CHAP. XVIII.PROVINCE OF PARAHIBA.
Extent—Capitania of Itamaraca—Slow Advancement—Taken by the Dutch—Restoration—Capes and Ports—Rivers—Mountains—Zoology—Phytology—Povoaçoes—Capital—British Establishments—Produce.
Extent—Capitania of Itamaraca—Slow Advancement—Taken by the Dutch—Restoration—Capes and Ports—Rivers—Mountains—Zoology—Phytology—Povoaçoes—Capital—British Establishments—Produce.
This province was originally the capitania of Itamaraca, or rather it comprehends almost two-thirds of it, not comprising at the present day more than sixty miles of coast, computing from the river Goyanna to the bay of Marcos, which is three miles to the north of the river Camaratiba; the province of Pernambuco having taken twenty to twenty-five miles from it on the southern side, and Rio Grande fifteen to twenty on the northern.
The capitania of Itamaraca was never more than a portion of that which John III. gave to Pedro Lopez de Souza in 1534. The other portion of this donation selected in the immediate vicinity of his brother’s capitania of St. Vincente, was denominated St. Amaro; and Itamaraca, being situated at so great a distance from it, experienced less attention, and was so much neglected that, forty years afterwards, there was not an establishment except in the island of Itamaraca, where the colonists did not exceed two hundred families, with three sugar works; and the French entered without interruption the ports of the continent in search of Brazil wood.
It is affirmed that the parish of Nossa Senhora of Conceiçao, in the island of Itamaraca, was the first povoaçao, and also for a considerable period the capital of the capitania; but, as the year of its foundation is not known, we are left in ignorance as to the precise epoch of the disembarkation of the first colonists.
In the short reign of King Henry, in consequence of the incapacity of the donatory to promote its colonization, Joam Tavarez was ordered by the governor-general, Lourenco da Veyga, to proceed to this capitania, for the purpose of founding a prezidio in the island of Camboa, situated in the river Parahiba; which was removed by Captain Fructicozo Barboza to the situation of Cabedello, where being greatly annoyed by the Indians, Manuel Telles, governor ofBahia, despatched Diogo Baldez, in the year 1583, to afford him the necessary succour. The Indians and the French, who were their auxiliars, sustained a defeat; and Francisco Castrejon, commandant of a fort, which he had then constructed, would not recognise Fructicozo Barboza as superior, which induced the latter to retire, and the result was an invasion by the Indians, who compelled Castrejon to desert this post.
On his arrival at Pernambuco, Barboza returned with some companies, and having restored all the fortifications, he gave the origin to a povoaçao, which in the year 1585 was ennobled with the title of city, and called Fillippea. Its population had already arrived at seven hundred families, with twenty sugar works, when the Dutch, who had obtained possession of Pernambuco and Itamaraca, determined to conquer it.
After various attempts, during two years, which were always frustrated, it fell into the hands of General Segismundo Escup, in consequence of the capitulation of the fort of Cabedello, on the 19th of December, 1634, who substituted for it the appellation of Margarida, in honour of a Dutch matron. With its reduction, and the surrender of the fort of St. Antonio four days after, the whole province passed under the dominion of the Dutch, till their evacuation of this part of the Brazil in the year 1654.
It lies between 6° 15′ and 7° 15′ south latitude, and extends two hundred and ten miles at its greatest width from east to west.
The longest day in the year does not exceed twelve hours and a half. The winter commences at the equinox of March, and continues till July, and is never severe. The climate is warm, but refreshed by the delightful breezes with which it is visited from the sea. More than two-thirds of the face of the country, generally uneven, consists of catingas, the remainder is of strong substantial and fertile soils, covered with extensive woods, principally upon serras of the greatest elevation, and in the vicinities of some rivers; and it is only in those latter districts, partially divested of their primitive sylvan shades, that cultivation is to be seen, comprised in plantations of the cotton tree, sugar cane, mandioca, Indian corn, legumes, tobacco, with some rice; and also the hortulans and fruits peculiar to the climate, including the pine-apple, water-melon, banana, and the orange, which are of excellent flavour.
Capes and Islands.—Point Cabedello, south of the embouchure of the river Parahiba; Point Lucena, six miles north of the preceding; and Cape Branco, fifteen miles south of the first, are the principal.
There are no islands upon the coast of this province but in the mouths of rivers or the entrances of bays, and they are generally small.
Ports.—That within the river Parahiba is the most frequented. The bay of Traicao, originally Acejutibiro, in the form of a half moon, with three entrances formed by two small islands, almost eight miles in width, having a small river at the extremity, is deemed the best port of the province, and capable of receiving a considerable number of small vessels. The northern entrance is almost two miles in width. From this bay a reef extends nearly eighteen miles to Cape Branco, between which and the beach there are nine and ten fathoms of depth, where vessels anchor in smooth water, protected from the agitation of the ocean by this recife, which is a portion of the celebrated chain extending along the coast, elevating its head occasionally above the water, as at Pernambuco, and in other latitudes.
The bay of Lucena, on the northern side of the point of the same name, is large, with a good anchorage, but is exposed to winds prevailing from north to east.
Rivers.—The Parahiba, from which the province takes its name, originates in the district of the Cayriris Velhos, in the skirts of the serra of Jabitaca, near the source of the Capibaribe, runs to the east-north-east, and is considerable only in the vicinity of the ocean, into which it is discharged by two mouths, separated by the island of St. Bento, which is about three miles in extent. As the territory in which it rises is of a sandy nature, it becomes a stream in that district only during the period of the rains, nor does it receive till after half its course, any of those tributary currents which render it navigable for a considerable space. Ships advance up only a few miles, sumacas to the capital, and canoes as far as the town of Pilar. From hence upwards, its bed is stony, with many falls and currents rendering difficult or entirely impeding navigation. It does not abound in any part with fish. In the proximity of the sea it is wide and handsome, the margins being adorned with mangroves.
The Guarahu, which is the largest of its confluents, unites it on the left, not far from the capital.
The Mamanguape, which is handsome, and affords an advantageous navigation to the planters upon its adjacent lands, enters the ocean by two mouths, divided by a flat island covered with mangroves, between which and the chain of reefs, which arrests all the fury of the sea, there is an excellent anchorage place, where vessels lie in dead water, to which a narrow aperture amongst thereefs affords a passage, with three fathoms of depth, and is little more than ten miles to the north of Point Lucena.
The Grammame, originally Guaramama, which discharges itself between Port Francez and Cape Branco, has a large wooden bridge over it, on the road from Goyanna to the city of Parahiba. It is only navigable as far as the tide advances.
The Cammaratiba, which enters the sea ten miles north of the bay of Traicao, and the Popoca, which discharges itself six miles to the north of the Goyanna, are also navigable with the tide.
In the western part is the Piranhas, which has acquired the name of the fish with which it abounds. Its source is at the base of the serra of Cayriris, and after seventy miles of course to the north, it gathers on the left the river Peixe, which comes from the serra of Luiz Gomez, with fifty miles of extent, always flowing through campinhas, where there are a great many emu-ostriches, and in its vicinity have been found gold and silver. Twenty-five miles below this confluence, it receives on the right the Pinhanco, which is little inferior to it, also flowing from the serra of Cayriris, in a serpentine course through an extensive district, abounding with cattle belonging to various fazendeiros, or breeders, who live dispersed about in different situations. After a long course, having become considerable by other streams, it enters the province of Rio Grande in its way to the ocean.
Mountains.—Almost all the mountains with which this province is interspersed, are arms of the serra Borborema, commencing near the sea, within the province of Rio Grande, which traverse it from north-east to south-west, dividing it into two parts, east and west. The latter, denominated Cayriris Novas, is an elevated country, and being refreshed with winds is wholesome, and also considerably wider than the eastern portion. January, February, March, and April, are here the most rainy months.
In the serra of Teyxeira, which is a portion of the Borborema, there are some inscriptions with green ink, in characters unknown to the adjacent inhabitants, but which are reputed to be the work of the Dutch, or the Flamengos, as they are yet called here.
Zoology.—All the domestic animals of the Portuguese peninsula, multiply here without degenerating much. In the woods are seen theanta, deer, ounce, boar, monkey,quaxinin,preguica, or sloth,paca,quaty, and other quadrupeds common to the neighbouring provinces. There is here a species of ferret, the size of a cat, and resembling thequaty, with which the hunters drawfrom their burrows themocoand thepreha. If the animal perceive a snake in the hole it will not enter. It does not appear to be known southward of the St. Francisco. Amongst the birds are observed the emu-ostrich,seriema,jacu,zabele, quail, parrot,rolla,sabia, troquaze pigeon, canary,cardal, wild duck,colhereira, heron,jaburu,socco, a diversity of themacarico, and the sparrowhawk. Thearrapongahas the feathers black upon the back. Thepuppeyro, which is the size of a blackbird, with the bill of a pigeon, blue back, the breast red, and the tail when opened of beautiful colours, is only met with in the woods of the serras. Two Indian nations were the possessors of this country. TheCahetes, from the river Parahiba to the south, and thePotyguarasto the north; each tribe is divided into various hordes, and the whole have been christianized many years since.
Phytology.—Cedar, Brazil wood,aroeira,pereira,batinga, which is yellow, iron and violet wood,fava-de-cheiro, (a species of pulse,) which grows in pods, and whose bean is deemed excellent for removing hoarseness;sipipira, bow-wood, heart of negro,anjico,angellim,jatuba, the cupahyba oil, and gum-mastick trees. In the woods where these trees grow, and where there are others for building, are also met with fruit trees growing without any human aid, such as thejabuticaba,pitomba,goyaba,cajue,ambuzo, andaracaza. Themangabais very abundant in some parts. The cocoa-nut tree abounds along the coast, which in parts is sandy, in others rocky, or covered with mangroves. Thecatulezis a sort of large palm tree, the fruit of which affords aliment to cattle. Thepikiis a middling sized tree, its fruit round, of the size of an apple, with a green rind, and a large prickly stone, the almond of which is eaten roasted or raw; the pulp is white and soft, and is also eaten; an oil is likewise extracted from it, and used for seasoning.
This province produced formerly much excellent sugar, the culture of which has diminished considerably in consequence of the great droughts which are frequently experienced; but in its place cotton has greatly increased, as it resists the heat better, and at the present time does not leave a less profit to the cultivator.
In the eastern part of this province are the following towns:
ParahibaPilarAlhandraVilla RealVilla do CondeVilla da RainbaSt. MiguelMontemor.
In the western part are Pombal and Villa Nova de Souza.
Parahiba, denominated a city, in a state of mediocrity and populous, is situated upon the right bank, ten miles above the embouchure of the river of its name, near the confluence of the small river Unhaby. It is ornamented with a house of misericordia and its hospital; a convent of Franciscans, another of slippered Carmelites, and a third of Benedictines; five hermitages, that of Bom Jesus for the soldiers, Santo Cruz, St. Pedro Gonsalves, Our Lady of Rozario for the blacks, and May dos Homens for the mulattoes; also two handsome fountains of good water. It is the capital of the province, the residence of its governor, and of the ouvidor, whose jurisdiction extends also to the province of Rio Grande. It has its high-sounding royal professors of the primitive letters and Latin, and a junta of real fazenda, (the treasury.) Its only mother church is dedicated to Nossa Senhora das Neves. The Jesuits had a college here, which serves at the present day for the palace of the governors; they possessed another for recreation, at a distance of five miles on the beach of Tambahu, where there is an entertaining house of Franciscans. The principal streets are paved, and there are some good houses. The river, whose entrance is defended by two frontier forts, a league distant, is here a mile in width, forming a good port for sumacas. Ships can only advance a little higher up than the forts. A Juiz de Fora was granted to this city in the year 1813.
The Dutch exchanged its primitive name for that of Friderica, in honour of the Prince of Orange, and presented it with a sugar-loaf for arms, in allusion to the excellent quality of that article, which was made in this district, and in pursuance of the plan they had adopted of granting similar armorial emblems of some leading object or production peculiar to the districts or capitanias then under their dominion.
An Englishman, a Scotchman, and an Irishman have recently settled in this city, and it is to be hoped, that an union will exist in their commercial operations, and that they will be induced to go hand-in-hand, thereby precluding that competition, which has been already alluded to as militating so seriously in other places against the interest of the merchant and manufacturer. These establishments were formed in conjunction with the merchants of Pernambuco, and from hence they receive supplies of manufactured goods, the returns for which are transmitted direct to England in sugar and cotton principally. Besides, additional sums of specie sent from Pernambuco to those merchants for the purchase of produce, give this city the advantage of disposing of a greater portion of the productions of the province than the amount of British commodities consumed in it. During my stay at Pernambuco two or three vesselswere sent from thence in ballast to Parahiba to take in produce, the major part of which was purchased with specie remitted for the purpose, and not with the proceeds of goods sold here. The balance of specie in favour of this city, in its interchange of commodities with the British merchant, may arise from various causes. The two or three merchants at Rio de Janeiro, who supply the government with naval and military stores, receive bills in payment upon the Provincial or fora treasuries, and the specie thus and by other remittances coming into the Pernambuco market beyond the returns for goods sold, create an extra demand for produce, arising from the impossibility of transmitting those funds to England in any other way; and thus part of the specie finds its way to this city, from an expectation of its being disposed of to better advantage. Two circumstances concur in producing this result;—in the first place, a considerable part of the produce of the province of Parahiba, till very recently, was brought to the market of Pernambuco; but the measures of the governor to confine the productions of the district under his jurisdiction to an exit by the head town, in order that the treasury may not be deprived of its revenue, has led to a concentration of the objects of exportation in this city, a direct transit to England being opened for them by the establishments mentioned, and whose object, in forwarding them at a lower rate than from Pernambuco, is at all events in the second place accomplished by an exemption from consulage duties.
One of the merchants settled here visited Pernambuco in the early part of 1820, whilst I was there, and purchased a cargo ofbacalhao, or salt fish, from Newfoundland, being the sixth vessel which had arrived at Recife so laden in the course of two months, and this was the first entire cargo that had sailed from Pernambuco to Parahiba, demonstrating that this city is in a progressive state of commercial improvement.
In its environs the necessaries of life are cultivated, and the sugar cane, for which there are various engenhos, principally going by water. Towards the interior plantations of the cotton tree are to be seen, especially in the certam of Crumatahu.
Previous to the revolution at Pernambuco, which is said to have extended its baneful consequences to this province, particularly to the vicinity of this city, where the sugar is principally grown, the export of that article exceeded nine hundred chests annually, each containing fifty arrobas, or sixteen hundred pounds; but in 1819 the amount did not reach much above four hundred chests.
Notwithstanding sugar has diminished, the production of cotton is increasing rapidly. In 1816 it was nine thousand bags; in 1819 it reached seventeen thousandbags of five to five and a half arrobas each; and in the year 1820 it was confidently anticipated to reach twenty to twenty-four thousand bags.
The campinhas of this province, which afford cattle to the capital, and in part to Pernambuco and Bahia, when visited by two or three succeeding seasons of drought, entirely lose their vegetation, and the streams disappear, so that a mortality ensues amongst the cattle, carrying them off in great numbers.
The governor of this city is endeavouring to effect some improvement in the roads, or rather tracks, through the province, which are in the same lamentable condition as in all other districts, and it is sincerely to be wished that his efforts may not be fruitless. He has issued orders for all individuals to make roads through their lands.
Ten miles from this city, and upon the margin of the same river, is the considerable arraial of St. Rita, with a hermitage so called.
Pilar do Taypu, forty miles above the capital upon the left bank of the Parahiba, is ornamented with a church of N. Senhora of Pilar. Cariri was its primitive name, when an aldeia of Indians, its first inhabitants, and who even at this day form, with their descendants, the principal portion of its population, cultivating in its environs a good quantity of cotton, mandioca, &c.
Nine miles from it is the arraial and parish of Tayabanna, upon the margin of the same river; and ten miles to the north is that of Cannufistula, with a hermitage; both grow much cotton. Gurunhem is upon a small river of the same name, with a chapel of N. Senhora of Rozario.
Near the Parahiba, and two miles from the town of Pilar, is the parish of St. Miguel; cotton is the wealth of its parishioners.
Alhandra, originally Urathauhy, is a middling town, and well situated near the river Capibary, nine miles north-east of Goyanna, and seven from the sea; it has a church dedicated to N. Senhora of Assumpçao. Its inhabitants are composed of Indians and whites, pure and intermixed, and are agriculturists and fishermen.
Villa do Conde, formerly Japoca, is yet small and without any thing remarkable. It has a church of the Lady of Conceiçao, and is about eighteen miles south of the capital, and near fifteen from the sea. Its inhabitants, Indians, whites, and mesticos, cultivate divers necessaries of life, and draw their water from a good fountain.
The town of St. Miguel, situated near a lake in the proximity of the bay of Trabicao, has the aspect of a small aldeia. Its church is dedicated to thearchangel whose name it takes. Its inhabitants are Indians, and draw their subsistence from the same occupations as the preceding places.
Montemor is a vilota, or small town of the descendants of the aborigines, one mile from the northern margin of the Mamanguape, and fifteen from the sea. It had its commencement six miles more distant, where the parish of St. Pedro and St. Paulo is situated, for the habitation of the ancestors of its present inhabitants. The number of whites having greatly increased, and in order to avoid the dissensions which originated with the two hierarchies, it became expedient to separate them; for which purpose a new aldeia was founded with the name of Preguica, for the establishment of the first, in the situation where the town is. Its church is dedicated to the Lady of Prazeres. The senate of this town resides in the parish of St. Pedro and St. Paulo, better known by the name of Mamanguape, in consequence of being near that river. In the year 1813, when its population and that of its extensive district, had nearly reached fifteen thousand adults, it was dismembered of its western portion for the creation of the parish of N. Senhora of Conceiçao do Brejo d’Area.
Villa Real. By a law of the 17th of June, 1815, the above new parish of Conceiçao, was created a town, with the name of Villa Real do Brejo d’Area, its civil government being assisted by two ordinary judges and threevereadores, or aldermen, with other officers common to towns of the same order. It is seventy miles from Montemor, and cotton is its principal production.
Villa da Rainha, vulgarly called Campinha Grande, (Large Plain), in consequence of being a solitary place, in an extensive plain, one hundred and twenty miles west of the capital, is yet a small town, much frequented, however, in consequence of the royal road, (estrada-real) as it is ludicrously called, of the certam. Paupinna was its name previously to its becoming a town. Its inhabitants drink of a contiguous lake, which failing of water in the years of great drought, obliges them to fetch it upwards of six miles. Its church is dedicated to the Lady of Conceiçao.
Pombal, a considerable town, speaking comparatively with others of the country, is well situated upon the river Pinhanco, four miles above its mouth, and one hundred and fifty miles south of Villa Nova da Princeza, a town of Rio Grande. It has for nominal patroness the Lady of Bom Successo (good success.) Its inhabitants, mostly whites, live upon the produce of agriculture, and of cattle, which are not numerous.
Villa Nova de Souza is situated upon the margin of the river Peixe, ten milesabove its mouth, thirty-five from Pombal, and has a church of the Lady of Remedios. The inhabitants cultivate legumes, sugar, water-melons, and melons, in the vicinity of the rivers; and on the serras, mandioca, cotton, and Indian corn; in the catingas cattle pasture, and abound with a diversity of game. In the year 1806, there was scarcely an orange tree in the districts of the last two towns, where all the trees are bent to the west, in consequence of the constant and sometimes impetuous east wind that prevails here.