Leavened Bread,
Or bread made with a portion of fermented sour dough, obtained by keeping some bread dough till the acetous fermentation takes place, when it swells, rarifies, and acquires a taste somewhat sour, and rather disagreeable. This fermented dough is well worked up with some fresh dough, which is, by that mixture and moderate heat, disposed to ferment; and by this fermentation the dough is attenuated and divided, carbonic acid is extricated, which being incapable of disengaging itself from the tenaceous and solid dough, forms it into small cavities, and raises and swells it; hence, the small quantity of fermenteddough which disposes the rest of the mass to ferment is calledleaven.
Most of the bread used by the people in the lower walks of life in France, Germany, Holland, and other European countries, is made in this manner.
Leavened bread, therefore, differs from unleavened bread, in being fermented by means ofleaven, which is nothing more than a piece of dough kept in a warm place, till it undergoes a process of fermentation, swelling, becoming spongy, and full of air bubbles, and at length disengaging an acidulous vapour, and contracting a sour taste. Leaven must, therefore, be considered as dough which has fermented and become sour, but which is still in its progress towards greater acidity.
The addition of leaven, or this species of ferment to fresh dough, produces animportant change in the bread, for when a small portion of leaven is intimately mixed with a large proportion of fresh dough, it gradually causes the whole mass to ferment throughout, a quantity of carbonic acid gas is extracted from the flour, but remaining entangled by the tenacity of the mass in which it is expanded by heat, this raises the dough, and as soon as the mass has acquired a due increase of bulk from the carbonic acid gas which endeavours to escape, it is judged to be sufficiently fermented and fit for the oven, the heat of which, by driving off the water, checks the fermentation, and forms a bread full of small cavities, entirely different from the heavy, compact, viscous masses, made by baking unfermented dough.
A great deal of nicety is required in conducting this operation, for if it is continuedtoo long, the bread will be sour, and if too short a time has been allowed for the dough to ferment and rise, it will be heavy.
Bread raised by leaven is usually made of a mixture of wheat and rye, not very accurately cleared of the bran. It is distinguished by the name ofrye bread; and the mixture of these two kinds of grain is called bread-corn, in many parts of the kingdom, where it is raised on one and the same piece of ground, and passes through all the processes of reaping, thrashing, grinding, &c. A mixture of one-hundred pounds of equal parts of wheat and rye flour, produce from one-hundred and fifty-four to one-hundred and fifty-six pounds of leavened bread.
Leavened Rye Bread.
Take a piece of dough, of about a pound weight, and keep it for use—it will keep several days very well. Mix this dough with some warm water, and knead it up with a portion of flour to ferment; then take half a bushel of flour, and divide it into four parts; mix a quarter of the flour with the leaven, and a sufficient quantity of water to make it into dough, and knead it well. Let this remain in a corner of your trough, covered with flannel, until it ferments and rises properly; then dilute it with more water, and add another quarter of the flour, and let it remain and rise. Do the same with the other two quarters of the flour, one quarter after another,taking particular care never to mix more flour till the last has risen properly. When finished, add six ounces of salt; then knead it again, and divide it into eight loaves, making them broad, and not so thick and high as is usually done, by which means they will be better baked. Let them remain to rise, in order to overcome the pressure of the hand in forming them; then put them in the oven, and reserve a piece of dough for the next baking. The dough thus kept, may with proper care, be prevented from spoiling, by mixing from time to time small quantities of fresh flour with it.
It requires some attention to be able to determine the exact quantity of leaven necessary for the proper fermentation of the dough. When it is deficient in quantity, the process of fermentation is interrupted,and the bread thus prepared is solid and heavy, and if too much leaven be used, it communicates to the bread a disagreeable sour taste.
Two large handfuls of hops are boiled in four quarts of water: this is poured upon as much wheaten bread as it will moisten, and to this are added four or five pounds of leaven. When the mass is warm, the several ingredients are worked together till well mixed. It is then deposited in a warm place for twenty-four hours, and afterwards divided into small pieces, about the size of a hen’s egg, which are dried by being placed on a board, and exposed to a dry air, but not to the sun; when dry, they arelaid up for use, and may be kept half a year. The ferment, thus prepared, is applied in the following manner: for baking six large loaves, six good handfuls of these balls are dissolved in seven or eight quarts of warm water; this water is poured through a sieve into one end of the bread trough, and after it three quarts of warm water; the remaining mass being well pressed out. The liquor is mixed up with flour, sufficient to form a mass of the size of a large loaf; this is strewed over with flour: the sieve, with its contents, is put upon it, and the whole is covered up warm, and left till it has risen enough, and its surface has begun to crack; this forms the leaven. Fifteen quarts of warm water, in which six handfuls of salt has been dissolved, are then poured upon it through the sieve; the necessary quantity of flour is added, and mixed andkneaded with the leaven: this is covered up warm, and left for about half an hour. It is then formed into loaves, which are kept for another half-hour in a warm room; and after that they are put into the oven, where they remain two or three hours, according to their size.