Leave Sockna — Stop at Hammam — Well of Temedd — Sufferings of the Slaves — Arrive at Bonjem — Danger on the Desert — Zemzem — Sofageen — Storm in the Mountains — See two Roman Ruins — Arrive at Zleetun — Description of that Place — Leave Zleetun — Visit Lebida — Illness — Arrival at Tripoli — Account of the Negroes of the Kafflé — General Notices of the Desert — Belford’s bad State of Health — Departure from Tripoli — Pass Quarantine at Leghorn — Return over the Continent to England.
Friday, 3rd of March.—Hadge Mohammed brought a poor girl to me for advice. She was very feverish and light-headed, and complained of excessive pain in the chest, for which I bled and gave her some cooling medicine. At seven we proceeded, having filled water for three days, the well immediately before us being unfit to drink; our road lay over a gravelly plain. At 12.15. mountains closed in from the left to those on the right, which at the distance of half a mile ran parallel to our road; they were of yellow limestone and sand, and all table-topped. We passed along a Wadey closely bounded by mountains, until two, when we stopped for my patient, who had lagged behind; her unfeeling master, contrary to my earnest request, having suffered her to walk, while he lazily rode a camel. She arrived in about an hour, very weak, and in much pain; and would have been beaten, had I not interposed. I gave her some cotton impregnated with lemon-juice, to steep in water,which a little refreshed her. A strong sand wind set in from the westward, and much distressed us: we had no remedy for it, but to lie down, and occasionally to rise and free ourselves from the heaps of sand which rapidly collected over our clothes. We had made this day north by east seventeen miles. In the evening, the wind having somewhat abated, I got a piece of leather sewed on to the hard skin under my Maherry’s foot.
Saturday, March 4th.—Fine morning. We went on about two miles to a well called Temedd, the water of which is black, and resembles in taste Glauber’s salts, and cabbage water. My horse refused to drink it; but a large supply was laid in for the poor slaves. At 9.30. left the well, and at 10.15. turned off through two mountains north-east by east. The Wadey we had just left runs three miles north of the well, and is called Tarr. At 10.15. opened on a gravelly plain; at five stopped amongst a few little low bushes. The pass through which we had come bore south 15° west, and we had made from it about fourteen miles. We had a strong blinding sand wind blowing over us all this day from the westward.
The poor girl who had ridden on a camel was now free from fever, but very weak and low-spirited. I gave her good water and cusscussou.
Sunday, 5th of March.—At 7.30. we went on, still over a sandy plain, with a few small shrubs; a strong wind, with much sand, blowing from the north-west. These winds blow in sudden gusts, and remind me of the whirlwinds called “cats’-paws” in the navy. The Negress being unable to sit upright, was lashed on the camel she rode. She continually asked for water, and complained of a severe pain in her side. I had applied a blister to it overnight, but I suspect the pain it gave her caused her to remove it. Her master troubled his head very little about her; and her voicewas, in consequence of her sufferings, so feeble, that had I not rode near her, and supplied her with water, she would have perished from thirst. At 4.50. came to rugged ground; and at 5.20. mountains closed in to the left: passed at the foot of one. At six stopped, having made about twenty-five miles north. I persuaded the girl’s master to let her remain under my care until she was a little recovered, as I should then be enabled to bestow more attention on her than he could, or was inclined to do: at this time she was very cold, quite speechless, and unable to swallow. I wrapped her up in my carpet, and made two of her fellow slaves chafe her hands and feet; but our efforts to save her were useless, and she breathed her last at eight o’clock, having, poor girl! suffered much agony. Her fellows in misery exhibited a striking difference between the mourners of civilized towns and those of savage countries: instead of screaming, and working themselves up into frenzy, they sat silent, dejected, and bathed in tears, their scanty meal remaining for a time unnoticed and untouched. The country of this poor girl was Waday, where Arabic is spoken. She was handsome, and about fourteen years of age. She told me in the morning that the fatigue of the day would kill her; and that I was the only person, except her companions, who had treated her kindly since she was taken from her mother. She had been ailing for a long time, as she said; but her master was a hard man, and she feared to complain.
Drawn from Nature by G. F. Lyon.On Stone by D. Dighton.A Slave Kaffle.London. Published by J. Murray Albemarle St. Feb.1.1821.C. Hullmandel’s Lithography.
Drawn from Nature by G. F. Lyon.On Stone by D. Dighton.A Slave Kaffle.London. Published by J. Murray Albemarle St. Feb.1.1821.C. Hullmandel’s Lithography.
A Slave Kaffle.
London. Published by J. Murray Albemarle St. Feb.1.1821.C. Hullmandel’s Lithography.
Monday, March 6th.—The girl was buried near the road; and at 7.30. we went through a pass called Hormut t’uziz,خرموت توزيز, for five miles. At ten passed an insulated hill of gravel, resembling a tent in form, and called El Khayma,الخيما, or the tent. We proceeded north 25° west through the pass, a strong south wind blowing. At twelve the tent bore south 15° east four miles. At 1.15. came from an uneven stony desert, bounded on the right by mountains,to heavy sand, called Wadey Booatila,وادي قواتلا, or “the father of Atila trees.” At 2.30. entered a broad pass; had steered from the last bearing north 16° east four miles. Two little black boys this day rode my horse, which I led; and one of them showed his gratitude to me by bringing me as a present, his allowance of dates, tied up in the tail of his shirt. At 5.45. came through Hormut t’Mohalla,خرموت المخالّه, or “the pass of the army,” to a broad plain, on which we stopped at six, having from 2.30. steered north seven miles. The slaves were very much fatigued, and with great difficulty came up with us. I always observed that the females were much less exhausted by travelling than the males; the former walked together and sung in chorus, nearly the whole day, which enlivened them and beguiled the way. Lizari had four little girls, of whom the eldest was about eight, and the youngest four years old; these children were continually playing and running after each other, yet the smaller one was always as lively after a day’s march, as at first setting out: she was apparently so little fatigued in an evening, as to be frequently reproved for keeping every one awake by her gambols. There was a merry boy too, who frequently kept the Kafflé in a roar of laughter, by mimicking the auctioneer who sold him, and several of his countrymen, at the Morzouk market a few weeks before.
Tuesday, 7th March, very cloudy close weather.—At 7.30. set out over very uneven stony ground and small sand hills, which at half a mile to the eastward, increased in size and formed a large belt of sand, about nine miles in length:—observed very distant mountains in the same direction. The road was over a bed of gypsum, partially covered in several places, by sand and white snail shells. At three passed the natural turret called Bazeenبرزين, and came to the Wadey Kliaقليه. We had proceeded north to Bazeen, and from it N.N.W. Myriads of sand flies distressed us verymuch by the sharpness of their bite. At seven we stopped at the wells and castle of Bonjemبنجم, having made thirty-five miles. We were all on the alert this night, having been informed that a party of Orfilly, or Arabs of Benioleed, were encamped in a small cluster of date trees which were in sight from the well, and robbing every one that passed. They had tapped all the palms, and were living on lackbi, and the flesh of any stray camels they could find. A little artful boy, under pretence of wanting a skin of water, came to the well to reconnoitre, and on being questioned, gave some very suspicious answers; however, I suppose the report he made of our being constantly on guard secured us a quiet rest. A very heavy dew fell during the night; and we were aware that wild animals were prowling round us.
Wednesday, March 8th.—Having filled four days’ water, at twelve went on and encamped about four miles N.W. of Bonjem, to let the camels feed on the bushes, which were in great number. The day was very sultry, and the slaves had oil given them to grease themselves. I observed, that near the wells of Bonjem, the ground swarms with a species of tick, which attacks man and beast, is very nimble, and causes severe pain by its bite.
Thursday, March 9th.—We set off at eight in a very thick fog, which rendered it impossible to distinguish objects at a few yards distance. Our road was over a hilly gravelly ground, and we passed one or two Wadeys thickly set with bushes of talhh. Here I had an attack of hemma, and remained behind with my horse, that I might lie down and relieve the pain. At about one o’clock, being a little recovered, I mounted and followed the track of the camels, but soon lost it in a gravelly plain. I proceeded, in hopes of again finding it; but as we were amongst steep hills, all of nearly the same appearance, I could form no idea between which of them the Kafflé had taken its course. I ascended the highest hill to lookfor it, straining my eyes in all directions, but to no purpose: I succeeded, however, in galloping back to the spot where I had last seen the tracks, and fired my gun, but nothing replied to me, or broke on the awful stillness around. My situation now became very alarming, and my spirits began to sink, when I viewed the fearful prospect before me, which, if I failed to regain the Kafflé, threatened me with the horrors of a lingering and painful death.
I examined my saddle-bags, and found that they contained not a single article of provision; my powder-horn had unfortunately been left on my camel; my note-book, however, was luckily in my possession, and on looking over it, I found, what was of some importance to me, that I had marked all the back bearings. I knew, that whether I advanced or retraced my steps, I should equally be two days distant from a well, and was aware that, even in reaching one, I might not have power to get at the water; my horse, at any rate, was not likely to survive two days’ privation of it. In this extremity, and not knowing what direction to take, I found my only resource to preserve life, supposing I obtained water, would be to kill my poor animal, and to subsist on his flesh, with the hope of being, in the meantime, relieved by some passing traveller: but this chance was very remote, the road we were pursuing being but little frequented; and as to any other means of extricating myself, I could devise none. After some time passed in reflecting on what might probably be my melancholy fate if left on the desert, a sudden impulse induced me to trust to the guidance of my horse, and, giving him the reins, I allowed him to take what course he chose, little imagining how nearly I approached the end of my difficulties. Whilst proceeding on my way, almost hopeless of extricating myself, and in a direction quite contrary to that which I had fancied to be the right one, I unexpectedly perceived that I had crossed the track, and was actually in a Wadey full of talhh trees,bearing evident marks of having been recently passed over by our camels. Following this sure guide, I soon found myself once more in the safe path, and my feelings at such unlooked for and providential deliverance may be more easily imagined than described. As I was riding slowly along, I discovered, out of the track, a poor Negress lying under a bush, where, overcome by fatigue and illness, she had stopped behind, unregarded, to die.
Having myself so recently escaped the horrors of a lingering death, I felt tenfold commiseration for this poor helpless being; and having with some difficulty placed her on my horse, I took her quietly along; at such a pace indeed, as much to retard coming up with my people, whom I found in great alarm about me. They feared I must have strayed on the desert, or have fallen on the road from sickness; and such were their kind feelings towards me, that they sent a camel and a supply of water, provisions, and a carpet, with two men, to seek for me in all directions. I met them at 5.30. soon after they set out, and found that the Kafflé had, on my account, stopped for the night two hours before.
When I took the slave to her master, who was not aware of her being missing, he gave me no thanks, nor allowed the poor exhausted creature any food or refreshment; and had I not been present to prevent it, he would no doubt have added to her sufferings by a severe beating. We had made, as nearly as I could judge from our winding roads, N. 15°. E. twenty-five miles.
Friday, March 10th.—At seven we set off; road over small stony hillocks. As Hadge Mohammed, who was master of the Negress, preferred riding his camel to letting her do so, I gave her up my horse. We passed through many Wadeys full of bushes—a light shower at noon, with the wind from the northward—saw several hares; and many snakes, not venemous, were killed by the people. I astonished them by taking one or two live ones in myhand: saw a very large herd of antelopes, which I was silly enough to follow; but, of course, without reaching them. At five stopped, having made about twenty miles N.E. We had a fine night, with much dew. The poor Negress was very ill and weak, although in no pain; her master pretended to be convinced that she was only affecting sickness, and beat her accordingly.
Saturday, March 11th.—At 7.30. A.M. we set out; road as yesterday. At noon came to the Wadey Zemzemزمزم, in which we found a well, of apparently Roman workmanship, and 84 feet in depth: the water was salt, and very putrid. This Wadey is of great length, running N.E. and S.W. Gherzeh is situated in it, and it runs to the sea at Tawurgha. We made eight or nine miles north; my poor Maherry was again very lame; put another sandal on him: fine warm day. A general washing and greasing took place with the whole Kafflé.
Sunday, 12th March.—We proceeded at 7.30. A.M.; road as yesterday: had a stock of water for three days. I saw a large bird resembling a goose in form; body and neck white, wings of a dusky white, barred with dark brown; it escaped me in the bushes. At four came to a stony plain, with small shrubs. At six stopped, having made about twenty miles N.W. by N.: thick oppressive weather, with swarms of sand flies; the slaves very much fatigued. I saw several coveys of partridges, and shot some birds resembling thrushes in size, but with longer tails, and of a reddish brown colour: they fly in flocks, and in their restlessness and twittering much resemble sparrows. We lay amongst some bushes, and secured our animals, as we were on the centre of a desert, and feared their straying.
Monday, 13th March.—We went onwards at 7.30. over a stony plain until noon, when we came to a broad Wadey of sand, having a few scattered shrubs, and a strong south wind darkening the airwith clouds of sand. Came to a well, but found it dry: our water was out, having been distributed without restriction. This caused no little sensation in the Kafflé, as we were said to be two days from any other well; fortunately, however, the Arabs, in wandering about, found one which had been newly made amongst some hillocks, about a mile from our track. Many flocks of large blue pigeons were flying round us. I shot one in very good condition. We travelled north-north-west ten miles.
Tuesday, 14th March.—At 7.30. went on, the weather very fine; had two fruitless chases after partridges and gazelles. The sick Negress rode my horse, and was abused every five minutes by her master for feigning sickness. I yesterday shot an owl of the size of a dove, and having very beautiful plumage; its eyes were marked black and yellow in circles, and it had those bunches of feathers, called horns, on each side the head. This day it became so putrid that I was obliged to give up the idea of stuffing it. At about a mile from our resting-place, was the water I have spoken of. We filled our gerbas there, but it was very bad, and my horse, as in a former case, refused to drink it. At 5.30. we halted, not having made more than fifteen miles, as our camels stopped repeatedly to eat. We went on about north-north-west: passed this day several spots with young corn growing, belonging to the Orfilly Arabs. The wadey we were in is called Sofajeenصوفجين, and is of great extent from east to west.
Wednesday, 15th March.—We found that three of our camels had strayed in the night, two of mine, and one of Lizari’s. We sent Arabs in search of them, and waited until noon, when we loaded the other camels, leaving the loads of the stray ones with two Arabs, together with some water and provisions. As there was no water for the slaves, we were obliged to move on, intending tosend camels back from Zleetun, when, fortunately, our wanderers made their appearance.
A fine cold north wind from the sea reminded us that we were once again in its vicinity. At three, clouds rose round us, and very heavy rain fell on the neighbouring hills, accompanied by thunder and lightning: it soon after reached us, and we encamped in a small wadey, having travelled north six miles. The provisions of the whole Kafflé had nearly failed, and many of the Arabs had, during this day, only a handful of dates.
Thursday, 16th March.—Heavy black clouds all round us. At 7.15. we set off, but at eight were obliged to stop again (having gone north one mile and a half). The rain falling in torrents, we put up our tents and goods, as well as the time would admit, on a rising ground near a wadey, which was soon partially flooded. I sheltered twenty-six poor shivering girls and four boys in my tent, and we were of course pretty well crowded. I managed to put dry clothes on some of them, and to make them more comfortable. At noon the rain ceased for a time, and we had occasionally light showers during the rest of the day. Belford and myself sallied out, and, kneeling down, drank sweet water for the first time since leaving Tripoli, with a zest greater than any toper ever felt on tasting the most exquisite wine. I observed that the fresh water caused me very severe pain in the bowels, and occasioned a sensation of fulness in the chest. A snake was killed by the Negroes, nearly seven feet in length, but so much mutilated that it was impossible for me to skin it.
Friday, March 17th.—Last night the poor sick Negress died from fatigue and the united effects of cold and rain. Showers during the night. The morning was fine, and at seven we took our road over a flat of yellow sandy earth, covered with grass and smallbushes; in many places the ground bore marks of the plough. At noon we had travelled north 10° west, ten miles, when the sky became much overcast. We lost our road until this period, and now having found it, proceeded north 20° east. At five the rain came on, and we encamped on some small hillocks in the wadey, having made fourteen miles since noon. Total, twenty-four miles. The latter part of our road was hilly and full of wadeys. Our tents were no sooner pitched than very heavy rain came on, in a tremendous storm (called Gherraقرّهby the Arabs): thunder and lightning close to us. The noise was tremendous, and the wadey before us was quickly filled with a roaring torrent, sweeping all before it: happily, the tents were on a rising ground, which prevented them from being washed away. The mountain torrent continued all night. I had often heard these storms spoken of, but always imagined that the accounts given of them were much exaggerated; I now found that the description did not at all come up to this night’s tempest. Sixteen poor Negresses took shelter with me, and remained under the carpet, full of gratitude at being protected from a storm, the noise of which made them tremble.
Saturday, 18th March.—A fine morning; fresh north-east wind blowing. We had a general clothes drying, and the slaves were oiled. At nine went on over high hills covered with stinted bushes. We saw a few Arabs with their cattle and flocks in the wadeys. At noon, having passed over a green plain, came to the gardens and corn-fields of Zleetunزليتن. The country was very flat, and some spots of near a mile in length appeared as if they had been flooded during the night. The ground was so slippery that some of the camels fell with their loads, and were with great difficulty re-loaded and placed upon their legs again. The nature of the foot of a camel is such, that the animal never falls or stumbles when on flat or dry ground; even on rocks it is sure-footed, but on mud it feelsits inability to walk, and trembles at every joint, slipping, or rather sliding as it goes. It sometimes happens that a fall on wet ground occasions the death of the animal by splitting open its fore legs. Old Baba Hassein’s camel fell first, with him upon it, which raised a general shout of joy throughout the whole Kafflé. The Arabs most religiously believed that the tempest of yesterday, and the falls of to-day, were owing to his never having given his Bousaferr; and to the same cause was attributed our many delays in coming from Sockna, because “Ma fi el Barcaمافي الباركا” there was not the blessing on the Kafflé.
A considerable time elapsed before we succeeded in finding the Gusba, or Castle; at last, to our great delight, we gained an entrance, though not till after we had all been well drenched by two or three heavy showers. My fellow travellers took such rooms as had roofs water proof, while Belford and myself preferred pitching our tent in the yard; by that means avoiding, in some measure, the multitude of fleas found in these buildings. We had travelled this day north 15° east, seven miles.
I think it necessary to mention, that near our last resting-place I found two Roman ruins, one about a mile north-east of the other. In one, the foundations of two or three rooms are perfect, as are the bases of some very large pillars; the other has part of a wall standing, with several square niches in it. The stones which compose these buildings are some of them seven feet in length by three in breadth, and appear to have been mortised into each other.
On our rising the tops of the mountains we observed with great joy the sea, beating on some shoals at a distance from the shore; but we could not see the beach, as it was hidden from us by the sands of Zleetun. To the great astonishment of my fellow travellers, who no doubt thought me mad, I chanted God save the King, and Rule Britannia, as loud as I could roar. The poor slaves lookedforward to the mighty river before them with wonder and fear, and I believe at that moment all the stories they had heard of “the people on the great waters who eat the Blacks,” recurred to their imagination. It blew a heavy gale from the north-east, and the white foam added not a little to the imposing appearance of this (to them) terrific water.
The houses of Zleetun are scattered about amongst palms and olive trees, which cover a space of ground of three or four miles in extent. Corn is cultivated in great quantities.
Sunday, 19th March.—This place is particularly blessed in possessing the remains of a great Marāboot, who is buried in a really handsome Mosque, ornamented with minarets and neat cupolas, and white-washed all over. The name of the Saint is Sidi Abd el Salām. His descendants are much respected, and are called Waled el Sheikhوالدالشيخ, “Sons of the Elder;” they think themselves authorised to be the most impudent begging set of people in the whole Regency of Tripoli. I was on the point of kicking out of my tent one of them who would not understand the monosyllablenoin answer to a request which he made me for some powder in the name and on account of his illustrious ancestor; but luckily Lizari came in at the moment and prevented me; and he afterwards told me I might as well have thought of kicking a descendant of the Prophet himself.
The whole of the surrounding country is most luxuriant in corn, dates, and olives, and is quite level. The Castle in which we were is of the true Arab character, built of mud and gravel, and swarming with vermin. The rooms are round the large courtyard, and their roofs, being flat, are the platforms for one or two four-pounders. Two markets are held here weekly; one on a Friday, in front of the Castle, the other on a Tuesday, near the Marāboot’s tomb. The country is governed by a Mamluke of the Bashaw, who has the title of Kaid. If I may judge from the number of drunken menwho were at the market, Lackbi is pretty universally drank. I bought a very fine sheep for a dollar and a quarter. Every thing here, as in Tripoli, is in the hands of the Jews: they are artisans and merchants, having dealings from one farthing up to hundreds of dollars; they also distil brandy from the dates, and find a very ready sale for it. Some small vessels bring goods to Zleetun; but as there is no roadsted, they anchor in the offing when the wind is from shore. Hills of sand obstruct the view of the sea at about a mile from the houses, and goods are carried that distance by camels.
I here unfortunately lost my black rat, which I had rendered quite tame; having appeared sick and drooping, I let it out of its cage, and wrapped it up in my barracan, the warmth of which so far recovered it, that, to my great regret, it made its escape: my other animals and serpents were alive and well.
Monday, 20th March.—As the corn was not ready for the slaves, we were obliged to stop over this day. I was much amused by the songs of the Negresses while pounding wheat; they sang all their country airs in chorus, and there was in their wildness much beauty. Their Boori, or songs used in sorcery, were particularly striking, and they kept time to the music with their wooden pestles and glass armlets, which sounded like cymbals. One of the songs was thus explained to me: the three girls who sung it were pounding in the same mortar, and regulated their beating according to the circumstances of which they sung. At first they pounded slowly, one telling the other two that they must keep up their spirits, as the warriors would soon be at home, and their lovers would bring more trophies than any one else; they then increased their time, and sang a song of triumph, the warriors being supposed to have returned; when suddenly they beat without measure, singing in a very shrill and rapid manner as for one who was dead. They then ceased beating altogether, and sung a trio, in which two endeavouredto comfort the girl who had lost her lover, she appearing inconsolable. At length they agreed to have recourse to sorcery, to ascertain if he died nobly. A goat was supposed to be killed, each of them examining its entrails, and singing several incantations, until a happy sign was discovered, when they resumed their pestles, winding up with a very beautiful chorus. The master of the girls forbade their singing any more, even though I earnestly requested that they might be suffered to continue; he said it was unholy, and that they were as great Kaffirs now, as before they acknowledged our Lord Mohammed to be the Prophet of God.
Tuesday, 21st March.—At eight we left the Castle, and passed over a sandy flat, the sea being hidden from us by the sand hills. At noon we crossed a romantic water-course, having a small limpid stream running through it. We saw here the remains of a magnificent aqueduct, which once ran to Lebida. At a short distance from one another were many small edifices resembling the mouths of wells, which were once used as communications with the aqueduct; these little buildings are seen all the way to Lebida, and show what course the aqueduct takes. At two we separated from the Kafflé, and went to the ruins of Lebida, which stand near the sea, and are surrounded by sand hills formed against them. The country inland of these hills, being highly and most luxuriantly cultivated, presents a pleasing aspect. As I was still very unwell, and little able to walk up the sand hills, I visited but three or four of the buildings, of which the lighthouse appeared the most extraordinary. Other ruins, which have once been fortresses, are formed of immense masses of stone.
The remains of the foundation of the ancient city wall are on a gigantic scale, and several pillars yet remain of the same description as those taken away in the Weymouth store-ship. My time being limited, and this place having before been visited and described bypersons of more science and ability than myself, I did not attempt to search for any inscriptions. My short visit, however, afforded me much gratification, and I returned to the track of my companions, whom I came up with at seven, having travelled north- north-west thirty miles.
Wednesday, March 22nd.—I found myself much better. Fine morning. At seven we pursued our course over mountains covered with verdure, and at nine came to a Roman well standing at the foot of an old castle, which appeared to have an arched communication with it, to be used in time of war. This well was in a narrow deep ravine, which the castle commanded. We found the old Turk and his slaves waiting for us at the well; they had gone past us in the dark. The old man was in great wrath; some thieves having come in the night and robbed him of five hundred weight or a camel load of dates: suspecting his own hungry Arabs, he had ordered them to lie at a distance from the sacks. They told him they would pray to God that he might suffer for his suspicion; and were therefore not sorry to see him so soon punished for it. Some Bedouins among the rocks in the pass were the robbers; one of his Negresses saw them in the act, but feared to wake her master, because he once beat her for disturbing him while asleep. When the old man related to me his misfortune, I gave him no consolation, but said I admired the ingenuity of the thieves; and all our Arabs tauntingly told him that he had now paid his footing.
We passed many fine corn-fields, and several enclosures with vines and figs, apparently very flourishing. Many large flocks were feeding on the plains. At three we stopped, one of Hadje Mohammed’s camels having fallen from weakness. Lizari’s Maherry followed his example, on which he sent the Arabs back to kill the animal, and they brought the meat to the Kafflé, portioning itout to all. Many hints were given me that I ought to kill my lame animal, but I would not understand them, as I thought he might still be serviceable to me. Several Arab wanderers came to partake of our feast; and we were obliged, when it grew dark, to give warning that any stranger seen walking near the Kafflé would be fired at. One of the Sheikhs, who had flocks near us, sent us some oranges, which we devoured, rind and all, in a moment. Our road had been so very circuitous that I could not be accurate as to the bearings, but as near as I could judge we had gone west-north-west eighteen miles.
I was so ill on our march this morning as to be under the necessity of stopping with the camel I rode, and lying on the ground, an Arab remaining with me. I was seized with such violent trembling, that the man was obliged for some time to sit on and hold me down to prevent my injuring myself. I suffered much agony, and the most intolerable thirst; to assuage which the kind Arab went about two miles back on his road to bring me water. He was so long absent, that I began to despair of his return; my fever each moment increased, and my thirst, in consequence, became so excessive, that observing my camel, which was at a little distance from me, making water, I resolved to attempt reaching him, and endeavouring to avail myself of a resource, which, under any other circumstances, would have filled me with disgust. Weak and exhausted as I was, and with no alternative but to drink, or, as I thought, to expire, I was about to catch and swallow the nauseous draught, when, at that moment, I perceived my trusty Arab ascending a hill, and advancing towards me. Those only who have experienced the agonies of suspense, or the torments of parching thirst, can conceive my sensations when he joined me, bringing the wished-for beverage; which, after all, was only dirty water in a goat-skin, but which I thought delicious, and drank with delight andgratitude. After about three hours my fit went gradually off, and my man holding me carefully on the camel, brought me at nightfall to the Kafflé, which had waited for me. We were encamped at Wad el Meseedواد المسيد, a river of no magnitude, running through steep sandy cliffs. We had made about twenty miles west-north-west.
Friday, 24th March.—I found myself very weak, but much better. Belford continued quite deaf, but we were in high spirits at the idea that our journey would soon be at an end, and that we should once again behold our dear friends. We proceeded at seven, our road being chiefly along the sea-coast. At eleven passed Wad el Ramle, or “the sandy river,” which is a small stream, running through sand hills: on its borders are luxuriant fields of corn. At three the man whom I had sent forward with a letter to the Consul brought me news that he proposed coming out to meet us. At four we entered Tejouraتاجوره. I was on a camel anxiously looking out for him, when himself, his two sons, Dr. Dickson, and Messrs. Carstensen, came galloping towards us. I soon slipped down on my legs, but was obliged to stop them, for they would otherwise have passed on without recognizing either Belford or myself, so much was our appearance altered. We pitched our tent in a space near the great Mosque, and passed the evening most agreeably. The Consul’s sons remained with me, but the rest of the party were obliged to go on to Tripoli, promising to meet me on the morrow, and to accompany me into the town. We had a fine Arab supper cooked by Lizari’s Negress, and were all Kaffirs enough to drink wine, and even to eat some pork, when Lizari was out of the way.
Saturday, March 25th, 1820.—Exactly one year from the day we left Tripoli, we re-entered the town, accompanied by the Consul and Mr. Carstensen. All our friends received us most kindly, and I was fortunately enabled on that evening to send a letter to LordBathurst, informing his Lordship of our safe return. I lodged our goods in the Portuguese consular house, with which Col. Warrington had kindly accommodated us, though not without having repeatedly pressed us to make his own house our home.
Notwithstanding my happiness at once more joining my Christian friends, I really felt no small regret at taking leave of our poor fellow travellers, many of whom I knew were destined to proceed to Tunis and Turkey. Their good humoured gaiety and songs had lightened to me many hours of pain and fatigue, and their gratitude for any little benefits I had it in my power to confer had quite warmed my heart towards them. Even when so exhausted as to be almost unable to walk, these poor creatures showed few instances of sulkiness or despondency; the first stanza of a song having been sung by one, enlivened the whole Kafflé, who immediately joined in chorus. Their patience under fatigue, and endurance of thirst, was very extraordinary. Khalīfa’s girls were allowed to drink only once in twenty-four hours, yet they were always cheerful.
I was frequently amused by observing the pains taken by these innocent savages to adorn themselves; their love of finery never ceasing, even when no one was near to admire them. Though overcome by privation of every kind, and by the fatigue of a long day’s journey, they employed themselves in converting into neck ornaments, snail shells, berries, or any other whimsical objects they could meet with. Those who possessed rings, bead bands for the head, or silver ear-rings, never failed to put them on when they stopped for the night, washing and oiling their skins whenever they had an opportunity; they also constantly used Kohol to blacken their eyelids, and to make different marks on the face.
One of the women of the Fellāta had a little male child, which was carried by turns by the whole Kafflé. Her milk had failed her, and this poor infant had nothing to nourish him but a mixture of coldwater and flour, unless I sometimes gave him some cusscussou. He, as well as his mother, was a shade lighter than a mulatto, which is generally the colour of their tribe.
Several of the girls carried with them an instrument called Zantoo. It is a long gourd hollowed out, having a hole at each end, and is played by striking one end against the calf of the leg, and occasionally stopping the other by a quick blow of the open hand. It has a very pleasing effect when well played, and the glass armlets, which are sometimes worn to the number of eight or ten on each arm, add to it a pretty tinkling sound. Whenever a party had a little outwalked the Kafflé, and sat down to rest, the Zantoos were set in motion, and were accompanied by their plaintive national airs. The wild music and picturesque appearance of these resting-parties was very pleasing, and I seldom passed one of them without having a lively chorus addressed to me.
There is a small bush found on the Desert, called by the slaves Wussawussa, with leaves resembling those of box in form, but tender, and having a very salt taste; these the slaves collected whenever they could, and boiled with their evening meal; and the flavour is not unpleasant.
In some of the wadeys were many thorny bushes bearing small black berries, called Dummaghظماخor “brains,” which have a very sweet, but at the same time astringent taste, and of which these poor girls always brought me large supplies, in return for my assisting those who were fatigued or thirsty. In fact, Belford and myself, being the only persons who did not beat or ill treat them, became great favourites; and my talents in particular were so highly appreciated, that not a male or female slave tore or wore out their sandal leathers, but they were immediately brought to me to be repaired, as I had always some leather in my pocket for that purpose: I thus became cobbler to the whole Kafflé.
None of the owners ever moved without their whips, which were in constant use; that of Hadje Mohammed more so than the rest: in fact, he was so perpetually flogging his poor slaves, that I was frequently obliged to disarm him. Drinking too much water, bringing too little wood, or falling asleep before the cooking was finished, were considered nearly capital crimes, and it was in vain for these poor creatures to plead the excuse of being tired; nothing could at all avert the application of the whip. No slave dares to be ill or unable to walk; but when the poor sufferer dies, the master suspects there must have been something “wrong inside,” and regrets not having liberally applied the usual remedy of burning the belly with a red hot iron; thus reconciling to themselves their cruel treatment of these unfortunate creatures.
I settled with my camel-men the day after my arrival in Tripoli, and having great reason to fear that Belford’s health was too much injured to proceed immediately, I agreed to remain there a short time, that he might be benefited by the advice of my friend, Dr. Dickson, who had kindly taken him under his care: he had been for six months afflicted with dysentery, was quite deaf, and so reduced as to be nearly a skeleton.
I think it right to account for what otherwise might be attributed to neglect, my having, in the latter part of our journey, omitted to notice the variations of the Thermometer from the 28th of February to the present time. Not using my tent, I found much difficulty, in so large a Kafflé, in preventing stray camels or the slaves from treading on the Thermometer; and it was so frequently in danger of being broken, that I found no correct rate could be kept, and therefore gave up the attempt.
Having, from the time of leaving Tripoli until my return from Fezzan, been constantly on the Desert, I shall endeavour to give a description of the country so called. In all our maps, Sahāra is the appellation used to distinguish that immense tract, known also by the name of the Great Desert.
Oasis is the term used for fertile spots or islands, said to be situated on the Sahāra; and Fezzan is supposed to be one of these Oasis: whereas, it is now evident, that it also is a Desert, with the exception of palms and small gardens, cultivated with great labour and difficulty, in the immediate vicinity of towns. No herbage ever grows spontaneously, except in wadeys or amongst rocks; and these in such small patches, that I never yet saw a spot covered with verdure of the size of a table, unless in the mountains near Tripoli. The Arabs have a name for every description of waste or desert, viz. the following:
Sahār is the name commonly used to particularise that description of Desert which is of sand alone, forming a plane surface, without either stones, rocks, water, or any sustenance capable of supporting animal or vegetable life, with a smooth horizon and without beaten paths.
Ghrood are those species of sand hills which I mentioned having once or twice passed in Fezzan: they are of an indefinite height,some being so steep as to be entirely impassable: others, and indeed all of this particular name, are traversed with difficulty. In some instances, palms grow on these hills; which are generally situated on the borders of stony plains, where the wind has collected and formed them.
Sereer is the appellation of gravelly plains, from which the sand has been swept by the force of the winds; and it is on this kind of Desert alone that sand hills are found. The gravel is generally of a small size: in some instances, rounded as pebbles on a sea beach; in others, sharp and pointed, as if recently broken; and a third kind is not unfrequently seen, covering spaces of many miles in extent, of stones which have a shining exterior, as if highly polished.
Warr is a rough plain, covered with large detached stones lying in confusion, and very difficult to pass over. The tops of mountains, particularly the Soudah, are distinguished by this name: it is, in fact, applied to such tracts of country as are only travelled with the greatest fatigue and difficulty, on account of the many obstacles thrown in the way by stones, small hillocks, &c.
Hatïa implies a spot which possesses, in a slight degree, the power of fertility, and produces a few small stinted shrubs, scattered at intervals, on which camels may make a scanty meal, or travellers a fire.
Wishek: sand hills or plains, which afford only wild, unproductive, or uncultivated date bushes, are called by this name. All Wishek bear the appearance of having been formerly what are called
Ghrāba, which is a term always used to distinguish parts which produce cultivated or fruit-bearing palms, but having no town near them; the owners of the dates only coming in the season to collect them. Zezeera is a term also used in common with Ghrāba, but I believe only by Fezzanners.
Soobker is the designation of salt-plains, which are marshy in winter, and in summer become broken and rough by the influence of the sun; or of that particular species found in Fezzan, where the salt and earth or sand are so closely combined, as to form a substance resembling stone, and equally hard to cut or break. One of these plains, between Trāghan and Māfen, is about three or four miles in the broadest part, and above twenty-five in length.
Wadey is a term of which I have frequently made use, yet I have given but a slight explanation of. It is a valley in which shrubs grow, or through which the rains form a temporary stream. Near Tripoli the Wadeys are sometimes the courses of impetuous torrents; but in Fezzan, where rain is almost unknown, they are smooth dells, very rarely producing a single plant. A small rift in the mountains, capable of containing only eight or ten camels abreast, is as much a Wadey as a large valley containing a town or towns, and the date trees belonging to such settlements.
Gibel, or Mountain, is a term I need not explain; but merely as showing that it is by no means a matter of course that a Desert must be flat, or nearly so, as even in the kingdom of Fezzan, mountains are very numerous.
Sahāra, therefore, is only applicable to sandy districts, and the Arabs only use the word Berrبار, or country, as a general term. In no part of the Desert, which I have seen, or of which I could obtain accounts, does it appear that water is found on the surface: hence it seems extraordinary, that wild animals should exist; yet antelopes, buffaloes, and some other animals, are, in different places, very numerous. Rats are frequently found to burrow in plains twenty or thirty miles distant from shrubs, and their food is unknown; no birds being found there, and the small lizards and snakes, as well as the few insects, being too active to be caught by them. In some parts, the only living creature seen for many days is a small insectsomewhat resembling a spider, called Naga t’Allahنعقاتالله, or the “She camel of God.” Beetles are also seen where Kafflés rest, or in the vicinity of shrubs; and their curious tracks in the sand are so marked, that I have sometimes traced the same insect for a mile or two as I rode along.
Nothing can be more awful than the stillness which prevails, more particularly when the surface is sandy. I have sometimes walked at night from the Kafflé, so as to be beyond the noise made by the camels or horses, and have experienced a sensation I am unable to describe, as I felt the wind blow past me, and heard the sound which my figure caused it to make, by arresting its progress. Near towns, or in places where animals can exist, the slow melancholy cry of the hyæna or jackal is frequently heard during the night, when these animals prowl round the Kafflé.
The appearance of water on the sandy and gravelly deserts is very frequent, and is generally so well defined, that it would be difficult to distinguish it from a river, were it possible that both could be seen at the same time. It is called Shrabشرابby the Arabs, who often amused themselves by calling to us that water was in sight, until we became accustomed to the appearance. Of this curious phenomenon so much has been said by various writers, that any attempt at description on my part would be unnecessary. The looming of objects when the sun is at its greatest strength, is very striking; as from the vapour which rises, they are, at a slight distance, much obscured. I have frequently, in riding along, been delighted at observing in the distance, a tree which appeared sufficiently large to shade me from the sun, and to allow of my reposing under it, until the camels came up; and have often quickened my pace in consequence, until, on a near approach, it has proved to be nothing more than a bush, which did not throw a shade sufficient even to shelter one of my hands. Sand hills deceive still more,always appearing very distant when the sun is on them; and it has often happened, that I have been startled by seeing a man or camel rise close to me, on the top of one of the apparently distant hills. The excessive dryness of the Desert is in some places very extraordinary, particularly to the southward of the Soudah mountains, where, in going to as well as coming from Fezzan, I observed that our clothes, and the tails of our horses, emitted electric sparks.
Water is not to be found by digging in all parts of the Desert; but is more particularly difficult to find in the Sereer, or gravel, which generally lies over sand stone. In two instances I have seen remains of pits which had been dug to one hundred feet without coming to water. The wells which are on the Desert are generally found in Wadeys or in the sandy country; and in all those I have seen, the water was salt and putrid, but the putrescence diminished after a quantity had been drawn. Some wells have only a sufficiency for the supply of five or six horses at once, and are a long time before they again fill. These wells which were so scantily supplied, I observed, were always in a soft clayey rock; but those which kept themselves tolerably full, were in a yellow clay. The depths vary from 6 or 8 feet to 70 or 80.
In almost every part of the stony desert, small piles of stones are frequently discovered, which are erected by travellers as marks to direct them across the country, or in the event of their missing their route, to assist them again to find it. These little heaps are called Aālumعلم, or “teachers;” and some become so remarkable, as to acquire other names, and to be favourite resting-places for Kafflés.
About the beginning of April, a dangerous fever broke out and was making great ravages in Tripoli, many of the inhabitants dyingdaily in the town and gardens. On my arrival, I made an attempt to obtain an interview with the Bashaw, but his highness was not at first sufficiently disengaged to allow of my paying my respects to him. At the end of a fortnight, however, I was admitted to an audience, and was accompanied by the British consul; who jointly with myself, thanked him for the attention which had been shown to the Mission, by the people of the interior, in consequence of his patronage.
The Bashaw was much amused by my having acquired the language and accent of Fezzan, and conversed with me for some time, asking me a variety of questions respecting what had occurred to me on my journey. He promised, that on the event of my returning to Africa, I should always be secure of his friendship: and on my taking leave of him, desired I would offer his compliments to my Sovereign.
It would be useless and uninteresting were I to relate the trifling incidents which occurred to me during the remainder of my stay at Tripoli. I shall therefore merely mention, that on the 14th of May I procured a passage to Leghorn for Belford and myself, taking with me my horse, which was a gift from the Bashaw, and a Maherry, or courier camel, which I intended to present to his Majesty George IV.
Dr. Dickson was unwilling to allow of Belford’s undertaking the voyage, fearing that his weakness would not enable him to resist any severe weather; but as Belford thought himself equal to the attempt, and as we were naturally impatient to return to England, I resolved no longer to delay my departure. I cannot omit the opportunity here offered me of expressing my sense of the kindness invariably shown me by Col. Warrington, the British Consul; from whom, as well as from his family, I received the most unremitting attention. I can only sincerely lament my totalinability to do justice to his friendship, evinced towards me not only in his official capacity, but individually, and on all occasions where he had the power of serving me. To some other most kind friends, who assisted me in the hour of need, I have also to offer my sincere tribute of thanks.
Myself and suffering companion left Tripoli on the 19th of May; and, after a passage of ten days, arrived at Leghorn. Belford was again so ill, that I found it necessary to call in the assistance of a medical gentleman, who visited him frequently at the Lazaretto. Our quarantine was twenty-five days, in a good airy situation; on leaving which we removed to the town, prior to setting out overland for England. We hastened to change our dresses, and to shave our beards, though not before we had been unwillingly exhibited to many curious, and, in some cases, troublesome visitors, who came to view us in our Moorish costume.
During the time of our quarantine the minister of Mohammed Ali, the Bashaw of Egypt, honoured me with a visit; and after asking me many questions, and ascertaining my knowledge of Arabic, made known to me that his master was about to send, on a progress of discovery, a large armed force, southward and westward from Egypt, and that he was particularly anxious to engage some European to accompany them, in order to survey the countries which they proposed exploring. He hinted, that on the event of my offering my services, I should, no doubt, be very flatteringly received, and that a most liberal allowance would be made for my outfit, as well as for my services; and the month of November was the period fixed for the departure of the expedition: in short, he held out so many advantages, that I only refused on the score of my being in the service of my own government, who might, perhaps, again require me to return to Africa. From the plan thus laid down to me, I saw clearly, that on the event of my accompanyingthe Bashaw of Egypt’s army, I could with ease ascertain the situation in which the Niger ended, as I should have to pass into a country from whence I well knew how to proceed, and to which, should I ever again return to Africa, I would immediately make my way.
On the 29th of June we left Leghorn; and passing overland, arrived in London on the 29th of July, 1820. In travelling through France I was so severely attacked by ophthalmia, as to be nearly deprived of sight; but on my arrival in England, I soon recovered. Belford continued still deaf and much emaciated, and, as I feared, with little prospect of ever regaining health or strength. I must observe, in justice to this my faithful, though humble companion, that during the service on which we were engaged, both prior to, and after the death of Mr. Ritchie, his conduct was such as to ensure my perfect esteem and confidence. He did not possess the advantages of birth or education; but his quiet, unobtrusive manners, and excellent disposition, made ample amends for these deficiencies. In the most trying moments, when all distinction between man and man is levelled, he never lost sight of the respect he considered due to me; but in sickness faithfully nursed me, and in health implicitly obeyed all my directions.
On my arrival in London, I waited on Earl Bathurst, to acquaint his lordship with the result of the mission; and delivered up the whole of the public papers belonging to the late Mr. Ritchie.