2098—CHOUX ROUGESA LA FLAMANDEQuarter the cabbages, suppress the outside leaves and the stumps, and cut the trimmed leaves into a finejulienne. Season with salt, pepper, and nutmeg; sprinkle with vinegar, and put thisjulienneinto a well-buttered earthenwarecocotte. Cover and cook in a moderate oven.When the cooking is three-parts done, add four peeled and quartered russet apples and a tablespoonful of moist or powdered sugar.[640]Take note that the cooking must be gentle from start to finish, and that the only moistening should be the vinegar.2099—MARINADED RED CABBAGES FOR HORS-D’ŒUVRECut the cabbages into a smalljulienneas above, and put them into a bowl or deep dish. Sprinkle with table salt, and leave to macerate for two days, stirring frequently the while.Then drain, and put them into a pot with garlic cloves, peppercorns, and one bay leaf. Cover with raw vinegar, or the latter boiled and cooled, and leave tomarinadefor a day or two.Thismarinadedcabbage forms an excellent adjunct to boiled beef.Choux Verts Pommés (Savoy Cabbages)2100—BRAISED CABBAGEQuarter the cabbage; parboil and cool it.Defoliate the quarters; suppress the outside leaves and the midribs of the remaining leaves; season with salt and pepper, and put the cabbage in a saucepan garnished with slices of bacon, and containing one quartered carrot, one onion stuck with a garlic clove, one faggot, two-thirds pint of consommé, and three tablespoonfuls of stock fat per two lbs. of cabbage. Cover with slices of bacon; boil, and then braise gently for two hours.2101—CHOUA L’ANGLAISEPlainly boil or steam the cabbage. Press all the water out of it, between two plates, and cut it into lozenges or squares.2102—CHOU FARCITake a medium-sized round-headed or Savoy cabbage; parboil it; cool it, and suppress its stump. Slightly open out its leaves, and insert between them raw or cooked mince-meat, combined with chopped onion and parsley, and highly seasoned. Reconstruct the cabbage, pressing it closely together; wrap it in slices of bacon; string it, and braise it gently for three hours with stock and stock fat.When about to serve, drain the cabbage; remove the string and the slices of bacon; set it on a dish, and cover it with a few tablespoonfuls of the braising-liquor, cleared of all grease, reduced, and thickened with some half-glaze sauce.Send what remains of the braising-liquor separately.N.B.—The preparation is improved if the mince-meat with which the cabbage is stuffed be combined with a quarter of its bulk of pilaff rice and the same quantity of foie-gras fat.[641]2103—SOU-FASSUM PROVENÇALParboil and cool the cabbage as above; remove the outer large leaves, and set them on a net.Upon this litter of cabbage leaves lay the following products,mixed:—The inside leaves of the cabbage, chopped up and seasoned; one-half lb. ofciseledandblanchedwhite of a leek; one and three-quarter lbs. of sausage-meat; six oz. of lean bacon, cut into dice and frizzled; one chopped onion, fried in butter; two chopped tomatoes; a crushed clove of garlic; three oz. ofblanchedrice and four oz. of fresh, young peas.Gather up the ends of the net, and close it in such a way as to reconstruct the cabbage.Cook it in mutton broth or in ordinary stock for three and one-half or four hours.Serve the sou-fassum plain, on a round dish.2104—CABBAGES FOR GARNISH.—AParboil, cool, and thoroughly drain the cabbage. Remove as many large leaves as there are balls of stuffed cabbage required, and, if the leaves be too small, use two for each ball.Chop up the remains of the cabbage; season them with salt and pepper; put a small portion of them on each of the leaves; close the latter in the shape of balls, and set them one by one in a sautépan.Then proceed, for the cooking, as directed under “Braised Cabbage.”2105—CABBAGES FOR GARNISH.—BPrepare the cabbage as above; insert into the centre of each ball a portion of smooth pork forcemeat, the size of a pigeon’s egg, and braise in the same way.2106—CABBAGES FOR GARNISH.—CParboil the necessary quantity of cabbage leaves, in accordance with the number of balls required. Cool them; spread them out; garnish the middle of each with one tablespoonful of pilaff rice, mixed with foie-gras purée, and close up the leaves to form small packets.Braise as in the case of No.2104.2107—SCOTCH KALE (Chou frisé), SPRING CABBAGE (Choux de Printemps), BROCCOLI LEAVES, TURNIP-TOPSThese various kinds of greens are prepared in the English way, as described above, or they may be prepared with butter, like Brussels sprouts. The two above-mentioned modes of preparation are the only ones that suit them.[642]2108—CAULIFLOWER AND BROCCOLI (Chou-fleur et Broccoli)Broccoli differs from cauliflower in the colour of its flower and the arrangement of the parts of the latter. In the broccoli the flower is of a deep violet. English broccoli never reach the size of those grown in the South of France.Many do not even grow to a head, while their flowers—the size of hazel-nuts—are scattered among the interstices of the surrounding leaves.Cauliflowers and large broccoli allow of the same treatment.2109—CHOU-FLEURA LA CRÈMECut the cauliflowers into bunches; remove the small leaves which are attached, and cook the cauliflower in salted water.Thoroughly drain; set the bunches in a timbale, reconstructing the cauliflower in so doing, or on a dish covered with a folded napkin, and serve a cream sauce separately.2110—CHOU-FLEUR AU GRATINHaving well drained the cauliflower, dry it in butter for a few minutes; mould it in a bowl, and pour a few tablespoonfuls of Mornay sauce into it.Coat the bottom of a dish with the same sauce, and turn out the cauliflower on the dish; completely cover with Mornay sauce; sprinkle with grated cheese mixed with raspings; bedew with melted butter, and set thegratinto form.2111—CHOU-FLEURA LA MILANAISESet the cauliflower on a buttered dish sprinkled with grated cheese. Also sprinkle the cauliflower with cheese; add a few pieces of butter, and set thegratinto form.On taking the dish out of the oven, sprinkle the cauliflower with nut-brown butter, and serve immediately.2112—CHOU-FLEURA LA POLONAISEThoroughly drain the cauliflower, and set it on a buttered dish.Sprinkle it with chopped, hard-boiled egg-yolks and chopped parsley, mixed. When about to serve, bedew with nut-brown butter, in which one-half oz. of fine bread-crumbs (per three oz. of butter) should have been fried.2113—CAULIFLOWER WITH VARIOUS SAUCESCook the cauliflower in salted water. Drain it thoroughly, and set it in a timbale. Serve at the same time either a sauceboat ofMelted Butter,a Butter,a Hollandaise, ora Mousselinesauce, &c.[643]2114—PURÉE DE CHOU-FLEUR diteA LA DUBARRYCook the cauliflower in salted water; drain it well; rub it through tammy, and combine the resulting purée with one quarter of its bulk of somewhat firm, mashed potatoes with cream. Heat; add butter away from the fire, and dish in a timbale.Brussels Sprouts (Choux de Bruxelles)2115—CHOUX DE BRUXELLESA L’ANGLAISECook them in salted water; drain them well, and dish them on a drainer or in a timbale.2116—CHOUX DE BRUXELLESA LA CRÈMECook the sprouts; drain them well without cooling them; stew them in butter, and chop them up. Then combine them with as much fresh cream as possible.2117—CHOUX DE BRUXELLES SAUTÉSCook them, and, after having thoroughly drained them, throw them into an omelet-pan containing some very hot butter. Toss them until they are nicely frizzled; dish them in a timbale, and sprinkle them with chopped parsley.2118—CHOUX DE BRUXELLES AU BEURRECook them, keeping them somewhat firm, and drain without cooling them.Put them into a sautépan; season them with salt and pepper; add two oz. of butter (per lb. of sprouts) cut into small pieces; cover, and stew in the oven for one-quarter hour.2119—PURÉE DE CHOUX DE BRUXELLES dite FLAMANDEThree-parts cook the sprouts; drain them well without cooling them, and complete their cooking by stewing them in butter. Rub them through tammy, and add to the resulting purée one-third of its bulk of mashed potatoes.Heat, add butter away from the fire, and dish in a timbale.2120—SEA KALE(Chou Marin)This is one of the best and most delicate of English vegetables.It is trimmed with great care, washed, and then tied into bunches of from five to six plants, and these are plainly cooked in salted water.All cardoon recipes, and sauces given for asparagus, may be applied to sea kale.[644]2121—CUCUMBER AND VEGETABLE MARROW(Concombres et Courgettes)Though of different shapes, these two vegetables allow of almost the same treatment when they are cooked. They are especially used as garnishes.2122—CONCOMBRESA LA CRÈMEPeel, and cut the cucumber to shapes resembling olives; parboil and drain these pieces. This done, three-parts cook them in butter; moisten with boiling cream, and finish the cooking in reducing the cream. At the very last moment add a little Béchamel sauce with the view of slightly thickening the preparation, and dish in a timbale.2123—CONCOMBRES GLACÉSAfter having shaped them like large garlic cloves, quickly parboil them. This done, treat them as directed under “Carottes glacées,” and roll them sufficiently in their cooking-liquor, reduced to the consistence of a thick syrup, to thoroughly coat them with it.2124—CONCOMBRES FARCIS.—ACut the cucumbers into two-inch lengths; peel, parboil, and drain them. Then hollow them out to form small, round cases; set them side by side in a sautépan, and cook them in butter. When they are three-parts cooked, fill them with a raw, chicken forcemeat, effecting this operation by means of a piping-bag. The forcemeat should be slightly moulded in the cucumber cases.Complete the cooking of the cucumber, gently, while poaching the forcemeat.2125—CONCOMBRES FARCIS.—BPeel the cucumbers; split them open lengthwise, and empty them by means of a root-spoon. This done, parboil and drain without cooling them.Garnish each half-cucumber, level with the edges, with a chicken forcemeat, prepared with frangipan, and combined with a third of its weight of Duxelles. Reconstruct the cucumbers by placing the halves one against the other; wrap them each in a slice of bacon, and then in a piece of muslin, and finally string them. This done, braise them in the usual way. When they are cooked, remove their wrappings, and cut them into roundels the thickness of which is determined by the size of the piece of which they are the adjuncts.[645]2126—STACHYS(Crosnes du Japon)Whatever be their mode of preparation, stachys must be cleaned, parboiled, and kept firm, and cooked in butter without colouration.2127—CROSNESA LA CRÈMEAfter having parboiled the stachys and three-parts cooked them in butter, moisten with boiling cream, and complete their cooking while reducing the cream. Add a little thin, fresh cream at the last moment, and dish in a timbale.2128—CROSNES SAUTÉSAU BEURREAfter having parboiled, drained, and dried the stachys, put them in an omelet-pan containing some very hot butter, and toss them over a fierce fire, until they are well frizzled. Dish in a timbale, and sprinkle moderately with chopped parsley.2129—CROSNES AU VELOUTÉCompletely cook the stachys in salted water. Drain them, and cohere them with the required quantity of Velouté flavoured with mushroom essence.2130—CROQUETTES DE CROSNESHaving cooked the stachys in salted water, and kept them somewhat firm, thoroughly drain them and mix them with a very reduced Allemande sauce, in the proportion of one-fifth pint per lb. of stachys. Spread this preparation on a buttered dish, and cool. Now cut this preparation into portions weighing about two oz.; shape these portions like balls, pears, quoits, or otherwise, dip them in beaten eggs, and roll them in very fine bread-crumbs.Plunge these croquettes into very hot fat five or six minutes before serving; drain them on a piece of linen; salt moderately, and dish on a napkin with very green, fried parsley.2131—PURÉE DE CROSNESCook the stachys in salted water, keeping them somewhat firm, and add thereto four oz. of quartered potatoes per lb. of stachys.As soon as they are cooked, drain the stachys and the potatoes; rub them through a sieve, and dry the purée over a very fierce fire. Add the necessary quantity of milk to bring the purée to its proper consistence; heat; add butter away from the fire, and dish in a timbale.2132—SPINACH (Épinards)Spinach should only be prepared at the last moment, if possible.After having parboiled it in plenty of boiling salted water,[646]cool it, press out all its contained water, and, according to circumstances, either chop it up or rub it through a sieve.If it has to be served with the leaves left whole, merely drain it on a sieve, without either pressing or cooling it.2133—ÉPINARDSA L’ANGLAISECook it after having carefully shredded it; drain it well, and dish in a timbale without cooling.2134—ÉPINARDSA LA CRÈMEHaving chopped up or rubbed the spinach through a sieve, put it into a sautépan with two oz. of butter per lb., and dry it over a fierce fire.Now add the quarter of its bulk of cream sauce to it, and simmer gently for ten minutes.Dish in a timbale when about to serve, and sprinkle the surface with fresh cream.2135—ÉPINARDS AU GRATINDry the spinach as above in three oz. of butter per lb., and then, in the same proportion, add two and one-half oz. of grated cheese.Set on a butteredgratin-dish; sprinkle copiously with grated cheese and melted butter, and set thegratinto form in a fierce oven.2136—ÉPINARDSA LA VIROFLAYSpread some large leaves ofblanchedspinach on a napkin, and in the middle of each lay asubric, the substance of which should have been combined with very smallcroûtonsof bread-crumb fried in butter. Wrap thesubricsin the spinach leaves; cover with Mornay sauce; sprinkle with grated cheese and melted butter, and set to glaze in a fierce oven.2137—SUBRICS D’ÉPINARDSDry the spinach in butter as described above, and add to it per lb. of spinach (away from the fire) one-sixth pint of very reduced Béchamel sauce; two tablespoonfuls of thick cream; one egg and the yolks of three, well beaten; salt, pepper, and nutmeg.Make a sufficient quantity of clarified butter very hot in an omelet-pan.Take up some of the preparation of spinach by means of a spoon, and let the contents of the latter drop (propelled by the finger) into the butter. Proceed thus in the making of thesubrics, and take care that they do not touch. When a minute[647]has elapsed, turn them over with a spatula or a fork, that their other sides may colour.Set on a dish or in a timbale, and serve a cream sauce separately.2138—CRÊPES AUX ÉPINARDSParboil some well-shredded spinach; dry it in butter; season it, and add to it an equal quantity of Yorkshire-pudding paste (No.1943).Cook this preparation in a small, well-buttered omelet-pan or in deep tartlet-moulds.N.B.—These spinach pancakes constitute an excellent garnish for Relevés of Beef, Veal, and Ham.2139—SOUFFLÉ AUX ÉPINARDSMake a composition after the directions given under No.2092. Spread this composition in two or three layers, and set on each of the latter a litter of well-cleaned and soaked anchovy fillets, arranged to form a lattice. Finish with a layer of spinach shaped like a dome, and set thereon two crossed rows of anchovy fillets. Cook after the manner of an ordinarysoufflé.2140—SOUFFLÉ AUX ÉPINARDS AUX TRUFFESProceed as directed in the preceding recipe, but substitute anchovy fillets for some fine slices of truffle.N.B.—Both these spinachsoufflésmay be served either as vegetables, in which case they are moulded in large timbales, or as garnishes, when they are dished in smallcassolettesof appropriate size.They are very delicate preparations, which may be varied by watercresssoufflé—prepared in the same way.2141—FEUILLES DE VIGNE FARCIES OU DOLMAS(Stuffed Vine Leaves)Provided the vine-leaves be very tender, they may serve in the preparation of the followinggarnish:—Suppress their stalks; parboil the leaves; drain them well, and arrange three or four at a time in the form of a circular tray, in the centre of which lay a tablespoonful of pilaff rice to which some foie-gras purée has been added. This done, draw the ends of the leaves over the rice, so as to enclose it and to form regular balls of equal size.Put these balls, well-pressed, one against the other in a sautépan, the bottom of which should be garnished with slices of bacon; cover with thin slices of bacon; moisten just enough to cover, with good consommé; boil, and then braise gently.[648]2142—TUBEROUS FENNEL(Fenouil Tubéreux)This vegetable is not very well known in England, where it is sold only by the leading merchants of early-season vegetables. It is prepared like the cardoons and the marrows.2143—BROAD BEANS (Fèves)Broad beans should be shelled just before being cooked, and it is quite the rule to peel them. Boil them in salted water containing a bunch of savory, the size of which should be in proportion to the quantity of broad beans. When they are cooked and drained, add the leaves of savory (chopped) to them.2144—FÈVES AU BEURREHaving well-drained and peeled the broad beans, toss them over a fierce fire to dry them, and then finish them, away from the fire, with three oz. of butter per lb. of beans.2145—FÈVESA LA CRÈMEAfter having dried and peeled the broad beans, cohere them (per lb.) with three tablespoonfuls of thick, fresh cream.2146—PURÉE DE FÈVESProceed exactly as for purée of peas. This purée constitutes a very delicate garnish, which is particularly well suited to ham.2147—GOMBOSThis vegetable—so common in America and the East—is only very rarely used in England, where, however, it is now beginning to be better known.There are two kinds of Gombos: the long and the round kind. The latter is also calledBamiaorBamiès. Both kinds are prepared after the same recipes.2148—GOMBOSA LA CRÈMEAfter having trimmed them, parboil them in salted water and drain them. Then cook them in butter, and, just before serving them, cohere them with a cream sauce.2149—GOMBOS POUR GARNITURESParboil the gombos until they are two-thirds cooked. Drain them well, and complete their cooking in the braising-liquor of the piece they are to accompany.If they are to garnish a pouletsauté, complete their cooking in some thin veal gravy.2150—HOP SPROUTS(Jets de Houblon)The eatable part is separated from the fibrous by breaking off the ends of the sprouts, as in the case of asparagus or sprew.[649]After having washed them in several waters, cook them in salted water containing, per every quart, the juice of one half-lemon.Hop sprouts may be prepared with butter, cream, velouté, &c. When served as a vegetable, they are invariably accompanied by poached eggs, which are laid in a crown round them and alternated by comb-shapedcroûtonsfried in butter.Haricot-Beans (Haricots Blancs)2151—HARICOTS BLANCSA L’AMÉRICAINE(Lima Beans)Cook the beans as described under No.274. But add to the prescribed ingredients one-half lb. of lean bacon per pint of dry beans.When they are cooked and well drained, mix them with the bacon cut into dice, and cohere them with some good tomato sauce.2152—HARICOTS BLANCS AU BEURREHaving well drained the haricot-beans, season them with salt and pepper and cohere them with two oz. of butter per lb. of cooked beans. Dish in a timbale and sprinkle with chopped parsley.2153—HARICOTS BLANCSA LA BRETONNEDrain them well and cohere them with a Bretonne sauce, in the proportion of one-third pint of sauce per lb. of cooked haricot-beans. Dish in a timbale with chopped parsley.2154—PURÉE DE HARICOTS BLANCS dite SOISSONNAISERub the haricot-beans through a sieve while they are burning-hot. Add to the purée (per lb. thereof) three oz. of butter; dry it over a very fierce fire, and then add some milk to it, to bring it to its proper consistence.2155—FLAGEOLETS(Haricots Flageolets)These beans are used more especially fresh; but, when they are out of season, recourse is often had to preserved or dried flageolets.They are prepared in the same way as haricot-beans. Their purée, which is very delicate, is known under the name of “Purée Musard,” and it is particularly suitable for the garnishing of mutton. It is also used as a thickening ingredient in the purée of French beans, and nothing can equal it for the purpose; for, not only is it an unctuous thickening medium, but its flavour is peculiarly adapted to the throwing into relief of that of the French beans.[650]2156—RED BEANS(Haricots Rouges)Red beans are cooked in salted water with one-third lb. of lean bacon, one pint of red wine, one carrot, one onion stuck with a clove, and one faggot per quart of beans. The bacon should be withdrawn as soon as cooked. These beans are cohered by means ofmaniedbutter, and they are then mixed with the bacon, which is cut into dice and frizzled in butter.2157—FRENCH BEANS(Haricots Verts)French beans are among the greatest vegetable delicacies; but they have to be prepared with the utmost care.Their quality is such that they are almost always good, in spite of faulty preparation—so common in their case; but, when they are cooked with care, no other vegetable can surpass them in perfection of flavour. They should be taken quite fresh, and they should not be cooked too long. They are best when they seem a little firm to the teeth, without, of course, being in the least hard.They must not be cooled when cooked; they should only besautédover the fire with the view of causing the evaporation of their moisture.After having seasoned them with salt and pepper, add to them (per lb.) about three oz. of very fresh butter, cut into small pieces;sautéthem so as to effect their leason, and straightway serve them.Do not add chopped parsley to French beans, unless it be very tender and gathered and chopped at the last moment.2158—HARICOTS PANACHÉSThis consists of French beans and flageolets, in equal quantities, cohered with butter.2159—PURÉE DE HARICOTS VERTSCook the French beans in salted water; drain them well, and stew them in butter for eight or ten minutes. Rub them through a fine sieve, and mix the resulting purée with half its bulk of very creamy, flageolet purée.Lettuces (Laitues)2160—LAITUES BRAISÉES AU JUSAfter having parboiled, cooled, and pressed the water out of them, tie them together in twos or threes, and braise them as directed under No.275. This done, cut them in two, unfold the end of each half, and set them on a dish, in the form of a crown; alternating them with heart-shapedcroûtonsfried in butter. Or, merely dish them in a timbale.[651]Coat them with the reduced braising-liquor combined with some thickened veal gravy.N.B.—Braised lettuces may also be stuffed after the manner described under No.2106.2161—LAITUESA LA MOELLEBraise and dish the lettuces as above.Upon the turban of lettuces, set a crown of large slices of poached marrow, and coat with a moderately thick buttered gravy.2162—LAITUES FARCIESParboil, cool, and press the lettuces.This done, open them in the middle without touching their stems, and garnish them with good forcemeat, combined with half its bulk of dry Duxelles (No.223). Reconstruct the lettuces; string them; braise them, and dish them as directed under No.2160.2163—LAITUES FARCIES POUR GARNITUREProceed as directed under Nos.2104to2106.2164—LAITUESA LA CRÈMEProceed as directed under No.2089.2165—SOUFFLÉ DE LAITUESProceed as directed under No.2139.Lentils (Lentilles)Lentils are cooked as directed under the “preparation of dry vegetables” (No.274).2166—LENTILLES AU BEURRECarefully drain the lentils; dry them by tossing them over the fire, and cohere them with butter in the proportion of two oz. of the latter per lb. of lentils.Dish in a timbale, and sprinkle with a little chopped parsley.2167—PURÉE DE LENTILLESProceed as for the purée of haricot-beans.2168—VÉRONIQUE (Laver)As this vegetable is sold already cooked at English markets, it is only necessary to add enough good Espagnole sauce to it, when heating it, to make a properly consistent purée.2169—MAIZE (Maïs)Take the maize when it is quite fresh and still milky, and cook it either in steam or salted water; taking care to retain the leaves on the ears. When cooked, the leaves are drawn[652]back so as to represent stalks, and the ears are bared if they be served whole. This done, set the ears on a napkin, and send a hors-d’œuvre dish of fresh butter to the table with them.If the maize has to be grilled, put the ears on a grill in the oven, and, when they have swollen and are of a golden colour, withdraw the grains and set the latter on a napkin. Sometimes, too, the ears are served whole.When maize is served as an accompaniment, the grains are separated from the stalk and cohered with butter or cream, exactly like peas.Failing fresh maize, excellent preserved kinds are to be found on the market.2170—SOUFFLÉ DE MAÏSA LA CRÈMECook the maize in water or steam; rub it quickly through tammy; put it into a saucepan with a small piece of butter, and quickly dry it.This done, add sufficient fresh cream to this purée to make a somewhat soft paste. Thicken this paste with the yolks of three eggs, per lb. of purée, and combine it with the whites of four eggs beaten to a stiff froth. Mould and cook after the manner of an ordinarysoufflé.2171—SOUFFLÉ DE MAÏS AU PAPRIKABefore rubbing the maize through a sieve, add to it two tablespoonfuls of chopped onion fried in butter, and a large pinch of paprika per lb. of maize. Proceed for the rest of the operation as in the case of No.2170.N.B.—These twosoufflésare served as a garnish and may be cooked either in a timbale or in smallcassolettes. They constitute excellent adjuncts to large, poached fowls.2172—CHESTNUTS (Marrons)Slightly split open the shell on the convex sides of the nuts, and put them in the oven for from seven to eight minutes, on a tray containing a little water, that they may be shelled with ease.Or, split them open in the same way; put them in small quantities at a time in a frying-basket, and plunge them into very hot fat. Peel them while they are still quite hot.2173—STEWED CHESTNUTSAs soon as they are peeled, cook them in enough consommé to just cover them, and add half a stick of celery per lb. of chestnuts.[653]If they are intended for the stuffing of a goose or a turkey, keep them somewhat firm.2174—BRAISED AND GLAZED CHESTNUTSTake some very large chestnuts, and dip them in hot fat in order to peel them. Then set them in one layer, one against the other in a sautépan. If they were heaped, only a poor result could be obtained.Moisten them, just enough to cover, with strong veal stock, and stir them as little as possible while they are cooking, so as to avoid breaking them.When they are three-parts cooked, reduce the moistening, and gently roll the chestnuts in the glaze resulting from this reduction, that they may be covered with a brilliant coating.Chestnuts prepared in this way serve more particularly as a garnish.2175—PURÉE DE MARRONSHaving thoroughly peeled the chestnuts, cook them in white consommé, with a celery stalk as in the case of No.2173, and one-half oz. of sugar per lb. of chestnuts. Continue cooking until they may be easily crushed; rub them through tammy, and treat the purée as directed in the case of the preceding ones.2176—TURNIPS (Navets)Whether served as vegetables or as a garnish, turnips are prepared like carrots. They may, therefore, either be served glazed, or “à la Crème,” &c.They may also be served stuffed, after the followingrecipes:—2177—STUFFED TURNIPS.—ATake some round, medium-sized turnips, fairly equal in size. Peel them, and, in so doing, shape them nicely; then, by means of a round fancy-cutter, cut them deeply at their base, pressing the instrument into the pulp.This done, thoroughly parboil and empty them.With the withdrawn pulp, prepare a purée, to which add an equal quantity of mashed potatoes. Garnish the turnips with this purée, and shape the visible portion of the latter dome-fashion.Set the stuffed turnips in a sautépan, and complete their cooking in butter, taking care to baste them frequently.2178—STUFFED TURNIPS.—BPrepare the turnips as above; but stuff them with a preparation of semolina cooked in consommé and combined with grated Parmesan.[654]Complete the cooking as directed in the preceding recipe.N.B.—Proceeding in the same way, turnips may be stuffed with spinach, chicory, and even with farinaceous vegetables or rice, kept very creamy. All these garnishes are at once sightly and excellent.2179—PURÉEDE NAVETS(Turnip Purée)Slice the turnips and cook them in a little butter, salt, sugar, and the necessary amount of water. Rub through tammy, and thicken the resulting purée with only just the required quantity of very good mashed potatoes.2180—TURNIP-TOPSYoung turnip-tops are very much liked in England as a luncheon vegetable. They should be prepared like “Choux vertscookedà l’anglaise.”Onions (Oignons)
Quarter the cabbages, suppress the outside leaves and the stumps, and cut the trimmed leaves into a finejulienne. Season with salt, pepper, and nutmeg; sprinkle with vinegar, and put thisjulienneinto a well-buttered earthenwarecocotte. Cover and cook in a moderate oven.
When the cooking is three-parts done, add four peeled and quartered russet apples and a tablespoonful of moist or powdered sugar.
[640]Take note that the cooking must be gentle from start to finish, and that the only moistening should be the vinegar.
Cut the cabbages into a smalljulienneas above, and put them into a bowl or deep dish. Sprinkle with table salt, and leave to macerate for two days, stirring frequently the while.
Then drain, and put them into a pot with garlic cloves, peppercorns, and one bay leaf. Cover with raw vinegar, or the latter boiled and cooled, and leave tomarinadefor a day or two.
Thismarinadedcabbage forms an excellent adjunct to boiled beef.
Quarter the cabbage; parboil and cool it.
Defoliate the quarters; suppress the outside leaves and the midribs of the remaining leaves; season with salt and pepper, and put the cabbage in a saucepan garnished with slices of bacon, and containing one quartered carrot, one onion stuck with a garlic clove, one faggot, two-thirds pint of consommé, and three tablespoonfuls of stock fat per two lbs. of cabbage. Cover with slices of bacon; boil, and then braise gently for two hours.
Plainly boil or steam the cabbage. Press all the water out of it, between two plates, and cut it into lozenges or squares.
Take a medium-sized round-headed or Savoy cabbage; parboil it; cool it, and suppress its stump. Slightly open out its leaves, and insert between them raw or cooked mince-meat, combined with chopped onion and parsley, and highly seasoned. Reconstruct the cabbage, pressing it closely together; wrap it in slices of bacon; string it, and braise it gently for three hours with stock and stock fat.
When about to serve, drain the cabbage; remove the string and the slices of bacon; set it on a dish, and cover it with a few tablespoonfuls of the braising-liquor, cleared of all grease, reduced, and thickened with some half-glaze sauce.
Send what remains of the braising-liquor separately.
N.B.—The preparation is improved if the mince-meat with which the cabbage is stuffed be combined with a quarter of its bulk of pilaff rice and the same quantity of foie-gras fat.
Parboil and cool the cabbage as above; remove the outer large leaves, and set them on a net.
Upon this litter of cabbage leaves lay the following products,mixed:—
The inside leaves of the cabbage, chopped up and seasoned; one-half lb. ofciseledandblanchedwhite of a leek; one and three-quarter lbs. of sausage-meat; six oz. of lean bacon, cut into dice and frizzled; one chopped onion, fried in butter; two chopped tomatoes; a crushed clove of garlic; three oz. ofblanchedrice and four oz. of fresh, young peas.
Gather up the ends of the net, and close it in such a way as to reconstruct the cabbage.
Cook it in mutton broth or in ordinary stock for three and one-half or four hours.
Serve the sou-fassum plain, on a round dish.
Parboil, cool, and thoroughly drain the cabbage. Remove as many large leaves as there are balls of stuffed cabbage required, and, if the leaves be too small, use two for each ball.
Chop up the remains of the cabbage; season them with salt and pepper; put a small portion of them on each of the leaves; close the latter in the shape of balls, and set them one by one in a sautépan.
Then proceed, for the cooking, as directed under “Braised Cabbage.”
Prepare the cabbage as above; insert into the centre of each ball a portion of smooth pork forcemeat, the size of a pigeon’s egg, and braise in the same way.
Parboil the necessary quantity of cabbage leaves, in accordance with the number of balls required. Cool them; spread them out; garnish the middle of each with one tablespoonful of pilaff rice, mixed with foie-gras purée, and close up the leaves to form small packets.
Braise as in the case of No.2104.
These various kinds of greens are prepared in the English way, as described above, or they may be prepared with butter, like Brussels sprouts. The two above-mentioned modes of preparation are the only ones that suit them.
Broccoli differs from cauliflower in the colour of its flower and the arrangement of the parts of the latter. In the broccoli the flower is of a deep violet. English broccoli never reach the size of those grown in the South of France.
Many do not even grow to a head, while their flowers—the size of hazel-nuts—are scattered among the interstices of the surrounding leaves.
Cauliflowers and large broccoli allow of the same treatment.
Cut the cauliflowers into bunches; remove the small leaves which are attached, and cook the cauliflower in salted water.
Thoroughly drain; set the bunches in a timbale, reconstructing the cauliflower in so doing, or on a dish covered with a folded napkin, and serve a cream sauce separately.
Having well drained the cauliflower, dry it in butter for a few minutes; mould it in a bowl, and pour a few tablespoonfuls of Mornay sauce into it.
Coat the bottom of a dish with the same sauce, and turn out the cauliflower on the dish; completely cover with Mornay sauce; sprinkle with grated cheese mixed with raspings; bedew with melted butter, and set thegratinto form.
Set the cauliflower on a buttered dish sprinkled with grated cheese. Also sprinkle the cauliflower with cheese; add a few pieces of butter, and set thegratinto form.
On taking the dish out of the oven, sprinkle the cauliflower with nut-brown butter, and serve immediately.
Thoroughly drain the cauliflower, and set it on a buttered dish.
Sprinkle it with chopped, hard-boiled egg-yolks and chopped parsley, mixed. When about to serve, bedew with nut-brown butter, in which one-half oz. of fine bread-crumbs (per three oz. of butter) should have been fried.
Cook the cauliflower in salted water. Drain it thoroughly, and set it in a timbale. Serve at the same time either a sauceboat ofMelted Butter,a Butter,a Hollandaise, ora Mousselinesauce, &c.
Cook the cauliflower in salted water; drain it well; rub it through tammy, and combine the resulting purée with one quarter of its bulk of somewhat firm, mashed potatoes with cream. Heat; add butter away from the fire, and dish in a timbale.
Cook them in salted water; drain them well, and dish them on a drainer or in a timbale.
Cook the sprouts; drain them well without cooling them; stew them in butter, and chop them up. Then combine them with as much fresh cream as possible.
Cook them, and, after having thoroughly drained them, throw them into an omelet-pan containing some very hot butter. Toss them until they are nicely frizzled; dish them in a timbale, and sprinkle them with chopped parsley.
Cook them, keeping them somewhat firm, and drain without cooling them.
Put them into a sautépan; season them with salt and pepper; add two oz. of butter (per lb. of sprouts) cut into small pieces; cover, and stew in the oven for one-quarter hour.
Three-parts cook the sprouts; drain them well without cooling them, and complete their cooking by stewing them in butter. Rub them through tammy, and add to the resulting purée one-third of its bulk of mashed potatoes.
Heat, add butter away from the fire, and dish in a timbale.
This is one of the best and most delicate of English vegetables.
It is trimmed with great care, washed, and then tied into bunches of from five to six plants, and these are plainly cooked in salted water.
All cardoon recipes, and sauces given for asparagus, may be applied to sea kale.
Though of different shapes, these two vegetables allow of almost the same treatment when they are cooked. They are especially used as garnishes.
Peel, and cut the cucumber to shapes resembling olives; parboil and drain these pieces. This done, three-parts cook them in butter; moisten with boiling cream, and finish the cooking in reducing the cream. At the very last moment add a little Béchamel sauce with the view of slightly thickening the preparation, and dish in a timbale.
After having shaped them like large garlic cloves, quickly parboil them. This done, treat them as directed under “Carottes glacées,” and roll them sufficiently in their cooking-liquor, reduced to the consistence of a thick syrup, to thoroughly coat them with it.
Cut the cucumbers into two-inch lengths; peel, parboil, and drain them. Then hollow them out to form small, round cases; set them side by side in a sautépan, and cook them in butter. When they are three-parts cooked, fill them with a raw, chicken forcemeat, effecting this operation by means of a piping-bag. The forcemeat should be slightly moulded in the cucumber cases.
Complete the cooking of the cucumber, gently, while poaching the forcemeat.
Peel the cucumbers; split them open lengthwise, and empty them by means of a root-spoon. This done, parboil and drain without cooling them.
Garnish each half-cucumber, level with the edges, with a chicken forcemeat, prepared with frangipan, and combined with a third of its weight of Duxelles. Reconstruct the cucumbers by placing the halves one against the other; wrap them each in a slice of bacon, and then in a piece of muslin, and finally string them. This done, braise them in the usual way. When they are cooked, remove their wrappings, and cut them into roundels the thickness of which is determined by the size of the piece of which they are the adjuncts.
Whatever be their mode of preparation, stachys must be cleaned, parboiled, and kept firm, and cooked in butter without colouration.
After having parboiled the stachys and three-parts cooked them in butter, moisten with boiling cream, and complete their cooking while reducing the cream. Add a little thin, fresh cream at the last moment, and dish in a timbale.
After having parboiled, drained, and dried the stachys, put them in an omelet-pan containing some very hot butter, and toss them over a fierce fire, until they are well frizzled. Dish in a timbale, and sprinkle moderately with chopped parsley.
Completely cook the stachys in salted water. Drain them, and cohere them with the required quantity of Velouté flavoured with mushroom essence.
Having cooked the stachys in salted water, and kept them somewhat firm, thoroughly drain them and mix them with a very reduced Allemande sauce, in the proportion of one-fifth pint per lb. of stachys. Spread this preparation on a buttered dish, and cool. Now cut this preparation into portions weighing about two oz.; shape these portions like balls, pears, quoits, or otherwise, dip them in beaten eggs, and roll them in very fine bread-crumbs.
Plunge these croquettes into very hot fat five or six minutes before serving; drain them on a piece of linen; salt moderately, and dish on a napkin with very green, fried parsley.
Cook the stachys in salted water, keeping them somewhat firm, and add thereto four oz. of quartered potatoes per lb. of stachys.
As soon as they are cooked, drain the stachys and the potatoes; rub them through a sieve, and dry the purée over a very fierce fire. Add the necessary quantity of milk to bring the purée to its proper consistence; heat; add butter away from the fire, and dish in a timbale.
Spinach should only be prepared at the last moment, if possible.
After having parboiled it in plenty of boiling salted water,[646]cool it, press out all its contained water, and, according to circumstances, either chop it up or rub it through a sieve.
If it has to be served with the leaves left whole, merely drain it on a sieve, without either pressing or cooling it.
Cook it after having carefully shredded it; drain it well, and dish in a timbale without cooling.
Having chopped up or rubbed the spinach through a sieve, put it into a sautépan with two oz. of butter per lb., and dry it over a fierce fire.
Now add the quarter of its bulk of cream sauce to it, and simmer gently for ten minutes.
Dish in a timbale when about to serve, and sprinkle the surface with fresh cream.
Dry the spinach as above in three oz. of butter per lb., and then, in the same proportion, add two and one-half oz. of grated cheese.
Set on a butteredgratin-dish; sprinkle copiously with grated cheese and melted butter, and set thegratinto form in a fierce oven.
Spread some large leaves ofblanchedspinach on a napkin, and in the middle of each lay asubric, the substance of which should have been combined with very smallcroûtonsof bread-crumb fried in butter. Wrap thesubricsin the spinach leaves; cover with Mornay sauce; sprinkle with grated cheese and melted butter, and set to glaze in a fierce oven.
Dry the spinach in butter as described above, and add to it per lb. of spinach (away from the fire) one-sixth pint of very reduced Béchamel sauce; two tablespoonfuls of thick cream; one egg and the yolks of three, well beaten; salt, pepper, and nutmeg.
Make a sufficient quantity of clarified butter very hot in an omelet-pan.
Take up some of the preparation of spinach by means of a spoon, and let the contents of the latter drop (propelled by the finger) into the butter. Proceed thus in the making of thesubrics, and take care that they do not touch. When a minute[647]has elapsed, turn them over with a spatula or a fork, that their other sides may colour.
Set on a dish or in a timbale, and serve a cream sauce separately.
Parboil some well-shredded spinach; dry it in butter; season it, and add to it an equal quantity of Yorkshire-pudding paste (No.1943).
Cook this preparation in a small, well-buttered omelet-pan or in deep tartlet-moulds.
N.B.—These spinach pancakes constitute an excellent garnish for Relevés of Beef, Veal, and Ham.
Make a composition after the directions given under No.2092. Spread this composition in two or three layers, and set on each of the latter a litter of well-cleaned and soaked anchovy fillets, arranged to form a lattice. Finish with a layer of spinach shaped like a dome, and set thereon two crossed rows of anchovy fillets. Cook after the manner of an ordinarysoufflé.
Proceed as directed in the preceding recipe, but substitute anchovy fillets for some fine slices of truffle.
N.B.—Both these spinachsoufflésmay be served either as vegetables, in which case they are moulded in large timbales, or as garnishes, when they are dished in smallcassolettesof appropriate size.
They are very delicate preparations, which may be varied by watercresssoufflé—prepared in the same way.
Provided the vine-leaves be very tender, they may serve in the preparation of the followinggarnish:—Suppress their stalks; parboil the leaves; drain them well, and arrange three or four at a time in the form of a circular tray, in the centre of which lay a tablespoonful of pilaff rice to which some foie-gras purée has been added. This done, draw the ends of the leaves over the rice, so as to enclose it and to form regular balls of equal size.
Put these balls, well-pressed, one against the other in a sautépan, the bottom of which should be garnished with slices of bacon; cover with thin slices of bacon; moisten just enough to cover, with good consommé; boil, and then braise gently.
This vegetable is not very well known in England, where it is sold only by the leading merchants of early-season vegetables. It is prepared like the cardoons and the marrows.
Broad beans should be shelled just before being cooked, and it is quite the rule to peel them. Boil them in salted water containing a bunch of savory, the size of which should be in proportion to the quantity of broad beans. When they are cooked and drained, add the leaves of savory (chopped) to them.
Having well-drained and peeled the broad beans, toss them over a fierce fire to dry them, and then finish them, away from the fire, with three oz. of butter per lb. of beans.
After having dried and peeled the broad beans, cohere them (per lb.) with three tablespoonfuls of thick, fresh cream.
Proceed exactly as for purée of peas. This purée constitutes a very delicate garnish, which is particularly well suited to ham.
This vegetable—so common in America and the East—is only very rarely used in England, where, however, it is now beginning to be better known.
There are two kinds of Gombos: the long and the round kind. The latter is also calledBamiaorBamiès. Both kinds are prepared after the same recipes.
After having trimmed them, parboil them in salted water and drain them. Then cook them in butter, and, just before serving them, cohere them with a cream sauce.
Parboil the gombos until they are two-thirds cooked. Drain them well, and complete their cooking in the braising-liquor of the piece they are to accompany.
If they are to garnish a pouletsauté, complete their cooking in some thin veal gravy.
The eatable part is separated from the fibrous by breaking off the ends of the sprouts, as in the case of asparagus or sprew.[649]After having washed them in several waters, cook them in salted water containing, per every quart, the juice of one half-lemon.
Hop sprouts may be prepared with butter, cream, velouté, &c. When served as a vegetable, they are invariably accompanied by poached eggs, which are laid in a crown round them and alternated by comb-shapedcroûtonsfried in butter.
Cook the beans as described under No.274. But add to the prescribed ingredients one-half lb. of lean bacon per pint of dry beans.
When they are cooked and well drained, mix them with the bacon cut into dice, and cohere them with some good tomato sauce.
Having well drained the haricot-beans, season them with salt and pepper and cohere them with two oz. of butter per lb. of cooked beans. Dish in a timbale and sprinkle with chopped parsley.
Drain them well and cohere them with a Bretonne sauce, in the proportion of one-third pint of sauce per lb. of cooked haricot-beans. Dish in a timbale with chopped parsley.
Rub the haricot-beans through a sieve while they are burning-hot. Add to the purée (per lb. thereof) three oz. of butter; dry it over a very fierce fire, and then add some milk to it, to bring it to its proper consistence.
These beans are used more especially fresh; but, when they are out of season, recourse is often had to preserved or dried flageolets.
They are prepared in the same way as haricot-beans. Their purée, which is very delicate, is known under the name of “Purée Musard,” and it is particularly suitable for the garnishing of mutton. It is also used as a thickening ingredient in the purée of French beans, and nothing can equal it for the purpose; for, not only is it an unctuous thickening medium, but its flavour is peculiarly adapted to the throwing into relief of that of the French beans.
Red beans are cooked in salted water with one-third lb. of lean bacon, one pint of red wine, one carrot, one onion stuck with a clove, and one faggot per quart of beans. The bacon should be withdrawn as soon as cooked. These beans are cohered by means ofmaniedbutter, and they are then mixed with the bacon, which is cut into dice and frizzled in butter.
French beans are among the greatest vegetable delicacies; but they have to be prepared with the utmost care.
Their quality is such that they are almost always good, in spite of faulty preparation—so common in their case; but, when they are cooked with care, no other vegetable can surpass them in perfection of flavour. They should be taken quite fresh, and they should not be cooked too long. They are best when they seem a little firm to the teeth, without, of course, being in the least hard.
They must not be cooled when cooked; they should only besautédover the fire with the view of causing the evaporation of their moisture.
After having seasoned them with salt and pepper, add to them (per lb.) about three oz. of very fresh butter, cut into small pieces;sautéthem so as to effect their leason, and straightway serve them.
Do not add chopped parsley to French beans, unless it be very tender and gathered and chopped at the last moment.
This consists of French beans and flageolets, in equal quantities, cohered with butter.
Cook the French beans in salted water; drain them well, and stew them in butter for eight or ten minutes. Rub them through a fine sieve, and mix the resulting purée with half its bulk of very creamy, flageolet purée.
After having parboiled, cooled, and pressed the water out of them, tie them together in twos or threes, and braise them as directed under No.275. This done, cut them in two, unfold the end of each half, and set them on a dish, in the form of a crown; alternating them with heart-shapedcroûtonsfried in butter. Or, merely dish them in a timbale.
[651]Coat them with the reduced braising-liquor combined with some thickened veal gravy.
N.B.—Braised lettuces may also be stuffed after the manner described under No.2106.
Braise and dish the lettuces as above.
Upon the turban of lettuces, set a crown of large slices of poached marrow, and coat with a moderately thick buttered gravy.
Parboil, cool, and press the lettuces.
This done, open them in the middle without touching their stems, and garnish them with good forcemeat, combined with half its bulk of dry Duxelles (No.223). Reconstruct the lettuces; string them; braise them, and dish them as directed under No.2160.
Proceed as directed under Nos.2104to2106.
Proceed as directed under No.2089.
Proceed as directed under No.2139.
Lentils are cooked as directed under the “preparation of dry vegetables” (No.274).
Carefully drain the lentils; dry them by tossing them over the fire, and cohere them with butter in the proportion of two oz. of the latter per lb. of lentils.
Dish in a timbale, and sprinkle with a little chopped parsley.
Proceed as for the purée of haricot-beans.
As this vegetable is sold already cooked at English markets, it is only necessary to add enough good Espagnole sauce to it, when heating it, to make a properly consistent purée.
Take the maize when it is quite fresh and still milky, and cook it either in steam or salted water; taking care to retain the leaves on the ears. When cooked, the leaves are drawn[652]back so as to represent stalks, and the ears are bared if they be served whole. This done, set the ears on a napkin, and send a hors-d’œuvre dish of fresh butter to the table with them.
If the maize has to be grilled, put the ears on a grill in the oven, and, when they have swollen and are of a golden colour, withdraw the grains and set the latter on a napkin. Sometimes, too, the ears are served whole.
When maize is served as an accompaniment, the grains are separated from the stalk and cohered with butter or cream, exactly like peas.
Failing fresh maize, excellent preserved kinds are to be found on the market.
Cook the maize in water or steam; rub it quickly through tammy; put it into a saucepan with a small piece of butter, and quickly dry it.
This done, add sufficient fresh cream to this purée to make a somewhat soft paste. Thicken this paste with the yolks of three eggs, per lb. of purée, and combine it with the whites of four eggs beaten to a stiff froth. Mould and cook after the manner of an ordinarysoufflé.
Before rubbing the maize through a sieve, add to it two tablespoonfuls of chopped onion fried in butter, and a large pinch of paprika per lb. of maize. Proceed for the rest of the operation as in the case of No.2170.
N.B.—These twosoufflésare served as a garnish and may be cooked either in a timbale or in smallcassolettes. They constitute excellent adjuncts to large, poached fowls.
Slightly split open the shell on the convex sides of the nuts, and put them in the oven for from seven to eight minutes, on a tray containing a little water, that they may be shelled with ease.
Or, split them open in the same way; put them in small quantities at a time in a frying-basket, and plunge them into very hot fat. Peel them while they are still quite hot.
As soon as they are peeled, cook them in enough consommé to just cover them, and add half a stick of celery per lb. of chestnuts.
[653]If they are intended for the stuffing of a goose or a turkey, keep them somewhat firm.
Take some very large chestnuts, and dip them in hot fat in order to peel them. Then set them in one layer, one against the other in a sautépan. If they were heaped, only a poor result could be obtained.
Moisten them, just enough to cover, with strong veal stock, and stir them as little as possible while they are cooking, so as to avoid breaking them.
When they are three-parts cooked, reduce the moistening, and gently roll the chestnuts in the glaze resulting from this reduction, that they may be covered with a brilliant coating.
Chestnuts prepared in this way serve more particularly as a garnish.
Having thoroughly peeled the chestnuts, cook them in white consommé, with a celery stalk as in the case of No.2173, and one-half oz. of sugar per lb. of chestnuts. Continue cooking until they may be easily crushed; rub them through tammy, and treat the purée as directed in the case of the preceding ones.
Whether served as vegetables or as a garnish, turnips are prepared like carrots. They may, therefore, either be served glazed, or “à la Crème,” &c.
They may also be served stuffed, after the followingrecipes:—
Take some round, medium-sized turnips, fairly equal in size. Peel them, and, in so doing, shape them nicely; then, by means of a round fancy-cutter, cut them deeply at their base, pressing the instrument into the pulp.
This done, thoroughly parboil and empty them.
With the withdrawn pulp, prepare a purée, to which add an equal quantity of mashed potatoes. Garnish the turnips with this purée, and shape the visible portion of the latter dome-fashion.
Set the stuffed turnips in a sautépan, and complete their cooking in butter, taking care to baste them frequently.
Prepare the turnips as above; but stuff them with a preparation of semolina cooked in consommé and combined with grated Parmesan.
[654]Complete the cooking as directed in the preceding recipe.
N.B.—Proceeding in the same way, turnips may be stuffed with spinach, chicory, and even with farinaceous vegetables or rice, kept very creamy. All these garnishes are at once sightly and excellent.
Slice the turnips and cook them in a little butter, salt, sugar, and the necessary amount of water. Rub through tammy, and thicken the resulting purée with only just the required quantity of very good mashed potatoes.
Young turnip-tops are very much liked in England as a luncheon vegetable. They should be prepared like “Choux vertscookedà l’anglaise.”