[473]CHAPTER XVIPOULTRY (VOLAILLE)Althoughthe term “poultry” (Fr. volaille), in its general sense, implies Turkeys, Geese, Ducks and Pigeons, just as well as Fowls, only the latter are meant, from the culinary standpoint, when the word “Volaille” appears on a menu.Four qualities of fowl are recognised in cookery, and each plays its part, has its uses, and is quite distinct from the other three. Wehave:—(1)Pullets and capons; usually served whole, either as relevés or roasts.(2)Chickens, so-called “à la Reine”; used forsautésand chiefly for roasts.(3)Spring chickens; best suited toen cocotteor grilled preparations.(4)Chicks; served onlyen cocotteor grilled.Suprêmesandaileronsof fowl, which are among the finest entrées, are supplied by chickens à la Reine or by Spring chickens.Finally, there are the giblets, consisting of the pinions, necks, gizzards, and livers of fowl, which give rise to a number of preparations, the recipes whereof I shall give briefly at the end of the series.1443—PULLETS AND CAPONS FOR RELEVÉSPullets and capons for relevés and entrées are poached orpoëled; sometimes, but more rarely, they are braised.The birds to be treated by poaching are trussed with the claws folded back and inserted into the belly; their fillets and legs are rubbed with lemon, so as to keep them white, and they are then covered with thin slices of larding bacon.The ingredients for chicken poaching stock were given under No.249. The bird is known to be cooked when the blood which issues from a prick on the leg is white or faintly pink.These fowls are sometimes larded or studded. When this is to be done, dip the legs and belly of a trussed and[474]lemon-rubbed fowl into boiling white stock; this will be found to sufficiently harden the flesh to allow of its being treated in the required way. The products used for studding and larding are, according to circumstances, ham or tongue, truffles or mushrooms, and sometimes, the red part of a carrot for the larding. Only truffles, ham and tongue are used for studding.Poëledfowlsare trussed as above; they are covered with slices of bacon in order that the fillets may be protected during the first stages of the cooking; then they are cooked in butter onpoëling-aromatics, under cover and in a deep, thick saucepan. When the piece is almost cooked, just moisten it a little, either with rich poultry-stock, with the cooking-liquor of truffles or mushrooms, with Madeira, red or white wine, &c. This moistening serves in the basting of the fowl and must therefore be renewed if it reduces too quickly. After having been cleared of all grease, it is always added to the sauce which accompanies the piece of poultry.Braised fowlsare always treated after the manner described under No.248; they are not rubbed with lemon, but they are covered with slices of bacon. The latter should only cover the breast, but be thick, notwithstanding; for they protect the belly, which, without them, would shrivel by the time the legs cooked.The covering of bacon is essential to all pieces of poultry, whether these be poached,poëled, braised or roasted.1444—THE WAY TO SERVE POULTRY RELEVÉS QUICKLYAND HOTI feel bound to call the reader’s attention to this very important point in culinarywork:—Owing to the difficulties involved in the carving of the fowl and the placing and arranging of the pieces and their garnish upon the consumers’ plates—both of which operations require dexterity and expertness, which those in charge very often do not possess, or thanks to the inefficiency of particular installations, or what not, I have noticed for some considerable time, that the method of serving large pieces of poultry is, in many cases, very far from being the right one.For, indeed, how often does not the diner find himself presented with a plate of fowl which is neither appetisingly dainty nor yet sufficiently hot! It follows from this, that all the care and trouble devoted by a chef to the preparation of the dish are entirely wasted. Now, I have tried to improve this state of affairs, by planning a method of serving which would be at once simple and expeditious, without necessarily being devoid of tastefulness and presentability.[475]In the first place, it is my practice to remove the fowl’s twosuprêmes, in the kitchen, and to keep them warm in a little cooking-liquor until the last minute. Secondly, I remove all the bones of the breast, and I reconstruct the fowl with a garnish in keeping with the dish,i.e., either amousselineforcemeat, pilaff rice combined with cream, foie gras and truffles, spaghetti, or noodles with cream.Having properly smoothed and arranged the selected garnish, the fowl may now be placed, either at one end of any but a round dish, or on a low cushion of fried bread, on which it may be set firmly.It may also be entirely coated with Mornay sauce, sprinkled with grated cheese, and speedily glazed.When the body of the bird is dished, its garnish should be set round it in fine, tartlet crusts; itssuprêmes, quickly sliced, should be distributed among the tartlets, and the dish sent to the table with the sauce separately.By this means, it reaches the table hot, it is served quickly and cleanly; and every person gets a slice of meat, and not garnish only, as was so often the case formerly.Instead of tartlets, one may use thincroûtonsof bread, of the size of the slices of chicken, and fried in fresh butter.Thus, for a “Poularde à la Derby,” after having stuffed the pullet with rice, suppressed the bones of the breast, and removed thesuprêmes; all that is necessary is to properly shape the rice, and to dish the fowl on a cushion.This done, prepare as manycroûtonsand slices of foie-gras,sautédin butter, as there are diners, and arrange them round the pullet—the slices of foie-gras lying on thecroûtons. Now, quickly cut thesuprêmesinto slices; put one of these on each slice of foie-gras, and on each of the latter put a slice of truffle. Put the pullet, thus prepared, in the oven for a few minutes; let it get very hot, and send it to the table with the sauce separately.In the dining-room the Maître-d’hôtel quickly serves the garnishedcroûtonson hot plates, beside eachcroûtonhe puts a tablespoonful of the rice with which the pullet has been stuffed, and, finally, a tablespoonful of sauce.In less than two minutes after its entrance into the dining-room, the pullet is thus served warm to each person.Of course, the above measures refer to the fowl that has to be dished whole and presented; but, when this is not required, the rice withdrawn from the cooked bird need only be set in the centre of a deep, square entrée dish (fitted with a cover),[476]and surrounded by the slicedsuprêmes, with intercalated slices of foie-gras and truffle. The sauce is also served separately in this case. Cover the dish, so that it may stand and keep hot a few minutes, if necessary, without spoiling.The legs, which are rarely served at a well-ordered dinner, remain in the kitchen together with the carcass.I cannot too strongly recommend the system just described, whenever the circumstances allow of its being put into practice. It is the only one that ensures an efficient service, calculated to give entire satisfaction to all concerned.1445—POULARDE ALBUFERAStuff the pullet with the rice prescribed under No.2256, and poach it. Dish it and coat with Albuféra sauce.Surround with small tartlet crusts, garnished with truffles raised by means of a spoon the size of a pea; quenelles of the same shape; small button mushrooms, and cocks’ kidneys. Cohere this garnish with Albuféra sauce.Between each tartlet, place a slice of salted tongue, cut to the shape of a cock’s comb.1446—POULARDE ALEXANDRAHaving larded the pullet with tongue and truffle, poach it.This done, remove thesuprêmes, and replace them bymousselineforcemeat; smooth this forcemeat, giving it the shape of the pullet in so doing, and set to poach in the front of the oven.Now, coat the piece with Mornay sauce, and glaze quickly. Dish, and surround with tartlet-crusts garnished with asparagus-heads, cohered with butter; place a collop of the reservedsuprêmes(which should have been kept hot) on each tartlet, and border the dish with a thread of pale glaze.1447—POULARDE AMBASSADRICEStud the pullet with truffles, cover it with a Matignon (No.227), wrap it in muslin, and braise it.Remove thesuprêmes; suppress the bones of the breast; fill the carcass with a garnish of asparagus-heads, cohered with butter, and arrange this garnish as already described under No.1444.Slice thesuprêmes, and put them back on the garnish, in suchwise as to reconstruct the breast of the fowl. Coat the piece with somewhat stiff and fine suprême sauce; dish it, and surround it with lamb sweet-breads, studded with truffles,[477]braised and glazed, and alternate the sweetbreads with little faggots of asparagus-heads.1448—POULARDE ANDALOUSEPoëlethe pullet. Dish it, and coat it with itspoëling-liquor, combined withtomatédhalf-glaze sauce. On either side of it set some capsicums, stuffed with rice, and some roundels of egg-plant, seasoned, dredged and tossed in butter; alternating the two products.1449—POULARDEA L’ANGLAISEPoach the pullet, and coat it with a Béchamel sauce flavoured with chicken-essence.Dish it and surround it with slices of salted tongue, laid tile-fashion on either side; and heaps of carrots and turnips (cut to the shape of balls) and peas and celery, at either end. All these vegetables should be cookedà l’anglaise;i.e., either in boiling water or in steam.1450—POULARDEA L’AUROREPoach the pullet without colouration; dish it, and coat it with an “Aurore Sauce” (No.60). Surround it with medium-sized, decorated quenelles; and trimmed oval slices of salted tongue, arranged according to fancy.1451—POULARDEA LA BEAUFORTStuff the pullet with a fine foie-gras, stiffened in the oven for twenty minutes with a little Madeira, and cooled.Fill up the pullet with a little, fine sausage-meat; stud it with truffles, and braise it in short moistening.Dish it on a low cushion, and surround it with braised, lambs’ tongues, alternated with artichoke-bottoms, garnished with a rosette of Soubise purée. As an adjunct, use the braising-liquor, cleared of all grease.1452—POULARDE BOUILLIEA L’ANGLAISECook the pullet in light, white stock with one lb. of breast of bacon and a garnish of vegetables as for pot-au-feu. Dish, and surround with the bacon, cut into slices.Serve, separately, an English parsley sauce, and a sauceboat of the pullet’s cooking-liquor.1453—POULARDE AUX CÉLERISPoëlethe pullet, and baste it towards the close of the operation with strong veal stock.Prepare a garnish of braised celery.[478]Dish the pullet; surround it with the braised celery, and cover the latter with thepoëling-liquor.1454—POULARDE AUX CHAMPIGNONS A BRUNPoëlethe pullet, and swill the saucepan with mushroom essence. Add this swilling-liquor (reduced) to one-quarter pint of half-glaze with Madeira.Dish the pullet, and surround it with twenty grooved and cooked mushroom-heads. Serve separately the reduced half-glaze, to which add two oz. of fresh butter.1455—POULARDE AUX CHAMPIGNONSA BLANCPoach the pullet.Dish it, and coat it with an Allemande sauce flavoured with mushroom essence.Surround it with twenty grooved, cooked and very white mushroom-heads.1456—POULARDE CHANOINESSEPrepare a “Poularde Soufflée” after recipe No.1518. Dish it, and surround it with small heaps of crayfishes’ tails, alternated with smallcroûtonsof fried bread, on each of which place a collop of thesuprêmes. Finish off with a slice of truffle on each collop of thesuprêmes.Serve a Mornay sauce, finished with crayfish butter, separately.1457—POULARDE CHÂTELAINEPoëlethe pullet without letting it acquire too much colour.Dish it, and surround it with small artichoke-bottoms, stewed in butter and garnished with Soubise.Alternate the artichoke-bottoms with small heaps of chestnuts cooked in consommé and glazed.Pour a little thickenedpoëling-liquor on the bottom of the dish, and serve what remains of it, separately, in a sauceboat.1458—POULARDE CHEVALIÈRERemove thesuprêmes, and the minion fillets. Lard the former with two rows of truffles and two rows of tongue; trim the minion fillets; make five or six slits in each; insert a thin slice of truffle half-way into each slit, and draw the respective ends of the two fillets together in suchwise as to form two rings. Put thesuprêmesand the minion fillets each into a buttered sautépan, and cover the latter.Remove the pullet’s legs, keeping the skin as long as possible; bone them to within one and one-third inches of the[479]joints, and cut off the claws, aslant, just below the same joints. Garnish the boned regions with godiveau prepared with cream close the opening by means of a few stitches of strong cotton, and truss each leg in such a manner as to imitate a small duck.Poach these stuffed legs in stock made from the pullet’s carcass.Also poach thesuprêmesand the minion fillets in good time, with a little mushroom cooking-liquor, and a few drops of lemon juice.With a pinch of flour mixed with water, stick a friedcroûton(the shape of a pyramid, three inches high and of two inch base) in the middle of a dish.Around this pyramid, arrange the two stuffed legs and the twosuprêmes; putting each of them on a decorated quenelle with the view of slightly raising them. Set the minion fillets on the legs, and, between the latter and thesuprêmes, lay small heaps of cocks’ combs and kidneys, and some very white mushroom-heads. Pierce thecroûtonwith ahateletgarnished with one truffle, one fine cock’s comb, and a large mushroom.Serve a suprême sauce separately.N.B.—This dish is generally bordered, either with noodle-paste, white English paste, or with a chased silver border.1459—POULARDE CHIMAYStuff the pullet with one-half lb. of half-poached noodles, tossed in butter, and combined with a little cream and three oz. of foie-gras cut into large dice.Poëleit gently; dish it, and coat it with some of itspoëling-liquor, thickened.Distribute over the pullet a copious amount of raw noodles,sautédin clarified butter; and serve the remainder of the thickenedpoëling-liquor separately.1460—POULARDE CHIPOLATAPoëlethe pullet and put it into aterrine à pâtéwith a garnish consisting of small, glazed onions;chipolatasausages, poached in butter; chestnuts cooked in consommé; fried pieces of bacon; and, if desired, some small glazed carrots.Add the pullet’s cooking-liquor, and simmer for ten minutes before serving.1461—POULARDEA LA CHIVRYPoach the pullet. Dish it and coat it with Chivry sauce (No.78).Serve aMacédoineof new vegetables; cohered with butter or cream, separately.[480]1462—POULARDE CUSSYBraise the pullet. Dish it and surround it with whole truffles, cooked inMirepoixwith Madeira, and alternated with fine, grilled mushrooms, garnished with artichoke purée.In front of the pullet set a small, silver shell, in which shape a pyramid of large cocks’ combs, heated in butter.1463—POULARDE EN DEMI-DEUILBetween the skin and the fillets of the fowl insert a few fine slices of raw truffle. Lard the pullet and poach it.When it is ready, strain the cooking-liquor through a napkin; reduce it, and add it to a very white suprême sauce, containing slices of truffle.Dish the pullet; cook it with some of the sauce, and send what remains, separately, in a sauceboat.1464—POULARDE DEMIDOFFPoëlethe pullet. When it is three-parts done, put it into acocotteand surround it with the following garnish, prepared in advance and stewed in butter;viz:—one-half lb. of carrots and five oz. of turnips, cut into grooved crescents, one inch in diameter; five oz. of small onions cut into thin roundels, and five oz. of celery.Complete the cooking of the pullet with this garnish, and add to it, when about to serve, three oz. of truffles, cut to the shape of crescents, and one-sixth pint of chicken stock.Serve the preparation in thecocotte, after having cleared the liquor of all grease.1465—POULARDE DERBYStuff the pullet with rice, prepared after recipe No.2256; andpoëleit. Dish, and surround it with collops of foie-gras, tossed in butter (each set on a small, friedcroûton), and alternate these with large, whole truffles, cooked in champagne.As an adjunct, serve the pullet’s cooking-liquor, cleared of all grease, combined with the cooking-liquor of the truffles and one-sixth pint of veal gravy. Reduce the whole to one-sixth pint and thicken with arrow-root.1466—POULARDE DIVAStuff the pullet with rice, prepared after recipe No.2256, and poach it without colouration.Dish it, and coat it with suprême sauce, flavoured with paprika.Send a garnish consisting ofcèpeswith cream, separately.[481]N.B.—This dish was served for the first time to Mme. Adelina Patti, the great singer.1467—POULARDE DEVONSHIREBone the breast of a fine pullet; season it inside, and fill it with a chicken forcemeat, prepared with cream and mixed with half its weight of very fine sausage-meat.In the middle of the pullet set a nice salted and cooked calf’s tongue, trimmed and cleared of all cartilage; and place it so that its thin end lies in the region of the bird’s tail.Sew up the pullet’s belly with thin string, allowing the skin sufficient play not to tear under the pressure of the forcemeat, which swells while cooking. Truss, cover the pullet with a slice of larding bacon, poach, and drain it.When about to serve, make an incision around the breast with the point of a knife; detach the stuffing with the blade of a knife, passed horizontally on a level with the spine, and cut off, at a stroke, the piece consisting of the pullet’s breast, the stuffing, and the calf’s tongue.Dish the carcass with the legs and wings still attached, on a low cushion. Cut the breast, lengthwise, into two; and, if the fowl has been properly stuffed, the tongue should then be found neatly bisected. Slice each half, and return them to the carcass in suchwise as to reconstruct the bird and give it an untouched appearance.Coat lightly with Allemande sauce, combined with very red tongue, cut into dice; and surround with a border of timbales made from a purée of fresh peas (No.2196), each set on an artichoke bottom. Serve a sauceboat of the same sauce as that with which the pullet was coated.1468—POULARDEA L’ÉCOSSAISEStuff the pullet with pearl barley cooked in white consommé, well drained, and combined, per lb., with an equal quantity of fine sausage-meat (to which has been added a chopped onion, cooked in butter), and two tablespoonfuls of cream.Poach the pullet in the usual way; dish it and coat it with Écossaise sauce,i.e., an Allemande sauce, combined with abrunoiseof vegetables: carrots, onions, leeks, and celery, and a large part of the reduced pullet’s poaching-liquor.Serve a garnish of French beans with cream, separately.1469—POULARDE ÉDOUARD VIIStuff the pullet with rice, prepared after recipe No.2256, and poach it without colouration. Dish it, and coat it with a[482]curry sauce, combined with two oz. of red capsicums in dice, per pint of sauce.Serve a garnish of cucumbers with cream, separately.N.B.—This dish was originated at the Carlton Hotel on the occasion of His Majesty King Edward VII.’s Coronation.1470—POULARDE EN ESTOUFFADEHalf-poëlethe pullet in a saucepan.Line the bottom and sides of an ovalcocottewith thin slices of ham. Put the half-poëledpullet into thiscocotte, together with one lb. of carrots, onions, and celery, all three sliced, fried in butter and moderately seasoned with salt and pepper.Swill the saucepan with one-third pint of strong veal stock; reduce to half; put this reduced stock into thecocotte; cover the latter; seal down the lid with a thread of paste, and complete the cooking of the pullet in a somewhat hot oven for three-quarters of an hour.1471—POULARDEA L’ESTRAGONPoach the pullet, and add to the ordinary garnish a bunch consisting of five or six sprigs of tarragon.Dish, and decorate the pullet’s breast with a nice spray ofblanchedtarragon leaves.Reduce and strain the pullet’s cooking-liquor, and serve it separately.1472—POULARDEA LA FAVORITEStuff the pullet with one-half lb. of rice, prepared after recipe No.2256.Poach it; dish it, and coat with a suprême sauce.Surround with a garnish of cocks’ combs and kidneys, and slices of truffle.1473—POULARDEA LA FERMIÈREPrepare the pullet as for No.1470; but, instead of lining thecocottewith slices of ham, cut the latter into dice and add these to the garnish, together with four oz. of peas and four oz. of French beans, cut into small lozenges.1474—POULARDEA LA FINANCIÈREBraise the pullet.Dish it, and surround it with a garnish consisting of small heaps of quenelles made from chicken,mousselineforcemeat; grooved, button-mushroom heads; cocks’ combs and kidneys;[483]slices of truffle, andblanchedolives. Add a small quantity of half-glaze sauce prepared with truffle essence.Send a sauceboat of the same sauce separately.1475—POULARDEA LA GASTRONOMEStuff the pullet with one-half lb. of noodles, slightly tossed in butter, andpoëleit.Swill the saucepan with one-quarter pint of champagne. Dish the pullet and surround it with medium-sized truffles, cooked in champagne, alternated with small heaps of cooked and glazed chestnuts, and place a cock’s kidney between each heap.Serve, separately, a half-glaze sauce, flavoured with truffle essence and combined with the reduced swilling-liquor.1476—POULARDEA LA GODARDBraise the pullet brown.Dish it and surround it with spoon-moulded quenelles of forcemeat, combined with chopped mushrooms and truffles; large oval quenelles, decorated with tongue and truffle; grooved button-mushroom heads; cocks’ combs and kidneys; glazed small lambs’ sweetbreads; and olive-shaped truffles.Slightly coat this garnish with Godard sauce, combined with some reduced braising-liquor, and send what remains of the latter in a sauceboat.1477—POULARDEA LA GRAMMONTPoach the pullet, and let it half-cool.Now remove thesuprêmesand the bones of the breast; fill up the cavity in the carcass with a garnish consisting of larks’ fillets,sautédjust before dishing; grooved button-mushroom heads; cocks’ combs and kidneys; and cohere the whole by means of Béchamel sauce, finished with truffle essence.Slice thesuprêmes, and return them to their place, setting a slice of truffle between each. Coat the pullet with a stiff Allemande sauce; sprinkle with grated Parmesan and melted butter; glaze quickly, and serve at once.1478—POULARDE GRAND HÔTELCut up the fowl as for asautédish, and cook it in butter, under cover. Then set the pieces in a very hotcocotte, and distribute thereupon five oz. of raw truffles cut into thick slices and slightly salted and peppered.Swill the sautépan with a few tablespoonfuls of white wine; add a little chicken stock; pour this liquor into thecocotte;[484]thoroughly close the latter, and put it in a very hot oven for eight or ten minutes with the view of cooking the truffles.Serve the preparation as it stands in thecocotte.N.B.—This dish was invented at the Grand Hotel at Monte Carlo, as a means of offering to those who could not wait for the preparation of truffled pullets a substitute of a somewhat similar nature to the latter.1479—POULARDE AU GROS SELPoach the pullet, and add to it ten small olive-shaped carrots and ten small onions.Dish, and surround the bird with the carrots and the onions, arranged in small heaps.Serve, separately, a sauceboat containing the pullet’s cooking-liquor, and a cellarof kitchen salt.1480—POULARDEA LA GRECQUEStuff the pullet with rice, prepared after recipe No.2253, andpoëleit.Dish it, and coat it with very strong reduced chicken stock, thickened by means of arrowroot.1481—POULARDEA LA HONGROISEPoëlethe pullet.Dish it; coat it with Hongroise sauce, and surround it with timbales of pilaff rice, combined with tomato pulp, cut into dice.Send a Hongroise sauce separately.1482—POULARDE AUX HUÎTRESBoil the pullet gently in light, white stock, until it is well cooked. With the cooking-liquor prepare a suprême sauce, and add thereto the almost entirely reduced poaching-liquor of twenty-four oysters, one-half pint of cream, and the twenty-four oysters (cleared of their beards).Dish the pullet, and pour this sauce over it.1483—POULARDEA L’INDIENNEPoach the pullet.Dish it; coat with Indienne sauce, and serve a timbale of rice à l’Indienne, prepared after recipe No.2254, separately.1484—POULARDE ISABELLE DE FRANCEStuff the pullet with rizotto, combined with two oz. of truffle slices and eighteen crayfishes’ tails, and poach it in white stock containing one bottle of Chablis wine.With the pullet’s cooking-liquor prepare a highly-seasoned[485]suprême sauce. Dish the bird on a small cushion; coat it with sauce, and surround it with fine black truffles, cooked in champagne, and set each on a small, round, and slightly hollowedcroûtonof fried bread.Serve the remainder of the sauce separately.1485—POULARDEA L’IVOIREPoach the pullet, keeping it very white. Dish it, and serve it plain.Send, separately, an ivory sauce, a sauceboat of the pullet’s cooking-liquor, and some kind of garnish, such as macaroni or noodles with creamcèpes, cucumber, &c.1486—POULARDE LADY CURZONStuff the pullet with rice, prepared after recipe No.2256, and poach it.Dish it, and coat it with an Indienne sauce.A garnish ofcèpesor cucumber with cream may be served at the same time.1487—POULARDE LOUISE D’ORLÉANSInsert a whole foie gras into the pullet, the former having been studded with truffles, poached for fifteen minutes in some succulent veal stock, and one glassful of old Madeira, and afterwardscooled.Stiffen and colour the pullet for twenty minutes in the oven, sprinkling it with butter the while.Cover it entirely with thick slices of truffles; cover these with slices of bacon, and envelop the whole in a layer of plain dough, which should be well sealed up. Set the pullet, prepared in this way, on a baking-tray; make a slit in the top of the paste for the escape of steam during the cooking process, and cook in a moderate oven for one and three-quarter hours.This pullet is served as it stands, cold or hot.1488—POULARDEA LA LOUISIANEStuff the pullet with one lb. of maize with cream, combined with one and one-half oz. of capsicums cut into dice, andpoëleit. Dish it and border it, on either side, with timbales of rice and fried bananas, arranged alternately. At either end of the dish set acroustadeof lining paste, garnished with maize “à la crème.”1489—POULARDEA LA LUCULLUSBraise the pullet.Dish it, and surround it with (1) fine truffles, cooked in champagne, alternated with (2) large, round quenelles ofmousselineforcemeat. At either end of the dish, which should[486]be oval, set a small silver shell of the same height as the cushion on which the pullet lies.Garnish these shells with very white, curled cocks’ combs and cocks’ kidneys. Add the reduced braising-liquor to a half-glaze sauce, flavoured with truffle essence; cover the bottom of the dish with some of this sauce, and send what remains, separately, in a sauceboat.1490—POULARDEA LA MANCINIPoach the pullet.Remove thesuprêmes; suppress the bones of the breast without touching either the pinions or the legs, and set the carcass, thus prepared, on a very low cushion of bread or rice, so that it may be steady.Fill the carcass with macaroni, cohered with cheese and cream, and combined with three oz. of foie gras in dice, and one-half oz. of ajulienneof truffles.Slice thesuprêmes, and reconstruct them on the macaroni, placing a fine slice of truffle between each. Coat the pullet with a stiff and unctuous cream sauce; sprinkle with grated cheese, and glaze quickly at the salamander.Serve separately a creamy suprême sauce.1491—POULARDE MARGUERITE DE SAVOIEFry quickly ten larks in butter, insert these into a fine pullet, and braise the latter in veal stock and white Savoy wine, in equal quantities. Prepare a milk polenta (No.2294); spread it on a tray in layers one inch thick, and let it cool. Now stamp it with a round cutter one and one-half inches in diameter, and, a few minutes before serving, dredge these roundels of polenta, and brown them in clarified butter.Just before dishing up, sprinkle them with grated Parmesan, and glaze them quickly at the salamander.Dish the pullet on a very low cushion of fried bread; surround it with the glazed roundels of polenta; pour a little of the fowl’s cooking-liquor, thickened, over the dish, and send what remains of it in a sauceboat.Serve at the same time a vegetable-dish of white Piedmont truffles, slightly heated in a little butter and some consommé.1492—POULARDEA LA MÉNAGÈREPoach the pullet in some rather gelatinous white stock. Slice six carrots, six new potatoes, six new onions; put the whole into a saucepan, and cook gently in the fowl’s poaching-liquor, with the lid of the saucepan off. When the vegetables[487]are cooked, and the liquor is sufficiently reduced, set the pullet in a special ovalcocotte, and cover it with the prepared vegetables and their cooking-liquor.1493—POULARDE MIREILLEPoëlethe pullet.Dish it; surround it with small timbales of rice with saffron, alternated with tartlet crusts, garnished withconcassedtomatoes cooked in butter, and set a fine, stoned olive on each tartlet.Serve a tomato sauce separately.1494—POULARDEA LA MONTBAZONStud the pullet with truffles, and poach it.Dish it; coat it with suprême sauce, and surround it with poached lamb sweetbreads, spoon-moulded quenelles ofmousseline, chicken forcemeat, and grooved mushroom heads, arranged alternately.Serve a suprême sauce separately.1495—POULARDEA LA MONTE CARLOPoach the pullet.Dish it; coat it with suprême sauce, and surround it on the one side with quenelles of pink,mousseline, chicken forcemeat, and on the other with a border of fair-sized, very black truffles.1496—POULARDEA LA MONTMORENCYLard the pullet with truffles, and braise it in Madeira.Set it on an oval dish, and, at either end of the latter, place a fine, decorated quenelle; on either side of the fowl arrange some artichoke-bottoms, garnished with asparagus-heads, cohered with butter.Serve separately a half-glaze sauce with Madeira, to which the braising-liquor of the pullet has been added.1497—POULARDEA LA NANTUAPoach the pullet.Dish it; coat it with a suprême sauce, finished with crayfish butter, and surround it with small heaps of quenelles with crayfish butter, crayfishes’ tails, and slices of truffle.1498—POULARDE A L’ORIENTALEStuff the pullet with one lb. of pilaff rice with saffron, and poach it.Remove itssuprêmes; suppress the breast-bones by means of scissors, without touching the rice, and coat the latter with[488]Béchamel sauce coloured with tomato sauce and flavoured with saffron.Dish; reconstruct the slicedsuprêmeson the rice, and set between each slice another of chow-chow stewed in butter. Cover the pullet with the same sauce as that indicated above, and surround it with quarters of chow-chow cooked in butter, or serve this garnish separately.1499—POULARDE AUX ŒUFS D’ORPoëlethe pullet without letting it acquire overmuch colour.Strain thepoëling-liquor; clear it of all grease; add thereto a little tomato purée, and thicken it with arrowroot. Finish with three oz. of butter, the juice of half a lemon, and a little cayenne.Dish the pullet; surround it with a border of egg-shaped croquettes of egg with truffles, and send the sauce separately.1500—POULARDEA LA PARISIENNEPoach the pullet.Dish it; cover it with Allemande sauce, and decorate it on top with slices of truffles and salted tongue cut to the shape of cocks’ combs.Surround with spoon-moulded quenelles of chicken forcemeat, half of which should have been combined with chopped truffles, and the other half with chopped, salted ox-tongue.Arrange the quenelles round the fowl, alternately, and border the dish with a thread of pale glaze.1501—POULARDE ADELINA PATTIStuff the pullet with rice, prepared after recipe No.2256, and poach it in white, chicken stock. Dish it on a low cushion; cover it with a suprême sauce, flavoured with paprika, and surround it with fair-sized artichoke-bottoms, each garnished with a fine truffle, coated with pale meat glaze.Serve separately a sauceboat of the same sauce as that already used in coating the pullet.1502—POULARDEA LA PAYSANNEBrown the pullet in butter, and put it into an ovalcocotte.Around it set a garnish consisting of four oz. of the red part of a carrot, three oz. of onion, and two oz. of celery, all three minced somewhat finely. Complete the cooking of the pullet with the vegetables, sprinkling it often the while with good veal stock.Serve the preparation as it stands in thecocotte.[489]1503—POULARDEA LA PÉRIGORDStuff the pullet with one-half lb. of truffles in the shape of large olives, cooked in two oz. of melted pork fat, and mixed, while hot, with one lb. of fresh, grated pork fat, rubbed through a sieve. String the piece, taking care to close all its openings, andpoëleit gently.Dish it; coat it with a very fine half-glaze sauce, made from thepoëling-liquor and finished with truffle essence.1504—POULARDE PETITE MARIÉEPoach the pullet in a little white stock, and surround it (when setting it to cook) with six small new onions, six small carrots, six small new potatoes, and one-quarter pint of freshly-shelled peas.Set the pullet in acocottewith the garnish of vegetables, and coat it with its reduced cooking-liquor, combined with some excellent suprême sauce.1505—POULARDEA LA PIÉMONTAISEStuff the pullet with two-thirds lb. of rizotto combined with one-half lb. of white sliced truffles, andpoëleit in the usual way.Dish it, and serve at the same time a thickened chicken gravy to which has been added the reducedpoëling-liquor.1506—POULARDEA LA PORTUGAISEStuff the pullet with three-quarters lb. of rice, combined with five oz. of peeled andconcassedtomatoes, cooked in butter.Poëlethe pullet. Dish it; coat it with a Portugaise sauce, combined with thepoëling-liquor, and surround it with a garnish of medium-sized tomatoes, stuffed with rice “à la Portugaise.”1507—POULARDE PRINCESSEPoach the pullet.Dish it, and coat it with an Allemande sauce, flavoured with mushroom essence and finished with two oz. of asparagus-head butter per pint of sauce. Surround it withcroustadesof Duchesse potatoes, rolled in breadcrumbs and melted butter, fried, emptied, then garnished with asparagus-heads cohered with butter, and each surmounted by a fine slice of truffle. Between eachcroustadeset a faggot of very green asparagus-heads.1508—POULARDE PRINCESSE HÉLÈNEStuff the pullet with rice prepared after recipe (No.2256), and poach it. Dish it; coat it with suprême sauce, and surround it with spinachsubrics, cooked at the last moment; add[490]to this garnish some shavings of white truffles, barely heated in butter, and set in a shell placed behind the fowl.1509—POULARDE RÉGENCEStuff the pullet with one lb. ofmousselineforcemeat of chicken, combined with three oz. of crayfish purée, and poach it.Dish it; coat it with Allemande sauce, flavoured with truffle essence, and surround it with the following garnish, arranged in smallheaps:—Spoon-moulded quenelles ofmousseline, chicken forcemeat; white, curled, cocks’ combs; slices of raw foie gras, stamped out with a round cutter, and tossed in butter; small, grooved, cooked, and very white mushrooms; olive-shaped truffles, and one round quenelle decorated with truffles at either end of the dish.1510—POULARDE DE LA REINE ANNEPoëlethe pullet.When it is ready, remove thesuprêmesand the breast bones, and fill the carcass with a garnish of macaroni and cream, combined with foie gras and truffle dice. Cover the macaroni with Mornay sauce; glaze quickly, and dish the pullet on a low cushion.Surround it with small tartlet crusts garnished with cocks’ combs and kidneys, cohered with Allemande sauce, and set a slice of thesuprêmeson each tartlet. Put a silver shell containing a pyramid of truffles behind the fowl.Serve an Allemande sauce, flavoured with truffle essence, separately.
Althoughthe term “poultry” (Fr. volaille), in its general sense, implies Turkeys, Geese, Ducks and Pigeons, just as well as Fowls, only the latter are meant, from the culinary standpoint, when the word “Volaille” appears on a menu.
Four qualities of fowl are recognised in cookery, and each plays its part, has its uses, and is quite distinct from the other three. Wehave:—
(1)Pullets and capons; usually served whole, either as relevés or roasts.
(2)Chickens, so-called “à la Reine”; used forsautésand chiefly for roasts.
(3)Spring chickens; best suited toen cocotteor grilled preparations.
(4)Chicks; served onlyen cocotteor grilled.
Suprêmesandaileronsof fowl, which are among the finest entrées, are supplied by chickens à la Reine or by Spring chickens.
Finally, there are the giblets, consisting of the pinions, necks, gizzards, and livers of fowl, which give rise to a number of preparations, the recipes whereof I shall give briefly at the end of the series.
Pullets and capons for relevés and entrées are poached orpoëled; sometimes, but more rarely, they are braised.
The birds to be treated by poaching are trussed with the claws folded back and inserted into the belly; their fillets and legs are rubbed with lemon, so as to keep them white, and they are then covered with thin slices of larding bacon.
The ingredients for chicken poaching stock were given under No.249. The bird is known to be cooked when the blood which issues from a prick on the leg is white or faintly pink.
These fowls are sometimes larded or studded. When this is to be done, dip the legs and belly of a trussed and[474]lemon-rubbed fowl into boiling white stock; this will be found to sufficiently harden the flesh to allow of its being treated in the required way. The products used for studding and larding are, according to circumstances, ham or tongue, truffles or mushrooms, and sometimes, the red part of a carrot for the larding. Only truffles, ham and tongue are used for studding.
Poëledfowlsare trussed as above; they are covered with slices of bacon in order that the fillets may be protected during the first stages of the cooking; then they are cooked in butter onpoëling-aromatics, under cover and in a deep, thick saucepan. When the piece is almost cooked, just moisten it a little, either with rich poultry-stock, with the cooking-liquor of truffles or mushrooms, with Madeira, red or white wine, &c. This moistening serves in the basting of the fowl and must therefore be renewed if it reduces too quickly. After having been cleared of all grease, it is always added to the sauce which accompanies the piece of poultry.
Braised fowlsare always treated after the manner described under No.248; they are not rubbed with lemon, but they are covered with slices of bacon. The latter should only cover the breast, but be thick, notwithstanding; for they protect the belly, which, without them, would shrivel by the time the legs cooked.
The covering of bacon is essential to all pieces of poultry, whether these be poached,poëled, braised or roasted.
I feel bound to call the reader’s attention to this very important point in culinarywork:—
Owing to the difficulties involved in the carving of the fowl and the placing and arranging of the pieces and their garnish upon the consumers’ plates—both of which operations require dexterity and expertness, which those in charge very often do not possess, or thanks to the inefficiency of particular installations, or what not, I have noticed for some considerable time, that the method of serving large pieces of poultry is, in many cases, very far from being the right one.
For, indeed, how often does not the diner find himself presented with a plate of fowl which is neither appetisingly dainty nor yet sufficiently hot! It follows from this, that all the care and trouble devoted by a chef to the preparation of the dish are entirely wasted. Now, I have tried to improve this state of affairs, by planning a method of serving which would be at once simple and expeditious, without necessarily being devoid of tastefulness and presentability.
[475]In the first place, it is my practice to remove the fowl’s twosuprêmes, in the kitchen, and to keep them warm in a little cooking-liquor until the last minute. Secondly, I remove all the bones of the breast, and I reconstruct the fowl with a garnish in keeping with the dish,i.e., either amousselineforcemeat, pilaff rice combined with cream, foie gras and truffles, spaghetti, or noodles with cream.
Having properly smoothed and arranged the selected garnish, the fowl may now be placed, either at one end of any but a round dish, or on a low cushion of fried bread, on which it may be set firmly.
It may also be entirely coated with Mornay sauce, sprinkled with grated cheese, and speedily glazed.
When the body of the bird is dished, its garnish should be set round it in fine, tartlet crusts; itssuprêmes, quickly sliced, should be distributed among the tartlets, and the dish sent to the table with the sauce separately.
By this means, it reaches the table hot, it is served quickly and cleanly; and every person gets a slice of meat, and not garnish only, as was so often the case formerly.
Instead of tartlets, one may use thincroûtonsof bread, of the size of the slices of chicken, and fried in fresh butter.
Thus, for a “Poularde à la Derby,” after having stuffed the pullet with rice, suppressed the bones of the breast, and removed thesuprêmes; all that is necessary is to properly shape the rice, and to dish the fowl on a cushion.
This done, prepare as manycroûtonsand slices of foie-gras,sautédin butter, as there are diners, and arrange them round the pullet—the slices of foie-gras lying on thecroûtons. Now, quickly cut thesuprêmesinto slices; put one of these on each slice of foie-gras, and on each of the latter put a slice of truffle. Put the pullet, thus prepared, in the oven for a few minutes; let it get very hot, and send it to the table with the sauce separately.
In the dining-room the Maître-d’hôtel quickly serves the garnishedcroûtonson hot plates, beside eachcroûtonhe puts a tablespoonful of the rice with which the pullet has been stuffed, and, finally, a tablespoonful of sauce.
In less than two minutes after its entrance into the dining-room, the pullet is thus served warm to each person.
Of course, the above measures refer to the fowl that has to be dished whole and presented; but, when this is not required, the rice withdrawn from the cooked bird need only be set in the centre of a deep, square entrée dish (fitted with a cover),[476]and surrounded by the slicedsuprêmes, with intercalated slices of foie-gras and truffle. The sauce is also served separately in this case. Cover the dish, so that it may stand and keep hot a few minutes, if necessary, without spoiling.
The legs, which are rarely served at a well-ordered dinner, remain in the kitchen together with the carcass.
I cannot too strongly recommend the system just described, whenever the circumstances allow of its being put into practice. It is the only one that ensures an efficient service, calculated to give entire satisfaction to all concerned.
Stuff the pullet with the rice prescribed under No.2256, and poach it. Dish it and coat with Albuféra sauce.
Surround with small tartlet crusts, garnished with truffles raised by means of a spoon the size of a pea; quenelles of the same shape; small button mushrooms, and cocks’ kidneys. Cohere this garnish with Albuféra sauce.
Between each tartlet, place a slice of salted tongue, cut to the shape of a cock’s comb.
Having larded the pullet with tongue and truffle, poach it.
This done, remove thesuprêmes, and replace them bymousselineforcemeat; smooth this forcemeat, giving it the shape of the pullet in so doing, and set to poach in the front of the oven.
Now, coat the piece with Mornay sauce, and glaze quickly. Dish, and surround with tartlet-crusts garnished with asparagus-heads, cohered with butter; place a collop of the reservedsuprêmes(which should have been kept hot) on each tartlet, and border the dish with a thread of pale glaze.
Stud the pullet with truffles, cover it with a Matignon (No.227), wrap it in muslin, and braise it.
Remove thesuprêmes; suppress the bones of the breast; fill the carcass with a garnish of asparagus-heads, cohered with butter, and arrange this garnish as already described under No.1444.
Slice thesuprêmes, and put them back on the garnish, in suchwise as to reconstruct the breast of the fowl. Coat the piece with somewhat stiff and fine suprême sauce; dish it, and surround it with lamb sweet-breads, studded with truffles,[477]braised and glazed, and alternate the sweetbreads with little faggots of asparagus-heads.
Poëlethe pullet. Dish it, and coat it with itspoëling-liquor, combined withtomatédhalf-glaze sauce. On either side of it set some capsicums, stuffed with rice, and some roundels of egg-plant, seasoned, dredged and tossed in butter; alternating the two products.
Poach the pullet, and coat it with a Béchamel sauce flavoured with chicken-essence.
Dish it and surround it with slices of salted tongue, laid tile-fashion on either side; and heaps of carrots and turnips (cut to the shape of balls) and peas and celery, at either end. All these vegetables should be cookedà l’anglaise;i.e., either in boiling water or in steam.
Poach the pullet without colouration; dish it, and coat it with an “Aurore Sauce” (No.60). Surround it with medium-sized, decorated quenelles; and trimmed oval slices of salted tongue, arranged according to fancy.
Stuff the pullet with a fine foie-gras, stiffened in the oven for twenty minutes with a little Madeira, and cooled.
Fill up the pullet with a little, fine sausage-meat; stud it with truffles, and braise it in short moistening.
Dish it on a low cushion, and surround it with braised, lambs’ tongues, alternated with artichoke-bottoms, garnished with a rosette of Soubise purée. As an adjunct, use the braising-liquor, cleared of all grease.
Cook the pullet in light, white stock with one lb. of breast of bacon and a garnish of vegetables as for pot-au-feu. Dish, and surround with the bacon, cut into slices.
Serve, separately, an English parsley sauce, and a sauceboat of the pullet’s cooking-liquor.
Poëlethe pullet, and baste it towards the close of the operation with strong veal stock.
Prepare a garnish of braised celery.
[478]Dish the pullet; surround it with the braised celery, and cover the latter with thepoëling-liquor.
Poëlethe pullet, and swill the saucepan with mushroom essence. Add this swilling-liquor (reduced) to one-quarter pint of half-glaze with Madeira.
Dish the pullet, and surround it with twenty grooved and cooked mushroom-heads. Serve separately the reduced half-glaze, to which add two oz. of fresh butter.
Poach the pullet.
Dish it, and coat it with an Allemande sauce flavoured with mushroom essence.
Surround it with twenty grooved, cooked and very white mushroom-heads.
Prepare a “Poularde Soufflée” after recipe No.1518. Dish it, and surround it with small heaps of crayfishes’ tails, alternated with smallcroûtonsof fried bread, on each of which place a collop of thesuprêmes. Finish off with a slice of truffle on each collop of thesuprêmes.
Serve a Mornay sauce, finished with crayfish butter, separately.
Poëlethe pullet without letting it acquire too much colour.
Dish it, and surround it with small artichoke-bottoms, stewed in butter and garnished with Soubise.
Alternate the artichoke-bottoms with small heaps of chestnuts cooked in consommé and glazed.
Pour a little thickenedpoëling-liquor on the bottom of the dish, and serve what remains of it, separately, in a sauceboat.
Remove thesuprêmes, and the minion fillets. Lard the former with two rows of truffles and two rows of tongue; trim the minion fillets; make five or six slits in each; insert a thin slice of truffle half-way into each slit, and draw the respective ends of the two fillets together in suchwise as to form two rings. Put thesuprêmesand the minion fillets each into a buttered sautépan, and cover the latter.
Remove the pullet’s legs, keeping the skin as long as possible; bone them to within one and one-third inches of the[479]joints, and cut off the claws, aslant, just below the same joints. Garnish the boned regions with godiveau prepared with cream close the opening by means of a few stitches of strong cotton, and truss each leg in such a manner as to imitate a small duck.
Poach these stuffed legs in stock made from the pullet’s carcass.
Also poach thesuprêmesand the minion fillets in good time, with a little mushroom cooking-liquor, and a few drops of lemon juice.
With a pinch of flour mixed with water, stick a friedcroûton(the shape of a pyramid, three inches high and of two inch base) in the middle of a dish.
Around this pyramid, arrange the two stuffed legs and the twosuprêmes; putting each of them on a decorated quenelle with the view of slightly raising them. Set the minion fillets on the legs, and, between the latter and thesuprêmes, lay small heaps of cocks’ combs and kidneys, and some very white mushroom-heads. Pierce thecroûtonwith ahateletgarnished with one truffle, one fine cock’s comb, and a large mushroom.
Serve a suprême sauce separately.
N.B.—This dish is generally bordered, either with noodle-paste, white English paste, or with a chased silver border.
Stuff the pullet with one-half lb. of half-poached noodles, tossed in butter, and combined with a little cream and three oz. of foie-gras cut into large dice.
Poëleit gently; dish it, and coat it with some of itspoëling-liquor, thickened.
Distribute over the pullet a copious amount of raw noodles,sautédin clarified butter; and serve the remainder of the thickenedpoëling-liquor separately.
Poëlethe pullet and put it into aterrine à pâtéwith a garnish consisting of small, glazed onions;chipolatasausages, poached in butter; chestnuts cooked in consommé; fried pieces of bacon; and, if desired, some small glazed carrots.
Add the pullet’s cooking-liquor, and simmer for ten minutes before serving.
Poach the pullet. Dish it and coat it with Chivry sauce (No.78).
Serve aMacédoineof new vegetables; cohered with butter or cream, separately.
Braise the pullet. Dish it and surround it with whole truffles, cooked inMirepoixwith Madeira, and alternated with fine, grilled mushrooms, garnished with artichoke purée.
In front of the pullet set a small, silver shell, in which shape a pyramid of large cocks’ combs, heated in butter.
Between the skin and the fillets of the fowl insert a few fine slices of raw truffle. Lard the pullet and poach it.
When it is ready, strain the cooking-liquor through a napkin; reduce it, and add it to a very white suprême sauce, containing slices of truffle.
Dish the pullet; cook it with some of the sauce, and send what remains, separately, in a sauceboat.
Poëlethe pullet. When it is three-parts done, put it into acocotteand surround it with the following garnish, prepared in advance and stewed in butter;viz:—one-half lb. of carrots and five oz. of turnips, cut into grooved crescents, one inch in diameter; five oz. of small onions cut into thin roundels, and five oz. of celery.
Complete the cooking of the pullet with this garnish, and add to it, when about to serve, three oz. of truffles, cut to the shape of crescents, and one-sixth pint of chicken stock.
Serve the preparation in thecocotte, after having cleared the liquor of all grease.
Stuff the pullet with rice, prepared after recipe No.2256; andpoëleit. Dish, and surround it with collops of foie-gras, tossed in butter (each set on a small, friedcroûton), and alternate these with large, whole truffles, cooked in champagne.
As an adjunct, serve the pullet’s cooking-liquor, cleared of all grease, combined with the cooking-liquor of the truffles and one-sixth pint of veal gravy. Reduce the whole to one-sixth pint and thicken with arrow-root.
Stuff the pullet with rice, prepared after recipe No.2256, and poach it without colouration.
Dish it, and coat it with suprême sauce, flavoured with paprika.
Send a garnish consisting ofcèpeswith cream, separately.
[481]N.B.—This dish was served for the first time to Mme. Adelina Patti, the great singer.
Bone the breast of a fine pullet; season it inside, and fill it with a chicken forcemeat, prepared with cream and mixed with half its weight of very fine sausage-meat.
In the middle of the pullet set a nice salted and cooked calf’s tongue, trimmed and cleared of all cartilage; and place it so that its thin end lies in the region of the bird’s tail.
Sew up the pullet’s belly with thin string, allowing the skin sufficient play not to tear under the pressure of the forcemeat, which swells while cooking. Truss, cover the pullet with a slice of larding bacon, poach, and drain it.
When about to serve, make an incision around the breast with the point of a knife; detach the stuffing with the blade of a knife, passed horizontally on a level with the spine, and cut off, at a stroke, the piece consisting of the pullet’s breast, the stuffing, and the calf’s tongue.
Dish the carcass with the legs and wings still attached, on a low cushion. Cut the breast, lengthwise, into two; and, if the fowl has been properly stuffed, the tongue should then be found neatly bisected. Slice each half, and return them to the carcass in suchwise as to reconstruct the bird and give it an untouched appearance.
Coat lightly with Allemande sauce, combined with very red tongue, cut into dice; and surround with a border of timbales made from a purée of fresh peas (No.2196), each set on an artichoke bottom. Serve a sauceboat of the same sauce as that with which the pullet was coated.
Stuff the pullet with pearl barley cooked in white consommé, well drained, and combined, per lb., with an equal quantity of fine sausage-meat (to which has been added a chopped onion, cooked in butter), and two tablespoonfuls of cream.
Poach the pullet in the usual way; dish it and coat it with Écossaise sauce,i.e., an Allemande sauce, combined with abrunoiseof vegetables: carrots, onions, leeks, and celery, and a large part of the reduced pullet’s poaching-liquor.
Serve a garnish of French beans with cream, separately.
Stuff the pullet with rice, prepared after recipe No.2256, and poach it without colouration. Dish it, and coat it with a[482]curry sauce, combined with two oz. of red capsicums in dice, per pint of sauce.
Serve a garnish of cucumbers with cream, separately.
N.B.—This dish was originated at the Carlton Hotel on the occasion of His Majesty King Edward VII.’s Coronation.
Half-poëlethe pullet in a saucepan.
Line the bottom and sides of an ovalcocottewith thin slices of ham. Put the half-poëledpullet into thiscocotte, together with one lb. of carrots, onions, and celery, all three sliced, fried in butter and moderately seasoned with salt and pepper.
Swill the saucepan with one-third pint of strong veal stock; reduce to half; put this reduced stock into thecocotte; cover the latter; seal down the lid with a thread of paste, and complete the cooking of the pullet in a somewhat hot oven for three-quarters of an hour.
Poach the pullet, and add to the ordinary garnish a bunch consisting of five or six sprigs of tarragon.
Dish, and decorate the pullet’s breast with a nice spray ofblanchedtarragon leaves.
Reduce and strain the pullet’s cooking-liquor, and serve it separately.
Stuff the pullet with one-half lb. of rice, prepared after recipe No.2256.
Poach it; dish it, and coat with a suprême sauce.
Surround with a garnish of cocks’ combs and kidneys, and slices of truffle.
Prepare the pullet as for No.1470; but, instead of lining thecocottewith slices of ham, cut the latter into dice and add these to the garnish, together with four oz. of peas and four oz. of French beans, cut into small lozenges.
Braise the pullet.
Dish it, and surround it with a garnish consisting of small heaps of quenelles made from chicken,mousselineforcemeat; grooved, button-mushroom heads; cocks’ combs and kidneys;[483]slices of truffle, andblanchedolives. Add a small quantity of half-glaze sauce prepared with truffle essence.
Send a sauceboat of the same sauce separately.
Stuff the pullet with one-half lb. of noodles, slightly tossed in butter, andpoëleit.
Swill the saucepan with one-quarter pint of champagne. Dish the pullet and surround it with medium-sized truffles, cooked in champagne, alternated with small heaps of cooked and glazed chestnuts, and place a cock’s kidney between each heap.
Serve, separately, a half-glaze sauce, flavoured with truffle essence and combined with the reduced swilling-liquor.
Braise the pullet brown.
Dish it and surround it with spoon-moulded quenelles of forcemeat, combined with chopped mushrooms and truffles; large oval quenelles, decorated with tongue and truffle; grooved button-mushroom heads; cocks’ combs and kidneys; glazed small lambs’ sweetbreads; and olive-shaped truffles.
Slightly coat this garnish with Godard sauce, combined with some reduced braising-liquor, and send what remains of the latter in a sauceboat.
Poach the pullet, and let it half-cool.
Now remove thesuprêmesand the bones of the breast; fill up the cavity in the carcass with a garnish consisting of larks’ fillets,sautédjust before dishing; grooved button-mushroom heads; cocks’ combs and kidneys; and cohere the whole by means of Béchamel sauce, finished with truffle essence.
Slice thesuprêmes, and return them to their place, setting a slice of truffle between each. Coat the pullet with a stiff Allemande sauce; sprinkle with grated Parmesan and melted butter; glaze quickly, and serve at once.
Cut up the fowl as for asautédish, and cook it in butter, under cover. Then set the pieces in a very hotcocotte, and distribute thereupon five oz. of raw truffles cut into thick slices and slightly salted and peppered.
Swill the sautépan with a few tablespoonfuls of white wine; add a little chicken stock; pour this liquor into thecocotte;[484]thoroughly close the latter, and put it in a very hot oven for eight or ten minutes with the view of cooking the truffles.
Serve the preparation as it stands in thecocotte.
N.B.—This dish was invented at the Grand Hotel at Monte Carlo, as a means of offering to those who could not wait for the preparation of truffled pullets a substitute of a somewhat similar nature to the latter.
Poach the pullet, and add to it ten small olive-shaped carrots and ten small onions.
Dish, and surround the bird with the carrots and the onions, arranged in small heaps.
Serve, separately, a sauceboat containing the pullet’s cooking-liquor, and a cellarof kitchen salt.
Stuff the pullet with rice, prepared after recipe No.2253, andpoëleit.
Dish it, and coat it with very strong reduced chicken stock, thickened by means of arrowroot.
Poëlethe pullet.
Dish it; coat it with Hongroise sauce, and surround it with timbales of pilaff rice, combined with tomato pulp, cut into dice.
Send a Hongroise sauce separately.
Boil the pullet gently in light, white stock, until it is well cooked. With the cooking-liquor prepare a suprême sauce, and add thereto the almost entirely reduced poaching-liquor of twenty-four oysters, one-half pint of cream, and the twenty-four oysters (cleared of their beards).
Dish the pullet, and pour this sauce over it.
Poach the pullet.
Dish it; coat with Indienne sauce, and serve a timbale of rice à l’Indienne, prepared after recipe No.2254, separately.
Stuff the pullet with rizotto, combined with two oz. of truffle slices and eighteen crayfishes’ tails, and poach it in white stock containing one bottle of Chablis wine.
With the pullet’s cooking-liquor prepare a highly-seasoned[485]suprême sauce. Dish the bird on a small cushion; coat it with sauce, and surround it with fine black truffles, cooked in champagne, and set each on a small, round, and slightly hollowedcroûtonof fried bread.
Serve the remainder of the sauce separately.
Poach the pullet, keeping it very white. Dish it, and serve it plain.
Send, separately, an ivory sauce, a sauceboat of the pullet’s cooking-liquor, and some kind of garnish, such as macaroni or noodles with creamcèpes, cucumber, &c.
Stuff the pullet with rice, prepared after recipe No.2256, and poach it.
Dish it, and coat it with an Indienne sauce.
A garnish ofcèpesor cucumber with cream may be served at the same time.
Insert a whole foie gras into the pullet, the former having been studded with truffles, poached for fifteen minutes in some succulent veal stock, and one glassful of old Madeira, and afterwardscooled.
Stiffen and colour the pullet for twenty minutes in the oven, sprinkling it with butter the while.
Cover it entirely with thick slices of truffles; cover these with slices of bacon, and envelop the whole in a layer of plain dough, which should be well sealed up. Set the pullet, prepared in this way, on a baking-tray; make a slit in the top of the paste for the escape of steam during the cooking process, and cook in a moderate oven for one and three-quarter hours.
This pullet is served as it stands, cold or hot.
Stuff the pullet with one lb. of maize with cream, combined with one and one-half oz. of capsicums cut into dice, andpoëleit. Dish it and border it, on either side, with timbales of rice and fried bananas, arranged alternately. At either end of the dish set acroustadeof lining paste, garnished with maize “à la crème.”
Braise the pullet.
Dish it, and surround it with (1) fine truffles, cooked in champagne, alternated with (2) large, round quenelles ofmousselineforcemeat. At either end of the dish, which should[486]be oval, set a small silver shell of the same height as the cushion on which the pullet lies.
Garnish these shells with very white, curled cocks’ combs and cocks’ kidneys. Add the reduced braising-liquor to a half-glaze sauce, flavoured with truffle essence; cover the bottom of the dish with some of this sauce, and send what remains, separately, in a sauceboat.
Poach the pullet.
Remove thesuprêmes; suppress the bones of the breast without touching either the pinions or the legs, and set the carcass, thus prepared, on a very low cushion of bread or rice, so that it may be steady.
Fill the carcass with macaroni, cohered with cheese and cream, and combined with three oz. of foie gras in dice, and one-half oz. of ajulienneof truffles.
Slice thesuprêmes, and reconstruct them on the macaroni, placing a fine slice of truffle between each. Coat the pullet with a stiff and unctuous cream sauce; sprinkle with grated cheese, and glaze quickly at the salamander.
Serve separately a creamy suprême sauce.
Fry quickly ten larks in butter, insert these into a fine pullet, and braise the latter in veal stock and white Savoy wine, in equal quantities. Prepare a milk polenta (No.2294); spread it on a tray in layers one inch thick, and let it cool. Now stamp it with a round cutter one and one-half inches in diameter, and, a few minutes before serving, dredge these roundels of polenta, and brown them in clarified butter.
Just before dishing up, sprinkle them with grated Parmesan, and glaze them quickly at the salamander.
Dish the pullet on a very low cushion of fried bread; surround it with the glazed roundels of polenta; pour a little of the fowl’s cooking-liquor, thickened, over the dish, and send what remains of it in a sauceboat.
Serve at the same time a vegetable-dish of white Piedmont truffles, slightly heated in a little butter and some consommé.
Poach the pullet in some rather gelatinous white stock. Slice six carrots, six new potatoes, six new onions; put the whole into a saucepan, and cook gently in the fowl’s poaching-liquor, with the lid of the saucepan off. When the vegetables[487]are cooked, and the liquor is sufficiently reduced, set the pullet in a special ovalcocotte, and cover it with the prepared vegetables and their cooking-liquor.
Poëlethe pullet.
Dish it; surround it with small timbales of rice with saffron, alternated with tartlet crusts, garnished withconcassedtomatoes cooked in butter, and set a fine, stoned olive on each tartlet.
Serve a tomato sauce separately.
Stud the pullet with truffles, and poach it.
Dish it; coat it with suprême sauce, and surround it with poached lamb sweetbreads, spoon-moulded quenelles ofmousseline, chicken forcemeat, and grooved mushroom heads, arranged alternately.
Serve a suprême sauce separately.
Poach the pullet.
Dish it; coat it with suprême sauce, and surround it on the one side with quenelles of pink,mousseline, chicken forcemeat, and on the other with a border of fair-sized, very black truffles.
Lard the pullet with truffles, and braise it in Madeira.
Set it on an oval dish, and, at either end of the latter, place a fine, decorated quenelle; on either side of the fowl arrange some artichoke-bottoms, garnished with asparagus-heads, cohered with butter.
Serve separately a half-glaze sauce with Madeira, to which the braising-liquor of the pullet has been added.
Poach the pullet.
Dish it; coat it with a suprême sauce, finished with crayfish butter, and surround it with small heaps of quenelles with crayfish butter, crayfishes’ tails, and slices of truffle.
Stuff the pullet with one lb. of pilaff rice with saffron, and poach it.
Remove itssuprêmes; suppress the breast-bones by means of scissors, without touching the rice, and coat the latter with[488]Béchamel sauce coloured with tomato sauce and flavoured with saffron.
Dish; reconstruct the slicedsuprêmeson the rice, and set between each slice another of chow-chow stewed in butter. Cover the pullet with the same sauce as that indicated above, and surround it with quarters of chow-chow cooked in butter, or serve this garnish separately.
Poëlethe pullet without letting it acquire overmuch colour.
Strain thepoëling-liquor; clear it of all grease; add thereto a little tomato purée, and thicken it with arrowroot. Finish with three oz. of butter, the juice of half a lemon, and a little cayenne.
Dish the pullet; surround it with a border of egg-shaped croquettes of egg with truffles, and send the sauce separately.
Poach the pullet.
Dish it; cover it with Allemande sauce, and decorate it on top with slices of truffles and salted tongue cut to the shape of cocks’ combs.
Surround with spoon-moulded quenelles of chicken forcemeat, half of which should have been combined with chopped truffles, and the other half with chopped, salted ox-tongue.
Arrange the quenelles round the fowl, alternately, and border the dish with a thread of pale glaze.
Stuff the pullet with rice, prepared after recipe No.2256, and poach it in white, chicken stock. Dish it on a low cushion; cover it with a suprême sauce, flavoured with paprika, and surround it with fair-sized artichoke-bottoms, each garnished with a fine truffle, coated with pale meat glaze.
Serve separately a sauceboat of the same sauce as that already used in coating the pullet.
Brown the pullet in butter, and put it into an ovalcocotte.
Around it set a garnish consisting of four oz. of the red part of a carrot, three oz. of onion, and two oz. of celery, all three minced somewhat finely. Complete the cooking of the pullet with the vegetables, sprinkling it often the while with good veal stock.
Serve the preparation as it stands in thecocotte.
Stuff the pullet with one-half lb. of truffles in the shape of large olives, cooked in two oz. of melted pork fat, and mixed, while hot, with one lb. of fresh, grated pork fat, rubbed through a sieve. String the piece, taking care to close all its openings, andpoëleit gently.
Dish it; coat it with a very fine half-glaze sauce, made from thepoëling-liquor and finished with truffle essence.
Poach the pullet in a little white stock, and surround it (when setting it to cook) with six small new onions, six small carrots, six small new potatoes, and one-quarter pint of freshly-shelled peas.
Set the pullet in acocottewith the garnish of vegetables, and coat it with its reduced cooking-liquor, combined with some excellent suprême sauce.
Stuff the pullet with two-thirds lb. of rizotto combined with one-half lb. of white sliced truffles, andpoëleit in the usual way.
Dish it, and serve at the same time a thickened chicken gravy to which has been added the reducedpoëling-liquor.
Stuff the pullet with three-quarters lb. of rice, combined with five oz. of peeled andconcassedtomatoes, cooked in butter.
Poëlethe pullet. Dish it; coat it with a Portugaise sauce, combined with thepoëling-liquor, and surround it with a garnish of medium-sized tomatoes, stuffed with rice “à la Portugaise.”
Poach the pullet.
Dish it, and coat it with an Allemande sauce, flavoured with mushroom essence and finished with two oz. of asparagus-head butter per pint of sauce. Surround it withcroustadesof Duchesse potatoes, rolled in breadcrumbs and melted butter, fried, emptied, then garnished with asparagus-heads cohered with butter, and each surmounted by a fine slice of truffle. Between eachcroustadeset a faggot of very green asparagus-heads.
Stuff the pullet with rice prepared after recipe (No.2256), and poach it. Dish it; coat it with suprême sauce, and surround it with spinachsubrics, cooked at the last moment; add[490]to this garnish some shavings of white truffles, barely heated in butter, and set in a shell placed behind the fowl.
Stuff the pullet with one lb. ofmousselineforcemeat of chicken, combined with three oz. of crayfish purée, and poach it.
Dish it; coat it with Allemande sauce, flavoured with truffle essence, and surround it with the following garnish, arranged in smallheaps:—Spoon-moulded quenelles ofmousseline, chicken forcemeat; white, curled, cocks’ combs; slices of raw foie gras, stamped out with a round cutter, and tossed in butter; small, grooved, cooked, and very white mushrooms; olive-shaped truffles, and one round quenelle decorated with truffles at either end of the dish.
Poëlethe pullet.
When it is ready, remove thesuprêmesand the breast bones, and fill the carcass with a garnish of macaroni and cream, combined with foie gras and truffle dice. Cover the macaroni with Mornay sauce; glaze quickly, and dish the pullet on a low cushion.
Surround it with small tartlet crusts garnished with cocks’ combs and kidneys, cohered with Allemande sauce, and set a slice of thesuprêmeson each tartlet. Put a silver shell containing a pyramid of truffles behind the fowl.
Serve an Allemande sauce, flavoured with truffle essence, separately.