1344—CASSOULET(1) Set one quart of haricot beans to cook with two quarts of water, one-third oz. of salt, one carrot, one onion stuck with a clove, one faggot, six garlic cloves, and two-thirds lb. of fresh pork rind,blanchedand strung together. Boil; skim; cover, and cook gently for one hour. At the end of this time, add two-thirds lb. of breast of pork, and a sausage with garlic, of the same weight as the pork. Salt the beans very moderately, allowing for the reduction which they have ultimately to undergo.Complete the cooking of the whole gently.(2) Fry gently in lard one lb. of shoulder, and the same weight of breast, of mutton; both cut into pieces one and one-half oz. in weight.This done, drain away half the grease; add two chopped[445]onions and two crushed cloves of garlic, and fry again until the onions have acquired a slight colour. Now pour in one-sixth pint of good tomato purée; moisten the meat, enough to cover, with the cooking-liquor of haricot beans, and cook gently in the oven for one and one-half hours at least.(3) Garnish the bottom and sides of somecocottesor deep dishes with bacon rind; fill these with alternate layers of the pieces of mutton, the beans, the bacon cut into dice, and the sausage cut into roundels.Sprinkle the surface with raspings, and set thegratinto form in a moderate oven for one hour; taking care to baste from time to time with some reserved haricot-beans cooking-liquor.1345—CURRIEA L’INDIENNECut two lbs. of lean mutton into cubes of one and one-third in. side, and fry these in three oz. of lard, with one chopped onion, salt, and a pinch of powdered curry. When the meat is frizzled and the onions begin to colour, sprinkle with one and one-third oz. of flour; cook the latter a while; moisten with one and one-third pints of water or stock; boil, stirring the while, so as to dissolve the roux, and then cook gently in the oven for one and one-half hours. When about to serve, clear of all grease and dish in a timbale.Send a timbale of rice à l’Indienneseparately.1346—DAUBEA L’AVIGNONNAISEBone a medium-sized leg of mutton, and cut the meat into squares, three oz. in weight. Lard each square with a large, seasoned strip of bacon, inserted with the grain of the meat. Put the pieces into adaubièrewith a sliced half-carrot and onion, three cloves of garlic, a little thyme, bay, and parsley stalks. Moisten with one and one-third pints of good, red wine and four tablespoonfuls of oil, andmarinadein the cool for two hours.Prepare:—(1) Three chopped onions mixed with two crushed garlic cloves; (2) one-half lb. of lean bacon, cut into dice andblanched; (3) one-half lb. of fresh, bacon rind,blanchedand cut into squares of one in. side; (4) a large bunch of parsley, containing a small piece of dry, orange peel. Garnish the bottom and sides of adaubièrewith thin slices of bacon; set the pieces of mutton in layers inside, and alternate them with layers of onion, bacon and bacon rind; sprinkle a pinch of powdered thyme and bay on each layer of meat. Put the faggot in the middle.[446]Moisten with themarinade, strained through a sieve, and one-fifth pint of brown stock; cover with slices of bacon; close thedaubière, and seal down the lid by means of a thread of soft paste, in order that the steam may be concentrated inside.Boil on the side of the stove; put thedaubièrein an oven of regular heat (a baker’s oven if possible) that the cooking process may be gentle and steady, and cook for five hours.When about to serve, uncover thedaubière; remove the overlying slices of bacon; clear of grease; remove the faggot, and dish thedaubièreon a napkin.N.B.—According to the household method, the “Daube” is served in thedaubièreitself; but, subject to the demands of the service and in order that the preparation may keep its bucolic character, it may be served in small earthenware utensils.1347—DAUBE FROIDECold Daube constitutes an excellent luncheon dish. All that is needed is to put what is left into a smalldaubière, where, as a result of the binding properties of the pork rinds, it will set in a mass.When about to serve, turn out on a round dish; surround with very light, chopped jelly; and carve into very thin slices.1348—ÉMINCÉSET HACHISAn unalterable principle governs the preparation of émincésand hashes, which is that the meats constituting these dishes should never boil if it be desired that they be not hard.They should, therefore, only be heated in their accompanying garnish or sauce, and in the case of émincés, cut as finely as possible.For the various recipes under this head, see the Chapter on Beef. (Nos.1175,1178and1179.)1349—HARICOT DE MOUTONHeat three oz. of lard in a sautépan. Put therein one-half lb. of lean bacon, cut into dice andblanched, and twenty small onions. When the bacon is frizzled and the onions have acquired a good colour, drain both on a dish. In the same fat, fry three lbs. of breast, neck and shoulder of mutton, all three being cut into pieces weighing about three oz. Keep the meat in the fat until each piece of it has acquired a frizzled coat.Drain away half of the grease; add three crushed cloves of garlic; dust with two tablespoonfuls of flour, and cook the latter, stirring the while.Moisten with one quart of water; season with one-third oz.[447]of salt and a pinch of pepper; boil and stir; add a faggot, and cook in the oven for thirty minutes.This done, transfer the pieces to another saucepan; add the bacon and the onions and a quart of half-cooked haricot beans; strain the sauce over the whole, and complete the cooking in the oven for one hour.Dish in a timbale or in smallcocottes.1350—IRISH STEWCut two lbs. of boned breast and shoulder of mutton into pieces, as above.Slice two lbs. of potatoes and chop four medium-sized onions.Take a saucepan just large enough to hold these ingredients and the moistening; line the bottom of the utensil with a layer of the pieces of meat, and season the latter with salt and pepper. Upon the meat spread a litter of sliced potatoes and chopped onions; repeat the operation, again and again, until all the ingredients are used up, and remember to place a faggot in the middle.Moisten with one and one-third pint of water, and cook gently in the oven for one and one-half hours. The potatoes in this preparation answer the double purpose of garnish and leason.Dish in a timbale and serve boiling.1351—MOUSSAKA(1) Cut six fine egg-plants into halves, lengthwise;ciselthe pulp somewhat deeply with the point of a small knife, and fry them until their pulp may be easily removed. Do this with a spoon, and put the pulp aside with the skins of the egg-plants.(2) Peel two fair-sized egg-plants; cut them into roundels one-third in. thick; season them, dredge them; fry them in oil, and put them aside.(3) Chop up the pulp withdrawn from the egg-plants, and put it into a basin with one and one-half lbs. of very lean, cooked mutton, chopped or cut into very small dice; two tablespoonfuls of very finely-chopped onion, fried in butter; a pinch of parsley; a piece of crushed garlic as large as a pea; three oz. of roughly-chopped raw mushrooms, fried in butter; two eggs; two tablespoonfuls of cold Espagnole sauce; one tablespoonful of tomato purée; a pinch of salt, and another of pepper. Mix the whole well.(4) Butter a low-bordered quart Charlotte mould; line it all over with the egg-plant skins, and lay these black side[448]uppermost. Garnish the bottom of the mould with a layer of mincemeat, one in. thick; on this layer place a few fried roundels of egg-plant, and continue thus with alternate layers of mince and egg-plant. Cover the last layer of mince-meat with the remains of the egg-plant skins, and cook in abain-mariefor one hour.When taking the mould out of the oven, let it stand for five minutes in order that the ingredients may settle; turn out on a round dish, and besprinkle the surface of the Moussaka with chopped parsley.1352—MUTTON PUDDINGFollow the directions given under beefsteak pudding (No.1170) exactly. The preparation is just the same, but for the substitution of mutton for the beef.1353—NAVARIN PRINTANIERHeat four oz. of clarified fat in a sautépan, and put into it four lbs. of breast, neck and shoulder of mutton; all three cut into pieces weighing two and one-half oz. Fry over a very brisk fire; season with one-third oz. of salt, a pinch of ground pepper, and another of sugar.The sugar settles slowly on the bottom of the sautépan, where it turns to caramel; it is then dissolved by the moistening, and thus gives the sauce the required colour.When the meat is well fried, remove almost all the fat; sprinkle with one and one-half oz. of flour; cook the latter for a few minutes, and moisten with one and one-half quarts of water or stock.Boil, stirring the while, and add two-thirds lb. of freshconcassedtomatoes or one-fifth pint of tomato purée; one crushed clove of garlic, and a large faggot. Cover and cook in the oven for one hour.This done, transfer the pieces of mutton, one by one, to another saucepan with twenty small, new onions; twenty pieces of new trimmed carrots; twenty pieces of new turnips, cut to the shape of long olives and tossed with butter in a frying-pan; twenty small, new potatoes, cut into two, and trimmed, or whole; one-sixth pint of fresh peas, and an equal quantity of raw French beans, cut into lozenges. Strain the sauce over the whole; set to boil, and continue cooking slowly in the oven for one hour; taking care from time to time to baste the overlying vegetables with sauce.Dish in a timbale and serve very hot.N.B.—When put into the sauce, the vegetables cook much less quickly than in boiling water. In the Navarin, moreover,[449]they are cooked by means of gradual penetration; thus, by slackening the cooking speed of the Navarin, they are cooked to the required extent.1354—PILAW DE MOUTONA LA TURQUEMutton Pilaff is, in fact, nothing but a Navarin in which the tomatoes dominate the other ingredients; it is flavoured with ginger or saffron, according to circumstances, and the usual vegetables are replaced by rice. Prepared in this way, it does not lend itself very well to the exigencies of a restaurant service.More often, therefore, it is treated like curried mutton; but, instead of serving it with rice à l’Indienne, it is dished in the midst of a pilaff-rice border. Sometimes, too, the rice is served separately, after the manner of a curry dish.HOUSE LAMB.1355—BARON (OR PAIR OF HIND-QUARTERS) OF LAMB1356—DOUBLE (OR PAIR OF LEGS) OF LAMB1357—QUARTER OF LAMB1358—FILLET OF LAMB1359—SADDLE AND NECK OF LAMBLarge joints of lamb for Relevés are cut like those of mutton.One joint, however, should be added, which is “The Haunch”; and this consists of one leg and half the loin attached.Large joints of house lamb should bepoëledor roasted. Their most suitable adjunct is either their own stock, or a thickened, highly seasoned and clear gravy.House Lamb Relevés are chiefly garnished with early-season or new vegetables; but all the garnishes given under Mutton Relevés may also be served with them, provided the difference in size be taken into account. In addition to these garnishes, saddle of lamb admits of all the preparations given under saddle of veal (Nos.1181to1191).1360—SELLE D’AGNEAU DE LAIT ÉDOUARDVII.Completely bone the saddle from underneath, in suchwise as to leave the skin intact; season it inside, and place in the middle a fine foie gras, studded with truffles andmarinadedin Marsala.Reconstruct the saddle, and wrap it tightly in a piece of muslin; put it in a saucepan just large enough to hold it, on a litter of pieces of bacon rind, cleared of all fat andblanched.[450]Moisten, enough to cover, with the braising-liquor of a cushion of veal; add thereto the Marsala used inmarinadingthe foie gras, and poach for about forty-five minutes.Before withdrawing the saddle, make sure that the foie gras is sufficiently cooked. Remove the muslin, and put the saddle in an ovalterrine à pâtéjust large enough to hold it. Strain the cooking-liquor over it, without clearing the former of grease, and set it to cool.When the saddle is quite cold, carefully clear away the grease that lies upon it, first by means of a spoon and then by means of boiling water. Serve it very cold, in the terrine as it stands.1361—CARRÉD’AGNEAU BEAUCAIREHaving trimmed the neck of lamb, as explained, brown it in butter; surround it with eight small, Provence half-artichokes, and cook gently in the oven. The artichokes in question have no chokes and are very tender.Meanwhile, peel, press,concassand season four or five tomatoes, and fry them in butter. When they are ready, add a large pinch of chopped tarragon to them.Dish the tomatoes; set the neck upon them, and surround it with the stewed half-artichokes.1362—CARRÉD’AGNEAU EN COCOTTEA LA BONNE FEMMEFry a shortened and well-trimmed neck of lamb, in butter.This done, transfer it to an ovalcocottewith ten small onions browned in butter, and two medium-sized potatoes, cut into large dice, shaped like garlic cloves, andblanched. Sprinkle the whole with melted butter and cook gently in the oven.Serve the preparation as it stands, in thecocotte, placing the latter on a folded napkin.1363—CARRÉ D’AGNEAUA LA BOULANGÈREFry the neck of lamb with butter, in an earthenware dish, and surround it with sliced onions, tossed in butter, and sliced potatoes; both of which vegetables should be in quantities in proportion to the size of the piece of meat. The “à la Boulangère” procedure is always the same, and was explained under No.1307, but allowances should always be made for the particular size and tenderness of the piece.1364—CARRÉD’AGNEAUGRILLÉHaving shortened and well trimmed the neck, season it; sprinkle it with melted butter, and grill it gently.[451]When it is almost cooked, sprinkle it again with melted butter and bread-crumbs, and let it acquire a golden colour while completely cooking it.Serve very hot with mint sauce and a suitable garnish.1365—CARRÉ D’AGNEAU MIREILLEPrepare some Anna potatoes (No.2203) in an oval earthenware dish, and add a third of the quantity of potatoes of raw, minced artichoke-bottoms.When the potatoes are three-parts cooked, stiffen the neck in butter; place it on the potatoes, and complete the cooking of the two, basting often the while with melted butter.Send the preparation to the table on the dish that has served in the cooking process.1366—CARRÉ D’AGNEAU PRINTANIERPrepare the following garnish: eight small onions, half-cooked in butter; ten carrots of the size and shape of garlic cloves, cooked in consommé and glazed; and ten turnips of the same shape and size, similarly treated.Put these vegetables into acocottewith three tablespoonfuls of fresh peas; the same quantity of raw, French beans, cut into lozenge form; two or three tablespoonfuls of good and very clear stock, and complete the cooking of the whole.Meanwhile,poëlethe neck of lamb, which should have been shortened and trimmed in the usual way. Dish the neck of lamb and serve the vegetables in thecocotte.1367—CARRÉ D’AGNEAU SOUBISEHaving shortened and trimmed the neck of lamb, stiffen it in butter; surround it with one-half lb. of finely-minced and well-blanchedonions, and complete the cooking of both by stewing.This done, transfer the neck to a dish and keep it hot. Add one-quarter pint of boiling Béchamel sauce to the onions, and rub them quickly through tammy or a fine sieve. Heat this Soubise; finish it with one and one-half oz. of butter, and pour it over the neck.Border the dish with a thread of rather light meat glaze, and serve.1368—CARRÉ D’AGNEAUA LA TOSCANEShorten the neck of lamb; suppress the cartilaginous portions and stiffen it in butter. Garnish the bottom of an oval earthenware dish, of the same size as the neck, with a layer of Anna potatoes (No.2203). Set the neck on this layer, and cover it[452]over with a second layer of the same potato preparation. Sprinkle with grated Parmesan; cook in the oven as for Anna potatoes, and take care that the bottom be so well set as to prevent any of the juices of the joint from exuding and depositing on it.Serve the dish as it stands.1369—LEG AND SHOULDER OF LAMBAll the recipes given under Haunch and Double (pair of legs), may be applied to the legs and shoulders of house lamb.The shoulders are often grilled, the operation being effected over a moderate fire after the joints have been incised lattice-fashion, and the same applies to the breast. The “à la Boulangère” treatment (No.1307) admirably suits the legs and shoulders of house lamb.1370—CUTLETSAccording to custom, lamb cutlets are usually served like “Noisettes,”i.e., two are allowed for each person.As a rule, when they are to be grilled, they are previously dipped in melted butter and sprinkled with fine bread-crumbs.When they are to besautédthey are treatedà l’anglaise(egg and bread-crumbs) except when, subject to their mode of preparation, they have to be served plain or stuffed.1371—CÔTELETTES D’AGNEAU DE LAITA LA BULOZPrepare:—(1) a rizotto (No.2238) with truffles, in proportion to the number of cutlets; (2) some very reduced Béchamel sauce, combined with one-half oz. of grated Parmesan per one-fifth pint of the sauce, and allowing one small tablespoonful of it for each cutlet.Half-grill the cutlets; dry them, and cover them, on both sides, with the reduced sauce. As soon as the cutlets have received their coat of sauce, dip them, one by one, into beaten egg (anglaise); roll them in very fine bread-crumbs mixed with grated Parmesan. Thoroughly press this coating of bread-crumbs with the flat of a knife, that it may adhere well to the egg and produce a crust at the close of the operation. This done, set the cutlets in a sautépan of very hot, clarified butter, and brown them on both sides.Dish the rizotto in a very even layer; set the cutlets in a circle on the rice, and fix a frill to the bone of each.1372—CÔTELETTES D’AGNEAU DE LAITMARÉCHALETreat the cutletsà l’anglaise, and cook them in clarified butter.Dish them in a circle, with a fine slice of truffle upon each;[453]and, in their midst, set a nice heap of asparagus-heads cohered with butter.1373—CÔTELETTES D’AGNEAU DE LAITMILANAISETreat the cutletsà l’anglaise, but add to the bread-crumbs the quarter of their weight of grated Parmesan.Cook the cutlets in clarified butter. Dish them in a circle, and, in their midst, arrange a garnish “à la milanaise” (see Côte de Veauà la Milanaise,No.1258.)1374—CÔTELETTES D’AGNEAU DE LAITMORLANDSlightly flatten the cutlets, dip them in beaten egg, and roll them in finely-chopped truffle, which in this case answers the purpose of bread-crumbs. Press the truffle with the flat of a knife, that it may thoroughly combine with the egg, and cook the cutlets in clarified butter. Dish them in a circle; garnish the centre of the dish with a mushroom purée (No.2059), and surround the cutlets with a thread of buttered meat glaze.1375—CÔTELETTES D’AGNEAU DE LAITNAVARRAISEFor twelve cutlets, make a preparation consisting of four oz. of ham, four oz. of cooked mushrooms, and one-half oz. of chopped, red capsicums; the whole being cohered by means of a very reduced Béchamel sauce, flavoured with truffle essence.Grill the cutlets on one side only, and garnish them on their grilled side with a tablespoonful of the above preparation, which should be shaped like a dome upon them.Set the cutlets upon a tray as soon as they are garnished; sprinkle the surface of the preparation, covering them with grated cheese and melted butter, and place them in the oven, that their cooking may be completed and thegratinformed. Meanwhile, toss twelve seasoned half-tomatoes in oil. Dish these tomatoes in a circle; set a cutlet upon each, and border with a thread of tomato sauce.1376—CÔTELETTES D’AGNEAU DE LAITNELSONGrill the cutlets, and, at the same time, prepare as many bread-crumbcroûtonsas there are cutlets, and of exactly the same shape as the latter. Fry thecroûtonsin butter, and coat them with foie-gras purée.Place a grilled cutlet on each coatedcroûton, and a slice of truffle on the kernel of each cutlet. Now, by means of a[454]piping-bag, fitted with an even pipe, cover the cutlets with some soufflé au Parmesan (No.2295a); dish them in a circle, and put them in the oven for five minutes, that thesoufflémay poach.After withdrawing them from the oven, garnish the centre of the dish with a heap of asparagus-heads, cohered with butter.1377—CÔTELETTES D’AGNEAU DE LAIT FARCIESA LA PÉRIGUEUXCook the cutlets in butter on one side only, and cool them under slight pressure.Garnish the cooked side of each with a tablespoonful of forcemeat with butter (No.193), which should have received a copious addition of chopped truffles. Shape this forcemeat dome-fashion, by means of the flat of a small knife, dipped in tepid water, and set the cutlets, one by one, on a tray. Now put them in the front of the oven for seven or eight minutes that the forcemeat may be poached.Dish them in a circle, and pour a Périgueux sauce in their midst.1378—EPIGRAMMES D’AGNEAUA lamb “epigram” consists of a cutlet, and a piece of braised breast, cooled under slight pressure and cut to the shape of a heart of the same size as the cutlets. The cutlets and the pieces of breast must be treatedà l’anglaise, andsautédor grilled according to circumstance.Epigrams should be dished in a circle, the cutlets and the pieces being alternated.They are usually garnished with braised chicory, ormacédoinesof early-season vegetables.1379—RIS D’AGNEAULamb sweetbreads are, according to circumstances, either used as the principal constituent of various preparations, or they answer the purpose of a garnish.Due allowance having been made for their particular size, they may be treated after the same manner as veal sweetbreads; that is to say, once they have been cleared of blood, they areblanchedand braised according to the nature of the selected mode of preparation.If they are to form part of a large garnish, cohered by means of a brown sauce, they are braised brown and glazed. If they stand as an adjunct to poached fowl, they may be either studded or left plain, and braised white.Apart from their two uses as principal and garnishing[455]constituents, the undermentioned methods of preparation, explained in the various preceding series, may be applied to them;viz.:—Attereaux,Brochettes,Croustades,Pâtéchaud,Vol au vent, &c.1380—SAUTÉD’AGNEAU PRINTANIERPrepare the followinggarnish:—Twenty new carrots, cut to the shape of large olives, cooked in consommé and glazed; twenty pieces of turnip, similarly treated; fifteen small, new onions, cooked in butter; twenty very small new potatoes, cooked in butter (orà l’anglaiseif desired); three tablespoonfuls of peas; the same quantity of French beans cut into lozenge-form, and an equal quantity of small flageolet beans. The three last vegetables should be cookedà l’anglaise, and kept rather firm.Cut two lbs. of shoulder and breast of lamb into pieces weighing two oz., and completely cook them in butter without any moistening.This done, transfer them to a dish. Swill the saucepan with three tablespoonfuls of water; add five tablespoonfuls of pale meat glaze; heat without boiling, and finish with two and one-half oz. of butter.Put the pieces of lamb and the vegetables into this sauce, and gently rock the saucepan, that all the ingredients may partake of the sauce.Serve in a hot timbale.1381—PILAW D’AGNEAUProceed exactly as explained under “Pilaw de Mouton” (No.1354), only bear in mind that the time allowed for cooking should be proportionately shortened in view of the greater tenderness of lamb’s meat.1382—CURRIE D’AGNEAUProceed as for “Currie de Mouton,” after duly allowing, as above, for the greater tenderness of the meat.[456]PORKRelevés and Entrées.1383—FRESH LEG OF PORK1384—FRESH PORK FILLETS1385—FRESH NECK OF PORKRelevés of fresh pork are only served at family and bourgeois meals. They are always roasts and allow of all the dry or fresh vegetable garnishes, as well as the various vegetable purées, and the pastes, such as macaroni, noodles, polenta, gnochi, &c. I shall, therefore, give only a few recipes, and shall select Fresh Neck of Pork as the typical joint.1386—FRESH NECK OF PORKA LA CHOUCROÛTERoast the neck of pork and withdraw it from the oven a few minutes before it is done.Keep it in the stove for an hour, that its cooking may be completed gently; but remember, that if a stove is not available, the cooking of the piece should be well finished in the oven; for pork is indigestible when it is not thoroughly well cooked.Meanwhile, prepare a garnish of sauerkraut (No.2097), and, during the last hour of its cooking, sprinkle it frequently with the fat of the neck.Dish the neck; clear the sauerkraut of any superfluous fat, and set it round the piece of meat in spoonfuls; slightly pressing it in so doing.1387—FRESH NECK OF PORK WITH BRUSSELS SPROUTSRoast the neck of pork. Three-parts cook the Brussels sprouts; completely drain them, and put them round the piece of meat, that they may complete their cooking in its gravy and fat, being frequently basted the while.For this preparation it is well to roast the neck in an earthenware dish, in which it may be served with its garnish—a much better plan than that of transferring it to another dish.1388—FRESH NECK OF PORK WITH RED CABBAGEA LA FLAMANDERoast the neck of pork; dish it and surround it with a garnish of red cabbages, prepared à la Flamande (No.2098).[457]Sprinkle the garnish of vegetables with the gravy of the joint, three-parts cleared of grease.1389—FRESH NECK OF PORK WITH STEWED APPLESRoast the neck of pork and see that it is well done.Meanwhile, peel and mince one lb. of apples; put them in a saucepan with one oz. of sugar and a few tablespoonfuls of water; seal the lid of the saucepan well down, so as to concentrate the steam inside, and cook quickly. When about to serve, thoroughly work the apple purée with a wire whisk, in order to smooth it. Dish the neck with its gravy, three-parts cleared of grease, and serve the apple purée separately in a timbale.1390—FRESH NECK OF PORKA LA SOISSONNAISERoast the neck on a dish that may be sent to the table.When it is three-parts done, set one quart of cooked and well-drained haricot beans round it, and complete the cooking gently. Serve the dish as it stands.1391—BOILED SALTED PORKA L’ANGLAISECook plainly in water three lbs. of shoulder, breast, or gammon of bacon, and add thereto a garnish of vegetables as for boiled beef, and six parsnips.Serve the vegetables round the piece of meat, and send a pease-pudding (prepared as directed below) separately.Pease-pudding: put one lb. of a purée of yellow or green, split peas into a basin, and mix therewith three oz. of melted or softened butter, three eggs, a pinch of salt, another of pepper, and a little nutmeg. Pour this purée into a pudding basin, and poach it in steam or in abain-marie.This preparation may also be put into a buttered and flour-dusted napkin; in which case, close the napkin up purse-fashion, tying it up securely with string, and cook the pudding in the same stewpan with the pork. This procedure is simpler than the first and quite as good.Very often a purée prepared from split, yellow or green peas, is used instead of the pudding given above.1392—PORK PIECompletely line the bottom and sides of a pie-dish with thin slices of raw ham, and prepare, for a medium-sizeddish:—(1) one and one-half lbs. of fresh pork in collops, seasoned with salt and pepper, and sprinkle with two tablespoonfuls of dry Duxelles (No.223), a pinch of parsley and another of chopped[458]sage; (2) one and one-half lbs. of raw, sliced potatoes, and one large, chopped onion.Garnish the bottom of the dish with a litter of collops; cover with potatoes and onions; spread another litter of collops, and begin again in the same order. Add one-quarter pint of water; cover with a layer of fine paste or puff-paste trimmings, which should be well sealed down round the edges;gildwith beaten egg; streak the paste with the prongs of a fork; make a slit in the centre of the covering of paste for the escape of steam, and bake in a moderate oven for about two hours.Fresh-pork Cutlets.
(1) Set one quart of haricot beans to cook with two quarts of water, one-third oz. of salt, one carrot, one onion stuck with a clove, one faggot, six garlic cloves, and two-thirds lb. of fresh pork rind,blanchedand strung together. Boil; skim; cover, and cook gently for one hour. At the end of this time, add two-thirds lb. of breast of pork, and a sausage with garlic, of the same weight as the pork. Salt the beans very moderately, allowing for the reduction which they have ultimately to undergo.
Complete the cooking of the whole gently.
(2) Fry gently in lard one lb. of shoulder, and the same weight of breast, of mutton; both cut into pieces one and one-half oz. in weight.
This done, drain away half the grease; add two chopped[445]onions and two crushed cloves of garlic, and fry again until the onions have acquired a slight colour. Now pour in one-sixth pint of good tomato purée; moisten the meat, enough to cover, with the cooking-liquor of haricot beans, and cook gently in the oven for one and one-half hours at least.
(3) Garnish the bottom and sides of somecocottesor deep dishes with bacon rind; fill these with alternate layers of the pieces of mutton, the beans, the bacon cut into dice, and the sausage cut into roundels.
Sprinkle the surface with raspings, and set thegratinto form in a moderate oven for one hour; taking care to baste from time to time with some reserved haricot-beans cooking-liquor.
Cut two lbs. of lean mutton into cubes of one and one-third in. side, and fry these in three oz. of lard, with one chopped onion, salt, and a pinch of powdered curry. When the meat is frizzled and the onions begin to colour, sprinkle with one and one-third oz. of flour; cook the latter a while; moisten with one and one-third pints of water or stock; boil, stirring the while, so as to dissolve the roux, and then cook gently in the oven for one and one-half hours. When about to serve, clear of all grease and dish in a timbale.
Send a timbale of rice à l’Indienneseparately.
Bone a medium-sized leg of mutton, and cut the meat into squares, three oz. in weight. Lard each square with a large, seasoned strip of bacon, inserted with the grain of the meat. Put the pieces into adaubièrewith a sliced half-carrot and onion, three cloves of garlic, a little thyme, bay, and parsley stalks. Moisten with one and one-third pints of good, red wine and four tablespoonfuls of oil, andmarinadein the cool for two hours.
Prepare:—(1) Three chopped onions mixed with two crushed garlic cloves; (2) one-half lb. of lean bacon, cut into dice andblanched; (3) one-half lb. of fresh, bacon rind,blanchedand cut into squares of one in. side; (4) a large bunch of parsley, containing a small piece of dry, orange peel. Garnish the bottom and sides of adaubièrewith thin slices of bacon; set the pieces of mutton in layers inside, and alternate them with layers of onion, bacon and bacon rind; sprinkle a pinch of powdered thyme and bay on each layer of meat. Put the faggot in the middle.
[446]Moisten with themarinade, strained through a sieve, and one-fifth pint of brown stock; cover with slices of bacon; close thedaubière, and seal down the lid by means of a thread of soft paste, in order that the steam may be concentrated inside.
Boil on the side of the stove; put thedaubièrein an oven of regular heat (a baker’s oven if possible) that the cooking process may be gentle and steady, and cook for five hours.
When about to serve, uncover thedaubière; remove the overlying slices of bacon; clear of grease; remove the faggot, and dish thedaubièreon a napkin.
N.B.—According to the household method, the “Daube” is served in thedaubièreitself; but, subject to the demands of the service and in order that the preparation may keep its bucolic character, it may be served in small earthenware utensils.
Cold Daube constitutes an excellent luncheon dish. All that is needed is to put what is left into a smalldaubière, where, as a result of the binding properties of the pork rinds, it will set in a mass.
When about to serve, turn out on a round dish; surround with very light, chopped jelly; and carve into very thin slices.
An unalterable principle governs the preparation of émincésand hashes, which is that the meats constituting these dishes should never boil if it be desired that they be not hard.
They should, therefore, only be heated in their accompanying garnish or sauce, and in the case of émincés, cut as finely as possible.
For the various recipes under this head, see the Chapter on Beef. (Nos.1175,1178and1179.)
Heat three oz. of lard in a sautépan. Put therein one-half lb. of lean bacon, cut into dice andblanched, and twenty small onions. When the bacon is frizzled and the onions have acquired a good colour, drain both on a dish. In the same fat, fry three lbs. of breast, neck and shoulder of mutton, all three being cut into pieces weighing about three oz. Keep the meat in the fat until each piece of it has acquired a frizzled coat.
Drain away half of the grease; add three crushed cloves of garlic; dust with two tablespoonfuls of flour, and cook the latter, stirring the while.
Moisten with one quart of water; season with one-third oz.[447]of salt and a pinch of pepper; boil and stir; add a faggot, and cook in the oven for thirty minutes.
This done, transfer the pieces to another saucepan; add the bacon and the onions and a quart of half-cooked haricot beans; strain the sauce over the whole, and complete the cooking in the oven for one hour.
Dish in a timbale or in smallcocottes.
Cut two lbs. of boned breast and shoulder of mutton into pieces, as above.
Slice two lbs. of potatoes and chop four medium-sized onions.
Take a saucepan just large enough to hold these ingredients and the moistening; line the bottom of the utensil with a layer of the pieces of meat, and season the latter with salt and pepper. Upon the meat spread a litter of sliced potatoes and chopped onions; repeat the operation, again and again, until all the ingredients are used up, and remember to place a faggot in the middle.
Moisten with one and one-third pint of water, and cook gently in the oven for one and one-half hours. The potatoes in this preparation answer the double purpose of garnish and leason.
Dish in a timbale and serve boiling.
(1) Cut six fine egg-plants into halves, lengthwise;ciselthe pulp somewhat deeply with the point of a small knife, and fry them until their pulp may be easily removed. Do this with a spoon, and put the pulp aside with the skins of the egg-plants.
(2) Peel two fair-sized egg-plants; cut them into roundels one-third in. thick; season them, dredge them; fry them in oil, and put them aside.
(3) Chop up the pulp withdrawn from the egg-plants, and put it into a basin with one and one-half lbs. of very lean, cooked mutton, chopped or cut into very small dice; two tablespoonfuls of very finely-chopped onion, fried in butter; a pinch of parsley; a piece of crushed garlic as large as a pea; three oz. of roughly-chopped raw mushrooms, fried in butter; two eggs; two tablespoonfuls of cold Espagnole sauce; one tablespoonful of tomato purée; a pinch of salt, and another of pepper. Mix the whole well.
(4) Butter a low-bordered quart Charlotte mould; line it all over with the egg-plant skins, and lay these black side[448]uppermost. Garnish the bottom of the mould with a layer of mincemeat, one in. thick; on this layer place a few fried roundels of egg-plant, and continue thus with alternate layers of mince and egg-plant. Cover the last layer of mince-meat with the remains of the egg-plant skins, and cook in abain-mariefor one hour.
When taking the mould out of the oven, let it stand for five minutes in order that the ingredients may settle; turn out on a round dish, and besprinkle the surface of the Moussaka with chopped parsley.
Follow the directions given under beefsteak pudding (No.1170) exactly. The preparation is just the same, but for the substitution of mutton for the beef.
Heat four oz. of clarified fat in a sautépan, and put into it four lbs. of breast, neck and shoulder of mutton; all three cut into pieces weighing two and one-half oz. Fry over a very brisk fire; season with one-third oz. of salt, a pinch of ground pepper, and another of sugar.
The sugar settles slowly on the bottom of the sautépan, where it turns to caramel; it is then dissolved by the moistening, and thus gives the sauce the required colour.
When the meat is well fried, remove almost all the fat; sprinkle with one and one-half oz. of flour; cook the latter for a few minutes, and moisten with one and one-half quarts of water or stock.
Boil, stirring the while, and add two-thirds lb. of freshconcassedtomatoes or one-fifth pint of tomato purée; one crushed clove of garlic, and a large faggot. Cover and cook in the oven for one hour.
This done, transfer the pieces of mutton, one by one, to another saucepan with twenty small, new onions; twenty pieces of new trimmed carrots; twenty pieces of new turnips, cut to the shape of long olives and tossed with butter in a frying-pan; twenty small, new potatoes, cut into two, and trimmed, or whole; one-sixth pint of fresh peas, and an equal quantity of raw French beans, cut into lozenges. Strain the sauce over the whole; set to boil, and continue cooking slowly in the oven for one hour; taking care from time to time to baste the overlying vegetables with sauce.
Dish in a timbale and serve very hot.
N.B.—When put into the sauce, the vegetables cook much less quickly than in boiling water. In the Navarin, moreover,[449]they are cooked by means of gradual penetration; thus, by slackening the cooking speed of the Navarin, they are cooked to the required extent.
Mutton Pilaff is, in fact, nothing but a Navarin in which the tomatoes dominate the other ingredients; it is flavoured with ginger or saffron, according to circumstances, and the usual vegetables are replaced by rice. Prepared in this way, it does not lend itself very well to the exigencies of a restaurant service.
More often, therefore, it is treated like curried mutton; but, instead of serving it with rice à l’Indienne, it is dished in the midst of a pilaff-rice border. Sometimes, too, the rice is served separately, after the manner of a curry dish.
Large joints of lamb for Relevés are cut like those of mutton.
One joint, however, should be added, which is “The Haunch”; and this consists of one leg and half the loin attached.
Large joints of house lamb should bepoëledor roasted. Their most suitable adjunct is either their own stock, or a thickened, highly seasoned and clear gravy.
House Lamb Relevés are chiefly garnished with early-season or new vegetables; but all the garnishes given under Mutton Relevés may also be served with them, provided the difference in size be taken into account. In addition to these garnishes, saddle of lamb admits of all the preparations given under saddle of veal (Nos.1181to1191).
Completely bone the saddle from underneath, in suchwise as to leave the skin intact; season it inside, and place in the middle a fine foie gras, studded with truffles andmarinadedin Marsala.
Reconstruct the saddle, and wrap it tightly in a piece of muslin; put it in a saucepan just large enough to hold it, on a litter of pieces of bacon rind, cleared of all fat andblanched.[450]Moisten, enough to cover, with the braising-liquor of a cushion of veal; add thereto the Marsala used inmarinadingthe foie gras, and poach for about forty-five minutes.
Before withdrawing the saddle, make sure that the foie gras is sufficiently cooked. Remove the muslin, and put the saddle in an ovalterrine à pâtéjust large enough to hold it. Strain the cooking-liquor over it, without clearing the former of grease, and set it to cool.
When the saddle is quite cold, carefully clear away the grease that lies upon it, first by means of a spoon and then by means of boiling water. Serve it very cold, in the terrine as it stands.
Having trimmed the neck of lamb, as explained, brown it in butter; surround it with eight small, Provence half-artichokes, and cook gently in the oven. The artichokes in question have no chokes and are very tender.
Meanwhile, peel, press,concassand season four or five tomatoes, and fry them in butter. When they are ready, add a large pinch of chopped tarragon to them.
Dish the tomatoes; set the neck upon them, and surround it with the stewed half-artichokes.
Fry a shortened and well-trimmed neck of lamb, in butter.
This done, transfer it to an ovalcocottewith ten small onions browned in butter, and two medium-sized potatoes, cut into large dice, shaped like garlic cloves, andblanched. Sprinkle the whole with melted butter and cook gently in the oven.
Serve the preparation as it stands, in thecocotte, placing the latter on a folded napkin.
Fry the neck of lamb with butter, in an earthenware dish, and surround it with sliced onions, tossed in butter, and sliced potatoes; both of which vegetables should be in quantities in proportion to the size of the piece of meat. The “à la Boulangère” procedure is always the same, and was explained under No.1307, but allowances should always be made for the particular size and tenderness of the piece.
Having shortened and well trimmed the neck, season it; sprinkle it with melted butter, and grill it gently.
[451]When it is almost cooked, sprinkle it again with melted butter and bread-crumbs, and let it acquire a golden colour while completely cooking it.
Serve very hot with mint sauce and a suitable garnish.
Prepare some Anna potatoes (No.2203) in an oval earthenware dish, and add a third of the quantity of potatoes of raw, minced artichoke-bottoms.
When the potatoes are three-parts cooked, stiffen the neck in butter; place it on the potatoes, and complete the cooking of the two, basting often the while with melted butter.
Send the preparation to the table on the dish that has served in the cooking process.
Prepare the following garnish: eight small onions, half-cooked in butter; ten carrots of the size and shape of garlic cloves, cooked in consommé and glazed; and ten turnips of the same shape and size, similarly treated.
Put these vegetables into acocottewith three tablespoonfuls of fresh peas; the same quantity of raw, French beans, cut into lozenge form; two or three tablespoonfuls of good and very clear stock, and complete the cooking of the whole.
Meanwhile,poëlethe neck of lamb, which should have been shortened and trimmed in the usual way. Dish the neck of lamb and serve the vegetables in thecocotte.
Having shortened and trimmed the neck of lamb, stiffen it in butter; surround it with one-half lb. of finely-minced and well-blanchedonions, and complete the cooking of both by stewing.
This done, transfer the neck to a dish and keep it hot. Add one-quarter pint of boiling Béchamel sauce to the onions, and rub them quickly through tammy or a fine sieve. Heat this Soubise; finish it with one and one-half oz. of butter, and pour it over the neck.
Border the dish with a thread of rather light meat glaze, and serve.
Shorten the neck of lamb; suppress the cartilaginous portions and stiffen it in butter. Garnish the bottom of an oval earthenware dish, of the same size as the neck, with a layer of Anna potatoes (No.2203). Set the neck on this layer, and cover it[452]over with a second layer of the same potato preparation. Sprinkle with grated Parmesan; cook in the oven as for Anna potatoes, and take care that the bottom be so well set as to prevent any of the juices of the joint from exuding and depositing on it.
Serve the dish as it stands.
All the recipes given under Haunch and Double (pair of legs), may be applied to the legs and shoulders of house lamb.
The shoulders are often grilled, the operation being effected over a moderate fire after the joints have been incised lattice-fashion, and the same applies to the breast. The “à la Boulangère” treatment (No.1307) admirably suits the legs and shoulders of house lamb.
According to custom, lamb cutlets are usually served like “Noisettes,”i.e., two are allowed for each person.
As a rule, when they are to be grilled, they are previously dipped in melted butter and sprinkled with fine bread-crumbs.
When they are to besautédthey are treatedà l’anglaise(egg and bread-crumbs) except when, subject to their mode of preparation, they have to be served plain or stuffed.
Prepare:—(1) a rizotto (No.2238) with truffles, in proportion to the number of cutlets; (2) some very reduced Béchamel sauce, combined with one-half oz. of grated Parmesan per one-fifth pint of the sauce, and allowing one small tablespoonful of it for each cutlet.
Half-grill the cutlets; dry them, and cover them, on both sides, with the reduced sauce. As soon as the cutlets have received their coat of sauce, dip them, one by one, into beaten egg (anglaise); roll them in very fine bread-crumbs mixed with grated Parmesan. Thoroughly press this coating of bread-crumbs with the flat of a knife, that it may adhere well to the egg and produce a crust at the close of the operation. This done, set the cutlets in a sautépan of very hot, clarified butter, and brown them on both sides.
Dish the rizotto in a very even layer; set the cutlets in a circle on the rice, and fix a frill to the bone of each.
Treat the cutletsà l’anglaise, and cook them in clarified butter.
Dish them in a circle, with a fine slice of truffle upon each;[453]and, in their midst, set a nice heap of asparagus-heads cohered with butter.
Treat the cutletsà l’anglaise, but add to the bread-crumbs the quarter of their weight of grated Parmesan.
Cook the cutlets in clarified butter. Dish them in a circle, and, in their midst, arrange a garnish “à la milanaise” (see Côte de Veauà la Milanaise,No.1258.)
Slightly flatten the cutlets, dip them in beaten egg, and roll them in finely-chopped truffle, which in this case answers the purpose of bread-crumbs. Press the truffle with the flat of a knife, that it may thoroughly combine with the egg, and cook the cutlets in clarified butter. Dish them in a circle; garnish the centre of the dish with a mushroom purée (No.2059), and surround the cutlets with a thread of buttered meat glaze.
For twelve cutlets, make a preparation consisting of four oz. of ham, four oz. of cooked mushrooms, and one-half oz. of chopped, red capsicums; the whole being cohered by means of a very reduced Béchamel sauce, flavoured with truffle essence.
Grill the cutlets on one side only, and garnish them on their grilled side with a tablespoonful of the above preparation, which should be shaped like a dome upon them.
Set the cutlets upon a tray as soon as they are garnished; sprinkle the surface of the preparation, covering them with grated cheese and melted butter, and place them in the oven, that their cooking may be completed and thegratinformed. Meanwhile, toss twelve seasoned half-tomatoes in oil. Dish these tomatoes in a circle; set a cutlet upon each, and border with a thread of tomato sauce.
Grill the cutlets, and, at the same time, prepare as many bread-crumbcroûtonsas there are cutlets, and of exactly the same shape as the latter. Fry thecroûtonsin butter, and coat them with foie-gras purée.
Place a grilled cutlet on each coatedcroûton, and a slice of truffle on the kernel of each cutlet. Now, by means of a[454]piping-bag, fitted with an even pipe, cover the cutlets with some soufflé au Parmesan (No.2295a); dish them in a circle, and put them in the oven for five minutes, that thesoufflémay poach.
After withdrawing them from the oven, garnish the centre of the dish with a heap of asparagus-heads, cohered with butter.
Cook the cutlets in butter on one side only, and cool them under slight pressure.
Garnish the cooked side of each with a tablespoonful of forcemeat with butter (No.193), which should have received a copious addition of chopped truffles. Shape this forcemeat dome-fashion, by means of the flat of a small knife, dipped in tepid water, and set the cutlets, one by one, on a tray. Now put them in the front of the oven for seven or eight minutes that the forcemeat may be poached.
Dish them in a circle, and pour a Périgueux sauce in their midst.
A lamb “epigram” consists of a cutlet, and a piece of braised breast, cooled under slight pressure and cut to the shape of a heart of the same size as the cutlets. The cutlets and the pieces of breast must be treatedà l’anglaise, andsautédor grilled according to circumstance.
Epigrams should be dished in a circle, the cutlets and the pieces being alternated.
They are usually garnished with braised chicory, ormacédoinesof early-season vegetables.
Lamb sweetbreads are, according to circumstances, either used as the principal constituent of various preparations, or they answer the purpose of a garnish.
Due allowance having been made for their particular size, they may be treated after the same manner as veal sweetbreads; that is to say, once they have been cleared of blood, they areblanchedand braised according to the nature of the selected mode of preparation.
If they are to form part of a large garnish, cohered by means of a brown sauce, they are braised brown and glazed. If they stand as an adjunct to poached fowl, they may be either studded or left plain, and braised white.
Apart from their two uses as principal and garnishing[455]constituents, the undermentioned methods of preparation, explained in the various preceding series, may be applied to them;viz.:—
Attereaux,Brochettes,Croustades,Pâtéchaud,Vol au vent, &c.
Prepare the followinggarnish:—Twenty new carrots, cut to the shape of large olives, cooked in consommé and glazed; twenty pieces of turnip, similarly treated; fifteen small, new onions, cooked in butter; twenty very small new potatoes, cooked in butter (orà l’anglaiseif desired); three tablespoonfuls of peas; the same quantity of French beans cut into lozenge-form, and an equal quantity of small flageolet beans. The three last vegetables should be cookedà l’anglaise, and kept rather firm.
Cut two lbs. of shoulder and breast of lamb into pieces weighing two oz., and completely cook them in butter without any moistening.
This done, transfer them to a dish. Swill the saucepan with three tablespoonfuls of water; add five tablespoonfuls of pale meat glaze; heat without boiling, and finish with two and one-half oz. of butter.
Put the pieces of lamb and the vegetables into this sauce, and gently rock the saucepan, that all the ingredients may partake of the sauce.
Serve in a hot timbale.
Proceed exactly as explained under “Pilaw de Mouton” (No.1354), only bear in mind that the time allowed for cooking should be proportionately shortened in view of the greater tenderness of lamb’s meat.
Proceed as for “Currie de Mouton,” after duly allowing, as above, for the greater tenderness of the meat.
Relevés of fresh pork are only served at family and bourgeois meals. They are always roasts and allow of all the dry or fresh vegetable garnishes, as well as the various vegetable purées, and the pastes, such as macaroni, noodles, polenta, gnochi, &c. I shall, therefore, give only a few recipes, and shall select Fresh Neck of Pork as the typical joint.
Roast the neck of pork and withdraw it from the oven a few minutes before it is done.
Keep it in the stove for an hour, that its cooking may be completed gently; but remember, that if a stove is not available, the cooking of the piece should be well finished in the oven; for pork is indigestible when it is not thoroughly well cooked.
Meanwhile, prepare a garnish of sauerkraut (No.2097), and, during the last hour of its cooking, sprinkle it frequently with the fat of the neck.
Dish the neck; clear the sauerkraut of any superfluous fat, and set it round the piece of meat in spoonfuls; slightly pressing it in so doing.
Roast the neck of pork. Three-parts cook the Brussels sprouts; completely drain them, and put them round the piece of meat, that they may complete their cooking in its gravy and fat, being frequently basted the while.
For this preparation it is well to roast the neck in an earthenware dish, in which it may be served with its garnish—a much better plan than that of transferring it to another dish.
Roast the neck of pork; dish it and surround it with a garnish of red cabbages, prepared à la Flamande (No.2098).
[457]Sprinkle the garnish of vegetables with the gravy of the joint, three-parts cleared of grease.
Roast the neck of pork and see that it is well done.
Meanwhile, peel and mince one lb. of apples; put them in a saucepan with one oz. of sugar and a few tablespoonfuls of water; seal the lid of the saucepan well down, so as to concentrate the steam inside, and cook quickly. When about to serve, thoroughly work the apple purée with a wire whisk, in order to smooth it. Dish the neck with its gravy, three-parts cleared of grease, and serve the apple purée separately in a timbale.
Roast the neck on a dish that may be sent to the table.
When it is three-parts done, set one quart of cooked and well-drained haricot beans round it, and complete the cooking gently. Serve the dish as it stands.
Cook plainly in water three lbs. of shoulder, breast, or gammon of bacon, and add thereto a garnish of vegetables as for boiled beef, and six parsnips.
Serve the vegetables round the piece of meat, and send a pease-pudding (prepared as directed below) separately.
Pease-pudding: put one lb. of a purée of yellow or green, split peas into a basin, and mix therewith three oz. of melted or softened butter, three eggs, a pinch of salt, another of pepper, and a little nutmeg. Pour this purée into a pudding basin, and poach it in steam or in abain-marie.
This preparation may also be put into a buttered and flour-dusted napkin; in which case, close the napkin up purse-fashion, tying it up securely with string, and cook the pudding in the same stewpan with the pork. This procedure is simpler than the first and quite as good.
Very often a purée prepared from split, yellow or green peas, is used instead of the pudding given above.
Completely line the bottom and sides of a pie-dish with thin slices of raw ham, and prepare, for a medium-sizeddish:—(1) one and one-half lbs. of fresh pork in collops, seasoned with salt and pepper, and sprinkle with two tablespoonfuls of dry Duxelles (No.223), a pinch of parsley and another of chopped[458]sage; (2) one and one-half lbs. of raw, sliced potatoes, and one large, chopped onion.
Garnish the bottom of the dish with a litter of collops; cover with potatoes and onions; spread another litter of collops, and begin again in the same order. Add one-quarter pint of water; cover with a layer of fine paste or puff-paste trimmings, which should be well sealed down round the edges;gildwith beaten egg; streak the paste with the prongs of a fork; make a slit in the centre of the covering of paste for the escape of steam, and bake in a moderate oven for about two hours.