsley. Cover and allow to infuse for half an hour. Two minutes before straining the infusion, add fourconcassedpeppercorns.After straining through fine linen, add one-half pint of half-glaze and as much tomato sauce (away from the fire) with four tablespoonfuls of sherry, a little truffle essence, and a good pinch of cayenne.N.B.—As this sauce must be spicy, the use of cayenne suggests itself, but great caution should be observed, as there must be no excess of this condiment.57—VENISON SAUCEPrepare a Poivrade sauce for game, as explained in No.50. Finish this sauce with two tablespoonfuls of red-currant jelly, previously dissolved, and mixed with five tablespoonfuls of[33]fresh cream per pint of sauce. This addition of cream and red-currants must be made away from the fire.Serve this sauce with big ground-game.Small White and Compound Sauces.58—AMERICAN SAUCEThis sauce is that of lobster prepared “à l’Américaine” (see No.939). As it generally accompanies a fish, the meat of the lobster or lobsters which have served in its preparation is sliced and used as the garnish of the fish.59—ANCHOVY SAUCEPut into a small stewpan one pint of unbuttered “Normande Sauce” (No.99), and finish it, away from the fire, with three oz. of anchovy butter, and one oz. of anchovy fillets, washed, well sponged, and cut into small pieces.60—AURORE SAUCEInto one-half pint of boiling velouté put the same quantity of very red tomato purée (No.29), and mix the two. Let the sauce boil a little, pass it through a tammy, and finish, away from the fire, with three oz. of butter.61—LENTEN AURORE SAUCEThis sauce is made like the preceding one,i.e., with the same quantities of velouté and tomato purée, replacing ordinary velouté by fish velouté.62—BÉARNAISE SAUCEPut into a small stewpan one teaspoonful of chopped shallots, two oz. of chopped tarragon stalks, three oz. of chervil, some mignonette pepper, a pinch of salt, and four tablespoonfuls of vinegar. Reduce the vinegar by two-thirds, take off the fire, let the stewpan cool a little, and add to this reduction the yolks of five eggs. Now put the stewpan on a low fire and gradually combine with the yolks six oz. of melted butter. Whisk the sauce briskly, so as to ensure the cooking of the yolks, which alone, by gradual cooking, effect the leason of the sauce.When the butter is combined with the sauce, rub the latter through tammy, and finish it with a teaspoonful of chervil parings and chopped tarragon leaves. Complete the seasoning with a suspicion of cayenne. This sauce should not be served very hot, as it is really a mayonnaise with butter. It need only[34]be tepid, for it would probably turn if it were over-heated. Serve it with grilled, butcher’s meat and poultry.63—BÉARNAISE SAUCE WITH MEAT GLAZE,OTHERWISE VALOISSAUCE OR FOYOT SAUCEPrepare a Béarnaise sauce as explained in No.62. Complete it with three tablespoonfuls of dissolved pale meat glaze, which may be added in small quantities at a time. Serve it with butcher’s meat.64—BÉARNAISE TOMATÉE SAUCE OR CHORON SAUCEProceed in exactly the same way as for Béarnaise No.62. When the sauce is made and rubbed through tammy, finish it with one-third pint of very red tomato purée. In this case the final addition of chervil and tarragon should not be made.This is proper to “Tournedos Choron,” but it may accompany grilled poultry and white, butcher’s meat.65—BERCY SAUCEHeat two oz. of chopped shallots. Moisten with one-half pint of white wine and as much fishfumet, or, when possible, the same quantity of fish liquor, the latter being, of course, that of a fish similar to the one the sauce is to accompany. Reduce to a good third, add one-third pint of velouté, let the sauce boil some time, and finish it, away from the fire, with four oz. of butter (added by degrees), a few drops of fish glaze, half the juice of a lemon, and one oz. of chopped parsley.Serve with medium-sized poached fish.66—BUTTER SAUCEMix two oz. of sifted flour with two oz. of melted butter. Dilute with one quart of boiling water, salted to the extent of one-quarter oz. per quart. Stir briskly to ensure a perfect leason, and do not allow to boil. Add immediately the yolks of six eggs mixed with one-quarter pint of cream and the juice of half a lemon. Rub through a tammy, and finish the sauce with five oz. of best fresh butter.Be careful that the sauce does not boil after it has been thickened.67—BONNEFOY SAUCE, OR WHITE BORDELAISE SAUCEPut in a stewpan two oz. of minced shallots and one-half pint of Graves, Sauterne, or any other excellent white[35]Bordeaux. Reduce the wine almost entirely, add one-quarter pint of velouté, let it simmer twenty minutes, and rub it through a tammy. Finish it, away from the fire, with six oz. of butter and a little chopped tarragon.Serve it with grilled fish and grilled white meat.68—CAPER SAUCEThis is a derivative of the Butter Sauce described under No.66, and there need only be added two tablespoonfuls of capers per pint of sauce. It frequently accompanies boiled fish of all kinds.69—CARDINAL SAUCEBoil one pint of Béchamel, to which add one-half pint of fishfumetand a little truffle essence, and reduce by a quarter. Finish the sauce, when dishing up, with three tablespoonfuls of cream and three oz. of very red lobster butter (No.149).This sauce is poured over the fish.70—MUSHROOM SAUCEIf this be intended for poultry, add one-fifth pint of mushroom liquor and eight oz. of button-mushroom heads turned or channelled and cooked, to one pint of very stiff Allemande Sauce.If it be intended for fish, take one pint of fish velouté, thickened with the yolks of four eggs, and finish it with mushroom liquor, as above.The sauce that I suggest for poultry may also be used for fish, after adding the necessary quantity of fishfumet.71—CHÂTEAUBRIAND SAUCEPut one oz. of chopped shallots, a sprig of thyme and a bit of bay, one oz. of mushroom parings, and one-quarter pint of white wine into a stewpan. Reduce the wine almost entirely, add one-half pint of veal gravy, and reduce again until the liquid only measures one-quarter pint. Strain through muslin, and finish the sauce away from the fire with four oz. of butter “Maître d’Hôtel” (No.150), to which may be added a little chopped tarragon. Serve with grilled fillet of beef, otherwise “Châteaubriand.”72—WHITE CHAUD-FROID SAUCEBoil one pint of velouté in a stewpan, and add three-quarters pint of melted white poultry jelly. Put the stewpan on an open[36]fire, reduce the sauce by a third, stirring constantly the while, and gradually add one-half pint of very fresh cream. When the sauce has reached the desired degree of consistency rub it through a tammy, and stir it frequently while it cools, for fear of a skin forming on its surface, for if this happened it would have to be strained again. When dishing up, this sauce should be cold, so that it may properly coat immersed solids and yet be liquid enough to admit of the latter being easily steeped into it.73—ORDINARY CHAUD-FROID SAUCEProceed exactly as above, substituting Allemande Sauce for the velouté, and reducing the quantity of cream to one-quarter pint. Observe the same precautions while cooling.74—CHAUD-FROID SAUCE, A L’AUROREPrepare a white Chaud-Froid (No.72). The same may be coloured by the addition of fine red tomato purée—more or less to match the desired shade—or by an infusion of paprika, according to the use for which it is intended. This last product is preferable when not too deep a shade is required.75—CHAUD-FROID SAUCE, AU VERT-PRÉAdd to the velouté of the white Chaud-Froid sauce, at the same time as the jelly, an infusion preparedthus:—Boil one-quarter pint of white wine, and add to it one pinch of chervil stalks, a similar quantity of tarragon leaves, chives, and parsley leaves. Cover, allow infusion to proceed away from the fire for ten minutes, and strain through linen.Treat the sauce as explained, and finish with spinach-green (No.143). The shade of the sauce must not be too pronounced, but must remain a pale green. The colouring principle must therefore be added with caution and in small quantities, until the correct shade is obtained. Use this sauce for Chaud-froids of fowl, particularly that kind distinguished as “Printanier.”76—LENT CHAUD-FROID SAUCEProceed as for white Chaud-Froid, using the same quantities, and taking note of the followingmodifications:—1. Substitute fish velouté for ordinary velouté.2. Substitute white fish jelly for poultry jelly.Remarks.—I have adopted the use of this ordinary Chaud-Froid sauce for the glazing of fillets and escalopes of fish and Shell-fish, instead of cleared Mayonnaise, formerly used, which[37]had certain inconveniences—not the least being the oozing away of the oil under the shrinkage of the gelatine. This difficulty does not obtain in the ordinary Chaud-Froid, the definite and pronounced flavour of which is better than that of the cleared Mayonnaise.77—“ESCOFFIER” CHERRY SAUCEThis sauce may be bought ready-made. Like the Roberts Sauce, it can be served hot or cold. It is an excellent adjunct to venison, and even to small ground-game. Saddle of venison with this sauce constitutes one of the greatest dainties that an epicure could desire.78—CHIVRY SAUCEIn one-half pint of boiling poultry stock put a large pinch of chervilpluches, tarragon and parsley leaves, a head of young pimpernel (the qualification here is very important, for this aromatic plant grows bitter as it matures), and a good pinch of chives. Cover up, and let infusion proceed for ten to twelve minutes; then add the liquid (strained through linen) to one pint of velouté. Boil, reduce by a quarter, and complete it with two oz. of Green Butter (No.143). Chivry Sauce is admirably suited to boiled or poached poultry.79—CREAM SAUCEBoil one pint of Béchamel Sauce, and add one-quarter pint of cream to it. Reduce on an open fire until the sauce has become very thick; then pass through tammy. Bring to its normal degree of consistency by gradually adding, away from the fire, one-quarter pint of very fresh cream and a few drops of lemon-juice. Serve this sauce with boiled fish, poultry, eggs, and various vegetables.80—SHRIMP SAUCEBoil one pint of fish velouté or, failing this, Béchamel sauce, and add to it one-quarter pint of cream and one-quarter pint of very clear fishfumet. Reduce to one pint, and finish the sauce, away from the fire, with two oz. of Shrimp Butter (No.145) and two oz. of shelled shrimps’ tails.81—CURRY SAUCESlightly brown the following vegetables inbutter:—Twelve oz. of minced onions, one oz. of parsley roots, four oz. of minced celery, a small sprig of thyme, a bit of bay, and a little mace. Sprinkle with two oz. of flour and a teaspoonful of curry pepper.[38]Cook the flour for some minutes without letting it acquire any colour, and dilute with one and one-half pints of white stock. Boil, cook gently for three-quarters of an hour, and rub through a tammy. Now heat the sauce, remove its grease, and keep it in thebain-marie. Serve this sauce with fish, shell-fish, poultry, and various egg-preparations.N.B.—This sauce is sometimes flavoured with cocoa-nut milk in the proportion of one-quarter of the diluent.82—DIPLOMATE SAUCETake one pint of Normande Sauce, prepared according to No.99, and finish it with two oz. of lobster butter and three tablespoonfuls of lobster meat, and truffles cut into small, regular tubes.83—HERB SAUCEPrepare one pint of white-wine sauce (No.111). Finish it away from the fire with three oz. of shallot butter, a tablespoonful of parsley, chervil, tarragon, and chives, chopped and mixed. Serve this sauce with boiled or poached fish.84—GOOSEBERRY SAUCEPrepare one pint of butter sauce, Formula No.66. Meanwhile put one lb. of green gooseberries into a small copper saucepan containing boiling water. Boil for five minutes, then drain the gooseberries, and put them in a little stewpan with one-half pint of white wine and three oz. of powdered sugar. Gently cook the gooseberries, rub them through a tammy, and add the resulting pulp to the butter sauce. This sauce is excellent with grilled mackerel and the poached fillets of that fish.85—HUNGARIAN SAUCEGently fry in butter, without colouring, two tablespoonfuls of chopped onions seasoned with table-salt and half a teaspoonful of paprika. Moisten with one-quarter pint of white wine, add a small faggot, reduce the wine by two-thirds, and remove the herbs.Finish with one pint of ordinary or Lenten Velouté, according to the use for which the sauce is intended, and boil moderately for five minutes. Then rub the sauce through a tammy, and complete it with two oz. of butter. Remember this sauce should be of a tender, pink shade, which it must owe to the paprika alone.[39]It forms an ideal accompaniment to choice morsels of lamb and veal, eggs, poultry, and fish.86—OYSTER SAUCETake one pint of Normande Sauce, finish it as directed in that recipe, and complete it with one-quarter pint of reduced oyster liquor, strained through linen, and twelve poached and trimmed oysters.87—IVORY SAUCE, OR ALBUFERA SAUCETake the necessary quantity of Suprême Sauce, prepared as explained in No.106a. Add to this four tablespoonfuls of dissolved, pale, meat glaze per quart of sauce, in order to lend the latter that ivory-white tint which characterises it. Serve this sauce chiefly with poultry and poached sweet-bread.88—JOINVILLE SAUCEPrepare one pint of Normande Sauce (No.99), as given in the first part of its formula, and complete it with two oz. of shrimp butter and two oz. of crayfish butter. If this sauce is to accompany a fish à la Joinville, which includes a special garnish, it is served as it stands. If it is served with a large, boiled, ungarnished fish, one oz. of very black truffles cutJulienne-fashionshould be added. As may be seen, Joinville Sauce differs from similar preparations in the final operation where crayfish and shrimp butter are combined.89—MALTESE SAUCETo the Hollandaise Sauce, given under No.30, add, whendishing up, the juice of two blood oranges (these late-season oranges being especially suitable for this sauce) and half a coffeespoonful of grated orange-rind.Maltese Sauce is the finest for asparagus.90—MARINIÈRE SAUCETake the necessary quantity of Bercy Sauce (No.65), and add, per pint of sauce, one-quarter pint of mussel liquor and a leason composed of the yolks of three eggs.Serve this with small poached fish and more particularly with mussels.91—MORNAY SAUCEBoil one pint of Béchamel Sauce with one-quarter pint of thefumetof the fish, poultry, or vegetable, which is to constitute[40]the dish. Reduce by a good quarter, and add two oz. of Gruyère and two oz. of grated Parmesan.Put the sauce on the fire again for a few minutes, and ensure the melting of the cheese by stirring with a small whisk. Finish the sauce away from the fire with two oz. of butter added by degrees.92—MOUSSELINE SAUCETo a Hollandaise Sauce, prepared as explained (No.30), add, just before dishing up, one-half pint of stiffly-whipped cream per pint of sauce.93—MOUSSEUSE SAUCEScald and wipe a small vegetable-pan, and put into it one-half lb. of stiffly-maniedbutter, properly softened. Season this butter with table-salt and a few drops of lemon-juice, and whisk it while gradually adding one-third pint of cold water. Finish with two tablespoonfuls of very firm, whipped cream. This preparation, though classified as a sauce, is really a compound butter, which is served with boiled fish. The heat of the fish alone suffices to melt it, and its appearance is infinitely more agreeable than that of plain, melted butter.94—MUSTARD SAUCETake the necessary quantity of butter sauce and complete it, away from the fire, with one tablespoonful of mustard per pint of sauce.N.B.—If the sauce has to wait, it must be kept in abain-marie, for it should not on any account boil. It is served with certain small grilled fish, especially fresh herrings.95—NANTUA SAUCEBoil one pint of Béchamel Sauce, add one-half pint of cream, and reduce by a third. Rub it through a tammy, and finish it with a further addition of two tablespoonfuls of cream, three oz. of very fine crayfish butter, and one tablespoonful of small, shelled crayfishes’ tails.96—NEWBURG SAUCEFirst Method(with Raw Lobsters).—Divide a two lb. lobster into four parts. Remove its creamy parts, pound them finely with two oz. of butter, and put them aside.[41]Heat in a sautépan one and one-half oz. of butter and as much oil, and insert the pieces of lobster, well seasoned with salt and cayenne. Fry until the pieces assume a fine, red colour; entirely drain away the butter, and add two tablespoonfuls of burnt brandy and one-third pint of Marsala or old Sherry.Reduce the wine by two-thirds, and wet the lobster with one-third pint of cream and one-half pint of fishfumet. Now add a faggot, cover the sautépan, and gently cook for twenty-five minutes. Then drain the lobster on a sieve, remove the meat and cut it into cubes, and finish the sauce by adding the creamy portions put aside from the first. Boil so as to ensure the cooking of these latter portions; add the meat, cut into cubes, and verify the seasoning.N.B.—The addition of the meat to the sauce is optional; instead of cutting it into cubes it may be stewed and displayed on the fish constituting the dish.97—SECOND METHOD (WITH COOKED LOBSTER)The lobster having been cooked in aCourt-bouillon, shell the tail and slice it up. Arrange these slices in a sautépan liberally buttered at the bottom; season them strongly with salt and cayenne, and heat them on both sides so as to effect the reddening of the skin. Immerse, so as to cover, in a good Sherry, and almost entirely reduce same.When dishing up, pour on to the slices a leason composed of one-third pint of fresh cream and the yolks of two eggs. Gently stir, away from the fire, and roll the saucepan about until the leason is completed.Originally, these two sauces, like the American, were exclusively composed of, and served with, lobster. They were one with the two very excellent preparations of lobster which bear their name. In its two forms lobster may only be served at lunch, many people with delicate stomachs being unable to digest it at night. To obviate this serious difficulty, I have made it a practice to serve lobster sauce with fillets orMousselinesof sole, adding the lobster as a garnish only. And this innovation proved most welcome to the public.By using such condiments as curry and paprika, excellent varieties of this sauce may be obtained, which are particularly suited to sole and other white Lenten fish. In either of these cases it is well to add a little rice “à l’Indienne” to the fish.[42]98—NOISETTE SAUCEPrepare a Hollandaise Sauce according to the recipe under No.30. Add two oz. of hazel-nut butter at the last moment.Serve this with salmon, trout, and all boiled fish in general.99—NORMANDE SAUCEPut in a sautépan one pint of fish velouté, three tablespoonfuls of mushroom liquor, as much oyster liquor, and twice as much solefumet, the yolks of three eggs, a few drops of lemon-juice, and one-quarter pint of cream. Reduce by a good third on an open fire, season with a little cayenne, rub through a tammy, and finish with two oz. of butter and four tablespoonfuls of good cream.This sauce is proper to fillet of sole “à la Normande,” but it is also frequently used as the base of other small sauces.100—ORIENTAL SAUCETake one pint of American sauce, season with curry, and reduce to a third. Then add, away from the fire, one-quarter pint of cream per pint of sauce.Serve this sauce in the same way as American Sauce.101—POULETTE SAUCEBoil for a few minutes one pint of Sauce Allemande, and add six tablespoonfuls of mushroom liquor. Finish, away from the fire, with two oz. of butter, a few drops of lemon-juice, and one teaspoonful of chopped parsley. Use this sauce with certain vegetables, but more generally with sheep’s trotters.102—RAVIGOTESAUCEReduce by half, one-quarter pint of white wine with half as much vinegar. Add one pint of ordinary velouté, boil gently for a few minutes, and finish with one and one-half oz. of shallot butter and one teaspoonful of chervil, tarragon, and chopped chives. This sauce accompanies boiled poultry and certain white “abats.”103—REGENCY SAUCEIf this sauce is to garnish poultry, boil one pint of Allemande Sauce with six tablespoonfuls of mushroom essence and two tablespoonfuls of truffle essence. Finish with four tablespoonfuls of poultry glaze.[43]If it is to garnish fish, substitute for the Allemande Sauce some fish velouté thickened with egg-yolks and the essences of mushroom and truffle as above. Complete with some fish essence.104—SOUBISE SAUCEStew in butter two lbs. of finely-minced onions, scalded for three minutes and well dried. This stewing of the onions in butter increases their flavour. Now add one-half pint of thickened Béchamel; season with salt and a teaspoonful of powdered sugar. Cook gently for half an hour, rub through a tammy, and complete the sauce with some tablespoonfuls of cream and two oz. of butter.105—SOUBISE SAUCE WITH RICEThe same quantity as above of minced onions, scalded and well drained. Garnish the bottom and the sides of a tall, medium stewpan with some thin rashers of fat bacon. Insert the onions, together with one-quarter lb. of Carolina rice, one pint of white consommé, a large pinch of powdered sugar, and the necessary salt. Cook gently in the front of the oven for three-quarters of an hour. Then pound the onions and rice in a mortar, rub the resulting purée through a tammy, and finish with cream and butter as in the preceding case.N.B.—This sauce, being more consistent than the former, is used as a garnish just as often as a sauce.106—SOUBISE SAUCE TOMATÉEPrepare a soubise in accordance with the first of the two above formulæ, and add to it one-third of its volume of very red tomato purée.Remarks.1. The Soubise is rather a cullis than a sauce;i.e., its consistence must be greater than that of a sauce.2. The admixture of Béchamel in Soubise is preferable to that of rice, seeing that it makes it smoother. If, in certain cases, rice is used as a cohering element, in order to give the Soubise more stiffness.3. In accordance with the uses to which it may be put, the Soubise Tomatée may be finally seasoned either with curry or paprika.[44]106a—SUPRÊME SAUCEThe salient characteristics of Suprême Sauce are its perfect whiteness and consummate delicacy. It is generally prepared in small quantities only.Preparation.—Put one and one-half pints of very clear poultry stock and one-quarter pint of mushroom cooking liquor into a sautépan. Reduce to two-thirds; add one pint of “poultry velouté”; reduce on an open fire, stirring with the spatula the while, and combine one-half pint of excellent cream with the sauce, this last ingredient being added little by little.When the sauce has reached the desired consistence, strain it through a sieve, and add another one-quarter pint of cream and two oz. of best butter. Stir with a spoon, from time to time, or keep the pan well covered.107—VENETIAN SAUCEPut into a stewpan one tablespoonful of chopped shallots, one tablespoonful of chervil, and one-quarter pint of white wine and tarragon vinegar, mixed in equal quantities. Reduce the vinegar by two-thirds; add one pint of white wine sauce (No.111); boil for a few minutes; rub through a tammy, and finish the sauce with a sufficient quantity of Herb Juice (No.183) and one teaspoonful of chopped chervil and tarragon. This sauce accompanies various fish.108—VILLEROY SAUCEPut into a sautépan one pint of Allemande Sauce to which have been added two tablespoonfuls of truffle essence and as much ham essence.Reduce on an open fire and constantly stir until the sauce is sufficiently stiff to coat immersed solids thickly.109—VILLEROY SOUBISEE SAUCEPut into a sautépan two-thirds pint of Allemande Sauce and one-third pint of Soubise purée (Formula105). Reduce as in the preceding case, as the uses to which this is put are the same. Now, according to the circumstances and the nature of the solid it is intended for, a few teaspoonfuls of very black, chopped truffles may be added to this sauce.110—VILLEROY TOMATÉE SAUCEPrepare the sauce as explained under No.108, and add to it the third of its volume of very fine tomato purée. Reduce in the same way.[45]Remarks.—1. Villeroy sauce, of whatsoever kind, is solely used for the coating of preparations said to be “à la Villeroy.”2. The Villeroy Tomatée may be finally seasoned with curry or paprika, according to the preparation for which it is intended.111—WHITE WINE SAUCEThe three following methods are employed in makingit:—1. Add one-quarter pint of fishfumetto one pint of thickened Velouté, and reduce by half. Finish the sauce, away from the fire, with four oz. of butter. Thus prepared, this white wine sauce is suitable for glazed fish.2. Almost entirely reduce one-quarter pint of fishfumet. To this reduction add the yolks of four eggs, mixing them well in it, and follow with one lb. of butter, added by degrees, paying heed to the precautions indicated under sauce Hollandaise No.30.3. Put the yolks of five eggs into a small stewpan and mix them with one tablespoonful of cold fish-stock. Put the stewpan in abain-marieand finish the sauce with one lb. of butter, meanwhile adding from time to time, and in small quantities, six tablespoonfuls of excellent fishfumet. The procedure in this sauce is, in short, exactly that of the Hollandaise, with this distinction, that here fishfumettakes the place of the water.Hot English Sauces112—APPLE SAUCEQuarter, peel, core, and chop two lbs. of medium-sized apples; place these in a stewpan with one tablespoonful of powdered sugar, a bit of cinnamon, and a few tablespoonfuls of water. Cook the whole gently with lid on, and smooth the purée with a whisk when dishing up.Serve this sauce lukewarm with duck, goose, roast hare, &c.113—BREAD SAUCEBoil one pint of milk, and add three oz. of fresh, white bread-crumb, a little salt, a small onion with a clove stuck in it, and one oz. of butter. Cook gently for about a quarter of an hour, remove the onion, smooth the sauce with a whisk, and finish it with a few tablespoonfuls of cream.This sauce is served with roast fowl and roast feathered game.[46]114—CELERY SAUCEClean six stalks of celery (only use the hearts), put them in a sautépan, wholly immerse in consommé, add a faggot and one onion with a clove stuck in it, and cook gently. Drain the celery, pound it in a mortar, then rub it through a tammy and put the purée in a stewpan. Now thin the purée with an equal quantity of cream sauce and a little reduced celery liquor. Heat it moderately, and, if it has to wait, put it in abain-marie.This sauce is suited to boiled or braised poultry. It is excellent, and has been adopted in French cookery.115—CRANBERRY SAUCECook one pint of cranberries with one quart of water in a stewpan, and cover the stewpan. When the berries are cooked drain them in a fine sieve through which they are strained. To the purée thus obtained add the necessary quantity of their cooking liquor, so as to make a somewhat thick sauce. Sugar should be added according to the taste of the consumer.This sauce is mostly served with roast turkey. It is to be bought ready-made, and, if this kind be used, it need only be heated with a little water.116—FENNEL SAUCETake one pint of butter sauce (No.66) and finish it with two tablespoonfuls of chopped fennel, scalded for a few seconds.This is principally used with mackerel.117—EGG SAUCE WITH MELTED BUTTERDissolve one-quarter pound of butter, and add to it the necessary salt, a little pepper, half the juice of a lemon, and three hard-boiled eggs (hot and cut into large cubes); also a teaspoonful of chopped and scalded parsley.118—SCOTCH EGG SAUCEMake a white roux with one and one-half oz. of butter and one oz. of flour. Mix in one pint of boiling milk, season with salt, white pepper, and nutmeg, and boil gently for ten minutes. Then add three hot hard-boiled eggs, cut into cubes (the whites and the yolks).This sauce usually accompanies boiled fish, especially fresh haddocks and fresh and salted cod.[47]119—HORSE-RADISH OR ALBERT SAUCERasp five oz. of horse-radish and place them in a stewpan with one-quarter pint of white consommé. Boil gently for twenty minutes and add a good one-half pint of butter sauce, as much cream, and one-half oz. of bread-crumb; thicken by reducing on a brisk fire and rub through tammy. Then thicken with the yolks of two eggs, and complete the seasoning with a pinch of salt and pepper, and a teaspoonful of mustard dissolved in a tablespoonful of vinegar.Serve this sauce with braised or roast beef—especially fillets.119a—PARSLEY SAUCEThis is the Butter Sauce (No.66), to which is added, per pint, a heaped tablespoonful of freshly-chopped parsley.120—REFORM SAUCEPut into a small stewpan and boil one pint of half-glaze sauce and one-half pint of ordinary Poivrade sauce. Complete with a garnish composed of one-half oz. of gherkins, one-half oz. of the hard-boiled white of an egg, one oz. of salted tongue, one oz. of truffles, and one oz. of mushrooms. All these to be cutJulienne-fashionand short.This sauce is for mutton cutlets when these are “à la Reform.”
Remarks.—In order that the classification of the small sauces should be clear and methodical, I divide them into three parts.
The first part includes the small brown sauces; the second deals with the small white sauces and those suited to this part of the classification; while the third is concerned with the English sauces.
This sauce is principally used to accompany braised andpoëledducklings. In the first case, the duckling’s braising stock, being thickened, constitutes a sauce. In the second case, the stock is clear, and the procedure in both cases is asfollows:—
1. After having strained the braising sauce, completely remove its grease, and reduce it until it is very dense. Strain it once more through muslin, twisting the latter; then, in order to bring the sauce to its normal consistence, add the juice of six oranges and one lemon per quart of sauce. Finish with a small piece of lemon and orange rind cut regularly and finely,Julienne-fashion, and scalded for five minutes.
2. Strain thepoëlingstock, for ducklings or wild ducks, through linen; entirely remove the grease, and add four pieces of caramel sugar dissolved in one tablespoonful of vinegar per one-half point of stock, the juice of the oranges and the lemon and theJulienneof rinds, as for the braised-ducklings sauce indicated above.
Put into a vegetable-pan two oz. of very finely minced shallots, one-half pint of good red wine, a pinch of mignonette pepper, and bits of thyme and bay. Reduce the wine by three-quarters, and add one-half pint of half-glaze. Keep the sauce simmering for half an hour; despumate it from time to time, and strain it through linen or a sieve. When dishing it up, finish it with two tablespoonfuls of dissolved meat glaze, a few drops of lemon-juice, and four oz. of beef-marrow, cut into slices or cubes and poached in slightly salted boiling water. This sauce may be buttered to the extent of about three oz. per pint, which makes it smoother, but less clear. It is especially suitable for grilled butcher’s meat.
Peel and mince six medium-sized mushrooms. Heat one-half oz. of butter and as much olive oil in a vegetable-pan; put in the mushrooms, and fry the latter quickly until they are slightly browned. Now add a coffeespoonful of minced shallots, and immediately remove half the butter; pour one-half pint of white wine and one glass of liqueur brandy into the stewpan; reduce this liquid to half, and finish the sauce with: one-half pint of half-glaze, one-quarter pint of tomato sauce, and one tablespoonful of meat-glaze. Set to boil for five minutes more, and complete with a teaspoonful of chopped parsley.
Put one quart of half-glaze into a sauté-pan with one-fifth pint of truffle essence. Put the pan on an open fire, and reduce its contents; while making same add to the sauce, in small quantities at a time, one and one-half pints of jelly.
The degree of reduction in this sauce is a good third, but, to be quite certain, a test of its consistence may be made by allowing it to cool a little. After the reduction, carefully taste, and rectify the seasoning if necessary; mix a little Madeira or Port with the sauce, away from the fire, and strain through muslin or, preferably, through a Venetian-hair sieve. Stir the sauce now and then while it cools, until it is sufficiently liquid, and at the same time consistent enough, to coat immersed solids evenly with a film of sauce. Its use will be explained among the formulæ of the different kinds of Chaud-froids.
For Ducks.—Prepare the sauce as above, adding to it (for the prescribed quantity) one-half pint of duckfumetobtained from the carcases and remains of roast duckling, and finish it, away from the fire, with the juice of four oranges and a heaped tablespoonful of orange rind, cut finely,Julienne-fashion, and scalded for five minutes.
For Feathered Game.—Treat the Chaud-Froid sauce as indicated in No.34, adding one-half pint of thefumetof the game constituting the dish in order to lend it that game’s characteristic taste. Observe the same precaution for the cooling.
For Fish.—Proceed as in No.34, but (1) substitute the Espagnole of fish for the half glaze; (2) intensify the first Espagnole with one-half pint of very clear fish essence; (3) use Lenten jelly instead of meat jelly.
Remarks upon the Use of Chaud-Froid Sauces.—The chaud-froid sauce may be prepared beforehand, and when it is wanted it need only be gently melted without heating it too much. It ought simply to be made sufficiently liquid to give a good coating to substances immersed in it.
Put in a vegetable pan two oz. of sliced shallots and one-third pint of white wine. Reduce the latter to two-thirds, add one-half pint of half-glaze, reduce to two-thirds, season strongly with cayenne pepper, and strain through muslin. This sauce may be served with grilled fowls or pigeons. It also forms an excellent accompaniment to re-dished meat which needs a spicy sauce.
This sauce, which may be bought ready-made, is admirably fitted to accompany grilled fish and grills in general. In order to make it ready, all that is needed is to add its own volume of fresh butter to it, the latter being previously well softened so as to ensure its perfect mixture with the sauce.
Heat two oz. of butter in a stewpan; insert one lb. of Mirepoix (No.228) without bacon. Slightly brown, add two lbs. of head of salmon and remains or bones of fish, and stew with lid on for twenty minutes. Let the stewpan lean slightly to[27]one side, so that the butter may be drained; moisten with one bottle of excellent red wine; reduce the latter by half; add one pint of Lenten Espagnole, and allow to cook gently for half an hour.
Rub the sauce through a sieve, pressing it so as to extract all the essence. Let it rest awhile; carefully remove the fat which has risen to the surface, and add one liqueur-glass of burnt brandy, one-half pint of red wine, and as much fishfumet. Boil again, then move stewpan to the side of fire to despumate for one and one-half hours. Frequently remove what the ebullition causes to rise to the surface, this second period of cooking being only to ensure the purification of the sauce. If the ebullition has been well effected, the sauce should reach the proper degree of reduction and despumation at the same moment of time. It is then strained through muslin or tammy, and it is finished at the last minute with a few drops of anchovy essence and four oz. of butter per quart of sauce.
N.B.—The Genevoise Sauce, like all red-wine sauces, may be served without being buttered. It is thus clearer and more sightly in colour, but the addition of butter in small quantities makes it mellower and more palatable.
In the general repertory of cooking we also have, in the way of red-wine sauces, the “Bourguignonne,” “Matelote,” and “Red-Wine” sauces, which are closely allied to the “Genevoise,” and only differ from it in details of procedure.
The “Bourguignonne” Sauce is composed of red-wine accompanied by aromatics, and reduced by half. In accordance with ordinary principles, it is thickened by means of three oz. ofmaniedbutter per quart of reduced wine. This sauce is buttered with four oz. of butter per quart, and is especially regarded as a domestic preparation for poached, moulded, and hard-boiled eggs.
“Matelote” Sauce is made from Court-bouillon, with red wine which has been used for cooking fish. This Court-bouillon, with the mushroom parings added, is reduced by two-thirds, and is thickened with one pint of Lenten Espagnole per pint of the reduced Court-bouillon.
This sauce should be reduced by a third, strained through a tammy, and finished by means of two oz. of butter and a little cayenne per pint of sauce.
The Red-Wine Sauce resembles the two preceding ones in so far as it containsmirepoixbrowned in butter and diluted[28]with red wine. The wine is reduced by half, thickened by a pint of Lenten Espagnole per pint of the reduction, and the sauce is despumated for about twenty minutes. It is strained through a tammy, and finished, when ready, by a few drops of anchovy essence, a little cayenne, and two oz. of butter per pint of sauce.
Take one pint of Poivrade Sauce (No.49) and boil it, adding one pint of game stock to keep it light; reduce the sauce by a good third; remove it from the fire, and add four tablespoonfuls of red-currant jelly. When the latter is well dissolved, complete the sauce by one-quarter pint of cream per pint of sauce.
This sauce is the proper accompaniment for joints of venison.
Ordinary Italian Sauce.—Put into a stewpan six tablespoonfuls of Duxelles (see No.223), two oz. of very lean, cooked ham, cut very finely,brunoise-fashion, and one pint of half-glaze tomatée. Boil for ten minutes, and complete, at the moment of dishing up, with one teaspoonful of parsley, chervil, and tarragon, minced and mixed.
Lenten Italian Sauce.—Same preparation, only (1) omit the Ham, and (2) substitute Lent Espagnole (combined with fishfumetmade from the fish for which the sauce is intended) for half glaze with tomatoes.
Boil one pint of poultry or veal stock (according to the nature of the dish the gravy is intended for). Thicken this sauce by means of three-quarters oz. of fecula, diluted cold, with a little water or gravy, and pour this leason into the boiling gravy, being careful to stir briskly.
The thickened gravy with the veal-stock base is used for choicest pieces of butcher’s meat; that with a poultry-stock base is for fillets of poultry.
Add to one pint of veal stock two oz. of purée and one-quarter pint of tomato juice, and reduce by a fifth. Strain the gravy through linen. This gravy is for butcher’s meat.
Finely mince two oz. of onions and brown them slightly in two oz. of butter. Moisten with one-quarter pint of white wine and as much vinegar; almost entirely reduce the liquid; add one and one-half pints of clear half-glaze, and set to cook slowly for half an hour. Rub the sauce through a tammy.
N.B.—The onion may be left in the sauce or not, according to the preparation for which it is intended and the taste of the consumer.
Put one and one-half pints of half-glaze into a sauté-pan, and reduce it on a brisk fire to a stiff consistence. When it reaches this point, take it off the fire and add one-fifth pint of Madeira to it, which brings it back to its normal consistence. Strain through a tammy, and keep it warm without allowing it to boil.
Follow the proportions as indicated under “Sauce Bordelaise” (No.32) for the necessary quantity of this sauce, the Marrow Sauce being only a variety of the Bordelaise. Finish it with six oz. per quart of beef marrow, cut into cubes, poached and well drained, and one teaspoonful of chopped parsley, scalded for a second. If the sauce is to accompany vegetables, finish it, away from the fire, with three oz. of butter, and then add the cubes of marrow and the parsley.
Take the necessary amount of Poivrade Sauce prepared according to Formula No.49, and let it boil. Now, for one pint of sauce, prepare an infusion of juniper berries, with one-quarter pint of water and two oz. ofconcassedberries; one oz. of grilled fir-apple kernels, and one oz. of raisins, stoned and washed, and left to soak in tepid water for about an hour. Finish the sauce, when dishing up, by adding the infusion of juniper berries strained through linen, the grilled kernels, the soaked raisins, and one-eighth pint of Madeira wine.
This sauce is specially suited to joints of venison.
Prepare a “Sauce Madère” as explained in No.44, and add to the half-glaze, to be reduced, half its volume of very strong veal stock, and keep it a little denser than usual. Finish this[30]sauce by adding one-sixth pint of truffle essence and three oz. of chopped truffles per quart of Madeira Sauce. It is used for numerous small entrées, timbales, hot pâtés, &c.
Put into a vegetable pan two oz. of minced shallots, one-quarter pint of vinegar, and as much white wine. Reduce the liquid by a good half, and add one pint of half-glaze; set the sauce to boil, and despumate it for half an hour. At the last moment finish it, away from the fire, with two oz. of gherkins, one oz. of capers, and a teaspoonful of chervil, parsley, and tarragon, mixed; all the ingredients to be finely chopped. This sauce generally accompanies grilled or boiled pork, and cold meat re-dished and minced which needs spicy flavouring.
1. Heat two oz. of butter in a stewpan, and insert one lb. of raw Mirepoix (No.228). Fry the vegetables until they are well browned; moisten with one-quarter pint of vinegar and one-half pint ofMarinade(Formula169); reduce to two-thirds; add one pint of Espagnole Sauce, and cook for three-quarters of an hour. Ten minutes before straining the sauce, put in a few crushed peppercorns. If the pepper were put in the sauce earlier, it might make it bitter.
2. Pass the sauce through a strainer, pressing the aromatics; add a further one-half pint ofMarinade, and despumate for one-quarter of an hour, keeping it simmering the while. Strain again through tammy, and finish the sauce, when ready for dishing, with two oz. of butter.
This sauce is suitable for jointsmarinadedor not.
Fry, with two oz. of butter and two oz. of oil, one lb. of raw Mirepoix (No.228) to which are added four lbs. of well-broken bones and ground-game trimmings. When the whole is well browned, drain the grease away, and dilute with one pint of vinegar and one pint of white wine. Reduce this liquid by three-quarters, then add three quarts of game stock and a quart of Espagnole Sauce. Boil, cover the saucepan, and put into a moderate oven, where it should stay for at least three hours. At the end of this time take out the saucepan and pour its contents into a fine sieve placed over a tureen; press the remains so as to expel all the sauce they hold, and pour the[31]sauce into a tall, thick saucepan. Add enough game stock andMarinade, mixed in equal parts, to produce three quarts in all of sauce, and gently reduce the latter while despumating it. As it diminishes in volume, it should be passed through muslin into smaller saucepans, and the reduction should be stopped when only a quart of sauce remains.
N.B.—This sauce, like red-wine sauces, may be served as it stands. It is brilliant, clear, and perhaps more sightly thus, but the addition of a certain quantity of butter (four oz. per quart) makes it perfectly mellow, and admirably completes its fragrance.
Peel, remove the seeds, press andconcasstwelve medium tomatoes. Heat in a sauté-pan one-fifth pint of oil, until it begins to smoke a little; insert the tomatoes seasoned with pepper and salt; add a crushed garlic clove, a pinch of powdered sugar, one teaspoonful of chopped parsley, and allow to melt gently for half an hour. In reality, true Provençale is nothing but a finefondueof tomatoes with garlic.
Finely mince a large onion and put it into a stewpan with butter. Fry the onion gently and without letting it acquire any colour. Dilute with one-third pint of white wine, reduce the latter by one-third, add one pint of half-glaze, and leave to simmer for twenty minutes. When dishing up, finish the sauce with one tablespoonful of meat glaze, one teaspoonful of mustard, and one pinch of powdered sugar. If, when finished, the sauce has to wait, it should be kept warm in abain-marie, as it must not boil again. This sauce—of a spicy flavour—is best suited to grilled and boiled pork. It may also be used for a mince of the same meat.
This sauce may be bought ready-made. It is used either hot or cold. It is especially suitable for pork, veal, poultry, and even fish, and is generally used hot with grills after the equivalent of its volume of excellent brown stock has been added to it. It may also be served cold to accompany cold meat.
Prepare a “Bordelaise” sauce according to Formula No.32. The diluent of this sauce must be an excellent red wine. For one pint of sauce, pass four raw ducks’ livers through a[32]sieve; add the resulting purée to the Bordelaise, and heat the latter for a few minutes in order to poach the liver. Be careful, however, not to heat the sauce too much nor too long, lest the liver be cooked. Serve this sauce with duckling à la Rouennaise.
The base of this sauce, which rather resembles the cullis, is unchangeable. Its diluent only changes according to the kind of birds or game to be treated, and whether this game is to be considered ordinary or Lenten.
Cut and gently brown in butter five oz. of Mirepoix (Formula228). Add the shin detached from the limbs and the chopped carcase of the bird under treatment, and moisten with one pint of white wine. Reduce the latter to two-thirds, add one-half pint of half glaze, and boil gently for three-quarters of an hour. Pass through a strainer, while pressing upon the carcase and the aromatics, with the view of extracting their quintessence, and thin the cullis thus obtained by means of one-half pint of game stock or mushroom liquor, if the game be Lenten. Now despumate for about one hour, finally reduce the sauce, bring it to its proper consistency with a little mushroom liquor and truffle essence, rub it through tammy, and butter it slightly at the last moment.
Boil one-half pint of veal stock, adding a small sprig of sage, sweet marjoram, rosemary, basil, thyme, and as much bay, two oz. of mushroom parings, and one oz. of parsley. Cover and allow to infuse for half an hour. Two minutes before straining the infusion, add fourconcassedpeppercorns.
After straining through fine linen, add one-half pint of half-glaze and as much tomato sauce (away from the fire) with four tablespoonfuls of sherry, a little truffle essence, and a good pinch of cayenne.
N.B.—As this sauce must be spicy, the use of cayenne suggests itself, but great caution should be observed, as there must be no excess of this condiment.
Prepare a Poivrade sauce for game, as explained in No.50. Finish this sauce with two tablespoonfuls of red-currant jelly, previously dissolved, and mixed with five tablespoonfuls of[33]fresh cream per pint of sauce. This addition of cream and red-currants must be made away from the fire.
Serve this sauce with big ground-game.
This sauce is that of lobster prepared “à l’Américaine” (see No.939). As it generally accompanies a fish, the meat of the lobster or lobsters which have served in its preparation is sliced and used as the garnish of the fish.
Put into a small stewpan one pint of unbuttered “Normande Sauce” (No.99), and finish it, away from the fire, with three oz. of anchovy butter, and one oz. of anchovy fillets, washed, well sponged, and cut into small pieces.
Into one-half pint of boiling velouté put the same quantity of very red tomato purée (No.29), and mix the two. Let the sauce boil a little, pass it through a tammy, and finish, away from the fire, with three oz. of butter.
This sauce is made like the preceding one,i.e., with the same quantities of velouté and tomato purée, replacing ordinary velouté by fish velouté.
Put into a small stewpan one teaspoonful of chopped shallots, two oz. of chopped tarragon stalks, three oz. of chervil, some mignonette pepper, a pinch of salt, and four tablespoonfuls of vinegar. Reduce the vinegar by two-thirds, take off the fire, let the stewpan cool a little, and add to this reduction the yolks of five eggs. Now put the stewpan on a low fire and gradually combine with the yolks six oz. of melted butter. Whisk the sauce briskly, so as to ensure the cooking of the yolks, which alone, by gradual cooking, effect the leason of the sauce.
When the butter is combined with the sauce, rub the latter through tammy, and finish it with a teaspoonful of chervil parings and chopped tarragon leaves. Complete the seasoning with a suspicion of cayenne. This sauce should not be served very hot, as it is really a mayonnaise with butter. It need only[34]be tepid, for it would probably turn if it were over-heated. Serve it with grilled, butcher’s meat and poultry.
Prepare a Béarnaise sauce as explained in No.62. Complete it with three tablespoonfuls of dissolved pale meat glaze, which may be added in small quantities at a time. Serve it with butcher’s meat.
Proceed in exactly the same way as for Béarnaise No.62. When the sauce is made and rubbed through tammy, finish it with one-third pint of very red tomato purée. In this case the final addition of chervil and tarragon should not be made.
This is proper to “Tournedos Choron,” but it may accompany grilled poultry and white, butcher’s meat.
Heat two oz. of chopped shallots. Moisten with one-half pint of white wine and as much fishfumet, or, when possible, the same quantity of fish liquor, the latter being, of course, that of a fish similar to the one the sauce is to accompany. Reduce to a good third, add one-third pint of velouté, let the sauce boil some time, and finish it, away from the fire, with four oz. of butter (added by degrees), a few drops of fish glaze, half the juice of a lemon, and one oz. of chopped parsley.
Serve with medium-sized poached fish.
Mix two oz. of sifted flour with two oz. of melted butter. Dilute with one quart of boiling water, salted to the extent of one-quarter oz. per quart. Stir briskly to ensure a perfect leason, and do not allow to boil. Add immediately the yolks of six eggs mixed with one-quarter pint of cream and the juice of half a lemon. Rub through a tammy, and finish the sauce with five oz. of best fresh butter.
Be careful that the sauce does not boil after it has been thickened.
Put in a stewpan two oz. of minced shallots and one-half pint of Graves, Sauterne, or any other excellent white[35]Bordeaux. Reduce the wine almost entirely, add one-quarter pint of velouté, let it simmer twenty minutes, and rub it through a tammy. Finish it, away from the fire, with six oz. of butter and a little chopped tarragon.
Serve it with grilled fish and grilled white meat.
This is a derivative of the Butter Sauce described under No.66, and there need only be added two tablespoonfuls of capers per pint of sauce. It frequently accompanies boiled fish of all kinds.
Boil one pint of Béchamel, to which add one-half pint of fishfumetand a little truffle essence, and reduce by a quarter. Finish the sauce, when dishing up, with three tablespoonfuls of cream and three oz. of very red lobster butter (No.149).
This sauce is poured over the fish.
If this be intended for poultry, add one-fifth pint of mushroom liquor and eight oz. of button-mushroom heads turned or channelled and cooked, to one pint of very stiff Allemande Sauce.
If it be intended for fish, take one pint of fish velouté, thickened with the yolks of four eggs, and finish it with mushroom liquor, as above.
The sauce that I suggest for poultry may also be used for fish, after adding the necessary quantity of fishfumet.
Put one oz. of chopped shallots, a sprig of thyme and a bit of bay, one oz. of mushroom parings, and one-quarter pint of white wine into a stewpan. Reduce the wine almost entirely, add one-half pint of veal gravy, and reduce again until the liquid only measures one-quarter pint. Strain through muslin, and finish the sauce away from the fire with four oz. of butter “Maître d’Hôtel” (No.150), to which may be added a little chopped tarragon. Serve with grilled fillet of beef, otherwise “Châteaubriand.”
Boil one pint of velouté in a stewpan, and add three-quarters pint of melted white poultry jelly. Put the stewpan on an open[36]fire, reduce the sauce by a third, stirring constantly the while, and gradually add one-half pint of very fresh cream. When the sauce has reached the desired degree of consistency rub it through a tammy, and stir it frequently while it cools, for fear of a skin forming on its surface, for if this happened it would have to be strained again. When dishing up, this sauce should be cold, so that it may properly coat immersed solids and yet be liquid enough to admit of the latter being easily steeped into it.
Proceed exactly as above, substituting Allemande Sauce for the velouté, and reducing the quantity of cream to one-quarter pint. Observe the same precautions while cooling.
Prepare a white Chaud-Froid (No.72). The same may be coloured by the addition of fine red tomato purée—more or less to match the desired shade—or by an infusion of paprika, according to the use for which it is intended. This last product is preferable when not too deep a shade is required.
Add to the velouté of the white Chaud-Froid sauce, at the same time as the jelly, an infusion preparedthus:—Boil one-quarter pint of white wine, and add to it one pinch of chervil stalks, a similar quantity of tarragon leaves, chives, and parsley leaves. Cover, allow infusion to proceed away from the fire for ten minutes, and strain through linen.
Treat the sauce as explained, and finish with spinach-green (No.143). The shade of the sauce must not be too pronounced, but must remain a pale green. The colouring principle must therefore be added with caution and in small quantities, until the correct shade is obtained. Use this sauce for Chaud-froids of fowl, particularly that kind distinguished as “Printanier.”
Proceed as for white Chaud-Froid, using the same quantities, and taking note of the followingmodifications:—
1. Substitute fish velouté for ordinary velouté.
2. Substitute white fish jelly for poultry jelly.
Remarks.—I have adopted the use of this ordinary Chaud-Froid sauce for the glazing of fillets and escalopes of fish and Shell-fish, instead of cleared Mayonnaise, formerly used, which[37]had certain inconveniences—not the least being the oozing away of the oil under the shrinkage of the gelatine. This difficulty does not obtain in the ordinary Chaud-Froid, the definite and pronounced flavour of which is better than that of the cleared Mayonnaise.
This sauce may be bought ready-made. Like the Roberts Sauce, it can be served hot or cold. It is an excellent adjunct to venison, and even to small ground-game. Saddle of venison with this sauce constitutes one of the greatest dainties that an epicure could desire.
In one-half pint of boiling poultry stock put a large pinch of chervilpluches, tarragon and parsley leaves, a head of young pimpernel (the qualification here is very important, for this aromatic plant grows bitter as it matures), and a good pinch of chives. Cover up, and let infusion proceed for ten to twelve minutes; then add the liquid (strained through linen) to one pint of velouté. Boil, reduce by a quarter, and complete it with two oz. of Green Butter (No.143). Chivry Sauce is admirably suited to boiled or poached poultry.
Boil one pint of Béchamel Sauce, and add one-quarter pint of cream to it. Reduce on an open fire until the sauce has become very thick; then pass through tammy. Bring to its normal degree of consistency by gradually adding, away from the fire, one-quarter pint of very fresh cream and a few drops of lemon-juice. Serve this sauce with boiled fish, poultry, eggs, and various vegetables.
Boil one pint of fish velouté or, failing this, Béchamel sauce, and add to it one-quarter pint of cream and one-quarter pint of very clear fishfumet. Reduce to one pint, and finish the sauce, away from the fire, with two oz. of Shrimp Butter (No.145) and two oz. of shelled shrimps’ tails.
Slightly brown the following vegetables inbutter:—Twelve oz. of minced onions, one oz. of parsley roots, four oz. of minced celery, a small sprig of thyme, a bit of bay, and a little mace. Sprinkle with two oz. of flour and a teaspoonful of curry pepper.[38]Cook the flour for some minutes without letting it acquire any colour, and dilute with one and one-half pints of white stock. Boil, cook gently for three-quarters of an hour, and rub through a tammy. Now heat the sauce, remove its grease, and keep it in thebain-marie. Serve this sauce with fish, shell-fish, poultry, and various egg-preparations.
N.B.—This sauce is sometimes flavoured with cocoa-nut milk in the proportion of one-quarter of the diluent.
Take one pint of Normande Sauce, prepared according to No.99, and finish it with two oz. of lobster butter and three tablespoonfuls of lobster meat, and truffles cut into small, regular tubes.
Prepare one pint of white-wine sauce (No.111). Finish it away from the fire with three oz. of shallot butter, a tablespoonful of parsley, chervil, tarragon, and chives, chopped and mixed. Serve this sauce with boiled or poached fish.
Prepare one pint of butter sauce, Formula No.66. Meanwhile put one lb. of green gooseberries into a small copper saucepan containing boiling water. Boil for five minutes, then drain the gooseberries, and put them in a little stewpan with one-half pint of white wine and three oz. of powdered sugar. Gently cook the gooseberries, rub them through a tammy, and add the resulting pulp to the butter sauce. This sauce is excellent with grilled mackerel and the poached fillets of that fish.
Gently fry in butter, without colouring, two tablespoonfuls of chopped onions seasoned with table-salt and half a teaspoonful of paprika. Moisten with one-quarter pint of white wine, add a small faggot, reduce the wine by two-thirds, and remove the herbs.
Finish with one pint of ordinary or Lenten Velouté, according to the use for which the sauce is intended, and boil moderately for five minutes. Then rub the sauce through a tammy, and complete it with two oz. of butter. Remember this sauce should be of a tender, pink shade, which it must owe to the paprika alone.
[39]It forms an ideal accompaniment to choice morsels of lamb and veal, eggs, poultry, and fish.
Take one pint of Normande Sauce, finish it as directed in that recipe, and complete it with one-quarter pint of reduced oyster liquor, strained through linen, and twelve poached and trimmed oysters.
Take the necessary quantity of Suprême Sauce, prepared as explained in No.106a. Add to this four tablespoonfuls of dissolved, pale, meat glaze per quart of sauce, in order to lend the latter that ivory-white tint which characterises it. Serve this sauce chiefly with poultry and poached sweet-bread.
Prepare one pint of Normande Sauce (No.99), as given in the first part of its formula, and complete it with two oz. of shrimp butter and two oz. of crayfish butter. If this sauce is to accompany a fish à la Joinville, which includes a special garnish, it is served as it stands. If it is served with a large, boiled, ungarnished fish, one oz. of very black truffles cutJulienne-fashionshould be added. As may be seen, Joinville Sauce differs from similar preparations in the final operation where crayfish and shrimp butter are combined.
To the Hollandaise Sauce, given under No.30, add, whendishing up, the juice of two blood oranges (these late-season oranges being especially suitable for this sauce) and half a coffeespoonful of grated orange-rind.
Maltese Sauce is the finest for asparagus.
Take the necessary quantity of Bercy Sauce (No.65), and add, per pint of sauce, one-quarter pint of mussel liquor and a leason composed of the yolks of three eggs.
Serve this with small poached fish and more particularly with mussels.
Boil one pint of Béchamel Sauce with one-quarter pint of thefumetof the fish, poultry, or vegetable, which is to constitute[40]the dish. Reduce by a good quarter, and add two oz. of Gruyère and two oz. of grated Parmesan.
Put the sauce on the fire again for a few minutes, and ensure the melting of the cheese by stirring with a small whisk. Finish the sauce away from the fire with two oz. of butter added by degrees.
To a Hollandaise Sauce, prepared as explained (No.30), add, just before dishing up, one-half pint of stiffly-whipped cream per pint of sauce.
Scald and wipe a small vegetable-pan, and put into it one-half lb. of stiffly-maniedbutter, properly softened. Season this butter with table-salt and a few drops of lemon-juice, and whisk it while gradually adding one-third pint of cold water. Finish with two tablespoonfuls of very firm, whipped cream. This preparation, though classified as a sauce, is really a compound butter, which is served with boiled fish. The heat of the fish alone suffices to melt it, and its appearance is infinitely more agreeable than that of plain, melted butter.
Take the necessary quantity of butter sauce and complete it, away from the fire, with one tablespoonful of mustard per pint of sauce.
N.B.—If the sauce has to wait, it must be kept in abain-marie, for it should not on any account boil. It is served with certain small grilled fish, especially fresh herrings.
Boil one pint of Béchamel Sauce, add one-half pint of cream, and reduce by a third. Rub it through a tammy, and finish it with a further addition of two tablespoonfuls of cream, three oz. of very fine crayfish butter, and one tablespoonful of small, shelled crayfishes’ tails.
First Method(with Raw Lobsters).—Divide a two lb. lobster into four parts. Remove its creamy parts, pound them finely with two oz. of butter, and put them aside.
[41]Heat in a sautépan one and one-half oz. of butter and as much oil, and insert the pieces of lobster, well seasoned with salt and cayenne. Fry until the pieces assume a fine, red colour; entirely drain away the butter, and add two tablespoonfuls of burnt brandy and one-third pint of Marsala or old Sherry.
Reduce the wine by two-thirds, and wet the lobster with one-third pint of cream and one-half pint of fishfumet. Now add a faggot, cover the sautépan, and gently cook for twenty-five minutes. Then drain the lobster on a sieve, remove the meat and cut it into cubes, and finish the sauce by adding the creamy portions put aside from the first. Boil so as to ensure the cooking of these latter portions; add the meat, cut into cubes, and verify the seasoning.
N.B.—The addition of the meat to the sauce is optional; instead of cutting it into cubes it may be stewed and displayed on the fish constituting the dish.
The lobster having been cooked in aCourt-bouillon, shell the tail and slice it up. Arrange these slices in a sautépan liberally buttered at the bottom; season them strongly with salt and cayenne, and heat them on both sides so as to effect the reddening of the skin. Immerse, so as to cover, in a good Sherry, and almost entirely reduce same.
When dishing up, pour on to the slices a leason composed of one-third pint of fresh cream and the yolks of two eggs. Gently stir, away from the fire, and roll the saucepan about until the leason is completed.
Originally, these two sauces, like the American, were exclusively composed of, and served with, lobster. They were one with the two very excellent preparations of lobster which bear their name. In its two forms lobster may only be served at lunch, many people with delicate stomachs being unable to digest it at night. To obviate this serious difficulty, I have made it a practice to serve lobster sauce with fillets orMousselinesof sole, adding the lobster as a garnish only. And this innovation proved most welcome to the public.
By using such condiments as curry and paprika, excellent varieties of this sauce may be obtained, which are particularly suited to sole and other white Lenten fish. In either of these cases it is well to add a little rice “à l’Indienne” to the fish.
Prepare a Hollandaise Sauce according to the recipe under No.30. Add two oz. of hazel-nut butter at the last moment.
Serve this with salmon, trout, and all boiled fish in general.
Put in a sautépan one pint of fish velouté, three tablespoonfuls of mushroom liquor, as much oyster liquor, and twice as much solefumet, the yolks of three eggs, a few drops of lemon-juice, and one-quarter pint of cream. Reduce by a good third on an open fire, season with a little cayenne, rub through a tammy, and finish with two oz. of butter and four tablespoonfuls of good cream.
This sauce is proper to fillet of sole “à la Normande,” but it is also frequently used as the base of other small sauces.
Take one pint of American sauce, season with curry, and reduce to a third. Then add, away from the fire, one-quarter pint of cream per pint of sauce.
Serve this sauce in the same way as American Sauce.
Boil for a few minutes one pint of Sauce Allemande, and add six tablespoonfuls of mushroom liquor. Finish, away from the fire, with two oz. of butter, a few drops of lemon-juice, and one teaspoonful of chopped parsley. Use this sauce with certain vegetables, but more generally with sheep’s trotters.
Reduce by half, one-quarter pint of white wine with half as much vinegar. Add one pint of ordinary velouté, boil gently for a few minutes, and finish with one and one-half oz. of shallot butter and one teaspoonful of chervil, tarragon, and chopped chives. This sauce accompanies boiled poultry and certain white “abats.”
If this sauce is to garnish poultry, boil one pint of Allemande Sauce with six tablespoonfuls of mushroom essence and two tablespoonfuls of truffle essence. Finish with four tablespoonfuls of poultry glaze.
[43]If it is to garnish fish, substitute for the Allemande Sauce some fish velouté thickened with egg-yolks and the essences of mushroom and truffle as above. Complete with some fish essence.
Stew in butter two lbs. of finely-minced onions, scalded for three minutes and well dried. This stewing of the onions in butter increases their flavour. Now add one-half pint of thickened Béchamel; season with salt and a teaspoonful of powdered sugar. Cook gently for half an hour, rub through a tammy, and complete the sauce with some tablespoonfuls of cream and two oz. of butter.
The same quantity as above of minced onions, scalded and well drained. Garnish the bottom and the sides of a tall, medium stewpan with some thin rashers of fat bacon. Insert the onions, together with one-quarter lb. of Carolina rice, one pint of white consommé, a large pinch of powdered sugar, and the necessary salt. Cook gently in the front of the oven for three-quarters of an hour. Then pound the onions and rice in a mortar, rub the resulting purée through a tammy, and finish with cream and butter as in the preceding case.
N.B.—This sauce, being more consistent than the former, is used as a garnish just as often as a sauce.
Prepare a soubise in accordance with the first of the two above formulæ, and add to it one-third of its volume of very red tomato purée.
1. The Soubise is rather a cullis than a sauce;i.e., its consistence must be greater than that of a sauce.
2. The admixture of Béchamel in Soubise is preferable to that of rice, seeing that it makes it smoother. If, in certain cases, rice is used as a cohering element, in order to give the Soubise more stiffness.
3. In accordance with the uses to which it may be put, the Soubise Tomatée may be finally seasoned either with curry or paprika.
The salient characteristics of Suprême Sauce are its perfect whiteness and consummate delicacy. It is generally prepared in small quantities only.
Preparation.—Put one and one-half pints of very clear poultry stock and one-quarter pint of mushroom cooking liquor into a sautépan. Reduce to two-thirds; add one pint of “poultry velouté”; reduce on an open fire, stirring with the spatula the while, and combine one-half pint of excellent cream with the sauce, this last ingredient being added little by little.
When the sauce has reached the desired consistence, strain it through a sieve, and add another one-quarter pint of cream and two oz. of best butter. Stir with a spoon, from time to time, or keep the pan well covered.
Put into a stewpan one tablespoonful of chopped shallots, one tablespoonful of chervil, and one-quarter pint of white wine and tarragon vinegar, mixed in equal quantities. Reduce the vinegar by two-thirds; add one pint of white wine sauce (No.111); boil for a few minutes; rub through a tammy, and finish the sauce with a sufficient quantity of Herb Juice (No.183) and one teaspoonful of chopped chervil and tarragon. This sauce accompanies various fish.
Put into a sautépan one pint of Allemande Sauce to which have been added two tablespoonfuls of truffle essence and as much ham essence.
Reduce on an open fire and constantly stir until the sauce is sufficiently stiff to coat immersed solids thickly.
Put into a sautépan two-thirds pint of Allemande Sauce and one-third pint of Soubise purée (Formula105). Reduce as in the preceding case, as the uses to which this is put are the same. Now, according to the circumstances and the nature of the solid it is intended for, a few teaspoonfuls of very black, chopped truffles may be added to this sauce.
Prepare the sauce as explained under No.108, and add to it the third of its volume of very fine tomato purée. Reduce in the same way.
[45]Remarks.—1. Villeroy sauce, of whatsoever kind, is solely used for the coating of preparations said to be “à la Villeroy.”
2. The Villeroy Tomatée may be finally seasoned with curry or paprika, according to the preparation for which it is intended.
The three following methods are employed in makingit:—
1. Add one-quarter pint of fishfumetto one pint of thickened Velouté, and reduce by half. Finish the sauce, away from the fire, with four oz. of butter. Thus prepared, this white wine sauce is suitable for glazed fish.
2. Almost entirely reduce one-quarter pint of fishfumet. To this reduction add the yolks of four eggs, mixing them well in it, and follow with one lb. of butter, added by degrees, paying heed to the precautions indicated under sauce Hollandaise No.30.
3. Put the yolks of five eggs into a small stewpan and mix them with one tablespoonful of cold fish-stock. Put the stewpan in abain-marieand finish the sauce with one lb. of butter, meanwhile adding from time to time, and in small quantities, six tablespoonfuls of excellent fishfumet. The procedure in this sauce is, in short, exactly that of the Hollandaise, with this distinction, that here fishfumettakes the place of the water.
Quarter, peel, core, and chop two lbs. of medium-sized apples; place these in a stewpan with one tablespoonful of powdered sugar, a bit of cinnamon, and a few tablespoonfuls of water. Cook the whole gently with lid on, and smooth the purée with a whisk when dishing up.
Serve this sauce lukewarm with duck, goose, roast hare, &c.
Boil one pint of milk, and add three oz. of fresh, white bread-crumb, a little salt, a small onion with a clove stuck in it, and one oz. of butter. Cook gently for about a quarter of an hour, remove the onion, smooth the sauce with a whisk, and finish it with a few tablespoonfuls of cream.
This sauce is served with roast fowl and roast feathered game.
Clean six stalks of celery (only use the hearts), put them in a sautépan, wholly immerse in consommé, add a faggot and one onion with a clove stuck in it, and cook gently. Drain the celery, pound it in a mortar, then rub it through a tammy and put the purée in a stewpan. Now thin the purée with an equal quantity of cream sauce and a little reduced celery liquor. Heat it moderately, and, if it has to wait, put it in abain-marie.
This sauce is suited to boiled or braised poultry. It is excellent, and has been adopted in French cookery.
Cook one pint of cranberries with one quart of water in a stewpan, and cover the stewpan. When the berries are cooked drain them in a fine sieve through which they are strained. To the purée thus obtained add the necessary quantity of their cooking liquor, so as to make a somewhat thick sauce. Sugar should be added according to the taste of the consumer.
This sauce is mostly served with roast turkey. It is to be bought ready-made, and, if this kind be used, it need only be heated with a little water.
Take one pint of butter sauce (No.66) and finish it with two tablespoonfuls of chopped fennel, scalded for a few seconds.
This is principally used with mackerel.
Dissolve one-quarter pound of butter, and add to it the necessary salt, a little pepper, half the juice of a lemon, and three hard-boiled eggs (hot and cut into large cubes); also a teaspoonful of chopped and scalded parsley.
Make a white roux with one and one-half oz. of butter and one oz. of flour. Mix in one pint of boiling milk, season with salt, white pepper, and nutmeg, and boil gently for ten minutes. Then add three hot hard-boiled eggs, cut into cubes (the whites and the yolks).
This sauce usually accompanies boiled fish, especially fresh haddocks and fresh and salted cod.
Rasp five oz. of horse-radish and place them in a stewpan with one-quarter pint of white consommé. Boil gently for twenty minutes and add a good one-half pint of butter sauce, as much cream, and one-half oz. of bread-crumb; thicken by reducing on a brisk fire and rub through tammy. Then thicken with the yolks of two eggs, and complete the seasoning with a pinch of salt and pepper, and a teaspoonful of mustard dissolved in a tablespoonful of vinegar.
Serve this sauce with braised or roast beef—especially fillets.
This is the Butter Sauce (No.66), to which is added, per pint, a heaped tablespoonful of freshly-chopped parsley.
Put into a small stewpan and boil one pint of half-glaze sauce and one-half pint of ordinary Poivrade sauce. Complete with a garnish composed of one-half oz. of gherkins, one-half oz. of the hard-boiled white of an egg, one oz. of salted tongue, one oz. of truffles, and one oz. of mushrooms. All these to be cutJulienne-fashionand short.
This sauce is for mutton cutlets when these are “à la Reform.”