TheCammel-Sheep.
There are in this Countrey both tame and wild Sheep; the tame ones are call’dCammel-Sheep, being cover’d with long fine Wool, having Necks four Foot long, their fore Feet cloven into four parts, their hindermost into two, their Mouths very wide, which they open at those that vex them, and make such a stink, that no body is able to abide near them; when tir’d, they fall under their Burdens, and will not rise, though beaten never no much: Their Flesh is tough like that of Horses. The wild Mountain-Sheep are red, and have soft glossy Wool, which makes a Stuff like that of a Chamlet: These Sheep run swifter than a Horse; theChileseslead them by a Rope put through their Ears.
The GrainTeca.
This Countrey ofChilinot onely produces Wheat, Barley,Maiz, and all manner of Fruit, but also theTeca, which growing half a Yard high, is not unlike Barley; the Grain thereof being dry’d in the Sun, is thresh’d, and parch’d in hot Sand, then ground on a square flat Stone with a round Rowler. This Meal, which is both exceeding wholsom and very nourishing (for a small Measure thereof sufficeth a Man a whole Week,) serves also both for Meat and Drink: for being infus’d in a greater quantity of Water, it becomes a pleasant Drink, and kneaded with a lesser proportion, it is made into Cakes or Loaves.
The FruitUnni.
The FruitUnni, by theSpaniardscall’dMurtilla, is like a little red Grape, and hath a tart taste. The Wine press’d out of this Fruit is clear to the Eye, pleasing to the Palate, and good for the Stomach, never causing any Head-ache: It also makes good Vinegar.
But the chiefest Benefit ofChiliis the rich Gold-Mines. The Countrey for the most part lies desolate, occasion’d by the continual Wars which the valiant PeopleAraucomaintain’d against theSpaniardsafter such a manner, that in no place ofAmericathey met with such resistance, or sustain’d such Losses. They speak an elegant Language, according to the testimony ofElias Herkmans, who having committed to Writing all the most significant Words thereof which were taught him by theChileses, it will not be altogether amiss to set down some of them, which are these following:
A View of the Chilesian Language.
The Seamen who went underHendrick Brewer’s Command,Anno 1643.fromBrasiletoChili, brought the fore-mention’d Vocabulary along with them.
Chiliis look’d upon as no way inferior to any Countrey inAmerica, enjoying a wholsom Air, fruitful Soil, and abundance of Inhabitants, who often furnishPeruwith Provisions; which are the speedier convey’d thither, because the South-Winds always blow along the Coast.
ThePeruvianVice-Roy keeps a Deputy to Govern here. It hath two Bishopricks,viz.St.JagoandL’ Imperial.
The Nature, Customs, and Manners of theChileses.
Some of theChilesesare under theSpaniardsJurisdiction, and live in Huts; others being wilder, defend their Freedom with the Sword. They have great Heads and flat Noses: The Men continually pull out the Hair on their Faces and Privities with Shells, which they carry about their Necks for that purpose, having beforehand rubb’d the Hair with warm Ashes; the Hair of their Heads hanging downwards is cut close as far as their Ears, the rest growing long, is ty’d with the RibbonTariwelonco, to which Persons of Quality fix Silver Plates andTurkoises: Some also cover their Heads with the Skins of Weazels, or the like Beasts, putting the Head over their Foreheads, and the Tail down their Neck; which kind of Covering they callManiewelonco: Others wear Caps made after some strange manner or other.
TheChilesesare not the tallest, but strong and well set, betwixt a white and sallow colour: Those that are in theSpaniardsService, wear long Hair, by which they are distinguish’d from the shornUcais, who do theSpaniardsall the mischief imaginable. The Women are for the most part low of stature, but of a strong Constitution, they go bare-headed, letting their Hair hang loose over their Shoulders, except when they are indispos’d, and then they tie it up: But those that dwell aboutCastrowear Locks like ourEnglishLadies. InCoquimboandLoquimbothey go after the same manner as thePeruvianWomen: All of them have thick black Hair.
Their Apparel, though mean, is neat: The Men wear wide Breeches girt about their Wastes, and a piece of woollen Cloth, three Yards long and two broad, whichhaving a Hole in the middle, they put over their Heads, and so let it hang on their Shoulders, leaving their Arms and Legs bare; but on Festival Days they wear curious embroider’d Stockings. The Women likewise cover themselves with the same piece of Cloth, but after another manner, tying it first about their Middle, then let it down to the Ground, pinn’d before with Silver or Golden Pins; their Heads, Breasts and Legs are uncover’d; the Cloth it self is strip’d with red, white, blue, and yellow, and fring’d at the edges. For an Example of their quick and easie Labor,Hendrick Brewerrelates, That a Woman being Deliver’d in his Ship, within an hour after walk’d up and down the Deck, and gave the Child suck. Some of them have such great Breasts, that throwing them over their Shoulders they suckle their Children, being ty’d at their Backs.
Their Huts being low, are made of Straw, Canes, and Boughs, and not built for one single Family; for often thirty, fifty, a hundred, or a hundred and twenty dwell under one Roof, and have a Governor, by them call’dCaruca.
Their Housholdstuff is little and mean,viz.two or three Cans to keep their LiquorChicain, Horn Cups, a Stone whereon they grind their Corn, and one or two woodden Stools: The chiefest of them also use Sheep-skins, which they spread on the Ground before their Guests. They live without care, for they neither Sowe nor Plant any more than will serve them a Year.
Their Riches consist in Cattel, of which they have no great plenty.
About the beginning ofOctobera whole Town meets together to Plough and to Sowe, which the Men perform in two days time, the rest of the Work being left to the care of the Women; for the Men never meddle with Reaping or Harvest.
They eat and drink from Morning to Evening, when they do not travel, for then they eat at set-times. Their Liquor is made of Barley-Meal, or Wheat boyl’d in Water. On Festival Days they drinkChica, Brew’d ofMaizchew’d by the Teeth of old Women. They likewise make a Liquor of the FruitUnni, which tastes likeMaderaWine.
Their Marriages.
Every Man Marries as many Wives as he can buy and maintain, for Maids and Widows must be sold by the Parents, who set not a Price upon them according to their Beauty or Quality, but their skill in managing Houshold Affairs. Their Marriages are perform’d after a strange manner: A Son having no Inheritance, lives on the Charity of his nearest Relations, who Present him, one with a Hog, another with a Cow, a third with a Sheep, and a fourth with somewhat else: thus enrich’d, he goes to his Mistresses Father, and hangs someTurkoisesand Plates of Silver about his Neck, and acquainting him with what Estate he can make his Wife, he agrees as well as he can with his intended Father-in-law, to whom he gives ten, fifty, or a hundred Sheep, Oxen, Cows, Hogs, Horses, Poultrey, a Coat, and some Vessels full ofChica; which done, the Father leads his Daughter to the Bridegroom’s House, where he is Entertain’d with Meat, but finds the Drink at his own Cost. Some days after the Celebration of the Wedding, the nearest Relations come to congratulate the young Marry’d Woman, and at Dinner sing anEpithalamiumto their Nuptial DeityMaruapeante, all of them sitting on the Ground on Sheep-skins. The Allies often take away a Woman from her Husband, especially when he misuses her; and if a Man kill his Wife, her Death is reveng’d by her Relations. Persons of Quality build a Hut for every one of their Wives, sending word to her whom they have a mind to enjoy: They respect one above the rest, who are in a manner but Slavesses, being forc’d to do all the Drudgery. The Men are exceeding jealous and chollerick, cruelly beating their Wives, if they chance but to look on another Man; and if they take them in the Act of Adultery, they immediatelykill them; yet for all this they are not Chaste, but very Libidinous. As soon as a Woman is Deliver’d of a Child, she washes her self and the Child in cold Water; then kills a Lamb call’dChiluraque, makes a Feast; at which she her self eats and drinks freely amongst the rest, and the next day goes about her usual Employment.
TheSpaniardstell us, that their Women, if they continue long in this Countrey, are more and more hardned by the Air, and are as little concern’d at the Birth of a Child as the Natives.
A Widow hath free leave to Marry again, provided she hath given to her Children part of what she hath; but if she Marry not, but return to her Parents, then she is highly esteem’d of.
Both Men and Women wash themselves in the Rivers in the coldest Weather.
Their Religion, and manner of burying their Dead.
They adore chiefly their DeityPillan, and the Devil, who doth them much hurt. They acknowledge no Resurrection, accounting long Life in this World the greatest Good; wherefore when any one dies, the Friends and Relations make a doleful Cry, and suffer the dead Body to lie three, nay, four Moneths before they bury them, stuffing them full of strong smelling Herbs, to keep them from putrifying: Three days before their Interrment the nearest Allies meet, kill a Sheep, make Merry, and throw the Body into a Hole near the Hut in which the Deceased dwelt, putting also a piece of the slain Sheep, and a Jug full of the LiquorChica, into the Grave.
Concerning their IdolPillan, to whom with strange Gestures they Sing divers Songs, they believe that he is a Spirit of the Air, and Governs all things on Earth. Some suppose him to be Thunder, and therefore they worship him in a most particular manner when they hear it Thunder; for then they stick an Arrow and Stone Ax into the Ground, and take Arms into their Hands, putting themselves into a posture as if they should suddenly be set upon by a mighty Enemy, and look’d upon it heretofore as a fore-running of theSpaniardsapproach, whose Cruelties they exceedingly dreaded.
They call all their Hero’sPillans, and ascribe Divine powers to them.
They take very much strong Tobacco, the Smoak whereof puffing in the Air with strange Gestures, they cry,Receive this, O Pillan.
Their cruel usage of Prisoners.
When they return home Conquerors from any Victory, they put a Stone Ax into the Ground, and standing Arm’d round about the same, Drink exceedingly, and sing a Song in honor ofPillan. They use their Prisoners very cruelly, for forcing them to Dance and make Merry amongst them, they on a sudden cleave their Heads with an Ax, pull their Hearts out of their Bodies, and bite the same with their Teeth. After the same manner they punish their Robbers and Traitors; but those that have good store ofChicato Present the Governors with, escape the Execution: Yet this cannot buy off Sorcerers or Witches, who are without mercy burnt alive, with all they enjoy’d.
They have no Priests, nor any that pretend to any religious Function; onely those that can Sing thePawarywell, are in great esteem amongst them.
Their second DeityMaruapeante(they say) informs them in a Dream when they must Marry; but he doth not do them this kindness before they have made themselves Drunk, and sung Sonnets to his praise.
The manner of chusing theNentoque.
This Countrey is Govern’d by prime Persons, call’dUlmen, or peculiar Lords, call’dCuracen. TheUlmensandCuracensCommand twenty five, sometimes fifty, a hundred Families: Their Power consists in calling all the People together, and consulting with them about State-Affairs, which they dare not do with any particularPerson, nor Levy any Tax without extraordinary occasion. They are bound to march in the Front of their Subjects against an Enemy, and are under a Governor-General call’dApocurace, or under aNentoque. Other lesser Offices are dispos’d of by theCuraces, orPulmenes; but theirNetonquesare chosen after this manner,viz.When that honorable Place is vacant, then whoever aims at it, computes with himself whether his Means will extend so far as to treat theCuracesandPulmeneswith a noble Treat; which if he is able to do, then he sends for them to an appointed place, whither they all go Arm’d, and whilest they are eating and drinking, he that desires the Place begins to tell them of his noble Extract, valiant Exploits, Riches, and eminent Relations, and therefore desires the Place of the deceasedNentoque: then theCuracerising, the intendedNentoquehangs a Chain ofTurkoises, or Cockle-shells about his Neck; whereupon theCuracemoves the rest to the Election, without any Articles, the newNentoqueonely promising to Govern all things for the best advantage and benefit of the common State: which done, theCuracetakes the Chain ofTurkoises, and distributes them amongst the primest Persons of Quality, and so they end the Day in Drinking, Dancing and Singing.
After the same manner they chuse anApocuraceor prime Governor; which of late theUca’s, that they may enjoy the more Priviledge themselves, have not elected.
Their Arms.
TheChilesesArms consist of Lances as long again as theEuropeans, made sharp at the Points. They all use Clubs plated with Iron, andSpanishSwords. ThePulches, who dwell behind the high MountainsCordilbra, use poyson’d Arrows, make Helmets and Breastplates of Ox-hides, which neither Sword nor Arrow can enter: they all know how to manage a Horse, and the use of a Lance, but are very much afraid of Musquets or Fire-locks.
Because they can neither write nor read, the Governor by a faithful Messenger sends to his inferior Officers such Commands as he judges may tend to the most advantage of the Publick both in Peace and War. This Messenger carries an Arrow with a Ribbon, as a Sign of his Employment; the Arrow is held in the Right-hand, and if he who receives it will answer the Message, then he sends back the same Arrow with another; but if he judges it convenient to acquaint any otherCuracesandPulmeneswith the same Message, then he sends one of his own Servants to them with the same Arrow.
A particular Account ofChili.
As touching the Climate and Production ofChili, this Account is given by an Eye-witness: “The Winter Season (saith he) is so tempestuous, that sometimes the Trees are not onely blown up by the Roots, but the Earth it self is rent asunder; some Valleys being fill’d with Snow, swell the Rivers exceedingly when it melts, which overflowing part of the Countrey, makes the same very fruitful. It is also extream cold here, because such sharp Winds blow from the Mountains, that they pierce through the Skin and Flesh of a Man: and indeed these Winds would make the whole Countrey desolate, were not the Mountains overgrown with great Oaken Trees, against which the Wind breaks. Moreover, the Valleys produce Coals, which serve the Inhabitants for Fewel. The Winter bereaves the Trees of Leaves; but not those which grow in the Wildernesses. InMarchthe Fields are full of innumerable sorts of sweet-smelling Flowers; out of some whereof are boyl’d theAngel-Water, so call’d for its smell and wholsom taste. The Grass grows inNovemberandDecemberas high as our standing Corn. Turnips, Mint, Clover, and Mustard-seed, grow naturally for several Leagues together. Likewise excellent Physical Herbs grow here, whose power and operation their Doctors, call’dMaci, keep from theSpaniards. TheseMaciare in greatesteem, not onely amongst theChileses, but also theSpaniards, for their great skill in Physick. Amongst these Herbs the chiefest is call’dQuincia-maliwhich grows but half a hands-breadth above the Ground, and spreads into several Stalks like a Nosegay; and on each Stalk is a Saffron-colour’d Flower. This Herb pull’d Up with the Root, and boyl’d, and the Decoction given to any one that is bruis’d within, works most wonderfully, for it draws out the putrifi’d Blood, though sunk never so deep in the Wound. Moreover the Juice ofCulenis also very healing, if us’d for an Ointment, or pour’d on any Wound. This Herb, by theSpaniardscall’dAlbaciga, hath sweet-smelling Leaves, and a tall Body. In some places also grows an Herb, not unlike Grass, which boyl’d in Water, immediately cures the Feaver and Spleen, and cleanses the Blood. There are likewise Medicines here, which dissolving the Stone in the Bladder or Kidneys, cause it to be urin’d forth. The PlantLuce, which grows out of rented Rocks which are often overflow’d by the Sea, makes a sort of well tasted Bread.”
The WildernessAtacama, which makes a Boundary betwixtPeruandChili, extends Northward ninety Leagues, is dry and barren in Summer, and in the Winter exceeding cold, and cover’d with Snow. No Provision is to be found upon it, except a few wild Sheep, call’dGuanacos. About the middle thereof the BrookLa Salrising in the Eastern Mountains, flows Westward through a deep Valley to the Southern Ocean.
Troublesom Passage fromPerutoChili.
The Water of the fore-mention’d Brook put into any Vessel, immediately turns to Salt, and all along the Shore lie greater or lesser pieces of Salt; so that the Way fromPerutoChilithroughAtacamais very troublesom: but that which leads thither over the snowy MountainsAndes, is much worse, because it is farther about, and threatens the Traveller with Destruction, if he observe not the right Season of the Year; for in the Winter there blows such a cold Wind on these Mountains, that a Man, being suddenly benumm’d, falls down dead on the Ground, and grows stiff against all putrefaction.Joseph de Acostatells us, that Bodies have been found there as firm and sound, as if they had been living, which had some years before breath’d their last on the said Mountains.
The ValleyCopayapo.
ButDiego Almagro, who first discover’dChili, Anno 1536. went thither with two Companies of Horse, and five hundred Foot, through the CountreysCharcas,Chicas,Xuxayes, andChaquana, and having pass’d over a craggy Soil and the snowy MountainsAndes, he entred into the firstChileanValleyCapayapo, having lost no small number of Men and Horses with Hardship and Cold; the inconvenience therefore of both the fore-mention’d Ways betweenPeruandChili, forc’d Travellers to go along the Shore wash’d by the Southern Ocean.Copayapobears that Denomination from theTurkoiseswhich a Mountain produces there in great abundance. The Valley it self is the fruitfullest of allChili; for in no place theMaizgrows better, and in greater abundance than here, the Ears being half a Yard long, and the Stalks the length of a Lance; each Grain that is Sow’n, yields at least three hundred in Harvest. AllSpanishFruits grow better here than inSpain.
Through the midst ofCopayaporuns a River of the same Denomination, and twenty Leagues in length from theAndes, and at its Mouth hath a convenient Harbor before the South Sea.
The South part ofCopayapoborders the ValleyGuasco, which is less fruitful than the first, but hath a convenient Haven, into which falls a fresh River, penn’d in by Sluces for the watering of the Cane-Fields. Moreover, there are plenty of Partridges; also wild Sheep and grey Squirrel-skins are of a great value. To the Southward flow also the RiversMaypo,ChachaPool,Loro, andMoule.
Beyond these Streams Eastward, thePromouca’s dwell near the MountainsAndes.
In the ValleyChili, which gives Denomination to the whole Countrey, were formerly the famous Gold-MinesQuillatas, from whenceValdivia, Anno 1544. carry’d an invaluable Treasure. The South Sea makes here a large and convenient Harbor for all manner of Vessels, built two Leagues below the CitySerena, at a little River, which so moistens the low Countrey, that it produces all manner of Plants. It rains here not above three times a year.
From the Entertainment which SirFrancis Drakemet withal here, may sufficiently be conjectur’d the Power ofSerena; for when theEnglishLanded here for Water, they were driven away not without great loss by three hundredCastilianHorse, and two hundred Foot that Sally’d out of the City. The Mines, though they inclose much Gold, yet they produce but little, because theSpaniards, according to the testimony of aChileanPilot, whomOliver Van Noorttook Prisoner, destroy’d all the ancient Inhabitants that should have help’d them to dig the Gold.
The CitySt. Jago, lying near the StreamTopocalma, receives great benefit by the HavenValparayso, which makes the fore-mention’d River, because in that Haven all Goods that come fromLimaare unladen, and the Goods shipp’d aboard. The Countrey about the same produces plenty of Wines, Apples, Corn, and all sorts of Cattel, and especially Horses in such abundance, that thousands of them run wild.
InValparaysoSirFrancis Draketook a Ship fromValdivia, laden with two thousand five hundred Bars of fine Gold. But theNetherlandAdmiral,Joris Spilbergen, had not such good success, who Sailing thither with five Ships,Anno 1615.discover’d aSpanishShip in the Harbor; where sending his Boats well Mann’d to fetch off a Vessel that lay hal’d on the Shore, they found it burning, and thereupon Steer’d their Course into a little Inlet full of Rocks, which serv’d theSpaniardsin stead of Breast-works; for lying behind them, they fir’d continually on theHollanders; yetSpilbergenLanding with two hundred Men, met a considerable number ofSpanishSoldiers, and Horses drawn out on the Shore, from whom they soon fled.
Before the CityLa Conceptionlies the IslandQuiriquyna, whose Straw HutsSpilbergenlaid in Ashes.
At the time whenOliver Van Noortcame to an Anchor here, the GovernorFranciscus de QuinonesCommanded seven hundredSpanishSoldiers to reduce the revoltedChileses.
Four Leagues fromConceptionlie the rich Gold-MinesQuilacoya, which formerly produc’d great Riches.
Over against the ValleyArauco, which rises out of the Sea, lies the IslandMaria, in a large Inlet made by the force of the Waves.
Here grows abundance of Wheat and Barley. The Rivers also afford plenty of Fish, amongst which there is one call’dThe Lake-Spider, in whose Eyes are to be seen little Specks, which would exceed Pearl, if they were but hard enough.
TwoSpaniardsCommand forty Natives onMaria, and keep them in such slavery, that they may neither eat Apples, Pears, Grapes, Poultrey, or Sheep, though they are there in great abundance.
Elias Herkmanswas once in probability to have taken possession of this Island for theNetherlandState, had he not been prevented by an extraordinary occasion.
Between the TownsConceptionandImperiallie the ProvincesArauco,Tucapel, andPuren, inhabited by a valiant People, that often alarm theSpaniards. In each ProvinceValdiviabuilt a Fort in the Year 1551. eight Leagues distant from one another. He also discover’d the rich Gold-MinesDe Ongol, and built the FortConfinesthere.