Various Preparations of Fowl1652—ABATIS AUX NAVETSFry one-half lb. ofblanchedbreast of pork, cut into dice, in butter. Drain, and fry in the same sautépan three lbs. of giblets, cut into pieces (all except the livers, which are only added one-quarter hour before dishing). Sprinkle with two and one-half oz. of flour; mix the latter with the pieces, and cook it in the oven for seven or eight minutes; moisten with three pints of white stock. Season with a pinch of pepper; add a faggot and a crushed, garlic clove; set to boil, stirring the while; cover, and place in a somewhat hot oven, that the preparation may boil gently.[523]At the end of thirty-five minutes transfer the pieces to another saucepan; put back the bacon; add twenty-four small onions, tossed in butter, one lb. of turnips shaped like elongated olives and glazed, and strain the sauce over the whole.Complete the cooking gently, and serve in a timbale.N.B.—With the same procedure, the giblets may be prepared with peas; with mixed, new vegetables; à lachipolata, &c.1653—GIBLET PIEFry the giblets, cut into pieces, in butter; sprinkle them moderately with flour; cook the latter, and moisten with just sufficient consommé to make a clear sauce which will just cover the pieces. Three-parts cook, and leave to cool.This done, pour the whole into a pie-dish; cover with a layer of puff-paste, which should be sealed down to a strip of paste, stuck to the edge of the dish;gild; streak, and bake in a moderately warm oven for from twenty-five to thirty minutes.1654—BALLOTINES ET JAMBONNEAUXThese preparations are useful for disposing of any odd legs of fowls, the other parts of which have been already used. The legs are boned and stuffed, and the skin, which should be purposely left long if this preparation be contemplated, is then sewn up. The stuffing used varies according to the kind of dish in preparation, but good sausage-meat is most commonly used.Ballotines or Jambonneaux are braised, and they may be accompanied by any garnish suited to fowl.If they be prepared for serving cold, coat them with jelly, or cover them with brown or white chaud-froid sauce, and garnish them according to fancy.Boudins et Quenelles de Volaille1655—BOUDINS DE VOLAILLEA LA RICHELIEUTake the required amount of chicken forcemeat, prepared with panada and cream, and divide it into three-oz. portions. Roll these portions into sausage-form, and open them so as to stuff them with some white chicken-meat, truffle and mushroomsalpicon, cohered with reduced Allemande sauce. These quenelles may also be moulded in little, rectangular cases, used in biscuit-making, asfollows:—Line the bottom and sides of the moulds, which should be well buttered, with a thickness of one-third inch of forcemeat; garnish the centre withsalpicon; cover with forcemeat up to the edges, and smooth with the blade of a small knife dipped in tepid water.[524]Whichever way they are made, however, the boudins are poached like quenelles, and are afterwards drained on a piece of linen. They are then dipped in beaten egg and rolled in bread-crumbs, and, finally, gently coloured in clarified butter, that their inside may get heated at the same time.Dish them in a circle on a folded napkin, and serve a Périgueux sauce separately.1656—BOUDINS DE VOLAILLE SOUBISEPrepare the boudins with some forcemeat as above, but replace thesalpiconinside by a very reduced and cold truffled Soubise purée.Poach, dip in beaten egg, and roll in bread-crumbs, and colour as before in clarified butter.Serve a clear Soubise separately.1657—QUENELLES DE VOLAILLE MORLANDMould some portions of somewhat firm chickenmousselineforcemeat into the shape of oval quenelles, three oz. in weight. Dip them in beaten egg; roll them in finely minced truffle, and press lightly on the latter with the blade of a knife, in order that it may combine with the egg.Poach gently in clarified butter, under cover, that the forcemeat may be well cooked.Dish in a circle, and in the middle pour a mushroom purée.1658—QUENELLES DE VOLAILLE D’UZÈSLine the bottom and sides of some oval buttered quenelle moulds with chicken forcemeat prepared with panada and cream. Garnish the middle with a mince of the white of chicken meat cohered with reduced Allemande sauce, and cover with forcemeat.Poach the quenelles in good time; drain them on a piece of linen; set them in a circle on a round dish, and coat with Aurore sauce. Garnish the centre of the circle with a fineJulienneof truffles.1659—CAPILOTADE DE VOLAILLEPrepare an Italienne sauce, combined with cooked, sliced mushrooms. Add to this sauce some thin slices of cold fowl remains, and heat without allowing to boil at all.Dish in a timbale, and sprinkle a little chopped parsley over the preparation.1660—CHICKEN PIECut a fowl into pieces as for a fricassée; season the pieces, and sprinkle them with three finely-chopped onions, one and[525]one-half oz. of chopped mushrooms cooked in butter, and a pinch of chopped parsley.Line the bottom and sides of a pie-dish with thin slices of veal; set the pieces of fowl inside, putting the legs undermost; add five oz. of thin slices of bacon; the yolks of four hard-boiled eggs cut into two; and moisten sufficiently to three-parts cover with chicken consommé. Cover with a layer of puff-paste, which should be sealed down to a strip of paste stuck to the edges of the pie-dish;gild; streak; make a slit in the middle of the paste, and bake in a moderate oven for one and one-half hours.When taking the pie out of the oven, pour a few tablespoonfuls of strong gravy into it.1661—CRÊTES ET ROGNONS DE COQIn order to prepare cocks’ combs and kidneys, they should be first set to soak in cold water for a few hours.If they are fresh, they should be put in a saucepan of cold water; the latter should be made lukewarm, and they should then be drained and rubbed in a towel that their skins may be removed. This done, they are trimmed, and kept in fresh water, which ought to be frequently changed until they are quite white.They may then be cooked in a very light Blanc (No.167).The kidneys are merely soaked in cold water for a few hours, and put to cook with the combs a few minutes before the latter are ready.Cocks’ combs and kidneys are mostly used as garnish; nevertheless, they also serve in the preparation of special dishes, for which I shall now give a few recipes.1662—CRÊTES ET ROGNONS DE COQA LA GRECQUEAbout twenty-five minutes before serving, prepare a pint of pilaff rice, combined with one half-capsicum cut into dice, and a very little saffron.Also prepare ten roundels of egg-plant, seasoned, dredged, and fried in oil just before dishing. The moment the rice is cooked, add thereto twenty-four very fresh cocks’ kidneys, frizzled in butter, and twelve fineblanchedcocks’ combs,poëledafter the manner of lambs’ sweetbreads.Set the whole in a silver saucepan, arrange the egg-plant roundels in a circle on the rice, and serve instantly.1663—DESIRS DE MASCOTTEPut three oz. of butter in a vegetable-pan, and fry it nut-brown.[526]Add to this butter twenty-four fine cocks’ kidneys (it is essential that these should be fresh); season them with salt, pepper, and a little red pepper, and cook them for from five to six minutes, which should prove sufficient.Meanwhile, prepare twelvecroûtonsof bread-crumbs, one-third inch thick, stamped out with a round cutter two-thirds inch in diameter. Fry thesecroûtonsin butter at the last minute.Put four fine, very black truffles, cut into somewhat thick slices, into the required quantity of reduced half-glaze sauce; add the kidneys, drained of their butter, as well as the fried crusts, one and one-half oz. of very best butter, and a few drops of lemon juice, and roll the saucepan gently, that the butter may thoroughly combine with the sauce.Dish immediately in a very hot, silver timbale, and serve instantly.1664—ROGNONS DE COQ FARCIS POUR ENTRÉES FROIDES, GARNITURES, ETC.Choose some fine, cooked kidneys, and cut them into two lengthwise. Trim them slightly underneath, that they may lie steady.Stuff them by means of a piping-bag with a highly seasoned purée of foie gras, or of ham, of the white of a chicken and truffles, combined with an equal weight of fresh butter.Coat them with a pink or white chaud-froid sauce, according to the requirements; set them in a low timbale, and cover them with light jelly.They may also be put into petits-fours moulds, surrounded with jelly, and used as a garnish for cold fowls.1664a—CHICKEN CROQUETTES AND CUTLETSThe croquettes and cutlets with which we are now concerned are made up of exactly the same constituents, and only differ in the matter of shape, the croquettes, as a rule, being shaped either like corks or rectangles; sometimes, too, like quoits; whereas the cutlets, as their name implies, are made in cutlet-shaped moulds.The preparation from which they are made is asfollows:—One lb. of the meat of a poached or roast fowl, thoroughly cleared of all skin, cartilage, and bones, and cut into small regular dice[Footnote1]; six oz. of cooked mushrooms; an equal amount of salted ox-tongue or York ham, and four oz. of truffles. Cut[527]these various products like the chicken, and mix them therewith; then add one-half pint of very reduced and finished Allemande sauce to the whole; set the preparation to dry for a few minutes over an open fire; this done, remove it from the latter, and thicken it with the yolks of four raw eggs, which should be quickly mixed with it. Now pour the preparation into a very clean, buttered tray, and butter its surface, lest a crust form thereon during the cooling.When the preparation is quite cold, transfer it, by means of a spoon, in pieces weighing about two oz., to a flour-dusted mixing board. Make the croquettes and cutlets about the desired shape; dip them into ananglaise, and roll them in fine bread-crumbs. Definitely shape them; plunge them into very hot fat; keep them therein till they have acquired a fine golden colour; drain them, and dish them in a crown on a napkin, with a heap of fried parsley in the middle.Croquettes and cutlets may be garnished as fancy suggests, but the accompaniment should always be served separately. Tomato and Périgueux sauces are the most commonly used, and the best garnishes for the purpose are all the purées, peas, French beans, andjardinières.[Footnote1:When prepared as directed above, all meats, whether of poultry, game, fish, crustacea or mollusca, &c., may serve in the preparation of croquettes or cutlets.]Return to textChickens’ Livers (Foies de Volaille)1665—BROCHETTES DE FOIES DE VOLAILLECollop the livers; quickly stiffen them in butter, and then treat them exactly as explained under “Brochettes de Rognons” (No.1343).1666—FOIES DE VOLAILLE ET ROGNONS SAUTÉSAU VIN ROUGEProceed according to the recipe given under “RognonsSautésau Champagne” (No.1333), using sliced chickens’ livers and cocks’ kidneys in equal quantities, and substituting excellent red wine for the Champagne.N.B.—Chickens’ livers are also preparedsautéschasseur;sautésfines herbes, augratin; en coquilles; en pilaw, &c. Refer to sheep’skidneys for these preparations.1667—FRICASSÉE DE POULETA L’ANCIENNEFor a fricassée cut up the chicken as for asauté, but divide the legs into two. The procedure is exactly that of “Fricassée de Veau” (No.1276)—that is to say, the chicken is cooked in the sauce.About ten minutes before serving, add ten small onions,[528]cooked in white consommé, and ten small grooved mushroom-heads. Finish at the last moment with a pinch of chopped parsley and chives. Thicken the sauce at the last moment with the yolks of two eggs, four tablespoonfuls of cream, and one oz. of best butter.Dish in a timbale, and surround the fricassée with little flowerets of puff-paste, baked without colouration.1668—FRICASSÉE DE POULET AUX ÉCREVISSESPrepare the fricassée as above, and add thereto as garnish ten small, cooked mushrooms, and the shelled tails of twelve crayfish, cooked as for bisque. When about to serve, finish the fricassée with two and one-half oz. of crayfish butter, made from the crayfishes’ carcasses and their cooking-liquor rubbed through linen.Dish in a timbale.1669—FRITÔT OU MARINADE DE VOLAILLECut some boiled or roast fowl into slices, andmarinadethese in a few drops of oil, lemon juice, and some chopped herbs for one-quarter hour. Boiled fowl is preferable, in that the greater porousness of its meat facilitates the percolation of themarinadethrough it.A few minutes before serving, dip the slices into very light batter, and put them into very hot fat. Drain, the moment the batter is wellgilded; dish on a napkin with fried parsley, and serve a tomato sauce separately.N.B.—Nowadays Fritôt andMarinadeof fowl are identically the same dish, but formerly they differed in this, namely, that the Fritôt was prepared from cooked fowl, and theMarinadefrom pieces of uncooked fowl which weremarinadedbeforehand.1670—MOUSSES ET MOUSSELINES DE VOLAILLEBoth these preparations have for basic ingredient themousselineforcemeat of No.195. They differ in that the “Mousses” are prepared singly for one service,i.e., for several people at once, and that the “Mousselines,” which are virtually special quenelles, are prepared in the proportion of one or two for each person.In different parts of this work, especially under No.797, the subject has already been exhaustively treated; there is no need now, therefore, to go over the ground again.[529]1671—MOUSSELINES DE VOLAILLE ALEXANDRAMould and poach theMousselines. Drain them, and set them in a circle on a round dish; place on each a fine slice of cooked fowl, and upon the latter a slice of truffle. Coat with Mornay sauce, glaze quickly, and, in the middle of themousselines, set a heap of asparagus-heads or small peas, cohered with butter.1672—MOUSSELINES DE VOLAILLEA L’INDIENNEPrepare themousselinesas above; set them in a circle on a round dish; coat with Indienne sauce, and serve a timbale of rice à l’Indienne separately.1673—MOUSSELINES DE VOLAILLE AU PAPRIKAWhen themousselinesare poached and dished, set upon each a fine collop ofsuprême, and coat with suprême sauce with paprika. Surround them with small timbales of pilaff rice combined withconcassedtomatoes cooked in butter.1674—MOUSSELINES DE VOLAILLEA LA PATTIProceed as for “Mousselines Alexandra,” but coat them with suprême sauce, finished with crayfish butter. In their midst set a heap of asparagus-heads, cohered with butter, and upon these lay some fine slices of glazed truffles.1675—MOUSSELINES DE VOLAILLEA LA SICILIENNEPrepare themousselinesas above, and set them, each on an oval tartlet, garnished with macaroni à la Napolitaine. Coat them with suprême sauce; besprinkle with grated Parmesan, and glaze quickly.1676—SYLPHIDES DE VOLAILLEPrepare and poach themousselinesin the usual way. Garnish the bottom of somebarquetteswith Mornay sauce, and put amousselineinto eachbarquette.Set a collop of fowl on eachmousseline, and cover them with a somewhat stiff preparation of soufflé au Parmesan (No.2295a), applied ornamentally by means of a piping-bag fitted with an even pipe. Put the sylphides in the oven, in order to cook thesoufflé, and serve instantly.1677—MOUSSELINES DE VOLAILLEA LA FLORENTINEProceed as for the sylphides; taking note only of this difference, viz., that the bottom of thebarquettesmust be garnished with shredded spinach stewed in butter. For the other details of the operation the procedure is the same.[530]1678—PILAW DE VOLAILLEPilaff, which is the national dish of Orientals, gives rise to an endless number of recipes. The various curries of veal, lamb, and fowl are “pilaffs,” and all except the one “à la Parisienne,” which I give below, follow the same method of preparation—namely, that of curry; but for a change in the condiments and the treatment of the rice, which is not the same as that of “Riz à l’Indienne.”1679—PILAW DE VOLAILLEA LA GRECQUECut the fowl into small pieces, and fry it in mutton fat with three oz. of chopped onions. Sprinkle with one oz. of flour; moisten with one pint of white consommé; add two-thirds of a capsicum, cut into dice, and one and one-half oz. of currants and sultanas, and cook gently.Dish in a timbale, and serve some pilaw rice separately.1680—PILAW DE VOLAILLEA L’ORIENTALEPrepare the fowl as above, only flavour it with a little powdered ginger, and add three green braised and quartered capsicums to the sauce.Serve a timbale of pilaff rice at the same time.1681—PILAW DE VOLAILLEA LA PARISIENNECut up the fowl as for a fricassée; season it; fry it in butter, and add thereto three and one-half oz. of rice, browned in butter, with one chopped onion, a leaf of bay, and two peeled andconcassedtomatoes. Moisten with enough white broth to more than cover, and cook in a very hot oven for twenty-five minutes. At the end of this time the fowl and rice are cooked, and the rice should be quite dry.Sprinkle then with one-sixth pint of veal stock; mix the latter with the pilaff by means of a fork, and dish with care in a timbale.Serve a sauceboat of tomato sauce separately.1682—PILAW DE VOLAILLEA LA TURQUEPrepare the fowl as for “Pilaw à la Parisienne,” and flavour with a little cayenne and another of saffron. Dish in a timbale.N.B.—Pilaff may also be prepared with cooked fowl, cut into slices which are heated in butter. In this case, garnish the bottoms and sides of a timbale withtomatédpilaff rice; put the slices of fowl in the middle; cover with rice, and turn out the timbale on the dish.Surround the timbale with a thread of tomato sauce.[531]1683—SOUFFLÉS DE VOLAILLEFor dinners on a large scale, it is in every way preferable to use raw chicken-meat. For small services, cooked chicken-meat suits perfectly.N.B.—The time allowed for cooking chickensouffléswith cooked chicken-meat is comparatively long, and it is better to cook them a little too much than not enough.For asoufflémade in a quart timbale, and cooked in a moderate oven as directed, allow from about twenty-five to thirty minutes.1684—SOUFFLÉ DE VOLAILLE WITH RAW MEATPrepare two lbs. ofmousselineforcemeat of chicken, according to recipe No.195; add to this the whites of four eggs beaten to a stiff froth.Dish in buttered timbales, and cook in a moderate oven.1685—SOUFFLÉ DE VOLAILLE WITH COOKED MEATFinely pound one lb. of the white of cooked chicken-meat; add thereto six tablespoonfuls of cold, reduced, Béchamel sauce. Rub through tammy.Heat this preparation in a saucepan, without allowing it to boil, and add to it one and one-half oz. of butter, the yolks of five eggs, and the whites of six, beaten to a stiff froth.Dish in a buttered timbale, and cook in a moderate oven.Suprême sauce and the other derivatives of Allemande sauce form the best accompaniments to chickensoufflés.1686—SOUFFLÉ DE VOLAILLEA LA PÉRIGORDThis may be made from either one of the two above-mentioned preparations, but there must be added to it three and one-half oz. of chopped truffles. The preparation is then spread in layers separated by slices of truffle, which should weigh about three and one-half oz. in all, in order to be in proportion to the quantities already given.Cold Preparations of Fowl.1687—POULARDEA LA CARMÉLITEPoach the pullet; raise thesuprêmesand remove their skin; slice them; coat them with white chaud-froid sauce, and decorate them soberly with pieces of truffle. Trim the carcass; coat it outside with white chaud-froid sauce, and fill it with a fine crayfishmousse, reconstructing it exactly in so doing.Cause amousseto set in a refrigerator; place the collops of[532]suprêmeneatly upon it, in two rows, and between each row lay a dozen fine crayfish tails shelled and trimmed.Coat the whole with half-melted aspic jelly; set in a deep dish; incrust the latter in a block of ice, and pour enough very good, melting aspic jelly (No.159) over the pullet to half-immerse it.1688—POULARDE AU CHAMPAGNEStuff a pullet two days beforehand with a whole foie gras studded with truffles and stiffened in butter for twenty minutes.Poëleit in champagne; put it in acocotte; cover it with itspoëling-liquor, containing a sufficient addition of succulent jelly, and leave it to cool.On the morrow remove, by means of a spoon, the grease that has settled on the jelly, and scald the latter twice or thrice with boiling water, in order to remove the last traces of grease.Serve this pullet very cold, in the samecocottein which it has cooled.1689—POULARDE EN CHAUD-FROIDPoach the pullet; let it cool in its cooking-liquor; cut it up, and clear the pieces of all skin. Dip the pieces in chaud-froid sauce, already prepared from the pullet’s cooking-liquor if possible, and arrange them on a tray. Decorate each piece with a fine slice of truffle; glaze with cold, melted jelly; leave to set, and trim the edges of the pieces, just before dishing them.Old method of dishing: Formerly, chaud-froids were dished on a cushion of bread or rice, placed in the middle of a border of jelly; and, between each piece, cocks’ combs and mushrooms, covered with chaud-froid sauce or jelly, were set.They were also dished on stearine tazzas, made in special moulds; but these methods, however much they may have been honoured by old cookery, are generally scouted at the present day.The method of dishing detailed hereafter is steadily ousting them; it allows of serving much more delicate and more agreeable chaud-froids in the simplest possible way, and was inaugurated at my suggestion at the Savoy Hotel.Modern method of dishing: Set the decorated pieces, coated with chaud-froid sauce, side by side on a layer of excellent aspic jelly, lying on the bottom of a deep square dish. Cover them with the same aspic, which should be half melted, and leave to set. When about to serve, incrust the dish in a block of carved ice, or surround it with the latter fragmented.[533]This procedure allows of using less gelatinous products in the preparation of the aspic, and the latter is therefore much more delicate, mellow, and melting.1690—POULARDE EN CHAUD-FROIDA L’ÉCOSSAISEHaving poached and cooled the pullets, raise thesuprêmes, and cut each into three or four collops. Garnish these collops, dome-fashion, with asalpiconconsisting of the meat cut from the carcass, combined with an equal quantity of salted tongue and truffle, and cohered with reduced chicken jelly.Coat these collops with white chaud-froid sauce; sprinkle them immediately with very red tongue, truffle, gherkins, and hard-boiled white of egg; all chopped, mixed, and glazed with jelly.Now set the collops in a deep, square silver dish, alternating them with oval slices of salted tongue.Garnish their midst with a salad of French beans, cut lozenge-form and cohered with aspic.1691—CHAUD-FROID FELIX FAURERaise thesuprêmesof a fine pullet; cut them in two in the thick part, without separating them, and slightly flatten them. Lay them on a piece of linen; season them; and, on one of their halves, spread a layer of foie-gras purée thickened with a little chicken forcemeat. Upon this layer set some rectangles of raw foie gras, one-third in. thick; cover with purée, set some slices of truffle upon the latter; coat again with purée; moisten with white of egg, and over the whole press the other half of thesuprême. Wrap eachsuprême, prepared in this way, in a piece of muslin; poach them in a moderate oven, after having moistened them to within half their height with chicken stock; and leave them to cool in their cooking-liquor under slight pressure.This done, take off the muslin, and cut eachsuprêmeinto ten or twelve medallions. Envelop each medallion in amousseof chicken made with the meat of the poached eggs, and leave to set. Then coat each medallion with white chaud-froid sauce, and deck each with a fine slice of truffle.Clothea dome-mould with a fine chicken jelly, and decorate it with slices of truffle; put the medallions inside, proceeding as for an aspic, and leave to set.When about to serve, turn out on a serviette.1692—CHAUD-FROID DE POULARDEA LA GOUNODRaise thesuprêmesof a poached pullet, and cool them under pressure.[534]Then cut them into rectangles of equal sizes; and, if necessary, bisect them in the thickness.Prepare a slab ofmousse(made from the legs and the trimmings), twice as thick as the rectangles. Smoothen thismousseneatly, and put it in the refrigerator that it may get firm. This done, cut it into pieces exactly equal in size to thesuprêmes; to do this, all that is necessary is to stick the latter on themousseby means of jelly.Now coat eachsuprêmegarnished withmoussewith white chaud-froid sauce, and decorate with a bar of notes, imitated with truffles.Set in a square, deep silver dish; cover with limpid and melting chicken jelly; leave to set, and serve the dish incrusted in a block of ice.1693—CHAUD-FROID DE POULARDEA LA ROSSINIPrepare the pieces as for ordinary chaud-froid, and coat them with chaud-froid sauce combined with a quarter of its bulk of very smooth foie-gras purée. Decorate each piece with a lyre composed of truffle stamped out with a “lyre” fancy-cutter, set them on a deep, square dish, and cover with chicken jelly as above.1694—POULARDE A LA DAMPIERRECompletely bone the pullet’s breast, and stuff it with a preparation of chicken forcemeat (No.200). Sew up the piece, truss it as for an entrée, and poach it in a chicken stock.When it is cold, trim it, and coat it with a white chaud-froid sauce, combined with a little almond milk. Glaze with aspic jelly, and set it, without decorating it, on a low cushion lying on a long dish.Surround it with six small, hammoussesand six small, chickenmousses, moulded in deepdariole-moulds, and arranged alternately.Border the dish withcroûtonsof jelly, cut very neatly.1695—POULETSA L’ÉCARLATEBone the breasts of three fair-sized chickens; stuff and poach them as explained above. When they are quite cold, cover them with white chaud-froid sauce; decorate with pieces of truffle; glaze with aspic jelly, and leave to set.This done, set them upright on a dish, letting them lean one against the other. Between each chicken set a salted calf’s tongue, upright, with the tip of the tongue pointing upwards; and, on either side of the tongues, a large glazed truffle.[535]Border the dish with finecroûtonsof jelly, and serve a mayonnaise sauce at the same time.1696—POULARDEA LA LAMBERTYEPoach the pullet and let it cool thoroughly.Raise thesuprêmes, suppress the bones of the breast and garnish the cavity with a cold chickenmousse, combined with a quarter of its volume of foie-gras purée, shaping the latter in such wise as to reconstruct the bird.Cut thesuprêmesinto thin, long slices; coat them with white chaud-froid sauce, and place them on themousse, pressing them lightly one upon the other. Deck with pieces of truffle; glaze with chicken jelly; set in a square, entrée dish, and surround with melted jelly.When about to serve, incrust the dish in a block of ice.1697—POULARDEA LA NEVAStuff the pullet with chicken forcemeat (No.200), combined with foie gras and truffles, cut into dice; poach it in chicken stock and let it cool. This done, coat the piece with white chaud-froid sauce, decorate with jelly, and leave to set.Set the pullet on a cushion of rice, lying on a long dish. Behind the bird, arrange a fine, vegetable salad in a shell of carved rice, or in a large, silver shell.Border the dish with neatly-cutcroûtonsof pale jelly.1698—POULARDE ROSE DE MAIPoach the pullet and, when it is quite cold, raise itssuprêmesand remove the bones of the breast. Coat the carcass with a white chaud-froid sauce; decorate as fancy may dictate; garnish with amousseof tomatoes (No.814), and arrange the latter in such wise as to reconstruct the bird.Slice thesuprêmes; coat them with white chaud-froid sauce; decorate with truffles, and glaze with chicken jelly. Garnish with the samemousseas that already used for the pullet, as many small,barquette-moulds as there are chaud-froid-coated slices, and leave to set.Put the pullets on a low cushion of rice, placed on a long dish; surround it with thebarquettesofmousse, turned out at the last moment; set a chaud-froid-coated slice on eachbarquette, and distributecroûtonsof jelly over the dish.1699—POULARDE ROSE MARIEHaving poached and cooled the pullet, raise itssuprêmes; cut these into collops, and coat them with white chaud-froid sauce. Trim the carcass, leaving the wings attached; garnish[536]it with very smooth and pink, hammousse, giving the latter the shape of the pullet, and put to set in the refrigerator.Mould in small, oval moulds, as manybarquettesof the same hammousseas there are collops.When themoussein the fowl has properly set, coat it with chaud-froid sauce, prepared with paprika of a fine, tender, pink shade; decorate according to fancy, and glaze with chicken jelly.Set the pullet on a low cushion of rice, placed on a dish; place thebarquettesof hammoussearound it; set a collop on eachmousseand a fine slice of truffle on each collop, and border the dish withcroûtonsof aspic.1700—POULARDEA LA SAINT-CYRPoëlethe pullet in white wine, and leave it to cool in its cooking-liquor. This done, raise the fillets; cut them into regular slices; coat them with white chaud-froid sauce and decorate.Meanwhile,sautéfifteen larks in amirepoix; remove the fillets of six of them; glaze them with brown, chaud-froid sauce, and decorate them with bits of hard-boiled white of egg.With the remainder of the larks and five oz. of foie gras, prepare amousse, and use the latter for reconstructing the pullet as explained in the preceding recipes. When themoussehas set properly, coat it with brown, chaud-froid sauce. Arrange the chicken fillets, coated with white, chaud-froid sauce, on either side of themousse; in the middle put the larks’ fillets, coated with brown, chaud-froid sauce, and let them slightly overlap one another.Set the pullet in a deep, square dish; surround it with melted, chicken jelly; let the latter set, and serve the dish incrusted in a block of ice.1701—POULARDE EN TERRINEA LA GELÉEBone the pullet all but the legs, and stuff it with a forcemeat consisting of: three and one-half oz. of veal; three and one-half oz. of fresh pork fat; three and one-half oz. ofgratinforcemeat, prepared from fowls’ livers; two tablespoonfuls of brandy; two tablespoonfuls of truffle essence, and the yolk of an egg.In the midst of the stuffing, set half of a raw foie gras and one raw, quartered truffle on each side. Reconstruct the pullet; truss it as for an entrée; cover it with slices of bacon, andpoëlein Madeira for one and one-half hours.Leave to half-cool in the cooking-liquor; withdraw the pullet; remove the slices of bacon, and put it in aterrinejust large enough to hold it.[537]Add a little chicken jelly to the bird’s cooking-liquor, which should not have been cleared of grease, but merely strained through a napkin; and pour this sauce over the pullet.Do not serve until twenty-four hours have elapsed, and clear of grease as directed under “Poularde au Champagne” (No.1688).Serve theterrinein a block of ice, or on a dish with broken ice all round.1702—TERRINE DE POULARDE EN CONSERVEPrepare the pullet as explained above, and put it in a box just large enough to hold it. Seal up the box; mark the top with a bit of tin; put it in a stewpan with enough water to cover it, and boil for two hours.This done, withdraw the box and cool it, placing it upside down, that the grease may be at the bottom and the breast coated with jelly.1703—AILERONS DE POULETA LA CARMÉLITEPoach a chicken à la Reine; let it cool; raise itssuprêmesand leave the humerus bones attached, after having duly cleared them of all meat; skin thesuprêmes, and coat them with a little jelly.Garnish a timbale, just large enough to hold the two wings, half-way up with crayfishmousse. Upon thismousse, set the twosuprêmes, opposite one another, and between them set a row of shelled and trimmed crayfishes’ tails, cooked as for bisque. Cover the whole with a succulent half-set chicken jelly, and place in the refrigerator for two hours.1704—AILERONS DE POULET LADY WILMERPoach three fleshy, spring chickens, taking care to have thesuprêmesjust cooked. Leave to cool, and raise the wings as in the preceding recipe, trim them and coat them with jelly.With the meat of three legs, prepare a chickenmousse, and mould it in a dome-mould. When themousseis set, turn it out on a dish, and place the wings all round, fixing them on themousse, with their points upwards, by means of a little half-set jelly.Cover themousseon top, and the gaps between the points of thesuprêmeswith chopped truffle and chopped tongue, laid alternately. In the middle of themousse, set a fine, glazed truffle, pierced by a smallhatelet.1705—ASPIC DE POULETA L’ITALIENNEClothea border mould with aspic jelly, in accordance with the procedure described under “Aspic de Homard” (No.954),[538]and decorate it with large slices of truffles. Fill the mould with a coarsejulienneof chicken fillets, salted tongue and truffles, spread in successive layers and besprinkled with cold, melted aspic.When about to serve, turn out the aspic on a very cold dish; set a salad “à l’Italienne” in its midst, and serve a Rémoulade sauce separately.1706—ASPIC DE POULETA LA GAULOISEClothean ornamented mould with jelly, and decorate its bottom and sides with truffles. Fill it with successive and alternate layers of: aspic jelly, collops of chicken fillets, cocks’ combs coated with brown, chaud-froid sauce, fine cocks’ kidneys, coated with white chaud-froid sauce, and slices of salted tongue cut into oval shapes.When about to serve, turn out, and surround with finecroûtonsof aspic.1707—MÉDAILLONSDE VOLAILLE RACHELPrepare some chickensuprêmesas explained under “Chaud-froid Félix Faure” (No.1691), and cut them into collops. Trim these collops with a round, even cutter, and coat them with aspic.Prepare amoussefrom the meat of the legs. Spread thismousseon a tray in a layer one-third in. thick and leave it to set. When it is quite firm, stamp it out with a round, even cutter, dipped in hot water, and a little larger than the one used in trimming the collops.Set a medallion on each roundel ofmousse, fixing it there by means of a little half-set jelly, and arrange the medallion prepared in this way on a square dish.In their midst set a fine faggot of asparagus-heads; fill the gaps betweenthe medallions with a garnish consisting of a salad of asparagus-heads with cream.Serve on a block of ice or surround the dish with ice.1708—GALANTINE DE VOLAILLEFor galantines, fowls may be used which are a little too tough to be roasted, but old fowls should be discarded. The latter invariably yield a dry forcemeat, whatever measures one may take in the preparation.The fowl should be cleaned but not emptied, and it should be carefully boned; the process beginning from an incision down the skin of the back, from the head to the tail.This done, carefully remove the meat with the point of a[539]small, sharp knife, until the carcass is quite bare. Cut off the wings and the legs, flush with the articulations of the trunk; remove all the meat that the skin may be quite clean, and spread the skin on a clean piece of linen. Trim the meat of the breast, cut it into pieces one-third inch square, and put the resulting trimmings aside.Season these pieces andmarinadethem in a few drops of brandy; prepare other pieces of the same size and length from four oz. of truffles; six oz. of salted, fat pork; four oz. of cooked ham, and four oz. of salted and cooked ox-tongue. Then clear the meat of the legs of all tendons; add to it the trimmings cut from the breast, as much very white veal and twice as much very fat, fresh pork; season these meats with salt, pepper and nutmeg; chop them up very finely; pound them, and rub them through a sieve. Add the brandy in which the fillets weremarinaded.Spread a layer, three in. wide, of this forcemeat along the whole of the middle of the chicken’s skin; upon this layer of forcemeat set the strips of bacon, fowl, truffle, ham, and tongue, arranging them alternately and regularly; upon them spread another layer of forcemeat, equal to the first; then another layer of the various pieces, and finally cover and envelop the whole in what remains of the forcemeat.Draw the skin of the fowl over the whole and completely wrap the former round the latter. Carefully sew up the edges of the skin, and roll the galantine in a napkin, either end of which should be tightly strung.With six lbs. of shin of veal, one-half lb. of freshblanchedpork rind, and the fowl’s carcass, prepare a white veal stock (No.10). When this stock has cooked for about five hours, add the galantine to it, and gently cook the latter for about one and one-quarter hours.At the end of this time take the galantine off the fire; drain it on a dish, and let it cool for ten minutes; remove the napkin in which it has cooked, and roll it in another one which should be similarly tied at both ends. This done, put the galantine to cool under a weight not exceeding five or six lbs.The cooking-liquor, once it has been cleared of grease and clarified as for an aspic (No.158), constitutes a jelly which accompanies the galantine. When the latter is quite cold, remove the napkin covering it, trim it neatly at either end; coat it with half-melted jelly, and dish it on a low cushion of carved rice. Finally, decorate it as fancy may dictate with pieces of jelly.
Various Preparations of Fowl1652—ABATIS AUX NAVETSFry one-half lb. ofblanchedbreast of pork, cut into dice, in butter. Drain, and fry in the same sautépan three lbs. of giblets, cut into pieces (all except the livers, which are only added one-quarter hour before dishing). Sprinkle with two and one-half oz. of flour; mix the latter with the pieces, and cook it in the oven for seven or eight minutes; moisten with three pints of white stock. Season with a pinch of pepper; add a faggot and a crushed, garlic clove; set to boil, stirring the while; cover, and place in a somewhat hot oven, that the preparation may boil gently.[523]At the end of thirty-five minutes transfer the pieces to another saucepan; put back the bacon; add twenty-four small onions, tossed in butter, one lb. of turnips shaped like elongated olives and glazed, and strain the sauce over the whole.Complete the cooking gently, and serve in a timbale.N.B.—With the same procedure, the giblets may be prepared with peas; with mixed, new vegetables; à lachipolata, &c.
Fry one-half lb. ofblanchedbreast of pork, cut into dice, in butter. Drain, and fry in the same sautépan three lbs. of giblets, cut into pieces (all except the livers, which are only added one-quarter hour before dishing). Sprinkle with two and one-half oz. of flour; mix the latter with the pieces, and cook it in the oven for seven or eight minutes; moisten with three pints of white stock. Season with a pinch of pepper; add a faggot and a crushed, garlic clove; set to boil, stirring the while; cover, and place in a somewhat hot oven, that the preparation may boil gently.
[523]At the end of thirty-five minutes transfer the pieces to another saucepan; put back the bacon; add twenty-four small onions, tossed in butter, one lb. of turnips shaped like elongated olives and glazed, and strain the sauce over the whole.
Complete the cooking gently, and serve in a timbale.
N.B.—With the same procedure, the giblets may be prepared with peas; with mixed, new vegetables; à lachipolata, &c.
Fry the giblets, cut into pieces, in butter; sprinkle them moderately with flour; cook the latter, and moisten with just sufficient consommé to make a clear sauce which will just cover the pieces. Three-parts cook, and leave to cool.
This done, pour the whole into a pie-dish; cover with a layer of puff-paste, which should be sealed down to a strip of paste, stuck to the edge of the dish;gild; streak, and bake in a moderately warm oven for from twenty-five to thirty minutes.
These preparations are useful for disposing of any odd legs of fowls, the other parts of which have been already used. The legs are boned and stuffed, and the skin, which should be purposely left long if this preparation be contemplated, is then sewn up. The stuffing used varies according to the kind of dish in preparation, but good sausage-meat is most commonly used.
Ballotines or Jambonneaux are braised, and they may be accompanied by any garnish suited to fowl.
If they be prepared for serving cold, coat them with jelly, or cover them with brown or white chaud-froid sauce, and garnish them according to fancy.
Take the required amount of chicken forcemeat, prepared with panada and cream, and divide it into three-oz. portions. Roll these portions into sausage-form, and open them so as to stuff them with some white chicken-meat, truffle and mushroomsalpicon, cohered with reduced Allemande sauce. These quenelles may also be moulded in little, rectangular cases, used in biscuit-making, asfollows:—Line the bottom and sides of the moulds, which should be well buttered, with a thickness of one-third inch of forcemeat; garnish the centre withsalpicon; cover with forcemeat up to the edges, and smooth with the blade of a small knife dipped in tepid water.
[524]Whichever way they are made, however, the boudins are poached like quenelles, and are afterwards drained on a piece of linen. They are then dipped in beaten egg and rolled in bread-crumbs, and, finally, gently coloured in clarified butter, that their inside may get heated at the same time.
Dish them in a circle on a folded napkin, and serve a Périgueux sauce separately.
Prepare the boudins with some forcemeat as above, but replace thesalpiconinside by a very reduced and cold truffled Soubise purée.
Poach, dip in beaten egg, and roll in bread-crumbs, and colour as before in clarified butter.
Serve a clear Soubise separately.
Mould some portions of somewhat firm chickenmousselineforcemeat into the shape of oval quenelles, three oz. in weight. Dip them in beaten egg; roll them in finely minced truffle, and press lightly on the latter with the blade of a knife, in order that it may combine with the egg.
Poach gently in clarified butter, under cover, that the forcemeat may be well cooked.
Dish in a circle, and in the middle pour a mushroom purée.
Line the bottom and sides of some oval buttered quenelle moulds with chicken forcemeat prepared with panada and cream. Garnish the middle with a mince of the white of chicken meat cohered with reduced Allemande sauce, and cover with forcemeat.
Poach the quenelles in good time; drain them on a piece of linen; set them in a circle on a round dish, and coat with Aurore sauce. Garnish the centre of the circle with a fineJulienneof truffles.
Prepare an Italienne sauce, combined with cooked, sliced mushrooms. Add to this sauce some thin slices of cold fowl remains, and heat without allowing to boil at all.
Dish in a timbale, and sprinkle a little chopped parsley over the preparation.
Cut a fowl into pieces as for a fricassée; season the pieces, and sprinkle them with three finely-chopped onions, one and[525]one-half oz. of chopped mushrooms cooked in butter, and a pinch of chopped parsley.
Line the bottom and sides of a pie-dish with thin slices of veal; set the pieces of fowl inside, putting the legs undermost; add five oz. of thin slices of bacon; the yolks of four hard-boiled eggs cut into two; and moisten sufficiently to three-parts cover with chicken consommé. Cover with a layer of puff-paste, which should be sealed down to a strip of paste stuck to the edges of the pie-dish;gild; streak; make a slit in the middle of the paste, and bake in a moderate oven for one and one-half hours.
When taking the pie out of the oven, pour a few tablespoonfuls of strong gravy into it.
In order to prepare cocks’ combs and kidneys, they should be first set to soak in cold water for a few hours.
If they are fresh, they should be put in a saucepan of cold water; the latter should be made lukewarm, and they should then be drained and rubbed in a towel that their skins may be removed. This done, they are trimmed, and kept in fresh water, which ought to be frequently changed until they are quite white.
They may then be cooked in a very light Blanc (No.167).
The kidneys are merely soaked in cold water for a few hours, and put to cook with the combs a few minutes before the latter are ready.
Cocks’ combs and kidneys are mostly used as garnish; nevertheless, they also serve in the preparation of special dishes, for which I shall now give a few recipes.
About twenty-five minutes before serving, prepare a pint of pilaff rice, combined with one half-capsicum cut into dice, and a very little saffron.
Also prepare ten roundels of egg-plant, seasoned, dredged, and fried in oil just before dishing. The moment the rice is cooked, add thereto twenty-four very fresh cocks’ kidneys, frizzled in butter, and twelve fineblanchedcocks’ combs,poëledafter the manner of lambs’ sweetbreads.
Set the whole in a silver saucepan, arrange the egg-plant roundels in a circle on the rice, and serve instantly.
Put three oz. of butter in a vegetable-pan, and fry it nut-brown.
[526]Add to this butter twenty-four fine cocks’ kidneys (it is essential that these should be fresh); season them with salt, pepper, and a little red pepper, and cook them for from five to six minutes, which should prove sufficient.
Meanwhile, prepare twelvecroûtonsof bread-crumbs, one-third inch thick, stamped out with a round cutter two-thirds inch in diameter. Fry thesecroûtonsin butter at the last minute.
Put four fine, very black truffles, cut into somewhat thick slices, into the required quantity of reduced half-glaze sauce; add the kidneys, drained of their butter, as well as the fried crusts, one and one-half oz. of very best butter, and a few drops of lemon juice, and roll the saucepan gently, that the butter may thoroughly combine with the sauce.
Dish immediately in a very hot, silver timbale, and serve instantly.
Choose some fine, cooked kidneys, and cut them into two lengthwise. Trim them slightly underneath, that they may lie steady.
Stuff them by means of a piping-bag with a highly seasoned purée of foie gras, or of ham, of the white of a chicken and truffles, combined with an equal weight of fresh butter.
Coat them with a pink or white chaud-froid sauce, according to the requirements; set them in a low timbale, and cover them with light jelly.
They may also be put into petits-fours moulds, surrounded with jelly, and used as a garnish for cold fowls.
The croquettes and cutlets with which we are now concerned are made up of exactly the same constituents, and only differ in the matter of shape, the croquettes, as a rule, being shaped either like corks or rectangles; sometimes, too, like quoits; whereas the cutlets, as their name implies, are made in cutlet-shaped moulds.
The preparation from which they are made is asfollows:—One lb. of the meat of a poached or roast fowl, thoroughly cleared of all skin, cartilage, and bones, and cut into small regular dice[Footnote1]; six oz. of cooked mushrooms; an equal amount of salted ox-tongue or York ham, and four oz. of truffles. Cut[527]these various products like the chicken, and mix them therewith; then add one-half pint of very reduced and finished Allemande sauce to the whole; set the preparation to dry for a few minutes over an open fire; this done, remove it from the latter, and thicken it with the yolks of four raw eggs, which should be quickly mixed with it. Now pour the preparation into a very clean, buttered tray, and butter its surface, lest a crust form thereon during the cooling.
When the preparation is quite cold, transfer it, by means of a spoon, in pieces weighing about two oz., to a flour-dusted mixing board. Make the croquettes and cutlets about the desired shape; dip them into ananglaise, and roll them in fine bread-crumbs. Definitely shape them; plunge them into very hot fat; keep them therein till they have acquired a fine golden colour; drain them, and dish them in a crown on a napkin, with a heap of fried parsley in the middle.
Croquettes and cutlets may be garnished as fancy suggests, but the accompaniment should always be served separately. Tomato and Périgueux sauces are the most commonly used, and the best garnishes for the purpose are all the purées, peas, French beans, andjardinières.
[Footnote1:When prepared as directed above, all meats, whether of poultry, game, fish, crustacea or mollusca, &c., may serve in the preparation of croquettes or cutlets.]Return to text
[Footnote1:When prepared as directed above, all meats, whether of poultry, game, fish, crustacea or mollusca, &c., may serve in the preparation of croquettes or cutlets.]Return to text
Collop the livers; quickly stiffen them in butter, and then treat them exactly as explained under “Brochettes de Rognons” (No.1343).
Proceed according to the recipe given under “RognonsSautésau Champagne” (No.1333), using sliced chickens’ livers and cocks’ kidneys in equal quantities, and substituting excellent red wine for the Champagne.
N.B.—Chickens’ livers are also preparedsautéschasseur;sautésfines herbes, augratin; en coquilles; en pilaw, &c. Refer to sheep’skidneys for these preparations.
For a fricassée cut up the chicken as for asauté, but divide the legs into two. The procedure is exactly that of “Fricassée de Veau” (No.1276)—that is to say, the chicken is cooked in the sauce.
About ten minutes before serving, add ten small onions,[528]cooked in white consommé, and ten small grooved mushroom-heads. Finish at the last moment with a pinch of chopped parsley and chives. Thicken the sauce at the last moment with the yolks of two eggs, four tablespoonfuls of cream, and one oz. of best butter.
Dish in a timbale, and surround the fricassée with little flowerets of puff-paste, baked without colouration.
Prepare the fricassée as above, and add thereto as garnish ten small, cooked mushrooms, and the shelled tails of twelve crayfish, cooked as for bisque. When about to serve, finish the fricassée with two and one-half oz. of crayfish butter, made from the crayfishes’ carcasses and their cooking-liquor rubbed through linen.
Dish in a timbale.
Cut some boiled or roast fowl into slices, andmarinadethese in a few drops of oil, lemon juice, and some chopped herbs for one-quarter hour. Boiled fowl is preferable, in that the greater porousness of its meat facilitates the percolation of themarinadethrough it.
A few minutes before serving, dip the slices into very light batter, and put them into very hot fat. Drain, the moment the batter is wellgilded; dish on a napkin with fried parsley, and serve a tomato sauce separately.
N.B.—Nowadays Fritôt andMarinadeof fowl are identically the same dish, but formerly they differed in this, namely, that the Fritôt was prepared from cooked fowl, and theMarinadefrom pieces of uncooked fowl which weremarinadedbeforehand.
Both these preparations have for basic ingredient themousselineforcemeat of No.195. They differ in that the “Mousses” are prepared singly for one service,i.e., for several people at once, and that the “Mousselines,” which are virtually special quenelles, are prepared in the proportion of one or two for each person.
In different parts of this work, especially under No.797, the subject has already been exhaustively treated; there is no need now, therefore, to go over the ground again.
Mould and poach theMousselines. Drain them, and set them in a circle on a round dish; place on each a fine slice of cooked fowl, and upon the latter a slice of truffle. Coat with Mornay sauce, glaze quickly, and, in the middle of themousselines, set a heap of asparagus-heads or small peas, cohered with butter.
Prepare themousselinesas above; set them in a circle on a round dish; coat with Indienne sauce, and serve a timbale of rice à l’Indienne separately.
When themousselinesare poached and dished, set upon each a fine collop ofsuprême, and coat with suprême sauce with paprika. Surround them with small timbales of pilaff rice combined withconcassedtomatoes cooked in butter.
Proceed as for “Mousselines Alexandra,” but coat them with suprême sauce, finished with crayfish butter. In their midst set a heap of asparagus-heads, cohered with butter, and upon these lay some fine slices of glazed truffles.
Prepare themousselinesas above, and set them, each on an oval tartlet, garnished with macaroni à la Napolitaine. Coat them with suprême sauce; besprinkle with grated Parmesan, and glaze quickly.
Prepare and poach themousselinesin the usual way. Garnish the bottom of somebarquetteswith Mornay sauce, and put amousselineinto eachbarquette.
Set a collop of fowl on eachmousseline, and cover them with a somewhat stiff preparation of soufflé au Parmesan (No.2295a), applied ornamentally by means of a piping-bag fitted with an even pipe. Put the sylphides in the oven, in order to cook thesoufflé, and serve instantly.
Proceed as for the sylphides; taking note only of this difference, viz., that the bottom of thebarquettesmust be garnished with shredded spinach stewed in butter. For the other details of the operation the procedure is the same.
Pilaff, which is the national dish of Orientals, gives rise to an endless number of recipes. The various curries of veal, lamb, and fowl are “pilaffs,” and all except the one “à la Parisienne,” which I give below, follow the same method of preparation—namely, that of curry; but for a change in the condiments and the treatment of the rice, which is not the same as that of “Riz à l’Indienne.”
Cut the fowl into small pieces, and fry it in mutton fat with three oz. of chopped onions. Sprinkle with one oz. of flour; moisten with one pint of white consommé; add two-thirds of a capsicum, cut into dice, and one and one-half oz. of currants and sultanas, and cook gently.
Dish in a timbale, and serve some pilaw rice separately.
Prepare the fowl as above, only flavour it with a little powdered ginger, and add three green braised and quartered capsicums to the sauce.
Serve a timbale of pilaff rice at the same time.
Cut up the fowl as for a fricassée; season it; fry it in butter, and add thereto three and one-half oz. of rice, browned in butter, with one chopped onion, a leaf of bay, and two peeled andconcassedtomatoes. Moisten with enough white broth to more than cover, and cook in a very hot oven for twenty-five minutes. At the end of this time the fowl and rice are cooked, and the rice should be quite dry.
Sprinkle then with one-sixth pint of veal stock; mix the latter with the pilaff by means of a fork, and dish with care in a timbale.
Serve a sauceboat of tomato sauce separately.
Prepare the fowl as for “Pilaw à la Parisienne,” and flavour with a little cayenne and another of saffron. Dish in a timbale.
N.B.—Pilaff may also be prepared with cooked fowl, cut into slices which are heated in butter. In this case, garnish the bottoms and sides of a timbale withtomatédpilaff rice; put the slices of fowl in the middle; cover with rice, and turn out the timbale on the dish.
Surround the timbale with a thread of tomato sauce.
For dinners on a large scale, it is in every way preferable to use raw chicken-meat. For small services, cooked chicken-meat suits perfectly.
N.B.—The time allowed for cooking chickensouffléswith cooked chicken-meat is comparatively long, and it is better to cook them a little too much than not enough.
For asoufflémade in a quart timbale, and cooked in a moderate oven as directed, allow from about twenty-five to thirty minutes.
Prepare two lbs. ofmousselineforcemeat of chicken, according to recipe No.195; add to this the whites of four eggs beaten to a stiff froth.
Dish in buttered timbales, and cook in a moderate oven.
Finely pound one lb. of the white of cooked chicken-meat; add thereto six tablespoonfuls of cold, reduced, Béchamel sauce. Rub through tammy.
Heat this preparation in a saucepan, without allowing it to boil, and add to it one and one-half oz. of butter, the yolks of five eggs, and the whites of six, beaten to a stiff froth.
Dish in a buttered timbale, and cook in a moderate oven.
Suprême sauce and the other derivatives of Allemande sauce form the best accompaniments to chickensoufflés.
This may be made from either one of the two above-mentioned preparations, but there must be added to it three and one-half oz. of chopped truffles. The preparation is then spread in layers separated by slices of truffle, which should weigh about three and one-half oz. in all, in order to be in proportion to the quantities already given.
Poach the pullet; raise thesuprêmesand remove their skin; slice them; coat them with white chaud-froid sauce, and decorate them soberly with pieces of truffle. Trim the carcass; coat it outside with white chaud-froid sauce, and fill it with a fine crayfishmousse, reconstructing it exactly in so doing.
Cause amousseto set in a refrigerator; place the collops of[532]suprêmeneatly upon it, in two rows, and between each row lay a dozen fine crayfish tails shelled and trimmed.
Coat the whole with half-melted aspic jelly; set in a deep dish; incrust the latter in a block of ice, and pour enough very good, melting aspic jelly (No.159) over the pullet to half-immerse it.
Stuff a pullet two days beforehand with a whole foie gras studded with truffles and stiffened in butter for twenty minutes.Poëleit in champagne; put it in acocotte; cover it with itspoëling-liquor, containing a sufficient addition of succulent jelly, and leave it to cool.
On the morrow remove, by means of a spoon, the grease that has settled on the jelly, and scald the latter twice or thrice with boiling water, in order to remove the last traces of grease.
Serve this pullet very cold, in the samecocottein which it has cooled.
Poach the pullet; let it cool in its cooking-liquor; cut it up, and clear the pieces of all skin. Dip the pieces in chaud-froid sauce, already prepared from the pullet’s cooking-liquor if possible, and arrange them on a tray. Decorate each piece with a fine slice of truffle; glaze with cold, melted jelly; leave to set, and trim the edges of the pieces, just before dishing them.
Old method of dishing: Formerly, chaud-froids were dished on a cushion of bread or rice, placed in the middle of a border of jelly; and, between each piece, cocks’ combs and mushrooms, covered with chaud-froid sauce or jelly, were set.
They were also dished on stearine tazzas, made in special moulds; but these methods, however much they may have been honoured by old cookery, are generally scouted at the present day.
The method of dishing detailed hereafter is steadily ousting them; it allows of serving much more delicate and more agreeable chaud-froids in the simplest possible way, and was inaugurated at my suggestion at the Savoy Hotel.
Modern method of dishing: Set the decorated pieces, coated with chaud-froid sauce, side by side on a layer of excellent aspic jelly, lying on the bottom of a deep square dish. Cover them with the same aspic, which should be half melted, and leave to set. When about to serve, incrust the dish in a block of carved ice, or surround it with the latter fragmented.
[533]This procedure allows of using less gelatinous products in the preparation of the aspic, and the latter is therefore much more delicate, mellow, and melting.
Having poached and cooled the pullets, raise thesuprêmes, and cut each into three or four collops. Garnish these collops, dome-fashion, with asalpiconconsisting of the meat cut from the carcass, combined with an equal quantity of salted tongue and truffle, and cohered with reduced chicken jelly.
Coat these collops with white chaud-froid sauce; sprinkle them immediately with very red tongue, truffle, gherkins, and hard-boiled white of egg; all chopped, mixed, and glazed with jelly.
Now set the collops in a deep, square silver dish, alternating them with oval slices of salted tongue.
Garnish their midst with a salad of French beans, cut lozenge-form and cohered with aspic.
Raise thesuprêmesof a fine pullet; cut them in two in the thick part, without separating them, and slightly flatten them. Lay them on a piece of linen; season them; and, on one of their halves, spread a layer of foie-gras purée thickened with a little chicken forcemeat. Upon this layer set some rectangles of raw foie gras, one-third in. thick; cover with purée, set some slices of truffle upon the latter; coat again with purée; moisten with white of egg, and over the whole press the other half of thesuprême. Wrap eachsuprême, prepared in this way, in a piece of muslin; poach them in a moderate oven, after having moistened them to within half their height with chicken stock; and leave them to cool in their cooking-liquor under slight pressure.
This done, take off the muslin, and cut eachsuprêmeinto ten or twelve medallions. Envelop each medallion in amousseof chicken made with the meat of the poached eggs, and leave to set. Then coat each medallion with white chaud-froid sauce, and deck each with a fine slice of truffle.
Clothea dome-mould with a fine chicken jelly, and decorate it with slices of truffle; put the medallions inside, proceeding as for an aspic, and leave to set.
When about to serve, turn out on a serviette.
Raise thesuprêmesof a poached pullet, and cool them under pressure.
[534]Then cut them into rectangles of equal sizes; and, if necessary, bisect them in the thickness.
Prepare a slab ofmousse(made from the legs and the trimmings), twice as thick as the rectangles. Smoothen thismousseneatly, and put it in the refrigerator that it may get firm. This done, cut it into pieces exactly equal in size to thesuprêmes; to do this, all that is necessary is to stick the latter on themousseby means of jelly.
Now coat eachsuprêmegarnished withmoussewith white chaud-froid sauce, and decorate with a bar of notes, imitated with truffles.
Set in a square, deep silver dish; cover with limpid and melting chicken jelly; leave to set, and serve the dish incrusted in a block of ice.
Prepare the pieces as for ordinary chaud-froid, and coat them with chaud-froid sauce combined with a quarter of its bulk of very smooth foie-gras purée. Decorate each piece with a lyre composed of truffle stamped out with a “lyre” fancy-cutter, set them on a deep, square dish, and cover with chicken jelly as above.
Completely bone the pullet’s breast, and stuff it with a preparation of chicken forcemeat (No.200). Sew up the piece, truss it as for an entrée, and poach it in a chicken stock.
When it is cold, trim it, and coat it with a white chaud-froid sauce, combined with a little almond milk. Glaze with aspic jelly, and set it, without decorating it, on a low cushion lying on a long dish.
Surround it with six small, hammoussesand six small, chickenmousses, moulded in deepdariole-moulds, and arranged alternately.
Border the dish withcroûtonsof jelly, cut very neatly.
Bone the breasts of three fair-sized chickens; stuff and poach them as explained above. When they are quite cold, cover them with white chaud-froid sauce; decorate with pieces of truffle; glaze with aspic jelly, and leave to set.
This done, set them upright on a dish, letting them lean one against the other. Between each chicken set a salted calf’s tongue, upright, with the tip of the tongue pointing upwards; and, on either side of the tongues, a large glazed truffle.
[535]Border the dish with finecroûtonsof jelly, and serve a mayonnaise sauce at the same time.
Poach the pullet and let it cool thoroughly.
Raise thesuprêmes, suppress the bones of the breast and garnish the cavity with a cold chickenmousse, combined with a quarter of its volume of foie-gras purée, shaping the latter in such wise as to reconstruct the bird.
Cut thesuprêmesinto thin, long slices; coat them with white chaud-froid sauce, and place them on themousse, pressing them lightly one upon the other. Deck with pieces of truffle; glaze with chicken jelly; set in a square, entrée dish, and surround with melted jelly.
When about to serve, incrust the dish in a block of ice.
Stuff the pullet with chicken forcemeat (No.200), combined with foie gras and truffles, cut into dice; poach it in chicken stock and let it cool. This done, coat the piece with white chaud-froid sauce, decorate with jelly, and leave to set.
Set the pullet on a cushion of rice, lying on a long dish. Behind the bird, arrange a fine, vegetable salad in a shell of carved rice, or in a large, silver shell.
Border the dish with neatly-cutcroûtonsof pale jelly.
Poach the pullet and, when it is quite cold, raise itssuprêmesand remove the bones of the breast. Coat the carcass with a white chaud-froid sauce; decorate as fancy may dictate; garnish with amousseof tomatoes (No.814), and arrange the latter in such wise as to reconstruct the bird.
Slice thesuprêmes; coat them with white chaud-froid sauce; decorate with truffles, and glaze with chicken jelly. Garnish with the samemousseas that already used for the pullet, as many small,barquette-moulds as there are chaud-froid-coated slices, and leave to set.
Put the pullets on a low cushion of rice, placed on a long dish; surround it with thebarquettesofmousse, turned out at the last moment; set a chaud-froid-coated slice on eachbarquette, and distributecroûtonsof jelly over the dish.
Having poached and cooled the pullet, raise itssuprêmes; cut these into collops, and coat them with white chaud-froid sauce. Trim the carcass, leaving the wings attached; garnish[536]it with very smooth and pink, hammousse, giving the latter the shape of the pullet, and put to set in the refrigerator.
Mould in small, oval moulds, as manybarquettesof the same hammousseas there are collops.
When themoussein the fowl has properly set, coat it with chaud-froid sauce, prepared with paprika of a fine, tender, pink shade; decorate according to fancy, and glaze with chicken jelly.
Set the pullet on a low cushion of rice, placed on a dish; place thebarquettesof hammoussearound it; set a collop on eachmousseand a fine slice of truffle on each collop, and border the dish withcroûtonsof aspic.
Poëlethe pullet in white wine, and leave it to cool in its cooking-liquor. This done, raise the fillets; cut them into regular slices; coat them with white chaud-froid sauce and decorate.
Meanwhile,sautéfifteen larks in amirepoix; remove the fillets of six of them; glaze them with brown, chaud-froid sauce, and decorate them with bits of hard-boiled white of egg.
With the remainder of the larks and five oz. of foie gras, prepare amousse, and use the latter for reconstructing the pullet as explained in the preceding recipes. When themoussehas set properly, coat it with brown, chaud-froid sauce. Arrange the chicken fillets, coated with white, chaud-froid sauce, on either side of themousse; in the middle put the larks’ fillets, coated with brown, chaud-froid sauce, and let them slightly overlap one another.
Set the pullet in a deep, square dish; surround it with melted, chicken jelly; let the latter set, and serve the dish incrusted in a block of ice.
Bone the pullet all but the legs, and stuff it with a forcemeat consisting of: three and one-half oz. of veal; three and one-half oz. of fresh pork fat; three and one-half oz. ofgratinforcemeat, prepared from fowls’ livers; two tablespoonfuls of brandy; two tablespoonfuls of truffle essence, and the yolk of an egg.
In the midst of the stuffing, set half of a raw foie gras and one raw, quartered truffle on each side. Reconstruct the pullet; truss it as for an entrée; cover it with slices of bacon, andpoëlein Madeira for one and one-half hours.
Leave to half-cool in the cooking-liquor; withdraw the pullet; remove the slices of bacon, and put it in aterrinejust large enough to hold it.
[537]Add a little chicken jelly to the bird’s cooking-liquor, which should not have been cleared of grease, but merely strained through a napkin; and pour this sauce over the pullet.
Do not serve until twenty-four hours have elapsed, and clear of grease as directed under “Poularde au Champagne” (No.1688).
Serve theterrinein a block of ice, or on a dish with broken ice all round.
Prepare the pullet as explained above, and put it in a box just large enough to hold it. Seal up the box; mark the top with a bit of tin; put it in a stewpan with enough water to cover it, and boil for two hours.
This done, withdraw the box and cool it, placing it upside down, that the grease may be at the bottom and the breast coated with jelly.
Poach a chicken à la Reine; let it cool; raise itssuprêmesand leave the humerus bones attached, after having duly cleared them of all meat; skin thesuprêmes, and coat them with a little jelly.
Garnish a timbale, just large enough to hold the two wings, half-way up with crayfishmousse. Upon thismousse, set the twosuprêmes, opposite one another, and between them set a row of shelled and trimmed crayfishes’ tails, cooked as for bisque. Cover the whole with a succulent half-set chicken jelly, and place in the refrigerator for two hours.
Poach three fleshy, spring chickens, taking care to have thesuprêmesjust cooked. Leave to cool, and raise the wings as in the preceding recipe, trim them and coat them with jelly.
With the meat of three legs, prepare a chickenmousse, and mould it in a dome-mould. When themousseis set, turn it out on a dish, and place the wings all round, fixing them on themousse, with their points upwards, by means of a little half-set jelly.
Cover themousseon top, and the gaps between the points of thesuprêmeswith chopped truffle and chopped tongue, laid alternately. In the middle of themousse, set a fine, glazed truffle, pierced by a smallhatelet.
Clothea border mould with aspic jelly, in accordance with the procedure described under “Aspic de Homard” (No.954),[538]and decorate it with large slices of truffles. Fill the mould with a coarsejulienneof chicken fillets, salted tongue and truffles, spread in successive layers and besprinkled with cold, melted aspic.
When about to serve, turn out the aspic on a very cold dish; set a salad “à l’Italienne” in its midst, and serve a Rémoulade sauce separately.
Clothean ornamented mould with jelly, and decorate its bottom and sides with truffles. Fill it with successive and alternate layers of: aspic jelly, collops of chicken fillets, cocks’ combs coated with brown, chaud-froid sauce, fine cocks’ kidneys, coated with white chaud-froid sauce, and slices of salted tongue cut into oval shapes.
When about to serve, turn out, and surround with finecroûtonsof aspic.
Prepare some chickensuprêmesas explained under “Chaud-froid Félix Faure” (No.1691), and cut them into collops. Trim these collops with a round, even cutter, and coat them with aspic.
Prepare amoussefrom the meat of the legs. Spread thismousseon a tray in a layer one-third in. thick and leave it to set. When it is quite firm, stamp it out with a round, even cutter, dipped in hot water, and a little larger than the one used in trimming the collops.
Set a medallion on each roundel ofmousse, fixing it there by means of a little half-set jelly, and arrange the medallion prepared in this way on a square dish.
In their midst set a fine faggot of asparagus-heads; fill the gaps betweenthe medallions with a garnish consisting of a salad of asparagus-heads with cream.
Serve on a block of ice or surround the dish with ice.
For galantines, fowls may be used which are a little too tough to be roasted, but old fowls should be discarded. The latter invariably yield a dry forcemeat, whatever measures one may take in the preparation.
The fowl should be cleaned but not emptied, and it should be carefully boned; the process beginning from an incision down the skin of the back, from the head to the tail.
This done, carefully remove the meat with the point of a[539]small, sharp knife, until the carcass is quite bare. Cut off the wings and the legs, flush with the articulations of the trunk; remove all the meat that the skin may be quite clean, and spread the skin on a clean piece of linen. Trim the meat of the breast, cut it into pieces one-third inch square, and put the resulting trimmings aside.
Season these pieces andmarinadethem in a few drops of brandy; prepare other pieces of the same size and length from four oz. of truffles; six oz. of salted, fat pork; four oz. of cooked ham, and four oz. of salted and cooked ox-tongue. Then clear the meat of the legs of all tendons; add to it the trimmings cut from the breast, as much very white veal and twice as much very fat, fresh pork; season these meats with salt, pepper and nutmeg; chop them up very finely; pound them, and rub them through a sieve. Add the brandy in which the fillets weremarinaded.
Spread a layer, three in. wide, of this forcemeat along the whole of the middle of the chicken’s skin; upon this layer of forcemeat set the strips of bacon, fowl, truffle, ham, and tongue, arranging them alternately and regularly; upon them spread another layer of forcemeat, equal to the first; then another layer of the various pieces, and finally cover and envelop the whole in what remains of the forcemeat.
Draw the skin of the fowl over the whole and completely wrap the former round the latter. Carefully sew up the edges of the skin, and roll the galantine in a napkin, either end of which should be tightly strung.
With six lbs. of shin of veal, one-half lb. of freshblanchedpork rind, and the fowl’s carcass, prepare a white veal stock (No.10). When this stock has cooked for about five hours, add the galantine to it, and gently cook the latter for about one and one-quarter hours.
At the end of this time take the galantine off the fire; drain it on a dish, and let it cool for ten minutes; remove the napkin in which it has cooked, and roll it in another one which should be similarly tied at both ends. This done, put the galantine to cool under a weight not exceeding five or six lbs.
The cooking-liquor, once it has been cleared of grease and clarified as for an aspic (No.158), constitutes a jelly which accompanies the galantine. When the latter is quite cold, remove the napkin covering it, trim it neatly at either end; coat it with half-melted jelly, and dish it on a low cushion of carved rice. Finally, decorate it as fancy may dictate with pieces of jelly.