The several Names ofCuba.
Westward, or rather to the North-West ofHispaniola, liethCuba, accountedIts Bounds.one of the four Isles ofBarlovento, and byColumbus, upon his first Discovery, call’dJoanna, afterwardsFernandina, thenAlphaandOmega, till at last the present Name prevail’d; it is parted from the other by a Frith, or narrow Channel, which runneth betwixt the Capes ofSt. Nicholas, belonging toHispaniola, and that call’dMayzi, belonging toCuba: On the North it hath a Frie of little Islands call’dThe Leucayæ Islands, of which more in their proper place, so many and so thick scatter’d, that they serve for no small Security and Defence of the Island on that side; besides, a part of thePeninsulaofFlorida, which Coasteth it likewise Northward; on the West it hath the Countrey ofJucatan, which is part of the Continent, but at a distance of forty or fifty Leagues; and on the South,Jamaica. It is reckon’d to be in length from CapeMayzi, which looks towardsHispaniolato the Cape ofSt. Anthony, which is upon the Bay ofMexico, two hundred and thirty Leagues; but in breadth in some places not above fifteen or sixteen Leagues over; in the broadest place fromJardinestoLucanaca, not above forty,in others sixty five. But for fertility of Soil, contending withHispaniolait self, and for temperature and healthiness of Air, much exceeding it; nor less rich formerly in good Mines both of Gold and Silver, and plentifully stor’d at present, not onely with Sugar-Canes of the best Growth, but likewise with abundance of Ginger-Roots,Cassia-Fistula, Mastick, Aloes, Cinamon, Long-Pepper ofAmerica, as they call it, and divers other sorts of Spices. The Pastures no less abounding with Cattel of all sorts, especially ofEuropeanBreed; the Rivers and Coasts of the Sea with good Fish; no scarcity of Fowl, whether wild or tame; good Brass and Iron still found, with some Gold in the Rivers, especially those which fall into the BayXaguaon the South side of the Island; the chiefest thereof areArimao,La Luna,De Mares, andCauto; the biggest of them falls Southward into the Sea; all of them breed store of Crocodiles, which have oftentimes seiz’d both upon Men and Beasts, and carrying them into the Water, devour’d them there.
Trees.
The Cedars breathe forth a most excellent sweet smell, and grow so large, that out of the single Trunks of some of them Boats are said to have been made, capable to hold forty, sometimes sixty Men.
There are also many other very odoriferous Trees, yielding a certain Rozen or Gum, no less precious than theStorax.
Birds.
But nothing grows here more plentifully than Vines, the Bodies or Stocks of which are as thick as a Man’s Middle, and bear excellent Grapes.
Besides Partridges, Turtle-Doves, and other Fowl, the Sea-shore breeds thousands of Cranes, which when young, are white, but when old, become of several Colours; they stand commonly with their Legs in salt Water, which they drink.
Manner of taking Parrots.
The Parrots which breed here us’d to be taken by the Natives after a strange manner: A Boy having a Bundle of Herbs about his Head, climbs up to the top of a Tree, holding a Parrot over his Head, which by griping he forces to make a noise, and thereby draws others to come flying about him; upon which, being expert in this Art, he throws a String with a Noose made fast to a Stick about them, and pulls them to him.
There are a sort of four-footed Serpents, by the Natives call’dYguanas, of which they us’d to eat.
The Flesh of Tortoises or Turtles, was accounted a great Dainty amongst them, especially those of the biggest size, of which some have been known to weigh a hundred and thirty Pound: The Feet of them are said to cure the Leprosie and Scabs.
Amongst the peculiar Trees of this Countrey, are theZaguaand theCaninga.
The Cotton, which is of the natural Growth of this Place, is exceeding fine.
Here is also the BirdFlamingo, and another sort of Bird call’dBambayas.
In former timesCubawas Govern’d by several Lords, each Commanding over his own Province.
Chief Provinces ofCuba.
The chiefest of these Provinces areMayzi,Bayamo,Cueyba,Camguey,Macaca,Xagua,Habana, andUhima; some of them are plain, others mountainous, and being more or less fruitful, were very populous, before theSpaniardscame thither, but since their cruel Massacres, scarce any of the antient Natives are left: Nor are theSpaniardshere at present very populous, considering the largeness of the Island.
In the Province ofCamagueyis a Valley three Leagues in bigness, where Nature produces a great number of large Stones so exactly round, that no Man with a Compass can make a more exact Circle.
Though the Gold, which is digg’d out of the Mines, and found in Rivers, is none of the purest, yet the Copper which this Countrey affords is accounted excellent.
HAVANA
Serpents.
The Serpents here are about the bigness of a Hare, having Heads like Weezles; they prey on little Beasts call’dGuabiniquinazes, and have been accounted delicious and wholsom Meat.
Antient Customs of the Natives.
The antient Natives went formerly naked. The Men made it a Custom to forsake their Wives when they pleas’d; yet the Women were still oblig’d to be faithful to them, though from the very first day of their Marriage they were taught to Cuckold them, by a certain wicked Ceremony in use amongst them; for the Bridegroom lay not with his Bride the first Night, but suffer’d her to be enjoy’d by one of his Friends of equal Quality with himself, whether he were Lord, Merchant, Laboring-man, or what Estate soever.
TheSpaniardat first beaten by the Natives.
This Island was reduc’d under theSpanishGovernment not without great effusion of Blood; for the Natives having had continual Wars with the Cannibals, as hath been said, were not ignorant in the Exercise of Arms. The firstSpanishCommander sent against them wasValdivia, whom they slew with all his Men, and hew’d his Ship in pieces. Little better escap’dFogeda, whose Men were all cut off, and he himself escaping very miraculously, died not long after of his Wounds inSt. Domingo.
St. Jagobuilt byValasquez.
Within two years after,viz.Anno 1514.Diego Velasquezwith better success set forth forCuba, where the first thing he did was to build a City, which he call’dSt. Jago, lying near a Southern Bay, full of Fish, and defended with several small Isles, behind which the Ships in the greatest Storm may Ride very secure; by reason whereof the new City increas’d so much, that in a short time it could shew two thousand Inhabitants, a brave Church, a Cloyster, and was made a Bishop’s See, but subordinate to that ofSt. Domingo.
The Copper Mountains.
St. Jagotaken by theEnglish.
Three or four Leagues from the City are those famous Mountains, by theSpaniardscall’dSierra de Cobre, orThe Copper Mountains, from the abundance of that Metal which the Mines in them afforded, and do yet afford; but the City was afterwards almost left desolate, (divers Houses in the same standing empty) having in it scarce two hundred Inhabitants; which made it the easier to be taken by a hundred and sixtyEnglish-men, led by CaptainCliff,Anno 1601.who carried from thence a hundred thousand Pieces of Eight, and a Ships Lading of Hides and Sugar.
Baracoa.
2. BesidesSt. Jago,Valasquezbuilt the TownBaracoa, on the Eastern Shore ofCuba, wash’d by the RiverMares, which falls into the Ocean between two Mountains on one side, and a flat Point on the other, and is a most excellent Harbor: Not far from which grows the best Ebony Wood.
St. Salvador.
3. He also built the TownSt. Salvador, one of the most healthful Promontories of allCuba, near the RiverBayamo, which produces round Stones, us’d there in stead of Bullets.
Trinidad.
4. He likewise builtTrinidad, before which hardly accessible Harbor many a Ship hath been cast away: But this Fort was by a mighty Storm levell’d even with the Ground.
Puerto del Principe.
5. Near the Haven before the TownPuerto del Principeis a Fountain, out of which at certain times flows liquid Pitch.
Villa Sancti Spiritus.
6. The Town call’dVilla Sancti Spiritus, six Leagues from the Ocean, boasts fifty brave Houses, and is wash’d by the RiverSaaz.
Havana.
7. The chiefest City which theSpaniardspossess in theWest-Indies, and the present Seat of their Governor, isChristovall de Havana; which stood first on the South side ofCuba, but was afterwards built on the North, opposite toFlorida: The Harbor before it is large and safe, for it is able to contain a thousand Ships, without the least endangering of one another, and yet the Entrance so narrow, between aPromontory and a square Fort, that two Ships cannot Sail in together: the shallowest part thereof hath six Fathom Water. On each side the Mouth of the Harbor is a Fort, the one call’dMesa de Maria, which stands built on a Champain Ground; the other call’dMorro, which lies at the Foot of two Hills, on whose tops several Guns are planted, which Command the Town and Haven.
Betwixt these two Forts is a Tower cover’d, on the top whereof is a round Lantern, wherein stands continually a Watch-man, who puts forth as many Flags as he discovers Ships at Sea, to give notice thereof to the City, which is a Mile from thence.
BeforeHavanastands a third Castle, well stor’d with Guns, as likewise the rest are, in all to the number of two hundred and forty, and strongly Garrison’d; of which great care was taken by the GeneralJean de Texeda, andBaptista Antonelli, an Architect, sent thither byPhilipthe Second, King ofSpain, to secure the Place from all foreign Assaults, because the Plate-Fleet, and other Ships that come out of theWest-Indies, have their place of Rendezvouz here, and from hence set Sail altogether forSpain. The City stands along the Haven, and hath two Churches with spiry Steeples. The Houses are now built after theSpanishmanner.
Havanaseveral times Assaulted and taken.
ButHavanawas not so strongly fortifi’d in former times, forAnno 1536.it could not resist a meanFrenchPyrate, who losing the rest of his Fleet was driven hither by Storm, and conqueringHavana, had burnt the same, consisting at that time of woodden Houses cover’d with Thatch, had not theSpaniardsredeem’d them from the Fire for seven hundredDucats; with which Money theFrenchset Sail, when the day following three Ships arriv’d fromNew SpainbeforeHavana, and having unladed their Goods, and preparing themselves for Battel, pursu’d the Pyrate; whom getting sight of, the Admiral, who Sail’d before, durst not venture to Engage him alone, but staid for the other two Ships: from which cowardly Action theFrenchPyrate taking Courage, fell on theSpanishAdmiral, who without firing a Gun ran his Ship ashore, and deserted the same: the next Ship thereby discourag’d Tacking about, made away from the Enemy; on which the third also follow’d, insomuch that at last they were all three taken by theFrench; who encourag’d with this unexpected Victory, steer’d their Course a second time toHavana, where they got as much more Money from the Inhabitants as before. After this theSpaniardsbuilt all their Houses of Stone, and a Fort at the Mouth of the Harbor, yet nevertheless the City lay open on the Land side; of which theEnglishFleet, Cruising about in those Seas, being inform’d, Landed not far fromHavana, and enter’d the City before Day-break: theSpaniardsthus suddenly surpriz’d, fled into the Woods, whilest theEnglishplunder’d and ransack’d the City without any resistance. But this was not the last Blow whichHavanareceiv’d, for during the Wars between the EmperorCharlesthe Fifth, and theFrenchKingHenrythe Second, a Ship set Sail with ninety Soldiers fromDieptoCuba, where they made themselves Masters ofSt. Jago, and carried great Treasure away with them: Thus enrich’d, they set in the Night onHavana, but found their Expectations frustrated, for all the Houses were empty, theSpaniards(being so often Plunder’d) having remov’d all their Goods to their Countrey Houses, which lay scattering about the Island. Whilest theFrenchwere searching the Houses, twoSpaniardscame under pretence of agreeing with them, but their Design was chiefly to take an Account of their Enemies Forces. TheFrenchdemanded six thousandDucatsof them: to which the twoSpaniardsreply’d, That all their Goods would not raise so much: then going to their Party, inform’d them of the number of the Enemies, and their Demands; whereupon Consulting, some judg’d it best to comply with a forc’d Necessity, andif they could not get any thing abated, to pay the demanded Sum: but most of them were of another opinion, alledging, That the number of theFrenchwas not equivalent to their Demands, and that it would not be for their Credit, to yield up their Estates so tamely, without trying their Title by the Sword: This being judg’d fittest, they march’d to Engage them with a hundred and fifty Men, which about Midnight fell on theFrench, and at the first Onset slew four of them; but upon the firing of the Gun they were all alarm’d, and after a small Skirmish, put theSpaniardsto flight. The Conquerors enrag’d at this treacherous Plot of theSpaniards, set fire onHavana, in which at that time was a good quantity of Pitch and Tarr; with which the Gates, Windows, Roofs, and Pent-houses being all bedaub’d over, were in few hours all in a light Flame; after which the Churches in order for their firing, were also going to be over-laid with the same combustible Matter; at which aSpaniardboldly desir’d, that the Temples erected for Gods Service might be spar’d: to which he was answer’d, That People who keep not their Promise, nor had any Faith, had no need of Churches to profess their Faith in. TheFrenchnot satisfi’d with burning, pull’d down the Walls, and utterly demolish’d the Fort.
The HavenXagua.
The HavenXaguaalso is not inferior to any, the Mouth thereof being a Boweshot wide, and within, ten Leagues: The Ships are securely shelter’d behind three Islands, and also the Mountains, which rise along the Shore.
The Success of AdmiralPeter Hein.
Moreover, the InletMatancais not onely eminent, by reason of the round MountainElan de Matancas, which rises from a low Ground; but chiefly for the Expeditions of AdmiralPeter Peterson Hein, who being sent out by theWest-IndiaCompany, to Cruse up and down beforeHavanawith one and thirty Sail, was from thence by a strong Current driven down toMatanca; where he stood from the Shore, when ten Ships came just running amidst his Fleet, and were all taken but one: About Noon they discover’d nine Ships more, which Sailing along the Shore, got into the InletMatanca, where they ran aground; whitherHeinfollowing, came up to them the next Morning by Break-of-day, and after a small Resistance took them, being valu’d to be worth above a hundred and fifteen Tun of Gold, besides the Musk, Ambergreece, andBezoarwith which two other Ships were laden, and another rich Prize.
This large IslandCuba(as we have before observ’d) formerly divided into so many populous Territories, is now in a manner desolate; for according to theSpaniardsRelation to the AdmiralHenry Jacobson Lucifer, when he was beforeHavana,Cubahad upon it not above sixty thousand Persons in all, inAnno 1627.But who-ever Reads that which BishopBartholomeo de las Casashath written in his Book, (Printed first inSivillin theSpanishTongue, and afterwards, with the King ofSpain’s leave, inFrenchatAntwerp) will easily find the reason, whyCubaand many otherIndianCountreys lie so desolate; and how sensible theIndianswere of theSpaniardsusage, appears by this following Story, related by the said Bishop, of aCasiquecall’dHathuey, who before theSpaniardsapproach’d his Countrey,Anno 1511.fled fromHispaniolatoCuba; where afterwards he was taken by theSpaniards, and condemn’d to be burnt alive with green Wood: whilest he was tying to a Stake, aFranciscanMonk Preach’d to him the Mysteries of theChristianReligion, of which he had never heard; and likewise that he should ascend up to Heaven if he dy’d in that Belief; but if not, burn perpetually in Hell: WhereuponHathueyasking theFranciscan, If there were anySpaniardsin Heaven? and being told there were, answer’d,I will rather converse amongst the Devils in Hell, than amongst theSpaniards,whose Cruelty is such, that none can be more miserable than whereSpaniardsare.
Before we conclude the Description ofCuba, it will be material to add some Passages of a Letter from MajorSmith, Governor of the Isle ofProvidence, who was taken there in the Year 1665. which will give light to the knowledge of the present State, not onely ofCuba, but of some other parts ofAmerica, belonging to theSpaniards; which is as followeth:
Maj.Smith’s Letter concerningCubaand other Parts.
Cubais a very good Island, and in it is generally the best Land, for so large a Countrey, as I have seen inAmerica, although I have travell’d the main Continent in several places, and have cross’d from the North Sea to the South Sea, as also the North side ofHispaniola, and most parts ofJamaica.
This great Island is easie to be conquer’d, and would make the best Plantation, besides the prejudice it would be to theSpaniard, and the great advantage to our Nation; for instance, Had we the Port and City ofHavana, which might in all probability be reduc’d with two Regiments of good Soldiers fromJamaica, carrying with them two or three Sloops or Shallops for Landing Men, fitted with good Arms and other Necessaries for an Assault, presently after their Armado hath pass’d out of theIndies, which is once in two years, towards the latter part of the Summer. There is good Landing on the West side of the City, where it lies open; and you need fear no Ambuscado’s: but not on the East side on the Harbor, for there you will be gawl’d by the strong Castle of theMoare, until the City be secur’d; but when that is once taken, you may easily reduce that Castle also, there being no danger of their re-taking it, until the next Armado arrives there, which will be almost two years, against which time you will have Planters enough from other of our Islands, to Manure the Land, and assist the Soldiers in defence thereof: This once effected, would utterly ruine theSpaniards, for these Reasons: Our Ships lying both here and atJamaica, would be at all times ready to gather up their stragling Fleet, which it is difficult to keep imbodied without the help of that Port ofHavana, it being impossible for their great unruly Ships to turn up to Windward from the Bay ofMexico, orPuerto Bello, without separation; and on the other side, to pass the Gulf ofFlorida, is for them as impossible, where they always Rendezvouz, Victual, Water, and provide all things necessary for their Return intoSpain; after all which they diligently wait for a convenient Season of Winds and Weather (being much observ’d from the Changes of the Moon) when to pass that dangerousStraight: for to say truly, theSpaniardsare neither very fit for Sea nor Land-Service, excepting some Officers and Soldiers bred inFlandersfor Land-Service, and a fewBiscainersfor Sea-Affairs. They are so sensible of their Weakness, and jealous of their Riches in those Parts, that it is very difficult for any ingenious Man to get his Liberty, being once taken, fearing he might give such Intelligence, as to be thereby the cause of their ruine, witness their blind-folding of all Strangers, when they pass their Cities and Castles; for they much dread an old Prophecy amongst them,viz.That within a short time theEnglishwill as freely walk the Streets ofHavana,as theSpaniardsnow do; which indeed had been easily perform’d with a third part of theEnglishArmy sent toJamaica, and a far greater advantage to the Nation: for I esteem that Port and Harbor ofHavanain theWest-Indies, equivalent (against that Nation) toTangierin theStraightsofGibraltar; and if we were at once Masters of both, it would without doubt so straiten theSpaniards, as absolutely to admit us a free Trade into their Ports ofAmerica, where they impart our Commodities, and sell them for ten times more than they first cost inSpain, by reason of the great plenty of Silver: which Trade would not onely be of infinite advantage to us, but also prevent them of their future enslaving of our Nation in Chains as now they do; for being employ’d about their Fortifications, they are worse us’d, all things consider’d, than if they were taken by theTurks.
JAMAICÆ
I have seen other parts of theWest-Indies, where theSpaniardsmight be fleec’d of considerable quantities of Riches, as atPanama, where their Silver Bars lie pyl’d up in Heaps in the open Streets Day and Night without Guard for five or six Moneths together, waiting the arrival of the Armado; which when arriv’d inPuerto Bello, they Transport it thither with so slender a Guard, for so great a Treasure, as would be an easie Prey to a thousand resolv’d Men (although of extraordinary value for so small a Charge;) but here is no resting, nor long remaining, they being so numerous (as in all other places of the main Land) though of great Wealth, and easily gotten with a Catch and away: But to my purpose,
This Island ofCubahath adjacent to it great Conveniences of Salt and Fishing; and in it are very great plenty of Horses, Neat, Sheep, and Hogs, both wild and tame, of a far larger and better breed than any other parts ofAmerica: It hath also many very rich Mines of Copper already open, and is the onely Place that supplies all theWest-Indieswith Metal for the infinite number of Ordnance they have in all their Ports and Castles, both in the North and South Seas; but whether it hath any Mines of Silver or Gold, I know not; but if there were any such, they would not adventure their opening and discovery, fearing the Invasion of that Island, whereunto is so easie access by Sea, and of so great import to their whole Interest inAmerica: for which reason also they refuse to work any Mines inFlorida, that are nigh the North Sea, (although they have there very many) but do rather employ themselves about others farther up in the Countrey, although with greater Labor and Cost, for conveyance of the Product by Land toMexico. And lastly, (for its full praise) this Island hath many very good Ports and Harbors of great advantage to Ships, for safe passing the Gulf; and should theSpaniardskeep three or four Frigats always plying between the Western end ofCubaand that ofHavana, off and on, it were impossible for any Ships of ours that came fromJamaicato escape them; the Scales turn’d would be their Case to allAmerica. Neither wants it great Sugar-works, which have Water-mills and Horse-mills, and very many largeCocoaWalks, the most and best Tobacco: and in short, it produceth all other Commodities, that any of ourAmericanIslands have knowledge of.