[788]CHAPTER XXIICESIces, with their accompanying “petits fours,” bring the dinner to a close—at least as far as Cookery is concerned; and, when they are well prepared and daintily dished, they are the consummation of all that is delicate and good. In no other department of the work has the culinary artist so freely indulged his fancy, or created such delectable kickshaws; and, though Italy be the cradle of the ice-worker’s art, though the Neapolitans have deservedly maintained their reputation as authorities in this matter, to French workmen, certainly, is due the credit of those innovations which have perfected this important branch of dietetic science.2744—THE MAKING OF ICESWhatever be the kind of ices required, they should always be prepared in advance; for none of these preparations can be made ready at a moment’s notice.There are two distinct operations in the confection ofices:—(1) The making of the preparation.(2) The freezing and the moulding of the preparation. I shall begin by dealing with the second operation, which remains the same for all ices, and is the essential part of the procedure.To freeze an ice preparation is to surround it with broken ice, mixed with sodium chloride (sea-salt or freezing salt) and saltpetre. The action of these two salts upon the ice causes a considerable drop in the temperature, which speedily congeals any contiguous liquid. Subject to their nature, ices are either moulded and frozen directly in their moulds, like the light ices: iced Biscuits, icedSoufflés, Puddings,Mousses, Parfaits, Bombes, etc.; or first frozen in a special utensil called a freezer, and then moulded and frozen afresh. Cream and syrup ices are prepared by the second method; and this I shall now describe.The freezers, in which the freezing takes place, are generally wielded by hand, either directly or by means of some mechanism. They should be of pure tin, and fitted, at their base on to a central[789]pivot which turns in a socket, fixed in the wooden case which holds the freezer.Having hermetically closed the latter, surround it with broken ice containing three lbs. of salt and eight oz. of saltpetre per twenty-five lbs.The freezer should be one-third of its height out of the ice, in order that no particle of salted ice may accidentally fall into the preparation while it is being frozen. The ice should be snugly massed, by means of a special pestle, round the freezer. This operation constitutes the packing, and should be effected at least ten minutes in advance if possible.Having thus prepared the freezer, pour into it the preparation to be frozen and then either keep it in motion by rocking the utensil to and fro, by grasping the handle on the cover (if the apparatus is worked by hand), or by turning the handle if the utensil is on a central axle, fitted with the usual mechanism. In either case, the rotary movement of the utensil causes the preparation to splash continually against the sides of the freezer, where it rapidly congeals, and the congealed portions are removed by means of a special spatula, as quickly as they form, until the whole becomes a smooth and homogeneous mass. The delicacy and creaminess of the ice depend a great deal upon the care with which this freezing operation is effected; hence the preference which is now given to freezers fitted with a mechanism whereby two fans revolve inside in a direction opposite to that of the body of the machine, and thus not only detach the congealed portions of the preparation under treatment from the sides of the receptacle, but also work it with a regularity impossible to human motion.2745—THE MOULDING OF ICESHaving thus frozen the preparation, it may now be set in rock-form on a napkin, as it used sometimes to be served in the past, or in glasses. But as a rule it is put into special moulds, having closely-fitting covers. These moulds should be carefully filled, and banged on a folded napkin, that the ice may settle and drive out any air which might be the cause of holes being found in the preparation. When it is filled, place the mould in a receptacle of a suitable size, and surround it with broken ice, prepared as for the packing. The mould should remain at least an hour in the ice, in the case of an ordinary ice, and an extra two hours if the ice be light and not previously frozen as are the Bombes.When about to serve, take the mould out of the ice; wash it to rid it of the taint of salt; dip it in tepid water for an instant, that the surface of the preparation inside may melt and separate easily[790]from the mould. Overturn the mould; and turn out the ice upon a folded napkin lying on a dish.2746—PREPARATIONS FOR SIMPLE ICESPreparations for simple ices are of two kinds: those made from cream, and those made from syrup; the latter being principally used for fruit ices.As the quantities of sugar and eggs used for these preparations vary exceedingly, the following recipes have been based upon a working average.If creamier ices be required, all that is needed is an increase in the sugar and egg-yolks per quart of milk; while, if the ices be required harder but less creamy, the two ingredients above mentioned should be proportionately reduced.As an example of the difference that may exist between cream preparations, I might instance the case of ice-cream, which may be made from seven to sixteen egg-yolks, and six oz. to one lb. of sugar per quart of milk. In regard to ices made from syrups and fruit, their preparations may measure from 15° to 30° or 32°. (saccharometer) respectively.2747—ICE-CREAM PREPARATION (Generic Recipe)Work two-thirds lb. of sugar and ten egg-yolks in a saucepan until the mixture reaches theribbon-stage. Dilute it, little by little, with one quart of boiling milk, and stir over a moderate fire until the preparation veneers the withdrawn spoon. Avoid boiling, as it might decompose the custard.Strain the whole into a basin and stir it from time to time until it is quite cold.N.B.—For the various ice-cream preparations, the amount of sugar and number of egg-yolks, as also the procedure, do not change. They are only distinguishable by the particular flavour or infusion which may happen to characterise them.Various Ice-Cream Preparations.2748—ALMOND ICE-CREAMFinely pound three and a half oz. of freshly-skinned sweet almonds and five bitter almonds; adding to them, little by little, in order to facilitate the pounding, a few tablespoonfuls of water.Set this almond paste to infuse, twenty minutes beforehand, in the boiling milk, and prepare the cream as directed above, with the same quantities of sugar and egg-yolks.[791]2749—ASPARAGUS ICE-CREAMParboil six oz. of asparagus-tops or sprew for two minutes. Thoroughly drain them; quickly pound them, together with a few tablespoonfuls of milk, and set this asparagus paste to infuse in the boiled milk.2750—FILBERT ICE-CREAMSlightly torrify three and half oz. of filberts; finely pound them, together with a few tablespoonfuls of milk, and set the resulting paste to infuse for twenty minutes in the boiled milk.2751—COFFEE ICE-CREAMAdd two oz. of freshly-grilled and crushed coffee seeds to the boiled milk, and let them infuse for twenty minutes.Or, with an equivalent amount of ground coffee and half a pint of water, prepare a very strong infusion and add it to one and a half pints of boiled milk.2752—CHOCOLATE ICE-CREAMDissolve eight oz. of grated chocolate in half pint of water, and add thereto one quart of boiled milk, in which a large stick of vanilla has previously been infused. For this preparation, eight oz. of sugar and seven egg-yolks will be found sufficient, if the chocolate used be sweet.2753—WALNUT ICE-CREAMFinely pound three and a half oz. of well-peeled walnuts with a few tablespoonfuls of water, and set them to infuse for twenty minutes in boiling milk.2754—PISTACHIO ICE-CREAMPound two oz. of sweet almonds, and two and a half oz. of freshly-peeled pistachios; moistening them with a few drops of milk. Set the paste to infuse for twenty minutes in the boiled milk.2755—PRALINED ICE-CREAMPound and rub through a sieve four oz. of almondpralin, and add thereto one quart of previously-prepared vanilla-flavoured custard.2756—TEA ICE-CREAMAdd one pint of very strong tea to one and a half pints of boiled milk, and make the preparation in the usual way.2757—VANILLA ICE-CREAMWhen the milk has boiled, infuse in it one large stick of vanilla for twenty minutes.N.B.—If these various preparations be required more creamy, the milk may be wholly or partly replaced by fresh cream. Also[792]when the preparation is congealed, it may be combined with one-sixth pint of whipped cream per quart.2758—PREPARATIONS FOR FRUIT ICESThe base of these preparations is a syrup of sugar at 32° (saccharom.), to which a purée of fruit, an essence, or a liqueur is added, which will give the ice its character. All these preparations require lemon juice, the quantity of which varies according to the acidity of the fruit used, but which, even in the case of the tartest fruits, should not measure less than the amount that may be extracted from a whole lemon per quart of the preparation.Orange juice may also be used, more especially for red-fruit ices; while the juices of the orange and the lemons combined throw the flavour of the fruit under treatment into remarkable relief.In the season the juices are extracted from fresh fruit, pressed and rubbed through tammy. When the season is over the preserved juice of fruit is used.All red-fruit ices are improved, once they are set, by an addition of half pint of raw, fresh cream per quart of the preparation.2759—THE MAKING OF FRUIT ICE PREPARATIONSThese preparations are made in two ways asfollows:—(1) Rub the fruit through a fine sieve, after having pounded it if its nature admit of it. Dilute the purée with an equal quantity of cold sugar syrup at 32° (saccharom.), and add lemon juice in a quantity subject to the acidity of the treated fruit.This mixture of ingredients should always be cold, and should be tested with saccharom (pèse-sirops). If the instrument marks more than the proper degree, dilute the preparation with a little water; if it mark less, add syrup until the required degree is reached.(2) Pound the fruit with an average quantity of ten oz. of sugar per lb.; but remember that this proportion may be modified either way, subject to the sweetness of the fruit used.Rub the whole through a sieve; and then, to obtain the proper degree of strength, add the necessary quantity of filtered water.2760—LIQUEUR-ICE PREPARATIONSThese preparations are made by adding to the syrup or the cream which forms the base of the ice a given quantity of the selected liqueur, the latter being generally added when the preparation is cold.The proportion of one-fifth pint of liqueur per quart of syrup may be taken as an average. Subject to the requirements this liqueur[793]flavour may be intensified with strong tea for rum ices; with orange-rind for Curaçao-flavoured ices, with fresh, crushed cherry-stones for Kirsch ices, etc.These preparations should always contain some lemon-juice, and their strength should reach the average degree indicated for fruit ices.Various Fruit-Ice Preparations.2761—APRICOT ICETake one pint of fresh apricot purée, one pint of syrup, and the juice of two lemons. The strength of the preparation should measure 18° or 19° (saccharometer).2762—PINE-APPLE ICESet to macerate for two hours one pint of grated or pounded skinned pine-apple in one pint of syrup. Rub the whole through a sieve, add the juice of one lemon and a few drops of Kirsch, and test the preparation, which should measure from 18° to 20°.2763—BANANA ICESet one pint of pounded banana pulp to macerate for two hours in one pint of Maraschino-flavoured syrup. Add the juice of three lemons, and rub through a sieve. This preparation should measure from 20° to 21°.2764—CHERRY ICECrush one pint of stoned cherries, and pound their stones. Set the whole to macerate for one hour in one pint of syrup, flavoured with Kirsch. Rub through a sieve and add the juice of a half-lemon. The preparation should measure 21°.2765—LEMON ICESet thezestsof three lemon peels to infuse for three hours in one pint of cold syrup. Add the juice of four lemons and of two oranges, and strain the whole. The preparation should measure 22°.2766—STRAWBERRY ICEMix one pint of strawberry purée with one pint of syrup, and add thereto the juice of two oranges and of two lemons. Or pound two lbs. of strawberries with one lb. of powdered sugar; add the juice of oranges and lemons as above; rub the whole through a sieve, and add the necessary amount of filtered water to bring the preparation to 16°or 18°.2767—RASPBERRY ICEProceed as for No.2766, and use the same quantities.[794]2768—RED-CURRANT ICEMix one pint of red-currant juice with one pint of syrup. In view of the natural acidity of the fruit, lemon-juice may be dispensed with. The preparation should measure 20°.2769—TANGERINE ICEThrow thezestsof the rinds of four tangerines into one and one-half pints of boiling syrup. Let the whole cool; rub it through a sieve, and finish it with the juice of six tangerines, two oranges and one lemon. The preparation should measure 21°.2770—MELON ICEMix one pint of very ripe melon pulp with one pint of syrup, the juice of two oranges and one lemon, and one tablespoonful of orange-flower water. Rub the whole through a sieve. The mixture should measure 22°.2771—ORANGE ICEThrow thezestsof the rinds of four oranges into one quart of boiling syrup. Let the whole cool; add the juice of four oranges and one lemon, and rub it through a sieve. It should measure 21°.2772—PEACH ICEProceed as for No.2761, using wall peaches if possible.2773—PEAR ICEPeel, core, and pound some fine William pears, with one lb. of powdered sugar per two-thirds lb. of the fruit; and add thereto the juice of two lemons per lb. of pears. Rub the whole through a sieve, and add enough filtered water to bring it to 22°.2774—PLUM ICEProceed as for No.2761, bringing the preparation to 20°.2775—GRAPE ICEAdd to one and one-half pints of the juice of sweet, pressed grapes the juice of three lemons and the necessary quantity of powdered sugar to bring the preparation to 20°. Rub the whole through a sieve.2776—VIOLET ICEPut half a lb. of cleaned violet petals into one and one-half pints of boiling syrup. Let them infuse for ten minutes; strain the whole through a sieve; let it cool, and finish it with the juice of three lemons. The preparation should measure from 20° to 21°.[795]Various Ices.2777—GLACE ALHAMBRATake aMadeleine-mould;clotheits bottom and sides with vanilla ice-cream and fill it with Chantilly cream, combined with fresh strawberries, macerated for two hours in Kümmel, which should afterwards be added to the Chantilly cream.2778—GLACE CARMENTake a fluted mould. Garnish it with vertical and alternate layers of raspberry ice, coffee ice, and vanilla ice-cream.2779—GLACE COMTESSE MARIETake a special square mould, even or ornamented on the top.Clotheit with strawberry ice; fill it with vanilla ice-cream; and, after turning it out, decorate it, by means of a piping-bag (fitted with a grooved pipe), with vanilla ice-cream.2780—GLACE COUCHER DE SOLEILSelect one pound of fine very ripe strawberries, and put them in a silver timbale. Sprinkle them with ten ounces of powdered sugar and one liqueur-glass full of Grand-Marnier liqueur; cover the timbale and keep it on ice for half an hour.Then rub the strawberries through a sieve; and, with their purée, make a preparation after the directions given under Fruit Ices. Freeze this preparation in the freezer, and, when it is set, combine with it one pint of Chantilly cream. Now cover the freezer; surround it afresh with ice if necessary, and keep it thus for thirty-five to forty minutes. This done, dish the ice preparation with care in pyramid form in crystal bowls.N.B.—This ice gets its name from its colour, which should be that of the western sky during a fine sunset.2781—GLACE DAME-JEANNETake aMadeleine-mould;clotheit with vanilla ice-cream, and fill it with Chantilly cream, combined withpralinedorange flowers.2782—GLACE DORATake aMadeleine-mould;clotheit with vanilla ice-cream, and fill it with Kirsch-flavoured Chantilly cream combined with pine-apple dice and Bar red-currant jam.2783—GLACE ÉTOILE DU BERGERTake a star-shaped mould, or aMadeleine-mouldwith a star on its bottom.Clotheit with raspberry ice, and fill it with BénédictineflavouredMousse.[796]Turn it out upon a regular disc, consisting of a thick layer of white spun sugar, lying on a dish. This spun sugar throws the ice into relief, and emits rays which dart out from between the points of the star.2784—GLACE FLEURETTETake a square mould. Garnish it with strawberry and pine-apple ice, laid in very regular, superposed layers. After turning it out decorate with lemon ice.2785—GLACE FRANCILLONTake a square mould;clotheit with coffee ice, and fill it with liqueur-brandy ice.2786—FROMAGE GLACÉThese ices are made in fluted moulds, and generally with two differently flavoured and coloured ices, set vertically in the mould.2787—GLACE DES GOURMETSTake a “bombe” mould.Clotheit withpralined, vanilla-ice cream. Fill it with alternate layers of chestnut ice flavoured with rum, and vanilla-flavoured Chantilly cream. When the ice is turned out, roll it inpralinedsplintered almonds.2788—MOULDED ICESThese ices are made in large or small moulds.The large ices are moulded in tin moulds, fitted with hinged covers, and ornamented with some design. The small ones, which are generally served at evening parties, or are used to garnish larger ices, are made in similar moulds, shaped like flowers, fruit, birds, leaf-sprays, etc.Any ice preparation may be used for these ices; but, as a rule, the preparation should have something in keeping with the design of the mould used.Small moulded ices may be kept packed until they are served. They may also be turned out in advance and kept in the refrigerator.2789—GLACE DES ILESTake aMadeleine-mould;clotheit with vanilla ice-cream, and fill it with pine-apple ice.2790—MADELEINE GLACÉETake aMadeleine-mould. Fill it with vanilla ice-cream, combined with half its bulk of Chantilly cream and candied fruit macerated in Kirsch.[797]2791—MANDARINES GLACÉESCut the tangerines on top, with a round, even cutter, in suchwise as to remove a roundel of their peel with the stalk attached, and two leaves adhering thereto.With the juice of the tangerines prepare some tangerine ice, after the directions given under Fruit-ice Preparations. Fill the tangerines with this ice; cover them with the roundels removed at the start; and, with a brush, sprinkle the rinds of the fruit with water, and place them in a refrigerator.As soon as the tangerines are coated with frost, serve them on a napkin.2792—MANDARINES GLACÉES AUX PERLES DES ALPESEmpty the tangerines as above, and garnish them inside with tangerinemousse, with which Chartreuse bon-bons have been mixed. Cover them, and frost them as directed above.2793—GLACE MARIE-THÉRÈSETake aMadeleine-mould;clotheit with chocolate ice, and fill it with vanilla-flavoured Chantilly cream.After turning out, decorate it with pine-apple ice.2794—MERINGUES GLACÉESGarnish somemeringueshells with some kind of spoon-moulded ice, and set them on a napkin.Or, garnish the shells more sparingly and join them together in twos.2795—GLACE PLOMBIÈRETake a parfait mould. Garnish it with vanilla-ice cream combined with candied fruit, macerated in Kirsch; spreading the preparation in alternate layers with apricot jam.COUPES.We are now concerned with bowls garnished, either with differently-flavoured ices, or with ices combined with Chantilly cream or candied fruit. The bowls used for this purpose should be of crystal.2796—COUPES D’ANTIGNYThree-parts fill the bowls with Alpine-strawberry ice, or, failing this, four-seasons strawberry ice, combined with very light and strongly-flavoured raw cream. The two most perfect examples of this cream are the “Fleurette Normande,” and that which in the South of France is called “CrèmeNiçoise,” and which comes from Alpine pastures.[798]Upon the ice of each bowl set a half-peach, poached in vanilla-flavoured syrup; and veil the whole thinly with spun sugar.2797—COUPES CLO-CLOGarnish the bottom of the bowls with vanilla-ice cream, combined with fragments of candied chestnuts, macerated in Maraschino. Set a candied chestnut in the middle of the ice, and surround it by means of a piping-bag with a border of Chantilly cream, containing strawberry purée.2798—COUPES DAME BLANCHEThree-parts garnish the bowls with almond-milk ice. Upon the ice in each bowl set an overturned half-peach, poached in vanilla-flavoured syrup, the hollow of which should be filled with Bar red-currant jam. Surround the peaches with a thread of lemon ice, laid by means of a piping-bag.2799—COUPES DENISEGarnish the bowls with Moka ice, and sprinkle the latter with sweets containing liqueur (preferably rum). Cover with Chantilly cream laid on by means of the spoon.2800—COUPES EDNA MAYGarnish the bottom of the bowls with vanilla ice-cream, and upon the latter set some very cold stewed cherries. Cover the latter with a cone of Chantilly cream, tinted pink by means of a fresh raspberry purée.2801—COUPES ELIZABETHThese coupes do not contain ice. They are garnished with very cold stewed choice bigaroon cherries, poached in a Kirsch- and cherry-brandy-flavoured syrup. The fruit is covered with Chantilly cream which is laid on by means of a spoon, and sprinkled with powdered spices in which cinnamon should predominate.2802—COUPES EMMA CALVEGarnish the bottom of the bowls withpralinedvanilla ice-cream. Upon the latter set some Kirsch-flavoured stewed cherries, and cover the latter with raspberry purée.2803—COUPES EUGENIEGarnish the bowls with vanilla ice-cream, combined with broken candied chestnuts. Cover the ice with Chantilly cream and upon the latter sprinkle some crystallised violets.[799]2804—COUPESA LA FAVORITEGarnish the bowls vertically, half with Kirsch-Maraschino-flavoured ice, and half with vanilla ice-cream. Border them with a thread of pine-apple ice, and in the middle set some Chantilly cream combined with strawberry purée.2805—COUPES GERMAINEGarnish the bottom of the bowls with vanilla ice, and distribute over it half-sugared cherries, macerated in Kirsch. Cover the cherries with a dry purée of chestnuts, squeezed out to resemble vermicelli, and border the bowls with Chantilly cream.2806—COUPES GRESSACGarnish the bottom of the bowls with vanilla ice-cream, and upon the latter in each bowl set three small macaroons, saturated with Kirsch. Upon the macaroons set an overturned poached half-peach, the hollow of which should be garnished with Bar red-currant jam. Surround the peaches with a border of Chantilly cream.2807—COUPES JACQUESGarnish the bowls vertically, half with lemon and half with strawberry ice. Between the two ices, on top of the bowl, set a tablespoonful of amacédoineof fresh fruit, macerated in Kirsch.2808—COUPESA LA MALMAISONGarnish the bowls with vanilla ice-cream, combined with peeled Muscadel grapes. Veil with spun sugar.2809—COUPESA LA MEXICAINEGarnish the bowls with tangerine ice, combined with pine-apple cut into very small dice.2810—COUPES MIREILLEGarnish the bowls, half with vanilla ice-cream, and half with red-currant ice with cream. In the middle of each bowl set a nectarine poached in vanilla-flavoured syrup, the stone of which should be replaced by Bar white-currant jam.Decorate with Chantilly cream, and cover with a veil of spun sugar.2811—COUPES PETIT DUCGarnish the bowls with vanilla ice-cream. Set in each a poached half-peach garnished with Bar red-currant jam. Surround the peaches with a thread of lemon ice.2812—COUPES RÊVE DE BÉBÉGarnish the bowls, half with pine-apple ice and half with raspberry ice.[800]Between the two ices set a line of small strawberries, macerated in orange juice. Border the bowls with Chantilly cream, and sprinkle the latter with crystallised violets.2813—COUPES MADAME SANS-GÊNEGarnish the bottom and sides of the bowls with a layer of vanilla ice-cream. Fill them with Bar red-currant jam, and cover the latter, by means of a spoon, with Chantilly cream.2814—COUPES TUTTI-FRUTTISprinkle the bottom of the bowls with various fresh fruits cut into dice; garnish the bowls with strawberry, pine-apple and lemon ices, spread alternately with layers of the same fruits.2815—COUPES VENUSHalf-fill the bowls with vanilla ice-cream.In the middle of each bowl set a small peach, poached in vanilla-flavoured syrup, with a very red, small cherry upon it.Border the peaches with a thread of Chantilly cream.2816—LIGHT ICESThese ices differ from those dealt with above, in that they are moulded and frozen directly, without a sojourn in the freezer.To this class belong the ices most commonly served and the best; and, since their preparation requires no special utensils, they may be served everywhere: such are the “Iced Biscuits,” the “Bombes,” the “Mousses,” the “Parfaits,” the “Puddings,” and the “Iced Soufflés.”These different kinds of ices greatly resemble one another, and their names, which are puzzling at times, are only a matter of fancy.2817—VARIOUS PREPARATIONSThe old iced-biscuit preparation consisted of an English custard, prepared from one lb. of sugar, twelve egg-yolks, and one pint of milk.When the custard was cooked, it used to be strained into a basin, left to cool (being fanned the while), and then placed upon ice, and finished with the whisk. Originally this cream was moulded at this stage; but now it is customary to add one quart of whipped cream to it; which operation renders the recipe more like that of a Bombe, which, in its turn, resembles that of the preparation forMousses.[801]Iced Biscuits.2818—PREPARATION FOR ICED BISCUITSWhisk in a copper basin, in abain-marie, twelve egg-yolks and one lb. of powdered sugar, until the paste gets very firm and reaches theribbon-stage.Take the basin off the fire, and whisk until the whole is quite cold. Then, add eight oz. ofItalianmeringueand one pint of whisked cream.2819—THE MOULDING OF ICED BISCUITSThese biscuits are moulded in rectangular brick-shaped cases, fitted with lids, top and bottom.Generally, the preparation moulded in the covers is of a different flavour and colour from the one filling the middle of the mould.For example, one of the covers may be garnished with strawberry, and the other with violet preparation, while the central portion may hold a vanilla-flavoured preparation. After having frozen them for three hours, in a pail filled with freezing ice, and turned them out, these bricks are cut up vertically into rectangles, on the cut sides of which the differently coloured layers are distinctly marked. Place these rectangles in special paper cases; decorate them on top, if the directions admit of it, and place them in a refrigerator until about to serve.Nearly all Bombe preparations may become the base of biscuits, which are then named after them;e.g.: from Bombe Odessa, Odessa Iced Biscuits may be prepared.VariousIced Biscuits.
Ices, with their accompanying “petits fours,” bring the dinner to a close—at least as far as Cookery is concerned; and, when they are well prepared and daintily dished, they are the consummation of all that is delicate and good. In no other department of the work has the culinary artist so freely indulged his fancy, or created such delectable kickshaws; and, though Italy be the cradle of the ice-worker’s art, though the Neapolitans have deservedly maintained their reputation as authorities in this matter, to French workmen, certainly, is due the credit of those innovations which have perfected this important branch of dietetic science.
Whatever be the kind of ices required, they should always be prepared in advance; for none of these preparations can be made ready at a moment’s notice.
There are two distinct operations in the confection ofices:—
(1) The making of the preparation.
(2) The freezing and the moulding of the preparation. I shall begin by dealing with the second operation, which remains the same for all ices, and is the essential part of the procedure.
To freeze an ice preparation is to surround it with broken ice, mixed with sodium chloride (sea-salt or freezing salt) and saltpetre. The action of these two salts upon the ice causes a considerable drop in the temperature, which speedily congeals any contiguous liquid. Subject to their nature, ices are either moulded and frozen directly in their moulds, like the light ices: iced Biscuits, icedSoufflés, Puddings,Mousses, Parfaits, Bombes, etc.; or first frozen in a special utensil called a freezer, and then moulded and frozen afresh. Cream and syrup ices are prepared by the second method; and this I shall now describe.
The freezers, in which the freezing takes place, are generally wielded by hand, either directly or by means of some mechanism. They should be of pure tin, and fitted, at their base on to a central[789]pivot which turns in a socket, fixed in the wooden case which holds the freezer.
Having hermetically closed the latter, surround it with broken ice containing three lbs. of salt and eight oz. of saltpetre per twenty-five lbs.
The freezer should be one-third of its height out of the ice, in order that no particle of salted ice may accidentally fall into the preparation while it is being frozen. The ice should be snugly massed, by means of a special pestle, round the freezer. This operation constitutes the packing, and should be effected at least ten minutes in advance if possible.
Having thus prepared the freezer, pour into it the preparation to be frozen and then either keep it in motion by rocking the utensil to and fro, by grasping the handle on the cover (if the apparatus is worked by hand), or by turning the handle if the utensil is on a central axle, fitted with the usual mechanism. In either case, the rotary movement of the utensil causes the preparation to splash continually against the sides of the freezer, where it rapidly congeals, and the congealed portions are removed by means of a special spatula, as quickly as they form, until the whole becomes a smooth and homogeneous mass. The delicacy and creaminess of the ice depend a great deal upon the care with which this freezing operation is effected; hence the preference which is now given to freezers fitted with a mechanism whereby two fans revolve inside in a direction opposite to that of the body of the machine, and thus not only detach the congealed portions of the preparation under treatment from the sides of the receptacle, but also work it with a regularity impossible to human motion.
Having thus frozen the preparation, it may now be set in rock-form on a napkin, as it used sometimes to be served in the past, or in glasses. But as a rule it is put into special moulds, having closely-fitting covers. These moulds should be carefully filled, and banged on a folded napkin, that the ice may settle and drive out any air which might be the cause of holes being found in the preparation. When it is filled, place the mould in a receptacle of a suitable size, and surround it with broken ice, prepared as for the packing. The mould should remain at least an hour in the ice, in the case of an ordinary ice, and an extra two hours if the ice be light and not previously frozen as are the Bombes.
When about to serve, take the mould out of the ice; wash it to rid it of the taint of salt; dip it in tepid water for an instant, that the surface of the preparation inside may melt and separate easily[790]from the mould. Overturn the mould; and turn out the ice upon a folded napkin lying on a dish.
Preparations for simple ices are of two kinds: those made from cream, and those made from syrup; the latter being principally used for fruit ices.
As the quantities of sugar and eggs used for these preparations vary exceedingly, the following recipes have been based upon a working average.
If creamier ices be required, all that is needed is an increase in the sugar and egg-yolks per quart of milk; while, if the ices be required harder but less creamy, the two ingredients above mentioned should be proportionately reduced.
As an example of the difference that may exist between cream preparations, I might instance the case of ice-cream, which may be made from seven to sixteen egg-yolks, and six oz. to one lb. of sugar per quart of milk. In regard to ices made from syrups and fruit, their preparations may measure from 15° to 30° or 32°. (saccharometer) respectively.
Work two-thirds lb. of sugar and ten egg-yolks in a saucepan until the mixture reaches theribbon-stage. Dilute it, little by little, with one quart of boiling milk, and stir over a moderate fire until the preparation veneers the withdrawn spoon. Avoid boiling, as it might decompose the custard.
Strain the whole into a basin and stir it from time to time until it is quite cold.
N.B.—For the various ice-cream preparations, the amount of sugar and number of egg-yolks, as also the procedure, do not change. They are only distinguishable by the particular flavour or infusion which may happen to characterise them.
Finely pound three and a half oz. of freshly-skinned sweet almonds and five bitter almonds; adding to them, little by little, in order to facilitate the pounding, a few tablespoonfuls of water.
Set this almond paste to infuse, twenty minutes beforehand, in the boiling milk, and prepare the cream as directed above, with the same quantities of sugar and egg-yolks.
Parboil six oz. of asparagus-tops or sprew for two minutes. Thoroughly drain them; quickly pound them, together with a few tablespoonfuls of milk, and set this asparagus paste to infuse in the boiled milk.
Slightly torrify three and half oz. of filberts; finely pound them, together with a few tablespoonfuls of milk, and set the resulting paste to infuse for twenty minutes in the boiled milk.
Add two oz. of freshly-grilled and crushed coffee seeds to the boiled milk, and let them infuse for twenty minutes.
Or, with an equivalent amount of ground coffee and half a pint of water, prepare a very strong infusion and add it to one and a half pints of boiled milk.
Dissolve eight oz. of grated chocolate in half pint of water, and add thereto one quart of boiled milk, in which a large stick of vanilla has previously been infused. For this preparation, eight oz. of sugar and seven egg-yolks will be found sufficient, if the chocolate used be sweet.
Finely pound three and a half oz. of well-peeled walnuts with a few tablespoonfuls of water, and set them to infuse for twenty minutes in boiling milk.
Pound two oz. of sweet almonds, and two and a half oz. of freshly-peeled pistachios; moistening them with a few drops of milk. Set the paste to infuse for twenty minutes in the boiled milk.
Pound and rub through a sieve four oz. of almondpralin, and add thereto one quart of previously-prepared vanilla-flavoured custard.
Add one pint of very strong tea to one and a half pints of boiled milk, and make the preparation in the usual way.
When the milk has boiled, infuse in it one large stick of vanilla for twenty minutes.
N.B.—If these various preparations be required more creamy, the milk may be wholly or partly replaced by fresh cream. Also[792]when the preparation is congealed, it may be combined with one-sixth pint of whipped cream per quart.
The base of these preparations is a syrup of sugar at 32° (saccharom.), to which a purée of fruit, an essence, or a liqueur is added, which will give the ice its character. All these preparations require lemon juice, the quantity of which varies according to the acidity of the fruit used, but which, even in the case of the tartest fruits, should not measure less than the amount that may be extracted from a whole lemon per quart of the preparation.
Orange juice may also be used, more especially for red-fruit ices; while the juices of the orange and the lemons combined throw the flavour of the fruit under treatment into remarkable relief.
In the season the juices are extracted from fresh fruit, pressed and rubbed through tammy. When the season is over the preserved juice of fruit is used.
All red-fruit ices are improved, once they are set, by an addition of half pint of raw, fresh cream per quart of the preparation.
These preparations are made in two ways asfollows:—
(1) Rub the fruit through a fine sieve, after having pounded it if its nature admit of it. Dilute the purée with an equal quantity of cold sugar syrup at 32° (saccharom.), and add lemon juice in a quantity subject to the acidity of the treated fruit.
This mixture of ingredients should always be cold, and should be tested with saccharom (pèse-sirops). If the instrument marks more than the proper degree, dilute the preparation with a little water; if it mark less, add syrup until the required degree is reached.
(2) Pound the fruit with an average quantity of ten oz. of sugar per lb.; but remember that this proportion may be modified either way, subject to the sweetness of the fruit used.
Rub the whole through a sieve; and then, to obtain the proper degree of strength, add the necessary quantity of filtered water.
These preparations are made by adding to the syrup or the cream which forms the base of the ice a given quantity of the selected liqueur, the latter being generally added when the preparation is cold.
The proportion of one-fifth pint of liqueur per quart of syrup may be taken as an average. Subject to the requirements this liqueur[793]flavour may be intensified with strong tea for rum ices; with orange-rind for Curaçao-flavoured ices, with fresh, crushed cherry-stones for Kirsch ices, etc.
These preparations should always contain some lemon-juice, and their strength should reach the average degree indicated for fruit ices.
Take one pint of fresh apricot purée, one pint of syrup, and the juice of two lemons. The strength of the preparation should measure 18° or 19° (saccharometer).
Set to macerate for two hours one pint of grated or pounded skinned pine-apple in one pint of syrup. Rub the whole through a sieve, add the juice of one lemon and a few drops of Kirsch, and test the preparation, which should measure from 18° to 20°.
Set one pint of pounded banana pulp to macerate for two hours in one pint of Maraschino-flavoured syrup. Add the juice of three lemons, and rub through a sieve. This preparation should measure from 20° to 21°.
Crush one pint of stoned cherries, and pound their stones. Set the whole to macerate for one hour in one pint of syrup, flavoured with Kirsch. Rub through a sieve and add the juice of a half-lemon. The preparation should measure 21°.
Set thezestsof three lemon peels to infuse for three hours in one pint of cold syrup. Add the juice of four lemons and of two oranges, and strain the whole. The preparation should measure 22°.
Mix one pint of strawberry purée with one pint of syrup, and add thereto the juice of two oranges and of two lemons. Or pound two lbs. of strawberries with one lb. of powdered sugar; add the juice of oranges and lemons as above; rub the whole through a sieve, and add the necessary amount of filtered water to bring the preparation to 16°or 18°.
Proceed as for No.2766, and use the same quantities.
Mix one pint of red-currant juice with one pint of syrup. In view of the natural acidity of the fruit, lemon-juice may be dispensed with. The preparation should measure 20°.
Throw thezestsof the rinds of four tangerines into one and one-half pints of boiling syrup. Let the whole cool; rub it through a sieve, and finish it with the juice of six tangerines, two oranges and one lemon. The preparation should measure 21°.
Mix one pint of very ripe melon pulp with one pint of syrup, the juice of two oranges and one lemon, and one tablespoonful of orange-flower water. Rub the whole through a sieve. The mixture should measure 22°.
Throw thezestsof the rinds of four oranges into one quart of boiling syrup. Let the whole cool; add the juice of four oranges and one lemon, and rub it through a sieve. It should measure 21°.
Proceed as for No.2761, using wall peaches if possible.
Peel, core, and pound some fine William pears, with one lb. of powdered sugar per two-thirds lb. of the fruit; and add thereto the juice of two lemons per lb. of pears. Rub the whole through a sieve, and add enough filtered water to bring it to 22°.
Proceed as for No.2761, bringing the preparation to 20°.
Add to one and one-half pints of the juice of sweet, pressed grapes the juice of three lemons and the necessary quantity of powdered sugar to bring the preparation to 20°. Rub the whole through a sieve.
Put half a lb. of cleaned violet petals into one and one-half pints of boiling syrup. Let them infuse for ten minutes; strain the whole through a sieve; let it cool, and finish it with the juice of three lemons. The preparation should measure from 20° to 21°.
Take aMadeleine-mould;clotheits bottom and sides with vanilla ice-cream and fill it with Chantilly cream, combined with fresh strawberries, macerated for two hours in Kümmel, which should afterwards be added to the Chantilly cream.
Take a fluted mould. Garnish it with vertical and alternate layers of raspberry ice, coffee ice, and vanilla ice-cream.
Take a special square mould, even or ornamented on the top.Clotheit with strawberry ice; fill it with vanilla ice-cream; and, after turning it out, decorate it, by means of a piping-bag (fitted with a grooved pipe), with vanilla ice-cream.
Select one pound of fine very ripe strawberries, and put them in a silver timbale. Sprinkle them with ten ounces of powdered sugar and one liqueur-glass full of Grand-Marnier liqueur; cover the timbale and keep it on ice for half an hour.
Then rub the strawberries through a sieve; and, with their purée, make a preparation after the directions given under Fruit Ices. Freeze this preparation in the freezer, and, when it is set, combine with it one pint of Chantilly cream. Now cover the freezer; surround it afresh with ice if necessary, and keep it thus for thirty-five to forty minutes. This done, dish the ice preparation with care in pyramid form in crystal bowls.
N.B.—This ice gets its name from its colour, which should be that of the western sky during a fine sunset.
Take aMadeleine-mould;clotheit with vanilla ice-cream, and fill it with Chantilly cream, combined withpralinedorange flowers.
Take aMadeleine-mould;clotheit with vanilla ice-cream, and fill it with Kirsch-flavoured Chantilly cream combined with pine-apple dice and Bar red-currant jam.
Take a star-shaped mould, or aMadeleine-mouldwith a star on its bottom.Clotheit with raspberry ice, and fill it with BénédictineflavouredMousse.
[796]Turn it out upon a regular disc, consisting of a thick layer of white spun sugar, lying on a dish. This spun sugar throws the ice into relief, and emits rays which dart out from between the points of the star.
Take a square mould. Garnish it with strawberry and pine-apple ice, laid in very regular, superposed layers. After turning it out decorate with lemon ice.
Take a square mould;clotheit with coffee ice, and fill it with liqueur-brandy ice.
These ices are made in fluted moulds, and generally with two differently flavoured and coloured ices, set vertically in the mould.
Take a “bombe” mould.Clotheit withpralined, vanilla-ice cream. Fill it with alternate layers of chestnut ice flavoured with rum, and vanilla-flavoured Chantilly cream. When the ice is turned out, roll it inpralinedsplintered almonds.
These ices are made in large or small moulds.
The large ices are moulded in tin moulds, fitted with hinged covers, and ornamented with some design. The small ones, which are generally served at evening parties, or are used to garnish larger ices, are made in similar moulds, shaped like flowers, fruit, birds, leaf-sprays, etc.
Any ice preparation may be used for these ices; but, as a rule, the preparation should have something in keeping with the design of the mould used.
Small moulded ices may be kept packed until they are served. They may also be turned out in advance and kept in the refrigerator.
Take aMadeleine-mould;clotheit with vanilla ice-cream, and fill it with pine-apple ice.
Take aMadeleine-mould. Fill it with vanilla ice-cream, combined with half its bulk of Chantilly cream and candied fruit macerated in Kirsch.
Cut the tangerines on top, with a round, even cutter, in suchwise as to remove a roundel of their peel with the stalk attached, and two leaves adhering thereto.
With the juice of the tangerines prepare some tangerine ice, after the directions given under Fruit-ice Preparations. Fill the tangerines with this ice; cover them with the roundels removed at the start; and, with a brush, sprinkle the rinds of the fruit with water, and place them in a refrigerator.
As soon as the tangerines are coated with frost, serve them on a napkin.
Empty the tangerines as above, and garnish them inside with tangerinemousse, with which Chartreuse bon-bons have been mixed. Cover them, and frost them as directed above.
Take aMadeleine-mould;clotheit with chocolate ice, and fill it with vanilla-flavoured Chantilly cream.
After turning out, decorate it with pine-apple ice.
Garnish somemeringueshells with some kind of spoon-moulded ice, and set them on a napkin.
Or, garnish the shells more sparingly and join them together in twos.
Take a parfait mould. Garnish it with vanilla-ice cream combined with candied fruit, macerated in Kirsch; spreading the preparation in alternate layers with apricot jam.
We are now concerned with bowls garnished, either with differently-flavoured ices, or with ices combined with Chantilly cream or candied fruit. The bowls used for this purpose should be of crystal.
Three-parts fill the bowls with Alpine-strawberry ice, or, failing this, four-seasons strawberry ice, combined with very light and strongly-flavoured raw cream. The two most perfect examples of this cream are the “Fleurette Normande,” and that which in the South of France is called “CrèmeNiçoise,” and which comes from Alpine pastures.
[798]Upon the ice of each bowl set a half-peach, poached in vanilla-flavoured syrup; and veil the whole thinly with spun sugar.
Garnish the bottom of the bowls with vanilla-ice cream, combined with fragments of candied chestnuts, macerated in Maraschino. Set a candied chestnut in the middle of the ice, and surround it by means of a piping-bag with a border of Chantilly cream, containing strawberry purée.
Three-parts garnish the bowls with almond-milk ice. Upon the ice in each bowl set an overturned half-peach, poached in vanilla-flavoured syrup, the hollow of which should be filled with Bar red-currant jam. Surround the peaches with a thread of lemon ice, laid by means of a piping-bag.
Garnish the bowls with Moka ice, and sprinkle the latter with sweets containing liqueur (preferably rum). Cover with Chantilly cream laid on by means of the spoon.
Garnish the bottom of the bowls with vanilla ice-cream, and upon the latter set some very cold stewed cherries. Cover the latter with a cone of Chantilly cream, tinted pink by means of a fresh raspberry purée.
These coupes do not contain ice. They are garnished with very cold stewed choice bigaroon cherries, poached in a Kirsch- and cherry-brandy-flavoured syrup. The fruit is covered with Chantilly cream which is laid on by means of a spoon, and sprinkled with powdered spices in which cinnamon should predominate.
Garnish the bottom of the bowls withpralinedvanilla ice-cream. Upon the latter set some Kirsch-flavoured stewed cherries, and cover the latter with raspberry purée.
Garnish the bowls with vanilla ice-cream, combined with broken candied chestnuts. Cover the ice with Chantilly cream and upon the latter sprinkle some crystallised violets.
Garnish the bowls vertically, half with Kirsch-Maraschino-flavoured ice, and half with vanilla ice-cream. Border them with a thread of pine-apple ice, and in the middle set some Chantilly cream combined with strawberry purée.
Garnish the bottom of the bowls with vanilla ice, and distribute over it half-sugared cherries, macerated in Kirsch. Cover the cherries with a dry purée of chestnuts, squeezed out to resemble vermicelli, and border the bowls with Chantilly cream.
Garnish the bottom of the bowls with vanilla ice-cream, and upon the latter in each bowl set three small macaroons, saturated with Kirsch. Upon the macaroons set an overturned poached half-peach, the hollow of which should be garnished with Bar red-currant jam. Surround the peaches with a border of Chantilly cream.
Garnish the bowls vertically, half with lemon and half with strawberry ice. Between the two ices, on top of the bowl, set a tablespoonful of amacédoineof fresh fruit, macerated in Kirsch.
Garnish the bowls with vanilla ice-cream, combined with peeled Muscadel grapes. Veil with spun sugar.
Garnish the bowls with tangerine ice, combined with pine-apple cut into very small dice.
Garnish the bowls, half with vanilla ice-cream, and half with red-currant ice with cream. In the middle of each bowl set a nectarine poached in vanilla-flavoured syrup, the stone of which should be replaced by Bar white-currant jam.
Decorate with Chantilly cream, and cover with a veil of spun sugar.
Garnish the bowls with vanilla ice-cream. Set in each a poached half-peach garnished with Bar red-currant jam. Surround the peaches with a thread of lemon ice.
Garnish the bowls, half with pine-apple ice and half with raspberry ice.
[800]Between the two ices set a line of small strawberries, macerated in orange juice. Border the bowls with Chantilly cream, and sprinkle the latter with crystallised violets.
Garnish the bottom and sides of the bowls with a layer of vanilla ice-cream. Fill them with Bar red-currant jam, and cover the latter, by means of a spoon, with Chantilly cream.
Sprinkle the bottom of the bowls with various fresh fruits cut into dice; garnish the bowls with strawberry, pine-apple and lemon ices, spread alternately with layers of the same fruits.
Half-fill the bowls with vanilla ice-cream.
In the middle of each bowl set a small peach, poached in vanilla-flavoured syrup, with a very red, small cherry upon it.
Border the peaches with a thread of Chantilly cream.
These ices differ from those dealt with above, in that they are moulded and frozen directly, without a sojourn in the freezer.
To this class belong the ices most commonly served and the best; and, since their preparation requires no special utensils, they may be served everywhere: such are the “Iced Biscuits,” the “Bombes,” the “Mousses,” the “Parfaits,” the “Puddings,” and the “Iced Soufflés.”
These different kinds of ices greatly resemble one another, and their names, which are puzzling at times, are only a matter of fancy.
The old iced-biscuit preparation consisted of an English custard, prepared from one lb. of sugar, twelve egg-yolks, and one pint of milk.
When the custard was cooked, it used to be strained into a basin, left to cool (being fanned the while), and then placed upon ice, and finished with the whisk. Originally this cream was moulded at this stage; but now it is customary to add one quart of whipped cream to it; which operation renders the recipe more like that of a Bombe, which, in its turn, resembles that of the preparation forMousses.
Whisk in a copper basin, in abain-marie, twelve egg-yolks and one lb. of powdered sugar, until the paste gets very firm and reaches theribbon-stage.
Take the basin off the fire, and whisk until the whole is quite cold. Then, add eight oz. ofItalianmeringueand one pint of whisked cream.
These biscuits are moulded in rectangular brick-shaped cases, fitted with lids, top and bottom.
Generally, the preparation moulded in the covers is of a different flavour and colour from the one filling the middle of the mould.
For example, one of the covers may be garnished with strawberry, and the other with violet preparation, while the central portion may hold a vanilla-flavoured preparation. After having frozen them for three hours, in a pail filled with freezing ice, and turned them out, these bricks are cut up vertically into rectangles, on the cut sides of which the differently coloured layers are distinctly marked. Place these rectangles in special paper cases; decorate them on top, if the directions admit of it, and place them in a refrigerator until about to serve.
Nearly all Bombe preparations may become the base of biscuits, which are then named after them;e.g.: from Bombe Odessa, Odessa Iced Biscuits may be prepared.