CHAP. VIII.PROVINCE OF ST. CATHARINA.
Boundaries—Colonization—Productions—Mountains—Mineralogy—Phytology—Zoology—Rivers, Lakes, and Ports—Towns, Parishes, &c.—Agricultural Establishments—Population—Islands—Delightful Climate.
Boundaries—Colonization—Productions—Mountains—Mineralogy—Phytology—Zoology—Rivers, Lakes, and Ports—Towns, Parishes, &c.—Agricultural Establishments—Population—Islands—Delightful Climate.
This province, which is a dismemberment of that of St. Paulo, subsequent to the latter receiving the addition of a part of St. Amaro and of St. Vincente, comprehends the island which gives it the name, and a territory of sixty leagues from north to south on the neighbouring continent, reckoning from the Sahy, which separates it from St. Paulo on the north, to the Mampituba, which divides it from the province of Rio Grande on the south; on the west it has the same provinces, the heads of the cordillera, running parallel with the sea, constituting a boundary on that side. Its greatest width does not exceed twenty leagues, occupying the Beira-Mar, or sea-coast, of the greatest portion of the ci-devant capitania of St. Amaro; and lying between 25° 50′, and 29° 20′ south latitude.
A period of one hundred and twenty years elapsed without the donatories establishing any colonists in the island of St. Catharina, which, for some time had the name of Isle of Patos. King John IV. gave it, in the year 1654, to Francisco Dias Velho, who was assassinated by an English pirate at the time the establishment began. In consequence of this disaster, the island long remained in its primitive state. Eventually, various colonists from the Azores were established in it, at the cost of the crown.
The climate is delightfully temperate and salubrious, with the exception of certain marshy situations. The face of the country is mountainous, watered by numerous rivers, and overspread with woods. The soil is fertile and well adapted to the culture of mandioca, Indian corn, rice, sugar, coffee, flax, and vegetables. Wheat and barley are likewise grown in some districts. All the hortulans of the south of Europe prosper here, particularly onions.
Mountains.—Camberella, which is upon the southern entrance of the portof the capital, is the highest mountain seen from Santo to theTorres[18]or Towers. The mountain of Bahul is a land-mark for navigators.
Mineralogy.—Calcareous stones, granite,pedras d’amolar, or whetstone. It is said there are indications of gold and other metals.
Phytology.—The oak tree is here more diversified than in the mother country, and excellent for building. The sassafras, cedar,loiro,pau d’arco, and those calledguarabuandgrapecique, are trees of precious wood, well adapted for cabinet work; likewise the tree denominated herepau d’oleo, having the grain close and nicely waved. The Brazilian pine is numerous in various districts. There are a diversity of medicinal plants; likewise the plant that nurtures the cochineal, which has been fully described by many writers. It is an insect, and feeds upon the leaves of theopuncia; its size is so diminutive at first, that it scarcely can be seen, but it soon moves and fixes upon a part of the plant, from which it does not remove, and becomes gradually covered with a white skin, so that the body, which is scarlet, is no longer seen. In three months it arrives at maturity, and is not larger than a small pea; there are various modes of cultivating it, and great care is required to keep off other insects which destroy it. This is an article of considerable commerce and might be cultivated to a great extent in the Brazil.
Zoology.—Cattle do not abound in consequence of the mountainous nature of the country. Amongst other wild quadrupeds, are well known the deer, thetamandua, the monkey, the boar, theounce, theanta, thepaca, and thequaty. Amongst numerous species of birds are remarked the parrot, the macuco partridge, therola, or turtle, theguara, and various sorts of the humming bird calledcolibri, orbeija-flor. The lakes abound with wild ducks and geese. An infinite variety of beautiful butterflies are seen in this province, to delight the eye, and engage the research of the naturalist. The air appears filled with floating flowers.
Rivers, Lakes, and Ports.—The first are generally of a short extent. About three miles north-north-east of the Towers is the mouth of the Mampituba, about one hundred fathoms wide, which was called for some time the Martim Affonso. It is not more than seven leagues long, being formed of various streams that descend from the cordillera; its current is violent, but sumacas, or smacks, ascend with the tide twelve miles to the port of Forquilhas. Byits northern margin it receives the waters of a lake, which is about five leagues long, and one broad, extending parallel with the sea-coast as far as the Campos das Lagoinhas, from thence it has another outlet to the sea, by a channel called Arroyo Grande.
Near the situation denominated the Conventos, there is a serro of rock moderately elevated, and terminating in a platform near the beach, about six leagues distant from the Mambituba. Six miles further, the river Ararangua enters the sea, and is navigable for the space of five leagues to the Tres Portos, where it is one hundred fathoms wide, and deeper than at the bar, having a rapid current from the month of June to September. Three leagues beyond the preceding, the river Urussanga disembogues, being more extensive, and much more rapid when its waters are high; no vessel can enter its mouth, in consequence of the sea breaking with great violence upon a bank which crosses it. Higher up it is wider, and has four fathoms of depth in some places. This river communicates with a large and deep lake, where thebotoand other large fish are seen, which come up from the ocean; it lies northward of the river. Five leagues further is the rock of St. Martha, where the coast changes its direction to the north. Three leagues to the north of the Morro, or rock of St. Martha, is the spacious bay of Laguna, formerly the river Da Lagoa, (of the Lake) which is the mouth of the river Tubarao, and together the outlet of various lakes, prolonged in a chain parallel with the ocean, and at no considerable distance from it. This river rises in the serra that bounds this province, and its current is rapid from April to September. Canoes proceed up it a distance of eight or nine leagues to Porto da Guarda; butsumacasdo not pass the mouth of the river Capibary, which joins it by the left bank, and is navigable for a space of eight leagues to Pouzo Alto. On the northern margin of the Tubarao is the outlet of the great lake Laguna, which is five leagues long from north to south, near two at the greatest width, and is of sufficient depth for sumacas, as far as its northern extremity. On the southern bank of the Tubarao, in front of the outlet of the Laguna, is that of the lake of St. Martha, which lake is a quarter of a league square. On its southern side the lake Garopaba discharges itself, is about the same size, and one league distant. Into the latter the outlet of the lake Jaguaruna disembogues, which is two leagues further to the southward, and a little larger. The three together afford a passage to large canoes, as far as the river Congonhas, which is not considerable, and empties itself into the western margin of the latter lake. They are comprehended under the name of the lakes of Camacho, and abound in fish.
On the western side of the Laguna, and near its northern extremity, the river Una discharges itself, and affords navigation to canoes for some leagues, as far as the rock of St. Joam. An arm of this river extends a league and a half to the north, is deep, and terminates in a morass.
In front of the embouchure of the Laguna is the small island of Lobos. Four leagues to the north is the point and port of the Embituba, and two farther is the mouth of the river Piraquera, which is the outlet of the lake of the same name, otherwise Encantada, four miles long and one wide.
Continuing onward, the river Embahu is met with, which at its mouth is only eight fathoms wide, but it gradually increases to more than eighty fathoms; canoes can proceed up during a day’s voyage.
Two miles farther to the north is the point of Pinheira, which is followed by the gulf of the same name, being the southern entrance to the channel of the island of St. Catharina; its southern extremity is a league to the north of the said point.
Near six miles to the north of Point Pinheira, the Massambu disembogues, being thirty fathoms wide, and of considerable depth, but of short extent: Rio Dom Rodrigo was its first designation. After it follows a small bay, called Brito, and a little farther is the entrance of the river Cubatao, sixty fathoms wide, up which larger canoes proceed during two days’ voyage. In the proximity of this river there are various fountains of hot water, having different degrees of heat: the most distant one, situated five leagues up the river, possesses one hundred and two degrees.
After passing various small rivers, the river Maruhy is met with, as large as the preceding one, and navigable to the place denominated Guarda. Near this river is the bay of St. Joze. A little to the north is a straight, which divides the channel into two almost equal parts; and a little farther is the entrance of the river Biguassu, fifty fathoms in width, and up which canoes proceed for many leagues. The first discoverers called it the river of Patos, in consequence of its constituting a limit between the Indians of that name, who extended themselves as far as the St. Pedro, and the Carijos to the north as far as Cannanea.
The large bay of St. Miguel follows; afterwards, the point of Armacao; and, farther on, that of Ganchos, which lies east and west of the extremity of the island of St. Catharina, and is to the southward of the spacious bay of Tejucas, at the farther end of which the river of the same name discharges itself, being fifty fathoms wide, and affording two days’ navigation. The surrounding country of the bay of Tejucas is a morass or marshyplain in the winter, when its passage is attended with great labour and inconvenience.
To the north of the preceding is the bay of Guaroupas, open to the north-east, not so large, but sufficiently sheltered and capacious for the reception of a squadron of ships; the river Bupeba runs into it, as well as the two Pireques. The intervening land of those two bays is a peninsula, which extends to the sea, terminating in three points, and forming two small bays.
Proceeding northward, the next river is the Cambory-Guassu, rapid at its entrance into the sea, and being twenty fathoms in width. Nearly three leagues farther is the embouchure of the great river Tajahy, which is little less than sixty fathoms in width at the passage a short distance from the beach. It is the only river met with on the road from Portalegre to St. Paulo that flows towards the east; thesumacasproceed up only three miles, launches and large canoes navigate freely as far as the first fall. About one hundred and twenty yards above it becomes navigable for the space of three days, by towing, and as many more with the oar, to the next cataract. It rises between the river Negro and the Correntes, (which run to westward.) In its neighbourhood there are many small mountains. The principal confluents which enlarge it are the Rio de Luiz Alves (which comes from the north-west, runs near the mountain of Bahul, seen from the sea at a great distance, and is navigable for small canoes) and the Tajahy Mirim, which runs from the south-west, navigable for canoes about ten leagues. The whole flow through countries of great fertility.
Five miles farther to the north is the river Gravata, otherwise Iriri-Guassu, thirty fathoms wide, and navigable for canoes. It is followed by the spacious bay of Itapacoroya, where there is an establishment for whale fishing. Proceeding onwards, the Iriri Mirim and the Camboriu are met with, up which canoes also navigate with the aid of the tide. Near to the latter is the Tajuba, a river of a similar class.
Three leagues to the north of the Itapacoroya the river Itapicu disembogues, being fifty fathoms wide, and of considerable depth. Its origin is far back in the province, and affords navigation to small canoes for many leagues, without the interruption of more than one cataract, which is situated ten miles above the mouth. The agitated state of the sea at the mouth of this river does not permit the entrance of any description of vessel. Immediately beyond the bar it forms a lake, called Lagoa da Cruz, two leagues long from north to south, parallel with the beach, and very narrow. Among the rivers which enlarge it are remarked the Piranga, which is received by the left bank, and is navigableby canoes for a space of five leagues; the Upitanga, which joins it by the right margin, and is only navigable for six miles; the Itapicu Mirim, that comes from the north-west and admits of navigation for about fifteen miles; the Jaragua, which flows from the south-west, and appears capable of allowing small vessels to proceed as far as a situation about four leagues above its mouth; and the Braço, which descends from the north-west, and admits of canoes for the space of six miles. All these rivers run by winding courses among mountains and uncultivated territories, thickly wooded, demonstrating the natural fertility of the soil. The Itapicu is supposed to be the river of Dragons, which the discoverers placed to the south of the river St. Francisco in this district.
Five miles to the north of Itapicu is the island of St. Francisco, six leagues long, and in the form of a bow, the right line of which is nearest the coast; the channel which separates it from the continent is improperly called the river of St. Francisco. The southern entrance is denominated Aracary, is two hundred fathoms wide, has only depth for large boats, and on its outside are the three islands of Remedios and two of Tamboretes. The northern bar, called Babitonga, is fifteen hundred fathoms wide and deep enough for largesumacas.[19]At the end of the sixteenth century it was not known that the land between the bar of Aracary and Babitonga was an island; they were thought to be two mighty rivers, the southern called the St. Francisco and the northern the Alagado. The channel, or the pretended river St. Francisco, of a semicircular form, enlarges considerably from both mouths to the middle, where it is three miles wide, and contains a cluster of more than twenty islands. A great number of rivers empty themselves here. The nearest to the bar of Aracary is the Piraque, having a course of five leagues, five fathoms in width at the mouth, and affords navigation to canoes for three miles; next to it is the Pinheiros, still smaller; then the Paraty, which is thirty fathoms wide at the bar, two and a half in depth, and navigable for about a league. The little river Areas, narrow and deep, is navigable for two miles. The great river Areas, up which canoes proceed with the tide for some distance. The river Parannagua, whose origin approximates to that of the Pirango, an arm of the Itapicu: coasting vessels proceed up it a short way, large boats about two miles, and canoes nearly five miles. Next follow the Saguaçu; the two Erirys; the Cubatao Grande, twenty fathoms wide, three deep, and navigable for ten leagues to the high rock of Tromba; the Antonio Felis; the Ribeyrao; the Biguaçu; the Pyrabyréba;the Cavalinhos, by which canoes proceed for a space of ten miles; the Tres-Barras, so called in consequence of being the common embouchure of the three rivers of Furtaenchente, St. Joam, and Tres Barras, the second only being considerable, (its principal confluents are the Maria Bachaara and the Farinhas, which come from the serra of Curytiba, and afford navigation to canoes;) the Barrancos, Bacuhy, Lamen, Batuby, Fornos, Fernandes, Barboza, and the two Jaugarunas, the smaller of which is nearest to the northern point of the bar of Babitonga. The nine last, and several of the others are small, being only of any note during the spring tides. The whole of these rivers generally run tamely between low banks, of a marshy nature, abounding with considerable numbers of the beautiful scarletguarabird, which delight the eye of the navigators. In some of these rivers are found seed pearls of various colours, also large pearls of an imperfect kind.
The island of St. Francisco is low, watered with various small rivers, and inhabited; on its eastern side there is a narrow lake, ten miles long from north to south, denominated the river Acarahy; and near it another small one. Two leagues north of the bar of Babitonga is the river Sahy Mirim, and the same distance farther the Sahy Grande, both inconsiderable, uniting in one stream a little above their embouchures.
The greatest part of the population of this province is descended from families who came from the Azore Islands, for the purpose of colonizing it. Negroes are not numerous, and mesticos still less so. The aboriginal Patos, whose name the island at first had, penetrated into the continent. The Carijos were the first tribe understood by the Vincentistas, and hence their name was given in common to all domesticated Indians, of whatever nation.
This province has three towns,viz.
and seven parishes, namely,
The hermitages are equal in number to the parishes.
In 1796, this province was computed to have
In the year 1812, the population amounted to 31,530.
Islands.—The only considerable islands are that which gives the name to the province and that of St. Francisco. The island of St. Catharina, upwards of thirty miles long from north to south, and from four to eight in width, is mountainous, abounding with water, yet in parts covered with woods, and does not want for stone or potters’ earth. Between its mountains there are some cultivated plains, of greater or less extent, and also many marshy situations. There are many bays, and they abound with shells. On the eastern side there is a lake two leagues long from north to south, deep in some places, and at a certain part so contracted that it appears like two, united by a neck fifty fathoms wide, having a large bridge. When in the winter it begins to inundate the adjacent low grounds, the inhabitants in the vicinity open a channel to discharge the overflowing water into a bay, situated at a little distance, and which is immediately filled up again by the flowing of the tide, when the current ceases, during which a great quantity of fish enter from the ocean. It consequently affords at all times an abundant supply. At its northern extremity, there is a small river called Vermelho, near which the best water-melons of the province are produced. To the south of the preceding, there are three other lakes: the Lagoinha Grande, the Pantano, and the Lagoinha de Leste. The whole are stored with the same fish as the first. Mandioca and flax are the principal articles of agriculture, which is generally exercised by white men, who also cultivate Indian corn, rice, coffee, vegetables, sugar, and some cotton, which is not of good quality. Some fruit trees from the south of Europe are here naturalized. Water-melons, pine-apples, and oranges are very abundant. The principal streams in this island are the Vermelho, the Ratones, which enters the sea two leagues north of the capital, and the Tavares, three miles south-east of the capital. The country, watered by the last river, produces the best melons in the province.
The channel which separates this island from the continent is far from being of uniform width, forming two large ports, almost equal in size, and separated by a straight of two hundred fathoms between two points. The northern and larger port, ten miles wide, having depth for ships of war, is one of the best in South America, and the key to the southern ocean. The wind prevails from the south during the winter, which commences generally in May and ends in October. Thunder-storms are frequent in the summer; all the afternoons here are refreshed by strong sea breezes, rendering the climate of this island equal to any in the world.
Near to the southern point of St. Catharina are six small islands. The three western ones are called the Papagúos, and the eastern the Tres Ismaos. The islands of Moleques, Campeche, Xavier, Aranhas, and Badejo are situated upon the eastern coast of the island of St. Catharina. Near its northern point are three, called the Moleques. Five miles north of the same point are the islands of Arvoredo and Galle. Within the principal port, amongst others, are the islands of Tomarim, near the coast of the continent, and the Ratones, almost in front of the river of the same name, both fortified. In the southern port are the islands of Cardos and Maruhy.
The town of Nosso Senhora do Desterro, the capital of the province, is considerable, populous, and situated on the western side of the island of St. Catharina, upon a bay a little to the east-south-east of the straight, on unequal land between two rocks, traversed by three small rivers, which are passed by various stone bridges. The streets are almost generally irregular, and the houses either of stone or wood. Besides a church, it has the chapels of Menino Deos, Our Lady of Rozario, a Terceira order of St. Francisco d’Assis, and a hospital of charity. The quarters of the troops are good. The senate is presided by aJuiz de Fora, and the youth are instructed by royal masters in the primitive letters and Latin, for whose benefit there is a tribute in rum. Potteries afford a branch of industry and commerce. Coarse cloths of linen and cotton, also a mixture of both, are manufactured.
The parish of Nosso Senhora das Necessidades, better known by the name of St. Antonio, is five miles north of the capital, and small, but its situation is particularly pleasant. The inhabitants cultivate sugar, mandioca, Indian corn, some flax, and various hortulans. A little more than three miles to the north is the bay Das Canavieiras (of canes or reeds.) Here the Spaniards disembarked in 1777, and took possession of the island without the least resistance.
The parish of Nosso Senhora da Conceiçao is situated about a league to theeast of the capital, upon a steep, a little distant from the large lake, enjoying an extensive view of the ocean. Its parishioners cultivate sugar and mandioca, with the other provisions of the country. In this district there is an establishment for whale fishing.
Two leagues to the south of the capital is the parish of Nosso Senhora da Lapa, situated near the mouth of a small river, in the recess of a semicircular bay, and in front of an island. It is commonly calledRobeira, has abundance of fish, and the provisions of the country.
Laguna is a middling town, advantageously situated upon the eastern margin of the lake from which it derives the name. It is two miles from the bar, near a small hill, from whence descend excellent waters. The form of this place is quadrilateral, with three parallel streets, crossed by others, and a square at one side, in which the municipal house is situated. It has only one church, dedicated to St. Antonio dos Anjos, and a great part of the houses are of stone, some one story high, and whitened with the lime of shells. The inhabitants cultivate the usual productions of the country. The lake is stored with fish, and in the months of November and December a prodigious quantity ofbagre(a long fish with a forked tail) enter it, supplying a lucrative branch of commerce. This town is sixty miles south of the capital. From its port, which receives coasting vessels, is exported farinha, rice, Indian corn, timber, and salt fish.
About fifteen miles north of Laguna, and near fifty south of the capital, is the parish of St. Anna, commonly known by the name of Villa Nova, a small place, pleasantly situated upon an elevation near the northern extremity of the same lake, with two ports, one called Porto da Embituba, sheltered on the south and east by a headland of the same name, where there is a small whale fishery, subject to the administration of that of Garopaba. The houses are generally of wood, although there is abundance of stone. Its inhabitants, amongst whom there are manymacilentos, (meagre or spare,) cultivate the productions common to the country, and a large quantity of flax, having, consequently, more weavers of that article than any other place in the province. Onions are of an extraordinary size, and other hortulans of a fine quality.
The parish of Nosso Senhora do Rozario, which is upon the bay of Brito, between two small brooks, thirty-five miles north of St. Anna, and ten south of the capital, is yet small, and its parishioners cultivate mandioca, Indian corn, and sugar, and also are fishermen. In its district there are hot springs.
Four miles to the south-east of the capital, and one distant from the left bankof the Maruhy, is the parish of St. Joze, upon a bay of the same name, with a pottery of glazed earthenware. The inhabitants grow the same articles as the preceding.
Eight miles north-west of the capital is the pleasant parish of St. Miguel, upon a bay so called, which forms a good roadstead. Its inhabitants cultivate and export a large quantity of rice and farinha, with some sugar. Near this place is the principal establishment for whale fishing.
The town of St. Francisco is of middling size, well supplied with fish and the provisions of the country, with houses mostly built of earth, and a handsome church of stone, dedicated to Our Lady da Graca. It is upon the western beach of the island of that name, about ten miles within the bar of Babitonga, upon level ground, and in a situation well calculated for commerce. Only two streets are paved. The inhabitants, generally whites, are very pale, and almost all farmers of mandioca. The cultivation of Indian corn, rice, sugar, coffee, and tobacco, which might be considerable, is at present very trifling. There are few persons who do not possess at least one canoe. Vessels are built here of good burden. Timber and cordage ofimbeare the most important exportations next to farinha (flour of mandioca.)
This province, which makes a part of the bishopric of Rio de Janeiro, was till recently under the jurisdiction of the ouvidor of Portalegre, but is now governed by Senhor Alexandre Eloi Portelli.