OMELETS.Sweet omelets may be divided into four distinct classes, whichare:—1. Liqueur omelets.2. Jam omelets.3. Souffléd omelets.4. Surprise omelets.Omelets with Liqueur.2462—Example: OMELET WITH RUMSeason the omelet with sugar and a little salt, and cook it in the usual way. Set it on a long dish, sprinkle it with sugar and heated rum, and set a light to it on bringing it to the table.Jam Omelets.2463—Example: APRICOT OMELETSeason the omelet as above, and, when about to roll it up, garnish it inside with two tablespoonfuls of apricot jam per six eggs. Set on a long dish; sprinkle with icing sugar, and either criss-cross the surface with a red-hot iron or glaze the omelet at the salamander.2464—XMAS OMELETBeat the eggs with salt and sugar and add, per six eggs: two tablespoonfuls of cream, a pinch of orange or lemon rind, and one tablespoonful of rum. When about to roll up the omelet, garnish it copiously with mincemeat, set it on a long dish; sprinkle it with heated rum, and set it alight at the table.Souffléd Omelets.2465—Example: SOUFFLÉD OMELET WITH VANILLAMix eight oz. of sugar and eight egg-yolks in a basin, until the mixture has whitened slightly, and draws up in ribbons when the spatula is pulled out of it. Add ten egg-whites, beaten to a very stiff froth, and mix the two preparations gently; cutting and raising the whole with the spoon.Set this preparation on a long, buttered and sugar-dusted dish, in the shape of an oval mound, and take care to put some of it aside in a piping-bag.[727]Smooth it all round with the blade of a knife; decorate according to fancy with the contents of the piping-bag, and cook in a good, moderate oven, for as long as the size of the omelet requires.Two minutes before withdrawing it from the oven, sprinkle it with icing sugar, that the latter, when melted, may cover the omelet with a brilliant coat.Flavour according to fancy, with vanilla, orange or lemon rind, rum, Kirsch, &c.; but remember to add the selected flavour to the preparation before the egg-whites are added to it.Surprise Omelets.2466—Example: NORWEGIAN OMELETPlace an oval cushion one and one half in. thick ofGénoiseupon a long dish, and let the cushion be as long as the desired omelet. Upon this cushion set a pyramid of ice-cream with fruit. Cover the ice-cream with ordinary meringue (No.2382); smooth it with a knife, making it of an even thickness of two-thirds of an inch in so doing; decorate it, by means of the piping-bag, with the same meringue, and set in a very hot oven, that the meringue may cook and colour quickly, without the heat reaching the ice inside.2467—SURPRISE OMELET MYLORDProceed as directed above; but garnish the cushion ofGénoisewith coats of vanilla ice-cream, alternated with coats of stewed pears. Cover withmeringueand cook in the same way.2468—CHINESE SURPRISE OMELETThe procedure is the same, but the vanilla ice-cream is replaced by tangerine ice. On taking the omelet out of the oven, surround it with tangerines glazed with sugar, cooked to thelarge-crackstage.2469—SURPRISE OMELET WITH CHERRIESGarnish the cushion ofGénoisewith red-currant ice, flavoured with raspberries and mixed with equal quantities of cherry ice and half-sugared cherries, macerated in Kirsch.Finish it like the Norwegian Omelet.On taking it out of the oven, surround the omelet with drained cherries, preserved in brandy, and sprinkle it with heated Kirsch, to which set a light at the table.[728]2470—SURPRISE OMELET MILADY: also called MILADY PEACHThis is a surprise omelet, garnished with very firm raspberry ice, in which are incrusted a circle of fine peaches, poached in vanilla.The whole is then covered withItalian meringue, flavoured with Maraschino, and laid in suchwise that those portions of the peaches which project from the glaze remain bare.Decorate the surface of the omelet with the same meringue; sprinkle it with icing sugar, and set it to a glaze quickly.2471—SURPRISE OMELET “A LA NAPOLITAINE” otherwise “BOMBE VESUVE”Garnish the cushion ofGénoisewith coats of vanilla and strawberry ice, alternated with layers of broken candied-chestnut. Cover the whole withItalian meringueprepared with Kirsch, which keep flat and somewhat thick towards the centre. On top, set abarquetteof a size in proportion to the omelet, made by means of the piping-bag with ordinarymeringueand baked in the oven without colouration. Decorate withItalian meringue, covering thebarquettein so doing, and quickly brown the omelet in the oven. When about to serve, garnish the omelet with Jubilee cherries (No.2566), which set alight at the last moment.2472—SURPRISE OMELET ELIZABETHGarnish the cushion ofGénoisewith vanilla ice and crystallised-violets.Cover it withmeringue; decorate its surface with crystallised-violets, and treat the omelet as in No.2466.When about to serve it, cover the omelet with a veil of spun sugar.2473—SURPRISE OMELET “A L’ISLANDAISE”Make the cushion ofGénoiseround instead of oval; set it on a round dish, and garnish it with some sort of ice, which should be shaped like a truncated cone. Cover withmeringue; set a small case on the top, made frommeringue, as explained under No.2471, but round instead of oval; conceal all but its inside withmeringue, decorating the omelet in so doing, and set to brown quickly.When about to serve, pour a glassful of heated rum into themeringuecase and set it alight.2474—SYLPHS’ OMELETDip a freshly-cooked savarin into a syrup of maraschino, and stick it on a base of dry paste exactly equal in size.[729]In the centre of the savarin set a cushion ofGénoisesufficiently thick to reach half-way up the former.At the last moment, turn out upon this cushion an iced strawberrymousse, made in an icedmadeleine-mould, the diameter of which should be that of the bore of the savarin. Cover themoussewith a coat ofItalian meringuewith kirsch, shaping it like a cone of which the base rests upon the top of the savarin.By means of a piping-bag, fitted with a small pipe, quickly decorate the cone, as also the savarin, with the same meringue; colour it in the oven, and serve it instantly.2475—VARIOUS SURPRISE OMELETSWith the generic example given this kind of omelets may be indefinitely varied by changing the ice preparation inside.The superficial appearance remains the same, but every change in the inside garnish should be made known in the title of the dish.Pannequets.2476—PANNEQUETS WITH JAMPrepare some very thin pancakes; coat them with some kind of jam, roll them up, trim them aslant at either end, and cut them into two lozenges.Place these lozenges on a tray, sprinkle them with icing sugar, set them to glaze in a fierce oven, and dish them on a napkin.2477—PANNEQUETSA LA CRÈMECoat the pancakes with frangipan cream, and sprinkle the latter with crushed macaroons. For the rest of the procedure follow No.2476.2478—PANNEQUETS MERINGUÉSCoat the pancakes withItalian meringue, flavoured with kirsch and maraschino; roll them up, cut them into lozenges as above, and set them on a tray. Decorate them by means of the piping-bag with the same meringue; sprinkle them with icing sugar, and set them to colour quickly in the oven.2479—PUDDINGSEnglish puddings are almost innumerable; but many of them lie more within the pastrycook’s than the cook’s province, and their enumeration here could not serve a very useful purpose. The name Pudding is, moreover, applied to a whole host of preparations which are really nothing more than custards—as, for example, “custard pudding.” If both of the foregoing kinds of puddings be passed over, puddings proper which belong to hot sweets may be divided into eight classes, of which I shall first give the generic recipes, from[730]which all pudding entremets given hereafter are derived. The eight classesare:—(1) Puddings with cream.(2) Fruit puddings.(3) English fruit puddings.(4) Plum puddings.(5) French and German bread puddings.(6) English and French paste puddings.(7) Rice puddings.(8) Souffléd puddings.Puddings allow of various accompanying sauces, which will be given in each recipe. The majority of English puddings may be accompanied by stewed fruit, Melba sauce, or whipped cream “à la Chantilly.”Puddings with Cream.2480—ALMOND PUDDINGMake a preparation for souffléd pudding (No.2505), moistened with almond milk. Pour it into copiously-buttered moulds, sprinkled inside with splintered and grilled almonds.Set to poach in thebain-marie. As an accompaniment serve a sabayon prepared with white wine and flavoured withorgeat.2481—ENGLISH ALMOND PUDDINGMix to the consistence of a pomade four oz. of butter and five oz. of powdered sugar; add eight oz. of finely-chopped almonds, a pinch of table salt, a half table-spoonful of orange-flower water, two eggs, two egg-yolks, and one-sixth pint of cream. Pour this preparation into a buttered pie-dish, and cook in abain-mariein the oven.N.B.—English puddings of what kind soever are served in the dishes or basins in which they have cooked.2482—BISCUIT PUDDINGCrush eight oz. of lady’s-finger biscuits in a saucepan, and moisten them with one pint of boiling milk containing five oz. of sugar. Stir the whole over the fire, and add five oz. of candied fruit, cut into dice and mixed with currants (both products having been macerated in kirsch), three egg-yolks, four oz. of melted butter, and the white of five eggs beaten to a stiff froth.Set to poach in abain-marie, in a low, even Charlotte mould, or in a pie-dish, and serve an apricot sauce at the same time.2483—CABINET PUDDINGGarnish a buttered cylinder-mould with lady’s-finger biscuits or slices of buttered biscuit, saturated with some kind of liqueur;[731]arranging them in alternate layers with asalpiconof candied fruit and currants, macerated in liqueur. Here and there spread a little apricot jam.Fill up the mould, little by little, with preparation No.2639, flavoured according to fancy. Poach in abain-marie.Turn out the pudding at the last moment, and coat it with English custard flavoured with vanilla.2484—FRUIT PUDDINGThis pudding requires very careful treatment. The custard which serves as its base is the same as that of Cabinet Pudding, except that it is thickened by seven eggs and seven egg-yolks per quart of milk. This preparation is, moreover, combined with a purée of fruit suited to the pudding.Procedure: Butter a mould; set it in abain-marie, and pour a few table-spoonfuls of the above preparation into it. Let it set, and upon this set custard sprinkle a layer of suitable fruit, sliced. This fruit may be apricots, peaches, pears, etc. Cover the fruit with a fresh coat of custard, but more copiously than in the first case; let this custard set as before; cover it with fruit, and proceed in the same order until the mould is full.It is, in short, another form of aspic-jelly preparation, but hot instead of cold. If the solidification of the layers of custard were not ensured, the fruit would fall to the bottom of the mould instead of remaining distributed between the layers of custard, and the result would be the collapse of the pudding as soon as it was turned out.Continue the cooking in thebain-marie; let the preparation stand a few minutes before turning it out, and serve at the same time a sauce made from the same fruit as that used for the pudding.English Fruit Puddings.2485—APPLE PUDDINGPrepare a suet paste from one lb. of flour, ten oz. of finely-chopped suet, quarter of a pint of water and a pinch of salt.Let the paste rest for an hour, and roll it out to a thickness of one-third of an inch.With this layer of paste, line a well-buttered dome-mould or large pudding-basin. Garnish with sliced apples mixed with powdered sugar and flavoured with a chopped piece of lemon peel.Close the mould with a well-sealed-down layer of paste; wrap the mould in a piece of linen, which should be firmly fastened with string; plunge it into a saucepan containing boiling water, and in[732]the case of a quart pudding-basin or mould, let it cook for about three hours.N.B.—This pudding may be made with other fleshy fruit, as also with certain vegetables such as the pumpkin, etc.2486—PLUM PUDDINGPut into a basin one lb. of chopped suet; one lb. of bread-crumb; half lb. of flour; half lb. of peeled and chopped apples; half lb. each of Malaga raisins, currants and sultanas; two oz. each of candied orange, lemon and cedrat rinds, cut into small dice; two oz. of ginger; four oz. of chopped almonds; eight oz. of powdered sugar; the juice and the chopped rind of half an orange and half a lemon; one-third oz. of mixed spices, containing a large quantity of cinnamon; three eggs; quarter of a pint of rum or brandy, and one-third of a pint of stout. The fruit should, if possible, have previously macerated in liqueur for a long time.Thoroughly mix the whole.Pour the preparation into white earthenware pudding-basins, with projecting rims; press it into them, and then wrap them in a buttered and flour-dusted cloth which tie into a knot on top.Cook in boiling water or in steam for four hours.When about to serve, sprinkle the puddings with heated brandy or rum, and set them alight, or accompany them, either with a sabayon with rum, with Brandy Butter (as directed under “Gil-Blas pancakes” but without sugar), or with an English custard thickened with arrowroot.2487—AMERICAN PUDDINGPut into a basin two and a half oz. of bread-crumb; three oz. of powdered sugar; three oz. of flour; two and a half oz. of marrow and an equal quantity of suet (both chopped); three oz. of candied fruit cut into dice; one egg and three egg-yolks, a pinch of chopped orange or lemonzest; a little nutmeg and cinnamon, and a liqueur-glassful of brandy or rum.Mix up the whole; pour the preparation into a buttered and dredged mould or basin, and cook in thebain-marie.Serve a sabayon with rum at the same time.2488—MARROW PUDDINGMelt half a lb. of beef-marrow and two oz. of suet, in abain-marie, and let it get tepid. Then work this grease in a basin with half a lb. of powdered sugar; three oz. of bread-crumbs, dipped in milk and pressed; three whole eggs and eight egg-yolks; half a lb. of candied fruit, cut into dice; three oz. of sultanas and two oz. of pipped, Malaga raisins.[733]Pour this preparation into an even, deep, buttered and dredged border-mould; and poach in thebain-marie.Serve a sabayon with rum at the same time.Bread Puddings.2489—ENGLISH BREAD PUDDINGButter some thin slices of crumb of bread and distribute over them some currants and sultanas, swelled in tepid water and well drained. Set these slices in a pie-dish; cover with preparation No.2638, and poach in front of the oven.2490—FRENCH BREAD PUDDINGSoak two-thirds of a lb. of white bread-crumb in one and three-quarter pints of boiled milk, flavoured with vanilla and containing eight oz. of sugar. Rub through a sieve and add: four whole eggs, six egg-yolks, and four egg-whites, beaten to a stiff froth.Pour this preparation into a deep, buttered border-mould, dusted with bread-crumbs; and poach inbain-marie.As an accompaniment, serve either an English custard, a vanilla-flavoured sabayon, or a fruit sauce.2491—GERMAN BREAD PUDDINGSoak two-thirds of a lb. of brown bread-crumb in one and three quarter pints of Rhine wine, Moselle or beer, containing half a lb. of moist sugar and a little cinnamon. Rub through a sieve and add four eggs, six egg-yolks, five oz. of melted butter, and the whites of four eggs beaten to a froth. Poach in abain-marieas in the preceding case. The adjunct to this pudding is invariably a fruit syrup.2492—SCOTCH BREAD PUDDINGProceed exactly as for No.2490, but add five oz. of sliced seasonable fruit. Mould and poach in the same way, and serve a red-currant sauce flavoured with raspberries, as an accompaniment.Paste Puddings.2493—TAPIOCASprinkle eight oz. of tapioca into one and three-quarter pints of boiling milk, containing four oz. of sugar, a pinch of salt and three oz. of butter.Cook in the oven for twenty minutes; transfer the preparation to another saucepan, and add to it six egg-yolks, two and a half oz. of butter, and the whites of four eggs beaten to a stiff froth.Pour the whole into a well-buttered cylinder-mould, sprinkled with tapioca, and poach in thebain-marieuntil the preparation[734]seems resilient to the touch. Let the pudding stand for seven or eight minutes before turning it out. Serve an English custard, a sabayon or a fruit sauce as accompaniment.2494—SAGO PUDDINGProceed as above, but substitute sago for the tapioca, and sprinkle the inside of the mould with sago. The treatment and adjuncts are the same.2495—SEMOLINA PUDDINGProceed as for No.2493, but use semolina instead of tapioca, and sprinkle the mould with granulated semolina.2496—VERMICELLI PUDDINGProceed as for No.2493, but use vermicelli, and sprinkle the mould with bits of vermicelli, which should not be broken up overmuch.2497—FRESH-NOODLE PUDDINGProceed in exactly the same way as for No.2493.2498—ENGLISH TAPIOCA, SAGO, AND SEMOLINAPUDDINGS, ETC.Whatever be the paste used, it should be cooked in very slightly-sugared milk, flavoured according to fancy, and in the quantities given above. Thicken by means of two eggs per pint of the preparation; pour the whole into a buttered pie-dish, and cook in the oven in abain-marie.N.B.—All English puddings of this class are made in the same way, and, as already stated, are served in the dish in which they have cooked.2499—BRAZILIAN PUDDINGMake the preparation for tapioca pudding and pour it into a mould,clothedwith sugar cooked to thecaramelstage.Poach in abain-marieand serve plain.2500—CHEVREUSE PUDDINGThis is semolina pudding served with a Sabayon, flavoured with kirsch.2501—RICE PUDDINGPrepare the rice as directed under No.2404, and mix with it (per lb. of raw rice) the whites of fifteen eggs beaten to a stiff froth. Mould in buttered moulds sprinkled with raspings.The cooking and the adjuncts are the same as for Nos.2493,2494, etc.[735]2502—ENGLISH RICE PUDDINGThe quantities for this pudding are: six oz. of rice, one quart of milk (flavoured according to fancy), two oz. of sugar and three oz. of butter. The grains of rice should be kept somewhat firm, but the whole should be rather liquid. Thicken with three eggs; cook the preparation in the oven, in a pie-dish; and on taking the pudding out of the oven sprinkle its surface with icing sugar.2503—RICE AND CHOCOLATE PUDDINGAdd two oz. of chocolate to every lb. of the preparation of rice, made after No.2404, and combine therewith the whites of three eggs beaten to a fairly stiff froth; pour the preparation into a buttered pie-dish, and cook in the oven.Serve some chocolate custard (combined with its bulk of whisked cream) separately.N.B.—This sweet may be served hot or cold.Souffléd Puddings.2504—SAXON PUDDINGWork four oz. of butter to a pomade in a basin. Add four oz. of powdered sugar and four oz. of sifted flour, and dilute with two-thirds pint of boiled milk.Boil this preparation, stirring it the while; and dry it over a fierce fire as in the case of a panada for a “Pâte à choux.”Take off the fire; thicken with five egg-yolks; and then carefully mix with it the five whites beaten to a stiff froth. Pour into well-buttered moulds, and poach in abain-marie.As an accompaniment serve an English custard or a Sabayon, flavoured according to fancy.2505—ALMOND SOUFFLÉDPUDDINGMake a preparation as for No.2504, but use almond milk instead of cow’s milk. Pour the preparation into buttered moulds, sprinkled with splintered and grilled almonds, and poach in abain-marie.As an accompaniment serve a white-wine Sabayon flavoured withorgeat.2506—SOUFFLÉD PUDDING, DENISEFinely pound four oz. of freshly-washed and peeled almonds, and add thereto, from time to time, a few drops of fresh water. When the almonds form a smooth paste, add the necessary quantity of water to them to produce one pint of milk. Strain through muslin and slightly twist the latter in order to express all the contained liquid.[736]With this almond milk, dilute three oz. of flour and three oz. of rice cream, mixed in a saucepan, and take care that no lumps form. Strain the whole through a strainer, and add five oz. of sugar, three oz. of butter and a little salt.Set the saucepan on the fire; boil, stirring the while, and then stir briskly with a spatula until the preparation acquires the consistence of a thick paste and falls from the spatula without leaving any adhering portions. Pour this paste into a basin and combine therewith: first, little by little, two oz. of fresh butter; then, eight egg-yolks, two ounces of finely-pounded almonds moistened with a tablespoonful of kirsch and as much maraschino, and the whites of five eggs beaten to a stiff froth.This pudding is cooked in abain-mariein one of the following ways:(1) In a buttered pie dish. In this case, on taking the pudding out of thebain-marie, sprinkle its surface with icing sugar, and criss-cross it with a red-hot iron.(2) In a shallow, buttered and dredged, Charlotte-mould.(3) In fairly shallow, buttered dome-moulds, lined inside with roundels one inch in diameter, stamped (by means of a fancy-cutter) out of a layer ofGénoiseor a layer of “lady’s-finger-biscuit” preparation, about one-third of an inch thick.In the two last cases, the pudding is coated with an apricot sauce, mixed with almond milk, and a sauceboat of the same sauce is served separately.2507—LEMON SOUFFLÉD PUDDINGMake the preparation for No.2504, and flavour it with a piece of lemon rind. The treatment is the same.Serve an English custard, flavoured with lemon separately.2508—ORANGE, CURAÇAO, ANISETTE, AND BÉNÉDICTINEPUDDINGS, ETC.For all these puddings the procedure is the same as for No.2504, and only the flavour changes.Accompany each with an English custard, flavoured like the particular pudding.2509—INDIAN SOUFFLÉD PUDDINGTake some souffléd-pudding preparation and add to it two oz. of powdered ginger, and five oz. of candied ginger, cut into dice. Proceed in the same way as for No.2504.As an accompaniment, serve an English custard flavoured with ginger.[737]2510—CHESTNUT SOUFFLÉD PUDDINGCook two lbs. of peeled chestnuts in a light, vanilla-flavoured syrup.Rub them through a sieve, add five oz. of powdered sugar and three oz. of butter to the purée, and dry it over a fierce fire. Thicken it with eight egg-yolks and finish it with the whites of six eggs, beaten to a stiff froth.Poach in buttered moulds in abain-marie.As an accompaniment, serve, either an English custard, or a vanilla-flavoured apricot syrup.2511—MOUSSELINE PUDDINGWork four oz. of butter and four oz. of powdered sugar to a pomade, and add the yolks of ten eggs, one by one; meanwhile stirring the preparation.Set the latter on a moderate fire until it veneers the withdrawn spoon; then immediately add the whites of seven eggs beaten to a stiff froth.Pour the whole into a deep, buttered border-mould, which only half fill, in view of the subsequent expansion of the preparation while cooking.Poach in abain-mariefor about thirty minutes, and let the pudding stand for ten minutes before turning it out.As an accompaniment serve a light Sabayon or a fruit sauce.2512—SOUFFLÉD PUDDINGA LA RÉGENCEMake asouffléd-pudding preparation flavoured with vanilla, and poach it in abain-marie, in a mouldclothedwith sugar cooked to thecaramelstage. Serve an English custard, prepared with caramel, separately.2513—SOUFFLÉD PUDDINGA LA REINETake some vanilla-flavoured,souffléd-pudding preparation. Take a mould with a central tube; butter it, and besprinkle it with chopped pistachios and crushed macaroons. Set the preparation in the mould in layers, alternated by coats of chopped pistachios and crushed macaroons; and poach in abain-marie.As an accompaniment serve an English custard combined withpralin.2514—SOUFFLÉD PUDDINGA LA ROYALELine the bottom and sides of a buttered Charlotte-mould with thin slices of biscuit spread with jam and rolled up. Garnish the mould with asouffléd-pudding preparation, and poach in abain-marie.Serve an apricot sauce flavoured with Marsala, separately.[738]2515—SOUFFLÉDPUDDING SANS-SOUCICopiously butter a mould, and sprinkle its bottom and sides with well-washed currants. Garnish with asouffléd-pudding preparation, combined per two lbs. with one lb. of peeled apples, cut into dice and cooked in butter.Poach in abain-marie.2516—SOUFFLÉDPUDDINGA LA VESUVIENNEMake asouffléd-pudding preparation, and add to it for the quantities given in the original recipe one and a half oz. of tomato jam and the same quantity of pipped Malaga raisins. Poach in abain-mariein a mould with a central tube.When the pudding is turned out, surround it with apricot sauce, and pour in the middle some heated rum, which light when serving.2517—ROLY-POLY PUDDINGProceed as for No.2361: prepare a firm paste from one lb. of flour, nine oz. of chopped suet, one and a half oz. of sugar, a pinch of salt, and one-sixth pint of water. Let this paste rest for one hour before using it.Roll it out to the shape of a rectangle one-fifth of an inch thick; spread a layer of jam upon it, and roll it up like a Swiss roll.Wrap it in a buttered and dredged cloth, and cook it in boiling water or in steam for one and a half hours.When about to serve, cut the roll into roundels half an inch thick, and dish them in a crown. As an accompaniment serve a fruit sauce.2518—RISSOLESThe preparation of rissoles for sweets is the same as that for rissoles served as hors-d’œuvres, except that the former are garnished with marmalade or jam, with a fruitsalpiconor with stewed fruit, with plain orpralinedcreams, etc.The best paste for the purpose is derived from puff-paste trimmings.The shape of rissoles varies very much. They may be shaped like half-moons, purses, small, round or oval patties, etc.Rissoles for entremets are also frequently made from ordinary brioche paste, and constitute a variety of Viennese fritters. In this case they are invariably mentioned on the menu as “à la Dauphine.”[739]2519—SOUFFLÉSAlthoughsoufflésare generally served unaccompanied, some stewed, seasonable fruit, or amacédoineof fresh fruit, may, nevertheless, be served with them. This, of course, only applies tosouffléswith a fruit base.I have already given the formulæ forsoufflés(No.2405); I need now, therefore, only give the peculiarities of each particularsoufflé.2520—FRUIT SOUFFLÉIN A CROUSTADELine a round, shallow, well-buttered,croustade-mould with a very thin layer of sugared paste. Spread some vanilla-flavoured, stewed apples on the bottom, and upon it lay a garnish of various seasonable fresh stewed fruits—quartered if large. The mould ought now to be half-filled.Fill it up with a vanilla-flavouredsoufflépreparation, and cook it in a moderate oven for about twenty-five minutes.On withdrawing it from the oven, carefully turn it out on a dish; pour a few tablespoonfuls of heated rum into the latter, and set a light to it when serving.2521—ALMOND SOUFFLÉMake a preparation ofsouffléwith cream, but use almond milk instead of cow’s milk, add one and a half oz. of slightly-grilled, chopped almonds, per half pint of almond milk. Dish and cook in the usual way.2522—SOUFFLÉ WITH FRESH ALMONDSProceed exactly as above, but use fresh splintered almonds instead of grilled, chopped ones.2523—SOUFFLÉ WITH FILBERTMake thesoufflépreparation from milk in which two oz. of filbertpralinper one-sixth pint have previously been infused.Dish and cook thesouffléin the usual way.2524—SOUFFLÉA LA CAMARGOMake asoufflépreparation of tangerines, and another of filberts as above. Dish the two preparations in layers, alternated by “lady’s-finger biscuits,” saturated with Curaçao liqueur.2525—PAULETTE SOUFFLÉTake vanilla-flavoured,soufflépreparation, thickened somewhat more than the ordinary kind, and add to it five tablespoonfuls of strawberry purée. Serve some well-cooled strawberries, coated with raspberry purée, separately.2526—CHERRY SOUFFLÉPrepare asouffléwith Kirsch, accompany it with some stewed stoned cherries, covered with a raspberry purée.[740]2527—STRAWBERRY SOUFFLÉThis is asouffléwith Kirsch, accompanied by iced strawberries macerated in orange juice.2528—POMEGRANATE SOUFFLÉ “A L’ORIENTALE”Make asoufflépreparation, slightly flavoured with vanilla. Dish it in layers in a timbale, alternated by “lady’s-finger biscuits” saturated with Grenadine and Kirsch. On withdrawing thesouffléfrom the oven, cover it with a veil of spun sugar, and sprinkle the latter with small sweets, flavoured with Grenadine, in imitation of pomegranate seeds.2529—JAVA SOUFFLÉMake thesoufflépreparation, but use tea instead of milk, and add thereto one and a half oz. of chopped pistachios per one-sixth pint of the tea.2530—LÉRINASOUFFLÉTake some ordinarysoufflépreparation, flavoured with Lérina liqueur, which is a kind of Chartreuse, made in the Lérins islands.2531—SOUFFLÉ WITH LIQUEURThissoufflémay be made, either from thesouffléwith cream preparation or from that with fruit, given in the note.Thesoufflésmade from cream are flavoured with such liqueurs as rum, curaçao, anisette, vanilla, etc.Those made from fruit are flavoured with Kirsch, Kümmel, etc.2532—LUCULLUS SOUFFLÉSet a savarin, saturated with Kirsch-flavoured syrup, upon a dish, and surround it with a band of paper, tied on with string, in order to prevent thesouffléfrom drying during the cooking process.Make asoufflépreparation with a fruit base, set it in the centre of the savarin, and cook it in the usual way.2533—HILDA SOUFFLÉThis is a lemonsoufflé, accompanied by fine strawberries, well cooled and coated with a purée of fresh raspberries.2534—SOUFFLÉ “A LA D’ORLÉANS”Take some creamsoufflé-preparation, combined with pieces of Jeanne-d’Arc biscuits (a kind of Rheims biscuit), saturated with peach liqueur and Kirsch, and one oz. each of half-sugared cherries and angelica, cut into dice.[741]2535—SOUFFLÉ PALMYRETake some vanilla-flavouredsoufflépreparation. Set it in a timbale, in layers alternated by lady’s-finger biscuits saturated with anisette and Kirsch. Cook in the usual way.2536—SOUFFLÉ PRALINETake some vanilla-flavouredsoufflépreparation; add to it two ounces of almondpralinwhich should have previously infused in milk. When thesouffléis dished, sprinkle its surface with grilled chopped almonds, or crushed, burnt almonds.2537—ROTHSCHILD SOUFFLÉTake some creamsoufflé-preparation, combined with three ounces of candied fruit, cut into dice and macerated in Dantzig brandy, containing plenty of gold spangles.When thesouffléis almost cooked, set on it a border of fine strawberries (in season), or half-sugared, preserved cherries.It should be remembered, however, that the correct procedure demands the use of strawberries in full season.2538—SOUFFLÉA LA ROYALETake some vanilla-flavoured,soufflé-preparation. Dish it in a timbale in alternate layers with lady’s-finger biscuits, saturated with Kirsch; and distribute thereon such fruits as pine-apple, cherries, angelica and grapes—all cut into dice, and previously macerated in Kirsch.2539—VANILLA SOUFFLÉTake some creamsoufflé-preparation, made from milk in which a stick of vanilla has been previously infused.2540—VIOLET SOUFFLÉTake some vanilla-flavouredsoufflépreparation, combined with crushed crystallised violets. When thesouffléis dished, set on it a crown of large crystallised violets, and cook in the usual way.2541—SUBRICSInto one pint of vanilla-flavoured boiled milk, containing three and a half oz. of sugar, drop four oz. of semolina. Add one and a half oz. of butter and a grain of salt; mix thoroughly, and gently cook in the oven under cover for twenty-five minutes.Thicken with six egg-yolks, and spread the preparation in layers two-thirds of an inch thick over a buttered tray. Pass a piece of butter over the surface to prevent its drying, and leave to cool.Then cut up this preparation into rings three inches in diameter.Heat some clarified butter in a frying-pan; set the rings in it; brown them on both sides, and dish them in a circle.[742]Garnish the centre of each ring with a tablespoonful of red-currant jelly, or very firm quince jelly.Timbales.
OMELETS.Sweet omelets may be divided into four distinct classes, whichare:—1. Liqueur omelets.2. Jam omelets.3. Souffléd omelets.4. Surprise omelets.Omelets with Liqueur.2462—Example: OMELET WITH RUMSeason the omelet with sugar and a little salt, and cook it in the usual way. Set it on a long dish, sprinkle it with sugar and heated rum, and set a light to it on bringing it to the table.Jam Omelets.2463—Example: APRICOT OMELETSeason the omelet as above, and, when about to roll it up, garnish it inside with two tablespoonfuls of apricot jam per six eggs. Set on a long dish; sprinkle with icing sugar, and either criss-cross the surface with a red-hot iron or glaze the omelet at the salamander.
Sweet omelets may be divided into four distinct classes, whichare:—
1. Liqueur omelets.2. Jam omelets.3. Souffléd omelets.4. Surprise omelets.
Season the omelet with sugar and a little salt, and cook it in the usual way. Set it on a long dish, sprinkle it with sugar and heated rum, and set a light to it on bringing it to the table.
Season the omelet as above, and, when about to roll it up, garnish it inside with two tablespoonfuls of apricot jam per six eggs. Set on a long dish; sprinkle with icing sugar, and either criss-cross the surface with a red-hot iron or glaze the omelet at the salamander.
Beat the eggs with salt and sugar and add, per six eggs: two tablespoonfuls of cream, a pinch of orange or lemon rind, and one tablespoonful of rum. When about to roll up the omelet, garnish it copiously with mincemeat, set it on a long dish; sprinkle it with heated rum, and set it alight at the table.
Mix eight oz. of sugar and eight egg-yolks in a basin, until the mixture has whitened slightly, and draws up in ribbons when the spatula is pulled out of it. Add ten egg-whites, beaten to a very stiff froth, and mix the two preparations gently; cutting and raising the whole with the spoon.
Set this preparation on a long, buttered and sugar-dusted dish, in the shape of an oval mound, and take care to put some of it aside in a piping-bag.
[727]Smooth it all round with the blade of a knife; decorate according to fancy with the contents of the piping-bag, and cook in a good, moderate oven, for as long as the size of the omelet requires.
Two minutes before withdrawing it from the oven, sprinkle it with icing sugar, that the latter, when melted, may cover the omelet with a brilliant coat.
Flavour according to fancy, with vanilla, orange or lemon rind, rum, Kirsch, &c.; but remember to add the selected flavour to the preparation before the egg-whites are added to it.
Place an oval cushion one and one half in. thick ofGénoiseupon a long dish, and let the cushion be as long as the desired omelet. Upon this cushion set a pyramid of ice-cream with fruit. Cover the ice-cream with ordinary meringue (No.2382); smooth it with a knife, making it of an even thickness of two-thirds of an inch in so doing; decorate it, by means of the piping-bag, with the same meringue, and set in a very hot oven, that the meringue may cook and colour quickly, without the heat reaching the ice inside.
Proceed as directed above; but garnish the cushion ofGénoisewith coats of vanilla ice-cream, alternated with coats of stewed pears. Cover withmeringueand cook in the same way.
The procedure is the same, but the vanilla ice-cream is replaced by tangerine ice. On taking the omelet out of the oven, surround it with tangerines glazed with sugar, cooked to thelarge-crackstage.
Garnish the cushion ofGénoisewith red-currant ice, flavoured with raspberries and mixed with equal quantities of cherry ice and half-sugared cherries, macerated in Kirsch.
Finish it like the Norwegian Omelet.
On taking it out of the oven, surround the omelet with drained cherries, preserved in brandy, and sprinkle it with heated Kirsch, to which set a light at the table.
This is a surprise omelet, garnished with very firm raspberry ice, in which are incrusted a circle of fine peaches, poached in vanilla.
The whole is then covered withItalian meringue, flavoured with Maraschino, and laid in suchwise that those portions of the peaches which project from the glaze remain bare.
Decorate the surface of the omelet with the same meringue; sprinkle it with icing sugar, and set it to a glaze quickly.
Garnish the cushion ofGénoisewith coats of vanilla and strawberry ice, alternated with layers of broken candied-chestnut. Cover the whole withItalian meringueprepared with Kirsch, which keep flat and somewhat thick towards the centre. On top, set abarquetteof a size in proportion to the omelet, made by means of the piping-bag with ordinarymeringueand baked in the oven without colouration. Decorate withItalian meringue, covering thebarquettein so doing, and quickly brown the omelet in the oven. When about to serve, garnish the omelet with Jubilee cherries (No.2566), which set alight at the last moment.
Garnish the cushion ofGénoisewith vanilla ice and crystallised-violets.
Cover it withmeringue; decorate its surface with crystallised-violets, and treat the omelet as in No.2466.
When about to serve it, cover the omelet with a veil of spun sugar.
Make the cushion ofGénoiseround instead of oval; set it on a round dish, and garnish it with some sort of ice, which should be shaped like a truncated cone. Cover withmeringue; set a small case on the top, made frommeringue, as explained under No.2471, but round instead of oval; conceal all but its inside withmeringue, decorating the omelet in so doing, and set to brown quickly.
When about to serve, pour a glassful of heated rum into themeringuecase and set it alight.
Dip a freshly-cooked savarin into a syrup of maraschino, and stick it on a base of dry paste exactly equal in size.
[729]In the centre of the savarin set a cushion ofGénoisesufficiently thick to reach half-way up the former.
At the last moment, turn out upon this cushion an iced strawberrymousse, made in an icedmadeleine-mould, the diameter of which should be that of the bore of the savarin. Cover themoussewith a coat ofItalian meringuewith kirsch, shaping it like a cone of which the base rests upon the top of the savarin.
By means of a piping-bag, fitted with a small pipe, quickly decorate the cone, as also the savarin, with the same meringue; colour it in the oven, and serve it instantly.
With the generic example given this kind of omelets may be indefinitely varied by changing the ice preparation inside.
The superficial appearance remains the same, but every change in the inside garnish should be made known in the title of the dish.
Prepare some very thin pancakes; coat them with some kind of jam, roll them up, trim them aslant at either end, and cut them into two lozenges.
Place these lozenges on a tray, sprinkle them with icing sugar, set them to glaze in a fierce oven, and dish them on a napkin.
Coat the pancakes with frangipan cream, and sprinkle the latter with crushed macaroons. For the rest of the procedure follow No.2476.
Coat the pancakes withItalian meringue, flavoured with kirsch and maraschino; roll them up, cut them into lozenges as above, and set them on a tray. Decorate them by means of the piping-bag with the same meringue; sprinkle them with icing sugar, and set them to colour quickly in the oven.
English puddings are almost innumerable; but many of them lie more within the pastrycook’s than the cook’s province, and their enumeration here could not serve a very useful purpose. The name Pudding is, moreover, applied to a whole host of preparations which are really nothing more than custards—as, for example, “custard pudding.” If both of the foregoing kinds of puddings be passed over, puddings proper which belong to hot sweets may be divided into eight classes, of which I shall first give the generic recipes, from[730]which all pudding entremets given hereafter are derived. The eight classesare:—
Puddings allow of various accompanying sauces, which will be given in each recipe. The majority of English puddings may be accompanied by stewed fruit, Melba sauce, or whipped cream “à la Chantilly.”
Make a preparation for souffléd pudding (No.2505), moistened with almond milk. Pour it into copiously-buttered moulds, sprinkled inside with splintered and grilled almonds.
Set to poach in thebain-marie. As an accompaniment serve a sabayon prepared with white wine and flavoured withorgeat.
Mix to the consistence of a pomade four oz. of butter and five oz. of powdered sugar; add eight oz. of finely-chopped almonds, a pinch of table salt, a half table-spoonful of orange-flower water, two eggs, two egg-yolks, and one-sixth pint of cream. Pour this preparation into a buttered pie-dish, and cook in abain-mariein the oven.
N.B.—English puddings of what kind soever are served in the dishes or basins in which they have cooked.
Crush eight oz. of lady’s-finger biscuits in a saucepan, and moisten them with one pint of boiling milk containing five oz. of sugar. Stir the whole over the fire, and add five oz. of candied fruit, cut into dice and mixed with currants (both products having been macerated in kirsch), three egg-yolks, four oz. of melted butter, and the white of five eggs beaten to a stiff froth.
Set to poach in abain-marie, in a low, even Charlotte mould, or in a pie-dish, and serve an apricot sauce at the same time.
Garnish a buttered cylinder-mould with lady’s-finger biscuits or slices of buttered biscuit, saturated with some kind of liqueur;[731]arranging them in alternate layers with asalpiconof candied fruit and currants, macerated in liqueur. Here and there spread a little apricot jam.
Fill up the mould, little by little, with preparation No.2639, flavoured according to fancy. Poach in abain-marie.
Turn out the pudding at the last moment, and coat it with English custard flavoured with vanilla.
This pudding requires very careful treatment. The custard which serves as its base is the same as that of Cabinet Pudding, except that it is thickened by seven eggs and seven egg-yolks per quart of milk. This preparation is, moreover, combined with a purée of fruit suited to the pudding.
Procedure: Butter a mould; set it in abain-marie, and pour a few table-spoonfuls of the above preparation into it. Let it set, and upon this set custard sprinkle a layer of suitable fruit, sliced. This fruit may be apricots, peaches, pears, etc. Cover the fruit with a fresh coat of custard, but more copiously than in the first case; let this custard set as before; cover it with fruit, and proceed in the same order until the mould is full.
It is, in short, another form of aspic-jelly preparation, but hot instead of cold. If the solidification of the layers of custard were not ensured, the fruit would fall to the bottom of the mould instead of remaining distributed between the layers of custard, and the result would be the collapse of the pudding as soon as it was turned out.
Continue the cooking in thebain-marie; let the preparation stand a few minutes before turning it out, and serve at the same time a sauce made from the same fruit as that used for the pudding.
Prepare a suet paste from one lb. of flour, ten oz. of finely-chopped suet, quarter of a pint of water and a pinch of salt.
Let the paste rest for an hour, and roll it out to a thickness of one-third of an inch.
With this layer of paste, line a well-buttered dome-mould or large pudding-basin. Garnish with sliced apples mixed with powdered sugar and flavoured with a chopped piece of lemon peel.
Close the mould with a well-sealed-down layer of paste; wrap the mould in a piece of linen, which should be firmly fastened with string; plunge it into a saucepan containing boiling water, and in[732]the case of a quart pudding-basin or mould, let it cook for about three hours.
N.B.—This pudding may be made with other fleshy fruit, as also with certain vegetables such as the pumpkin, etc.
Put into a basin one lb. of chopped suet; one lb. of bread-crumb; half lb. of flour; half lb. of peeled and chopped apples; half lb. each of Malaga raisins, currants and sultanas; two oz. each of candied orange, lemon and cedrat rinds, cut into small dice; two oz. of ginger; four oz. of chopped almonds; eight oz. of powdered sugar; the juice and the chopped rind of half an orange and half a lemon; one-third oz. of mixed spices, containing a large quantity of cinnamon; three eggs; quarter of a pint of rum or brandy, and one-third of a pint of stout. The fruit should, if possible, have previously macerated in liqueur for a long time.
Thoroughly mix the whole.
Pour the preparation into white earthenware pudding-basins, with projecting rims; press it into them, and then wrap them in a buttered and flour-dusted cloth which tie into a knot on top.
Cook in boiling water or in steam for four hours.
When about to serve, sprinkle the puddings with heated brandy or rum, and set them alight, or accompany them, either with a sabayon with rum, with Brandy Butter (as directed under “Gil-Blas pancakes” but without sugar), or with an English custard thickened with arrowroot.
Put into a basin two and a half oz. of bread-crumb; three oz. of powdered sugar; three oz. of flour; two and a half oz. of marrow and an equal quantity of suet (both chopped); three oz. of candied fruit cut into dice; one egg and three egg-yolks, a pinch of chopped orange or lemonzest; a little nutmeg and cinnamon, and a liqueur-glassful of brandy or rum.
Mix up the whole; pour the preparation into a buttered and dredged mould or basin, and cook in thebain-marie.
Serve a sabayon with rum at the same time.
Melt half a lb. of beef-marrow and two oz. of suet, in abain-marie, and let it get tepid. Then work this grease in a basin with half a lb. of powdered sugar; three oz. of bread-crumbs, dipped in milk and pressed; three whole eggs and eight egg-yolks; half a lb. of candied fruit, cut into dice; three oz. of sultanas and two oz. of pipped, Malaga raisins.
[733]Pour this preparation into an even, deep, buttered and dredged border-mould; and poach in thebain-marie.
Serve a sabayon with rum at the same time.
Butter some thin slices of crumb of bread and distribute over them some currants and sultanas, swelled in tepid water and well drained. Set these slices in a pie-dish; cover with preparation No.2638, and poach in front of the oven.
Soak two-thirds of a lb. of white bread-crumb in one and three-quarter pints of boiled milk, flavoured with vanilla and containing eight oz. of sugar. Rub through a sieve and add: four whole eggs, six egg-yolks, and four egg-whites, beaten to a stiff froth.
Pour this preparation into a deep, buttered border-mould, dusted with bread-crumbs; and poach inbain-marie.
As an accompaniment, serve either an English custard, a vanilla-flavoured sabayon, or a fruit sauce.
Soak two-thirds of a lb. of brown bread-crumb in one and three quarter pints of Rhine wine, Moselle or beer, containing half a lb. of moist sugar and a little cinnamon. Rub through a sieve and add four eggs, six egg-yolks, five oz. of melted butter, and the whites of four eggs beaten to a froth. Poach in abain-marieas in the preceding case. The adjunct to this pudding is invariably a fruit syrup.
Proceed exactly as for No.2490, but add five oz. of sliced seasonable fruit. Mould and poach in the same way, and serve a red-currant sauce flavoured with raspberries, as an accompaniment.
Sprinkle eight oz. of tapioca into one and three-quarter pints of boiling milk, containing four oz. of sugar, a pinch of salt and three oz. of butter.
Cook in the oven for twenty minutes; transfer the preparation to another saucepan, and add to it six egg-yolks, two and a half oz. of butter, and the whites of four eggs beaten to a stiff froth.
Pour the whole into a well-buttered cylinder-mould, sprinkled with tapioca, and poach in thebain-marieuntil the preparation[734]seems resilient to the touch. Let the pudding stand for seven or eight minutes before turning it out. Serve an English custard, a sabayon or a fruit sauce as accompaniment.
Proceed as above, but substitute sago for the tapioca, and sprinkle the inside of the mould with sago. The treatment and adjuncts are the same.
Proceed as for No.2493, but use semolina instead of tapioca, and sprinkle the mould with granulated semolina.
Proceed as for No.2493, but use vermicelli, and sprinkle the mould with bits of vermicelli, which should not be broken up overmuch.
Proceed in exactly the same way as for No.2493.
Whatever be the paste used, it should be cooked in very slightly-sugared milk, flavoured according to fancy, and in the quantities given above. Thicken by means of two eggs per pint of the preparation; pour the whole into a buttered pie-dish, and cook in the oven in abain-marie.
N.B.—All English puddings of this class are made in the same way, and, as already stated, are served in the dish in which they have cooked.
Make the preparation for tapioca pudding and pour it into a mould,clothedwith sugar cooked to thecaramelstage.
Poach in abain-marieand serve plain.
This is semolina pudding served with a Sabayon, flavoured with kirsch.
Prepare the rice as directed under No.2404, and mix with it (per lb. of raw rice) the whites of fifteen eggs beaten to a stiff froth. Mould in buttered moulds sprinkled with raspings.
The cooking and the adjuncts are the same as for Nos.2493,2494, etc.
The quantities for this pudding are: six oz. of rice, one quart of milk (flavoured according to fancy), two oz. of sugar and three oz. of butter. The grains of rice should be kept somewhat firm, but the whole should be rather liquid. Thicken with three eggs; cook the preparation in the oven, in a pie-dish; and on taking the pudding out of the oven sprinkle its surface with icing sugar.
Add two oz. of chocolate to every lb. of the preparation of rice, made after No.2404, and combine therewith the whites of three eggs beaten to a fairly stiff froth; pour the preparation into a buttered pie-dish, and cook in the oven.
Serve some chocolate custard (combined with its bulk of whisked cream) separately.
N.B.—This sweet may be served hot or cold.
Work four oz. of butter to a pomade in a basin. Add four oz. of powdered sugar and four oz. of sifted flour, and dilute with two-thirds pint of boiled milk.
Boil this preparation, stirring it the while; and dry it over a fierce fire as in the case of a panada for a “Pâte à choux.”
Take off the fire; thicken with five egg-yolks; and then carefully mix with it the five whites beaten to a stiff froth. Pour into well-buttered moulds, and poach in abain-marie.
As an accompaniment serve an English custard or a Sabayon, flavoured according to fancy.
Make a preparation as for No.2504, but use almond milk instead of cow’s milk. Pour the preparation into buttered moulds, sprinkled with splintered and grilled almonds, and poach in abain-marie.
As an accompaniment serve a white-wine Sabayon flavoured withorgeat.
Finely pound four oz. of freshly-washed and peeled almonds, and add thereto, from time to time, a few drops of fresh water. When the almonds form a smooth paste, add the necessary quantity of water to them to produce one pint of milk. Strain through muslin and slightly twist the latter in order to express all the contained liquid.
[736]With this almond milk, dilute three oz. of flour and three oz. of rice cream, mixed in a saucepan, and take care that no lumps form. Strain the whole through a strainer, and add five oz. of sugar, three oz. of butter and a little salt.
Set the saucepan on the fire; boil, stirring the while, and then stir briskly with a spatula until the preparation acquires the consistence of a thick paste and falls from the spatula without leaving any adhering portions. Pour this paste into a basin and combine therewith: first, little by little, two oz. of fresh butter; then, eight egg-yolks, two ounces of finely-pounded almonds moistened with a tablespoonful of kirsch and as much maraschino, and the whites of five eggs beaten to a stiff froth.
This pudding is cooked in abain-mariein one of the following ways:
(1) In a buttered pie dish. In this case, on taking the pudding out of thebain-marie, sprinkle its surface with icing sugar, and criss-cross it with a red-hot iron.
(2) In a shallow, buttered and dredged, Charlotte-mould.
(3) In fairly shallow, buttered dome-moulds, lined inside with roundels one inch in diameter, stamped (by means of a fancy-cutter) out of a layer ofGénoiseor a layer of “lady’s-finger-biscuit” preparation, about one-third of an inch thick.
In the two last cases, the pudding is coated with an apricot sauce, mixed with almond milk, and a sauceboat of the same sauce is served separately.
Make the preparation for No.2504, and flavour it with a piece of lemon rind. The treatment is the same.
Serve an English custard, flavoured with lemon separately.
For all these puddings the procedure is the same as for No.2504, and only the flavour changes.
Accompany each with an English custard, flavoured like the particular pudding.
Take some souffléd-pudding preparation and add to it two oz. of powdered ginger, and five oz. of candied ginger, cut into dice. Proceed in the same way as for No.2504.
As an accompaniment, serve an English custard flavoured with ginger.
Cook two lbs. of peeled chestnuts in a light, vanilla-flavoured syrup.
Rub them through a sieve, add five oz. of powdered sugar and three oz. of butter to the purée, and dry it over a fierce fire. Thicken it with eight egg-yolks and finish it with the whites of six eggs, beaten to a stiff froth.
Poach in buttered moulds in abain-marie.
As an accompaniment, serve, either an English custard, or a vanilla-flavoured apricot syrup.
Work four oz. of butter and four oz. of powdered sugar to a pomade, and add the yolks of ten eggs, one by one; meanwhile stirring the preparation.
Set the latter on a moderate fire until it veneers the withdrawn spoon; then immediately add the whites of seven eggs beaten to a stiff froth.
Pour the whole into a deep, buttered border-mould, which only half fill, in view of the subsequent expansion of the preparation while cooking.
Poach in abain-mariefor about thirty minutes, and let the pudding stand for ten minutes before turning it out.
As an accompaniment serve a light Sabayon or a fruit sauce.
Make asouffléd-pudding preparation flavoured with vanilla, and poach it in abain-marie, in a mouldclothedwith sugar cooked to thecaramelstage. Serve an English custard, prepared with caramel, separately.
Take some vanilla-flavoured,souffléd-pudding preparation. Take a mould with a central tube; butter it, and besprinkle it with chopped pistachios and crushed macaroons. Set the preparation in the mould in layers, alternated by coats of chopped pistachios and crushed macaroons; and poach in abain-marie.
As an accompaniment serve an English custard combined withpralin.
Line the bottom and sides of a buttered Charlotte-mould with thin slices of biscuit spread with jam and rolled up. Garnish the mould with asouffléd-pudding preparation, and poach in abain-marie.
Serve an apricot sauce flavoured with Marsala, separately.
Copiously butter a mould, and sprinkle its bottom and sides with well-washed currants. Garnish with asouffléd-pudding preparation, combined per two lbs. with one lb. of peeled apples, cut into dice and cooked in butter.
Poach in abain-marie.
Make asouffléd-pudding preparation, and add to it for the quantities given in the original recipe one and a half oz. of tomato jam and the same quantity of pipped Malaga raisins. Poach in abain-mariein a mould with a central tube.
When the pudding is turned out, surround it with apricot sauce, and pour in the middle some heated rum, which light when serving.
Proceed as for No.2361: prepare a firm paste from one lb. of flour, nine oz. of chopped suet, one and a half oz. of sugar, a pinch of salt, and one-sixth pint of water. Let this paste rest for one hour before using it.
Roll it out to the shape of a rectangle one-fifth of an inch thick; spread a layer of jam upon it, and roll it up like a Swiss roll.
Wrap it in a buttered and dredged cloth, and cook it in boiling water or in steam for one and a half hours.
When about to serve, cut the roll into roundels half an inch thick, and dish them in a crown. As an accompaniment serve a fruit sauce.
The preparation of rissoles for sweets is the same as that for rissoles served as hors-d’œuvres, except that the former are garnished with marmalade or jam, with a fruitsalpiconor with stewed fruit, with plain orpralinedcreams, etc.
The best paste for the purpose is derived from puff-paste trimmings.
The shape of rissoles varies very much. They may be shaped like half-moons, purses, small, round or oval patties, etc.
Rissoles for entremets are also frequently made from ordinary brioche paste, and constitute a variety of Viennese fritters. In this case they are invariably mentioned on the menu as “à la Dauphine.”
Althoughsoufflésare generally served unaccompanied, some stewed, seasonable fruit, or amacédoineof fresh fruit, may, nevertheless, be served with them. This, of course, only applies tosouffléswith a fruit base.
I have already given the formulæ forsoufflés(No.2405); I need now, therefore, only give the peculiarities of each particularsoufflé.
Line a round, shallow, well-buttered,croustade-mould with a very thin layer of sugared paste. Spread some vanilla-flavoured, stewed apples on the bottom, and upon it lay a garnish of various seasonable fresh stewed fruits—quartered if large. The mould ought now to be half-filled.
Fill it up with a vanilla-flavouredsoufflépreparation, and cook it in a moderate oven for about twenty-five minutes.
On withdrawing it from the oven, carefully turn it out on a dish; pour a few tablespoonfuls of heated rum into the latter, and set a light to it when serving.
Make a preparation ofsouffléwith cream, but use almond milk instead of cow’s milk, add one and a half oz. of slightly-grilled, chopped almonds, per half pint of almond milk. Dish and cook in the usual way.
Proceed exactly as above, but use fresh splintered almonds instead of grilled, chopped ones.
Make thesoufflépreparation from milk in which two oz. of filbertpralinper one-sixth pint have previously been infused.
Dish and cook thesouffléin the usual way.
Make asoufflépreparation of tangerines, and another of filberts as above. Dish the two preparations in layers, alternated by “lady’s-finger biscuits,” saturated with Curaçao liqueur.
Take vanilla-flavoured,soufflépreparation, thickened somewhat more than the ordinary kind, and add to it five tablespoonfuls of strawberry purée. Serve some well-cooled strawberries, coated with raspberry purée, separately.
Prepare asouffléwith Kirsch, accompany it with some stewed stoned cherries, covered with a raspberry purée.
This is asouffléwith Kirsch, accompanied by iced strawberries macerated in orange juice.
Make asoufflépreparation, slightly flavoured with vanilla. Dish it in layers in a timbale, alternated by “lady’s-finger biscuits” saturated with Grenadine and Kirsch. On withdrawing thesouffléfrom the oven, cover it with a veil of spun sugar, and sprinkle the latter with small sweets, flavoured with Grenadine, in imitation of pomegranate seeds.
Make thesoufflépreparation, but use tea instead of milk, and add thereto one and a half oz. of chopped pistachios per one-sixth pint of the tea.
Take some ordinarysoufflépreparation, flavoured with Lérina liqueur, which is a kind of Chartreuse, made in the Lérins islands.
Thissoufflémay be made, either from thesouffléwith cream preparation or from that with fruit, given in the note.
Thesoufflésmade from cream are flavoured with such liqueurs as rum, curaçao, anisette, vanilla, etc.
Those made from fruit are flavoured with Kirsch, Kümmel, etc.
Set a savarin, saturated with Kirsch-flavoured syrup, upon a dish, and surround it with a band of paper, tied on with string, in order to prevent thesouffléfrom drying during the cooking process.
Make asoufflépreparation with a fruit base, set it in the centre of the savarin, and cook it in the usual way.
This is a lemonsoufflé, accompanied by fine strawberries, well cooled and coated with a purée of fresh raspberries.
Take some creamsoufflé-preparation, combined with pieces of Jeanne-d’Arc biscuits (a kind of Rheims biscuit), saturated with peach liqueur and Kirsch, and one oz. each of half-sugared cherries and angelica, cut into dice.
Take some vanilla-flavouredsoufflépreparation. Set it in a timbale, in layers alternated by lady’s-finger biscuits saturated with anisette and Kirsch. Cook in the usual way.
Take some vanilla-flavouredsoufflépreparation; add to it two ounces of almondpralinwhich should have previously infused in milk. When thesouffléis dished, sprinkle its surface with grilled chopped almonds, or crushed, burnt almonds.
Take some creamsoufflé-preparation, combined with three ounces of candied fruit, cut into dice and macerated in Dantzig brandy, containing plenty of gold spangles.
When thesouffléis almost cooked, set on it a border of fine strawberries (in season), or half-sugared, preserved cherries.
It should be remembered, however, that the correct procedure demands the use of strawberries in full season.
Take some vanilla-flavoured,soufflé-preparation. Dish it in a timbale in alternate layers with lady’s-finger biscuits, saturated with Kirsch; and distribute thereon such fruits as pine-apple, cherries, angelica and grapes—all cut into dice, and previously macerated in Kirsch.
Take some creamsoufflé-preparation, made from milk in which a stick of vanilla has been previously infused.
Take some vanilla-flavouredsoufflépreparation, combined with crushed crystallised violets. When thesouffléis dished, set on it a crown of large crystallised violets, and cook in the usual way.
Into one pint of vanilla-flavoured boiled milk, containing three and a half oz. of sugar, drop four oz. of semolina. Add one and a half oz. of butter and a grain of salt; mix thoroughly, and gently cook in the oven under cover for twenty-five minutes.
Thicken with six egg-yolks, and spread the preparation in layers two-thirds of an inch thick over a buttered tray. Pass a piece of butter over the surface to prevent its drying, and leave to cool.
Then cut up this preparation into rings three inches in diameter.
Heat some clarified butter in a frying-pan; set the rings in it; brown them on both sides, and dish them in a circle.[742]Garnish the centre of each ring with a tablespoonful of red-currant jelly, or very firm quince jelly.