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The master often repeats verses from the Koran, in a loud voice, which the boys learn by saying them after him; and when they begin to read a little, he sings aloud, and all the scholars follow him from their books, as fast as they can. Practice at length renders them perfect; and in three or four years, their education is considered complete. Thus it is that many who can read the Koranwith great rapidity, cannot peruse a line of any other book. Arithmetic is altogether out of the question.—For children who learn by the month, the general pay is about two Saa, or two quarts of corn, and by the year one dollar.
When the boy is considered to have finished his studies, the parents, if they can afford it, present the master with some clothes, or a few dollars; if poor, they give him something to eat, and the usual salutation of Alla iebÄrek, or God prosper you. On breaking up for the day, the master and all the scholars recite a prayer. The school hours are by no means regular, being only when the Fighi has nothing else to do. Mornings early, or late in the evenings, are the general times for study. The punishments are, beating with a stick on the hands or feet, and our good old English custom of whipping, which is not unfrequently practised. Their pens are reeds, their rubber sand.
While learning their tasks (and perhaps each boy has a different one), they all read aloud, so that the harmony of even a dozen boys may be easily imagined.
In the time of the native Sultans, it was the custom, on a fixed day, annually, for the boys who had completed their education, to assemble on horseback, in as fine clothes as their friends could procure for them, on the sands to the westward of the town. On an eminence, stood the Fighi, bearing in his hand a little flag rolled on a staff: the boys were stationed at some distance, and on his unfurling the flag, and planting it in the ground, all started at full speed. He who first arrived and seized it, was presented by the Sultan with a fine suit of clothes and some money, and rode round the town at the head of the others. These races have ceased since the arrival of Mukni, and parents complain that their sons have now no inducement to study.
All the houses are infested by multitudes of small ants, which destroyedall the animals we preserved, and even penetrated into our boxes; their bite was very painful, and they were fond of coming into our blankets.
One singularity I must remark of Fezzan, which is that fleas are unknown there, and those of the inhabitants who have not been on the sea coast cannot imagine what they are like. Bugs are very numerous, and it is extraordinary that they are called by the same name as with us. There is a species of them which is found in the sands, where kafflés are in the habit of stopping; they bite very sharply, and fix in numbers round the coronet of a horse: the animals thus tormented often become so outrageous as to break their tethers.
The revenues of the Sultan of Fezzan arise from slaves, merchandise, and dates. For every slave, great or small, he receives, on their entering his kingdom, two Spanish dollars. In some years the number of slaves amounts to 4000. For a camel’s load of oil or butter, seven dollars; a load of beads, copper, or hardware, four dollars; and of clothing, three dollars. All Arabs who buy dates pay a dollar duty on each load (equal at times to the price of the article) before they are allowed to remove it. Above 3000 loads are sold to them annually. Date trees, except those of the Kadi and Mamlukes, are taxed at the rate of one dollar for every 200: by this duty, in the neighbourhood of Morzouk, or more properly, in the few immediately neighbouring villages, the Sultan receives yearly 10,000 dollars. Of all sheep or goats he is entitled to a fifth. On the sale of every slave, he has, in addition to the head money, a dollar and a half, which, at the rate of 4000, gives another 6000 dollars. The trees, which are his private property, produce about 6000 camels’ loads of dates, each load 400 pounds weight, and which may be worth, at a low estimate, 18,000 dollars. Every garden pays a tenth of the corn produced; presents of slaves are frequently made,and fines levied; each town pays a certain sum, which is small, but as the towns are numerous, may be averaged to produce 4000 dollars. Add to this, his annual excursions for slaves, sometimes bringing 1000 or 1500, of which one-fourth are his, as well as the same proportion of camels. He alone can sell horses; which he buys for five or six dollars, when half starved, from the Arabs, who come to trade and cannot maintain them; and makes a great profit by obtaining slaves in exchange for them. All his people are fed by the public, and he has no money to pay but to the Bashaw, which, until the recent quarrel, was 15,000 dollars per annum. I have enumerated his general income, but there are various other ways in which he extorts money. If a man dies childless, the Sultan inherits great part of his property; and if he thinks it necessary to kill a man, he becomes his entire heir! All his people are on an allowance from him, out of what he takes from others, at about the rate of two Kail, or above two gallons, of corn, and four of dates, per month. His negresses are also allowanced in corn, dates, oil, &c. according to their size and age.
In company with Mohammed the Mamluke, I rode to Tessouwa, an inconsiderable town about twenty miles west of Morzouk. It has the remains of an old Arab castle, built of mud. The palms are not numerous, and the inhabitants amount to about 300. It is divided from Morzouk by a plain of sand.
On the 8th of November, 1819, Mr. Ritchie being again attacked by illness, I much wished him to allow of my selling some of our powder to procure him a few comforts; but to this he would not consent. On the 9th I also fell ill, and was confined to my bed; and Belford, though himself an invalid, attended on us both. Our man servant was of no use to us whatever; but, on the contrary, presuming on our poverty, did exactly as he pleased. Our little girl, however, assisted in nursing us. After lying in a torpid statefor three or four days, without taking any nourishment or even speaking to us, Mr. Ritchie became worse, and at last delirious, as in his former illnesses. In the interval, my disorder having abated, I was enabled to rally a little, and to attend my poor suffering companion.
After he had somewhat recovered his intellect, he appeared very anxious to know whether any letters had arrived, announcing to us a further allowance of money from Government; but when I, unfortunately, was obliged to reply in the negative, he avoided all comment on the subject. He would not drink any tea, of which we still had some remaining; but preferred vinegar and water, our only acid, which he drank in great quantities. Being entirely free from pain, he flattered himself that he should, in a day or two, recover, particularly as he was not at all emaciated, but rather stouter than he had been for some months previous to his illness. One day (the 17th) he appeared so far recovered as to be able to get up and be dressed. We placed him on the mat in the centre of the room, when he seemed much refreshed, and thanked us for the trouble we had taken; he then expressed a wish to have a little coffee, which, for a time, I was unwilling to give him, fearing it might injure him: he was, however, so earnest in his request, that I was obliged at last to comply with it. As he complained of the closeness of his room, and appeared determined on lying that night on the mat, we made his bed on it; and I laid myself down by him. In the afternoon he examined his tongue in the glass, and appeared a good deal alarmed at its colour; but presently said, “I was frightened at the blackness of my tongue, but now recollect I have been drinking coffee; had I observed that appearance without knowing the cause, I should have said I had a bilious fever, and should bid you good bye.†In the evening one or two of the Mamlukes came in; he spoke to them for a little while, and soonafter fell asleep. I remained awake the greater part of the night, during which he slept soundly; but in the morning I found he had crept from his bed, and was lying uncovered, and in a state of delirium, on the cold sand. We immediately put him to bed in his own room, and he appeared to rally again.
On the 20th we got a fowl, of which we made a little soup for him; and while he was taking it, a man came in, and told me a courier had arrived from Tripoli with letters. I went out, but returned, to my sad disappointment, empty-handed, the man having no despatches for us. The broth which Mr. Ritchie drank was the first nourishment he had taken for ten days, though we had used all our endeavours to prevail on him to eat. He said he felt much revived by it, and turned round to go to sleep. I placed my bed at the entrance of his room, and remained watching him. He seemed to breathe with difficulty; but as I had often observed this during his former maladies, I was not so much alarmed as I should otherwise have been. At about nine o’clock, Belford, on looking at him, exclaimed in a loud voice, “He is dying!†I begged him to be more cautious, lest he should be overheard, and immediately examined Mr. Ritchie, who appeared to me to be still in a sound sleep; I therefore lay down on my bed, and continued listening. At ten I rose again, and found him lying in an easy posture, and breathing more freely: five minutes, however, had scarcely elapsed before his respiration appeared entirely to cease; and on examination I found that he had actually expired, without a pang or groan, in the same position in which he had fallen asleep.
Belford and myself, in our weak state, looked at each other, expecting that in a few days it might probably be our lot to follow our lamented companion, whose sad remains we watched duringthe remainder of the night. And now, for the first time in all our distresses, my hopes did indeed fail me. At daylight I went out and informed our kind friends, Yussuf and Hadje Mahmoud, of our misfortunes; at which they were much affected, and offered us all the assistance in their power. Belford, as well as he was able, hastened to form a rough coffin out of our chests; and a sad and painful task it was. The washers of the dead came to us to perform their melancholy office, and Mr. Ritchie’s body was washed, perfumed, and rubbed with camphor; and I procured some white linen, with which the grave-clothes were made. During our preparations for the burial, the women, who are always hired to cry at the death of persons whose friends are able to pay them, proposed to perform that disgusting office in our house; but I would not allow it, and very unceremoniously shut the door against them. While I was out of sight, either our servant or some of our officious visitors stole several of our effects, and I clearly saw that we were now considered as lawful plunder. The coffin being completed, I hired men to carry it with ropes, but one of them having suddenly gone away, poor Belford was obliged to take his place; when, attended by our small party of Mamlukes, we proceeded at a quick pace to the grave, at about ten o’clock. The clay below the sand was white, which was considered as a good omen; and Belford and myself threw the first earth into the grave. During the night we had, unknown to the people, read our protestant burial service over the body; and now publicly recited the first chapter of the Koran, which the most serious Christian would consider as a beautiful and applicable prayer on such an occasion.
Having thus performed the last sad duties to our unfortunate friend, we returned home to pass a day of misery. It was necessary to distribute food to the poor who surrounded our door in greatnumbers, and we had no money even to purchase a morsel for ourselves; Yussuf’s kindness again having supplied our wants, and I succeeded in getting the house a little more quiet. Within an hour after the funeral had taken place, a courier arrived from Tripoli bringing a truly welcome letter, announcing that a further allowance of £1000 had been made by our Government towards the expense of the mission. Had this letter reached us a little sooner, many of our troubles and distresses would have been prevented.
I waited on the Sultan to announce to him Mr. Ritchie’s death, at which the hypocrite affected to be much grieved, though he must have been well aware that had his inclination equalled his power to serve us, he might have enabled us to procure the necessaries of life, and thus perhaps have averted, or at least tranquillized the last moments of Mr. Ritchie. I informed him of the additional allowance which I expected, begging him to lend me some money. He talked much of his regard for me, but dwelt a great deal on his poverty; and ended by saying, he might perhaps be able to furnish me with alittle, which he expressed with particular emphasis, reminding me that I already owed him eight dollars. I was not then, I own, in the humour to remonstrate with such a wretch, and plainly told him I would never more ask for his assistance or friendship; and that according to his law, ingratitude, such as he had so cruelly shown to Mr. Ritchie and myself, was the highest and blackest crime a man could be guilty of, and would one day be visited on him.
On my return home, I found poor Belford greatly overcome by the efforts he had made, whilst I was equally so from the exertions of mind I had undergone. The consequence was, that a strong fever confined us both to our beds, at the mercy of any one who chose to pillage us. Before I took to mine, however, I contrived to write despatches to England, which I sent off by a courier.
During the whole day a constant succession of visitors came to pay their compliments of condolence, and I seriously thought that, with such an accession of evils, we should in a few days more be hurried to our graves. Yussuf and Hadje Mahmoud attended on us, as did our little girl, who was our principal nurse, and was very humane and careful. We lay ten days in this state, and during that time Yussuf, by my desire, sold about 100 lbs. of our powder, so that we now again obtained a little money; but we were too ill to enjoy any benefit which our riches might procure us. Mr. Ritchie’s horse, which had never recovered its flesh since coming from Tripoli, and which was very old, I sold, through the medium of Yussuf, for seventy dollars, to the Sultan. By the sale of many trifles, which the Sultan no longer made an objection to our disposing of, I cleared, after paying my debts, about 150 dollars, including the money for the horse and powder, and now determined, should I recover, on penetrating still farther to the southward of Morzouk, though incapable of making such progress as I wished, from not possessing sufficient funds for the purpose.
I found myself under the absolute necessity of soon returning to England to receive instructions for my further proceedings (supposing me still to be employed on the mission), for although money for the additional grant of £1000 could have been procured from Tripoli, much time must have elapsed before I could have obtained it; and even then, I must have gone in person for it. I had no one whom in my absence I could have left in charge of my goods at Morzouk, Belford being too sick and helpless either to keep guard over them, or to remain alone in that place. Added to this, £1000 was a sum by no means adequate to carry me through Africa; as it would be requisite to purchase merchandise totally different from that which had already been provided, and without which I could not have made my way. Belford, from his weakstate, could not accompany me far, and to proceed alone would have been actual madness, until the necessary arrangements for my future operations, and regulations as to pecuniary matters had been fully understood and arranged. Under all these circumstances, therefore, and to my great regret, I could only resolve on a short progress into the Interior.
As soon as we recovered sufficient strength to get up stairs, I opened Mr. Ritchie’s sitting-room, where we found only a few scattered papers, an unfinished journal, and some letters. These I collected, and in Belford’s presence burnt all which were private; but every other document bearing Mr. Ritchie’s handwriting I carefully preserved. We were both much astonished at his having left so few memoranda, as we felt confident, that though for many months he had, from repeated illness, been unable to write, that at least, prior to his arrival in Morzouk, he must have made many notes, as well as composed a regular journal.
I knew that he had always trusted much to his singularly retentive memory, and was also aware that he expressed great impatience for the arrival of more cool weather, when he might, with less inconvenience, commit his ideas to paper; and these reasons might probably account for his having left so few mementos of the scientific mind with which he certainly was gifted. It is also to be regretted that Mr. Ritchie, during his illnesses, would never avail himself of my repeated offers to take down in writing any observations which he might have considered worthy of note; and from this unfortunate circumstance much, very much valuable information has been lost.
I caused all the chests of merchandise to be removed into our large room, and with Belford’s assistance opened them, in order to ascertain their contents. They had been packed before my arrival in Tripoli, and Mr. Ritchie had determined that they should notbe opened until we reached the Negro country. I found in them, amongst other things, about 600 lbs. of lead, one camel load of corks for preserving insects on, and two loads of brown paper for preparing plants. As these amounted in all to about five loads, which were not worth carrying back to Tripoli, I sent them, with two large chests of Arsenic bottles into Yussuf’s house, taking a proper receipt for them, so that any future traveller or myself might be enabled to receive them. I found that the other goods, including five cwt. of books and two chests of instruments, would load about eight camels: we therefore commenced taking a list of them, and putting them carefully away, when we were again attacked with fever, and confined to our beds, remaining with all our merchandise at the mercy of Arabs and natives.
I had at this time occasion to turn off our man, and the woman also who cooked for us, as I had strong reason to doubt their honesty. Yussuf lent us, in our distress, a fine intelligent boy called Barca, who, with our Negro girl, greatly assisted us.
The weather having become very cold, we had a fire made in a hole in the ground, round which we sat in the evenings with some of the friends who came to see us. On these occasions they told us many long stories; but Belford’s deafness prevented his being amused with them as I was. Religion was generally the subject of these tales, which, when related by the old Hadje, were usually prefaced thus: “When a man has been three times to the holy house, as I have been, he begins to know something, thank God!†He repeated many marvellous stories of the country of Sindi, or Persia, in which is the bed of the sun, and where grows a tree bearing a fruit resembling a coffin. This growing daily larger until ripe, at last bursts, and out of it a man drops to the ground, who cries “Wauk, wauk; in the name of the merciful God,†and instantly expires, sinking suddenly into the earth. He told me that inParadise the prophets are permitted by God to ride on animals of extraordinary beauty, called BorÄk, whose form is something like that of an antelope, and their swiftness such, that in the twinkling of an eye they can spring out of sight. All the prophets on the bare backs of these animals, but Allah, out of love for Sidina (our Lord) Mohammed, gave him a golden saddle, on which he parades before the faithful. Many more stories equally extraordinary are told and believed all over the country; and in Morzouk are a few copies of some of the Arabian Nights’ Entertainments, and the voyages of Sindèbad the Sailor, which are as fully accredited as the Koran itself.
Yussuf generally amused me by singing, and ridiculing the Arabs. The Tuarick were always subjects for his wit, and he related many curious anecdotes of them. One which, though greatly exaggerated, is much in character of these people, was of a man sent as a courier from Ghraat to GhadÄms, eighteen days’ journey, for which he received sufficient provision to support him the whole time, but which devouring at a meal, and girding his loins with a belt, he mounted his camel, and performed the journey without other sustenance! These people, however, really can abstain from food for three or four days without any apparent inconvenience.
On the 8th of December news arrived that the slave hunters had made but little booty, the people having been warned of their coming, and that they were on their return home. We also heard that the men of Waday had cut the throats of eighty-two white traders in Wara, the capital, and had determined to suffer no Moors to trade again in their country, but to kill them immediately on their entering it.
I now began a little to recover my health, and Belford, though still quite deaf, was without fever.
I remarked that our negress invariably used the letter P for F; she would say, for instance, Yussup instead of Yussuf, Patoo for Fatoo; and I found that this was general amongst the natives of Bornou and Baghermee. These people, as well as the natives of Fezzan, always pronouncesassh, and vice versâ. Another peculiarity which I have often observed is, that all the Fezzanners and slaves, in cutting onions or other vegetables, cut downwards on the forefinger of the left hand, and however sharp the knife may be, they seldom injure themselves.
Mukni now received more enlivening news from Tripoli, and he began again to show himself. Orders came that all the traders of Augela, a town between Tripoli and Egypt, should be put in prison, and their slaves and goods taken on the Bashaw’s account, as he was at war with their countrymen, and had sent an army against them. Fourteen were accordingly confined under the Castle, and orders were sent to the southward to take up those who came from the Interior, and to the eastward to secure those coming from Egypt. There was one of these people who was much disliked by Mukni, and who, on hearing of the proceedings against his countrymen, escaped with nineteen negresses, his property. The Sultan sent after him, and having cut off his access to a watering-place, he was secured, almost dying from thirst. His life had been promised to him before he surrendered; but the next morning he was deliberately shot through the breast by those who had him in custody, and his head and property brought back to Morzouk. Had this man been aware of the treachery intended, he was of so powerful a form, and of such bravery, that his capture would have been very difficult. Previously to his being shot, he exclaimed, “Tell Mohammed el Mukni that he is a villain: Paradise is shut against him, and he will die by treachery. There is no God but God, and Mohammed is his Prophet.â€
Our friend Yussuf brought to me a very old man, who had been to Ashantee, and who gave some very extraordinary and rather improbable accounts of the people there. He said that there were white traders at the coast whom he had himself seen. This I would not at first believe, until he related some distinct accounts of the habits of the people he met with, peculiar to Europeans.
In Morzouk there are sixteen Mosques, which are covered in, but some of them are very small; each has an Imaum, but the Kadi is their head, of which dignity he seems not a little proud. This man had never been beyond the boundaries of Fezzan, and could form no idea of any thing superior to mud houses and palms; he always fancied us great romancers when we told him of our country, and described it as being in the middle of the sea.
It may be necessary before I take leave of Morzouk, and indeed of Tripoli, to explain that our adoption of the Moorish costume was by no means a sufficient safeguard in either of those places, or in traversing the interior of Africa; for though it might, to a casual observer, blind suspicion, yet when we had occasion to remain for a time at any place, or to perform journeys in company with strangers, we found that it was absolutely requisite to conform to all the duties of the Mohammedan religion, as well as to assume their dress. To this precaution I attribute our having met with so little hindrance in our proceedings; for had we openly professed ourselves Christians, we might, in Fezzan, have experienced many serious interruptions; whilst farther in the interior, even our lives would have been in continual jeopardy. The circumstance of our having come from a Christian country, which we always acknowledged, frequently rendered us liable to suspicion; but by attending constantly at the established prayers, and occasionally acknowledging the divine mission of Mohammed, or, more properly, by repeating“There is no God but God, Mohammed is his Prophet,†we were enabled to overcome all doubts respecting our faith.
In attending the Mosque we found that it was not necessary for us to use any prayers addressed to, or in praise of, Mohammed; the three which are recited by day being in an under voice, and the morning and evening ones only being repeated aloud. These latter we easily avoided, and during the others we made use of what orisons we pleased, only taking particular care that our prostrations and outward observances should be at the proper times. The only prayer we ever recited audibly was the “Fatha,†or first chapter of the Koran, the sentiments of which are really beautiful.
I am confident that it would never be possible for any man to pass through Africa, unless in every respect he qualified himself to appear as a Mohammedan; and, should I myself return to that country, I would not be accompanied by any one who would refuse to observe these precautions. It is possible, that as far as Fezzan, a traveller might, by great good chance, escape detection; but the farther south he proceeded, the more bigoted would he find the people, and a cruel death would, in such case, inevitably terminate his journey.
Though the Mohammedans profess and appear to be strict in obeying the ordinances of the Koran, they most grossly violate one of its principal laws relating to Unbelievers. It is expressly said, that Moslems may take or destroy all those who do not believe in Islamism; but that they should first endeavour to instruct, and on their refusing to acknowledge the Koran, then make them slaves. The same law distinctly teaches that those who are already Moslems cannot be taken captive or sold. Nothing, however, is farther from the idea of a Mohammedan, than to instruct the Negroes; for, instead of endeavouring to convert them to his faith, he appropriatesand sells them for his own advantage. This is sufficiently unjust, but the conduct of Mukni and his men is infinitely more so; for they seize on the inhabitants of whole towns where the only religion is that of the Koran, and where there are Mosques; and this without scruple or remorse. I have frequently pointed out the clause in the Koran, forbidding such injustice; but never could obtain a satisfactory reason for this violation of their religious tenets.
Of the various ceremonies incident to the faith of the Moslems, I shall make no mention, as they have already been so frequently touched on by other travellers.
Departure for Tegerry, through Zuela and Gatrone — Arrival at Zaizow — Pass on to Traghan — Visit Gardens and Springs — Arrival at Zaitoon and Touela — Pass Villages of Maghwa and Taleb — Arrival at Hamera — Illness — Leave Hamera — Bearings of its neighbouring Villages — Large Salt Plain — Arrival at Zuela — Description of Inhabitants — Author’s Illness — Ancient Buildings — Hospitality of the Shreefs — Leave the Town — Arrival at Terboo — Its Wretchedness — Curious Story of MarÄboot — Arrival at Mejdool — Journey across the Desert, and Arrival at Gatrone — Feast of Milood — Costume, Character, and general Description of the Tibboo — Description of Gatrone — Accounts of Tibesty and Waday, from a Tibboo Trader — Tibboo Language — Leave Gatrone in order to meet the Grazzie — El Bakkhi — Tibboo Manner of making Tar — Arrival at Tegerry.
Onthe 9th of December we began our preparations, and by the 13th, had succeeded in nailing and lashing up all our effects, which we lodged in the Koudi or sitting-room of old Hadje Mahmoud, who was to take charge of them. I bought a very fine brown Maherry seven feet six inches in height, and able to carry 5 cwt., of a little one-eyed boy, of about 12 years of age, who drove a bargain harder than any man I ever saw. My health was very bad, and I suffered severe pain from diseased liver and enlarged spleen; but having considered that it would be necessary for me, before I returned to Tripoli, to ascertain the situation of other parts of the kingdom of Fezzan beyond Morzouk, I determined, notwithstanding my extreme weakness, to visit the southern and eastern provinces, proceedingin the first place to Zuelaزويلهin the east, and from thence passing the desert to Gatroneقترونand Tegerryتجرّيin the south. I persuaded Belford, who always entered into my views, to try what change of air would do for him as well as for myself, and he agreed to accompany me, although we more resembled two men going to the grave, than fit persons to travel over strange countries. Yussuf ben el Hadge Khaleel kindly lent us his little boy, Barca, who was to act as our servant, and to lead our camel.
On the 14th we set out, having received a Teskera from the Sultan, on all the villages through which we might pass, so as that ourselves and animals might be fed. I also had an order for the Kaid of Zaizowزيزوand the brother of the Kaid of Traghanطرعغنto accompany us: but it was not until 1.50. P.M. that we were able to get away. We were weak and helpless; and the Arabs, according to custom, gave us so much trouble, by their officiousness, that the poor camel and our horses were loaded and unloaded a dozen times at least. At 2.50. we passed a small nest of huts on our left, named Mangellyمنجلّيhaving another village to the south of it, about one mile distant, called GhrowÄtغروعت. At 4. after crossing a sandy plain, we came to a little village in the gardens of Hadge HajeelØاج Øجيلwhere we found our friend, Mohammed, measuring and burying the Sultan’s dates. The heap he was employed on was about twelve feet in height, and thirty in length, and had all been collected in the immediate neighbourhood. Mohammed gladly left his work; and having ordered some Lackbi to be brought, and a fowl or two to be seized upon, carried us to the hut he was living in.
We proceeded this day E. and by S. about seven miles.—Mohammed made us welcome in the evening, and brought a fifer and two bagpipers to stun us, while the women of the village, to do us honour, beat tin-pots, singing, and dancing before us.
The village of Hadge Hajeel is half a mile south of the gardens, and has about 250 inhabitants; this is the place which Horneman mentions under the name of Sidi Besheer, whose tomb stands near it.
Dec. 15th. Therm. 9°. 30′.—At 8.30. A.M. we started with Mohammed, who was to take us to Zaizow, and at a mile S.E. of the gardens, arrived at the tomb of Sidi Besheer, where we recited the Fatha, or first chapter of the Koran, and where I gave a dollar to purchase food for the poor. It was a small mud hut, white-washed in front, covered at the top with palm branches, and standing on a sandy plain. Custom, and the sanctity of the MarÄboot, induce all Kafflés coming from the Interior to stop and refresh the slaves and animals at this spot, previously to their entering Morzouk; and here, too, all travellers assembling for the Interior, meet. Hard by are the ruins of an old Arab Castle, called Gusser HamÄdi.
On leaving this plain, we got into a most excellent beaten road, running S. and by E. to Zaizow, and passed four of the Sultan’s men on horseback, escorting three poor Augela Arabs, bound on camels, with thirty-eight slaves, once their property. These people had been six years trading in Soudan, and were now on their way to prison. We left fourteen of their countrymen in confinement when we set out.
At 10.35. arrived at the small village of Zaizow, where we found the Kaid Saad, who was to be our attendant, sitting on the sand, at his own door, making women’s red shoes. On seeing the Sultan’s order, he sprung up with alacrity, and carrying his tools into the house, returned to us in a short time, in a gay dress, with a sabre hanging over his shoulder. He was a fine honest looking black, very fat and well oiled, and had the appearance of a great eater, which qualification he soon gave proof of. While waiting here, we saw a black woman with lips of a pale pink colour, andone or two marks on each hand, of the same hue. I wished to ask her some questions, but she looked so sulky that I desisted.
Zaizow is prettily situated in a little dell, thickly planted with palms, and having a ruined castle on a rising ground in the centre. The houses are nearly all in ruins, and many had palms growing in them: the population, according to the Kaid, amounted to about 70 souls. It is E. and by S. seven miles from Hadge Hajeel. Mohammed left us in charge of our new friend, the Kaid, who soon found a donkey to carry him on with us to Zuela, at which place he was to find his horse.
At 11.30. A.M. set out, and at 2.30. passed a village on the left, named Areg el Libban, and an old castle, called Gusser Bighia. 2.45. Passed the ruined village and castle of MokhÄtenمخعتن. 3.12. arrived at a place called Deesaديسwhere we found the Kaid of Traghan, who promised to come to us on the morrow, and to send his brother as soon as he returned home. The village of ErshÄdi faces Deesa to the southward of the road. Leaving Deesa, we passed for an hour over a flat, so completely encrusted with salt, that it had the appearance of a hoar frost in England; indeed, the whole of the road from Hadge Hajeel bore, more or less, the same resemblance.
At 5. we entered the gardens and date groves of Traghanطرعغنwhich appeared in a higher state of cultivation than any we had yet seen, and at 5.45. arrived at the town, which stands clear of the gardens, on a flat desert plain. Yussuf having offered us his house, we put up there, although not without a great deal of clamour from an over-civil Negress and her husband, who, to do us more honour, shifted us and our baggage about without mercy. The MarÄboot, the principal man here, sent to apologise for not being prepared to provide us with bread and meat. At 2. this day the thermometer was 25°.
Dec. 16th. Therm. 9°. Fine clear morning. I paid a visit to the MarÄboot, who was sitting on an earthen mound, half naked, and in a very dignified manner, enjoying the heat of the sun. His dependants were seated round on the sand, listening with mute attention to the sagacity of his remarks. He was very fat, greasy, and consequential, and told me that all his family had been MarÄboots, and equally eminent for learning with himself. On leaving him, full of admiration at his modesty, I went out to the gardens to see the springs, of which I had heard so much. As I was a stranger, and these springs were the pride of Fezzan, several people left their work to follow me, and to witness my surprise and admiration at the first sight of them. There are four ponds, each 30 or 40 feet in diameter, covered with a green crust, and containing innumerable frogs. Insignificant, however, as they were, I dismounted and drank heartily from them, although the water, even here, was not perfectly fresh. The gardens which are supplied from them are altogether as white with salt as those watered from the wells. A number of strange birds, resembling thrushes, but with longer tails, fluttered about us; but having no gun with me, I was unable to kill one. The date trees here are very thickly planted, and form a most agreeable shade.
I got a meridian altitude of the sun, 81°. 1′. 30″. which gives the latitude 25°. 55′. N.
On our return to the town, I observed that its walls and houses were of a light green colour, while the castle in ruins appeared of a reddish clay; but I soon discovered that the earth and clay all round the town were actually green, and I collected specimens ofthem. This place appears to have been once of some consequence, but is now nearly in ruins, and has not, I should imagine, above five or six hundred inhabitants. At 2 P.M. thermometer 19°. The MarÄboot sent us a couple of fowls and some bread; and as the Kaid of the town followed the present to know if we were properly served, he came in for his share. I observed here, with much satisfaction, that Belford seemed quite recovered from his giddiness, though he remained very thin and weak.
Dec. 17th. Thermometer 8° 30′. Raw misty morning, with the wind in the north-east. We visited the Gusba, or castle, the ruins of which show it to have once been a place of some importance as an Arab fortress. The MarÄboot informed me that it had been built prior to Morzouk, in which case it must be nearly six hundred years old. A story is told, that of the asses employed in bringing the materials for building it, 500 died before it was finished, of mere fatigue. About sixty years ago it was inhabited by a brother of the native Sultan’s, who governed the eastern provinces, and was styled “Sultan el Shirghi,†or Sultan of the East. From the castle we were enabled to observe that the town stood on a plain, bounded to the southward by palms, and from east-south-east to west by the Desert.
The following towns bore thus: El Glaib, south-west three or four miles; Ben Gleif, south-south-west four miles; MÄfen, south-half-west eight miles; ZebbÄr, south four miles; and Zaitoon, south-east by east seven miles.
There are four mosques in Traghan, having small mud minarets. The houses are many of them large, but are now in ruins, owing to the great alteration in the circumstances of their owners. That of our friend Yussuf had been one of the best. We had, however, a proof of its present altered state, in finding the roof breaking in upon us, which obliged us to change our quarters. Three beamsgave way at once, and no doubt the whole would have fallen in before night; though the old man and woman stood fearlessly under it, and asserted that it could not happen, because no roof had ever fallen in their master’s house. The people here have an idea, that corn grows more luxuriantly in salt earth than in any other, and from the appearance of the crops, I am inclined to be of the same opinion. At eleven I sent the Maherry on, and waited, at the MarÄboot’s request, to partake of a mess which he was preparing for us. I observed that Kaid Saad’s horse seemed in very poor case, and was greedily eating date leaves; but this was soon accounted for, on my learning that the allowance of food which he received for the poor beast was all sent home to the favourite wife. The people of this place have (if possible) a more whining tone in their salutations, than those of Morzouk. I sent the MarÄboot a knife and pair of scissars; and at 12.45. left the town, attended by Yussuf’s slaves, who saw us well on our road, and then took their leave of us. At 3.15. came up with the Maherry, and at 3.25. entered a miserable assemblage of about two dozen mud and palm huts, called Zaitoon,زيتون, having proceeded east-south-east seven miles over a gravelly plain. We met the Kaid of Traghan on the road, with some other horsemen who were bringing eight slaves and some sheep, the property of Augela merchants.
As the huts promised but little comfort, we pitched our tent in the midst of them, to the astonishment of the natives; who, on hearing from Saad (who never forgot to order a dinner) that we were very great men, and friends of the Sultan, dispersed themselves about the village to catch all the unlucky fowls that came in their way, and, in consequence, we had six served up in an hour after we arrived. The Kaid felt much hurt at my paying for them, as he was afraid it would be the means of spoiling the people, who would always, in future, expect remuneration.
Dec. 18th. Thermometer 5° at the tent door. Fine clear morning, with the wind to the eastward. We had much difficulty in catching our horses, which had broken their tethers, and run out on the desert; even the Kaid’s Rosinanté was capering about: my horse, however, stopped at the sound of my voice, and by 9.15. we were enabled to proceed. At about three-quarters of a mile south-east by east of Zaitoon, is another village of the same description, called Touela,طويله. We passed through it, and, I believe, shook hands with every male inhabitant in the place. Near this village is a large heap of ruins, said to have once been a castle, the walls of which are, though roughly built, very curious. Between a rising ground a little to the eastward, and the principal well, there are twelve others, each about four yards apart, and having arched communications sufficiently high for a man to walk erect in. Leaving Touela, we ascended to a bleak stony plain, running on to the desert on the left, and having very irregular sand hills, about the distance of two miles to the right. We directed our course north 65° east. A strong north-east wind was blowing, and I observed, as in coming from Tripoli, that in the coldest days the sun has the greatest power of burning the skin. Belford and myself were completely disfigured about the nose, which became very red, and smarted painfully. At eleven the sand hills closed in, and we came again to a few palms and a small village called Maghwa,مخوه. We remained to warm ourselves in the sun by a well side, and were joined by Besheer el Dthucker, the Kaid of Traghan’s brother, who had followed us full speed from Morzouk. At 11.45. the camel having passed, we went on; and at 1.30. came again to sand hills. At 2.10. we arrived with the horses at Taleb,طالب, (Fox), a village with about eighteen palm trees, and four or five mud huts: the Sheikh brought us out some dates and very salt water. The mountains between us and Hamera,Øميره, called El GÄra,القار, bore north60° east. At three, the camel having passed, we went on. At 4.10. passed El GÄra on the right. From hence Hamera bore north 55° east. We travelled all this day, with the exception of the villages, over a gravelly desert. On the plain we visited a well which is haunted by Iblis, or the devil; for the Arabs cannot conceive that the echo which proceeds from it can arise from any other cause. At five we arrived at Hamera. I found myself greatly exhausted in consequence of the pain in my liver, and the debility occasioned by the mercury I had taken. The Kaid promised me much comfort here, as we were to have the Sultan’s own house; but we waited so long in the midst of the village, before we could find any one to get it ready, that I was obliged to produce my Teskera, which soon set the people in motion, and converted a set of impudent lazy Arabs into the most submissive people in the world, and every one of them seemed equally anxious to do us honour. We soon found the house, which was a miserable ruin, having only two roofed rooms. The one destined for our reception was occupied by five or six half naked Arab women, and a small flock of sheep; but they all made way for us, and we took possession of it.
Dec. 19th.—I was so ill that I remained in bed, and was stared at by the whole village.
December 20th. Thermometer 3° 30′. This place is now nearly unwalled by time, and is completely wretched; it stands on the desert, but is surrounded by a few straggling palms, and gardens. The ground near the walls is covered with bushes of Agool (or thorn of the desert), which, at a little distance, has a pleasing green effect, and was then quite a novelty to us. The Sheikh brought his two wives to me for advice: the first, who had a head-ache and sore eyes, I was able to do something for; but as for the second, her case was hopeless; for, according to her husband’sand her own account, she had been three years with child. Such mistakes are frequent here, as many women take this method of deceiving their husbands, to avoid being divorced for sterility. The lady left the house very much irritated at my giving her no remedy for her complaint. At 11.20. we started, and I observed the following bearings from Hamera. El Bedere, east by north two miles. (It is from this place that the people of the neighbouring districts supply themselves with salt, as it is here free from earth, and of a beautiful whiteness.) OmelerÄneb, west-south-west two miles. This is the town of Sheikh Barood, of the Boowadie Arabs; and from this place Teweewa is south-west two or three miles. As usual, the desert is to the left, and high sand hills to the right. The first part of our road was over a barren plain, and we then, for an hour and a half, travelled over a plain of salt, broken up in large slabs by the heat of the sun, and having the appearance of a brown disturbed sea. We found the footing very difficult for ourselves and animals. At 1.40. arrived at the village of Omesogueen. Stopped here for a short time, and sent the camels on. I consider this place seven miles and a half east 8° north of Hamera. Low table-topped hills bound the view to the northward. The plains which occurred at intervals between the sand hills, were covered by brittle stones, resembling pieces of yellowish earthen ware, and ringing when struck by iron. At 2.15. we set off, and proceeded east 17° north; met three more Augela prisoners, and eight camels laden with merchandize, which they had brought from Egypt, and which, with themselves, were seized on their entering Zuela. At four we passed a flat hill on the left, running east and west for many miles, called MengÄr; some talhh trees are scattered on the plain at its foot, which afford a lasting joke against the people of Zuela. A man coming from thence, in great dread of meeting the Waled Suliman, a bandof Arabs who were pillaging the country, was so blinded by his fears, that he mistook these trees, which he had seen from his infancy, for horsemen, and in great trepidation galloped to Zuela with the news: the Zuela men, in consequence, putting their women and children in safety, went out in a body towards evening to reconnoitre, when, after the usual caperings of a party of Arabs, they came up with their enemy, which proved to be the trees in question! After passing over another rough salt plain, we arrived at 5.10. at Zuela, having on each side heaps of ruins within the walls. On an eminence near the town, the principal people (who are Shreefs) had been assembled for four or five hours in order to welcome us. We were shown to a very good house, and numberless visitors came, bringing provisions of all descriptions. For each mess Kaid Saad, who was highly delighted, paid some compliment to the bringer, though not till he had first dipped his finger in and tasted. I was here so ill, that I was obliged to apply a large blister to my side, and to go to bed, leaving my party listening to the wonders which the Kaid was relating about Belford and myself, whom he represented as two very extraordinary personages.
Dec. 21st. Thermometer, at nine A.M. 7°. Being too unwell to leave my bed, Shreefs in numbers came to see us. About twelve different bowls of meat, soup, and bread, were sent in to us, which the Kaid and Besheer (for neither Belford nor myself had much appetite) successively despatched.
December 22nd. Thermometer 9°, wind east-north-east, and at two P.M. thermometer 21°. I found myself better until noon, when a severe attack of hemma seized me, and my spleen became so very hard and painful, that I was unable to lie down. At night, the attack having ceased, I had a very large party to visit me, and to examine my curiosities, amongst which the compass, and aphosphoric match-box, were the most admired, and of course in great danger of being broken. A venerable Shreef, named Mohammed Ali, came late, and it was therefore necessary to go through my exhibition a second time, at which he seemed highly gratified. He paid me great compliments on my sagacity in having turned Moslem, and invited me to an assembly at the great Mosque on the Friday following.
The inhabitants of Zuela are nearly all white, and Shreefs, and they are particularly careful about intermarriages with other Arabs, priding themselves much on their immediate descent from Mohammed. They are certainly the most respectable, hospitable, and quiet people in Fezzan, and their whole appearance (for they are handsome and very neatly dressed) bespeaks something superior to the other whites. I observed this evening that these people, as well as all other Arabs and Negroes, invariably express admiration by laughter, which is generally accompanied by holding the open hand with the back towards the forehead. The more they are surprised or amused, the more boisterous and loud they become.
December 23rd. Thermometer 9°, wind easterly. This morning my curiosity was much excited respecting a very extraordinary fowl, of which the Shreef, Mohammed el DthÄbi, last night told me some wonderful stories. He described it as being almost white, and above a foot and a half in height; very stately and dignified in its gait. He had brought a cock and a hen from Egypt, and what was most remarkable, though the cock crowed very loud, and unlike other cocks, the hen crowed also, and nearly as well as her mate. The eggs were very large, and an omelette, which he brought me, was composed of five of them, though, from its size, I really thought twenty would have been requisite. A very large crowd assembled to witness what would be my surprise at the sight of this creature, and while the Sidi went out to fetch it, each told mesome curious story respecting it. At last it arrived, and Mohammed having begged that the way might be cleared, walked up to me with great importance, and opening his abba, set before me a goose, which waddled off with great dignity, hissing as it went; while I, to the great disappointment of the company, fell back and laughed immoderately.
We rode out of the town to see the extraordinary ruins, so much spoken of by the commentators on Horneman’s travels, but which Horneman himself never saw or heard of, unless as two or three miserable mud edifices of the early Arabs. The one most esteemed by the Shreefs is an old Mosque, standing at about half a mile to the westward of the town. It is a large oblong building of evidently an early date, though certainly of Arab origin. The walls are built with a neatness now unpractised and unknown, of unbaked rough bricks, and strong binding clay. At the north-west corner is the Mouaden (or minaret), much dilapidated, but still of a height sufficient to command an extensive view of the surrounding country. The length of the Meseed inside is 135 feet, and its breadth is 90, immense dimensions for an Arab building, which has no cross walls to support the roof. It is quite open overhead, and nothing remains to give an idea of what it once was covered with. There are two niches for the Imaum; one is in a partition built partly across, near one end, for that purpose; the other is in the wall, and in the form of a pulpit, and I suppose has been used for the purpose of addressing the people when assembled on the plain below, a custom prevailing at Morzouk after Rhamadan, at Milood, and other feast days.
From this Mosque we went to a spot half a mile east of the town, to examine five buildings, the appearance of which was much more interesting. These are in a line with one another, and have a passage between them of three or four feet in breadth. They aresquare; their diameters are about twenty feet, and their height about thirty. They have dome tops, and two windows; one low near the ground, the other high and narrow, and situated about ten feet above it. The rough skeleton of the building is of sun-dried bricks and clay, which have hardened to nearly the consistency of stone; over this, to about half the height of the building, are laid large flat stones of a reddish colour, and unhewn, as found in the neighbouring mountains. Few of these, however, still adhere.
The interior of the buildings are perfectly void, and appear never to have had any floors or partitions. From the smallness of the lower windows, it strikes me that these places were the tombs of the Shreefs, who first settled here about five or six hundred years ago; at all events, they now answer this purpose, as each contains a Shreef, whose grave is ornamented with the usual complement of broken pots, shreds of cloth, and ostrich eggs. The people here look with much reverence on these edifices, and tell many wonderful stories of the dead now enshrined in them.
On these tombs are the inscriptions about which so many ridiculous tales are told; but two only at present retain them, and these are on the point of falling.
The Zuela people, like all other Moors, attribute strange buildings and writings to the Christians, so that some excuse may be offered for those who have circulated such pompous stories of Fezzan.
The inscriptions are on the upper part of the walls, and on the sides instead of the front, which makes it very difficult to see them, owing to the neighbouring buildings not allowing sufficient space to walk back in order to distinguish them more clearly. The least perfect has only one or two lines, resembling the tops of letters, on a white cement of about a foot square; the other has about twofeet of plaster, and some long letters are sunk in it, apparently Arabic, and much broken. The Shreefs said that these were the only ones they recollected, and that they were written by the Christians soon after the time of our Lord Noah. Having fancied I could distinguish Arabic characters, I made my friends sit on the sand, whilst with my finger I traced them one by one. They immediately saw the resemblance, but said, that having fancied them to be of Christian origin, they had taken it for granted, and never troubled their heads about decyphering them.
The letters I drew were these,