Economical Application of Yeast.

9.31 Geo. 2. c. 29. p. 883.

“If any person have cause to suspect that any miller[10]who grinds, dresses, or bolts any grain for toll or reward, or manufactures any flour for sale, or that any baker mixes up with his flour any mixture or ingredient, not the genuine produce of the grain, so that the purity of the meal in any wise be adulterated, and reports thesame on oath to a magistrate, then, in that case, such magistrate, or a peace-officer duly authorized by him, shall enter the premises of such suspected person, and search or examine whether such mixture or ingredient, not the genuine produce of the grain, is in the possession of such miller, mealman, or baker; and such meal and flour as shall be deemed to have been adulterated may be seized, together with the base mixtures; and if seized by a peace-officer, it is to be carried before a magistrate, but if seized by the magistrate, he may immediately dispose of it as he shall think fit. And the person on whose premises such mixture or ingredient shall be found, and adjudged to be intended to be used in adulterating the flour, shall forfeit a sum not exceeding ten pounds, and have his name, offence, and place of abodepublished in some newspaper that is printed or circulated near his place of abode, unless he shall make it appear, to the satisfaction of the magistrate, that the same was not lodged there with the intention of adulterating the flour, but for some other lawful purpose.”

10.31 Geo. 2. c. 29. p. 888.

“That if any person shall wilfully obstruct[11]or hinder any search being made for such mixtures as are designed to adulterate the meal or flour, or shall oppose their being carried away, such person shall forfeit a sum not exceeding five pounds, nor less than forty shillings.”

11.31 Geo. 2. c. 29. p. 889.

“And that the good design of these regulations may be more effectually accomplished, it shall be lawful for the several wardmote[12]inquests of the city of London,or any magistrate[13]or peace-officer authorized by a warrant from such magistrate, without the jurisdiction of the city of London, to enter into any bake-house or shop, at all seasonable times, to search for and weigh all the bread therein; and if any of the loaves are found wanting in the goodness of the stuff of which they should be made, or deficient in the due baking or working thereof, or shall be wanting in the weight, or shall not be truly marked, such persons may seize such bread; and, if a magistrate is not present, it shall be taken before one, who may dispose of it as he shall think fit.”

12.37 Geo. 3. c. 98. sec. 22.

13.31 Geo. 2. c. 29. p. 890.

“That if any person shall wilfully[14]obstruct or hinder any such search, or prevent the carrying the same away, he shall,on conviction before a magistrate, be fined a sum not exceeding five pounds, nor less than twenty shillings.”

14.31 Geo. 2. c. 29. p. 890.

“That it shall be lawful for any magistrate[15], or peace-officer, authorised by a warrant, and accompanied by one or more master bakers, to enter, at seasonable times, any shop or bake-house within the city of London, or within ten miles of the Royal Exchange, to search and examine whether any alum, or other ingredients, shall have been mixed up with, or put into, any meal, flour, dough, or bread, in the possession of any such baker, and also to search for alum, or any other ingredients, which may be intended to be used for the purpose of adulterating the bread; and if, on enquiry, they find any alum, or other unlawful ingredients, or that any flour,meal, dough, or bread, contains any preparation of alum, such shall be immediately seized, and carried before some magistrate within whose jurisdiction the baker lives, and who shall dispose of it as he shall think fit. And if the magistrate is satisfied that such pernicious ingredients were put into the bread with the consent or privity of the baker, or if he acknowledges it himself, or one or two credible witnesses certify, on oath, that they know he uses alum, such baker shall forfeit any sum of money not exceeding twenty pounds, or be committed to, and kept at hard labour in, the house of correction, or some other prison, for six calendar months, unless he can prove, to the satisfaction of the magistrate, that the alum, or other ingredients, were designed for some lawful purpose. And further, the magistrate is expressly required to causethe offender’s name, place of abode, and offence, to be published in some newspaper which shall be printed or published in or near the city of London, or the liberties thereof.”

15.38 Geo. 3. c. 55. sec. 14 and 15.

“That if any person or persons shall wilfully obstruct[16]or hinder such search or seizure, as above described, he or they shall, for every offence, forfeit and pay any sum not exceeding ten pounds, nor less than five, at the discretion of the magistrate before whom the offender or the offenders shall be convicted.”

16.38 Geo. 3. c. 55. sec. 16.

“That where any baker[17]shall make a complaint before a magistrate, and make it appear that any offence he was charged with, and paid the penalty of, was occasionedby the wilful neglect or default of his journeyman, or other servant, the magistrate shall issue his warrant for apprehending the party, and if, on examining into the matter, it appears that such was the case, such journeyman, or other servant, shall be directed immediately to pay to his master a reasonable recompence in money, and, on non-payment thereof, he shall be committed to the house of correction, or some other prison, and kept to hard labour, for any time not exceeding one calendar month, unless payment be sooner made.”

17.31 Geo. 2. c. 29. p. 891. and 38 Geo. 3. c. 55. sec. 17.

“And, for the better and more easy recovery of the several penalties[18]incurred by disobedience to the several acts, all offences may be heard and determined in asummary way, by the Lord Mayor, or any other magistrate or magistrates, within their several jurisdictions, who shall summon the offenders before them, and if they do not appear, or offer a reasonable excuse, they may cause them to be apprehended; and when the matter is enquired into, and the party convicted, if he does not pay the penalty within twenty-four hours, such magistrate shall issue a warrant of distress and sale on the goods of the offender; and, should the goods of the party be removed into another jurisdiction, the magistrate thereof is to back the warrant, and the distress, if not redeemed within five days, is to be appraised and sold, and all expences thereby incurred are to be deducted thereout. And if the offender is possessed of no goods or chattels that can be seized, then he shall be committed to the house ofcorrection, or some other prison, for one calendar month, unless payment be sooner made.”

18.31 Geo. 2. c. 29. p. 892. and 38 Geo. 3. c. 55. sec. 19.

“That if information[19], on oath, is offered to any magistrate, that any one within his jurisdiction is likely to offer or give material evidence in behalf of the prosecutor of any offender, and refuses voluntarily to come forward, such magistrate shall issue a summons to cause him to appear, and if he still refuses, to grant a warrant to compel his attendance, and then if he refuses to be examined, he may be committed to some public prison for fourteen days.”

19.31 Geo. 2. c. 29. p. 894.

That no certiorari[20], letters of advocation, or of suspension, shall be granted, to remove any conviction or other proceedingshad therein; but if any person is punished, and he thinks himself aggrieved by the judgment of a magistrate, he may appeal to the next quarter sessions, and, in such case, the execution of the judgment shall be suspended, upon his entering into a recognisance, with two sufficient sureties, in double the sum such person shall be adjudged to forfeit, to prosecute the appeal, and abide the determination of the justices at the said quarter sessions; and if he makes good his appeal, he shall be discharged the conviction, and reasonable costs awarded him, which shall be paid by the person who lodged the information.”

20.31 Geo. 2. c. 29. p. 895.

“That no person shall be convicted[21]of any offence under these acts, unless the prosecution shall be commenced againsthim within fourteen days after the offence is committed, except in cases of perjury[22]; and no person who shall be prosecuted to conviction for any offence done or committed against these acts, shall be liable to be prosecuted for the same offence under any other law.”

21.37 Geo. 3. c. 98. sec. 28.

22.38 Geo 3. c. 55. sec. 20.

“That all penalties, when recovered in pursuance of these regulations, shall be disposed of in the manner following: that is to say, one[23]moiety thereof to be paid to the informer, and the other moiety to the poor of the parish where such offence shall be committed; and, in case there is no informer, then the whole sum shall be given to the poor of the parish, or applied in such a way as the magistrate, in his discretion, shall think fit.”

23.31 Geo. 2. c. 29. p. 897.

Economical Application of Yeast.

It frequently happens, in the summer season, that the brewers, in order to render their beer less liable to spoil, use more hops than usual; the consequence of which is, that the yeast becomes very bitter, and gives a disagreeable flavour to the bread. To obviate this inconvenience, Mr. Stone has recommended the following method of raising a bushel of flour with only a tea-spoonful of yeast.

Suppose a bushel of flour be put it into the kneading trough, then take about three quarters of a pint of warm water, and one tea-spoonful of yeast. Stir it in till it is thoroughly mixed with the water; and make a hole in the middle of the flour, largeenough to contain two gallons of water. Pour in the yeast and add some of the flour until it is a thick liquid paste; strew some of the dry flour over it, and let it stand an hour. Then take a quart more of warm water, and pour it in: in about an hour it will be seen that the small quantity of yeast has raised the mixture so, that it will break through the dry flour placed over it; and when the warm water has been added, take a stick and stir in more flour until it is as thick as before; then shake again some dry flour over it, and leave it for two hours more, the mass will rise and break through the dry flour again; you may then add three quarts or a gallon of water, and stir in the flour, and make it into a soft paste, taking care to cover it with dry flour again, and in about three or four hours more the dough may be mixed up, andcovered up warm; and in four or five hours more it may be made up into loaves, and put in the oven; and in this manner may be produced as light a bread as though a pint of yeast had been used. It does not take above a quarter of an hour more than the usual way of baking, for there is no time lost but that of adding the water at three or four times. The author of this method assures us that he constantly bakes in this way. In the morning, about six or seven o’clock, he puts the flour in the trough, and mixes up the spoonful of yeast with the warm water; in an hour’s time he adds more flour, in two hours, again more, and about noon makes up the dough, and about six in the evening it is put into the oven: he has always good bread.

Economical Preparation of Yeast.

The following economical method of making yeast is recommended by Dr. Lettsom.

Thicken two quarts of water with four ounces of fine flour, boil it for half an hour, then sweeten it with three ounces of brown sugar; when almost cold, pour it with four spoonfuls of baker’s yeast into an earthen jug, deep enough for the fermentation to go on without running over; place it for a day near the fire, then pour off the thin liquor from the top, shake the remainder, and close it up for use, first straining it through a sieve. To preserve it sweet, set it in a cool cellar, or hang it some depthin a well. Keep always some of this to make the next quantity of yeast that is wanted. Mr. I. Kerby recommends the following method of obtaining yeast from potatoes.

Boil potatoes of the mealy sort, till they are thoroughly soft, skin and mash them very smooth, and put as much hot water on them as will make a mash of the consistency of common beer yeast, but not thicker. Add to every pound of potatoes, two ounces of treacle, and when just warm, stir in for every pound of potatoes, two large spoonfuls of yeast. Keep it warm till it has done fermenting, and in twenty-four hours it will be fit for use. A pound of potatoes will make near a quart of yeast, whichhas been found to answer the purpose so well, as not to be able to distinguish the bread made with it, from bread made with brewer’s yeast.

When yeast is plentiful, take a quantity and work it well with a whisk until it becomes thin; then procure a large wooden dish or platter, clean and dry, and with a soft brush lay a thin layer of yeast on the dish, and turn the top downwards to keep out the dust, but not the air, which is to dry it. When the first coat is dry, lay on another, and let that dry, and so continue till the quantity is sufficient; by this means it may soon be made two or three inchesthick, when it may be preserved in dry tin canisters or stopped bottles, for a long time, good. When used for baking, cut a piece off and dissolve it in warm water, when it will be fit for use.

FINIS.

C. GREEN, LEICESTER STREET,LEICESTER SQUARE.

C. GREEN, LEICESTER STREET,

LEICESTER SQUARE.

NOTICE.The Public are respectfully informed, that a new Edition,considerably enlarged (price 9s.), has lately been published,OFACCUM’STreatise on Adulterations of Food,AND CULINARY POISONS;Exhibiting the fraudulent Sophistications of Bread, Beer, Wine,Spirituous Liquors, Tea, Coffee, Cream, Confectionary,Vinegar, Mustard, Pepper, Cheese, Olive Oil,Pickles, and other Articles employed inDomestic Economy; and Methodof detecting them.(Copied from the British Review, No. XXIX. p. 171.)

NOTICE.

The Public are respectfully informed, that a new Edition,

considerably enlarged (price 9s.), has lately been published,

ACCUM’S

Treatise on Adulterations of Food,

AND CULINARY POISONS;

Exhibiting the fraudulent Sophistications of Bread, Beer, Wine,

Spirituous Liquors, Tea, Coffee, Cream, Confectionary,

Vinegar, Mustard, Pepper, Cheese, Olive Oil,

Pickles, and other Articles employed in

Domestic Economy; and Method

of detecting them.

(Copied from the British Review, No. XXIX. p. 171.)

Mr. Accum seems determined that even the outside of his book shall awaken our fears. The cover of our copy bears a death’s head emblazoned upon a pall, and, underneath, the motto “there is death in the pot.” The pall is supported by the point of a dart. Four other darts support the four corners of the device. Twelve serpents, with forked tongues and tails entwined, form a terrific wreath around; while the middle is occupied with a large cobweb, delineated with much attention to detail, in the centre of which a spider, full as large as a moderate sized hazel nut, and so frightful that more than one young lady of our acquaintance would think it necessary to scream at the sight of it, holds in its envenomed fangs an ill-fated fly, which is sinking under the loss of blood, and buzzing in the agonies of death.

We are by no means desirous to raise or maintain a popular clamour; but Mr. Accum certainly advances some weighty charges, and his work comes with an advantage in bearing a name not unknown to the scientific world. Of the adulterations specified, some are deleterious, and others merely fraudulent. Accordingly, we shall offer a few extracts, both from the original matter of Mr. Accum, and from his citations drawn from previous authors.

“Among the number of substances used in domestic economy which are now very generally found sophisticated, may be distinguished,—tea, coffee, bread, beer, wine, spirituous liquors, salad oil, pepper, vinegar, mustard, cream, and other articles of subsistence. Indeed it would be difficult to mention a single article of food which is not to be met with in an adulterated state. And there are some substances which are scarcely ever to be procured genuine.” (P. 3.)

But we pass on from the general statements at the beginning of the work to particulars.

Water, by standing in leaden reservoirs, acquires a highly deleterious property.

In some particular cases, the consequences have been most fatal.

“‘A gentleman was the father of a numerous offspring, having had one and twenty children, of whom eight died young, and thirteen survived their parents. During their infancy, and indeeduntil they had quitted the place of their usual residence, they were all remarkably unhealthy, being particularly subject to disorders of the stomach and bowels. The father, during many years, was paralytic; the mother, for a long time was subject to cholics and bilious obstructions.’” (P. 78, 79.)

These effects were traced to a leaden pump, in the cylinder of which there were found several perforations, while the cistern “was reduced to the thinness of common brown paper, and was full of holes like a sieve.” (P. 79.)

We now come to the adulteration of wine; to many of our readers, probably, a far more interesting concern than that of water.

“All persons moderately conversant with the subject are aware, that a portion of alum is added to young and meagre red wines, for the purpose of brightening the colour; that Brazil-wood, or the husks of elderberries and bilberries, are employed to impart a deep rich purple tint to red port of a pale, feint colour; that gypsom is used to render cloudy white wines transparent; that an additional astringency is imparted to immature red wines by means of oak-wood sawdust, and the husks of filberts, and that a mixture of spoiled foreign and home-made wines is converted into the wretched compound frequently sold in this town by the name ofgenuine old Port.... Anuttyflavour is produced by bitter almonds; fictitious Port wine is flavoured with a tincture drawn from the seeds of raisins, and the ingredients employed to form thebouquetof high-flavoured wines, are sweet brier, orris-root, clary, cherry-laurel-water, and elder flowers. The flavouring ingredients used by manufacturers, may all be purchased by those dealers in wine who are initiated in the mysteries of the trade. And even a manuscript receipt-book for preparing them, and the whole mystery of managing all sorts of wines, may be obtained on payment of a considerable fee.” (P. 95, 97.)

“The particular and separate department in this factitious wine-trade, calledcrusting, consists in lining the interior surface of empty wine bottles, in part, with a red crust of super-tartrate of potash, by suffering a saturated, hot solution of this salt, coloured with a decoction of Brazil-wood, to chrystallize within them.” (P. 101, 102.)

But the crusting is not confined to the bottle.

“A correspondent operation is performed on the wooden cask; the whole interior of which is stained artificially with a chrystalline crust of super-tartrate of potash, artfully affixed in a manner precisely similar to that before stated. Thus the wine-merchant, after bottling off a pipe of wine, is enabled to impose on the understanding of his customers, by taking to pieces the cask, and exhibiting the beautiful dark-coloured and fine chrystalline crust, as an indubitable proof of the age of the wine; a practice by no means uncommon to flatterthe vanity of those who pride themselves in their acute discrimination of wines.” (P. 103, 104)

This our readers will excuse, for it is pleasing to read of impositions which are practised on the sagacious. But, says Mr. Accum,

“Several well-authenticated facts have convinced me, that the adulteration of wine with substances deleterious to health is certainly practised oftener than is, perhaps, suspected.” (P. 104, 105.)

Presently follows the story of the passengers by the coach, who dined at Newark. Half a bottle of port made them all ill, one dangerously. Part of the other half caused the death of an inhabitant of the place, on whom an inquest was held, and a verdict returned, of—Died by poison.

A gentleman having been taken severely ill on two successive days, after drinking each day a pint of Madeira from the same bottle, his apothecary ordered that it should be examined.

“‘The bottle happened to slip out of the hand of the servant, disclosed a row of shot wedged forcibly into the angular bent-up circumference of it. On examining the beads of shot, they crumbled into dust, the outer crust (defended by a coat of black lead with which the shot is glazed) being alone unacted on, whilst the remainder of the metal was dissolved. The wine, therefore, had become contaminated withlead and arsenic, the shot being a compound of these metals, which no doubt had produced the mischief.’” (P. 113, 114.)

For detecting the presence of lead or any other deleterious metal in wine, Mr. Accum recommends thewine test.

We now come to that part of the subject, which, assome personshave thought,is merely the business of ale-drinkers, and their brethren, the porter-drinkers.

“The fraud of imparting to porter and ale an intoxicating quality by narcotic substances, appears to have flourished during the period of the late French war. For, if we examine the importation lists of drugs, it will be noticed that the quantities of cocculus indicus imported in a given time prior to that period, will bear no comparison with the quantity imported in the same space of time during the war, although an additional duty was laid upon this commodity. Such has been the amount brought into this country in five years, that it far exceeds the quantity imported during twelve years anterior to the above epoch. The price of this drug has risen within these ten years from two shillings to seven shillings the pound.... It was at the period to which we have alluded that the preparation of an extract of cocculus indicus first appeared, as a new saleable commodity, in the price-currents ofbrewers’ druggists. It was at the same time also that a Mr. Jackson, of notorious memory, fell upon the idea of brewing beer from various drugs, without any malt and hops. This chemist did not turn brewer himself, but he struck out the more profitable trade of teaching his mystery to the brewers for a handsome fee. From that time forward, written directions and receipt books, for using the chemical preparations to be substituted for malt and hops, were respectively sold. And many adepts soon afterwards appeared every where to instruct brewers in the nefarious practice first pointed out by Mr. Jackson. From that time, also, the fraternity of brewers’ chemists took its rise. They made it their chief business to send

travellers all over the country with lists and samples exhibiting the price and quality of the articles manufactured by them for the use of brewers only. Their trade spread far and wide, but it was amongst the country brewers chiefly that they found the most customers. And it is among them up to the present day, as I am assured by some of these operators, on whose veracity I can rely, that the greatest quantities of unlawful ingredients are sold.” (P. 157-160.)

Part of these evils the porter-drinkers bring upon themselves.

“One of the qualities of good porter, is, that it should bear afine frothy head, as it is technically termed: because professed judges of this beverage, would not pronounce the liquor excellent, although it possessed all other good qualities of porter, without this requisite.—To impart to porter this property of frothing when poured from one vessel into another, or to produce what is also termed acauliflower head, the mixture calledbeer-heading, composed of common green vitriol (sulphate of iron) alum and salt, is added. This addition to the beer is generally made by the publicans.” (P. 182, 183.) It is added in a note:—”’Alum gives likewise a smack of age to beer, and is penetrating to the palate.’—S. Child on Brewing, p. 18.” “The great London brewers, it appears, believe that the publicans alone adulterate the beer.” (P. 211.)

“Capsicum and grains of paradise, two highly acrid substances, are employed to give a pungent taste to weak insipid beer. Of late, a concentrated tincture of these articles, to be used for a similar purpose, and possessing a powerful effect, has appeared in the price-currents of brewers’ druggists. Ginger root, coriander seed, and orange peels, are employed as flavouring substances chiefly by the ale brewers.” (P. 184, 185.)

We find the following articles, in a list of illegal ingredients, seized at various breweries and brewers’ druggists.

“Multum, 84 lbs.; cocculus indicus, 12 lbs.; colouring, 4 galls; honey, about 180 lbs.; hartshorn shavings, 14 lbs.; Spanish juice, 46 lbs.; orange powder, 17 lbs.; ginger, 56 lbs.; grains of paradise, 44 lbs.; quassia, 10 lbs.; liquorice, 64 lbs.; carraway seeds, 40 lbs.; multum, 26 lbs.” “Capsicum, 88 lbs.; copperas, 310 lbs.; colouring and drugs, 84 lbs.; mixed drugs, 240 lbs.; coriander seed, 2 lbs.; beer colouring, 24 gallons.” (P. 186-189.) [The list which includes these articles is copied from the minutes of the committee of the House of Commons.]

Some of the substances above enumerated may be thought comparatively harmless. But others are absolutely poisonous.

“To increase the intoxicating quality of beer, the deleteriousvegetablesubstance, calledcocculus indicus, and the extract of this poisonous berry, technically calledblack extract, or by some,hard multum, are employed. Opium, tobacco, nux vomica, and extracts of poppies, have also been used.—This fraud constitutes by far the most censurable offence committed by unprincipled brewers. And it is a lamentable reflection to behold so great a number of brewers prosecuted, and convicted of this crime. Nor is it less deplorable to find the names of druggists, eminent in trade, implicated in the fraud, by selling the unlawful ingredients to brewers for fraudulent purposes.” (P. 205, 206.)

Then follows a list of thirty-four convictions of brewers, for receiving or using illegal ingredients.—We perfectly agree with the following observations.

“That a minute portion of an unwholesome ingredient, daily taken in beer, cannot fail to be productive of mischief, admits of no doubt: and there is reason to believe that a small quantity of a narcotic substance (and cocculus indicus is

a powerful narcotic), daily taken into the stomach, together with an intoxicating liquor, is highly more efficacious than it would be without the liquor. The effect may be gradual; and a strong constitution, especially if it be assisted with constant and hard labour, may counteract the destructive consequences perhaps for many years. But it never fails to show its baneful effects at last.” (P. 209, 210.)

We now come to the business of another small portion of the community, namely, thetea-drinkers. Perhaps the following descriptions will assist them in forming a diagnosis.

“All the samples of spurious green tea (nineteen in number) which I have examined, were coloured with carbonate of copper, (a poisonous substance), and not by means of verdigrise, or copperas.” (P. 240.) “Mr. Twining asserts, that ‘the leaves of spurious tea are boiled in a copper, with copperas and sheep’s dung.’” (P. 240. Note.) “Tea rendered poisonous by carbonate of copper, speedily imparts to liquid ammonia, a fine sapphire blue tinge. It is only necessary to shake up in a stopped vial, for a few minutes, a tea-spoonful of the suspected leaves, with about two table-spoonsful of liquid ammonia, diluted with half its bulk of water. The supernatant liquid will exhibit a fine blue colour, if the minutest quantity of copper be present. Green tea, coloured with carbonate of copper, when thrown into water impregnated with sulphuretted hydrogen gas, immediately acquires a black colour. Genuine green tea, suffers no change from the action of these tests.” (P. 241.)

The following extracts may perhaps prove interesting tobrandy-drinkers.

“‘It is a custom among retailing distillers, which I have not taken notice of in this directory, to put one third or one fourth part of proof molasses brandy, proportionably, to what rum they dispose of; which cannot be distinguished, but by an extraordinary palate, and does not at all lessen the body or proof of the goods; but makes them about two shillings a gallon cheaper; and must be well mixed and incorporated together in your retailing cask. But you should keep some of the best rum, not adulterated, to please your customers, whose judgment and palate must be humoured.—When you are to draw a sample of goods to show a person that has judgment in the proof, do not draw your goods into a phial to be tasted, or make experiment of the strength thereof that way, because the proof will not hold except the goods be exceedingly strong. But draw the pattern of goods either into a glass from the cock, to run very small, or rather draw off a small quantity into a little pewter pot, and pour it into your glass, extending your pot as high above the glass as you can without wasting it, which makes the goods carry a better head abundantly, than if the same goods were to be put and tried in a phial.—You must be so prudent as to make a distinction of the persons you have to deal with. What goods you sell to gentlemen for their own use, who require a great deal of attendance, and as much for time of payment, you must take a considerably greater price than of others; what goods you sell to persons where you believe there is a manifest, or at least some hazard of your money, you may safely sell for more than common profit; what goods you sell to the poor, especially medicinally, (as many of your goods are sanative), be as compassionate as the cases require.—All brandies, whether French, Spanish, or English, being proof goods, will admit of one pint ofliquor‘ (water) ‘to each gallon, to be made up and incorporated therewith in your cask, for retail, or selling smaller quantities. And all persons that insist upon having proof goods, which not one in twenty understand, you must supply out of what goods are not so reduced, though at a higher price.’” (P. 267-270.)

Some of the adulterations of spirituous liquors are exceedingly pernicious.

“Another method of fining spirituous liquors, consists in adding to it, first, a solution of sub-acetate of lead, and then a solution of alum. This practice is highly dangerous, because part of the sulphate of lead produced, remains dissolved in the liquor, which it thus renders poisonous.” (P. 284.) “The cordial called shrub frequently exhibits vestiges of copper.” (P. 285.)

Gloucester Cheese has been found contaminated with red lead. The article used in colouring cheese is anotto. In one instance, the anotto, being inferior, had been coloured with vermilion; and the vermilion adulterated by a druggist, (who little thought that it would ever enter into the composition of cheese,) with red lead. The account of the whole transaction as given by Mr. Accum, is worth reading, but too long to be extracted.

Cayenne pepper, “is sometimes adulterated with red lead, to prevent its becoming bleached on exposure to light.” (P. 305.) Pickles “are sometimes intentionally coloured by means of copper.” (P. 306.) “Mrs. E. Raffald directs, ‘to render pickles green, boil them with halfpence, or allow them to stand twenty-four hours in copper or brass pans.’” (P. 309.) “Vinegar is sometimes largely adulterated with sulphuric acid, to give it more acidity.” (P. 311.) “Red sugar drops are usually coloured with the inferior kind of vermilion. This pigment is generally adulterated with red lead. Other kinds of sweetmeats are sometimes rendered poisonous by being coloured with preparations of copper.” (P. 315, 316.) “The foreign conserves ... are frequently impregnated with copper.” (P. 317.) “Quantities” of catsup “are daily to be met with, which on a chemical examination, are found to abound with copper.” (P. 319.) “The quantity of copper which we have more than once detected in this sauce, used for seasoning, and which, on account of its cheapness, is much resorted to by people in the lower walks of life, has exceeded the proportion of lead to be met with in other articles employed in domestic economy.” (P. 320.) “The leaves of the cherry-laurel,prunus laurocerasus, a poisonous plant,” are used to flavour custards,blanc-mange, and other delicacies of the table. (P. 324.) An instance is given of the dangerous consequences of this practice. (P. 325, 326.) “The water distilled from cherry-laurel leaves is frequently mixed with brandy and other spirituous liquors.” (P. 327.) Several samples of anchovy sauce “have been found contaminated with lead.” (P. 328.) It is not unusual to employ, in preparing this sauce, “a certain quantity of Venetian red, added forthe purpose of colouring it, which, if genuine, is an innocent colouring substance. But instances have occurred of this pigment having been adulterated with orange lead, which is nothing else than a better kind of minimum or red oxid of lead.” (P, 328, 329.) In lozenges, “the adulterating ingredient is usually pipe-clay, of which a liberal portion is substituted for sugar.” (P. 330.) Dr. T. Lloyd says, “‘I was informed,’” (at arespectablechemist’s shop in the city) “‘that there were two kinds of ginger lozenges kept for sale, the one at three-pence the once, and the other at six-pence; and that the article furnished to me by mistake was the cheaper commodity. The latter were distinguished by the epithetverum, they being composed of sugar and ginger only. But the former were manufactured partly of white Cornish clay, with a portion of sugar only, with ginger and Guinea pepper. I was likewise informed, that of Tolu lozenges, peppermint lozenges, and ginger pearls, and several other sorts or lozenges, two kinds were kept; that thereducedprices, as they were called, were manufactured for those very clever persons in their own conceit, who are fond of haggling, and insist on buying better bargains than other people, shutting their eyes to the defects of an article, so that they can enjoy the delight of getting it cheap: and, secondly, for those persons, who being but bad paymasters, yet as the manufacturer, for his own credit’s sake, cannot charge more than the usual price of the article, he thinks himself therefore authorized to adulterate it in value, to make up for the risk he runs, and the long credit he must give.’” (P. 332, 333.)

Well—there is then some honesty left in the world. What a pleasure it is to have to deal with arespectableman. But we return to the practices of theknaves.

Olive oil “is sometimes contaminated with lead.” (P. 334.) The dealers in this commodity assert that lead or pewter “prevents the oil from becoming rancid. And hence some retailers often suffer a pewter measure to remain immersed in the oil.” (P. 336.) “The beverage called soda water is frequently contaminated both with copper and lead.” (P. 351.) Mr. Johnston, of Greek Street, Soho, was the first who pointed out the danger to the public. “Many kinds of viands are frequently impregnated with copper, in consequence of the employment of cooking utensels made of that metal. By the use of such vessels in dressing food, we are daily liable to be poisoned.” (P. 352.) “Mr. Thiery, who wrote a thesis on the noxious quality of copper,observes that ‘our food receives its quantity of poison, in the kitchen by the use of copper pans and dishes. The brewer mingles poison in our beer, by boiling it in copper vessels. The sugar-baker employs copper pans. The pastry-cook bakes our tarts in copper moulds. The confectioner uses copper vessels. The oilman boils his pickles in copper or brass vessels, and verdigrise is plentifully formed by the action of the vinegar upon the metal.’” (P. 353, 354.) Moreover, “various kinds of food, used in domestic economy, are liable to become impregnated with lead.” (P. 359.)

Mr. Accum, speaking on the subject of Beer, says,

“It will be noticed that some of the sophistications are comparatively harmless, whilst others are affected by substances deleterious to health.” (P. 185.)

We think, however, that the candour of Mr. Accum leads him to make too much allowance for this consideration throughout. Surely, though many articles of food be not absolutely poisonous, a diet consisting of drugs and chemical compounds and articles never intended by nature to be eaten or drunk, articles for which, presented simple, the hungriest stomach would feel no appetite or inclination, cannot be wholesome. Brick and mortar are not poison; yet we cannot, like the dragon of Wantley, swallow a church, and pick our teeth with the steeple. Many can eat oysters, but few could manage the oyster-knife. Even the Welshman of King Arthur’s court, fond as he was of toasted cheese, would inevitably have been choked by the mouse that ran down his throat to eat it, had he not “pulled him out by the tail.”

We could give farther extracts; but must refer the reader to the work itself, which contains much interesting matter, besides what we have selected. THE MONEY THAT IS OFTEN LAID OUT IN THE PURCHASE OF COOKERY BOOKS, WHICH TEACH THE ART OF EXCITING DISEASE AND PAIN BY DUBIOUS COMBINATIONS AND CULINARY POISONS, MIGHT, WE THINK, BE MUCH BETTER EXPENDED UPON A BOOK LIKE THE PRESENT; EVERY PAGE OF WHICH GIVES WARNING OF SOME DANGER, OF WHICH WE OUGHT ALL TO BE AWARE.

ATreatise on Adulterated Provisions.ByFREDRICK ACCUM.

Treatise on Adulterated Provisions.

ByFREDRICK ACCUM.

THERE IS DEATH IN THE POT.II. KINGS—CHAP. VI. VERSE XI.(From Blackwood’s Edinburgh Magazine, No. XXXV. Page 542.)

THERE IS DEATH IN THE POT.

II. KINGS—CHAP. VI. VERSE XI.

(From Blackwood’s Edinburgh Magazine, No. XXXV. Page 542.)

Mr. Accum, it appears, is one of those very good-natured friends, who is quite resolved not to allow us to be cheated and poisoned as our fathers were before us, and our children will be after us, without cackling to us of our danger, and opening our eyes to abysses of fraud and imposition, of the very existence of which we had until now the good fortune to be entirely ignorant. His book is a perfect death’s head, a memento mori, the perusal of any single chapter of which is enough to throw any man into the blue devils for a fortnight. Mr. Accum puts us something in mind of an officious blockhead, who, instead of comforting his dying friend, is continually jogging him on the elbow with such cheering assurances as the following. “I am sorry there is no hope; my dear fellow, you must kick the bucket soon. Your liver is diseased, your lungs gone, your bowels as impenetrable as marble, your legs swelled like door-posts, your face as yellow as a guinea, and the doctor just now assured me you could not live a week.”

Mr. Accum’s work is evidently written in the same spirit of dark and melancholy anticipation, which pervades Dr. Robison’s celebrated “Proofs of a Conspiracy, &c. against all the crowned heads of Europe.” The conspiracy disclosed by Mr. Accum is certainly of a still more dreadful nature, and is even more widely ramified than that which excited so much horror in the worthy professor. It is a conspiracy of brewers, bakers, grocers, wine-merchants, confectioners, apothecaries, and cooks, against the lives of all and every one of his majesty’s liege subjects. It is easy to see that Mr. Accum’s nerves are considerably agitated, that—

“Sad forebodings shake him as he writes.”

Not only at the festive board is he haunted by chimeras dire of danger—not only does he tremble over the tureen—and faint over the flesh-pot: but even in his chintz night-gown, and red morocco slippers, he is not secure. An imaginary sexton is continually jogging his elbow as he writes, a death’s head and cross bones rise onhis library table; and at the end of his sofa he beholds a visionary tomb-stone of the best granite—

ON WHICH ARE INSCRIBED THE DREADFUL WORDS—

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