Size of Brick
The dimensions of the standard size face brick adopted by the American Face Brick Association are 8" × 21/4" × 33/4"; but sometimes, due to special conditions in the clay or the kiln burn, these brick may slightly vary from the dimensions given. Besides, there are other sizes of brick used, such as pavers, Romans, etc., so that the contractor should always ascertain the exact size of the brick specified, whether standard size or not, and take into consideration the width of mortar joint desired, in order to calculate more accurately the number of bricks required for a given wall area.
The following table gives the number of standard size brick per square foot of wall surface, 4 inches or one brick thick, estimated for different widths of mortar joint up to3/4-inch:
TABLE 1
Number of Face Brick per Square Foot
General Rule
The method employed in getting these numbers is very simple and may be applied to any sized brick and joint whatsoever. Thus, take the brick given in the accompanying illustration (Fig. 58) and let us use, say, a3/8" mortar joint. This makes a length of 81/4" +3/8", or 85/8" and a height of 23/8" +3/8" or 23/4". Hence, the total area occupied in the wall by this brick, with its mortar joint, is 85/8" × 23/4". You can work this out by tractions, thus,69/8×11/4=759/32; or by decimals, thus, 8.625 × 2. 75 = 23.72, the area of the brick and mortar joint in square inches.
Fig. 58. Brick and Mortar Joint
Fig. 58. Brick and Mortar Joint
In either case, to get the number of brick required per square foot you, of course, divide into 144, the number of square inches in a square foot. That is, 144 ÷759/32= 144 ×32/759=4608/759= 654/759or about 61/15. Or divide 144 by 23.72 and you get 6.07, which amounts to your previous figure. In estimating the whole number of brick you need, use no fraction less than the eighth next above the fraction obtained in your number for the square foot. Thus in the present example, you will count on using 61/8brick for every square foot of wall area.
Quantities for Various Bonds
As Table 1 gives the quantities for standard size brick laid in Running Bond, additional allowances must be made for the number of brick when other bonds using headers are employed. The following percentages are to be added to the number of brick required, as calculated by the use of Table 1, when the face brick are laid in the bonds indicated:
TABLE 2
Percentages Added for Various Bonds
For garden walls, porch walls, and other places where an 8-inch wall is used, with face brick on both sides, no additional brick are required for any type of bond.
For walks and floors where the brick are laid on edge, in any pattern except diagonal ones, calculate as you would for the number of face brick in a wall laid in running bond. For her- ring-bone pattern or other diagonal work, an additional number of brick will be required to compensate for the clipping of the ends of the brick at the borders. The exact additional amount depends on the total width of the walk or floor, as the wider the surface the smaller will be the average wastage per square foot. Walks and floors where the brick are laid flat require one-third less than the number required where the brick are laid on edge.
Provided with these tables, it is a simple matter to calculate the number of face brick required for every job.
Thus, estimate the total area of wall surface in square feet, deduct all openings, except those 10 square feet or less, and taking into consideration the mortar joint, multiply the result by the number of brick per square foot as shown in Table 1. This will give you the number required for Running Bond. For other bonds simply add to the number of brick obtained for Running Bond the percentages as given in Table 2. Soldier courses make no difference in the count; nor do rowlock courses, if half brick only are used. Although window sills laid rowlock fashion require additional brick, these are amply provided for in the usual allowances for wastage.
Wastage
If the workmen are careful to use bats for closures, instead of breaking whole bricks, no waste need be figured. The area of the small openings, not deducted in figuring quantities, and the doubling of brick at the corners, will give a certain number of extra brick; and, as it is the usual custom to order the brick to the quarter-thousand next above the actual number figured, the ordinary wastage on the job will be provided for.
If the number of square feet of face brick where there is no common brick or tile backing, such as chimneys, porch walls, steps, floors, etc., is kept separated from the number of square feet of face brick with backing, then the latter number of square feet, once obtained, may be used in figuring the number of common brick or tile required for backing, thus saving the contractor time in estimating.
Estimating Quantities of Common Brick
As the sizes of common brick, for all practical purposes, approximate the size of the standard face brick, their quantity may be calculated on the same basis. Thus, for a single thickness of common brick backing, the number required will be practically the same as that of the face brick laid in Running Bond. If, however, two or more thicknesses of backing brick are used, the proper deductions should be made for the thickness of the walls at the corners.
Two thicknesses of common brick backing will, of course, take just twice the number for one thickness, and so on. In a word, multiply the number required for face brick by the number of thicknesses or tiers of the common brick backing, always considering the turns at the corners, as just indicated. Where other than Running Bond is used in the facing brick, allowance should be made for the common brick displaced by the bonding face brick. The deduction in the number of common brick, it is evident, just equals the increased number of face brick required for the bond selected.
In estimating quantities of common brick for fireplaces, figure the portions projecting beyond the line of the wall, such as breast and ash pit, as if solid, that is, the number of brick for the surface multiplied by the number of tiers deep, and then deduct the number of bricks displaced by all flues and openings, face brick facing, and fire brick lining.
Estimating Quantities of Hollow Tile
Hollow tile for backing, as already indicated, may be obtained in the following sizes:
Stock Tile Sizes
4' × 5" × 12" (turned, 5" × 4" × 12")4' × 12" × 12"6' × 12" × 12" (sometimes 6" × 5" × 12")8' × 5" × 12"8' × 12" × 12"
Fig. 59. Stock Tile Units
Fig. 59. Stock Tile Units
When ordering the 5" × 12" tile shapes, which are laid on the side, the contractor should state that the usual allowance of 6-inch and 9-inch length cuts be included for use in piers and other narrow places, so as to reduce the cutting of tile on the job to a minimum; also, enough half and full closures should be ordered for use at window and door openings. SeeFig. 59and Hollow Tile Problem on opposite page. When it comes to the case of the 12" × 12" tile, it is an easy matter for bricklayers to split off one or more cells to get the proper shapes for closures, but the usual allowance of half-lengths should be ordered. Enough 1-inch tile slabs should be included for use in leveling up the wall for joist bearings.
Tile is calculated in terms of pieces, and to arrive at the number required, use the same square feet dimensions you would for common brick backing and multiply by the proper one of the following coefficients:
Coefficients for Tile Quantities
As the face brick is bonded to the tile backing by a double header bonding course, as shown onpage 25, the amount of tile will have to be reduced accordingly. For instance, if 12" × 12" tile are used, the bonding course occurs every sixth course and one-sixth of the tile should be deducted, but at the same time, there must be added brick-size hollow tile at the rate of 12 to every 20 square feet of wall surface for use behind the stretchers in the bonding courses.
Or, if 5" × 12" tile are used, the bonding course occurs every fifth course and one-fifth of the tile should be deducted, and brick-size hollow tile at the rate of 12 to every 16 square feet of wall surface should be added for use behind the stretchers in the bonding courses. When the backing is 8 inches thick, an additional course of brick-size tile should be calculated behind every bonding course. If the brick-size tile cannot be obtained in the local market, an equal number of common brick will answer the purpose just as well. Two to three per cent should be added to all tile quantities calculated, to provide for waste.
In giving the following examples of estimating quantities it is not meant to indicate that each wall of the house is necessarily to be estimated by itself, but simply to show the way of estimating any extent of wall. Except in very elaborate and diverse elevations, the best way is to figure on the total surface of the four sides in one operation. This is the more easily done as, generally speaking, opposite sides of the house are of like area.
Brick Problem
To find the number of standard size brick, face and common, laid in a sixth course Common Bond with a3/8-inch joint, for an 8-inch gable wall, 25 feet wide and 18 feet high from grade to eaves and thence to ridgepole 12 feet. The 12-inch basement wall is 71/2feet high, 4% feet being below grade. There are 4 windows each requiring an opening of 3'-6" × 5'-2" and 1 window requiring an opening of 2'-6" × 4'-2". See window sizespage 22. The basement windows being less than 10 square feet are disregarded.
Face Brick
Common Brick
Hollow Tile Problem
By referring topages 25 and 26, it will be seen that four courses of brick with a3/8-inch joint equal in height two 5" × 12" tile, so that, in our present example, if we wish to use the3/8-inch joint, we shall have to introduce our bonding course of brick every fifth instead of every sixth course. This would also naturally involve a slight change in the number of face brick required. That is, instead of adding 162/3% or we should have to add 20% or1/5to the number required for Running Bond, in order to get the right number for fifth course Common Bond and, in consequence, we subtract 20% or one fifth from the backing tile wanted. With these changes understood, our problem for a hollow tile backing for the gable wall will work out as follows:
If the hollow tile backing is started at grade, the tile and face brick area will be the same. But as, in the present case, we start the tile backing from the first floor, we subtract the area of the wall from grade to first floor or 25' × 3' = 75', and get 517 - 75 or 442 sq. ft. to be backed with tile.
The closures for horizontal tile are figured separately. A full and a half closure are respectively 12 and 6 inches in length and amount to about one foot in height, and hence cover an area of3/4sq. ft. on each side or 11/2sq. ft. on both sides of the opening. As the height of our five window openings is approximately 25 feet, we have 25 × 11/2= 371/2sq. ft. to be deducted from area of regular tile surface, giving 442 - 371/2or 4041/2sq. ft.
Estimating Labor Required
Placing Brick and Tile
The usual method of estimating the labor bill for brickwork or tile is to reduce it to the amount per thousand brick or tile placed, which not only covers the bricklayers' time, but the mortar, the necessary labor for mixing it, and the labor tending the bricklayers. This, of course, varies in different localities and with the different kinds of brick or tile, mortar, and joints. The contractor is urged to keep an accurate record of the number of brick or tile laid per day, the amount of mortar of various kinds used, and the number of bricklayers for which one laborer is necessary, so that he may determine for himself, from the total, the unit costs per thousand for placing brick or tile according to different specifications.
It must be carefully noted that such items as arches, piers, panels, special bond patterns, etc., require additional time for execution, depending upon their nature. The contractor will have to be guided by his own experiences in making allowances for the additional labor necessary for this work.
Building a Fireplace
It is difficult to estimate the labor required for building a fireplace, due to the variety of designs and the necessary amount of cutting and fitting required. Therefore many masons estimate this work at so much per fireplace or at a unit price per thousand brick. It may be said that a bricklayer should lay the face of a fireplace 5 to 6 feet wide and 4 to 5 feet high in ten hours, and the fire brick lining in from 4 to 6 hours. It will take about 4 hours' time to lay the entire hearth. One-half hour of laborer's time should be allowed for every hour of bricklayers' time.
Cleaning Brickwork
The cost of cleaning and pointing face brickwork will vary with the kind of brick to be cleaned, as it is easier to clean brick with a smooth surface than with a rough texture. An experienced man should clean 95 to 100 smooth brick or 75 to 80 rough brick per hour.
Waterproofing Foundation Walls
For one-half inch plaster coating, composed of one part Portland cement to two parts sand, 2 bags Portland cement and 4 cubic feet of sand will be required to cover one square, that is, 100 sq. ft. of wall surface, and it will require one-half hour of laborer's time for mixing. An experienced workman and helper should cover from 40 to 45 sq. ft. of surface per hour.
For a coating either of hot asphalt or of pitch, to be well applied with a heavy mop, approximately 200 pounds of material and a half day for two men will be required to cover 10 squares of wall surface. About one gallon of creosote sizing would be required per square, with only one-half to a quarter as much labor as for the waterproofing.
Handling of Materials
The storage space for all materials should be convenient to the building, and where the team can reach it so that rehandling may be avoided.
Face Brick
When face brick are delivered on the job, they should be immediately compared with the sample, previously selected, for color, size, and quality, to prevent any misunderstanding later when they are laid in the wall. If shipped by freight, they should be examined before being unloaded from the car. Face brick should be stacked in neat piles, laid either on edge, face up and protected with straw, or on their sides in such a way as to protect the faces. Laborers, in carrying face brick to the mason, should place them face up for the convenience of handling.
Common Brick and Tile
Except on large jobs, common brick are not usually stacked. They are dumped in a pile which makes it easier to wet them down thoroughly as explained later. Hollow tile should be stacked in neat piles to prevent undue breakage, each size and shape being piled separately.
Lime and Cement
Lump lime should always be stored in a covered box to keep it dry. This box should have a hinged opening on one side, at the bottom, from which the lime may be conveniently removed. Lump lime should be slaked at least a week before used to allow for thorough hydration and cooling. Hydrated lime and cement should be carefully protected from the weather by stacking the sacks on planks laid on the ground and by a covering of planks and tarpaulin.
Sand
The sand pile should be located as near the mortar box as possible for convenience in handling. In case the sand needs screening, an the sand pile should be located at such a distance from the mortar box that when the sand is thrown through the sieve, it will form a pile adjacent to the mortar box.
Wetting Common Brick
All brick, especially the softer grades of common brick, should be thoroughly wetted just before being placed in the wall, but not made so wet as to cause sliding on the mortar. The object of this wetting is to prevent the bricks from absorbing moisture from the mortar which must be allowed to dry slowly so as to obtain a good bond. If they are laid dry, thebricks will quickly take up a large amount of water from the mortar, preventing proper setting and adhesion. Water increases the weight of brick and consequently the labor of handling, so that some workmen are inclined to lay them dry. This should not be allowed except in freezing weather, when the conditions require quicker setting. Good mortar bond is essential to a good wall.
Work Done in Cold Weather
In latitudes where the winter temperature is prevailingly below freezing, all material for mortar, including water, should be heated. If this is done, the mortar will take its initial set before it freezes and no damage will result. In extremely cold weather, added precautions should be taken in case of footings by protecting them with manure. The following suggestions will be found useful for cold weather work.
When being laid the brick should be thoroughly dry; and if possible warmed. No bricks with ice on them should be laid in the wall, and cement or cement-lime mortar should be used to get quick setting. For heating sand and gravel, a corrugated sheet metal culvert, about 20 inches in diameter and about 10 feet long, may be used. A wood fire is built in the ends of the pipe over which the sand and gravel are piled. This easy and simple method will melt all frozen lumps in the material and dry out the resulting moisture.
Where city water pressure is available, the water may be heated in a coil attached to the main and large enough to have a fire built in the center, a very simple and efficient method which any plumber can easily install. Place a sheet-iron guard around the coil to conserve the heat. This equipment proves very satisfactory, as it warms the water as fast as it is drawn off through the hose. The entire installation may be found on the market at a comparatively small cost. Without such an arrangement the water may be heated in an ordinary iron kettle over a wood fire. Water should never be heated to the boiling point, as too high a temperature will injure the setting properties of the mortar.
A temperature of about 165 degrees, or the same as generally required for household uses, is best.
If the above conditions are met, brickwork may be continued practically throughout the entire winter, except only so far as the comfort of the workmen dictates. They will usually quit at about 20 degrees above zero, depending somewhat upon other weather conditions. If it is not too windy, they will work outside in a lower temperature than when it is very windy. A shelter, however, may very easily be constructed for the workmen by nailing a few 2" × 4" scantlings upright to the scaffolding with another 2" × 4" nailed along the top as a support for a tarpaulin. A salamander behind this shelter will make it quite comfortable for the workmen as well as help the mortar to set. As the use of wood in the salamander makes a too intense and irregular heat, besides giving off more or less smoke, coke is recommended. The amount of coke required on an ordinary job is so small as to be almost negligible.
The wall at any one point should not be carried very high in one day. It is better to work around the entire building a few feet at a time rather than to work on one side and carry the wall six or more feet high. Walls thus erected are apt to get out of plumb from the alternating effect of the night cold and the day sun.
As soon as the floor joists of any story are set in place and floored, the window and door openings of the floor below should be tightly closed, either by the permanent sash or by temporary boarding or building paper, so that salamanders may be placed inside to dry out the building thoroughly. Once a day the building should be aired.
If the above suggestions are followed, there is no reason why brickwork should not be continued through the average winter months. The extra work accomplished during the usually dull season is worth more to the contractor than the trouble he has taken or the additional cost of labor.
Angle Iron.A structural piece of steel in the form of a 90° angle used in certain situations to sustain brickwork.Backing.The part of the wall behind the face brick.Bat.Any part of a brick intentionally or accidentally broken off.Bed.The horizontal surface on which the bricks of the wall lie in courses. Also, the mortar on which the brick rest.Bed Joint.A joint between two horizontal courses of brick.Belt Course.A horizontal course of brick or other material usually projecting, and generally in line with window sills or heads.Bench-Mark.A well defined mark, accurately established, in a protected location on some immovable object, as a point of reference.Bond.The overlapping of brick in various ways so as to give both longitudinal and transverse strength to the wall, and at the same time produce a pleasing appearance.Breaking Joint.The placing of brick so that no two vertical or head joints come immediately over one another.Buttered Joint.A very thin mortar joint made by scraping a small quantity of mortar with the trowel on all edges of the brick and laying it without the usual mortar bed.Cell.One of the hollow spaces in building tile.Centering.The temporary frame or template on which an arch is turned.Chase.A vertical recess on the inside face of a wall formed by omitting one or more bricks in each course to accommodate plumbing, heating, or other pipes.Chimney Breast.The projection on the interior or exterior face of a wall caused by fireplace or flues.Closure.A quarter or three-quarter brick to close, when required, the end of a course, as distinguished from a half-brick. This term equally applies to tile.Coping.A row of brick, usually projecting, used to cap or finish the top of a wall and protect it from the weather. It is usually laid up in very rich Portland cement mortar with tooled joints.Corbel.One or more courses of brick projecting from the wall to form a support.Course.A horizontal row of brick in a wall.Culling.Sorting brick for size, color, and quality.Culls.The brick rejected in culling.Diaper.Any continuous pattern in brickwork of which the various bonds are examples. It is usually applied however, to diamond or other diagonal patterns.Edge-set.A brick set on its narrow instead of on its flat side.Efflorescence.The deposition of a white powder or crust on the surface of brickwork, due to soluble salts usually in the mortar but sometimes in the brick, and, drawn out with the moisture by the sun, left as a deposit on the surface. Brick clays containing these salts are now cured by using a carbonate of barium. Against mortar efflorescence care should be taken to protect all brickwork at eaves and sill courses from excessive moisture. Also Whitewash or Whitewashing.Face Brick.A well-burned brick, especially prepared, selected, and handled to secure attractive appearance in the face of a wall, as distinguished from common brick as used for backing or other structural work.Face.The long, narrow side of a brick, specially treated in the manufacture of face brick to produce certain color tones and textures.Fire Stop.A projection of brickwork on the walls between the joists to prevent the spread of fire or vermin.Flat Stretcher Course.A course of stretchers set on edge and exposing their flat sides on the surface of the wall. Frequently done with brick finished for the purpose on the flat side, such as enameled or glazed brick.Flue.A passage in a chimney especially for the exit of smoke and gases, one or more of which may be enclosed in the same chimney.Flue Lining.A smooth one-celled hollow tile for protecting flues.Footing.The broadened base of a foundation wall, or other super-structure.Green Brickwork.Brickwork in which the mortar has not yet set.Grout.Rich mortar made very thin so that it will readily run into the joints of brickwork and fill them.Header.A brick laid on its flat side across the thickness of the wall, so as to show the end of the brick on the surface of the wall.Header Course.A course composed entirely of headers.Head Joint.A joint between the ends of two bricks in the same course. Also Vertical Joint.Hearth.That portion of a fireplace level with the floor, upon which the fire is built. The rear portion extending into the fire opening is known as the back hearth.Lead.A part of the wall at the corners, or elsewhere when needed, built in advance of the rest of the wall as a guide to which the line is attached.Lime Putty.Slaked lime in a soft puttylike condition before sand or cement is added.Line.The string stretched taut from lead to lead as a guide for laying the top edge of a brick course.Lintel.A horizontal support for brickwork over an opening.Mantel.A shelf projecting beyond the chimney breast above the fireplace opening.Nogging.A filling of brick between the roof rafters from wall plate to roof boards for the purpose of making the building wind-tight.Pointing.Inserting mortar into the joints after the brickwork is completed, in order to correct defects left in the progress of the work.Quoins.Projecting courses of brick at the corners of buildings as ornamental features.Racking.Laying the end of the wall with a series of steps so that when work is resumed, the bond can be easily continued. More convenient and structurally better than toothing.Reveal.The vertical side of a window or door opening from face of wall to frame.Rowlock Course.A course of headers laid on the edge instead of on the flat side of the brick as usual.Salmon Brick.The softer brick of the kiln suitable for places protected from outside exposure or where great crushing strength is not required.Selects.The bricks accepted as the best after culling.Shove Joint.A vertical joint filled by shoving the brick, when it is being laid in the bed of mortar, against the next brick. Also Shoved Joint.Skewback.In brickwork, a brick or stone cut to make an inclined surface for receiving thrust or pressure, as of an arch.Slush Joint.A vertical joint filled by throwing mortar in with the trowel after the bricks are laid. Also Slushed Joint.Smoke Chamber.The space in a fireplace immediately above the throat, where the smoke gathers before passing into the flue, and narrowed by corbeling to the size of the flue lining above. Also Smoke Cavern.Soldier Course.A course of stretchers set on end with the face showing on the wall surface.Splay.A slope or bevel, particularly at the sides of a window or door.Story Pole.A pole on which the height from joist to joist, as well as all intermediate openings, brick courses, etc., is indicated.Stretcher.A brick laid on its flat side so as to show its face on the surface of the wall.Template.Any form or pattern, such as centering, over which brickwork may be formed.Thickness of Wall.The thickness of a wall stated in terms of brick, inches, or tiers, thus:
Angle Iron.A structural piece of steel in the form of a 90° angle used in certain situations to sustain brickwork.
Backing.The part of the wall behind the face brick.
Bat.Any part of a brick intentionally or accidentally broken off.
Bed.The horizontal surface on which the bricks of the wall lie in courses. Also, the mortar on which the brick rest.
Bed Joint.A joint between two horizontal courses of brick.
Belt Course.A horizontal course of brick or other material usually projecting, and generally in line with window sills or heads.
Bench-Mark.A well defined mark, accurately established, in a protected location on some immovable object, as a point of reference.
Bond.The overlapping of brick in various ways so as to give both longitudinal and transverse strength to the wall, and at the same time produce a pleasing appearance.
Breaking Joint.The placing of brick so that no two vertical or head joints come immediately over one another.
Buttered Joint.A very thin mortar joint made by scraping a small quantity of mortar with the trowel on all edges of the brick and laying it without the usual mortar bed.
Cell.One of the hollow spaces in building tile.
Centering.The temporary frame or template on which an arch is turned.
Chase.A vertical recess on the inside face of a wall formed by omitting one or more bricks in each course to accommodate plumbing, heating, or other pipes.
Chimney Breast.The projection on the interior or exterior face of a wall caused by fireplace or flues.
Closure.A quarter or three-quarter brick to close, when required, the end of a course, as distinguished from a half-brick. This term equally applies to tile.
Coping.A row of brick, usually projecting, used to cap or finish the top of a wall and protect it from the weather. It is usually laid up in very rich Portland cement mortar with tooled joints.
Corbel.One or more courses of brick projecting from the wall to form a support.
Course.A horizontal row of brick in a wall.
Culling.Sorting brick for size, color, and quality.
Culls.The brick rejected in culling.
Diaper.Any continuous pattern in brickwork of which the various bonds are examples. It is usually applied however, to diamond or other diagonal patterns.
Edge-set.A brick set on its narrow instead of on its flat side.
Efflorescence.The deposition of a white powder or crust on the surface of brickwork, due to soluble salts usually in the mortar but sometimes in the brick, and, drawn out with the moisture by the sun, left as a deposit on the surface. Brick clays containing these salts are now cured by using a carbonate of barium. Against mortar efflorescence care should be taken to protect all brickwork at eaves and sill courses from excessive moisture. Also Whitewash or Whitewashing.
Face Brick.A well-burned brick, especially prepared, selected, and handled to secure attractive appearance in the face of a wall, as distinguished from common brick as used for backing or other structural work.
Face.The long, narrow side of a brick, specially treated in the manufacture of face brick to produce certain color tones and textures.
Fire Stop.A projection of brickwork on the walls between the joists to prevent the spread of fire or vermin.
Flat Stretcher Course.A course of stretchers set on edge and exposing their flat sides on the surface of the wall. Frequently done with brick finished for the purpose on the flat side, such as enameled or glazed brick.
Flue.A passage in a chimney especially for the exit of smoke and gases, one or more of which may be enclosed in the same chimney.
Flue Lining.A smooth one-celled hollow tile for protecting flues.
Footing.The broadened base of a foundation wall, or other super-structure.
Green Brickwork.Brickwork in which the mortar has not yet set.
Grout.Rich mortar made very thin so that it will readily run into the joints of brickwork and fill them.
Header.A brick laid on its flat side across the thickness of the wall, so as to show the end of the brick on the surface of the wall.
Header Course.A course composed entirely of headers.
Head Joint.A joint between the ends of two bricks in the same course. Also Vertical Joint.
Hearth.That portion of a fireplace level with the floor, upon which the fire is built. The rear portion extending into the fire opening is known as the back hearth.
Lead.A part of the wall at the corners, or elsewhere when needed, built in advance of the rest of the wall as a guide to which the line is attached.
Lime Putty.Slaked lime in a soft puttylike condition before sand or cement is added.
Line.The string stretched taut from lead to lead as a guide for laying the top edge of a brick course.
Lintel.A horizontal support for brickwork over an opening.
Mantel.A shelf projecting beyond the chimney breast above the fireplace opening.
Nogging.A filling of brick between the roof rafters from wall plate to roof boards for the purpose of making the building wind-tight.
Pointing.Inserting mortar into the joints after the brickwork is completed, in order to correct defects left in the progress of the work.
Quoins.Projecting courses of brick at the corners of buildings as ornamental features.
Racking.Laying the end of the wall with a series of steps so that when work is resumed, the bond can be easily continued. More convenient and structurally better than toothing.
Reveal.The vertical side of a window or door opening from face of wall to frame.
Rowlock Course.A course of headers laid on the edge instead of on the flat side of the brick as usual.
Salmon Brick.The softer brick of the kiln suitable for places protected from outside exposure or where great crushing strength is not required.
Selects.The bricks accepted as the best after culling.
Shove Joint.A vertical joint filled by shoving the brick, when it is being laid in the bed of mortar, against the next brick. Also Shoved Joint.
Skewback.In brickwork, a brick or stone cut to make an inclined surface for receiving thrust or pressure, as of an arch.
Slush Joint.A vertical joint filled by throwing mortar in with the trowel after the bricks are laid. Also Slushed Joint.
Smoke Chamber.The space in a fireplace immediately above the throat, where the smoke gathers before passing into the flue, and narrowed by corbeling to the size of the flue lining above. Also Smoke Cavern.
Soldier Course.A course of stretchers set on end with the face showing on the wall surface.
Splay.A slope or bevel, particularly at the sides of a window or door.
Story Pole.A pole on which the height from joist to joist, as well as all intermediate openings, brick courses, etc., is indicated.
Stretcher.A brick laid on its flat side so as to show its face on the surface of the wall.
Template.Any form or pattern, such as centering, over which brickwork may be formed.
Thickness of Wall.The thickness of a wall stated in terms of brick, inches, or tiers, thus:
Throat.An opening at the top of a fireplace through which the smoke passes to the smoke chamber and chimney.Tier.One of the four-inch, or one-brick, layers in the thickness of a wall. (Gilbreth).Toothing.The method of building the end of a wall so that the end stretcher of every alternate course projects one-half its length, against which another wall may be built.Toothing-in.Joining a new wall to an old toothed wall.Trimmer Arch.A brick arch built in front of and below a fireplace opening to support the hearth, abutting on the fireplace foundation and thrusting against the header joist.Tuck-pointing.The filling in of joints in old brickwork with fresh mortar, usually cement.Vertical Joint.Same as Head Joint.Washing Down.Cleaning the surface of the brick wall, after it is completed and pointed, with a mild solution of muriatic acid.Water Table.A slight projection of the lower courses of brickwork at the base of a building.Webb.The thin wall bounding and separating the cells in hollow tile.Whitewashing, Whitewash. See Efflorescence.Wind Shelf.The ledge back of the damper at the bottom of the smoke cavern.Withe.A partition between two flues in the same chimney.
Throat.An opening at the top of a fireplace through which the smoke passes to the smoke chamber and chimney.
Tier.One of the four-inch, or one-brick, layers in the thickness of a wall. (Gilbreth).
Toothing.The method of building the end of a wall so that the end stretcher of every alternate course projects one-half its length, against which another wall may be built.
Toothing-in.Joining a new wall to an old toothed wall.
Trimmer Arch.A brick arch built in front of and below a fireplace opening to support the hearth, abutting on the fireplace foundation and thrusting against the header joist.
Tuck-pointing.The filling in of joints in old brickwork with fresh mortar, usually cement.
Vertical Joint.Same as Head Joint.
Washing Down.Cleaning the surface of the brick wall, after it is completed and pointed, with a mild solution of muriatic acid.
Water Table.A slight projection of the lower courses of brickwork at the base of a building.
Webb.The thin wall bounding and separating the cells in hollow tile.
Whitewashing, Whitewash. See Efflorescence.
Wind Shelf.The ledge back of the damper at the bottom of the smoke cavern.
Withe.A partition between two flues in the same chimney.