[394]2. VEAL.With the exception of veal sweetbreads, it cannot be denied that this meat is considerably less popular in England than abroad, nor does it ever seem to appear on important menus in this country.Of course, and the fact must not be lost sight of, English veal is admittedly inferior in quality—badly fattened, and mostly red, soft, and dry. Probably, therefore, its unpopularity may be the indirect cause of its poor quality; for it is inconceivable that a country so famous for cattle-rearing as England undoubtedly is could not produce veal equal in quality to its beef, mutton, and pork, if rearers thought it worth their while to perfect that special branch of their business. Be this as it may, almost all the best veal consumed in England comes from the Continent, principally from France, Belgium, and Holland; and, in this respect, I not only refer to the larger joints, but to those odd parts such as the head, the liver, the sweetbreads, &c., the continental quality of which is likewise very superior to that of the English produce.1181—SELLE DE VEAU (Relevé)Saddle of veal is the only Relevé of this meat which is sometimes allowed to appear on an important menu, and it is, in fact, a splendid and succulent joint.It may be roasted, but I should urge the adoption of the braising treatment, not only as a precaution against dryness, but because of the fine stock yielded by the operation.Whatever be the method of cooking, trim the saddle on one side, flush with the bones of the pelvis, and up to the first ribs on the other side. Then cut out the kidneys, leaving a thick layer of fat on the under fillets or “filets mignons”; pare the flank on either side, in such wise that what is left of it, when drawn under the saddle on either side, may just cover the fillets above referred to. This flank should only be drawn over the fillets after the inside of the joint has been salted; then cover the top surface of the joint with slices of bacon, and tie round with string, five or six times, that the bacon and the flank may not shift.When the saddle is intended for only a small number of people, half of it may be used at a time; that is to say, one fillet, in which case the joint may be cut in two, lengthwise.The procedure for braising this piece is in pursuance of the directions given under “The Braising of White Meats” (No.248).[395]The process of braising, whether it be in respect of the saddle or other veal Relevés, such as the cushion, the loin, the neck, &c., demands particular care, must be accompanied by frequent basting, and should always be carried on with short moistening.1182—SELLE DE VEAUA LA CHARTREUSEBraise the saddle, and glaze it at the last moment, after having removed the slices of bacon. Set it on a long dish, and, at each end of the latter, place achartreuseof vegetables.Round the joint put a few tablespoonfuls of the braising-liquor, cleared of all grease, reduced, and well-strained; and serve what remains in a sauceboat.Chartreuses of Vegetables.—Take two dome- or Charlotte-moulds, capable of holding two-thirds of a quart. Butter them liberally; line them with buttered paper, and on the latter, over the bottom and sides of the utensil, lay carrots, turnips, peas, and French beans; each of which vegetables should be cooked in a way suited to its nature. This operation, which is somewhat finicking, may either be effected on the plan of a draught-board, or the different vegetables may be superposed in alternate rows of varying colours.When the moulds are garnished in this way, spread thereon, over the vegetables, a layer of forcemeat softened with beaten white of egg; the object of this measure is to keep the vegetable decoration in position, and this is effected by the poaching of the forcemeat before the chartreuse is filled with its garnish.This done, fill the moulds to within one-third inch of their brims with aMacédoineof vegetables cohered by means of stiff Béchamel and cream, and cover with a layer of forcemeat.Set these chartreuses to poach thirty-five minutes before serving, and take care to let them rest for five minutes before unmoulding them on either side of the saddle.1183—SELLE DE VEAUA LA METTERNICHBraise the saddle, and, when it is ready, put it on a dish. Now draw a line within one-half inch of its extreme edge on either side and end, pressing the point of a small knife along the meat in so doing.Proceed in the same way on either side of the chine, and remove the fillets from the joint, severing them from the bone with care.Cut the fillets into regular collops, keeping the knife somewhat at a slant.In the double cavity left by the fillets spread a few tablespoonfuls of Béchamel with paprika; return the colloped fillets[396]to their respective places in the joint, reconstructing them in such wise as to make them appear untouched; and between the collops pour one-half tablespoonful of Béchamel and lay two slices of truffle.This done, cover the whole surface of the joint with Béchamel sauce with paprika, and set to glaze quickly at the salamander. Now, with a large slice, carefully transfer the saddle to a dish.Serve separately (1) the braising-liquor of the saddle, cleared of all grease and reduced; (2) a timbale of pilaff rice.1184—SELLE DE VEAUA LA NELSONBraise the saddle. When it is ready, remove the fillets, proceeding exactly as described under “Selle à la Metternich,” and cut the fillets in a similar manner.In the cavities left by the fillets spread a few tablespoonfuls of Soubise; return the colloped fillets to their place, and, between the collops, place a thin slice of ham, of the same size and shape as the adjacent piece of meat, and a little Soubise sauce.Having reconstructed the joint, cover its surface with a layer, about one inch thick, of “Soufflé au Parmesan,” combined with one quart of truffle purée.Bind the joint with a strong band of buttered paper, for the purpose of holding in thesoufflé, and set it to cook in a moderate oven for fifteen minutes. After having taken the saddle out of the oven, remove the paper band, and send it to the table without changing the dish.Send the braising-liquor, cleared of all grease, reduced and strained, to the table separately.1185—SELLE DE VEAUA L’ORIENTALEBraise the saddle; remove the fillets, and cut them into collops as for “Selle à la Metternich.” Garnish the cavities with Soubise sauce “au currie”; reconstruct the fillets, putting a little of the same sauce between the collops, and coat the surface of the piece with the sauce already referred to.Surround the joint with braised celery, and serve its cooking liquor and a timbale of pilaff rice separately.1186—SELLE DE VEAUA LA PIÉMONTAISEBraise the saddle, and cut the fillets into collops as before. When reconstructing the fillets, between the collops put a little Béchamel sauce, combined with three and one-half oz. of grated Parmesan and three and one-half oz. of grated white truffles per quart of the sauce.[397]Coat the surface of the joint with the same sauce, and set to glaze quickly.Serve the braising-liquor, cleared of all grease and strained, separately; as also a timbale of rizotto à la Piémontaise (No.2258).1187—SELLE DE VEAU PRINCE ORLOFFBraise the saddle and proceed as above, placing between the collops of fillet a little Soubise sauce and a fine slice of truffle.Coat the surface of the joint with Mornay sauce, combined with one quart of highly-seasoned Soubise, and set to glaze quickly.N.B.—This saddle may be accompanied either by a garnish of asparagus-heads or by cucumbers with cream.1188—SELLE DE VEAUA LA ROMANOFFBraise the saddle; remove the fillets, and cut the latter into collops as for “Selle à la Metternich.” Reconstruct the fillets, placing a small quantity of minced mushrooms, cohered by means of a few tablespoonfuls of cream, between the collops, and coat the surface of the joint with highly-seasoned Béchamel sauce, finished with four oz. of crayfish butter per quart.Surround the piece with a border of braised half-fennels. Serve the braising-liquor, cleared of all grease, reduced and strained, separately.1189—SELLE DE VEAUA LA TOSCABraise the saddle, and then prepare it as for No.1183. Almost completely fill the cavities left by the fillets with a garnish of macaroni, cut into short lengths, cohered with cream, and combined with ajulienneof truffles.Reconstruct the fillets upon this garnish and coat the collops with Mornay sauce, placing a slice of truffle between the collops. The reconstructed fillets thus appear raised on either side of the chine.Coat the surface of the joint with the same sauce as that already used, and set to glaze quickly. Send the braising-liquor, cleared of all grease and strained, to the table separately.1190—SELLE DE VEAUA LA RENAISSANCEBraise the saddle, and glaze it at the last moment. Dish it and surround it with a large heap of cauliflower at either end; on either side, nice heaps of carrots and turnips, raised by means of an oval, grooved spoon-cutter, cooked in consommé and glazed; peas; French beans in lozenge-form; asparagus-heads[398]cohered with butter; and some small potatoes cooked in butter.Send the braising-liquor of the joint, cleared of grease and strained, separately.1191—SELLE DE VEAUA LA TALLEYRANDPrepare twenty studs of truffle, about one inch long and one-third oz. in weight. Stick them upright and symmetrically into the meat of the joint, making way for them by means of little incisions cut with a small knife. Now envelop the joint in slices of larding bacon, string it, braise it, and glaze it at the last moment.Dish it with some of its braising-liquor, cleared of all grease and reduced.Serve separately (1) what remains of the braising-liquor; (2) a garnish of macaroni, cut into half-inch lengths, cohered with one and one-half oz. of butter, three oz. of grated Gruyère and Parmesan, combined with three oz. of foie gras, cut into large dice, and three oz. of ajulienneof truffles, per lb. of macaroni.1192—SELLE DE VEAU FROIDECold saddle of veal makes an excellent sideboard dish which admits of all cold-dish garnishes, such asMacédoinesof vegetables cohered with jelly or mayonnaise sauce; artichoke-bottoms and tomatoes, variously garnished; small, moulded vegetable salads, &c.Decorate it with fine, regular, jelly dice; but its usual and essential adjunct is its own braising-liquor, cooked, cleared of grease poured carefully away, and served in a sauceboat without having been either clarified or cleared.All the pieces of veal given as relevés, the cushion, the loin, the fillet, and the fricandeau, may be served cold like the saddle, and are generally much appreciated, more particularly in summer.1193—LOIN OF VEAL1194—NECK OF VEAL1195—SHORT LOIN OF VEAL1196—CHUMP OF VEAL OR QUASI1197—CUSHION OF VEAL (Relevés)I have grouped these various Relevés together owing to the identicalness of their garnishes.The directions I give below for cushion of veal are, with a very few exceptions which I shall point out, applicable to all other large veal joints. In the circumstances, therefore, it would be quite unnecessary to repeat the recipe in each case.[399]Loin of Vealis that piece which corresponds with the sirloin in beef. It extends from the floating ribs to the extreme end of the haunch, the latter being cut flush with the pelvic bone at its junction with the femur, and following the direction of the former bone. The loin thus consists of two distinctparts:—(1) the caudal region (called the chump end; Fr. quasi), which comprises the bones of the pelvis and the haunch, up to the level of the latter, and is one of the best pieces of veal for braising; and (2) the region extending from the haunch to the floating ribs, comprising the fillet and the upper fillet. This last portion also constitutes a choice joint, to which the kidneys are generally left attached, after all their superfluous fat has been removed.Neck or Best End of Vealconsists of the first eight or nine ribs, cut two inches above the kernel of meat. The ends of the rib-bones are cleared of meat to a height of about two-thirds inch, and the naked bone is then called the “handle” of the cutlet, which ultimately holds the ornamental frill of paper.The vertebræ are then suppressed, so that the bones of the ribs alone remain; the yellow ligament is cut away; and the bared parts are covered with slices of bacon, tied on by means of string.Cushion of Vealconsists of an enormous muscle, which represents almost half of the haunch and all the inside part of it, from the pelvis to its junction with the tibia. A certain quantity of white fat will always be found to lie over the cushion, and it should be carefully reserved.If the cushion is to be larded, a procedure which I do not advise, it should be done on the bared part adjoining the fat-covered region.The various pieces of veal enumerated above may be roasted, but, as in the case of the saddle, I prefer braising, owing to the greater succulence of the dish resulting from this process, and its accompanying gravy, which has an incomparable flavour. (See Braising of White Meats, No.248.)1198—ADJUNCTS TO CUSHION OF VEALCushion of veal, like the other large pieces of veal, admits of an almost unlimited number of vegetable garnishes, simple or compound, as also garnishes of various pastes.From among these garnishes the following may be quoted,viz.:—Bouquetière, Bourgeoise,Chartreuse, Choisy, Chicorée, Cardoons, Clamart, Braised Celery, Japanese Artichokes, Chow-chow, Endives, Spinach, Braised Lettuce, à la Vichy, à la Nemours, &c.; Jardinière,Macédoine, Renaissance, &c.[400]Among the pastegarnishes:—Noodles, Macaroni, Spaghetti, variously prepared; various Gnocchi, &c.And, in addition to all these, the garnishes already given under Beef Relevés, which need not be repeated here.I shall, therefore, give only three recipes which are proper to cushion of veal; though even these should be regarded as mere curiosities, seeing that, far from recommending them, I consider them rather as gastronomical mistakes. But some provision must be made for outlandish tastes, and, for this reason alone, I include the following recipes.1199—NOIX DE VEAU EN SURPRISEBraise the cushion of veal, keeping it somewhat firm. This done, set it on a dish, and let it almost cool.Then cut a slice from it laterally, at a point one-third inch of its height from the top; and, within one-half inch of its edges, make a circular incision, pressing the point of a sharp knife into the meat, and withdraw the centre of the cushion. Take care to leave the same thickness of meat on the sides as on the bottom, that is to say, about one-half inch. The cushion of veal, thus emptied, should have the appearance of a round or oval case.If the meat withdrawn from the centre of the cushion is to serve for the garnish, or is to be used sliced to surround the case, cut it from out the whole in the largest possible pieces, in order that slices may easily be cut therefrom.The inside of the emptied cushion of veal is then garnished according to fancy; the top of the piece that was cut off at the start is returned to its place, with the view of giving the piece an untouched appearance, and the whole is put in the oven for a few minutes that it may be hot for serving.The braising-liquor, cleared of grease and strained, should be sent to the table separately.1200—NOIX DE VEAU EN SURPRISEA LA MACÉDOINEBraise the cushion of veal, and hollow it out as explained above.Meanwhile (1) prepare aMacédoinegarnish, or mixedJardinière(cohered with butter or cream), the quantity of which should be in proportion to the size of the case; (2) cut the meat, withdrawn from the centre of the cushion, into thin rectangles.Garnish the bottom of the case with a layer ofMacédoine, and set thereon a litter consisting of the rectangles of meat. Cover withMacédoine; set thereon another litter of the pieces[401]of meat, and renew the operation until the case is filled. Finish up with a layer ofMacédoine.Replace the slice cut from the cushion at the start; put the case in the oven for a few minutes; serve, and send the braising-liquor separately.1201—NOIX DE VEAU EN SURPRISEA LA PITHIVIERSBraise the cushion of veal, and prepare the case as directed above.Stuff fifteen larks without boning them; that is to say, put a lump of stuffing about the size of a hazel-nut into each. Fry them in butter with one-half lb. of mushrooms and three oz. of truffles, each of which vegetables should be raw and minced. Cohere the whole with the necessary quantity of half-glaze sauce, flavoured with game essence; put this garnish in the case; return the sliced piece to its place; seal the cover to the case by means of a thread of almost liquid forcemeat, and set in the oven for seven or eight minutes.When taking the case out of the oven, surround with the withdrawn meat, which should have been cut into thin slices and kept warm until required for the dressing.The larks may be replaced by quails or thrushes, or other small birds, but the name of the particular bird used must be referred to in the title of the dish.1202—NOIX DE VEAU EN SURPRISEA LA TOULOUSAINEBraise the cushion and cut it to the shape of a case as explained above. Pour therein a garnish consisting of quenelles of chicken forcemeat; lamb sweetbreads, or collops of veal sweetbreads, braised without colouration; cocks’ combs; small mushrooms, cooked and very white; and slices of truffle; the whole to be cohered by means of an Allemande sauce, flavoured with mushroom essence.Return the piece sliced off at the start to its place, and surround with slices of the meat withdrawn from the inside of the cushion.N.B.—All the garnishes suited to Vol-au-vent and timbales may be served with cushion-of-veal case, which latter thus stands in the stead of the Vol-au-vent and Timbale crusts.Finally, I must ask the reader to bear in mind that methods like those described above have no place in really good cookery, the ruling principle of which should always be simplicity.1203—NOIX DE VEAU FROIDEA LA CAUCASIENNECut a cold cushion of veal into slices two inches long by one-half inch wide by one-sixth inch thick.[402]On each slice spread a little butter seasoned with salt and pepper, combined with finely-chopped chives and anchovy fillets cut into dice.Couple the slices together as for sandwiches; round off their angles and put them under slight pressure. Prepare a Purée of tomatoes with jelly; mould it in a dome- or Bombe-mould, and let it set on ice.When this moulding of tomatoes is quite firm, turn it out in the middle of a round, cold dish; arrange the meat slices all round, and border the dish with cubes of very clear veal jelly.1204—NOIX DE VEAU FROIDEA LA SUÉDOISE(1) From the widest part of a cold cushion of veal, cut a lateral slice one and one-third inch thick, and trim it nicely round.(2) Let a coating of aspic jelly set on the bottom of a round dish, and upon this jelly, when it is quite firm, lay the slice of veal.(3) Cut what remains of the piece of veal into slices two inches long, by one and one-half inch broad, by one-eighth inch thick. Prepare the same number of rectangles of salted tongue, of the same size, though slightly thinner than those of veal.(4) Cohere a nice vegetable salad with cleared mayonnaise; mould it in an oiled, Bombe-shaped or narrow pyramid mould, and put it on ice to set.Coat the rectangles of veal with horse-radish butter; place a rectangle of tongue on each, and finish off these sandwiches by rounding their corners.For Dishing.—By means of a piping-bag fitted with a grooved pipe, garnish the edges of the slice of veal with a thread of previously softened butter.Turn out the vegetable salad in the centre of the piece of meat; set on it the heart of a small lettuce (nicely opened), and arrange the veal and tongue sandwiches all round.Serve a cold sauce, derived from the mayonnaise, separately.1205—LONGES, CARRÉSET NOIX DE VEAU FROIDSWhat was said in respect of cold saddle of veal likewise applies to the different pieces mentioned in the above title. They may be coated with aspic jelly and dished withMacédoinesof vegetables, cohered with jelly; small salads, cohered with cleared mayonnaise; garnished artichoke-bottoms, &c.The dishes should always be bordered with cubes of very clear jelly.[403]1206—FRICANDEAU (Relevé)Fricandeau is a lateral cut from the cushion of veal; that is to say, a piece cut with the grain of the meat. It should not be thicker than one and one-half inches.After beating it with a beater or the flat of a chopper, to break the fibres of the meat, finely lard the piece of meat on the cut side with strips of bacon, somewhat smaller than those used for fillet of beef. Only when the piece is larded may it be called “Fricandeau”; for, when not treated thus, it is nothing else than an ordinary piece of veal. Fricandeau is invariably braised; but it differs from other braisings of white meat in this, namely, that it must be so cooked as to be easily cut with a spoon. Connoisseurs maintain that Fricandeau should never be touched with a knife.It is glazed at the last moment, like other braisings, and, in view of its prolonged cooking, should be dished with great care.All the garnishes enumerated for cushion of veal may be adapted to Fricandeau.1207—FRICANDEAU FROIDCold fricandeau constitutes an excellent luncheon dish. It is dished and surrounded with its braising-liquor, cleared of grease and strained. This braising-liquor sets to a jelly, and is the finest adjunct to fricandeau that could be found.The piece may be glazed with half-melted jelly, smeared over it by means of a brush.1208—POITRINE DE VEAU FARCIEThis is really a family dish, admirably suited for a luncheon relevé. It is accompanied chiefly by vegetable purées, but all the vegetable and other garnishes given under Cushion of Veal may be served with it.Breast of veal is preparedthus:—After having boned the piece, open it where it is thickest, without touching the ends. A kind of pocket is thus obtained, into which put the previously-prepared stuffing, taking care to spread it very evenly.Now, with coarse cotton, sew up the opening, and remember to withdraw the cotton when the piece is cooked.Stuffing for Breast of Veal.—For a piece weighing four lbs., add to one lb. of very fine sausage-meat (No.196), two oz. of dryduxelles, two oz. of butter, a pinch of chopped parsley, tarragon and chives, a small beaten egg, and a little salt and pepper.Cooking.—Breast of veal is usually braised; the moistening[404]should be short and the cooking process gentle. For a piece weighing four lbs. when stuffed, allow three hours in a moderate and regular oven. Glaze breast of veal at the last moment, as in the case of other braised meats.1209—TÊTE DE VEAU (Relevé and Entrée)Nowadays, calf’s head is rarely served whole, as was the custom formerly. Still more rarely, however, is it served at a dinner of any importance; and it has now, by almost general consent, been relegated to luncheon menus where, indeed, it has found its proper place.After having boned the head, soak it or hold it under a running tap, for a sufficiently long time to allow of its being entirely cleared of blood. Then,blanchit for a good half-hour; cool it in cold water; drain it, and rub it with a piece of lemon to avoid its blackening.If it is to be cooked whole, as sometimes happens, wrap it in a napkin, that it may be easily handled; if not, cut it into pieces. In either case, plunge it immediately into a boilingblanc(No.167).With a view of keeping the calf’s head from contact with the air, which would blacken it, cover it with a napkin, or cover the liquid with chopped suet. A layer of chopped suet is the best possible means of keeping the air from the calf’s head.Whatever be the method of serving calf’s head, it is the rule to send slices of tongue and collops of brain to the table with it.The tongue may be cooked simultaneously with the head, and the brain is poached as described under No.1289.1210—TÊTE DE VEAUA L’ANGLAISECalf’s headà l’anglaiseis cooked in ablanc, as explained above; but in halves and unboned.Dish it on a napkin with sprays of very green parsley and a piece of boiled bacon.Send a sauceboat of parsley sauce (No.119a) to the table at the same time.1211—TÊTE DE VEAUA LA FINANCIÈRECook the calf’s head in ablancas already directed. Suppress portions of the meat, where the latter is thick, in such wise as to leave only a very little on the skin.Cut offpieces into squares of one, two or three in. side;[405]put them in a timbale, and cover them with a financière garnish; adding a few small slices of tongue and brain.1212—TÊTE DE VEAUA LA POULETTECook the calf’s head in ablanc.Cut the pieces of the head into small slices, somewhat aslant, and toss them into a previously-prepared poulette sauce (No.101).Dish in a timbale, and sprinkle with a pinch of chopped parsley.1213—TÊTE DE VEAU EN TORTUEWith a round cutter one, two, or three in. in diameter, cut up the pieces of calf’s head, the meat of which must be entirely suppressed. For this preparation, only the skin of the head should be used.Put the pieces of head in a timbale or on a dish, and cover them with a Tortue garnish.Tortue garnish consists of: Small quenelles of veal forcemeat with butter; cock’s combs and kidneys; small mushrooms; stoned, stuffed and poached olives; slices of truffle; gherkins cut to the shape of olives (these should only be put into the sauce at the last moment); and Tortue sauce.This garnish comprises, besides, among unsauced ingredients: Slices of tongue and calf’s brain; small, trussed crayfish, cooked incourt-bouillon; fried eggs, the half of whose raw whites should be suppressed; and smallcroûtonsof bread-crumb, fried in butter at the last moment.1214—TÊTE DE VEAUA LA VINAIGRETTEOUA L’HUILESet the boiling pieces of calf’s head on a napkin, lying on a dish. Surround them with slices of tongue, collops of brain, and sprigs of very green, curled-leaf parsley.Serve separately, on a hors-d’œuvre dish, without mixing them, capers, chopped onion and parsley.Send to the table at the same time a sauceboat of vinaigrette or sauce à l’huile, prepared by mixing one part of vinegar, two parts of oil, and one part of the calf’s-head cooking-liquor, together with the necessary salt and pepper.1215—ESCALOPES DE VEAUCollops of veal may be cut from either the fillet or the saddle; but they are more often cut from the cushion. Their weight varies from three to four oz., and they should always be cleared of all connective tissue. They may be fashioned to the shape of ovals, or curve-based triangles, and they should[406]be more or less flattened, according to their use. Thus, when they are to be plainly tossed, to be afterwards served with a sauced garnish or with a sauce, they are simply beaten in order to break the fibres of the meat, without flattening the latter too much; but if, on the contrary, they are to be treatedà l’anglaise, they should be beaten very thin with the moistened beater.In either case, they should be cooked somewhat quickly in clarified butter; for, if their cooking lag at all, their meat hardens.All the garnishes of veal cutlets, and a large number of those of the cushion, may be served with the collops. These garnishes may be set on the same dish with the collops when the latter are plainly tossed; but, in the case of collops treatedà l’anglaise, the garnish or sauce which accompanies them should be served separately, lest its moisture soften the crisp coating of the collops.1216—GRENADINSGrenadins are veal collops larded with rows of very thin bacon strips, and cut somewhat thicker than ordinary collops. They are really small fricandeaux, the braising of which is a comparatively lengthy operation; for their cooking must be the same as that of the fricandeaux, and needs quite as much attention. In order that the grenadins be not too dry, they should be frequently basted with their braising-liquor.When they are cooked, glaze them rapidly, and dish them with one of the garnishes given for the cushion of veal.1217—GRENADINS FROIDS EN BELLEVUEThis dish may be prepared in several more or less complicated ways; here is a simpleway:—Take as many shell-shaped hors-d’œuvre dishes as there are grenadins. Let a thin coat of jelly set on the bottom of each, and set thereon a slight decoration composed of bits of carrot, turnip, peas, French beans in lozenge-form, &c. Put a grenadin, larded side undermost (i.e., upside down) into each hors-d’œuvre dish; add enough melted aspic jelly to reach half-way up the thickness of the grenadin.When this jelly has set, lay on it, all round the grenadin, a border consisting of carrots, turnips, French beans and peas. Sprinkle these vegetables with a few drops of jelly, so as to fix them, and keep them from floating, and then fill up the hors-d’œuvre dishes with jelly.When about to serve, dip the hors-d’œuvre dishes into hot[407]water; turn out the grenadins on a very cold dish, and arrange them on it to form a crown.Surround with a border of very clear, chopped aspic jelly.1218—RIS DE VEAU (Sweetbreads)Veal sweetbreads may be looked upon as one of the greatest delicacies in butchers’ meats, and may be served at any dinner, however sumptuous. Select them very white, entirely free of blood stains, and leave them to soak in fresh water, which should be frequently changed, for as long as possible; or, better still, place them under a running tap.Toblanchthem (an operation the purpose of which is to harden the surface) put them in a saucepan with enough cold water to cover them completely, and bring to the boil gently. Let them boil for ten minutes; withdraw them and plunge them into a basin of fresh water.When the sweetbreads are cold, trim them; that is to say, cut away all cartilaginous and connective tissue; lay them between two pieces of linen, and put them under a light weight for two hours.Now lard them with fine bacon, tongue or truffle, subject to the way in which they are to be served. They may also be studded with either tongue or truffles, or they may be left unlarded and unstudded, and plainly braised, just as they are.Certain it is, that neither studding nor larding enhances in any way whatsoever their quality or sightliness.Veal sweetbread consists of two parts, as unequal in quality as in shape. They are: the “kernel” or heart sweetbread, which is the round and most delicate part, and the “throat,” or throat sweetbread, which is the elongated part, and not of such fine quality as the former.In a well-ordered dinner, heart sweetbreads only should be used, as far as possible.There are three ways of cooking sweetbreads,viz.:—Braising (No.248), poaching (No.249), and grilling (No.259). In the following recipes, therefore, the reader will kindly refer to the directions given under one of the numbers just mentioned, according as to whether the dish is to be a braising, a poaching, or a grill.1219—ATTEREAUX DE RIS DE VEAUA LA VILLEROYCut some veal sweetbreads (preferably the throat kind) into roundels one and one-third in. in diameter and one-third in. thick. Prepare an equal number of mushrooms and truffle roundels, somewhat thinner than those of sweetbread.[408]Impale these roundels on little wooden skewers, the size of matches, and about four in. long; alternating the different products in so doing. Dip these skewers into a Villeroy sauce, and set them on a dish. When the sauce is quite cold, remove the attereaux; clear them of any superfluous sauce that may have fallen on to the dish; dip them in ananglaise(No.174); roll them in very fine and fresh bread-crumbs, and turn them with the fingers, so as to shape them like small cylinders. Plunge them into plenty of hot fat eight minutes before serving; drain them on a piece of linen; carefully withdraw the wooden skewers and put little silver ones in their place. Dish the attereaux on a folded napkin, with fried parsley in the centre; or set them upright in a circle, on a rice or semolina cushion lying on a dish, and put some very green, fried parsley in the middle.Serve a Périgueux sauce separately.1220—CHARTREUSE DE RIS DE VEAUPrepare (1) one and one-quarter lbs. of fine forcemeat with cream (No.194); (2) two poached, veal throat sweetbreads, cut into slices; (3) one-half lb. of cooked mushrooms, cut into large slices, and three oz. of sliced truffles; (4) a garnish of carrots and turnips, raised by means of a tube- or spoon-cutter, or cut into grooved roundels two-thirds inch in diameter; and peas and French beans. Each of these vegetables should be cooked in a way befitting its nature, and kept somewhat firm.Liberally butter a quart Charlotte-mould. Line its bottom and sides with the vegetables, arranged in alternate and vari-coloured rows, and spread thereon a layer of forcemeat, one-half inch thick.This done, set upon the layer of forcemeat just spread, another of slices of sweetbread, mushrooms, and truffles; cover the whole with a coat of forcemeat; start the operation again with a litter of sweetbread, mushroom, and truffle slices, and proceed as before until the mould is filled. Finish with a layer of forcemeat. Cover with a round piece of buttered paper, and set to poach in abain-marieand in the oven, for from forty-five to fifty minutes.When taking thechartreuseout of thebain-marie, let it stand for seven or eight minutes, that the ingredients inside may settle a little, and then turn it out in the middle of a round dish; place a large, cooked, grooved, and very white mushroom on the top of it, and encircle its base with a crown of small braised and well-trimmed half-lettuces.[409]Send to the table, separately, a sauceboat of Velouté flavoured with mushroom essence.1221—RIS DE VEAU BONNE MAMANCut the vegetables intended for the braising stock into a short and coarsejulienne, and add thereto an equal quantity of similarly-cut celery.Braise the veal sweetbreads with thisjulienne, after the manner described under No.248, and moisten with excellent veal stock. Take particular care of the vegetables, that they do not burn.When the sweetbreads are ready, glaze them and dish them in a shallow, roundcocottewith thejulienneof vegetables and the braising-liquor all round.Cover thecocotte, and serve it on a folded napkin.1222—CRÉPINETTEDE RIS DE VEAUFor this dish take either some white throat sweetbreads, or some remains of the latter, from which slices have already been cut.Chop up the throat sweetbreads or the remains, together with their weight of raw calf’s udder.Season with one-half oz. of salt and a pinch of pepper; add five oz. of chopped truffles and two whole eggs per lb. of the mince-meat. Mix the whole well; divide it up into portions weighing three oz., and wrap each portion in a piece of very soft pig’s caul.Sprinkle with melted butter and bread-crumbs, and grill gently.Dish in the form of a crown, and serve a Périgueux sauce at the same time.1223—RIS DE VEAUA LA CÉVENOLEBraise the veal sweetbreads and glaze them at the last moment.Dish them with a heap of small glazed onions at either end, and serve, at the same time, a purée of chestnuts and a sauceboat of thickened gravy.1224—RIS DE VEAU DEMIDOFFLard the sweetbreads with bacon and truffles; braise them brown, and only half-cook them. Then place them in a shallowcocotte, and surround them with the followinggarnish:—Two oz. of carrots and the same weight of turnips, both cut into grooved crescents; an equal quantity of small onions, cut into large roundels, and some celery cutpaysanne-fashion. All these vegetables should be first stewed in butter.[410]Add the braising-liquor of the sweetbreads, and one oz. of minced truffles, and complete the cooking of the former. Clear of all grease and serve in thecocotte.1225—ESCALOPES DE RIS DE VEAU BÉRENGÈREBraise the veal sweetbreads and cut each piece into four medium-sized slices. Trim each slice with an even, oval fancy-cutter; and, by means of a piping-bag fitted with an even pipe, one-sixth inch in diameter, garnish the edge of each slice with a thick border ofmousselineforcemeat, combined with chopped salted tongue. Set the slices on a tray, and put them in a moderate oven to poach the forcemeat.Now, by means of another piping-bag fitted with a grooved pipe, garnish the centre of the slices with a nice rosette of fine and very white Soubise purée; and, in the middle of each rosette, place a little ball of very black truffle.Set each slice on a thin, ovalcroûtonof the same size as the former and fried in butter. Serve at the same time, in a sauceboat, the braising-liquor of the sweetbreads, cleared of all grease, and a timbale of fresh peas.1226—ESCALOPES DE RIS DE VEAUA LA FAVORITEBlanchthe veal sweetbreads; cool them under pressure, and cut them into slices. Season the latter and toss them in clarified butter.At the same time, toss an equal number of slices of foie gras of the same size as those of the sweetbread, after having seasoned and dredged them.Dish in a circle, alternating the foie gras and the sweetbread slices; put a crown of sliced truffle on the circle already arranged; and, in the centre, pour a garnish of asparagus-heads cohered with butter.Send, separately, a Madeira sauce flavoured with truffle essence.1227—ESCALOPES DE RIS DE VEAU GRAND DUCBlanchand cool the sweetbreads, and cut them into slices. Season the latter and cook them in butter without colouration. Dish them in the form of a crown, placing a large slice of truffle between each; coat with Mornay sauce, and glaze quickly.When taking the dish out of the oven, arrange a heap of asparagus-heads cohered with butter, in the middle of the dish, and serve instantly.[411]1228—ESCALOPES DE RIS DE VEAU JUDICBlanchand cool the sweetbreads, and cut them into slices.Prepare and poach a roll of chicken forcemeat, large enough to allow of slices being cut therefrom of the same size as those of the sweetbreads.Season, dredge, and toss the slices of sweetbread in butter, and dish them in the form of a crown, each on a roundel of the poached chicken forcemeat.On each slice place a very small, braised, and well-trimmed lettuce, a slice of truffle, and a cock’s kidney.Send a sauceboat of thickened gravy separately.1229—ESCALOPES DE RIS DE VEAUA LA MARÉCHALEBraise the veal sweetbreads, keeping them somewhat firm, and cut them into slices.Treat the latterà l’anglaise; brown them in clarified butter, and dish them in a circle, placing a fine slice of truffle between each.In the middle of the dish arrange a fine heap of asparagus-heads cohered with butter.1230—RIS DE VEAU GRILLÉSAfter havingblanched, cooked, and trimmed the sweetbreads, set them to get quite cold under pressure. Then cut them in two, laterally, at their thickest point; dip each piece into melted butter, and grill gently, basting frequently the while with melted butter.The sweetbreads may also be grilled whole, but the process is perforce a more lengthy one.1231—RIS DE VEAU GRILLÉSCARMAGOCook a brioche, without sugar, in a fluted mould, the aperture of which is a little larger than the veal sweetbreads. Carefully remove the top of the brioche, following the direction of the fluting, and withdraw all the crumb from the inside.Fill this kind ofcroustade, two-thirds full, with a garnish consisting of peas, prepared “à la française,” and carrots “à la Vichy,” in equal quantities.Set the grilled veal sweetbreads on this garnish, and cover it with slices of grilled bacon.Dish on a napkin and serve at once.1232—RIS DE VEAU GRILLÉGISMONDAPrepare a shallowcroustade, without colouration, in an oval flawn ring of the same length as the veal sweetbread. Grill the veal sweetbread after the manner already described.[412]Garnish the bottom of thecroustadewith equal quantities of artichoke-bottoms and mushrooms, minced raw, tossed in butter, and cohered with cream sauce.Set the grilled sweetbread on the garnish, and place thecroustadeon a folded napkin.Serve, separately, a slightly buttered meat-glaze.1233—RIS DE VEAU GRILLÉJOCELYNECut some potatoes into roundels one and one-half inch thick and of the same size as the veal sweetbread. Stamp the roundels, close up to their edges, with a round, even cutter, and cook them in butter. Grill the sweetbread at the same time.When the potatoes are cooked, withdraw all their inside in such wise as to give them the appearance of cases, and fill them with Soubise prepared with curry.Dish them and set the grilled sweetbread upon them. On the sweetbread lay a small half-tomato and a green half-capsicum, both grilled.1234—RIS DE VEAU GRILLÉSSAINT-GERMAINBlanch, prepare, and grill the veal sweetbreads as already explained. Set them on a long dish, and surround them with alternate heaps of small potatoes cooked in butter and of a nice golden colour, and carrots cut to the shape of elongated olives, cooked in consommé and glazed.Serve a Béarnaise sauce and a purée of fresh peas, separately.1235—RIS DE VEAU DES GOURMETSBraise the veal sweetbreads, and, as soon as they are ready, set them in a round, flatcocotte, just large enough to hold them. Cover them with raw truffles, cut into thick slices; strain the braising-liquor over the whole; cover thecocotte, and seal the cover to the edges of the utensil by means of a thread of soft paste, made simply from a mixture of flour and water.The object of this last precaution is to prevent any escape whatsoever of steam, and to hold the aroma of the truffles within.Put thecocotteinto a very hot oven for ten minutes; set it on a dish, and serve it as it stands. The cover should be removed only when the dish reaches the table.1236—RIS DE VEAU AUX QUEUES D’ÉCREVISSESStud the sweetbreads with truffle and braise them without colouration. Dish them, and, on either side, set a heap of crayfishes’ tails (in the proportion of four to each person), cohered with cream.[413]At either end place some crayfishes’ carapaces (in the proportion of two to each sweetbread), garnished with chicken forcemeat combined with crayfish butter, and poached.Serve, separately, an Allemande sauce prepared with crayfish butter.1237—RIS DE VEAUA LA RÉGENCEStud the sweetbreads with truffles, and braise them without colouration.Dish them; pour their reduced braising-liquor round the dish, and surround them with a Régence garnish, arranged in alternate heaps representing the constituents of the former, which are: quenelles of fine truffled chicken forcemeat; small grooved mushrooms; curled cocks’ combs, and truffles cut to the shape of olives. Serve separately an Allemande sauce, flavoured with truffle essence.1238—RIS DE VEAU SOUS LA CENDREStud the veal sweetbreads with truffles and tongue, and three-parts braise them.Cut some slices of salted tongue of the same size as the sweetbreads, garnish them with slices of truffle, and set a sweetbread on each.Cover each sweetbread with a layer of short paste (No.2358); set them on a tray;gild; flute; make a small incision on the top of the paste to allow the escape of steam, and bake in a hot oven for thirty minutes.When withdrawing them from the oven, pour in some half-glaze sauce with Madeira, and dish them on a napkin.1239—RIS DE VEAUA LA TOULOUSAINEStud the sweetbreads with truffles and braise them without colouration.Dish them with the Toulousaine garnish, arranged in heaps all round, and surround the latter with a thread of meat-glaze.Toulousaine garnishcomprises small chicken-forcemeat quenelles; cocks’ combs and kidneys; very white button-mushroom heads, and slices of truffle.Serve, separately, an Allemande flavoured with mushroom essence.1240—CROUSTADE DE RIS DE VEAUA LA FINANCIÈREPrepare (1) the required number of small, flutedcroustades, baked without colouration in rather large tartlet moulds. (2) The same number of slices of braised veal sweetbread as there arecroustades, and of the same size. (3) A financière garnish, consisting of very small chicken-forcemeat quenelles; grooved[414]button-mushrooms, and sliced cocks’ combs and kidneys. The whole covered by half-glaze with Madeira, in the proportion of one tablespoonful percroustade. (5) As many fine slices of truffle as there arecroustades.Put a tablespoonful of the garnish into eachcroustade; set thereon a slice of sweetbread; put a slice of truffle upon that, and dish thecroustadeson a folded napkin.
[394]2. VEAL.With the exception of veal sweetbreads, it cannot be denied that this meat is considerably less popular in England than abroad, nor does it ever seem to appear on important menus in this country.Of course, and the fact must not be lost sight of, English veal is admittedly inferior in quality—badly fattened, and mostly red, soft, and dry. Probably, therefore, its unpopularity may be the indirect cause of its poor quality; for it is inconceivable that a country so famous for cattle-rearing as England undoubtedly is could not produce veal equal in quality to its beef, mutton, and pork, if rearers thought it worth their while to perfect that special branch of their business. Be this as it may, almost all the best veal consumed in England comes from the Continent, principally from France, Belgium, and Holland; and, in this respect, I not only refer to the larger joints, but to those odd parts such as the head, the liver, the sweetbreads, &c., the continental quality of which is likewise very superior to that of the English produce.
With the exception of veal sweetbreads, it cannot be denied that this meat is considerably less popular in England than abroad, nor does it ever seem to appear on important menus in this country.
Of course, and the fact must not be lost sight of, English veal is admittedly inferior in quality—badly fattened, and mostly red, soft, and dry. Probably, therefore, its unpopularity may be the indirect cause of its poor quality; for it is inconceivable that a country so famous for cattle-rearing as England undoubtedly is could not produce veal equal in quality to its beef, mutton, and pork, if rearers thought it worth their while to perfect that special branch of their business. Be this as it may, almost all the best veal consumed in England comes from the Continent, principally from France, Belgium, and Holland; and, in this respect, I not only refer to the larger joints, but to those odd parts such as the head, the liver, the sweetbreads, &c., the continental quality of which is likewise very superior to that of the English produce.
Saddle of veal is the only Relevé of this meat which is sometimes allowed to appear on an important menu, and it is, in fact, a splendid and succulent joint.
It may be roasted, but I should urge the adoption of the braising treatment, not only as a precaution against dryness, but because of the fine stock yielded by the operation.
Whatever be the method of cooking, trim the saddle on one side, flush with the bones of the pelvis, and up to the first ribs on the other side. Then cut out the kidneys, leaving a thick layer of fat on the under fillets or “filets mignons”; pare the flank on either side, in such wise that what is left of it, when drawn under the saddle on either side, may just cover the fillets above referred to. This flank should only be drawn over the fillets after the inside of the joint has been salted; then cover the top surface of the joint with slices of bacon, and tie round with string, five or six times, that the bacon and the flank may not shift.
When the saddle is intended for only a small number of people, half of it may be used at a time; that is to say, one fillet, in which case the joint may be cut in two, lengthwise.
The procedure for braising this piece is in pursuance of the directions given under “The Braising of White Meats” (No.248).
[395]The process of braising, whether it be in respect of the saddle or other veal Relevés, such as the cushion, the loin, the neck, &c., demands particular care, must be accompanied by frequent basting, and should always be carried on with short moistening.
Braise the saddle, and glaze it at the last moment, after having removed the slices of bacon. Set it on a long dish, and, at each end of the latter, place achartreuseof vegetables.
Round the joint put a few tablespoonfuls of the braising-liquor, cleared of all grease, reduced, and well-strained; and serve what remains in a sauceboat.
Chartreuses of Vegetables.—Take two dome- or Charlotte-moulds, capable of holding two-thirds of a quart. Butter them liberally; line them with buttered paper, and on the latter, over the bottom and sides of the utensil, lay carrots, turnips, peas, and French beans; each of which vegetables should be cooked in a way suited to its nature. This operation, which is somewhat finicking, may either be effected on the plan of a draught-board, or the different vegetables may be superposed in alternate rows of varying colours.
When the moulds are garnished in this way, spread thereon, over the vegetables, a layer of forcemeat softened with beaten white of egg; the object of this measure is to keep the vegetable decoration in position, and this is effected by the poaching of the forcemeat before the chartreuse is filled with its garnish.
This done, fill the moulds to within one-third inch of their brims with aMacédoineof vegetables cohered by means of stiff Béchamel and cream, and cover with a layer of forcemeat.
Set these chartreuses to poach thirty-five minutes before serving, and take care to let them rest for five minutes before unmoulding them on either side of the saddle.
Braise the saddle, and, when it is ready, put it on a dish. Now draw a line within one-half inch of its extreme edge on either side and end, pressing the point of a small knife along the meat in so doing.
Proceed in the same way on either side of the chine, and remove the fillets from the joint, severing them from the bone with care.
Cut the fillets into regular collops, keeping the knife somewhat at a slant.
In the double cavity left by the fillets spread a few tablespoonfuls of Béchamel with paprika; return the colloped fillets[396]to their respective places in the joint, reconstructing them in such wise as to make them appear untouched; and between the collops pour one-half tablespoonful of Béchamel and lay two slices of truffle.
This done, cover the whole surface of the joint with Béchamel sauce with paprika, and set to glaze quickly at the salamander. Now, with a large slice, carefully transfer the saddle to a dish.
Serve separately (1) the braising-liquor of the saddle, cleared of all grease and reduced; (2) a timbale of pilaff rice.
Braise the saddle. When it is ready, remove the fillets, proceeding exactly as described under “Selle à la Metternich,” and cut the fillets in a similar manner.
In the cavities left by the fillets spread a few tablespoonfuls of Soubise; return the colloped fillets to their place, and, between the collops, place a thin slice of ham, of the same size and shape as the adjacent piece of meat, and a little Soubise sauce.
Having reconstructed the joint, cover its surface with a layer, about one inch thick, of “Soufflé au Parmesan,” combined with one quart of truffle purée.
Bind the joint with a strong band of buttered paper, for the purpose of holding in thesoufflé, and set it to cook in a moderate oven for fifteen minutes. After having taken the saddle out of the oven, remove the paper band, and send it to the table without changing the dish.
Send the braising-liquor, cleared of all grease, reduced and strained, to the table separately.
Braise the saddle; remove the fillets, and cut them into collops as for “Selle à la Metternich.” Garnish the cavities with Soubise sauce “au currie”; reconstruct the fillets, putting a little of the same sauce between the collops, and coat the surface of the piece with the sauce already referred to.
Surround the joint with braised celery, and serve its cooking liquor and a timbale of pilaff rice separately.
Braise the saddle, and cut the fillets into collops as before. When reconstructing the fillets, between the collops put a little Béchamel sauce, combined with three and one-half oz. of grated Parmesan and three and one-half oz. of grated white truffles per quart of the sauce.
[397]Coat the surface of the joint with the same sauce, and set to glaze quickly.
Serve the braising-liquor, cleared of all grease and strained, separately; as also a timbale of rizotto à la Piémontaise (No.2258).
Braise the saddle and proceed as above, placing between the collops of fillet a little Soubise sauce and a fine slice of truffle.
Coat the surface of the joint with Mornay sauce, combined with one quart of highly-seasoned Soubise, and set to glaze quickly.
N.B.—This saddle may be accompanied either by a garnish of asparagus-heads or by cucumbers with cream.
Braise the saddle; remove the fillets, and cut the latter into collops as for “Selle à la Metternich.” Reconstruct the fillets, placing a small quantity of minced mushrooms, cohered by means of a few tablespoonfuls of cream, between the collops, and coat the surface of the joint with highly-seasoned Béchamel sauce, finished with four oz. of crayfish butter per quart.
Surround the piece with a border of braised half-fennels. Serve the braising-liquor, cleared of all grease, reduced and strained, separately.
Braise the saddle, and then prepare it as for No.1183. Almost completely fill the cavities left by the fillets with a garnish of macaroni, cut into short lengths, cohered with cream, and combined with ajulienneof truffles.
Reconstruct the fillets upon this garnish and coat the collops with Mornay sauce, placing a slice of truffle between the collops. The reconstructed fillets thus appear raised on either side of the chine.
Coat the surface of the joint with the same sauce as that already used, and set to glaze quickly. Send the braising-liquor, cleared of all grease and strained, to the table separately.
Braise the saddle, and glaze it at the last moment. Dish it and surround it with a large heap of cauliflower at either end; on either side, nice heaps of carrots and turnips, raised by means of an oval, grooved spoon-cutter, cooked in consommé and glazed; peas; French beans in lozenge-form; asparagus-heads[398]cohered with butter; and some small potatoes cooked in butter.
Send the braising-liquor of the joint, cleared of grease and strained, separately.
Prepare twenty studs of truffle, about one inch long and one-third oz. in weight. Stick them upright and symmetrically into the meat of the joint, making way for them by means of little incisions cut with a small knife. Now envelop the joint in slices of larding bacon, string it, braise it, and glaze it at the last moment.
Dish it with some of its braising-liquor, cleared of all grease and reduced.
Serve separately (1) what remains of the braising-liquor; (2) a garnish of macaroni, cut into half-inch lengths, cohered with one and one-half oz. of butter, three oz. of grated Gruyère and Parmesan, combined with three oz. of foie gras, cut into large dice, and three oz. of ajulienneof truffles, per lb. of macaroni.
Cold saddle of veal makes an excellent sideboard dish which admits of all cold-dish garnishes, such asMacédoinesof vegetables cohered with jelly or mayonnaise sauce; artichoke-bottoms and tomatoes, variously garnished; small, moulded vegetable salads, &c.
Decorate it with fine, regular, jelly dice; but its usual and essential adjunct is its own braising-liquor, cooked, cleared of grease poured carefully away, and served in a sauceboat without having been either clarified or cleared.
All the pieces of veal given as relevés, the cushion, the loin, the fillet, and the fricandeau, may be served cold like the saddle, and are generally much appreciated, more particularly in summer.
I have grouped these various Relevés together owing to the identicalness of their garnishes.
The directions I give below for cushion of veal are, with a very few exceptions which I shall point out, applicable to all other large veal joints. In the circumstances, therefore, it would be quite unnecessary to repeat the recipe in each case.
[399]Loin of Vealis that piece which corresponds with the sirloin in beef. It extends from the floating ribs to the extreme end of the haunch, the latter being cut flush with the pelvic bone at its junction with the femur, and following the direction of the former bone. The loin thus consists of two distinctparts:—(1) the caudal region (called the chump end; Fr. quasi), which comprises the bones of the pelvis and the haunch, up to the level of the latter, and is one of the best pieces of veal for braising; and (2) the region extending from the haunch to the floating ribs, comprising the fillet and the upper fillet. This last portion also constitutes a choice joint, to which the kidneys are generally left attached, after all their superfluous fat has been removed.
Neck or Best End of Vealconsists of the first eight or nine ribs, cut two inches above the kernel of meat. The ends of the rib-bones are cleared of meat to a height of about two-thirds inch, and the naked bone is then called the “handle” of the cutlet, which ultimately holds the ornamental frill of paper.
The vertebræ are then suppressed, so that the bones of the ribs alone remain; the yellow ligament is cut away; and the bared parts are covered with slices of bacon, tied on by means of string.
Cushion of Vealconsists of an enormous muscle, which represents almost half of the haunch and all the inside part of it, from the pelvis to its junction with the tibia. A certain quantity of white fat will always be found to lie over the cushion, and it should be carefully reserved.
If the cushion is to be larded, a procedure which I do not advise, it should be done on the bared part adjoining the fat-covered region.
The various pieces of veal enumerated above may be roasted, but, as in the case of the saddle, I prefer braising, owing to the greater succulence of the dish resulting from this process, and its accompanying gravy, which has an incomparable flavour. (See Braising of White Meats, No.248.)
Cushion of veal, like the other large pieces of veal, admits of an almost unlimited number of vegetable garnishes, simple or compound, as also garnishes of various pastes.
From among these garnishes the following may be quoted,viz.:—Bouquetière, Bourgeoise,Chartreuse, Choisy, Chicorée, Cardoons, Clamart, Braised Celery, Japanese Artichokes, Chow-chow, Endives, Spinach, Braised Lettuce, à la Vichy, à la Nemours, &c.; Jardinière,Macédoine, Renaissance, &c.
[400]Among the pastegarnishes:—Noodles, Macaroni, Spaghetti, variously prepared; various Gnocchi, &c.
And, in addition to all these, the garnishes already given under Beef Relevés, which need not be repeated here.
I shall, therefore, give only three recipes which are proper to cushion of veal; though even these should be regarded as mere curiosities, seeing that, far from recommending them, I consider them rather as gastronomical mistakes. But some provision must be made for outlandish tastes, and, for this reason alone, I include the following recipes.
Braise the cushion of veal, keeping it somewhat firm. This done, set it on a dish, and let it almost cool.
Then cut a slice from it laterally, at a point one-third inch of its height from the top; and, within one-half inch of its edges, make a circular incision, pressing the point of a sharp knife into the meat, and withdraw the centre of the cushion. Take care to leave the same thickness of meat on the sides as on the bottom, that is to say, about one-half inch. The cushion of veal, thus emptied, should have the appearance of a round or oval case.
If the meat withdrawn from the centre of the cushion is to serve for the garnish, or is to be used sliced to surround the case, cut it from out the whole in the largest possible pieces, in order that slices may easily be cut therefrom.
The inside of the emptied cushion of veal is then garnished according to fancy; the top of the piece that was cut off at the start is returned to its place, with the view of giving the piece an untouched appearance, and the whole is put in the oven for a few minutes that it may be hot for serving.
The braising-liquor, cleared of grease and strained, should be sent to the table separately.
Braise the cushion of veal, and hollow it out as explained above.
Meanwhile (1) prepare aMacédoinegarnish, or mixedJardinière(cohered with butter or cream), the quantity of which should be in proportion to the size of the case; (2) cut the meat, withdrawn from the centre of the cushion, into thin rectangles.
Garnish the bottom of the case with a layer ofMacédoine, and set thereon a litter consisting of the rectangles of meat. Cover withMacédoine; set thereon another litter of the pieces[401]of meat, and renew the operation until the case is filled. Finish up with a layer ofMacédoine.
Replace the slice cut from the cushion at the start; put the case in the oven for a few minutes; serve, and send the braising-liquor separately.
Braise the cushion of veal, and prepare the case as directed above.
Stuff fifteen larks without boning them; that is to say, put a lump of stuffing about the size of a hazel-nut into each. Fry them in butter with one-half lb. of mushrooms and three oz. of truffles, each of which vegetables should be raw and minced. Cohere the whole with the necessary quantity of half-glaze sauce, flavoured with game essence; put this garnish in the case; return the sliced piece to its place; seal the cover to the case by means of a thread of almost liquid forcemeat, and set in the oven for seven or eight minutes.
When taking the case out of the oven, surround with the withdrawn meat, which should have been cut into thin slices and kept warm until required for the dressing.
The larks may be replaced by quails or thrushes, or other small birds, but the name of the particular bird used must be referred to in the title of the dish.
Braise the cushion and cut it to the shape of a case as explained above. Pour therein a garnish consisting of quenelles of chicken forcemeat; lamb sweetbreads, or collops of veal sweetbreads, braised without colouration; cocks’ combs; small mushrooms, cooked and very white; and slices of truffle; the whole to be cohered by means of an Allemande sauce, flavoured with mushroom essence.
Return the piece sliced off at the start to its place, and surround with slices of the meat withdrawn from the inside of the cushion.
N.B.—All the garnishes suited to Vol-au-vent and timbales may be served with cushion-of-veal case, which latter thus stands in the stead of the Vol-au-vent and Timbale crusts.
Finally, I must ask the reader to bear in mind that methods like those described above have no place in really good cookery, the ruling principle of which should always be simplicity.
Cut a cold cushion of veal into slices two inches long by one-half inch wide by one-sixth inch thick.
[402]On each slice spread a little butter seasoned with salt and pepper, combined with finely-chopped chives and anchovy fillets cut into dice.
Couple the slices together as for sandwiches; round off their angles and put them under slight pressure. Prepare a Purée of tomatoes with jelly; mould it in a dome- or Bombe-mould, and let it set on ice.
When this moulding of tomatoes is quite firm, turn it out in the middle of a round, cold dish; arrange the meat slices all round, and border the dish with cubes of very clear veal jelly.
(1) From the widest part of a cold cushion of veal, cut a lateral slice one and one-third inch thick, and trim it nicely round.
(2) Let a coating of aspic jelly set on the bottom of a round dish, and upon this jelly, when it is quite firm, lay the slice of veal.
(3) Cut what remains of the piece of veal into slices two inches long, by one and one-half inch broad, by one-eighth inch thick. Prepare the same number of rectangles of salted tongue, of the same size, though slightly thinner than those of veal.
(4) Cohere a nice vegetable salad with cleared mayonnaise; mould it in an oiled, Bombe-shaped or narrow pyramid mould, and put it on ice to set.
Coat the rectangles of veal with horse-radish butter; place a rectangle of tongue on each, and finish off these sandwiches by rounding their corners.
For Dishing.—By means of a piping-bag fitted with a grooved pipe, garnish the edges of the slice of veal with a thread of previously softened butter.
Turn out the vegetable salad in the centre of the piece of meat; set on it the heart of a small lettuce (nicely opened), and arrange the veal and tongue sandwiches all round.
Serve a cold sauce, derived from the mayonnaise, separately.
What was said in respect of cold saddle of veal likewise applies to the different pieces mentioned in the above title. They may be coated with aspic jelly and dished withMacédoinesof vegetables, cohered with jelly; small salads, cohered with cleared mayonnaise; garnished artichoke-bottoms, &c.
The dishes should always be bordered with cubes of very clear jelly.
Fricandeau is a lateral cut from the cushion of veal; that is to say, a piece cut with the grain of the meat. It should not be thicker than one and one-half inches.
After beating it with a beater or the flat of a chopper, to break the fibres of the meat, finely lard the piece of meat on the cut side with strips of bacon, somewhat smaller than those used for fillet of beef. Only when the piece is larded may it be called “Fricandeau”; for, when not treated thus, it is nothing else than an ordinary piece of veal. Fricandeau is invariably braised; but it differs from other braisings of white meat in this, namely, that it must be so cooked as to be easily cut with a spoon. Connoisseurs maintain that Fricandeau should never be touched with a knife.
It is glazed at the last moment, like other braisings, and, in view of its prolonged cooking, should be dished with great care.
All the garnishes enumerated for cushion of veal may be adapted to Fricandeau.
Cold fricandeau constitutes an excellent luncheon dish. It is dished and surrounded with its braising-liquor, cleared of grease and strained. This braising-liquor sets to a jelly, and is the finest adjunct to fricandeau that could be found.
The piece may be glazed with half-melted jelly, smeared over it by means of a brush.
This is really a family dish, admirably suited for a luncheon relevé. It is accompanied chiefly by vegetable purées, but all the vegetable and other garnishes given under Cushion of Veal may be served with it.
Breast of veal is preparedthus:—After having boned the piece, open it where it is thickest, without touching the ends. A kind of pocket is thus obtained, into which put the previously-prepared stuffing, taking care to spread it very evenly.
Now, with coarse cotton, sew up the opening, and remember to withdraw the cotton when the piece is cooked.
Stuffing for Breast of Veal.—For a piece weighing four lbs., add to one lb. of very fine sausage-meat (No.196), two oz. of dryduxelles, two oz. of butter, a pinch of chopped parsley, tarragon and chives, a small beaten egg, and a little salt and pepper.
Cooking.—Breast of veal is usually braised; the moistening[404]should be short and the cooking process gentle. For a piece weighing four lbs. when stuffed, allow three hours in a moderate and regular oven. Glaze breast of veal at the last moment, as in the case of other braised meats.
Nowadays, calf’s head is rarely served whole, as was the custom formerly. Still more rarely, however, is it served at a dinner of any importance; and it has now, by almost general consent, been relegated to luncheon menus where, indeed, it has found its proper place.
After having boned the head, soak it or hold it under a running tap, for a sufficiently long time to allow of its being entirely cleared of blood. Then,blanchit for a good half-hour; cool it in cold water; drain it, and rub it with a piece of lemon to avoid its blackening.
If it is to be cooked whole, as sometimes happens, wrap it in a napkin, that it may be easily handled; if not, cut it into pieces. In either case, plunge it immediately into a boilingblanc(No.167).
With a view of keeping the calf’s head from contact with the air, which would blacken it, cover it with a napkin, or cover the liquid with chopped suet. A layer of chopped suet is the best possible means of keeping the air from the calf’s head.
Whatever be the method of serving calf’s head, it is the rule to send slices of tongue and collops of brain to the table with it.
The tongue may be cooked simultaneously with the head, and the brain is poached as described under No.1289.
Calf’s headà l’anglaiseis cooked in ablanc, as explained above; but in halves and unboned.
Dish it on a napkin with sprays of very green parsley and a piece of boiled bacon.
Send a sauceboat of parsley sauce (No.119a) to the table at the same time.
Cook the calf’s head in ablancas already directed. Suppress portions of the meat, where the latter is thick, in such wise as to leave only a very little on the skin.
Cut offpieces into squares of one, two or three in. side;[405]put them in a timbale, and cover them with a financière garnish; adding a few small slices of tongue and brain.
Cook the calf’s head in ablanc.
Cut the pieces of the head into small slices, somewhat aslant, and toss them into a previously-prepared poulette sauce (No.101).
Dish in a timbale, and sprinkle with a pinch of chopped parsley.
With a round cutter one, two, or three in. in diameter, cut up the pieces of calf’s head, the meat of which must be entirely suppressed. For this preparation, only the skin of the head should be used.
Put the pieces of head in a timbale or on a dish, and cover them with a Tortue garnish.
Tortue garnish consists of: Small quenelles of veal forcemeat with butter; cock’s combs and kidneys; small mushrooms; stoned, stuffed and poached olives; slices of truffle; gherkins cut to the shape of olives (these should only be put into the sauce at the last moment); and Tortue sauce.
This garnish comprises, besides, among unsauced ingredients: Slices of tongue and calf’s brain; small, trussed crayfish, cooked incourt-bouillon; fried eggs, the half of whose raw whites should be suppressed; and smallcroûtonsof bread-crumb, fried in butter at the last moment.
Set the boiling pieces of calf’s head on a napkin, lying on a dish. Surround them with slices of tongue, collops of brain, and sprigs of very green, curled-leaf parsley.
Serve separately, on a hors-d’œuvre dish, without mixing them, capers, chopped onion and parsley.
Send to the table at the same time a sauceboat of vinaigrette or sauce à l’huile, prepared by mixing one part of vinegar, two parts of oil, and one part of the calf’s-head cooking-liquor, together with the necessary salt and pepper.
Collops of veal may be cut from either the fillet or the saddle; but they are more often cut from the cushion. Their weight varies from three to four oz., and they should always be cleared of all connective tissue. They may be fashioned to the shape of ovals, or curve-based triangles, and they should[406]be more or less flattened, according to their use. Thus, when they are to be plainly tossed, to be afterwards served with a sauced garnish or with a sauce, they are simply beaten in order to break the fibres of the meat, without flattening the latter too much; but if, on the contrary, they are to be treatedà l’anglaise, they should be beaten very thin with the moistened beater.
In either case, they should be cooked somewhat quickly in clarified butter; for, if their cooking lag at all, their meat hardens.
All the garnishes of veal cutlets, and a large number of those of the cushion, may be served with the collops. These garnishes may be set on the same dish with the collops when the latter are plainly tossed; but, in the case of collops treatedà l’anglaise, the garnish or sauce which accompanies them should be served separately, lest its moisture soften the crisp coating of the collops.
Grenadins are veal collops larded with rows of very thin bacon strips, and cut somewhat thicker than ordinary collops. They are really small fricandeaux, the braising of which is a comparatively lengthy operation; for their cooking must be the same as that of the fricandeaux, and needs quite as much attention. In order that the grenadins be not too dry, they should be frequently basted with their braising-liquor.
When they are cooked, glaze them rapidly, and dish them with one of the garnishes given for the cushion of veal.
This dish may be prepared in several more or less complicated ways; here is a simpleway:—
Take as many shell-shaped hors-d’œuvre dishes as there are grenadins. Let a thin coat of jelly set on the bottom of each, and set thereon a slight decoration composed of bits of carrot, turnip, peas, French beans in lozenge-form, &c. Put a grenadin, larded side undermost (i.e., upside down) into each hors-d’œuvre dish; add enough melted aspic jelly to reach half-way up the thickness of the grenadin.
When this jelly has set, lay on it, all round the grenadin, a border consisting of carrots, turnips, French beans and peas. Sprinkle these vegetables with a few drops of jelly, so as to fix them, and keep them from floating, and then fill up the hors-d’œuvre dishes with jelly.
When about to serve, dip the hors-d’œuvre dishes into hot[407]water; turn out the grenadins on a very cold dish, and arrange them on it to form a crown.
Surround with a border of very clear, chopped aspic jelly.
Veal sweetbreads may be looked upon as one of the greatest delicacies in butchers’ meats, and may be served at any dinner, however sumptuous. Select them very white, entirely free of blood stains, and leave them to soak in fresh water, which should be frequently changed, for as long as possible; or, better still, place them under a running tap.
Toblanchthem (an operation the purpose of which is to harden the surface) put them in a saucepan with enough cold water to cover them completely, and bring to the boil gently. Let them boil for ten minutes; withdraw them and plunge them into a basin of fresh water.
When the sweetbreads are cold, trim them; that is to say, cut away all cartilaginous and connective tissue; lay them between two pieces of linen, and put them under a light weight for two hours.
Now lard them with fine bacon, tongue or truffle, subject to the way in which they are to be served. They may also be studded with either tongue or truffles, or they may be left unlarded and unstudded, and plainly braised, just as they are.
Certain it is, that neither studding nor larding enhances in any way whatsoever their quality or sightliness.
Veal sweetbread consists of two parts, as unequal in quality as in shape. They are: the “kernel” or heart sweetbread, which is the round and most delicate part, and the “throat,” or throat sweetbread, which is the elongated part, and not of such fine quality as the former.
In a well-ordered dinner, heart sweetbreads only should be used, as far as possible.
There are three ways of cooking sweetbreads,viz.:—Braising (No.248), poaching (No.249), and grilling (No.259). In the following recipes, therefore, the reader will kindly refer to the directions given under one of the numbers just mentioned, according as to whether the dish is to be a braising, a poaching, or a grill.
Cut some veal sweetbreads (preferably the throat kind) into roundels one and one-third in. in diameter and one-third in. thick. Prepare an equal number of mushrooms and truffle roundels, somewhat thinner than those of sweetbread.
[408]Impale these roundels on little wooden skewers, the size of matches, and about four in. long; alternating the different products in so doing. Dip these skewers into a Villeroy sauce, and set them on a dish. When the sauce is quite cold, remove the attereaux; clear them of any superfluous sauce that may have fallen on to the dish; dip them in ananglaise(No.174); roll them in very fine and fresh bread-crumbs, and turn them with the fingers, so as to shape them like small cylinders. Plunge them into plenty of hot fat eight minutes before serving; drain them on a piece of linen; carefully withdraw the wooden skewers and put little silver ones in their place. Dish the attereaux on a folded napkin, with fried parsley in the centre; or set them upright in a circle, on a rice or semolina cushion lying on a dish, and put some very green, fried parsley in the middle.
Serve a Périgueux sauce separately.
Prepare (1) one and one-quarter lbs. of fine forcemeat with cream (No.194); (2) two poached, veal throat sweetbreads, cut into slices; (3) one-half lb. of cooked mushrooms, cut into large slices, and three oz. of sliced truffles; (4) a garnish of carrots and turnips, raised by means of a tube- or spoon-cutter, or cut into grooved roundels two-thirds inch in diameter; and peas and French beans. Each of these vegetables should be cooked in a way befitting its nature, and kept somewhat firm.
Liberally butter a quart Charlotte-mould. Line its bottom and sides with the vegetables, arranged in alternate and vari-coloured rows, and spread thereon a layer of forcemeat, one-half inch thick.
This done, set upon the layer of forcemeat just spread, another of slices of sweetbread, mushrooms, and truffles; cover the whole with a coat of forcemeat; start the operation again with a litter of sweetbread, mushroom, and truffle slices, and proceed as before until the mould is filled. Finish with a layer of forcemeat. Cover with a round piece of buttered paper, and set to poach in abain-marieand in the oven, for from forty-five to fifty minutes.
When taking thechartreuseout of thebain-marie, let it stand for seven or eight minutes, that the ingredients inside may settle a little, and then turn it out in the middle of a round dish; place a large, cooked, grooved, and very white mushroom on the top of it, and encircle its base with a crown of small braised and well-trimmed half-lettuces.
[409]Send to the table, separately, a sauceboat of Velouté flavoured with mushroom essence.
Cut the vegetables intended for the braising stock into a short and coarsejulienne, and add thereto an equal quantity of similarly-cut celery.
Braise the veal sweetbreads with thisjulienne, after the manner described under No.248, and moisten with excellent veal stock. Take particular care of the vegetables, that they do not burn.
When the sweetbreads are ready, glaze them and dish them in a shallow, roundcocottewith thejulienneof vegetables and the braising-liquor all round.
Cover thecocotte, and serve it on a folded napkin.
For this dish take either some white throat sweetbreads, or some remains of the latter, from which slices have already been cut.
Chop up the throat sweetbreads or the remains, together with their weight of raw calf’s udder.
Season with one-half oz. of salt and a pinch of pepper; add five oz. of chopped truffles and two whole eggs per lb. of the mince-meat. Mix the whole well; divide it up into portions weighing three oz., and wrap each portion in a piece of very soft pig’s caul.
Sprinkle with melted butter and bread-crumbs, and grill gently.
Dish in the form of a crown, and serve a Périgueux sauce at the same time.
Braise the veal sweetbreads and glaze them at the last moment.
Dish them with a heap of small glazed onions at either end, and serve, at the same time, a purée of chestnuts and a sauceboat of thickened gravy.
Lard the sweetbreads with bacon and truffles; braise them brown, and only half-cook them. Then place them in a shallowcocotte, and surround them with the followinggarnish:—Two oz. of carrots and the same weight of turnips, both cut into grooved crescents; an equal quantity of small onions, cut into large roundels, and some celery cutpaysanne-fashion. All these vegetables should be first stewed in butter.
[410]Add the braising-liquor of the sweetbreads, and one oz. of minced truffles, and complete the cooking of the former. Clear of all grease and serve in thecocotte.
Braise the veal sweetbreads and cut each piece into four medium-sized slices. Trim each slice with an even, oval fancy-cutter; and, by means of a piping-bag fitted with an even pipe, one-sixth inch in diameter, garnish the edge of each slice with a thick border ofmousselineforcemeat, combined with chopped salted tongue. Set the slices on a tray, and put them in a moderate oven to poach the forcemeat.
Now, by means of another piping-bag fitted with a grooved pipe, garnish the centre of the slices with a nice rosette of fine and very white Soubise purée; and, in the middle of each rosette, place a little ball of very black truffle.
Set each slice on a thin, ovalcroûtonof the same size as the former and fried in butter. Serve at the same time, in a sauceboat, the braising-liquor of the sweetbreads, cleared of all grease, and a timbale of fresh peas.
Blanchthe veal sweetbreads; cool them under pressure, and cut them into slices. Season the latter and toss them in clarified butter.
At the same time, toss an equal number of slices of foie gras of the same size as those of the sweetbread, after having seasoned and dredged them.
Dish in a circle, alternating the foie gras and the sweetbread slices; put a crown of sliced truffle on the circle already arranged; and, in the centre, pour a garnish of asparagus-heads cohered with butter.
Send, separately, a Madeira sauce flavoured with truffle essence.
Blanchand cool the sweetbreads, and cut them into slices. Season the latter and cook them in butter without colouration. Dish them in the form of a crown, placing a large slice of truffle between each; coat with Mornay sauce, and glaze quickly.
When taking the dish out of the oven, arrange a heap of asparagus-heads cohered with butter, in the middle of the dish, and serve instantly.
Blanchand cool the sweetbreads, and cut them into slices.
Prepare and poach a roll of chicken forcemeat, large enough to allow of slices being cut therefrom of the same size as those of the sweetbreads.
Season, dredge, and toss the slices of sweetbread in butter, and dish them in the form of a crown, each on a roundel of the poached chicken forcemeat.
On each slice place a very small, braised, and well-trimmed lettuce, a slice of truffle, and a cock’s kidney.
Send a sauceboat of thickened gravy separately.
Braise the veal sweetbreads, keeping them somewhat firm, and cut them into slices.
Treat the latterà l’anglaise; brown them in clarified butter, and dish them in a circle, placing a fine slice of truffle between each.
In the middle of the dish arrange a fine heap of asparagus-heads cohered with butter.
After havingblanched, cooked, and trimmed the sweetbreads, set them to get quite cold under pressure. Then cut them in two, laterally, at their thickest point; dip each piece into melted butter, and grill gently, basting frequently the while with melted butter.
The sweetbreads may also be grilled whole, but the process is perforce a more lengthy one.
Cook a brioche, without sugar, in a fluted mould, the aperture of which is a little larger than the veal sweetbreads. Carefully remove the top of the brioche, following the direction of the fluting, and withdraw all the crumb from the inside.
Fill this kind ofcroustade, two-thirds full, with a garnish consisting of peas, prepared “à la française,” and carrots “à la Vichy,” in equal quantities.
Set the grilled veal sweetbreads on this garnish, and cover it with slices of grilled bacon.
Dish on a napkin and serve at once.
Prepare a shallowcroustade, without colouration, in an oval flawn ring of the same length as the veal sweetbread. Grill the veal sweetbread after the manner already described.
[412]Garnish the bottom of thecroustadewith equal quantities of artichoke-bottoms and mushrooms, minced raw, tossed in butter, and cohered with cream sauce.
Set the grilled sweetbread on the garnish, and place thecroustadeon a folded napkin.
Serve, separately, a slightly buttered meat-glaze.
Cut some potatoes into roundels one and one-half inch thick and of the same size as the veal sweetbread. Stamp the roundels, close up to their edges, with a round, even cutter, and cook them in butter. Grill the sweetbread at the same time.
When the potatoes are cooked, withdraw all their inside in such wise as to give them the appearance of cases, and fill them with Soubise prepared with curry.
Dish them and set the grilled sweetbread upon them. On the sweetbread lay a small half-tomato and a green half-capsicum, both grilled.
Blanch, prepare, and grill the veal sweetbreads as already explained. Set them on a long dish, and surround them with alternate heaps of small potatoes cooked in butter and of a nice golden colour, and carrots cut to the shape of elongated olives, cooked in consommé and glazed.
Serve a Béarnaise sauce and a purée of fresh peas, separately.
Braise the veal sweetbreads, and, as soon as they are ready, set them in a round, flatcocotte, just large enough to hold them. Cover them with raw truffles, cut into thick slices; strain the braising-liquor over the whole; cover thecocotte, and seal the cover to the edges of the utensil by means of a thread of soft paste, made simply from a mixture of flour and water.
The object of this last precaution is to prevent any escape whatsoever of steam, and to hold the aroma of the truffles within.
Put thecocotteinto a very hot oven for ten minutes; set it on a dish, and serve it as it stands. The cover should be removed only when the dish reaches the table.
Stud the sweetbreads with truffle and braise them without colouration. Dish them, and, on either side, set a heap of crayfishes’ tails (in the proportion of four to each person), cohered with cream.
[413]At either end place some crayfishes’ carapaces (in the proportion of two to each sweetbread), garnished with chicken forcemeat combined with crayfish butter, and poached.
Serve, separately, an Allemande sauce prepared with crayfish butter.
Stud the sweetbreads with truffles, and braise them without colouration.
Dish them; pour their reduced braising-liquor round the dish, and surround them with a Régence garnish, arranged in alternate heaps representing the constituents of the former, which are: quenelles of fine truffled chicken forcemeat; small grooved mushrooms; curled cocks’ combs, and truffles cut to the shape of olives. Serve separately an Allemande sauce, flavoured with truffle essence.
Stud the veal sweetbreads with truffles and tongue, and three-parts braise them.
Cut some slices of salted tongue of the same size as the sweetbreads, garnish them with slices of truffle, and set a sweetbread on each.
Cover each sweetbread with a layer of short paste (No.2358); set them on a tray;gild; flute; make a small incision on the top of the paste to allow the escape of steam, and bake in a hot oven for thirty minutes.
When withdrawing them from the oven, pour in some half-glaze sauce with Madeira, and dish them on a napkin.
Stud the sweetbreads with truffles and braise them without colouration.
Dish them with the Toulousaine garnish, arranged in heaps all round, and surround the latter with a thread of meat-glaze.
Toulousaine garnishcomprises small chicken-forcemeat quenelles; cocks’ combs and kidneys; very white button-mushroom heads, and slices of truffle.
Serve, separately, an Allemande flavoured with mushroom essence.
Prepare (1) the required number of small, flutedcroustades, baked without colouration in rather large tartlet moulds. (2) The same number of slices of braised veal sweetbread as there arecroustades, and of the same size. (3) A financière garnish, consisting of very small chicken-forcemeat quenelles; grooved[414]button-mushrooms, and sliced cocks’ combs and kidneys. The whole covered by half-glaze with Madeira, in the proportion of one tablespoonful percroustade. (5) As many fine slices of truffle as there arecroustades.
Put a tablespoonful of the garnish into eachcroustade; set thereon a slice of sweetbread; put a slice of truffle upon that, and dish thecroustadeson a folded napkin.