CHAPTER XII.DOWN TO THE SEA.
Baker Lake, about seventy miles in length and perhaps half that in breadth, was originally discovered and rudely mapped by one Captain Christopher, about the year 1770. In searching for the North-West Passage he sailed into it with two small vessels from Hudson Bay, passingen routethrough Chesterfield Inlet and the two rivers flowing into it from Baker Lake. Having with us a copy of Captain Christopher’s map, though of a very sketchy character, it afforded us some information as to our future course.
Since leaving the shores of Black Lake we had traversed to this point a distance of just eight hundred and ten miles, through an entirely unknown country. We had occupied more time in doing so than we had expected, on account of the extraordinary character of the weather, but, however, on this evening of the 2nd of September we found ourselves at the mouth of “the great river flowing to the northward,” as described by the Black Lake Indians.
From our astronomical observations and survey it was found that the extremity of the lake as determined by Christopher, and as located on the existing maps of Canada, was nine miles too far south and about fiftymiles too far west. At the mouth of the river the water was found to be shallow—in some places not more than three or four feet in depth—and for some distance out into the lake shoals were observed. Small sailing vessels or York boats would, however, have no difficulty in getting in, but it would be difficult to take the former any great distance up the river on account of the rapids. Large properly constructed river boats might be taken up stream without difficulty for a distance of 150 miles to the confluence of the west branch, and how far they might be able to ascend that large stream it is impossible for me to say. With the exception of perhaps one spot—the canyon rapid north of Tobaunt Lake—I believe the whole river from the Height of Land to Baker Lake might be navigated by river or York boats with comparative ease. At the rapid a portage could be made or possibly a navigable channel might be discovered.
I think it important to mention the above possibilities of access to this country, on account of the fact that from Tobaunt Lake to Baker Lake there stretches an extended area of promising mineral-bearing Huronian schists and trappean rocks, a series precisely similar to the silver, copper and gold bearing rocks of the north shore of Lake Superior and Lake of the Woods districts. The time must come—it may not be far distant—when the prospector and the miner will occupy all this vast field of mineral wealth.[4]
From the head of Baker Lake we were now to commencea new stage of the journey. The rough maps we had enabled us to form a fair idea of what lay ahead. From our camp to the mouth of Chesterfield Inlet on the coast of Hudson Bay measured about 250 miles, and thence down the coast of the Bay to Fort Churchill, a Hudson’s Bay Company’s post and the nearest habitation of white men, measured 500 more; so that 750 miles was the least distance we had to figure on travelling in canoes before the close of navigation.
It was now the month of September, and as winter is known to set in in the vicinity of Hudson Bay during October, my brother and I felt that our time must be employed to the very best advantage. The weather had been extremely adverse all summer, but it was now liable to be more so. Within the course of two or three weeks the equinoctial gales might be expected. The tides also would be a new feature of difficulty.
In consideration of these prospects, and in order to stimulate the men to greater exertions, it was thought best to explain our position to them, for up to this time they had little idea as to where they were, whether in the vicinity of the North Pole or within a few days’ travel of civilization. The effect produced by thus informing the canoemen was as desired. They resolved as one man to make longer days and put forth greater exertion.
Before daylight on the morning of the 3rd, camp was aroused by the sound of many voices, and a few minutes later, before we had turned out from our blankets, the door of the tent was pulled half open and two or three black burly heads with grinning faces were poked in. They were those of some of our friends from the Eskimovillage who had come over to pay us an early morning call, before we should finally leave their shores. They all held in their hands nicknacks of one kind or another which they were anxious to trade, chiefly for needles, and some would have come in and made themselves at home had I not dismissed them until we were dressed and ready to do business at a little greater distance from our blankets, which we were desirous should be inhabited only by ourselves. Later, a few fishing-lines, spoons and such trifles were purchased.
As soon as possible, the wind happily being fair, our canoes were loaded, and with many “tabowetings” to the natives and a hurrah for Baker Lake, we started out to the eastward along the north shore. But soon the wind grew strong and caused such a high sea to run that we were forced to seek shelter, which we found in the mouth of a small river. We had then made fourteen miles. Here we waited, hoping that toward evening the wind might moderate, but on the contrary it grew worse, so on the lee-side of a bluff point camp was pitched to afford us shelter from the cold piercing blast. A high wind continued all night and during the following day, when it was accompanied by snow and sleet. The temperature was so low that the fresh-water ponds were frozen over. Such a condition of climate, together with a small and rapidly diminishing stock of provisions, made us chafe at the delay; but on the morning of the 5th we were enabled to launch, and during the day made a good run of about forty miles. The shore of the lake consisted chiefly of Laurentian rock, from 150 to 300 feet in height, but at some places broad lowflats and long points of sand and boulders separated the hills from the water.
During the afternoon of the 6th, the northerly of the two rivers discharging the waters of Baker Lake was discovered. The approach to it is well marked on the north bank by a round bluff some two hundred feet in height. At first no current could be observed in the river, which, in reality, was a deep narrow fiord, but when we had advanced a distance of about two miles a stiff current, almost approaching a rapid, was met; but instead of moving with us, as would naturally be expected, it was flowing to the westward. At first sight it caused some doubts as to whether we were on the right road. The canoemen were all persuaded that we were ascending some big river and would have at once turned back, but concluding that we had already reached tide water, though sooner than we had expected, we pulled on, and before long witnessed the seemingly strange phenomenon of a river changing its direction of flow.
So smooth and bare were its glaciated shores that we had some difficulty in effecting a landing. One night was spent on this rocky bank, and the day following being fair and bright, saw us on the waters of Chesterfield Inlet. The magnetic compasses were now found to work very unsatisfactorily, but for one day the sunlight enabled me to make liberal use of my solar instrument. During the next and several succeeding days the weather was dark and gloomy, and we encountered such tide rips in the Inlet that my survey was much interfered with.
On the 10th of September, as we were pulling downthe Inlet under a strong side wind, through extremely rough water, we were glad to find about noon a sheltered cove on the north side of a large island near the south shore. Here we landed to await an improvement in the weather. While the cooks were preparing our mid-day meal, my brother and I set out for the summit of the island, a mile or more to the south, for the purpose of taking observations. In due time the breezy elevation was reached. While sighting to a prominent point to the southward, there suddenly appeared from behind it what seemed a phantom ship. For a moment I gazed upon it in amazement, but then realizing that the appearance was a real, not an imaginary one, I called my brother’s attention to it.
The object, which was several miles distant, was clearly made out to be a two-masted sail-boat, and it was heading to the westward. By whom could it be manned? We could not imagine, but there it was, with two square sails set to the wind and tearing up the inlet. By the aid of our field-glasses we could make out many moving figures on the boat, but as to whether they were whalers, Hudson’s Bay Company’s traders from Churchill, or who else, we could not conceive. If, however, they were to be more to us than a vision it was necessary to bestir ourselves, for they were rapidly passing. From my pocket I drew an immense red handkerchief and waved it most energetically, while my brother discharged several shots from his revolver. We soon saw from the boat’s movements that we were observed, but instead of coming in towards us they only bore away more to the southward. Still I vigorously waved the red handkerchief, and finally, much to ourdelight, the sails flapped loosely in the wind, then in a moment were refilled by the strong breeze and the boat swept in toward us.
The appearance of a sail-boat in Chesterfield Inlet, and especially at this late season of the year, puzzled us much, and as it drew nearer we watched it intently. It had the appearance of being a large whale-boat, and was evidently well manned, but by whom we could not tell. Whoever they might be, perhaps they could be hired to take us down the coast of the Bay to Churchill, and if so we might be saved weeks of hard travel on a very exposed and dangerous coast. We sincerely hoped that the strange mariners, or at least their boat, might be available for the voyage. When they had approached sufficiently near we could see that there were Eskimos on board, and a moment later their anchor was cast out, and several of them, making a sort of raft out of three kyacks they had in tow, paddled in to the rocky shore where we stood. In vain did we look for the face of a white man. They were all natives, and as we gazed at each other in mutual amazement, I broke the silence with the question, “Kudloonah petehungetoo?” (Is there no white man?) “Petehungetoo” (There is none), was the reply, so the whole party, which consisted of several families, men, women and children, were Eskimos, and with them in their boat they had their dogs and other necessary hunting and camping equipments. They informed us they were moving up into the interior from the coast to spend the winter, and so it was not surprising that nothing we could offer would induce them to consider the question of taking us down to Churchill or of selling their boat to us. We offeredwhat to them would have been fabulous wealth, but to no purpose. There they were with all their belongings on their way to the westward, and westward they were determined to go.
The Eskimos in turn expressed surprise at finding two solitary white men upon such a lonely, barren island, and not unnaturally asked, “Nowtimee ibbee kyette?” (Where do you come from?) I replied, “Uvagut kyette tellipea washigtooeloo towmonee koog-du-ak” (We come from the west very far, down a great river). We were then asked if we had seen any more of their people, and replied, “Uvagut tacko-namee hipunga Enuit coonetookeloo manee tacko Enuit amasuit washigtoo tellipea iglooanne attowsha sissell ungayo.” (We have seen no other Eskimos near here, but saw plenty far to the westward beyond the first big lake). They informed us that another large boat-load of their people had gone up from the coast on the previous day, and were surprised that we had not seen them. Though we were not able to purchase or charter the boat from the natives, we obtained much valuable information and a sketch-map of the coast of the Bay from the mouth of the Inlet down to Fort Churchill. After a brief stay they returned to their boat and we to the rocky hills, upon the other side of which our party awaited our return. The wind still continued to blow too strongly to admit of travelling by canoe, so we went back again and spent the rest of the day on the hills.
Next morning we were up early. The wind had fallen somewhat and the canoes were soon launched. We managed to travel until after eleven o’clock, when, because of the high wind and rough water, we were againobliged to make for the shore, and in order to do so had to pull through a heavy surf breaking over the low sandy beach. During the afternoon at this point observations for longitude were obtained, and close by upon a prominent hill a large cairn of rocks was erected to mark the spot for the benefit of future explorers.
The two following days were marked by rough weather and little progress, but finally we reached the mouth of the great Inlet through which for several days we had been paddling.
For having completed another stage of the journey we were exceedingly glad, but coupled with this fact there was another, viz., that before us was a five-hundred-mile voyage to be made in open canoes down an exposed sea-coast. Here we would be surrounded by entirely new conditions and confronted with new difficulties.
HALF-BREED BOY.
HALF-BREED BOY.
HALF-BREED BOY.