Chapter 9

CONVENT OF ST ANTONIO, RIO JANEIRO

THE CONVENT OF ST THERESA, PART OF THE AQUEDUCT, & A SEGE OR CABRIOLET.

There are two female convents at Rio de Janeiro. The in-dwellers of one adhere rigidly to their system of strict seclusion from all intercourse with the world: they are Therezian nuns, and the convent is agreeably situated upon an eminence, near the double row of arches in which the aqueduct terminates. The others are Franciscan nuns, and an apartment in their convent of Ajuda is appropriated for the admission of their friends, to converse with them through an iron grating. This convent possesses an antiquated organ, coeval with the establishment, and the hand of man had not been allowed, for many a year, to harmonize the discordancy occasioned by the deteriorating lapse of time. An English professor of music was engaged, under considerable penalties to keep the peace, and presented with acarte-blancheto visit the convent, for the purpose of thoroughly renovating this instrument, which, on accomplishing, he declared was as fine a toned organ as he had ever heard. I was permitted to accompany this gentleman, upon one occasion, under the garb of a servant. We approached a door in the corner of a small inner square, which the outer entrance leads to. A respectful knock produced the opening of a small shutter within the door, when the fine face and black eyes of the watchful porteress were presented at the iron grating. After a parley of a few minutes, during which, at intervals, she examined me with rather a scrutinizing eye, the bolts were withdrawn, and, on entering, we found ourselves at the foot of a flight of spacious stairs, which she ascended with us. At the top we were joined by two other nuns, apparently about the age of forty, who conducted us along a passage or avenue; one of them continuing to sound a bell the whole way, with a view of announcing to the sisterhood that man was within the precincts of the building, whose sight they were thus cautioned to avoid. Our three companions were extremely affable, and conversed with much animation. Wearrived, after passing through a considerable part of the building, at the apartment where the organ stood, which was also a place of devotion, and ornamented with the figures of various saints. Creolean slaves soon came, to assist in the operations upon the organ, in which I was an equally awkward performer. Those slaves, unnaturally destined also to be here immured for life, were young and some of them very handsome. At intervals many other nuns came to the door and looked in by stealth. Some gradually overcame their shyness, entered the room, offered up their devotions, repeated their “Avi Marias,” and, by degrees, approached the organ, with which our attentionappearedto be absorbed. Nature so triumphed over superstitious habits that many of them became very familiar and lively. One of them sung part of an English song, which my companion had translated into Portuguese, he playing upon the organ as an accompaniment; the others appeared quite delighted, and shouted out “Viva, viva.” Upon some of them perseveringly urging me for an air, I gave them a verse of “God save the King,” which, on others coming into the room, I was obliged to repeat. The governesses joined in these occasional bursts of vivacity, and at other times took their stations in different parts of the room, apparently in the posture of devotion, and so situated that they could observe all that was passing. Upon all occasions of their coming in or leaving the room they bent the knee to the figure of Jesus. One of them directed my attention to the beautiful quality of the silk which constituted the vestments on the figure of St. John, and observed, several times, that he appearedmuito triste(very sad) that morning. I did not think proper to dissent from this romantic discovery; but I was a little astonished to find that she carried her superstition so far as to imagine that an inanimate figure could actually change its aspect, and, consequently, that it was endowed with vital feeling and thought. She next showed me amenino Jesu, (child Jesus,) richly dressed, with a silken band around the waist, from which was suspended an embroidered bag, containing, she said, a piece of the real bone of our Saviour. I ventured here not wholly to conceal my doubts; but she assured me it was so, and that the Queen, whose remains were deposited in the garden of the convent, brought it from Lisbon, and presented it to them: this was conclusive. No doubt they regarded us as pitiable heretics, one of them taking great pains to teach mePadre Nosso,Avi Maria,Santa Maria, all which I was instructed to write in my book, and then compelled to repeat several times to the rest, who seemed very much pleased at my promising symptoms of Catholicism. A very fine girl, about ten years of age, had just entered the convent. I expressed my surpriseand regret, to one of the governesses, that so young a child should be shut up here for life; she replied, that it was infinitely better than being exposed to the wickedness of the world. They are involved in great ignorance, but apparently not only comfortable, but happy, and great cleanliness pervaded that part of the convent that we saw. We returned by the same avenues; and the bell, which had been intrusted to my novel management, sending forth rather unusual sounds, induced some of the more secluded sisterhood to peep, with some surprise, out of their cells; and, as I was found not to be intuitively a bellman to their wishes, I was as quickly deprived of my new situation.

On Stone by C. Shoosmith from a Sketch by Jas. Henderson.Printed by C. Hullmandel.THE CONVENT OF AJUDA.

On Stone by C. Shoosmith from a Sketch by Jas. Henderson.

Printed by C. Hullmandel.

THE CONVENT OF AJUDA.

An aqueduct, for furnishing water to the Cidade Nova, is nearly completed; in which quarter some new fountains are to be observed, especially the Lagarto, and another in the Campo St. Anna, large, built of stone, and discharging the water by numerous spouts.

The fountains in the eastern district of the city consist of one in the Palace Square, in the shape of a tower, theMarrecas; one in the Moura Place; and theCarioca, with twelve spouts; all of which are supplied by the aqueduct already mentioned.

A visit to its source I found to be a most interesting excursion. I was accompanied to it by two friends. We directed our course to the village of Matta Cavallos, passing underneath the double arcade, the superior one having forty-two arches, and which conducts the water from the Therezian hill across a valley close to the city. We called upon Mr. Langsdorffe, the Russian consul, and proceeded from his house up a gradual ascent, covered with almost impervious woods, and, after crossing a deep glen, gained the terrace, which is formed by excavation along the sides of mountains and precipices for nearly four miles. As far as two white pillars, opening into the Orange Valley, a distance of about three miles, the terrace has been recently repaired, and forms of itself a very fine promenade. Upon its inner side the range of aqueduct is erected, which is nearly eight feet high, consisting of two walls, a yard from each other, which space is arched over, and encloses the small stream of water that flows rapidly along a channel hewn out of stone. As far as the pillars it has been recently enlivened by white-washing, and at certain distances small apertures are left, for the purpose of ventilation. In some places, small iron gates are introduced into the wall, to admit of the occasional entrance of persons within it; those gates are locked, and an opening is left at the bottom large enough to receive the arm. There is likewise a bason, cut out of the stone, to supply the passers-by with water, which has rather a peculiar flavour.

The eye is delighted with the succession of beautiful scenery which the walk presents, and rambles in undiminished rapture at every point, over the varied and romantic objects which sportive nature has here produced. Precipices above, and accumulated alpines shut in the view to the south and west. Winding glens below, formed by smaller elevations; here and there houses seen almost embosomed in the woody ravines; the valley of Engenho Velho, sprinkled with white houses, which is also the site of the palace of St. Christovao; the city and bay, surrounded with their amphitheatres of mountains; the high soaring masses near the pass to the Tejuca; the towering piles of the Organ range, and others of varied appearance to the right, edging the distant horizon, together form a grand totality, a most animated and animating picture, extending far to the north and east, harmonizing the feelings, and lifting the mind into a profound and pleasing train of wonder and adoration of the all-powerful being who has ordained these noble diversities of nature, over which his creative hand has thrown the graceful and cheerful covering of verdant trees and shrubs, swarming in wild profusion, the hand of man having in few places contributed its aid.

“Hail, Source of beings! Universal SoulOf Heav’n and Earth! Essential Presence, hail!To Thee I bend the knee: to Thee my thoughtsContinual climb, who with a master handHast the great whole into perfection touch’d.”

“Hail, Source of beings! Universal Soul

Of Heav’n and Earth! Essential Presence, hail!

To Thee I bend the knee: to Thee my thoughts

Continual climb, who with a master hand

Hast the great whole into perfection touch’d.”

This charming picture is lost to view on passing the opening betwixt the pillars, where the prospect, although more confined, is admirable, consisting of the deep recesses of the Orange Valley, the more lofty features of the mountains which encompass it, and the singularly formed Corcovada at its head, all rising into indescribable magnificence. These are scenes that would have delighted and invigorated with new energy the most exalted poets and painters. From hence, a narrower terrace, covered with entwining brushwood, and skirting along the side of the mountains for about a mile, brought us to the head of the valley, where the origin of the aqueduct is marked, by an inscription, to have taken place in the year 1744. Its source is adorned with a fine cascade, at the foot of which, a declining platform of rocks, overshadowed with trees, and refreshed with the falling water, afforded us a delightful retreat from the rays of the sun; and here in reality we enjoyed the refreshment a slave had brought for us: above us the rugged mountains in precipices and the stony bed of the rivulet were seen, overhung with high trees and shrubs as far as theeye could reach. In this place, and from these waters, a poetical mind must, indeed, imbibe those draughts of inspiration which the vale of Tempe, and the mountain and stream of Parnassus are fabled to have produced. A long and intricate path leads from hence to the summit of the Corcovada Mountain; below us there was an abrupt and rocky steep, its sides covered with thickly growing brushwood, down which the water descended in a murmuring course to the valley; the whole of its varieties of verdure and fertility, with the bay of Bota-fogo at its lower extremity, was within our view. A winding road led us to a point, where we descended by a difficult way into the valley, while its fine oranges, growing spontaneously, supplied us with a dessert. It is beautified with some elegant houses, of one of which, at the bottom, almost opposite to the Queen’s cottage, the accompanying sketch is a specimen. Our way from hence continued by the Cateta and the Gloria to Rio.

PILLARS NEAR THE SOURCE OF THE AQUEDUCT

On Stone by C. Shoosmith from a Sketch by Jas. Henderson.Printed by C. Hullmandel.HOUSE AT THE BOTTOM OF THE ORANGE VALLEY.

On Stone by C. Shoosmith from a Sketch by Jas. Henderson.

Printed by C. Hullmandel.

HOUSE AT THE BOTTOM OF THE ORANGE VALLEY.

The open spaces of the city, denominated squares, consist of the Palace Square, one hundred and fifty yards long, and eighty wide, with two good landing stairs from the bay; of the Roceo, one hundred and eighty yards long, and one hundred wide; and the Capim, recently called Peloirinho. In the Cidado Nova, there is one which occupies the intermediate space of the crossing of four streets; but, although these are open spaces, they have little regularity or semblance to any thing that produces the idea of a square. The Royal Palace which has more the appearance of a manufactory than the residence of a king, is composed of that formerly occupied by the viceroys, the convent of the Carmelites, and the senate-house, united by passages, the first forming the southern side of the square, and the latter the western. The northern side consists of a row of houses, which are private property, with two stories the same as the others. The first portion has twenty-four windows on the side, and nine in front towards the bay, the lower part of which is occupied by the guards and some public offices, the rooms above are generally used by the King for public levees. Some of the merchants and groups of the male inhabitants frequent every evening that part of the square, and the walls adjoining the landing places and bordering the bay afford convenient seats, which are fully occupied. Here the arrival of vessels is ascertained, and the sea-breeze enjoyed.

The mint, the armory, the naval arsenal, and that of the military, (calledtrem,) and the custom house, are the principal public buildings; but of themselves present nothing particularly worthy of remark. There are various public trapiches, or warehouses for the deposit of produce. The public gardens, whichare stated by some travellers to have been fully and gaily attended some twelve or fourteen years ago, are now quite unfrequented, and sunk into neglect. This place of resort in former times consists of about two acres of ground, bordering upon the bay, enclosed with a high wall, and neatly laid out in walks of trees, overhung with a variety of evergreen foliage. There is a stone terrace at the end, ascended by two flights of steps, commanding a view of the bay, with the remains of two pavilions, and other mutilated objects. This place is not left without regret, that so cool and agreeable a situation, and so well calculated for a public promenade, is permitted to fall into decay. For the administration of justice the same tribunals exist here as at Lisbon. At the period of the suppression of the board of inspection, in 1808, was created the tribunal of the royal junta of commerce, agriculture, manufactures, and navigation, composed of ten deputies, a president, a secretary, and an official maior, (officiating mayor.) The Jesuitical library is open to the public; it contains about sixty thousand volumes, amongst which there are but few modern works, and a great many old ones on theology. I was in the habit of frequenting it, and as is the custom at the national library in Paris, the librarian attends, immediately brings any book that may be required, and places it upon a small reading desk on the table, with which each person is accommodated. The very small number who attended consisted generally of priests and friars. Manufactories have yet acquired no footing in this city; there is however, one of sail-cloth, and another of silk stockings; also, a few miles distant, at Andrahi, there are works for printing cottons upon a small scale, and conducted by a person who has been in England. Coarse cottons are manufactured in the interior of Brazil, and they pass the shuttle with the hand, according to the mode used in England formerly.

The only place of amusement in Rio is the theatre, erected within the last few years, and which, in point of external appearance, is beyond mediocrity. It contains four tiers of boxes on each side of the house, thirteen in each tier, making, in the whole, one hundred and four boxes, which are extremely gloomy, being shut in at the sides. The royal box occupies the whole of the space fronting the stage, above which there is a small gallery; and the pit contains about four hundred persons. The orchestra is esteemed very tolerable; but the performances are indifferent. Two French dancers and their wives are at present the magnets of attraction; and there is great emulation between them for the palm of superiority. The Campo St. Anna contains a large building, erected for the purpose of bull-baiting; but the Brazilian bull not possessing the fire and fury of this animal in Europe, was the reason of its falling into disuse, and creditablewould it be if so irrational and cruel an amusement was discontinued. Within the last two years, this building was the scene of the various feats in horsemanship of Mr. Southby and his troop, for which it is well adapted. The clown, soon acquiring some of the local peculiarities of the people, produced amongst them a fund of merriment they had been little accustomed to; and they expressed themselves more highly astonished and pleased with those performances, and the wonderful display of agility by Mrs. Southby on the tight rope, than any thing they had ever before witnessed.

The city of Rio de Janeiro was taken by the French, in the year 1711, under M. Duguay Truin, and afterwards recovered by the people. In the preceding year, M. du Clerc had entered the town, conducted by two fugitive negroes, from Ilha Grande.

There are three principal roads leading from this city, none of which are adapted to the use of a carriage for more than six or seven miles. The first, leading to the southward, after passing the public gardens and the Lapa, proceeds, for a short distance, along the banks of the bay, commanding a view of its entrance, which is soon interrupted by the Gloria Hill, behind which the road passes, and continues in a parallel line with the Pria Flemingo, which is adorned with several neat houses, many of them occupied by English merchants. The Hon. Mr. Thornton had taken up a temporary residence in one of them. After crossing a small bridge at the Cateta, the road conducts, for about a mile and a half, betwixt luxuriant and verdant hedges, to the beach or Pria of Bota-fogo, which is a fine bay, shut in by picturesque promontories and headlands, leaving only a narrow channel for the ingress and egress of its waters. This beach is edged with some of the neatest and most elegant houses in the vicinity of Rio de Janeiro, many of them occupied by fidalgos, and others by English merchants; one of which, in the possession of Mr. Harrison, exhibits all the beauty, elegance, and comfort of an English villa. Bye-roads lead from hence to the Pria Vermelha, to the royal powder manufactory, and the botanical garden already mentioned. In many parts the Cateta road is in a very bad state of repair, and the holes and hollow places form pools of water after the least fall of rain. The other two roads lead to the north of the city, both branching from the Campo St. Anna, and again communicate in passing Matta Porcas. The first and principal one proceeds from the right of the Campo, and continues for about a mile and a half, to the wooden bridge of St. Diogo, across a marshy flat, which eight or ten years ago was impassable, and is now denominated the Cidade Nova, of which it may in time constitutea portion. The road of the Cidade Nova, being the daily route of the royal family, is kept in pretty good order, as well as the whole road as far as the palace of Christovao, which at Matta Porcas turns to the right, and continues for about two miles along a level, with amphitheatres of various and picturesque mountains in every direction. After crossing the third brook, by a small bridge, the way to the palace turns to the left, when a handsome entrance is discovered, not in unison with the palace, but consisting of a wall and iron palisades, extending about thirty yards on each side of it, without any contiguous lodge or building. From hence the road sweeps to the left, up a gentle acclivity, to the eminence upon which the palace stands, fronted by a square, not embellished with shrubs and grass-plots, but of deep sand, which is entered by the left corner, and not by the grand entrance, composed of the elegant gates, a counterpart of those at Sion House, and sent as a present to his Majesty by the Duke of Northumberland. They are placed in the centre betwixt pillars of granite, peculiar to the country, and two lodges, the remainder on each side along the whole front of the palace being completed with palisades of Portuguese workmanship. It will excite some surprise in the reader to be informed, that the outer part, which should form a road to this entrance, is allowed to remain in its natural state of hollow and uneven ground, when no very great labour would be required to render it complete. At present, the gates are in disuse, the lodges closed, and, with the aid of the dirt and gunpowder arising from the fire-works ranged along their front, on occasions of religious festivals, the whole already appears in a course of dilapidation. The palace is one story high, perfectly plain, without any pretensions to elegance, or the semblance of any order of architecture, and can boast of nothing but the beauty of its situation. It might, indeed, be mistaken, at a distance, for a manufactory, in consequence of the windows being so crowded together, and particularly at night, when it is lighted up.

The road, from the point which leads to the palace, continues by either turning a little further on to the left, and ascending a hill, or by the Campo St. Christovao, which sweeps round the hill and meets the other road on the opposite side, and afterwards leads on to the province of St. Paulo and Minas Geraes. It is the grand track of the miners and others coming from distant districts, and presents successive troops of mules, laden with different produce, attached to their curious and rudely constructed pack-saddles, by straps of raw hides.

The road of St. Christovao and the Cidade Nova, are generally crowdedby these caravans, their drivers of all complexions, dressed in cotton shirts and trowsers, with slouching hats, and combined with the horses and mules, carrying persons of rather a superior order coming also from the interior, amount to the aggregate number of at least two thousand passing and re-passing daily. It would be difficult to describe the variety of costume and rude appearance of the latter persons, many of whom are dressed in black or dirty white hats, with prodigious rims, a capote, or cloak, frequently of sky-blue, thrown round the front part of the body, and being crossed behind them, hangs in folds on each side of the mule. The bits of their bridles, their saddles, and stirrups, are of various antiquated and fantastic shapes. Some wear boots of brown leather, closely fitted to the leg, bound round the top with a strap and large buckle; others with capotes, large hats, &c. wear neither shoes nor boots, but introduce the great toes only into the stirrups, and with large heavy spurs upon the naked heels, are not the least remarkable among these burlesque figures. I have frequently ridden with them, and always found that they were communicative and civil. Their mules, which had performed journeys of two and three months, did not appear to have sustained much injury. These people mostly frequent certain streets in the city for disposal of their produce, and the purchase of manufactured goods. The Rua de Candelaria is the great mart for cheeses, brought from the interior. The Rua de Violas, Rua de St. Pedro, &c. are visited by the miners; and some of the shopkeepers, of whom they buy their return cargo, occasionally purchase from the English merchants three or four thousand pounds of goods in one bargain.

The other road leading from the Campo St. Anna, does not present so much traffic as the last, and is denominated the old road. It proceeds through the village of Catimby, and from thence to Matta Porcas, one end of which it passes, and advances through the valley, having many good houses by its sides, to Andrahi, contracting afterwards betwixt the mountains into a narrow bridle way, leading to the district of Tejuco. From this road, near the Pedro Mountain, a cross road, with some good houses, the principal one recently occupied by Mr. Gill, an English merchant, conducts through the extremity of the valley of Engenho Velho, and at a distance of about half a mile unites itself with a road coming through another portion of the same valley, from the stone bridge near the turn to the palace. After this junction, the road proceeds through the valley of Engenho Novo, and communicates with the great road to the mines.

The road which turns off at the stone bridge last mentioned is a lane muchfrequented by the royal family, and is bounded by beautifully verdant hedges, and some neat shacaras, and is not dissimilar in appearance to the green lanes, leading from London to Southgate. It is the limit of the King’s shacara on the right. About three quarters of a mile from its commencement is situated the Casa de Don Pedro, recently erected in the form of a castle, with a flag-staff at the top, the ground-floor consisting of one good sized room, and four smaller, covered with India matting, and furnished with chairs and sofas, but by no means in a royal style. From the palace to this casa is a favourite walk of the King’s; the interval forms the royal shacara, and is laid out in walks, crossing each other at right angles, shaded by an abundant variety of trees, which have been planted only within the last few years, and demonstrate by their state of maturity, the exuberant fertility of the soil and climate.

The road continues from hence, across a brook, by a wooden bridge, which bounds the King’s shacara on that side; and very near to it is the royal mill, which is yet far from being completed, although it was begun five or six years ago. It is intended to have one water-wheel and four pair of mill-stones. The model of the building and the machinery were sent from Lisbon. When the mill is finished, it is expected to grind forty sacks of wheat during the day and night, for which the public will be charged two crusades (about five shillings) per sack, of three alqueiras, or about three and a half of Winchester bushels.

One hundred yards further is situated Bella-fonta, the fine shacara of Mr. Wright, under whose roof I received every kindness and hospitality possible, during my residence at Rio; and am happy in this opportunity of acknowledging, in common with all who know him, the high estimation I entertain of his character.

Within the circuit of the roads described, the valley of Engenho Velho is adorned with numerous neat shacaras, abounding with walks formed of oranges, and all the fruit trees of the tropics. Many give the preference to a residence on the Cateta side; but, in consequence of the royal family frequenting this quarter, I think the spirit of improvement shows itself more decidedly in this direction, and although the sea breezes do not reach it, the land breezes from the adjacent mountains, sweeping along the valley, render the mornings and evenings particularly delightful. The dews are here profuse.

On Stone by G. Hurley; the figures by Shoosmith from a Sketch by Jas. Henderson.Printed by Romney & Fayter.A Pedlar & His Slave.BELLA FONTA, THE SHACARA OF I.E. WRIGHT, ESCa.

On Stone by G. Hurley; the figures by Shoosmith from a Sketch by Jas. Henderson.

Printed by Romney & Fayter.

A Pedlar & His Slave.

BELLA FONTA, THE SHACARA OF I.E. WRIGHT, ESCa.

On Stone by C. Shoosmith from a Sketch by Jas. Henderson.Printed by C. Hullmandel.PALACE OF ST CRISTOVÃO.

On Stone by C. Shoosmith from a Sketch by Jas. Henderson.

Printed by C. Hullmandel.

PALACE OF ST CRISTOVÃO.

I accompanied a gentleman, in the month of September, to see the Casa de Don Pedro, from whence we proceeded along the delightfully shaded walks of the shacara to the palace, which is in the progress of augmentation by some buildings under the inspection of Mr. Johnson, who came to the Brazil withthe gates from the Duke of Northumberland, and who has been since employed by the King in superintending the progressive enlargement of the palace. On this day, all bands were fully employed in finishing a suite of rooms which his Majesty had a great wish to occupy that evening.

On descending a hill from the palace, we perceived Prince Don Miguel in a field below, dressed in a pair of great jack-boots, a cocked hat, and a star upon his breast, with a pole about 10 feet long in his hand, attending a plough with one handle, drawn by six bullocks, followed by five or six negro drivers and afeitor.[12]They executed their work very imperfectly, allowing the greatest portion of the turf to fall down again. From the superfluity of animal power employed in this defective specimen of agriculture, our attention was directed to the royal stables, which contained about three hundred mules and horses of a diminutive size, with double the number of persons to look after them that would have been deemed necessary in England.

Prince Don Pedro had been breaking horses into harness all that morning, and we met him with the fourth pair; he used a large unwieldy whip, which, however, he administered pretty freely, making as much noise as a French postilion would, on announcing his arrival at a town, by the cracking of his whip. On passing him we stood still and took off our hats, which was only returned by an ungracious look. We also met Prince Don Miguel, returning from his agricultural amusement, accompanied by hisfeitor. He is a spare and pale-looking person, about sixteen years of age. Passing close to his elbow, we paid him the most respectful obeisance, but we were not honoured even with the least inclination of his head.

I walked one evening to see the fire-works, which had been preparing for some time for the celebration of a saint’s day, in front of the palace, ranged along, and a few yards distant from the gates and palisades. The veranda was filled with a great many priests and friars, and others about the person of the King. His Majesty and the rest of the family took their station at the fifth window, on the right of the handsome flight of stairs erected by Mr. Johnson. The fire-works were ill executed, and could not be put in comparison with such exhibitions in Europe, which is much to be wondered at, considering the immense revenue here annually expended in this way, and the great number of persons that live by it and follow no other pursuit. Every evening at eight o’clock, excepting holidays and Sundays, the King receives the public, in a room appropriated for the purpose, at St. Christovao, to the honour ofbeija-māo;[13]andthe roads of Cidade Nova, Catimby, and Matta Porcas are covered, on those occasions, with officers, and numerous persons in cabriolets, on horseback, and on foot, pressing towards the palace, consisting of those who have some object to carry with his Majesty. When the door is opened there is a promiscuous rushing forward, and a mulatto will be seen treading upon the heels of a general. They advance in single rank up one side of the room to the upper part, where his Majesty is seated, attended by his fidalgos in waiting, and, passing him in review, they countermarch in the same order. It is said that the King has an extraordinary memory, and recollects each individual as he passes, and the object of his visit; those who please speak to him, but a great proportion do not. It would appear that his Majesty is partial to seeing people in this way for a considerable period before he concedes what they want. A gentleman from Lisbon informed me that he had come to Rio expressly to gain some object with the government, and he anticipated a residence of twelve months there before he accomplished it. He purposed omitting none of those numerous attendances ofbeija-māo, unless his neglecting to do so might be observed by his Majesty; who, he observed was particularly desirous of detaining all Europeans there as long as possible. Senhor Thomas Antonio de Portugal, the minister of state, who has a shacara upon the left side of the road, already described, leading to Andrahi, holds a sort of public levee two days in each week, where crowds of officers and others attend, to submit their applications or to solicit his patronage, afterwards proceeding to perform the accustomed ceremony ofbeija-māoat the palace, during which period, from eight to nine o’clock, a band of music, in no very harmonious strains, is heard through a portion of the valley.

The fidalgos, and those who may be denominated the higher orders of society here, are infinitely behind corresponding classes in the leading states of Europe, both in the knowledge and practice of civilized life. The pleasures and refinements of social intercourse are alike unknown to them: jealous of foreigners, their conduct towards them is not marked by that attention or hospitality so conspicuous in other countries, where the cultivation of a liberal system of society prevails. Their main occupation consists in outward show, in the punctilious observance of court-etiquette, and a regular attendance upon the superstitious rites and festivals of the Catholic religion. Whatever little exists of pomp and splendour in this city is to be discovered in the temples, which are fitted up with rich profusion, more especially the parish churches, their altars and shrines exhibiting decorations of the most costly kind, in which respectSt. Sebastian, or the Royal Chapel, stands pre-eminent; its richly-gilded walls, carved work, and splendidly-ornamented altars, glittering with a profusion of gold, silver, and precious stones, surpass in brilliancy any thing that could be imagined, by a plain Christian, as essential to the purposes of divine worship. The chapel has some paintings, and one large piece over the chief altar, into which the late Queen and the principal part of the royal family are introduced. The King has a large box, not unlike an opera-box, above the place where grand mass is performed; here his Majesty and the rest of the family take their seats on festival-days; the bishop, in white or yellow satin, richly embroidered with gold, his mitre of the same, sits in great state below, opposite to the King, when he is not engaged in any part of the ceremony, in which he is assisted by a prodigious number of padres, and the service is performed with vast magnificence. The organ, accompanied by a crowd of vocal performers, amongst whom are five or six eunuchs, gratify, with some of the finest music of the Brazil, the audience, consisting, on some occasions, of many fidalgos, judges, ministers, and various individuals, who, in their gaudy robes, sit upon benches along the body of the chapel. There are others also who are led there by curiosity.

Here the King will sometimes spend the whole day, and, upon the celebration of some favourite saint’s day, will remain till midnight. These holidays and festivities are usually attended by an immense consumption of gunpowder, in rockets, fire-works, &c. The days of some saints are remarkable for the right every man, bearing the same name, assumes of lighting up a great bonfire in front of his house; and I remember accompanying a friend in his chaise, on the evening of St. John’s day, when we had some difficulty in getting the horse through the flames and sky-rockets that illuminated and occupied the whole street fronting the dwellings of all the Senhor Joaos. The horses generally, however, do not regard it, being so accustomed to fire and gunpowder. During my stay at Rio, a bell was christened, and placed on the south side of the royal chapel with much ceremony. The King was godfather and the widow Princess godmother. The bell was named John the Sixth, in honour of his Majesty, who sprinkled it with salt and water, and at the period that it was hoisted to its ultimate position, the town resounded with fire-works and sky-rockets.

Religious exhibitions and feasts succeed each other with very little intermission; and the Brazilian calendars present an innumerable list of them. At Whitsuntide, three or four days are dedicated to the consecration of oxen, fowls, &c. andtheir consumption. The churches retail these articles at high prices, producing a considerable revenue. In some of the parishes, at this time, the inhabitants, by turns, are at the expense of a public feast, and it occasionally costs some individuals seven or eight hundred pounds. A boy, the son of the person giving this entertainment, sits upon a throne, attended by boys and girls of his own age; he is called the emperor, and, with a sceptre in his hand, presides over the feast. I saw two exhibitions of this sort on the 1st of June, one in the Campo St. Anna, and the other at the Lappa, accompanied with fire-works. They are extremely ludicrous. The festival of Corpus Christi, on the 10th of June, is one of their grandest processional displays. It is only upon these occasions that the ladies appear in public. Early in the day cabriolets, drawn by mules, are seen driving in every direction towards the Ruas Direita and d’Aquitanda, containing females in their gala dresses, while the military of every description are assembled in the streets to assist in the procession, which consists principally of priests and friars, whose prodigious numbers are calculated to swell out a cavalcade, together with numerous inhabitants of different parishes, wearing cloaks peculiar to the churches, which are various and showy. The whole form two lines, preceded with banners, each person, including the priests, carrying a preposterous-looking wax candle, about six feet high, one end of which is placed, at every step, upon the ground. The royal horses, sumptuously caparisoned, and decorated with ribands from their noses to the end of their long tails, are led by grooms dressed in the most tawdry style, the royal servants of every order following; then the judges, and all classes of people employed by the government. The fidalgos and ministers precede and follow the bishop, who carries the Host, under a superb canopy, attended by Princes Don Pedro and Don Miguel, the supporters of his train! The King usually follows the bishop as a train-bearer, but on this occasion he did not. The dresses of all were rich and costly; and the procession, amounting to some thousand persons, proceeded along the Rua Direita and returned, by the Rua d’Aquitanda, to the palace chapel; after which there was a grand display of fire-works. All the balconies were crowded with females, adorned with precious stones. The fronts of the houses were hung with silks and crimson velvet, gilded with ornaments; and the streets were strewed with green leaves. The general effect of the whole was very imposing.

There is rather a celebrated annual procession, on the 10th of October, in the Rua dos Ourives, having its foundation in some religious observance peculiar to the church of that street. All the houses are hung outside with tapestry andother stuffs, and ornamented with looking-glasses, and a great portion of the furniture which the house contains, not of the most elegant sort, and generally not over abundant. A procession of padres, and numerous others belonging to the parish, takes place during the evening, drawing together an immense concourse of people, while the females, who spend the last penny to procure a gay dress for these occasions, appear at the balconies in a profusion of finery. The houses are illuminated, not with any transparent or appropriate devices, but with wax and common tallow candles; some placed in the front of looking-glasses, in order to produce a double brilliancy at half price.

The funeral processions are rather singular; and the interment of a child particularly would appear to be the season of rejoicing rather than grief. On these occasions the musical performers are the most choice and costly. The corpse is never kept more than one day from the time of the demise, and the funeral rites are usually celebrated after dark; every one that chooses enlisting into the procession by the acceptance of a wax-light. At a funeral which I saw at the Carmo, a large and handsome church adjoining the royal chapel, two lines of persons were ranged along the body of the building, from the entrance towards the altar, facing each other, every one holding a wax-light, nearly six feet high, in the right hand, and projected rather forward. Some of the individuals of this assembly might be friends of the deceased, but the major part consisted of persons casually met with in the streets, or such as were led by curiosity into the church. The acceptance of a light is deemed an honour done to the friends of the dead, and the agents of the padres are not very scrupulous in forcing them, if possible, into the hands of every one they see; the motive for doing this is ascertained on knowing that the remainder of all candles which are used become the perquisite of those veryworthybrethren. At the head of the two lines, amounting to perhaps from one hundred to one hundred and fifty persons, the corpse was placed upon a table or elevated platform, with the head exposed to view, while its last vestments displayed the ill-founded notion of importance which its survivors attach to outward and meretricious show. The ceremony of itself not being calculated to impress the mind with awe, none of those feelings of respectful gravity were visible, which so solemn an occasion ought to have produced. When it was finished, the body was conducted, with no regular procession, through some outer avenues of the church, to the catacombs, situated in a passage opposite to the jesuitical library. On arriving at an inner cemetery of the catacombs, the lights of those who followed were extinguished and taken from them by the persons whose duty it was to secure this perquisite;and every one retiring in consequence, the body disappeared by some other avenue, and I could not possibly discover how it was afterwards disposed of. Upon another occasion of the funeral obsequies of a general officer, I attempted to see their mode of executing this last office; but, from the quickness with which they slid away, and the extinguishing of the lights, I was again disappointed. A friend, however, gave me the following description of the interment of a girl, at which he was present. After the ceremony and the music had ceased, they proceeded from the said church of Our Lady of Carmo to the catacombs, where he arrived, with two or three others, at that point of the cemetery which was to receive the remains. The padres had disappeared, and no one was there but the father of the girl and a person who may be styled the sexton. The outer coverings had been taken off, and the girl appeared richly dressed in embroidered muslin, with silk stockings, and new shoes on, as if equipped for an assembly. The coffin had no bottom, but the body was supported upon a piece of satin, securely nailed around the upper part of it, when the nails being withdrawn from the sides, the father, who was not dressed in the sable vestments of a mourner but in those of a bridegroom, disgusted my friend by his wanton and unfeeling conduct, and at this moment threw a piece of muslin to the sexton, urging him to despatch by shouting out “depressa, depressa.” The muslin being drawn over the face of the girl, a large quantity of quick lime was placed upon it, and another portion spread from the head along the breast to the body, with a quantity on each side, when the man, with much ceremony, formed a cross upon it with his trowel. During the operation, the father, devoid of every proper sense of decency, cried out to him, “Vamos, vamos” (let us go); and, at another time, “Vamos, depressa, filho da pouta.” To render this last exclamation into English would only wound the feelings of those who do not understand it. Quick lime being now placed upon the flat stone of the cemetery, which runs horizontally a long way back, exhibiting its awful contents, the coffin was lifted up, and the nails of the end being also taken out, the body and piece of satin fell upon the quick lime, and the coffin was removed away. The cemeteries are afterwards walled up and plastered over in front. This father then, and even before, at the close of the church ceremony, embraced many people for joy, invited some to go home with him to a grand supper prepared for the occasion, and felt convinced that his child was gone to Heaven. Two or three hundred pounds are occasionally expended at funerals.

The catacombs are small but extremely neat, the first part forming a square,ornamented with vases, and containing aromatic shrubs and flowers, is surrounded with a sort of piazza, the inner walls of which present the front of cemeteries, neatly plastered and numbered. Opposite the entrance, and crossing the square, a door-way leads to inner avenues, lined with cemeteries, kept exceedingly clean and in good order. At the extremity of one of these avenues is situated the general charnel-house, where the bones are piled in accumulating masses. After a certain lapse of time, the bones of individuals are taken from the cemeteries, bound together, and a large label, with their names inscribed upon it, affixed to them, then piled upon the bones of their predecessors in the charnel house, where two tapers are constantly burning; and it is not uncommon for the relatives of the deceased to visit this house of the dead on a certain day in the year, offering prayers in their behalf.

The bodies of the churches are open spaces, without seats or pews, and the women sit down in the Turkish style; they, as well as the men, occasionally fall upon their knees, and, during mass, go through the ceremonies of crossing their foreheads, chins, and breasts, at regular stated periods, frequently beating their bosoms with great vehemence, but which probably must not be taken as a positive demonstration of sincerity, however imposing it may outwardly appear.

The relation of one more procession will enable the reader to form some estimate of the religious character of this people. On the event of illness having assumed the appearance of terminating in death, the Host is conducted by one or more padres, and its usual attendants, in much pomp, with a burning of incense and the tinkling of bells, to the house of the dying person, to afford him the last consolations of his religion.

The procession of the Host requires from the public more obsequious reverence than all the other component ingredients of the Catholic faith. Many persons prostrate themselves before it on their knees, in the streets and balconies; others bend the body, and all take off their hats. I have frequently met this procession some miles in the country, the padre mounted on horseback, carrying with the same facility as an umbrella, a canopy in his hand, and under its sacred shade the Host, or emblem of the Holy Ghost, accompanied by some attendants uncovered, and robed in scarlet cloaks, also on horseback; the whole moving on at a quick ambling pace, with the tinkling of bells, the peculiarity of which announces their approach, producing an universal prostration of all persons, white and black, who may be in the fields or houses adjoining the road. There is one custom the Brazilians have, which, if sincere, cannot but be admired; every evening at sun-set, by a simultaneous movement,they take off their hats in the public streets, offer up a prayer, or repeat Avi Marias; from which they have acquired the habit of denoting that period of the evening by the term of Avi Maria. And they say so and so before Avi Maria, at Avi Maria, or after Avi Maria.

I have been in the house of a Portuguese family at Avi Maria, when they appear to repeat a short prayer, after which a general salutation takes place, by saying “boa noite,” (good evening,) and holding out their hands, as if they were mutually bestowing a blessing. It is the custom for all slaves to hold their hands out in a similar manner night and morning, as soon as they see their superiors, for the purpose of offering a blessing, while their usual expression is “Abençoa senhor.”

Rio de Janeiro, although the residence of the court, is centuries behind in the comforts and enjoyments of civilized life. Strangers are disgusted with a first ramble through this city, and would not voluntarily pay it a second visit. Friendly attention to foreigners, although they may have letters of introduction, the Brazilians are seldom or ever known to practise. After some ceremony, they follow the person introduced to the top of the stairs, wait there till he arrives at the bottom, subject him to the further form of turning round to receive their final salutation, and thus the matter briefly ends. How different to the refinement of their neighbouring colonists, the Spaniards, whose houses and tertulas, at Monte Video, at Buenos Ayres, and all other parts of Spanish America, are open to strangers, who experience every liberality and social attention from them. I was assured by an English gentleman, who has resided ten years in the Brazil, that he never witnessed any symptom of genuine hospitality, and he had notwithstanding acted with friendship to many; and to one gentleman, in particular, he had rendered frequent services, at whose house he had called on various occasions, and sometimes casually at the dinner hour, but was never invited to take dinner or any kind of refreshment. Even the principal people have no idea of the comforts of the table; when they give feasts, it is with an extravagant profusion of dishes, without any regard to the arrangement, and unattended with any of that elegant ease and order practised by similar classes in most European countries.

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