aIf the cards be not dealt into four packets, one at a time, and in regular rotation, beginning at the dealer’s left.bIf, during a deal, or during the play of a hand, the pack be proven incorrect or imperfect.cIf any card be faced in the pack.dIf any player have dealt to him a greater number of cards than thirteen.eIf the dealer deal two cards at once and then deal a third before correcting the error.fIf the dealer omit to have the pack cut and the adversaries call attention to the fact prior to the conclusion of the deal and before looking at their cards.gIf the last card do not come in its regular order to the dealer.
aIf the cards be not dealt into four packets, one at a time, and in regular rotation, beginning at the dealer’s left.
bIf, during a deal, or during the play of a hand, the pack be proven incorrect or imperfect.
cIf any card be faced in the pack.
dIf any player have dealt to him a greater number of cards than thirteen.
eIf the dealer deal two cards at once and then deal a third before correcting the error.
fIf the dealer omit to have the pack cut and the adversaries call attention to the fact prior to the conclusion of the deal and before looking at their cards.
gIf the last card do not come in its regular order to the dealer.
39. There may be a new deal—
aIf the dealer or his partner expose a card. The eldest hand may claim a new deal.bIf either adversary expose a card. The dealer or his partner may claim a new deal.cIf, before fifty-one cards are dealt, the dealer should look at any card. His adversaries have the right to see it, and the eldest hand may exact a new deal.dIf, in dealing, one of the last cards be exposed by the dealer or his partner, and the deal is completed before there is reasonable time for the eldest hand to decide as to a new deal. But in all other cases such penalties must be claimed prior to the completion of the deal.
aIf the dealer or his partner expose a card. The eldest hand may claim a new deal.
bIf either adversary expose a card. The dealer or his partner may claim a new deal.
cIf, before fifty-one cards are dealt, the dealer should look at any card. His adversaries have the right to see it, and the eldest hand may exact a new deal.
dIf, in dealing, one of the last cards be exposed by the dealer or his partner, and the deal is completed before there is reasonable time for the eldest hand to decide as to a new deal. But in all other cases such penalties must be claimed prior to the completion of the deal.
40. The claim for a new deal by reason of a card exposed during the deal may not be made by a player who has looked at any of his cards. If a new deal does not take place, the card exposed during the deal cannot be called.
41. Should three players have their right number of cards, and should the fourth, not being dummy, have less than thirteen and not discover such deficiency until he has played any of his cards, the deal stands good; should he have played, he is answerable for any revoke he may have made as if the missing card or cards had been in his hand. The other pack may be searched for the missing card or cards.
42. If during the play of a deal a pack be proven incorrect or imperfect, such proof renders only the current deal void, and does not affect any prior score. The dealer must deal again (Law 38b).
43. Any one dealing with the adversaries’ cards must be corrected before the play of the first card, otherwise the deal stands good. If any one deals when it is the turn of an adversary, such error must be corrected before the cards are dealt for the following deal.
44. A player can neither shuffle, cut nor deal for his partner without the permission of his adversaries.
45. The trump is declared. No card is turned.
aThe dealer may either make the trump or pass the declaration to his partner.bIf the declaration be passed to partner, he must make the trump.
aThe dealer may either make the trump or pass the declaration to his partner.
bIf the declaration be passed to partner, he must make the trump.
46. Should the dealer’s partner make the trump without receiving permission from the dealer, the eldest hand may demand,
1st. That the trump shall stand, or2d. That there shall be a new deal.
But if any declaration as to doubling, or not doubling, shall have been made, or if a new deal be not claimed, the declaration wrongly made shall stand. The eldest hand is the player on the left of the dealer.
47. Should the dealer’s partner pass the declaration to the dealer it shall be the right of the eldest hand to claim a new deal or to compel the offending player to declare the trump; provided, that no declaration as to doubling has been made.
48. If either of the dealer’s adversaries make or pass the declaration, the dealer may, after looking at his hand, either claim a new deal or proceed as if no declaration had been made.
49. A declaration once made cannot be altered.
50. The effect of doubling, re-doubling, and so on, is that the value of each trick above six is doubled, quadrupled, and so on.
51. After the trump declaration has been made by the dealer or his partner, their adversaries have the right to double. The eldest hand has the first right. If he does not wish to double, he may ask his partner, “May I lead?” His partner shall answer, “Yes” or “I double.”
52. If either of their adversaries elect to double, the dealer and his partner have the right to redouble. The player who has declared the trump shall have the first right. He may say, “I redouble” or “Satisfied.” Should he say the latter, his partner may redouble.
53. If the dealer or his partner elect to redouble, their adversaries shall have the right to again double. The original doubler has the first right.
54. If the right-hand adversary of the dealer double before his partner has asked “May I lead?” the declarer of the trump shall have the right to say whether or not the double shall stand. If he decide that the double shall stand, the process of re-doubling may continue as described in paragraphs 52, 53, 55.
55. The process of re-doubling may be continued indefinitely.[1]The first right to continue the re-doubling on behalf of a partnership belongs to that player who has last redoubled. Should he, however, express himself satisfied, the right to continue the re-doubling passes to his partner. Should any player redouble out of turn, the adversary who last doubled shall decide whether or not such double shall stand. If it is decided that the redouble shall stand, the process of re-doubling may continue as described in this and foregoing laws (52 and 53). If any double or redouble out of turn be not accepted there shall be no further doubling in that hand. Any consultation between partners as to doubling or re-doubling will entitle the maker of the trump or the eldest hand, without consultation, to a new deal.
56. If the eldest hand lead before the doubling be completed, his partner may redouble only with the consent of the adversary who last doubled; but such lead shall not affect the right of either adversary to double.
57. When the question, “May I lead?” has been answered in the affirmative or when the player who has the last right to continue the doubling, expresses himself satisfied, the play shall begin.
58. Should the eldest hand lead without asking permission, his partner may double, but only if the maker of the trump consent.
59. Should the right-hand adversary of the dealer ask permission to lead, the eldest hand does not thereby lose his right to double. Should the right-hand adversary of the dealer double before his partner has asked “May I lead?” the maker of the trump shall have the right to say whether or not the double shall stand. If he decide that the double shall stand, the process of re-doubling may continue as described in Laws 52, 53, 55.
60. If the right-hand adversary of the dealer lead out of turn, the maker of the trump may call a suit from the eldest hand, who may only double if the maker of the trump consent.
A declaration as to doubling or re-doubling once made cannot be altered.
[1]In some clubs, doubling ceases whenever the value of the odd trick exceeds one hundred points; in other clubs the limit is placed at two hundred points.
[1]In some clubs, doubling ceases whenever the value of the odd trick exceeds one hundred points; in other clubs the limit is placed at two hundred points.
61. As soon as the eldest hand has led, the dealer’s partner shall place his cards face upward on the table, and the duty of playing the cards from that hand shall devolve upon the dealer, unassisted by his partner.
62. Before exposing his cards, the dealer’s partner has all the rights of a player, but after his cards have been shown the dealer’s partner takes no part whatever in the play, except that he has the right—
aTo ask the dealer whether he has none of the suit in which he may have renounced.bTo ask the dealer when called upon to play his highest or lowest card whether he has conformed to the penalty.cTo call the dealer’s attention to the fact that a trick has not been completed.dTo correct the claim of either adversary to a penalty to which the latter is not entitled.eTo call attention to the fact that a trick has been erroneously taken by either side.fTo participate in the discussion of any disputed question of fact which may arise between the dealer and either adversary.gTo correct an erroneous score.
aTo ask the dealer whether he has none of the suit in which he may have renounced.
bTo ask the dealer when called upon to play his highest or lowest card whether he has conformed to the penalty.
cTo call the dealer’s attention to the fact that a trick has not been completed.
dTo correct the claim of either adversary to a penalty to which the latter is not entitled.
eTo call attention to the fact that a trick has been erroneously taken by either side.
fTo participate in the discussion of any disputed question of fact which may arise between the dealer and either adversary.
gTo correct an erroneous score.
63. Should the dealer’s partner call attention to any other incident of the play, in consequence of which any penalty might be exacted, the fact of his so doing precludes the dealer exacting such penalty.
64. If the dealer’s partner, by touching a card or otherwise, suggest the play of a card from dummy, either of the adversaries may, but without consultation, call upon the dealer to play or not to play the card suggested.
65. Dummy is not liable to the penalty for a revoke; and if he should revoke and the error be not discovered until the trick is turned and quitted, the trick stands good.
66. A card from the dealer’s hand is not played until actually quitted; but should the dealer name or touch a card from the dummy hand, such card is considered as played, unless the dealer in touching the card or cards says, “I arrange,” or words to that effect.
67. If, after the deal has been completed and before the trump declaration has been made, either the dealer or his partner expose a card from his hand, the eldest hand may, without consulting with his partner, claim a new deal.
68. If, after the deal has been completed and before a card is led, any player shall expose a card, his partner shall forfeit any right to double or redouble which he otherwise would have been entitled to exercise; and in case of a card being so exposed by the leader’s partner, the dealer may either call the card or require the leader not to lead the suit of the exposed card.
69. All cards exposed by the dealer’s adversaries are liable to be called, and such cards must be left face upward on the table.
70. The following are exposed cards:
1st. Two or more cards played at once.2d. Any card dropped with its face upward, or in any way exposed on or above the table, even though snatched up so quickly that no one can name it.3d. Every card so held by a player that his partner can see any portion of its face.
1st. Two or more cards played at once.
2d. Any card dropped with its face upward, or in any way exposed on or above the table, even though snatched up so quickly that no one can name it.
3d. Every card so held by a player that his partner can see any portion of its face.
71. A card dropped on the floor or elsewhere below the table is not an exposed card.
72. If two or more cards be played at once, by either of the dealer’s adversaries, the dealer shall have the right to call which one he pleases to the current trick, and the other card or cards shall remain face upward on the table and may be called at any time.
73. If, without waiting for his partner to play, either of the dealer’s adversaries should play on the table the best card or lead one which is a winning card, as against the dealer and dummy, or should continue (without waiting for his partner to play) to lead several such cards, the dealer may demand that the partner of the player in fault, win, if he can, the first, or any other of these tricks, and the other cards thus improperly played are exposed cards.
74. If either or both of the dealer’s adversaries throw his or their cards on the table face upward, such cards are exposed and are liable to be called; but if either adversary retain his hand he cannot be forced to abandon it. If, however, the dealer should say, “I have the rest,” or any other words indicating that the remaining tricks are his, the adversaries of the dealer are not liable to have any of their cards called should they expose them, believing the dealer’s claim to be true, should it subsequently prove false.
75. If a player who has rendered himself liable to have the highest or lowest of a suit called (Laws 82, 91, 92 and 100), fail to play as directed, or if, when called on to lead one suit, lead another, having in his hand one or more cards of the suit demanded (Law 76), or if called upon to win or lose a trick, fail to do so when he can (Laws 73, 82 and 100), he is liable to the penalty for revoke, unless such play be corrected before the trick is turned and quitted.
76. If either of the dealer’s adversaries lead out of turn, the dealer may call the card erroneously led, or may call a suit when it is the turn of either adversary to lead.
77. If the dealer lead out of turn, either from his own hand or dummy, he incurs no penalty; but he may not rectify the error after the second hand has played.
78. If any player lead out of turn and the other three follow him, the trick is complete and the error cannot be rectified; but if only the second, or second and third play to the false lead, their cards may be taken back; there is no penalty against anyone except the original offender, who, if he be one of the dealer’s adversaries, may be penalised as provided in Laws 60 and 76.
79. In no case can a player be compelled to play a card which would oblige him to revoke.
80. The call of an exposed card may be repeated at every trick until such card has been played.
81. If a player called on to lead a suit have none of it, the penalty is paid.
82. Should the third hand not have played and the fourth play before his partner, the latter (not being dummy or dealer) may be called upon to play his highest or lowest card of the suit played, or to win or lose the trick.
83. If anyone, not being dummy, omit playing to a former trick and such error be not corrected until he has played to the next, the adversaries may claim a new deal; should they decide that the deal stands good, the surplus card at the end of the hand is considered to have been played to the imperfect trick, but does not constitute a revoke therein.
84. If anyone (except dummy) play two cards to the same trick, or mix a card with a trick to which it does not belong, and the mistake be not discovered until the hand is played out, he is answerable for any consequent revokes he may have made. If during the play of the hand the error be detected, the tricks may be counted face downward, in order to ascertain whether there be among them a card too many; should this be the case, the trick which contains a surplus card may be examined and the card restored to its original holder, who (not being dummy) shall be liable for any revoke he may meanwhile have made.
85. A revoke occurs when a player (other than dummy), holding one or more cards of the suit led, plays a card of a different suit. The penalty for a revoke takes precedence of all other counts.
86. A revoke is established if the trick in which it occurs be turned and quitted,i.e.the hand removed from the trick after it has been gathered and placed face downward on the table; or if either the revoking player or his partner, whether in his right turn or otherwise, have led or played to the following trick.
87. The penalty for a revoke is three tricks taken from the revoking player and added to those of the adversaries.
88. The penalty is applicable only to the score of the game in which it occurs.
89. Under no circumstances can the revoking side score game, in that hand. Whatever their previous score may have been, the side revoking cannot attain a higher score toward game than twenty-eight.
90. A player may ask his partner, whether he has not a card of the suit which he has renounced; should the question be asked before the trick is turned and quitted, subsequent turning and quitting does not establish a revoke, and the error may be corrected unless the question be answered in the negative or unless the revoking player or his partner has led or played to the following trick.
91. If a player correct his mistake in time to save a revoke, any player or players who have followed him may withdraw their cards and substitute others, and the cards so withdrawn are not exposed cards. If the player in fault be one of the dealer’s adversaries, the card played in error is an exposed card, and the dealer can call it whenever he pleases; or he may require the offender to play his highest or lowest card of the suit to the trick in which he has renounced.
92. If the player in fault be the dealer, the eldest hand may require him to play the highest or lowest card of the suit in which he has renounced, provided both adversaries of the dealer have played to the current trick; but this penalty cannot be exacted against the dealer when he is fourth in hand, nor can it be enforced at all from dummy.
93. At the end of a hand the claimants of a revoke may search all the tricks. If the cards have been mixed the claim may be urged andproved if possible; but no proof is necessary, and the revoke is established if, after it has been claimed, the accused player or his partner mix the cards before they have been sufficiently examined by the adversaries.
94. A revoke must be claimed before the cards have been cut for the following deal.
95. Should the players on both sides subject themselves to the revoke penalty neither can win the game by that hand.
96. The revoke penalty may be claimed for as many revokes as occur during a hand; but the accumulated penalty shall in no event exceed thirteen tricks. (See Law 7.)
97. There should not be any consultation between partners as to the enforcement of penalties. If they do so consult, the penalty is paid.
98. Once a trick is complete, turned and quitted it must not be looked at (except under Law 84), until the end of the hand.
99. Any player during the play of a trick or after the four cards are played and before they are touched for the purpose of gathering them together, may demand that the cards be placed before their respective players.
100. If either of the dealer’s adversaries, prior to his partner’s playing, should call attention to the trick, either by saying it ishis, or, without being requested so to do, by naming his card or drawing it toward him, the dealer may require that opponent’s partner to play his highest or lowest card of the suit led, or to win or lose the trick.
101. Either of the dealer’s adversaries may call his partner’s attention to the fact that he is about to lead out of turn, but if he make any unauthorised reference to any incident of the play the dealer may call a suit from the adversary whose turn it is next to lead.
102. In all cases where a penalty has been incurred, the offender is bound to give reasonable time for the decision of his adversaries; but if a wrong penalty be demanded none can be enforced.
103. The partner of the eldest hand may inform him that their adversaries have incurred a penalty, but may not give any further information. Should he suggest the penalty, or demand the enforcement of it, such action shall be deemed a consultation, and no penalty can be enforced.
104. Unless a pack be imperfect, no player shall have the right to call for one new pack. If fresh cards are demanded, two packs must be furnished and paid for by the player who has demanded them. If they are furnished during a rubber, the adversaries shall have their choice of new cards. If it is the beginning of a new rubber, thedealer, whether he or one of his adversaries be the party calling for the new cards, shall have the choice. New cards must be called for before the pack is cut for a new deal.
105. A card or cards torn or marked must be replaced by agreement or new cards furnished.
106. While a bystander, by agreement among the players, may decide any question, yet he must on no account say anything unless appealed to; and if he make any remark which calls attention to an oversight affecting the score, or to the exaction of a penalty, he is liable to be called on by the players to pay the stakes on that rubber.
I.—Where players agree “not to play spades” the rule is, that if the spade make is not doubled, the hand shall be played where either side is 20 or over.II.—If the third hand player ask, “Shall I play?” or should he lead out of turn, or should the eldest hand lead without asking permission to play, the spade maker may take two on the score or may call a lead and require the hand to be played out.III.—Should the third hand player double before his partner asks permission to play, the spade maker may decide whether the double shall stand or not; but the hand must be played out.
I.—Where players agree “not to play spades” the rule is, that if the spade make is not doubled, the hand shall be played where either side is 20 or over.
II.—If the third hand player ask, “Shall I play?” or should he lead out of turn, or should the eldest hand lead without asking permission to play, the spade maker may take two on the score or may call a lead and require the hand to be played out.
III.—Should the third hand player double before his partner asks permission to play, the spade maker may decide whether the double shall stand or not; but the hand must be played out.
It has been truthfully said that there is no game in which slight intimations can convey so much information as that of Bridge. In justice to those who, by their manner, give information, it may be stated that most of the apparent unfairness at the Bridge table is unintentional. Hesitation and mannerisms, however, cannot be too carefully avoided; such a breach of etiquette is an offence for which the adversaries have no redress except perhaps a refusal to continue the play.
It is obviously a greater fault to take advantage of information thus given. A play in your judgment may be perfectly sound, but you leave yourself open to criticism if it is in any way contingent on information obtained from your partner’s manner.
Cultivate uniformity in your style of play; let there be no remarkable haste or hesitation in making or passing; try always to use the same formula of words, and do not call attention to the score after the cards have been dealt.
Remember that any undue hesitancy in regard to doubling will deprive a fair-minded partner of the privilege of so doing. Such delays are too frequent at spade declarations.
Emphasise no play of your own and show no pleasure or displeasure at any other play.
Do not ask to have the cards placed unless it is solely for your own information.
It is an offence either to revoke purposely or to make a second revoke in order to conceal the first.
The dealer’s partner should not call attention to the score nor to any card or cards that he or the other players hold, and neither should he leave his seat for the purpose of watching his partner’s play.
When there is an unusual distribution of the cards, no remarks of any kind should be allowed.
After a hand has been played, it may be discussed to the common benefit; but the bore who is continually blowing up his partner to show his superior knowledge, together with the player who interrupts the game to discuss the play, should be ostracised from the card-room. Superiority of skill is shown by the play of the cards, not by mannerisms.
It is often difficult to refrain from showing pleasure at the accomplishment of a desired purpose, but undue elation is most aggravating to the adversaries.
Do not make a dig at the adversaries by confiding to your partner that your success was due to an ill-judged play of the opponent.
It is not good form to complain of poor cards, as you imply that the adversaries profit by your weak hands and not by their skill.
The better players rarely criticise unless asked to do so; it is usually the inexperienced player who offers an astonishing amount of gratuitous and unsought-for advice.
Do not tell your partner, after seeing all the cards, what he should have done, but think what you would have done in your partner’s place. Do not criticise at all, but if you must, criticise fairly.
When the game is played by three persons, the cards are cut to decide which shall have the dummy; the one cutting the lowest card has the deal and a permanent dummy during the game or the rubber, as the case may be. It is then customary for each player to have dummy in turn, during one game or rubber.
In playing rubbers, 100 points are added to the score of the winning side.
In playing games, 50 points are added to the score of the winning side.
If the make is passed to dummy, four aces or three aces constitute a compulsory “no-trump” declaration; otherwise, dummy must declare the longest suit.
When there are two suits of equal length, dummy must select the suit, which counts most by spots, the ace counting eleven and the other honours ten each. If the suits are still equal, dummy declares the one having the higher trick valuation.
Only one adversary, the leader, can double.
If the dealer has seen the two hands, he is not allowed to redouble.
The dummy hand is not exposed until the doubling has been settled and a card led.
When the dummy is the leader, his partner must look at the dummy hand and lead from it before seeing his own cards; and dummy alone has the right to double.
There are various methods of playing Dummy Bridge. An approved feature is to allow either adversary to double the dealer’s make and to eliminate doubling on a forced make.
Practise soon shows a player the relative importance of playing for the greatest possible number of points and tricks, and of playing to win or to save the game. No matter how cleverly the cards are managed, the player who underestimates the attention the state of the score demands, will unnecessarily lose many a rubber. The declaration largely depends upon the score, and much of the play is influenced by the number of tricks required to win or to save the game.
Most Bridge players take means to ascertain the score before announcing a declaration; it is only an occasional game that is lost by a hasty declaration regardless of the state of the score; but in the play of the hand, the score is frequently entirely overlooked. Interested in his scheme of play, the dealer will try for too much or too little, and quite lose sight of what should be his first goal—to win or to save the game.
With a game to the good, the advantage conferred by the position is too great to risk by a rash make. When you are a game ahead, make none but a conservative and sound declaration. When you are a game behind, the score justifies a bold make.
On the rubber game, particularly if the adversaries are over twenty, the dealer may attempt a forward declaration, but his partner should not be too reckless, realising that the dealer knew the situation and did not consider his hand worth a venture.
At twenty-four or more on the score, with a strong black suit the make should not be passed; average assistance in your partner’s hand will probably enable you to win the game; and with weak red suits, a passed red declaration may be doubled and the game won by the adversaries.
When the score is twenty-four to nothing against you either on the first game or when you are a game to the good, avoid a doubtful declaration which may enable the adversaries to win the game on your deal. There is a vast difference whether the adversaries start their deal wanting a few points or whether they have the first deal on a new game.
When the score is twenty-four all on the rubber game, the dealer may pass a fairly strong hand trusting he can win the game with any declaration; and at this score dummy should not hesitate to declare his best suit. It is highly probable that the adversaries would win out on the next deal.
Correct dealer’s play is closely influenced by the state of the score. The game is an important goal which should never be hazardedfor the sake of an extra trick; but, if this goal is not assured, the loss of a few extra points in an effort to reach it, demands but small consideration.
When there is the slightest chance that the adversaries may win the game on your deal, hasten to secure the tricks needful to insure its safety. Many times the game can only be won or saved in case the cards lie in a certain position, and the dealer must assume that the cards are favourably placed and play the hand accordingly.
When the game is saved, but with no possibility of winning it, the seventh trick should be the objective point in the dealer’s play. When you cannot reach game, never hazard the odd trick in an attempt to win two tricks. In a no-trump declaration, the risk would be twenty-four points for a possible gain of twelve points; and if you lose the odd trick, it may enable the adversaries to win the game on their deal.
The probabilities are not in favour of winning against declared strength. The score will indicate the number of tricks needful to save the game, and the adversaries should take no chances until this important object is attained. Until the game is saved, make no effort to gain extra tricks. Many a rubber which the prompt lead of a high card might have saved is lost by trying for too much.
If you find that the continuation of a certain line of play will lose the rubber, abandon your scheme and take the one chance of finding in your partner’s hand the cards that will save the game. The loss of an extra trick is of slight importance compared with the loss of the game.
The advantage of the deal is enormous, and it is important to utilise it properly to make the largest possible score with the least possible risk. The make shows the great increase in percentage of the good player over the poor one. More rubbers are lost by bad makes than by bad play. The cautious man who passes “no-trumpers” will lose many games by his extreme carefulness. The reckless man loses even more by declaring “no-trump” when his partner must have a “no-trumper” to pull him through. As the element of luck has a potent influence on the result of a make, a sound declaration based on the merits of the hand may be unsuccessful. No one can select the winning trump every time, and an occasional loss must be borne with equanimity for the sake of the many successes; the make that will win with average strength in the dummy hand will pay in the long run. Do not hope for too much, or expect too little assistance from your partner; give him credit for no more and no less than the average hand. If you question yourself—what will my partner probably make it if I pass?—you will find it a great help in determining the declaration. He will usually make it your weak suit, and it follows that you may depend on him for protection in that suit.
A sound make may necessitate the sacrifice of the possibility of a large score for the sake of positively winning the game. The chance for the game takes precedence of all other considerations.
As Bridge is played for points, a fair amount of regard is also due the honour score. A declaration that is apt to give honours to the adversaries is a costly method of winning the game.
It is difficult for the beginner to understand the reason for certain formulated rules for the makes, but it will pay the average novice to accept the judgment of those who have learned by, often bitter, experience. Sound makes will win in the long run, and the rules should not be scorned merely because in a few hands the cards were badly placed.
While a good red declaration is always preferable to a doubtful “no-trumper,” yet when a bold dash for the game must be made, a forward “no-trump” declaration is the safest risk; and experience certainly shows that what is called a doubtful “no-trumper” will succeed more often than it fails. Such a declaration has a great advantage over a light red make. There is a wider range for assistance in the dummy hand. The make does not disclose the dealer’s principal strength. It offers the adversaries a larger scope for errors, and an error is more costly in a “no-trump” hand. Theopponents have no means of knowing their combined strength, and for this reason their best suit may never be made; while the dealer knows the suit to establish and can arrange the lead to bring it in. In short, the dealer can utilise his strength and the adversaries’ drawbacks to the best advantage in a “no-trump” hand. As a logical consequence, a strong player may take more chances in the make.
Your goal is the game, and at a love score, this can be reached with fewest tricks at a “no-trump” declaration. Therefore, lacking a good red hand, a “no-trump” declaration that with average strength in your partner’s hand will secure the odd trick, will more often win than lose.
What constitutes an average hand, and how much help should you expect from your partner, are frequent inquiries. As the trick-taking value of a hand may depend entirely on the distribution of the remaining cards, these questions are difficult to answer. An average hand, however, contains the equivalent of one ace, one king, one queen, etc.
An established suit that can be made before the adversaries obtain the lead the second time is always a great advantage.
A “no-trump” make that is not protected in three suits is dangerous, but, even if you are entirely void of a suit with real strength in the other three, you can reasonably expect your partner to supply protection in the missing suit. Aces are an important helpin establishing your suits, and are much greater strength than kings or queens, which may be led through and captured. A no-trump make without an ace is liable to score honours for the adversaries—in rare cases 100 points—and is almost never sound.
There should be a certain set standard for a “no-trump” make, but at times it is difficult to draw the line that divides the hands that should be passed from those that warrant a “no-trump” declaration. It is obvious that a good player will make more with a hand than a poor one; consequently a greater risk may be taken by players who thoroughly understand the finesse and strategy of the game. The make which would prove successful if played correctly, if badly played might be disastrous. Then again your adversaries must be regarded; if pitted against weak players, you are more apt to pull a “no-trumper” through than when matched against opponents who will take advantage of any failing in your hand or play.
Unless you hold a strong heart hand, or, unless the game can be won with a trump declaration, three aces should usually be considered an obligatory “no-trumper.” No doubt a three-ace hand containing no other honour, is a weak one with which to make the strongest declaration; but experience demonstrates that if your partner holds an average hand or any one long suit, loss seldom occurs. When the make does lose, the points secured above the line usually compensate for the loss sustained in trick points, and if the rule is consistently followed, the total gain will be many times greater than the aggregate loss.
At a love score, if the ace suits contain additional honours, “no-trumps” should always be declared with two aces and a guarded honour in another suit. This is particularly true if the aces are red; if you hold the two red aces, it is doubtful if your partner could declare any other than a black make. A long suit, particularly one that can be easily established, is additional strength; and jacks, tens and nines are an important assistance to a two-ace “no-trump” declaration.
If all the remaining cards in the ace suits are small, and if the protection in the third suit is doubtful, “no-trumps” can scarcely be considered a safe declaration. A guarded honour or a protected suit is supposed to imply a certain trick; but a king once guarded or a queen twice guarded may be led through and captured.
Guarded suits are:
The value of these suits is greater or less according to the size of the top honour, the number of cards in sequence, and the length of the suit.
An ace suit may contain:
A K x A Q x A J x A 10 x A x x A
But the value of the ace suit diminishes according to the decreased value of the next card. A single ace is of little use in blocking the adversaries’ suit, and it may often block the long suit in dummy.
A “no-trump” declaration that is unguarded in two suits, is always dangerous; while you can rely on your partner to protect one suit, it is a bit sanguine to expect him to hold guards in two. However, a hand containing a long established suit, headed by ace, king, queen, and another ace, wins at “no-trump” many more times than it loses, and the make must, therefore, be classed as sound. If you hold twosuits headed by ace king, and particularly if these suits are red, a “no-trump” declaration is preferable to passing; but with less strength, the make should not be attempted except at an adverse score.
With one ace and general protection in all the suits, “no-trump” should be declared. Of course, the adversaries may secure the honour score, and it is probable that such a hand will contain no long suit; but any good suit in your partner’s hand will ensure the safety of the make.
With one ace and but two other protected suits, “no-trumps” should not be declared unless the guarded suits include at least two honours. “No-trump” declarations with one ace and a single honour in each of two other suits are often made to the score, but a venture of this kind is dangerous and is more apt to lose than to win.
A six or seven card suit headed by ace, king, and queen, with a guarded king in another suit, will usually succeed as a “no-trumper.”
A “no-trump” make without an ace is almost never sound. There are, no doubt, extreme cases where, with a king and queen in each suit, this make may be justifiable; but the honour score obtained by the adversaries will usually far exceed the trick points secured by the dealer.
The advisability of a heart make is contingent on the length and strength of the heart suit, as well as on the probable trick-taking value of the hand. However, as the honour score must also be regarded, hearts should be declared with four honours irrespective of the strength of the other suits; the honour score will usually more than compensate for any possible loss in trick points.
Declare hearts with but four cards, including three high honours, provided you hold another long suit or two outside tricks; results show conclusively that this make is sound.
Hearts should be declared with five hearts, including two honours and at least one outside trick. Without this extra trick a five-heart declaration with two honours—unless they are ace and king—is unsafe.
Hearts should be declared with six trumps, including one honour; but, with fewer than six trumps, a one honour make is doubtful. Occasionally it may not be advisable to pass five hearts with one honour—holding, say, five hearts and four diamonds; your partner’s make would probably be black.
In considering such a declaration, the value of a long side suit that either is, or can be easily established, must not be overlooked. The strength of a five-card trump hand with a long suit and a re-entry card, is apparent to those who have had Whist experience. It requires but one trump honour from your partner to make this a winning hand, and unless the remaining cards are very unfortunately placed, it is difficult to defeat the make.
With a good side suit, do not hesitate to declare hearts with five, including an honour. Even a four-card side suit is usually a help. It is when the hand is divided 5, 3, 3, 2, that you are apt to lose by being forced to follow suit. Therefore a short suit is a help to a five-trump hand; to be sure, it may at times enable the adversaries to force you, but as you can always prevent the adversaries’ high cards in that suit from making, a short suit is a greater benefit than detriment.
Generally declare a red make holding six cards with one honour, five cards with two honours, or four with three honours. Some makes may be attempted with or without outside strength, while others require a certain amount of strength in side suits. The value of a long suit and the importance of inferring the probable passed make, has been mentioned.
Below are given various combinations of honours showing the strength required for a red make. Only general rules are cited and the particular value of the hand must be left to the individual judgment. In these examples, the score has not been considered.
A number of hands are given below to illustrate the value of a long suit. If your partner holds an average hand the long suit can usually be made.
There are many players who delight in declaring “no-trumps,” overlooking the fact that they may hold a suit declaration that would be certain to win the game without the risk attending a “no-trump” make.
Although one more trick is necessary at hearts, the chances are that if the game can be won at “no-trump,” it will be won with equal facility at hearts. The adversaries may hold an established suit ormay establish and make a suit at “no-trump” which it would be impossible for them to bring in with a trump declaration. There is no rule so universally followed among the better players as that of declaring hearts in preference to “no-trump.”
As there are two declarations of greater value, it is often advisable to pass a fair diamond make to your partner in the hope that he may be able to make it a “no-trumps” or hearts. There is no declaration more universally disliked than diamonds. It is frequently spoken of as the “deadly” or “unlucky” diamond make. Players seem to be continually making or not making it at the wrong time. Often an original diamond declaration will find your partner with a game hand at “no-trumps” or hearts; again, when the make is passed and your partner declares spades, you make eternal vows never to pass a diamond hand.
The diamond is essentially a score make, and should be attempted at a score which admits of a reasonable chance to win the game. With a love score it requires a very strong hand to win the game; eleven of the thirteen tricks must be won. When the adversaries are 24 to your nothing either on the first or on the rubber game, it is most important that you win the game before it becomes the turn of the adversary to deal. Winning three or four odd tricks will be of little use, as in all probability the adversaries will make the number of points requisite to go out on their own deal. At this score, it is usually better to pass a fair diamond hand in the hope that your partner can make a stronger declaration.
If at least 24 points are necessary to win the game and there is a question between a diamond and a “no-trump” make, the preference should be given to the “no-trump” declaration. Each trick at “no-trump” is worth just twice as much as at diamonds, and if it is possible to win four or five odd tricks with diamonds, you will have no difficulty in making the fewer number required at “no-trump.”
In considering the advisability of a diamond make, infer from your hand your partner’s probable declaration. If you hold no ace, there is a fair chance that he will declare “no-trump.” If you hold but one or two hearts, you are likely to get a heart declaration; an honourincluded in these hearts would support the supposed make. If you hold length in the heart suit, say five diamonds and four hearts, there is small hope for a red declaration by your partner; at this time, and when your hand contains cards that preclude the possibility of a “no-trumper,” the make should not be passed.
Occasionally diamonds should be declared as a safety make, with a hand that affords little help to a “no-trump” or a heart declaration. Take the following hand:
Should the hand be passed, partner will either declare hearts or “no-trump.” Unless he holds great strength or the cards are very fortunately placed, you must lose, and not only that, your partner’s make is also very apt to be doubled. If your partner holds a strong hand the diamond declaration may win the game; at any rate it will sufficiently increase your score to facilitate winning on your next deal. As a matter of fact, this hand was held and the make was passed. The dummy held the following hand:
Hearts were declared, the adversary doubled, and the dealer lost three by cards. While in this hand the remaining cards were unfortunately placed for the dealer, still it shows that a strong make may be defeated when you can lend it no support.
The general rules given for the heart makes may be applied to the diamond declaration.
An original club should be made only when the score is 18 or more, and the hand strong enough, with slight assistance, to win the game. As there are three declarations of greater value than either clubs or spades, unless there is a reasonable chance to win the game, black makes should not be considered. Your partner may be able to make a red or a “no-trump” declaration, and, failing these, his defensive black declaration may suit your hand. There are unpleasant occasions when you hold a strong club hand and your partner declares spades. When the make has been doubled and you have little strength to support it, you are very apt to regret that you did not make an original club. While this may be true of an occasional hand, don’t forget the many times your partner can give you a heart or a “no-trump” make which will enable you to win the game.
If, however, you hold a black hand when you are a game to the good, with 8 points or more on the second game, particularly if the hand contains four club honours, it may not be advisable to pass the declaration. The honour score together with the probable trick value of the hand will win more points than the average hand is worth, whereas you could not support your partner’s red declaration.
Spades should never be declared offensively, unless to win the game at a score of 24 or more points. With a very weak hand some players advise a defensive spade make with the hope of preventing a disastrous passed make. Statistics, no doubt, prove the correctness of this theory, still but few of the better players attempt a defensive spade declaration unless the score justifies their so doing. If you are a game to the good and perhaps well along on the second game, with a hand too poor to support an average “no-trump” or red make, it might be wise not to risk the advantage already gained. Should the adversaries win the game on your deal, it would give them the first deal on the rubber game.
At a love score, however, no player should deprive his partner of the privilege of declaring the trump to win. Many times a passed “no-trump” or red make is strong enough with slight assistance to win the game.
The success of an original “no-trump” make is often due to the fact that the adversaries do not discover the dealer’s weak suit; a passed“no-trumper,” however, is exposed, and has the additional disadvantage of the dealer’s acknowledged weakness. The dealer shows by passing that he has not a strong hand; neither has he much strength in the red suits; while this latter inference may be doubtful, for the dealer often passes with fair strength in diamonds and occasionally in both red suits, still the fact remains that a passed “no-trump” make that is weak in the red suits, is extremely risky.
It is remarkable how many passed “no-trumpers” go astray, and the number proves the necessity for more cautious passed makes. The dummy hand, in declaring the trump, should keep in mind the general rules suggested for the dealer, and be governed in his choice by the state of the score, by the general strength of his hand, and by the dealer’s acknowledged weakness.
A speculative spirit is so strong in some players that they find it difficult to resist announcing a make which they know to be unsound, yet with which they hope, by a fortuitous combination of circumstances, to win. Often the result of one hand, which proves nothing, will encourage this tendency toward unsound makes.
Be very careful about declaring a red trump with but four cards. The beginner’s distaste for spade makes, frequently leads to a light red make which is doubled, and the game thrown away. As a general rule, it is wrong to attempt a red trump unless the hand is worth atleast four tricks. With fewer than four tricks, make the declaration that will lose the least. The score will often warrant a risky make, but consider that your partner knew the score and did not deem his hand worth a venture. Do not flatter your partner by a few kind remarks and then place a hand on the table that is a disgrace to your judgment.
When you are ahead on the game, avoid all weak heart and diamond makes. If you must gamble, a “no-trump” make is a safer speculation.
With four or more clubs, including two honours and one or two worthless spades, clubs will usually prove the more profitable declaration. For defensive purposes a club is useful and is a safer defence than an extremely weak spade, which the adversaries will probably double.
Do not hesitate to make it spades when your hand is weak; and be cautious at all times about making a declaration which will more easily win the game for your adversaries than for you.
A custom that is rapidly growing in favour is that of not playing an undoubled spade make unless the dealer is 20 or more on the game. If the hand is not to be played, the dealer scores two points for the odd trick and the honours are credited to the side that holds them.
All Bridge players have objected at times to the tediousness of spade hands, and this may be the cause of the increasing popularity of this innovation in the more prominent clubs. When Bridge is played for a stake, the result is reached in a much shorter time by throwing spade hands, but there is no reason why other players should not find as much interest in a spade hand as in a stronger declaration.
The rule of abandoning spade hands unless the dealer is 20 or more is unsound. If this custom is to stand the test of time, it must be equitable. It should read: “If either side is 20 or more the hand should be played.” It is an obvious injustice to the adversaries not to play a spade hand when the dealer is, say, 14 and the adversaries 28; for, if the opponents do not double, they have no chance to win the game on that hand; while if they do double, a redouble might follow, which would give the dealer an excellent chance to win the game.