25 pounds pure white lead1 gallon pure raw linseed oil½ gallon pure turpentine¼ pint drier, free from rosin
25 pounds pure white lead1 gallon pure raw linseed oil½ gallon pure turpentine¼ pint drier, free from rosin
(b) Body Coat:
25 pounds pure white lead3⁄8gallon pure raw linseed oil3⁄8gallon pure turpentine¼ pint drier, free from rosin
25 pounds pure white lead3⁄8gallon pure raw linseed oil3⁄8gallon pure turpentine¼ pint drier, free from rosin
(c) Finishing Coat:
25 pounds pure white lead1 gallon pure raw linseed oil¼ pint pure turpentine¼ pint drier.
25 pounds pure white lead1 gallon pure raw linseed oil¼ pint pure turpentine¼ pint drier.
One must exercise his own discretion in using a larger or smaller quantity of oil according to whether the wood is oil absorbing, as white pine, poplar, and basswood, or less permeable, as yellow pine, cypress, spruce, and hemlock.
28. Formulas for Making Tinted Paint.—Any color or tint may be obtained by varying the addition of tinting colors. These tinting colors are called "colors in oil." The colors should be added to the white lead before the paint is thinned.
To twenty-five pounds of white lead ground in oil add colors in oil as follows:
Medium Blue Slate3½ oz. lamp blackGray Blue¼ oz. lamp black1 oz. Prussian blue¼ oz. medium chrome greenDark Drab5 lbs. French ochre½ lb. lamp black¼ lb. Venitian redDark Slate2 oz. lamp black3 oz. medium chrome yellowDark Lilac1 oz. lamp black5 oz. Venitian redLilac½ oz. lamp black1½ oz. Venitian redForest Green1½ oz. lamp black8 lbs. light green5 oz. medium chrome yellowBuff1½ lb. French ochre3⁄8oz. Venitian RedCream5 oz. French ochreSea Green3⁄8oz. lamp black½ oz. medium chrome green1¼ oz. medium chrome yellow
Where tinting colors are used in sufficiently large quantities to alter the consistency of the paint, add one-half as much linseed oil and turpentine, by weight, as you add tinting material.
29. Enameling.—When using enamel as a finish for toys, care should be taken that the surface of the toy is in proper condition. To obtain good results proceed as follows: Give the wood a coat of shellac. Sand lightly and dust. The following coat should consist of part of white paint and one part of the enamel to be used. This coat should be slightly tinted with the finishing color, if the finishing coat is not white. Allow twenty-four hours for drying thoroly; then sand with No. OO sand paper. Next apply a coat of enamel of the color desired for the finished work. (Enamels may be tinted with colors ground in oil.)
Should the enamel not work freely, add a spoonful of benzine to a gallon of enamel. Turpentine may also be used as a thinner for enamel.
A better finish of enamel consists of two coats of paint before applying the enamel. This gives it a stronger body and of course makes it more durable.
Because of its durability and for sanitary reasons enamel is the most desirable finish for toys. Its glossy finish is attractive and very appealing to children.
30. The Dipping Method.—When a considerable quantity of toys is to be finished, the problem to be faced will be the cost of application of the paint rather than the cost of the paint itself. The dipping process, (immersing the material to be covered) is found to be the most successful, especially in toy making, where so many small parts are used.
Many of the small pieces made can be subjected to the dipping process at quite a saving of time and labor, with probably better results than where the application of paint or stain is done with a brush.
The success of the dipping process depends on the arrangement adopted for holding the toys while the actual dipping is done and while they are drying. Here the exercise of a little ingenuity on the part of the students and teacher, will overcome most difficulties.
Supposing that a number of checkers, or handles, or small wheels are to be stained. A dipping frame as shown in Fig. 8 could very easily be prepared. You will notice the screen tray (which is removable), and the tin sheet which slopes towards the container. The small pieces to be stained can be handled in wire baskets with mesh just small enough so that the pieces will not fall thru.
The wire basket is then immersed in the container and worked up and down, so that the liquid will penetrate and touch all pieces. It is then pulled up and swung over the screen tray, where the contents of the wire basket is dumped. Here, the superfluous paint will drip off on the tin sheet, which, because of its slope, will cause the superfluous paint to flow back in to the container. Fig. 9 shows the dipping frame in use.
The screen tray can be removed and placed in a rack to allow for further drying. Several trays could then be made and a rack to hold them could very easily be constructed.
The paint used for dipping purposes must so be prepared that too much does not run off or too much stay on, for this is surely one way to spoil the work. It should be thinned to the right consistency and care should be taken that the thinners used are of the best quality.
Where larger pieces of work are to be dipped, wire attachments could be devised and each part hung separately over the dipping frame until ready to be placed in a rack. If the wireattachment forms a hook on one end, it will be possible to hang up the toy until drained and dried. In removing the toy from the paint it should be drawn out very slowly so that the surface of the paint may be left as smooth as possible.
Where one desires line effects on toys, these may be lined in afterwards with a small size striping brush or sign painter's pencil.
Fig. 8. Dipping frameFig. 8. Dipping frame
Fig. 9. Using the dipping frameFig. 9. Using the dipping frame
31. Polishing by Tumbling.—-Excellent results in polishing large quantities of small pieces, may be obtained by tumbling. The material to be polished should be thoroly dry. The parts are then placed in a tumbler as shown in Fig. 10. Cut up paraffine wax into small pieces, using about one-fourth pound to each tumbler full of toys. Allow these to tumble several hours. This will distribute the wax evenly over the parts and produce a polished surface.
The tumbler as shown in Fig. 10 is turned by hand, altho it could very easily be placed in a lathe, where one is available.
Fig. 10. Tumbler for polishing small piecesFig. 10. Tumbler for polishing small pieces
32. Care of Brushes.—A suitable place should be provided for brushes that are not in use. A tin-lined keeper is recommended. Brushes should be suspended so that their bristles will not touch the bottom of the keeper, and have the liquid in which they are kept come well up over the bristles, so that none of the paint or varnish may dry in the butt of the brush.
33. Paint Application by Means of Compressed Air.—In recent years, great advancement has been made in the application of paint by means of compressed air. The early use of pneumatic painting equipment was confined almost exclusively to the application of finishing materials such as japans, enamels, lacquers, varnishes, etc., on manufactured products. But in the past few years improvements have been made which eliminate all of the difficulties originally experienced and make possible the use of this method for interior and exterior painting, such as buildings, ships, etc.; and at present, a large portion of factory maintenance work is done in this manner. Excessive fumes have been eliminated and all materials can be applied without removing the volatile thinners, solvents, binders, etc., thru air reduction. This is brought about thru the use of low pressure and the perfection of ingenious patent nozzles and other improvements.
34. Uses of Pneumatic Sprayers.—Pneumatic paint sprayers, or air brushes, are extensively used in the manufacture of toys, furniture, automobile bodies, sewing machines, telephones, electrical equipment; in fact, very nearly all manufactured products, as well as on ships, structural steel and iron work, bridges and buildings.
The speed of the air brush is very great compared with hand-brush work. Usually, an air-brush operator will accomplish as much in one hour as a hand or bristle-brush worker will in one day; and it is possible to obtain an even coating, free from sags, runs or brush-marks and better results are obtained than with the hand brush method. A film of paint can be applied in one operation equal to two hand-brush coats, as it is not necessary to reduce paints by thinning as much for air brush application, in a great many instances, as is the usual practice for hand-brushing. The air sprayer can also reach places inaccessible to the hand brush, and a perfect coat can be applied over rough, uneven surfaces, which could not be obtained by hand-brushing.
In considering pneumatic painting equipment, the most important thing to be kept in mind is the proper application of materials. This can be successfully accomplished only thru the use of compressed air at low pressures. By this is meant using only sufficient main-line air to lay the paint, enamel, varnish or whatever finish may be used, on the object. Excessive pressure results in fumes, waste of material and air reduction taking place. By air reduction is meant the removal of the more volatile solvents, thinners, binders, etc., thru evaporation, and the material thus loses its adherent and coherent properties.
Both types of air-brush equipment illustrated here require three cubic feet of air per minute to operate and the pressure necessary depends on the density, consistency or viscosity of the material used. For example, undercoaters, japans, etc.; require from twelve to fifteen pounds of pressure to apply perfectly; while enamels and varnishes take from eighteen to twenty-five pounds. Water stains require about five pounds of pressure.
35. Construction of Pneumatic Painting Outfit.—A pneumatic painting outfit for finishing work consists essentially of an air brush, either of theattached-container type or the gun-type with separate paint tank, and a small compressor of sufficient capacity to operate the air brush, which can be belt-driven from shafting or direct connected. An exhaust hood with fan, for the removal of fumes, is advisable where the operation is reasonably continuous and especially where lacquers are used. The paint, ready for application, is poured into the tank; and the compressed air line leads to the tank with a branch line for air and paint from the tank to the nozzle of the gun type of machine; while only the air line is required with the attached-container type.
The air hose used is 5/16" in diameter while the paint or fluid hose is the same size. The paint hose is made of a special compound to resist the action of the thinners, solvents, etc., used in the paint; and it is important to have this correct, so that the lining will not disintegrate and clog the air brush or gun.
Fig. 11 shows a five-gallon container type. It will be noticed that the fluid connection is nearest the nozzle and that the air connection is at the bottom of the grip.
Fig. 11. A five-gallon air brush outfitFig. 11. A five-gallon air brush outfit
36. Special Attachments for Different Surfaces.—A cone nozzle is furnished for painting irregular surfaces and a fan nozzle for wide, flat work. Adjusting and locking the nozzle regulates the degree of atomization. The jets of the fan nozzle are depressed to prevent being knocked out of alignment. Final regulation of the flow of material is made on the back of the gun, independent of the pressure on the material container. A wide variety of adjustment is possible with this positive regulation.
The first pull on the trigger gives air only, which can be used for dusting ahead of the work; and as the trigger is released, the air valve closes last, which prevents clogging and dripping. When adjustments have been made the trigger action is the only moving part of the machine. Figs. 12 and 13 show the five-gallon container type in actual use.
Fig. 12. Using pneumatic paint sprayersFig. 12. Using pneumatic paint sprayers
Fig. 13. A five-gallon outfit in actual useFig. 13. A five-gallon outfit in actual use
37. Cleaning Pneumatic Machines.—It is not necessary to take the gun apart nor disconnect the hose to clean the machine. Thinner can be run thru the device without loss by placing a small can of reducer of the last material used in the machine, and forcing it thru in the usual manner.
38. Directions for Cleaning Machine.—Close right-hand Air Valve and open release valve. Unscrew air nozzle a few turns. Obstruct outlet with thumb and pull trigger. Spraying pressure is thus forced thru gun and fluid hose and the material backed into the container. It is advisable frequently to run thinner thru the machine as follows: (1) Place small can of thinner in center of container directly beneath fluid tube. (2) Replace cover and tighten wing-nuts. (3) Close left-hand air valve and open right-hand air valve. Pressure on container will force thinner thru the machine and clean perfectly without loss. Do not use spraying pressure in cleaning. The thinner can be used again for either cleaning or thinning purposes.
Fig. 14. Attached container type of sprayerFig. 14. Attached container type of sprayer
39. Directions for Operating Pneumatic Equipment.—
1. Attach main-line air hose to air filter.
2. Attach fluid hose to connection marked "Fluid" on tank and to the front connection near air nozzle on hand-piece.
3. Attach air hose to connection marked "Air" on cover and to the handle connection on hand-piece.
4. Thoroly mix and strain material so that it is entirely free from skins, lumps, and foreign materials.
5. Tighten wing-nuts until paint container is air-tight.
6. See that release valve is closed. Then open right-hand air valve, turn fluid-pressure regulator until gage shows 5 lbs. pressure in container. Pull trigger and use fluid regulatoron gun to control the flow. If material is heavy, increase pressure in container.
7. Open left-hand air valve and turn spraying pressure regulator until sufficient pressure (5 lbs. to 25 lbs.), is obtained to lay the material on.
8. Make final adjustment of the flow of material with fluid regulator on back of hand-piece and get proper spray by adjusting the air nozzle.
9. Spraying pressure and pressure in the container depends upon the density of the material used and the size of the surface to be coated. A little experimenting on the part of the operator will determine the best pressure to use. When the fan nozzle is used, 3 to 5 lbs. more pressure should be applied to the material container and from 5 to 8 lbs. more atomizing or spraying pressure used.
Fig. 14 shows a complete attached container which operates on identically the same principles as the type shown in Fig. 11. It consists of a 1½ pint container, reducing outfit, compressor, and air tank. The 1½ pint container as shown in Fig. 15 is supplied complete with two fluid tips, gasket, agitator tube, cup-holder, hose union, and six feet of air hose.
Fig. 15. A one and one-half pint container and partsFig. 15. A one and one-half pint container and parts
Fig. 16. Reducing outfitFig. 16. Reducing outfit
The reducing outfit in Fig. 16 consists of a regulative valve, an air gage, and an air filter, complete with connections and fittings. This outfit is for the purpose of maintaining an even low spraying pressure.
Regulated pressure is applied to the air-tight material container, raising the coatingmaterial to the nozzle where only sufficient main-line pressure is used to lay the coating on. The spraying pressure necessarily depends on the density, consistency and viscosity of the material used.
For fine finishing work, where the quantity of materials used each day is not great, or where the colors are changed frequently, the attached container type is recommended.
40. Preparing Colors.—The three primary colors are red, blue and yellow. With the three primary colors at hand, almost every variety of color desirable for ordinary use can be easily prepared. Fig. 17 shows a color chart.
Red mixed with yellow will result in orange.
Red mixed with blue will result in purple.
Yellow mixed with blue will result in green.
The colors obtained by mixing any twoprimaries are called secondary colors. Therefor the secondary colors are orange, purple and green.
Orange mixed with purple will result in brown.
Orange mixed with green will result in olive.
Purple mixed with green will result in slate.
The colors obtained by mixing any two secondaries are called tertiary colors.
The tertiary colors are brown, olive and slate.
Of course different tones of each color can be made up by mixing unequal proportions.
Fig. 17. Chart showing proportions required for standard colorsFig. 17. Chart showing proportions required for standard colors
41. Economy in Selecting Material.—Economic use of materials should be encouraged at all times. Toy making offers an excellent opportunity where economy may be taught in the most practical way.
Where toys are to be painted, more than one kind of wood may be used in the same toy and thereby using up small pieces of wood that would otherwise be called scrap. Yet, it is not advisable to sacrifice the strength and durability of the whole toy for the sake of using up a piece of scrap wood which weakens the particular part of the toy where it is used. For that, in the long run, is not economy.
42. Qualities of Different Woods Used.—The following are some of the common woods used in toy making.
Maple: hard, fine grained, compact, tough, used for wheels, axles, handles, dowel rods, etc.
Ash: white, strong, open grained, easily worked; used for bodies of coasters, wheels, axles, oars, etc.
Oak: hard, firm and compact, strong and durable, hard to work.
Birch: moderately hard and heavy, even grained; difficult to split, but easily worked.
Chestnut: resembles oak in appearance, is much softer, moderately hard, course grained, not strong, but durable.
Cypress: moderately hard, very fine and close grained, virtually indestructable; known as "the wood eternal".
Basswood: white, light, soft, tough, closed grained, easily worked, not strong, but durable; used for almost any part of a toy where much strength is not required.
White Pine: very light, soft, close and straight grained, inferior; easy to work.
Yellow Pine, yellowish, grain noticeable, harder than white pine, stronger.
Tulip (yellow poplar): light, soft, close and straight grained; tougher than many woods equally soft, compact, not very strong or durable, easily worked.
Spruce: straight growing, light, straight and even in grain, tough, elastic, easy to work.
43. Value of Jigs and Fixtures.—The use of jigs, fixtures, and other labor-saving devices is an important factor in illustrating industrial and practical applications in the school shop. It is advisable to let each group of boys work out its own jig or fixture for the particular job they have on hand.
The three most common forms of jigs are cutting jigs, boring jigs, and assembling jigs. The important reasons for the use of such devices are: (1) They illustrate the speed of output in shop work. (2) They give the student a good idea of machine operation. (3) They help in making the parts interchangeable. (4) They offer an opportunity for getting first hand information on cutting edge tools and their proper uses. (5) They show the boy the value of the use of jigs in factory work.
The toys illustrated in this book have many simple operations, such as cutting stock to length, drilling holes, surfacing, etc., that can be easily done by the use of the proper fixtures.
For that reason toys are desirable projects to be made by the productive plan. Fig. 18 shows the use of a jig and the miter box.
44. Cutting Small Wheels.—A circle of the desired size wheel may be laid out on the wood with the aid of a compass, and cut in the outline with a coping saw or band saw. Of course, it would take quite a long time by this method to make the small wheels in large quantities and besides the result would not be as good as when the wheels are made by machine.
45. Turning Wheels.—Another way to produce wheels is to turn a cylinder to the required diameter, on the turning lathe. Then cut the cylinder on the circular saw into required thicknesses of wheels desired. This method is recommended for quick work.
Fig. 18. Production of toys by use of jigsFig. 18. Production of toys by use of jigs
Fig. 19. Wheel cutter in useFig. 19. Wheel cutter in use
If it is desired to round the end of wheels the operation can be done by leaving the cylinder in the lathe and applying the broad side of the skew chisel as shown in Fig. 33. The wheels may then be polished with a cloth after they have been sanded and while rotating in the lathe as shown in Fig. 34. In sanding, use first a fairly course grade of sandpaper, No. 1 or 1½ and afterwards a fine grade, No. O or OO. Before applying the cloth the wood may be varnished lightly while the lathe is not running, taking care to wipe off all the surplus varnish. The varnish will assist in giving the surface a fine polish when the cloth is applied. For further explanations of the use of the turning lathe, see Sec. 55.
46. Use of Wheel Cutter.—Still another method of making small wheels is by use of the wheel cutter as shown in Fig. 19. This wheel cutter may be used in the ordinary bit brace. Good results may be obtained where the wheels are made out of thin, soft wood.
This wheel cutter is known on the market as a leather washer cutter. If one cannot be obtained it can easily be made in the school machine shop at a small cost. Fig. 20 shows a drawing of a wheel cutter.
You will notice that the blade can be adjusted to cut any diameter desired.
47. Use of Coping Saw.—Where a band saw is not included in the shop equipment, many articles such as animal forms and small wheels could very easily be cut out with a coping saw.
A saw board, as shown in Fig. 21 should be fastened to a table top with an iron clamp; or, a saw board made to fasten in a vise may also be used.
When cutting out the toy part, the coping saw should be held in a vertical position as shown in Fig. 22, and in an up-and-down motion,with short fast strokes, following the outline carefully. Cut on the line. Do not press hard on the saw for the blade is very thin and can very easily be broken, but it should last a long time if used correctly.
Fig. 20. Details of a wheel cutter which may be made in schoolFig. 20. Details of a wheel cutter which may be made in school
Fig. 21. Clamping the saw board to the benchFig. 21. Clamping the saw board to the benchFig. 22. Correct method of holding coping sawFig. 22. Correct method of holding coping saw
Fig. 21. Clamping the saw board to the benchFig. 21. Clamping the saw board to the bench
Fig. 22. Correct method of holding coping sawFig. 22. Correct method of holding coping saw
Fig. 23. Removing the saw-bladeFig. 23. Removing the saw-blade
48. Cutting Sharp Corners.—When cutting a sharp turn in the wood with the coping saw, care should be taken not to twist the saw blade out of shape. Upon reaching the sharp turn, continue the up-and-down motion, but without doing any cutting; turn the wood very slowly until you have made the complete turn, then continue with the sawing and follow the rest ofthe outline carefully.
49. Removing the Saw-Blade from Frame.—To remove the saw-blade from the frame, place the head of the frame against the table top as shown in Fig. 23. Pressing down on the handle will release the saw-blade. When inserting the blade into the frame the same method may be followed, being careful that the teeth of the saw-blade point toward the handle of the frame. The blade may be put in the end or the side slots of the frame, using the side slots only when the end slots will not serve the purpose.
50. Making Heavy Wheels.—In turning heavier wheels that are to be used for coasters, kiddie cars, etc., the work is done with the head stock only, the wood being supported by the screw-center chuck or face plate.
In turning the wheel the first step is the scraping cut as shown in Fig. 24. This cut is properly made with the concave chisel held in such a position as to give a light scraping cut. Care should be exercised not to allow the chisel to extend too deeply, otherwise the material will chip with the grain.
After the desired circumference has been obtained the surface should be worked to the desired form as shown in Fig. 25. This is accomplished by using the lathe rest, set at right angles with the bed or parallel with the face plate. The illustration in Fig. 26 shows the use of the dividers in marking off the position of the various corrugations in the wheel that is being turned. The sanding should be done whilethe wheel is in the lathe. Use first a fairly course grade of sand paper and afterwards a fine grade, No. O or OO.
51. Designs for Wheels.—Suggestions for wooden toy wheels are shown in Fig. 27. Those numbered 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, and 7 are plain wooden wheels varying in design only. No. 8 and 9 are re-enforced with zinc and large iron washers. No. 10 shows a segment of an iron pipe fitted in the center of the wheel to prevent wearing away of material. No. 11 shows a spoke wheel. The spokes are made of dowel rods; these fitting into a hub that can easily be turned out on the lathe. No. 13 shows a wheel built in segments which is then cut out on the band saw to resemble a standard spoke wheel. The rim is 1/8" steel, fastened to spokes with very small rivets.
Fig. 24. Making heavy wheels. The scraping cutFig. 24. Making heavy wheels. The scraping cut
52. Cutting Wheels on Band-Saw.—A circle of the required size wheel may be marked off on the wood with a compass, then cut in the outline on the band-saw. This method will leave square corners and will be more or less out of truth with the center of the wheel. To true up and smooth the outside of the wheel the lathe attachment as shown in Fig. 28 can be easily prepared. This attachment consists of a blockAfastened to the lathe bed with a single bolt, and a stopBfastened to the upper face of the blockA. The carriageCis a loose piece the same thickness as the stopBand is provided with a dowel rod to fit the central hole in the wheel. This dowel rod is so located that when the edge of the carriageCis tight against the edge of the stopD, the distance from the center of the dowel rod to the face of the abrasive material on the disk, will be equal to the radius of the finished wheel.
The wood is cut out on the band saw a scant 1/16" over-size in diameter, and is then placed on the dowel rod in the carriageCwhich is held flat on blockAwhile the edge of the blank is brought in contact with the grinding disc face by pushing the carriage forward with the left hand while the blank is slowly revolved with the right. This grinding is continued until the edges of stopBand carriageCwill remain in contact during a complete revolution of the wheel blank. During this grinding process, the carriage should be moved back and forth from the edge to the center of the grinding disc so that the wear on the abrasive material may be equalized.
Fig. 25. Smoothing the side of wheelsFig. 25. Smoothing the side of wheelsFig. 26. Using dividers to mark for cutsFig. 26. Using dividers to mark for cuts
Fig. 25. Smoothing the side of wheelsFig. 25. Smoothing the side of wheels
Fig. 26. Using dividers to mark for cutsFig. 26. Using dividers to mark for cuts
A similar device used for chamfering the edges of the blanks is also shown in Fig. 28, as it looks when viewed from the front of the lathe. The preceding description will suffice for this as the same system of lettering has been used. It differs only in that blockAis made to set at an angle of 45 degrees instead of being level.
Fig. 27. Many ways of making wheels for toysFig. 27. Many ways of making wheels for toys
Fig. 28. Simple attachments which may be made for latheFig. 28. Simple attachments which may be made for lathe
Grinding discs may be made either of metal or wood. Metal is preferable but a hardwood disc fastened to a metal face plate will answer very well. There are many methods of fastening the abrasing material to the disc but the most convenient way is by the use of stick belt dressing. The disc is coated with dressing by holding the stick against it as it revolves and the abrasive is applied before the dressing has set. A pair of dividers or trammels is used to cut the abrasive material to the same diameter as the disc and it should be warmed on the uncoated side before it is applied. It sticks tightly to the disc but is easily removed and replaced with fresh material in a few minutes.
53. Boring Holes in Wheels.—The center holes in wheels may be bored with bit and brace, but better results are obtained if the holes are bored in the lathe. A drill chuck fitted to the live spindle and a drilling pad for the tail stock spindle will be required to do this job efficiently. The tail stock is locked fast and the wheel to be drilled is placed against the drilling pad and fed up to the revolving bit by turning the tail spindle feed wheel. This method will produce a cleaner hole and one that is square with the wheel face.
54. Importance of Machine Operations.—A fair understanding of what is the correct position to take at some of the principal machines such as the lathe, universal saw, jointer, and sander, is very important to the student in the wood-working department. Such knowledge is of special importance to the one engaged in toy making, where every knowledge of use of machines, is put to the test.
Fig. 29. The roughing cutFig. 29. The roughing cutFig. 30. The sizing cutFig. 30. The sizing cut
Fig. 29. The roughing cutFig. 29. The roughing cut
Fig. 30. The sizing cutFig. 30. The sizing cut
Sufficient examples are given to enable the student to arrive at a fair understanding of the correct postures.
55. Operating the Lathe.—The lathe is perhaps one of the most important machines used in toy making. It lends itself to unlimited varieties of work and for that reason is really indispensible in the shop.
In Fig. 29 the student is preparing to take theroughing cutin turning a cylinder. This operation consists of removing the corners of the square piece and is done with the tool known as thegouge.
After the roughing cut has been taken, calipers set to the diameter desired will determine the depth of the next cut,sizing cut. The illustration in Fig. 30 shows the student performing this operation with thecut-off tool.
Fig. 31. The paring cutFig. 31. The paring cutFig. 32. Using the cut-off toolFig. 32. Using the cut-off tool
Fig. 31. The paring cutFig. 31. The paring cut
Fig. 32. Using the cut-off toolFig. 32. Using the cut-off tool
When the correct dimension has been found, the next step in the process of turning a cylinder is theparing cutor finishing cut, Fig. 31. This is done with theskeworbevel chisel. A very thin shaving is removed by this operation.
The ends are then cut by using the cut-off tool as shown in Fig. 32. It is merely taking a slice off the end. If a very thin slice is to be removed, it is usually made by the long point of the skew chisel. If it is more than a quarter of an inch it should besizedand then removed by the skew.
If it is desired to round the end of a piece or to produce a convex surface the operation can be done by applying the broad side of the skew chisel, as in Fig. 33.
56. Face Plate Turning.—The preceding paragraphs describe the process of turning when the piece is supported between the live and the dead centers. The processes shown in Figs. 24, 25 and 26, illustrate the character of the work done with the head stock only when the piece is supported by the screw-center chuck or face plate.
Fig. 33. Making convex surfacesFig. 33. Making convex surfacesFig. 34. Polishing wood in latheFig. 34. Polishing wood in lathe
Fig. 33. Making convex surfacesFig. 33. Making convex surfaces
Fig. 34. Polishing wood in latheFig. 34. Polishing wood in lathe
The first step in face plate turning is thescraping cut, Fig. 24. This cut is properly made with the concave chisel held in such a position as to give a light scraping cut. Care should be exercised not to allow the chisel to extend too deeply, otherwise the material will chip with the grain. After the desired circumference has been obtained the surface should be smoothed with the skew chisel.
Fig. 35. Cutting off stockFig. 35. Cutting off stockFig. 36. Fluting on circular sawFig. 36. Fluting on circular saw
Fig. 35. Cutting off stockFig. 35. Cutting off stock
Fig. 36. Fluting on circular sawFig. 36. Fluting on circular saw
Fig. 25 shows the student modeling a rosette, using the rest, set at right angles with the bed or parallel with the face plate. Prior to the modeling a shearing cut should be taken withthe skew chisel to face off the material to an even surface.
The illustration in Fig. 26 shows the use of the dividers. The student is marking off to a uniform scale the position of the various corrugations in the rosette he is turning.
57. The Universal Saw.—The operations that can be performed on the universal saw are so many that no attempt will be made to illustrate them all here. But enough are given to show the characteristic operations involved in cross-cutting, ripping, and dadoing,—the three basic uses of a circular saw.
Fig. 37. Cutting with special fenceFig. 37. Cutting with special fenceFig. 38. Grooving, or ripping special workFig. 38. Grooving, or ripping special work
Fig. 37. Cutting with special fenceFig. 37. Cutting with special fence
Fig. 38. Grooving, or ripping special workFig. 38. Grooving, or ripping special work
It is a more dangerous tool than the lathe and the guard should be kept over the saw at all times, except of course, in dadoing when it can not be used.
Figs. 35, 36, 37, 38, 39, illustrate the basic uses of a circular saw.