Cold Creams with a Whisked-Cream Base.

Cold Creams with a Whisked-Cream Base.2644—CRÈMEA LA CHANTILLYTake some fresh and somewhat thick cream, and whisk it until it is sufficiently stiff to span the members of the whisk. Add to it eight oz. of powdered sugar per quart of cream, and flavour with vanilla or fruit essence.[765]Whatever be the purpose of this cream, it should, if possible, be prepared only at the last moment.2645—CRÈME AUX FRUITSA LA CHANTILLYThe constituents for this preparation are a purée of the selected fruit and Chantilly cream, in the proportion of one-third of the former to two-thirds of the latter.The quantities of sugar and kind of flavour vary according to the nature of the fruit.It is served either as an entremet garnish, or alone in a bowl, with a decoration of the same cream, laid by means of a piping-bag fitted with a small even or grooved pipe. Send some lady’s-finger biscuits separately.2646—CRÈME CAPRICETake some Chantilly cream, and add to it one-quarter of its bulk of roughly broken-upmeringues. Put the preparation in an icedMadeleine-mould, lined with white paper; seal up thoroughly; string tightly, and keep the utensil in ice for two hours.Turn out when about to serve; remove the paper; and decorate, by means of a piping-bag fitted with a grooved pipe, with Chantilly cream, tinted pink with strawberry and raspberry juice.2647—BRISE DU PRINTEMPSTake some violet-flavoured, slightly-iced Chantilly cream, and set in small dessert-dishes, by means of a spoon.2648—NUÉES ROSESTake some Chantilly cream, aromatised with vanilla-flavoured strawberry purée, and dish it in small dessert-dishes, by means of a spoon.2649—FLAMRIBoil one pint of white wine and as much water, and sprinkle in it eight oz. of small semolina. Cook gently for twenty-five minutes. Then add to the preparation two-thirds lb. of powdered sugar, a pinch of table-salt, two eggs, and the whites of six, beaten to a stiff froth.Pour it into moulds with buttered sides; set these to poach in thebain-marie, and leave them to cool. Turn out, and coat with a purée of raw fruit, such as strawberries, red-currants, cherries, etc., reasonably sugared.2650—JELLIESFrom the standpoint of their preparation, jellies are of two kinds: (1) wine- or liqueur-flavoured jellies; (2) fruit jellies. But their base is the same in all cases,i.e., gelatine dissolved in a certain quantity of water.[766]The gelatine should be extracted from calf’s foot, by boiling the latter; but, although this is the best that can be obtained, the means of obtaining it are the most complicated. The gelatine bought ready-made may also be used in the quantities given below.2651—CALF’S-FOOT JELLYTake some fine soaked andblanchedcalves’ feet, and set them to cook in one and three-quarters pints of water apiece. Skim as thoroughly as possible; cover, and then cook very gently for seven hours. This done, strain the cooking-liquor and clear it of all grease; test its strength, after having cooled a little of it on ice; rectify it if necessary with sufficient filtered water, and once more test it by means of ice.Per quart of calf’s-foot jelly, add eight oz. of sugar, a mite of cinnamon, half the rind of an orange and lemon, and all their juice.For the clarification, proceed as directed hereafter.2652—JELLY WITH A GELATINE BASEDissolve one oz. of strong gelatine in a quart of water. Add one-half lb. of sugar, one-sixth oz. of coriander, and thezestand juice of half a lemon and of a whole orange; boil, and then let the preparation stand for ten minutes away from the fire.Whisk one and a half egg-whites in a very clean saucepan, together with a port wine-glassful of white wine, and pour the cleared syrup, little by little, over the egg-whites, whisking briskly the while. Set the saucepan on the fire, and continue whisking until the boil is reached; then move the utensil to a corner of the stove, and keep the jelly only just simmering for one-quarter of an hour.At the end of that time the clarification is completed; strain the jelly through a woollen bag, placed over a very clean bowl, and, if the jelly is turbid after the first time of straining, strain it again and again until it becomes quite clear. Let it almost cool before adding any flavour.The Flavouring.—Whether the jelly be prepared from calves’ feet or from gelatine, the above preparation is naught else than a cohered syrup, to which the addition of some flavour lends the character of a jelly. The complementary ingredients for jellies are liqueurs, good wines, and the juice of fruit; and the quantity of water prescribed should be so reduced as to allow for the ultimate addition of the liquid flavouring.Thus, every jelly of which the flavour is a liqueur ought to be prepared with only nine-tenths of a quart of water; and the[767]remaining one-tenth of the measure is subsequently added in the form of Kirsch, Maraschino, Rum, or Anisette, etc.A jelly flavoured with a good wine, such as Champagne, Madeira, Sherry, Marsala, etc., should contain only seven-tenths of a quart of water and three-tenths of a quart of the selected wine.In the case offruit jellies, the procedure differs in accordance with the kind of fruit used.Forred-fruit jellies, prepared from strawberries, raspberries, red-currants, cherries, and cranberries, these fruits, which should be very ripe, are rubbed through a sieve, and combined with one-tenth to three-tenths of a quart of water per lb., according as to whether the fruit be more or less juicy.This done, filter the resulting juice, and add it to the jelly in the proportion of one part of the former to two parts of the latter. The jelly should therefore be twice as strong as for the previous preparation, in order that it may remain sufficiently consistent in spite of the added juice.When the fruit is too juicy, rub it through a sieve; let the juice ferment for a few hours, and only filter the clear juice which results from the fermentation.Aqueous-fruit jellies, prepared from grapes, oranges, lemons, and tangerines, are made in the same way. The filtering of these fruit juices is easily done, and, except for the grapes, they need not be set to ferment.When these fruits are not quite ripe, their juices may be added to the jelly even before the clarification—a procedure which helps to modify their acidity. The apportionment of the fruit juices to the jelly is practically the same as that of the red-fruit juices.Stone-fruit, such as apricots, peaches, nectarines, plums, etc., are often used as jelly garnishes, but seldom serve as the flavouring base of a jelly. Whenever they are treated in this way, they are first plunged in boiling water, that they may be peeled; they are then poached and left to cool in the syrup which goes towards preparing the jelly.This jelly, after it has been clarified and three-parts cooled, should have a little Kirsch or Maraschino added to it, that its fruit flavour may be intensified.2653—THE GARNISH AND ACCOMPANIMENTS OF JELLIESAs a rule, jellies are served plain. Sometimes, however, they are garnished with variously-shaped, stewed fruits, symmetrically distributed in the jelly, with their colours nicely contrasted.A jelly prepared in this way is called a “Suédoise of fruit.”[768]2654—GELÉESRUBANNÉESThese are differently-flavoured and differently-coloured jellies moulded in alternate layers, even and equally thick.They are generally served without garnish.2655—JELLIESA LA RUSSEThese are ordinary jellies which are whisked over ice until they begin to set. They are then speedily moulded. By skilfully mixing two or three of these jellies, of different shades and flavours, at the moment of moulding, very effective “Marbled Jellies” are obtained.2656—JELLIESA LA MOSCOVITEThese are ordinary jellies, poured into tightly-closing moulds, the sealing of which is ensured by a thread of butter, laid round the edges of the lids. The moulds are then surrounded with broken ice, mixed with five lb. of freezing salt and eight oz. of saltpetre per twenty-five lb. of ice.The cold produced by the salted ice causes a frosted coat to form round the jelly, the effect of which is exceedingly pretty. But the moulds should be withdrawn from the ice as soon as the frosted coat is formed and the jelly is set; for a longer sojourn in the cold would transform the jelly into an uneatable block of ice.N.B.—Modern methods have greatly simplified the dishing and serving of jellies. They are now dished in special silver bowls or deep dishes, and they are not, as a rule, moulded. The bottom of these utensils is sometimes decked with stewed fruit ormacédoinesof fruit which are covered with the jelly; and, as the latter is served in the utensil itself, the quantity of gelatine may be reduced, and greater delicacy is the result.2657—PAINS DE FRUITSThese “pains” are made in ordinary Charlotte moulds.Clothethe mould with a fairly thick coat of jelly, in keeping with the flavour of the fruit used, which may be apricots, strawberries, red-currants, cherries, peaches, etc. Fill up the mould with a preparation, made as for a fruit Bavarois, but without cream.The amount of gelatine used should therefore be reduced.2658—COLD PUDDINGSCold puddings have a great deal in common with Bavarois and, more often than not, these two kinds of sweets have the same base. Their distinguishing difference lies in the fact that Bavarois are generally served without a garnish or sauce, whereas puddings always have either one or the other, and sometimes both.[769]The sauces for puddings are those given at the beginning of this chapter.Their garnishes always consist of fruit, and the latter is either stewed and served separately, or it is candied and combined with the pudding paste.2659—PUDDINGA LA BOHÉMIENNEMake some very small pancakes, and garnish them with asalpiconof candied fruits and currants swelled in tepid water, cohered with some fairly stiff, apple purée. Close up the pancakes to the shape of balls or rectangles, and set them in a buttered border-mould. Fill up the mould with a moulded-custard preparation (No.2639), containing a good proportion of whole eggs, and poach in abain-marie.Leave the whole to cool in the mould; turn out at the last moment, and coat the pudding with asabayon, flavoured according to fancy.2660—PUDDING DIPLOMATEDecorate the bottom of an oiled deep Bavarois-mould with pieces of candied fruit. Fill up the mould with alternate layers of vanilla-flavoured Bavarois preparation and “lady’s-finger-biscuits,” saturated with Kirsch. On each layer of biscuit sprinkle some currants and raisins swelled in tepid water, and here and there set a tablespoonful of apricot jam.Let the contents of the mould set in the cool or on ice, and turn out just before serving.2661—PUDDING DIPLOMATE AUX FRUITSPrepare the pudding as above, but spread a few extra layers of fresh fruit in the mould, such as very ripe pears, peaches, apricots, etc., all peeled, cut into thin slices, and previously macerated with powdered sugar and half a port wine-glassful of either Kirsch, Maraschino, or Anisette, etc.When the pudding is turned out, surround its base with some very cold stewed fruit the same as one of the kinds used inside the pudding, or some stewed, mixed fruit.2662—PUDDING MALAKOFFPrepare (1) a gelatinous English custard, combined with one pint of very fresh, raw cream per quart; (2) a stew of apples and pears, prepared as for an apple Charlotte; currants and sultanas, swelled in tepid syrup; fresh splintered almonds; candied orange rind, cut into dice; slices of stale biscuit, or lady’s-finger biscuits, saturated with liqueur. Oil a Charlotte mould, and pour into it a layer of cream half an inch thick. Upon this cream lay[770]a thickness of biscuits, copiously coated with marmalade, and sprinkle with raisins, almonds and orange-rind dice.Cover with a layer of cream; lay a second thickness of biscuits, and proceed thus in the same order with a Kirsch-flavoured coldsabayon.2663—PUDDINGA LA NESSELRODETo an English custard, prepared after No.2397, add eight oz. of a smooth, chestnut purée, and four oz. of currants and sultanas (swelled in tepid water), and candied orange-rind and cherries, cut into dice; these four products should be in almost equal quantities, and ought to have been previously macerated in sweetened Madeira.Add some Maraschino-flavoured, whipped cream to the preparation; apportioning it as for a Bavarois.Garnish the bottom and sides of a Charlotte mould with white paper; pour the preparation into the mould; completely close the latter, sealing the lid down with a thread of butter, and surround the utensil with plenty of salted ice. When about to serve, turn out on a napkin; remove the paper, and surround the base of the pudding with a crown of fine, candied chestnuts, or balls of chocolate-iced, candied chestnut purée.N.B.—The English custard may be packed in the freezer, mixed with whipped cream when it is almost congealed, and then placed in a mould.2664—PUDDINGA LA RICHELIEURub some stewed prunes through a fine sieve, and add to the purée equal quantities of very stiff, Kirsch-flavoured jelly and the reduced juice of the prunes. Let a layer three-quarters of an inch thick, of the preparation set on the bottom of a Charlotte mould. In the latter set a smaller mould (tinned outside), filled with broken ice, and either fitted with handles that can rest on the brim of the first mould, or else sufficiently deep to be easily grasped and removed when necessary. The space between the sides of the two moulds should measure about three-quarters of an inch.Fill up this space with what remains of the prune purée, thickened with jelly; leave the preparation to set; withdraw the ice from the little mould; pour some tepid water into the latter, that it may be immediately detached from the surrounding, iced preparation.Fill the space left by the withdrawn mould with some vanilla-flavoured Bavarois preparation; leave to set, and turn out at the last moment on a napkin.[771]2665—PUDDING OR “CRÈMEREINE DES FÉES”Prepare the whites of four eggs as for Italianmeringue(No.2383), and add to the sugar, while cooking, its bulk of quince jelly, and, at the last moment, one and a half ounces of candied fruit, cut into dice,maceratedin Kirsch and carefully drained. Set themeringue, in shapes resembling large buttons, on a sheet of paper.Boil in a utensil large enough to take the sheet of paper, four quarts of water, containing two and a half lb. of sugar and one-quarter pint of Kirsch. Slip the sheet of paper into this boiling syrup; withdraw it as soon as it easily separates from the pieces ofmeringue; poach the latter; drain them on a piece of linen and let them cool.Meanwhile, make two Bavarois preparations; one white and vanilla-flavoured, and the other pink and flavoured with Curaçao. In these preparations the quantity of whisked cream should be twice as much as for ordinary Bavarois, whereas the quantity of gelatine should be reduced by half.Set these preparations in even, alternate layers, in a slightly-oiled iced-Madeleine mould, distributing themeringuesbetween each layer.Cover the mould with a piece of paper and a lid, and keep it surrounded by ice for two hours. When about to serve, turn it out on a napkin.

Cold Creams with a Whisked-Cream Base.2644—CRÈMEA LA CHANTILLYTake some fresh and somewhat thick cream, and whisk it until it is sufficiently stiff to span the members of the whisk. Add to it eight oz. of powdered sugar per quart of cream, and flavour with vanilla or fruit essence.[765]Whatever be the purpose of this cream, it should, if possible, be prepared only at the last moment.

Take some fresh and somewhat thick cream, and whisk it until it is sufficiently stiff to span the members of the whisk. Add to it eight oz. of powdered sugar per quart of cream, and flavour with vanilla or fruit essence.

[765]Whatever be the purpose of this cream, it should, if possible, be prepared only at the last moment.

The constituents for this preparation are a purée of the selected fruit and Chantilly cream, in the proportion of one-third of the former to two-thirds of the latter.

The quantities of sugar and kind of flavour vary according to the nature of the fruit.

It is served either as an entremet garnish, or alone in a bowl, with a decoration of the same cream, laid by means of a piping-bag fitted with a small even or grooved pipe. Send some lady’s-finger biscuits separately.

Take some Chantilly cream, and add to it one-quarter of its bulk of roughly broken-upmeringues. Put the preparation in an icedMadeleine-mould, lined with white paper; seal up thoroughly; string tightly, and keep the utensil in ice for two hours.

Turn out when about to serve; remove the paper; and decorate, by means of a piping-bag fitted with a grooved pipe, with Chantilly cream, tinted pink with strawberry and raspberry juice.

Take some violet-flavoured, slightly-iced Chantilly cream, and set in small dessert-dishes, by means of a spoon.

Take some Chantilly cream, aromatised with vanilla-flavoured strawberry purée, and dish it in small dessert-dishes, by means of a spoon.

Boil one pint of white wine and as much water, and sprinkle in it eight oz. of small semolina. Cook gently for twenty-five minutes. Then add to the preparation two-thirds lb. of powdered sugar, a pinch of table-salt, two eggs, and the whites of six, beaten to a stiff froth.

Pour it into moulds with buttered sides; set these to poach in thebain-marie, and leave them to cool. Turn out, and coat with a purée of raw fruit, such as strawberries, red-currants, cherries, etc., reasonably sugared.

From the standpoint of their preparation, jellies are of two kinds: (1) wine- or liqueur-flavoured jellies; (2) fruit jellies. But their base is the same in all cases,i.e., gelatine dissolved in a certain quantity of water.

[766]The gelatine should be extracted from calf’s foot, by boiling the latter; but, although this is the best that can be obtained, the means of obtaining it are the most complicated. The gelatine bought ready-made may also be used in the quantities given below.

Take some fine soaked andblanchedcalves’ feet, and set them to cook in one and three-quarters pints of water apiece. Skim as thoroughly as possible; cover, and then cook very gently for seven hours. This done, strain the cooking-liquor and clear it of all grease; test its strength, after having cooled a little of it on ice; rectify it if necessary with sufficient filtered water, and once more test it by means of ice.

Per quart of calf’s-foot jelly, add eight oz. of sugar, a mite of cinnamon, half the rind of an orange and lemon, and all their juice.

For the clarification, proceed as directed hereafter.

Dissolve one oz. of strong gelatine in a quart of water. Add one-half lb. of sugar, one-sixth oz. of coriander, and thezestand juice of half a lemon and of a whole orange; boil, and then let the preparation stand for ten minutes away from the fire.

Whisk one and a half egg-whites in a very clean saucepan, together with a port wine-glassful of white wine, and pour the cleared syrup, little by little, over the egg-whites, whisking briskly the while. Set the saucepan on the fire, and continue whisking until the boil is reached; then move the utensil to a corner of the stove, and keep the jelly only just simmering for one-quarter of an hour.

At the end of that time the clarification is completed; strain the jelly through a woollen bag, placed over a very clean bowl, and, if the jelly is turbid after the first time of straining, strain it again and again until it becomes quite clear. Let it almost cool before adding any flavour.

The Flavouring.—Whether the jelly be prepared from calves’ feet or from gelatine, the above preparation is naught else than a cohered syrup, to which the addition of some flavour lends the character of a jelly. The complementary ingredients for jellies are liqueurs, good wines, and the juice of fruit; and the quantity of water prescribed should be so reduced as to allow for the ultimate addition of the liquid flavouring.

Thus, every jelly of which the flavour is a liqueur ought to be prepared with only nine-tenths of a quart of water; and the[767]remaining one-tenth of the measure is subsequently added in the form of Kirsch, Maraschino, Rum, or Anisette, etc.

A jelly flavoured with a good wine, such as Champagne, Madeira, Sherry, Marsala, etc., should contain only seven-tenths of a quart of water and three-tenths of a quart of the selected wine.

In the case offruit jellies, the procedure differs in accordance with the kind of fruit used.

Forred-fruit jellies, prepared from strawberries, raspberries, red-currants, cherries, and cranberries, these fruits, which should be very ripe, are rubbed through a sieve, and combined with one-tenth to three-tenths of a quart of water per lb., according as to whether the fruit be more or less juicy.

This done, filter the resulting juice, and add it to the jelly in the proportion of one part of the former to two parts of the latter. The jelly should therefore be twice as strong as for the previous preparation, in order that it may remain sufficiently consistent in spite of the added juice.

When the fruit is too juicy, rub it through a sieve; let the juice ferment for a few hours, and only filter the clear juice which results from the fermentation.

Aqueous-fruit jellies, prepared from grapes, oranges, lemons, and tangerines, are made in the same way. The filtering of these fruit juices is easily done, and, except for the grapes, they need not be set to ferment.

When these fruits are not quite ripe, their juices may be added to the jelly even before the clarification—a procedure which helps to modify their acidity. The apportionment of the fruit juices to the jelly is practically the same as that of the red-fruit juices.

Stone-fruit, such as apricots, peaches, nectarines, plums, etc., are often used as jelly garnishes, but seldom serve as the flavouring base of a jelly. Whenever they are treated in this way, they are first plunged in boiling water, that they may be peeled; they are then poached and left to cool in the syrup which goes towards preparing the jelly.

This jelly, after it has been clarified and three-parts cooled, should have a little Kirsch or Maraschino added to it, that its fruit flavour may be intensified.

As a rule, jellies are served plain. Sometimes, however, they are garnished with variously-shaped, stewed fruits, symmetrically distributed in the jelly, with their colours nicely contrasted.

A jelly prepared in this way is called a “Suédoise of fruit.”

These are differently-flavoured and differently-coloured jellies moulded in alternate layers, even and equally thick.

They are generally served without garnish.

These are ordinary jellies which are whisked over ice until they begin to set. They are then speedily moulded. By skilfully mixing two or three of these jellies, of different shades and flavours, at the moment of moulding, very effective “Marbled Jellies” are obtained.

These are ordinary jellies, poured into tightly-closing moulds, the sealing of which is ensured by a thread of butter, laid round the edges of the lids. The moulds are then surrounded with broken ice, mixed with five lb. of freezing salt and eight oz. of saltpetre per twenty-five lb. of ice.

The cold produced by the salted ice causes a frosted coat to form round the jelly, the effect of which is exceedingly pretty. But the moulds should be withdrawn from the ice as soon as the frosted coat is formed and the jelly is set; for a longer sojourn in the cold would transform the jelly into an uneatable block of ice.

N.B.—Modern methods have greatly simplified the dishing and serving of jellies. They are now dished in special silver bowls or deep dishes, and they are not, as a rule, moulded. The bottom of these utensils is sometimes decked with stewed fruit ormacédoinesof fruit which are covered with the jelly; and, as the latter is served in the utensil itself, the quantity of gelatine may be reduced, and greater delicacy is the result.

These “pains” are made in ordinary Charlotte moulds.

Clothethe mould with a fairly thick coat of jelly, in keeping with the flavour of the fruit used, which may be apricots, strawberries, red-currants, cherries, peaches, etc. Fill up the mould with a preparation, made as for a fruit Bavarois, but without cream.

The amount of gelatine used should therefore be reduced.

Cold puddings have a great deal in common with Bavarois and, more often than not, these two kinds of sweets have the same base. Their distinguishing difference lies in the fact that Bavarois are generally served without a garnish or sauce, whereas puddings always have either one or the other, and sometimes both.

[769]The sauces for puddings are those given at the beginning of this chapter.

Their garnishes always consist of fruit, and the latter is either stewed and served separately, or it is candied and combined with the pudding paste.

Make some very small pancakes, and garnish them with asalpiconof candied fruits and currants swelled in tepid water, cohered with some fairly stiff, apple purée. Close up the pancakes to the shape of balls or rectangles, and set them in a buttered border-mould. Fill up the mould with a moulded-custard preparation (No.2639), containing a good proportion of whole eggs, and poach in abain-marie.

Leave the whole to cool in the mould; turn out at the last moment, and coat the pudding with asabayon, flavoured according to fancy.

Decorate the bottom of an oiled deep Bavarois-mould with pieces of candied fruit. Fill up the mould with alternate layers of vanilla-flavoured Bavarois preparation and “lady’s-finger-biscuits,” saturated with Kirsch. On each layer of biscuit sprinkle some currants and raisins swelled in tepid water, and here and there set a tablespoonful of apricot jam.

Let the contents of the mould set in the cool or on ice, and turn out just before serving.

Prepare the pudding as above, but spread a few extra layers of fresh fruit in the mould, such as very ripe pears, peaches, apricots, etc., all peeled, cut into thin slices, and previously macerated with powdered sugar and half a port wine-glassful of either Kirsch, Maraschino, or Anisette, etc.

When the pudding is turned out, surround its base with some very cold stewed fruit the same as one of the kinds used inside the pudding, or some stewed, mixed fruit.

Prepare (1) a gelatinous English custard, combined with one pint of very fresh, raw cream per quart; (2) a stew of apples and pears, prepared as for an apple Charlotte; currants and sultanas, swelled in tepid syrup; fresh splintered almonds; candied orange rind, cut into dice; slices of stale biscuit, or lady’s-finger biscuits, saturated with liqueur. Oil a Charlotte mould, and pour into it a layer of cream half an inch thick. Upon this cream lay[770]a thickness of biscuits, copiously coated with marmalade, and sprinkle with raisins, almonds and orange-rind dice.

Cover with a layer of cream; lay a second thickness of biscuits, and proceed thus in the same order with a Kirsch-flavoured coldsabayon.

To an English custard, prepared after No.2397, add eight oz. of a smooth, chestnut purée, and four oz. of currants and sultanas (swelled in tepid water), and candied orange-rind and cherries, cut into dice; these four products should be in almost equal quantities, and ought to have been previously macerated in sweetened Madeira.

Add some Maraschino-flavoured, whipped cream to the preparation; apportioning it as for a Bavarois.

Garnish the bottom and sides of a Charlotte mould with white paper; pour the preparation into the mould; completely close the latter, sealing the lid down with a thread of butter, and surround the utensil with plenty of salted ice. When about to serve, turn out on a napkin; remove the paper, and surround the base of the pudding with a crown of fine, candied chestnuts, or balls of chocolate-iced, candied chestnut purée.

N.B.—The English custard may be packed in the freezer, mixed with whipped cream when it is almost congealed, and then placed in a mould.

Rub some stewed prunes through a fine sieve, and add to the purée equal quantities of very stiff, Kirsch-flavoured jelly and the reduced juice of the prunes. Let a layer three-quarters of an inch thick, of the preparation set on the bottom of a Charlotte mould. In the latter set a smaller mould (tinned outside), filled with broken ice, and either fitted with handles that can rest on the brim of the first mould, or else sufficiently deep to be easily grasped and removed when necessary. The space between the sides of the two moulds should measure about three-quarters of an inch.

Fill up this space with what remains of the prune purée, thickened with jelly; leave the preparation to set; withdraw the ice from the little mould; pour some tepid water into the latter, that it may be immediately detached from the surrounding, iced preparation.

Fill the space left by the withdrawn mould with some vanilla-flavoured Bavarois preparation; leave to set, and turn out at the last moment on a napkin.

Prepare the whites of four eggs as for Italianmeringue(No.2383), and add to the sugar, while cooking, its bulk of quince jelly, and, at the last moment, one and a half ounces of candied fruit, cut into dice,maceratedin Kirsch and carefully drained. Set themeringue, in shapes resembling large buttons, on a sheet of paper.

Boil in a utensil large enough to take the sheet of paper, four quarts of water, containing two and a half lb. of sugar and one-quarter pint of Kirsch. Slip the sheet of paper into this boiling syrup; withdraw it as soon as it easily separates from the pieces ofmeringue; poach the latter; drain them on a piece of linen and let them cool.

Meanwhile, make two Bavarois preparations; one white and vanilla-flavoured, and the other pink and flavoured with Curaçao. In these preparations the quantity of whisked cream should be twice as much as for ordinary Bavarois, whereas the quantity of gelatine should be reduced by half.

Set these preparations in even, alternate layers, in a slightly-oiled iced-Madeleine mould, distributing themeringuesbetween each layer.

Cover the mould with a piece of paper and a lid, and keep it surrounded by ice for two hours. When about to serve, turn it out on a napkin.


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