CHAPTER XVIII.
The coffin—A pasha's death—Horse-dealing—The postman—Brigands—An hotel bill—Down the Bojana—Dulcigno—Pirates—Farewell.
We spent these last three days in purchasing arms and other curiosities. Between us we collected a very arsenal of strange weapons of every kind. A carpenter at the bazaar constructed a box for us in which to pack them. This box was about six feet in length, and somewhat more than two feet in breadth. It looked uncommonly like a coffin. The ever-ingenious Robinson, when it arrived at Toshli's spent a whole evening in painting a ghastly-looking mummy on the cover, and other horrible ornaments on its sides. As may be imagined, it created some interest on our journey.
The day after our return to Scutari the pasha very suddenly died, whereupon the whole city rejoiced much and openly, and indulged in more raki than was good for it.
The doctors attributed his decease to apoplexy. It seems he had drunk a cup of coffee, when suddenly he complained of intense pain, and vomited. In ten minutes he was no more. Turkish pashas are strangely subject to this curious and fatal illness, which, in nearly all cases, follows the drinking of a cup of coffee or sherbet.
Perhaps it is in consequence of the well-known antipathy between these beverages and the pashaic stomach that so many of these distinguished men have taken to Veuve Cliquot, notwithstanding the Koran's strict ordinance. No one in Scutari for a moment doubted that poison was the true cause of the mysterious complaint. Of course there was no post-mortem. The Mussulman has a superstitious objection to any mutilation of the human body, in life or death.
Our faithful companions, Rosso and Effendi, had next to be sold. We marched them up and down the bazaar day after day, Marco loudly dilating on their many virtues. No one seemed very anxious to purchase at our price. The dealer who had sold us Rosso offered us one-fifth of the sum we had paid for him originally. Yet we had decidedly improved the animal's condition.
At last we managed to sell Effendi to the Austrian consul. But Rosso hung on our hands to the very morning of our departure. No one would have him at any price, even his original owner retracted his offer. Should we be obliged to leave the poor animal a homeless vagabond, to wander about the streets of Scutari in search of a master, begging for crusts to keep life within those pathetic ribs? It seemed like it.
Brown, in despair, wandered through the alleys of the bazaar, eagerly informing the merchants that he had a red horse for sale.
"Rosso Vendetta," as he expressed it, which, if it means anything, means a sanguinary blood-feud. The quiet Christian merchants must have imagined that the Englishman was running amuck, and was about to slaughter them all.
At the last moment the khanji of the khan where Rosso was lodged and fed came to us, and offered us 200 piastres—about 30s.—for our noble steed. We had to accept it, for the animal was hardly worth taking to England with us.
It was a bright sunny morning when we bid a final adieu to our numerous friends at Scutari, and started for the coast. We had sent the coffin and our other baggage on in advance, on the backs of the mules of the British consulate postman. There is no post-office or postal service of any kind in North Albania, so letters are sent to the coast in this way, to be taken up by the passing steamers.
The office of letter-carrier is of some importance in this country, for it is in the gift of the government, the carriers having the monopoly of the transport of all goods from town to town. As there are no roads, and hence no carts in North Albania, everything has to be carried on the backs of horses or mules; this of course accounts for the very high prices of all imported goods.
Each carrier owns some twenty horses, and his calling would be an exceedingly lucrative one were it not for the heavy black-mail levied on him by the brigands.
The carrier to Dulcigno to whom we had entrusted our baggage, had, we were told, been stopped on his road three times within the last few months.
The whole business is managed very quietly. On some lonely portion of the way, a picturesque gentleman, armed to the teeth, suddenly appears, and in few words persuades the drivers to deliver up their charge. These in a philosophically resigned manner accept their ill-luck; discussion they know would be useless, as the muzzles of several long Albanian guns peep ominously from the rocks above.
We paid Toshli's bill, which was quite a curiosity in its way.
Our landlord had been to some conventual school in his youth, and had acquired the rudiments of the classic tongues. He now utilized his knowledge, by setting down the many items of his account in what he imagined was Latin.
Occasionally, where his memory of that language failed him, he would put down the name of some comestible in Greek.
He must have taken great trouble in the composition of this document; he came up with it smiling, evidently very proud of it, and remarked that as we did not understand Albanian, he had done his best to make it intelligible for us.
The total looked enormous, calculated as it was in piastres, more like a national debt than an hotel bill. We shuddered as we contemplated the four figures of the total. However, a little calculation showed us that we were not about to be burdened with an impossible debt, which might keep us here in pawn for the rest of our days.
The port of Dulcigno is situated half a day's march north of the mouth of the Bojana, the river that takes off the waters of the Lake of Scutari to the sea.
The pleasantest way of making the journey, we were told, was to descend the river by boat to a certain bend near the sea, and thence go on on foot.
We accordingly hired a londra which lay alongside the quay by the bazaar.
Our landlords, the Boulem-Bashi of Klementi, and some of our other friends, came to see us off. After a good deal of hand shaking the four Englishmen, Marco, Dick Deadeye, and two Albanian boatmen, embarked, and we were soon descending the river on the top of a strong current.
It would be a very good speculation to run a small steamer to Scutari.
The navigation of the Bojana is easy, and the imports into Scutari from abroad are considerable. But I suppose this would be an infringement of the monopoly granted to the carriers; and it will be long ere the authorities perceive the advantages of this mode of transport over the slow, expensive, and dangerous carriage on the backs of mules and horses, across a land unprovided with roads.
Dick Deadeye was in a very melancholy state of mind during this voyage. He lost his appetite, and grumbled to himself a good deal.
He had before this descended the Bojana with Frankish friends, and knew that there was a great water further on, associated in his mind with partings and sorrow; for whenever his companions reached its shores, they would go away from him in a big londra, never to return.
He looked very plaintively at us all the day, for he knew that the cruel old story was to be repeated.
Early in the afternoon we reached the bend in the river that had been described to us, so once more shouldered our guns and commenced our march. Our way lay across a flat country covered with a dense jungle of thorn. The road was if possible more abominable than any other we had met with during our whole journey.
It was not till late at night that we reached Dulcigno, and took up our quarters in a dirty little khan, for this port possesses no such thing as an hotel. We cooked some beef, and after a good supper retired to a hay-loft, where we were able to make ourselves very comfortable for the night.
The next morning we were able to inspect Dulcigno. A very picturesque little place it is, built at the foot of a fine valley, which opens on the sea. There is no harbour, properly speaking—merely an unprotected roadstead. We were told that the Austrian Lloyd's steamers did not touch here now, but anchored off a valley some two hours further north, where there was better shelter. When the wind blows strong on shore, the steamer cannot touch even there.
Dulcigno is a town of about 6000 inhabitants. These are for the most part Mussulmen. They have a peculiarly ferocious look, and seem to have little occupation.
Dulcigno was once a prosperous place, for many a ship was here launched and equipped for piratical purposes. Her sailors were renowned as being the bravest and most ferocious buccaneers of the Mediterranean. We have now come to look upon piracy as such an extinct profession, in the Mediterranean at least, that it seems strange to remember that it is, after all, but a few years since this was the ostensible occupation of the whole population of this coast. Many of the discontented, wild-looking fishermen we saw mending their nets on the shingle beach well remembered the good old times, and had themselves taken a part in seizing some stately Italian schooner, or bright-coloured Dalmatian felucca. We found the carrier and his string of horses just starting for the spot off which the Austrian Lloyd anchors, to unload or take on board goods for and from Scutari. As several of the horses were without burdens, we were able to ride. The road from Dulcigno to the little bay to which we were bound was across the most fertile and cultivated country we had yet seen in Albania. We passed through very forests of olives; groves of oranges covered the steep hills that sloped down to the calm Adriatic; pretty white houses, built in the Italian style, were seen rising from the groves; and the people we met on the way had a prosperous look about them, which astonished us, and reminded us that we were approaching civilization.
At last we came on a valley whose slopes were entirely covered with olives. At the foot of this valley, the two hills that formed it projected into the sea, terminating in precipitous cliffs, thus forming a little shingle-fringed bay. This was our destination. By the shore were pitched three or four tents, where were encamped a body of soldiers—I presume, on coast-guard duty; for their officer had rather a queer discussion with Marco as to the contents of our coffin. He wished to have it opened. Marco indignantly refused to allow anything of the sort to be done. "They are Englishmen," he said. This, he thought, was a sufficient explanation. The good fellow had one definite and fixed idea, at any rate, on the subject of Englishmen. He considered that they were a worthy and eccentric people, who had no country of their own, but who, by divine right, were entitled to do exactly what they liked in any country, not being subject to any laws whatever. This idea, I have found, is shared with him by many of my travelling countrymen.
There was a shrill whistle, and the steamer suddenly appeared round the southern point.
We placed our baggage in a boat, bid adieu to Marco, who kissed our hands over and over again, and wept to see us go; enjoined him to see Dick Deadeye safely back to Scutari—and embarked. Poor Dick Deadeye was inconsolable. It required Marco and two soldiers to hold him back from jumping into the boat after us. The wailings of the poor old dog were most pathetic.
I suppose that he is now vagabondizing about the capital once more, philosophizing on the inconstancy of human friendship. By this time, probably, he has re-attached himself to his old friends the frontier commissioners, who, I believe, were to renew their labours this May. Our general appearance, our baggage, especially the coffin with its painted lid, caused some amusement on the steamer.
I will not enter into the incidents of our return journey. For seven days we steamed along the wild coast, and among the rocky islands, till we reached Trieste, whence we took train for Calais, and so back to London. It was just after that heavy snowstorm that extended over nearly half of Europe.
From Trieste to London the whole country was deeply buried. At Venice the snow was two feet deep. In Paris all traffic had been stopped. London was little better.
And now I must bid farewell to those that have followed me thus far; and to those that seek a tourist-unexplored, not over-inaccessible country, for a summer tour, let me strongly recommend these interesting lands of ancient Illyria.
FINIS.
LONDON:GILBERT AND RIVINGTON, PRINTERS,ST. JOHN'S SQUARE.
A Catalogue of American and Foreign Books Published orImported byMessrs. Sampson Low & Co.canbe had on application.
Crown Buildings, 188, Fleet Street, London,April, 1880.
A Selection from the list of Books
PUBLISHED BY
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ALPHABETICAL LIST.
A Classified Educational Catalogue of Workspublished in Great Britain. Demy 8vo, cloth extra. Second Edition, revised and corrected to Christmas, 1879, 5s.
About (Edmond).See"The Story of an Honest Man."
About Some Fellows.By anEton Boy, Author of "A Day of my Life." Cloth limp, square 16mo, 2s.6d.
Adventures of Captain Mago.A Phœnician's Explorations 1000 yearsB.C.ByLeon Cahun. Numerous Illustrations. Crown 8vo, cloth extra, gilt edges, 7s.6d.; plainer binding, 5s.
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Asiatic Turkey: being a Narrative of a Journey from Bombay to the Bosphorus. ByGrattan Geary, Editor of theTimes of India. 2 vols., crown 8vo, cloth extra, with many Illustrations, and a Route Map, 28s.
Australian Abroad (The). Branches from the Main Routes Round the World.Comprising the Author's Route through Japan, China, Cochin-China, Malasia, Sunda, Java, Torres Straits, Northern Australia, New South Wales, South Australia, and New Zealand. ByJames Hingston("J. H." of theMelbourne Argus). With Maps and numerous Illustrations from Photographs. 2 vols., 8vo, 14s.each.
Autobiography of Sir G. Gilbert Scott, R.A., F.S.A., &c.Edited by his Son,G. Gilbert Scott. With an Introduction by theDean of Chichester, and a Funeral Sermon, preached in Westminster Abbey, by theDean of Westminster. Also, Portrait on steel from the portrait of the Author byG. Richmond, R.A. 1 vol., demy 8vo, cloth extra, 18s.
Baker (Lieut.-Gen. Valentine, Pasha).See"War in Bulgaria."
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Comprising Pleasure Books of Literature produced in the Choicest Style as Companionable Volumes at Home and Abroad.
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The Story of the Chevalier Bayard.ByM. De Berville.
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Table-Talk and Opinions of Napoleon Buonaparte.
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Words of Wellington: Maxims and Opinions of the Great Duke.
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Hazlitt's Round Table.With Biographical Introduction.
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Ballad Poetry of the Affections.ByRobert Buchanan.
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Boy's Froissart (The).7s.6d.See"Froissart."
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Brave Men in Action.ByS. J. Mackenna. Crown 8vo, 480 pp., cloth, 10s.6d.
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Breton Folk: An Artistic Tour in Brittany.ByHenry Blackburn, Author of "Artists and Arabs," "Normandy Picturesque," &c. With 171 Illustrations byRandolph Caldecott. Imperial 8vo, cloth extra, gilt edges, 21s.
British Goblins: Welsh Folk-Lore, Fairy Mythology, Legends, and Traditions.ByWirt Skyes, United States Consul for Wales. With Illustrations byJ. H. Thomas. This account of the Fairy Mythology and Folk-Lore of his Principality is, by permission, dedicated to H.R.H. the Prince of Wales. Second Edition. 8vo, 18s.
British Philosophers.
Buckle (Henry Thomas) The Life and Writings of.ByAlfred Henry Huth. With Portrait. 2 vols., demy 8vo.
Burnaby (Capt.)See"On Horseback."
Burnham Beeches (Heath, F. G.).With numerous Illustrations and a Map. Crown 8vo, cloth, gilt edges, 3s.6d.Second Edition.
"Writing with even more than his usual brilliancy, Mr.Heathhere gives the public an interesting monograph of the splendid old trees…. This charming little work."—Globe.
Butler (W. F.) The Great Lone Land; an Account of the Red River Expedition, 1869-70.With Illustrations and Map. Fifth and Cheaper Edition, crown 8vo, Cloth extra, 7s.6d.
——The Wild North Land; the Story of a Winter Journey with Dogs across Northern North America.Demy 8vo, cloth, with numerous Woodcuts and a Map, 4th Edition, 18s.Cr. 8vo, 7s.6d.
——Akim-foo: the History of a Failure.Demy 8vo, cloth, 2nd Edition, 16s.Also, in crown 8vo, 7s.6d.
Cadogan (Lady A.) Illustrated Games of Patience.Twenty-four Diagrams in Colours, with Descriptive Text. Foolscap 4to, cloth extra, gilt edges; 3rd Edition, 12s.6d.
Caldecott (R.).See"Breton Folk."
Carbon Process (A Manual of).SeeLiesegang.
Ceramic Art.SeeJacquemart.
Changed Cross (The), and other Religious Poems. 16mo, 2s.6d.
Chant Book Companion to the Book of Common Prayer.Consisting of upwards of 550 Chants for the Daily Psalms and for the Canticles; also Kyrie Eleisons, and Music for the Hymns in Holy Communion, &c. Compiled and Arranged under the Musical Editorship ofC. J. Vincent, Mus. Bac. Crown 8vo, 2s.6d.; Organist's Edition, fcap. 4to, 5s.
Of various Editions ofHymnal Companion, Lists will be forwarded on application.
Child of the Cavern (The); or, Strange Doings Underground.ByJules Verne. Translated byW. H. G. Kingston. Numerous Illustrations. Sq. cr. 8vo, gilt edges, 7s.6d.; cl., plain edges, 5s.
Child's Play, with 16 Coloured Drawings by E. V. B. Printed on thick paper, with tints, 7s.6d.
——New.By E. V. B. Similar to the above.SeeNew.
Children's Lives and How to Preserve Them; or, The Nursery Handbook.ByW. Lomas, M.D. Crown 8vo, cloth, 5s.
Children's Magazine.Illustrated.SeeSt. Nicholas.
Choice Editions of Choice Books.2s.6d.each, Illustrated byC. W. Cope, R.A.,T. Creswick, R.A.,E. Duncan,Birket Foster,J. C. Horsley, A.R.A.,G. Hicks,R. Redgrave, R.A.,C. Stonehouse,F. Tayler,G. Thomas,H. J. Townshend,E. H. Wehnert,Harrison Weir, &c.
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Christ in Song.By Dr.Philip Schaff. A New Edition, Revised, cloth, gilt edges, 6s.
Cobbett (William).A Biography. ByEdward Smith. 2 vols., crown 8vo, 25s.
Comedy (The) of Europe, 1860-1890. A retrospective and prospective Sketch. Crown 8vo, 6s.
Conflict of Christianity with Heathenism.By Dr.Gerhard Uhlhorn. Edited and Translated from the Third German Edition byG. C. SmythandC. J. H. Ropes. 8vo, cloth extra, 10s.6d.
Continental Tour of Eight Days for Forty-four Shillings.By aJourney-man. 12mo, 1s.
"The book is simply delightful."—Spectator.
Corea (The).See"Forbidden Land."
Covert Side Sketches: Thoughts on Hunting, with Different Packs in Different Countries.ByJ. Nevitt Fitt(H.H. of theSporting Gazette, late of theField). 2nd Edition. Crown 8vo, cloth, 10s.6d.
Crade-Land of Arts and Creeds; or, Nothing New under the Sun.ByCharles J. Stone, Barrister-at-law, and late Advocate, High Courts, Bombay, 8vo, pp. 420, cloth, 14s.
Cripps the Carrier.3rd Edition, 6s.SeeBlackmore.
Cruise of H.M.S. "Challenger" (The).ByW. J. J. Spry, R.N. With Route Map and many Illustrations. 6th Edition, demy 8vo, cloth, 18s.Cheap Edition, crown 8vo, some of the Illustrations, 7s.6d.
Curious Adventures of a Field Cricket.By Dr.Ernest Candèze. Translated byN. D'anvers. With numerous fine Illustrations. Crown 8vo, cloth extra, gilt edges, 7s.6d.
Dana (R. H.)Two Years before the Mast and Twenty-Four years After.Revised Edition with Notes, 12mo, 6s.
Daughter (A) of Heth.ByW. Black. Crown 8vo, 6s.
Day of My Life (A); or, Every Day Experiences at Eton.By anEton Boy, Author of "About Some Fellows." 16mo, cloth extra, 2s.6d.6th Thousand.
Day out of the Life of a Little Maiden (A): Six Studies from Life.ByShererandEngler. Large 4to, in portfolio, 5s.
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Eight Cousins.SeeAlcott.
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Elinor Dryden.By Mrs.Macquoid. Crown 8vo, 6s.
Embroidery (Handbook of).ByL. Higgin. Edited byLady Marian Alford, and published by authority of the Royal School of Art Needlework. With 16 page Illustrations, Designs for Borders, &c. Crown 8vo, 5s.
English Catalogue of Books (The).Published during 1863 to 1871 inclusive, comprising also important American Publications. 30s.
asterismOf the previous Volume, 1835 to 1862, very few remain on sale; as also of the Index Volume, 1837 to 1857.
——Supplements, 1863, 1864, 1865, 3s6d.each; 1866 to 1880, 5s.each.
English Writers, Chapters for Self-Improvement in English Literature. By the Author of "The Gentle Life," 6s.; smaller edition, 2s.6d.
English Philosophers.A Series of Volumes containing short biographies of the most celebrated English Philosophers, designed to direct the reader to the sources of more detailed and extensive criticism than the size and nature of the books in this Series would permit. Though not issued in chronological order, the series will, when complete, constitute a comprehensive history of English Philosophy. Two Volumes will be issued simultaneously at brief intervals, in square 16mo, price 2s.6d.
The following are already arranged:—
Erchomenon; or, The Republic of Materialism.Small post 8vo, cloth, 5s.
Erema; or, My Father's Sin.SeeBlackmore.
Eton.See"Day of my Life," "Out of School," "About Some Fellows."
Evans (C.) Over the Hills and Far Away.ByC. Evans. One Volume, crown 8vo, cloth extra, 10s.6d.
——A Strange Friendship.Crown 8vo, cloth, 5s.