Situation ofSt. Vincent.
The Island ofSt. Vincent, South-West fromSt. Lucia, and having sixteen Degrees of North-Latitude, was so call’d by theSpaniards, as having discover’d it on that Saint’s Day, being the fifth ofApril: It is accounted eight Leagues long and six broad, and rises round about with high Grounds and several Mountains, which are seen at a great distance.
This Island hath a very fruitful Soil, and for the bigness of it hath been long since well peopled withCaribbeeansbefore the arrival of theSpaniards, possessing here several Villages, to whom they are still sworn Enemies, but Truck’d with theHollandersfor Provisions, Horns, Axes, Knives, and other Trifles. At the West and South sides are convenient Bays to lie at Anchor and take Water in.
The FruitMomen.
The Inhabitants highly esteem theMomen, growing to the bigness of an Apple-Tree; the Fruit which it bears resembles a green Cucumber, and is of a pleasant Juice, the Skin always green and prickly; the Seed which is in the same about the bigness of aFrenchBean, is generally black, and streak’d with Golden-colour’d Veins.
TheGranadilla.
Here is also that Plant mention’d elsewhere, by theSpaniardcall’dGranadilla, by theDutch Rhang-Apple, andLa Fleur de la Passionby theFrench; and it is so call’d, as being fancied to represent the thorny Crown of ourSaviour, together with the Cross, Nails, Hammer and Pillar; the Plant runs along the Ground, unless it meet with a Pole by which it runs up.
Situation ofBekia.
Not far fromSt. Vincentlies the IslandBekia, which reckons twelves Leagues in circumference, and lies at twelve Degrees and twelve Scruples of Northern Latitude: It hath a secure Harbor against all Winds; but because it is without fresh Water, it is onely frequented by theCaribbeeansthat dwell onSt. Vincent, who come hither to Fish, and visit certain little Gardens which they have there for their pleasure.
The Soil produces store of Water-melons, whose red juicy Pulp yields, when squeez’d, a great quantity of sweet Liquor, which is very refreshing, and good to create an Appetite; their white Flowers, notch’d at the end of the leaves, afford a delightful smell.
Anno 1633.CaptainJohn Johnson Van Hoornputting in toBekiato catch Tortoises, found a fine Inlet on the West, and Eastward a Ridge of Rocks, Cotton growing wild in the Fields, and upon the Shore a kind of Snails call’dBurgun, under whose first Shell appear’d another of a Silver colour with black Specks.
Situation ofGranada.
Granada, lying at twelve Degrees and sixteen Scruples, like a Half-moon, from the North to the South, is full of Woods. Towards the South-West runs a fresh River into the Sea. The Shore very low affords good Anchorage at twelve Leagues distance. The Current grows exceeding strong here, and the Water also ebbs and flows in a few hours.Dirick Simonszoon WitgeestSailing fromTabago, was amaz’d to see with what force the Current drove him toGranada.
TheFrenchpossess it.
HitherDu Parquetat his own Charge sent three hundred Men fromMartinico, who scuffled with the Inhabitants six Moneths before they could possess the same in Peace; and scarce had they obtain’d it at last, but by telling them that theFrenchAssistance would be very advantageous unto them against theArovages.
The DukeSeryllacinParisinform’d of the Fertility of this Island, bought itofDu Parquetfor a considerable Sum of Money: And indeedGranadais none of the meanest of theCaribbees, the Soil producing very good both Fruit and Timber-Trees, amongst which is theLatine-Tree, of a tall Body, but ordinary thickness, and in stead of Boughs, hang Leaves like Fans in long Stalks, which being ty’d together, serve for Roofs of Houses.
There is also the TreeCocoa, which yet grows not so high here as in other parts of theWest-Indies.
Situation ofTabago.
The next which comes in view isTabago, (so call’d, as some think, from the quantity of that Drug there Planted) eight Leagues long and four broad, lying in the eleventh Degree and sixteen Minutes of Northern Latitude, and hath many high Mountains full of Wood, out of which glide eighteen Streams, which watering the Plains fall into the Sea.
CaptainVitgeestcoming to an Anchor here, found a convenient Inlet on the East, and fresh Water to fill his Casks. Half a League from the Shore rise five Rocks, through which he Sail’d with his Ships. Within the Cliff opens a Bay, into which runs a River well stor’d with Fish. More Westerly lies a larger Inlet, which receives two delightful Streams. From the Western Promontory runs also a Cliff Northward into the Sea.
This Island is easily known by high Coasts which rise on the East side, and so grows lower by degrees. It is likewise made pleasant by many Walks of Trees.
The Sea produces abundance of those sorts of Fish which are common amongst us, besides Tortoises, that lay their Eggs in the Sand.
Cra-fish.
The Cra-fish thereabouts are not much unlike Lobsters, have white and well tasted Flesh, but hard to digest; they catch them in the Night on sandy Shelves with lighted Torches.
Crabs.
The Crabs get their Food very wonderfully here; for when they observe the Mussles or Oysters to Gape for fresh Air, they put Stones between their Shells, so that they not being able to shut them, they pull out the Fish with their Claws.
The Woods feed an innumerable company of Beasts somewhat resembling Hogs, (whose Navels are on their Backs)Opassums,Javaris’s, andTatows, as also theAgoutys’s andMusk-Rats.
Agoutys.
TheAgoutys’s are of a dark brown colour, and have little Tails, two Teeth in their upper, and as many in their lower Jaw; they make a noise as if they spoke, cryingCouye; if hunted by Dogs, they run into hollow Trees, out of which they are routed by Smoak.
Musk-Rats.
The greatMusk-Ratsare as big as a Rabbet, and like them live in Holes made in the Ground, but resemble anEuropeanRat, onely their Skins are black, except one part of their Bellies which are white; they smell so strong of Musk, that it overcomes those that carry them.
Serpents.
Amongst the Brambles breed also Serpents of a green colour, two yards long, and an Inch thick, feeding on Locusts and Birds, which they take in their Nests, but do no hurt to Mankind.
TheSassafrasTree.
ButTobagoboasts chiefly of theSassafras-Tree, which resembles the Pine-Tree, hath a firm and streight Body, and on the top Boughs spread like a Crown, the Bark of a dark colour and smooth, and smelling very sweet; the Leaves thin, notch’d,and of a deep Green, have also a delicate smell; the thinnest Roots appear above the Ground, and are exceeding good to cure green Wounds, stoppings and shortness of Breath occasion’d by Colds.
The Tobacco, by theCaribbeeanscall’dY-ouli, Planted among the Fruit-Trees, grows very plentifully here; it shoots up from a stringy Root, bitter of taste, with a thick Stalk, which shoots out Boughs with great Leaves, woolly underneath, and bears a kind of Violet Flower, which when dry’d, are succeeded by little Cods full of black Seed; and to prevent the over-growing of it, they cut off the top of the main Stalk.
The BirdColibry.
The BirdColibry, which is exceeding beautiful, makes his Nest under the Tobacco-Leaves.
A company of Townsmen ofWalcheren, having a Grant from theStatesof theUnited Provinces, sent a Colony toTabago; but they being scarce two hundred in all, were for the most part destroy’d by theCaribbeeans; the rest weak or sickly, fearing the same Entertainment, sought to save themselves; so that the Island has not formerly been frequented but by theFrenchfromMartinico, andGuadalupe, who for some time came over onely to catch Turtles andLamantinsthere.
TheCaribbeeansalso either in their March against, or Return from theArovages, Landed here for necessary Provisions; But of late the LordLampsenhath Setled a Plantation in this desolate Island.
Situation ofSt. ChristophersIsland.
St. Christophers, a pretty distance fromTobago, receiv’d its Denomination fromChristopher Columbus, invited thereto by the shape of a great Mountain, having as it were another lesser on one of its Shoulders, being fancy’d to represent the Figure of the suppos’d GiantChristopher, who is reported to have carry’d ourSaviourin the appearance of a little Child on his Shoulders through a deep Sea.
This Island lying seventeen Degrees and twenty five Minutes Northward of theEquinoctial Line, hath twenty five Leagues in circumference.
The Soil light and sandy, refuses not the production of divers sorts of Fruits common amongst us.
In the middle of the Island rises a high Mountain, out of which run fresh Streams, that sometimes swell so high with sudden Rains, that they drown all the Countrey near them.
The Division of the Island into several Wards.
This Island being jointly the Plantation of bothEnglishandFrench, was divided into four Wards, two whereof have been long since in possession of theFrench, and the other two in possession of theEnglish, strangely divided one from another; for theEnglishin one Ward cannot go to the other without troubling theFrench; and so on the contrary: theEnglishhave more Rivers and People, theFrenchmore plain Land, fitter for Cultivation, and Forts furnish’d with Guns and Soldiers. At the Entrances of the Paths which lead into the several Wards stand Watch-houses, where Sentinels, or Watch-men stand daily in their turns.
In a Bay of the Sea they found a brave Salt-pit, from whence a sandy Cliff runs so far into the Ocean, a that some have swum from the end thereof over to the IslandNevis.
A Silver Mine hath been long since discover’d on this Island, in which theEnglishandFrenchclaim equal Interest, but neither Party make any benefit of it for want of Miners.
The high Mountains, the Springs of boyling sulphurous Water, and brambly Woods, hinder all passage through the middle of the Island: The Ground runs more and more sloaping to the Sea-side, and is divided into several High-ways, along which stand convenient Houses, cover’d with red or glaz’d Slate, shaded with Trees, and environ’d with pleasant Gardens, to which there is a delightful Prospect from the Fields, of the green Tobacco-Leaves, the yellow Sugar-Canes, Ginger, and Potato’s.
Basse-Terrethe chief Town belonging to theFrench.
Besides the scatter’d Buildings, theFrenchhave built a compleat Town near the convenientest Harbor of their Quarter, call’dBasse-Terre, where the Merchants dwell in fair Houses built of Brick and Free-stone; whither all sorts of People bring their Commodities, and Truck theirEuropeanGoods for such asSt. Christophersproduceth. All manner of Trades and Handicrafts live also in this Town, and a Court of Judicature is kept every Week. The Church built of Free-stone, is cover’d with the aforesaid red Slate, and was formerly Govern’d by theCapuchins; but they being dismiss’dAnno 1646.the Government was given to theJesuitsandCarmelites; who also built themselves other stately Edifices: but the JesuitHenrick du Vivierwas the first who bore the chiefest Command over all.
The Sick that have not sufficient Means to maintain them, have an Hospital appointed, where all Necessaries are provided for them; and to which is added a School for the bringing up of poor Children.
Description of the Castle.
But the chiefest Structure is the Castle, on the building whereof the LordPoincyspar’d no Cost; it is built half aFrenchMile from the Sea at the Foot of a high Mountain, shadowed with great Trees. In the Way thither stand the Houses of the prime Officers; and a long Walk of Orange and Lemmon-Trees leads to a large Court before the Front of the Castle it self, which is built square with Bricks and Free-stone three Stories high; and the Entrance into it is ascended by a large pair of Stairs; near the Gate which opens to the West, stand great Stone Cisterns, into which they receive the Water through Pipes laid under Ground; the Chambersand Halls are very lightsom and high, and the Walls of them adorn’d with Cedar; a flat Terrace on the top yields a pleasant Prospect all over the Countrey; the Windows in the Front look open not onely upon the Orange Walk, but also upon several delightful Plantations of Sugar-Canes and Ginger.
Westward appear several Mountains, whose high Heads are invested with ever-flourishing Trees; and between the Palace and those Mountains a very large and stately Garden, full of all manner of Flowers and other delightful Plants, as well those commonly known amongst us, as those peculiar to that part of the World; in the middle thereof stands a Fountain, deriving its Source from the Foot of a neighboring Hill.
The Winds which blow from the Hills, and especially those cool Blasts daily coming out of the East, so tempers the hot Climate, that it becomes very tolerable.
When any News arrives here of theFrenchConquests inEurope, they sound the Trumpets on the top of the Castle, and the Standards and Ensigns formerly taken by the Governor in the Field, are hung out of the Windows.
On one side of the Castle stands a Chappel, and somewhat farther on a rising Plain, a row of Houses, inhabited by certain Retainers to the Governor, and is call’dAngola. The Offices and Lodgings for the Governor’s Servants are built of Brick, about the Castle, which is fortifi’d with five Sconces, whereon are planted several Guns.
The Governor keeps nine hundred Slaves, and a hundredFrench-men, to work in his three Sugar-Mills, to till his Ground, and for his Houshold-Service.
SeveralFrenchGentlemen have also built many fair Houses here; amongst which the chiefest are those on whichPoucy,Treval,Benevent,Girand,Auber,de la Roziere,de St. Andant,de l’ Esperance, andde la Lochespent great sums of Money.
TheEnglishalso are not much inferior to them in their Counties.
TheEnglishPlantations in this Island.
Their Churches are five in all; first on the Point of thePalm-Treestands a fair Church; a second near the great Road, below theEnglishGovernor’s House; a third at theSandy Point; which are all well built, and large enough for a considerable Congregation; the other two at the InletCayouneare short of the three first. The Ministers thereof receiv’d formerly their Benefices from the Bishop ofCanterbury, inCromwell’s time from theTryers, as they were call’d; but of late, since the King’s Restauration, from the Bishop ofCanterburyagain.
The best Houses belonging to theEnglishwere built by Mr.Warner, Mr.Rich, Mr.Evrard, and Col.Geffreysonall successively Governors of the Place.
Their success at their first Landing.
It was in the Year 1625. that theEnglishandFrenchjointly (DesnambucCommanding theFrench, andThomas WarnertheEnglish) Landed on this Island ofSt. Christophers, at a certain time when theCaribbeeans, perswaded by theirBoyezto destroy all Strangers, were ready up in Arms, but they met with such Entertainment, that they soon lost their Courage, and yielded possession to the Assailants: Not long after whichDesnambucandWarnerwent (the one toParis, and the other toLondon) to inform their Kings of the Condition ofSt. Christophers, and to raise a Company which might promote the Planting of it: Both attain’d their Desires, and had fresh Assistance given them; for both Kings favor’d the Design, in regard of the good Conditions that were propos’d to those that should go Undertakers thither: And to prevent all Contentions between theEnglishandFrench, they made Boundaries on each side; but Hunting, Harbors, Fishing, Mines, Trees for Wainscoting, and the like, were to remain in common; and each was to assist the other. TheEnglishPlantation increased daily more than theFrench; having constant Supplies from theCompany inLondon; when as on the contrary, the Merchants atParisgrew weary, being desirous first to have a Return for what they had already spent, though the Countrey was not yet Manur’d: whereforeDesnambucgoing thither himself, made the Company understand that they could not possibly expect to receive a Return, unless the Countrey were Planted with Tobacco, Indigo, Ginger, and Sugar, which requir’d both Time and People. But whilst the Business seem’d to go on prosperously, a great Accident hapned which threw down the Work to nothing: for theSpanishKing set out a Fleet within the fore-mention’d Year, of one and thirty Gallions, three Galeasses, and four Pinnaces, with seventy five hundred Men, under the Command ofFrederick de Toledo,Emanuel de Mineses, andJohn Fajardo, fromCadiz, when before the IslandSt. Jagothere lay at the same time twenty twoPortugueseGalleys, fourteen Carvils, carrying four thousand Men, Commanded byAntonio Nunnez Barreio, andFrancisco de Almeida, who joyning with theSpaniards, took the CitySt. Salvador, and went about wholly to chase out of theCaribbeeIsles all theEnglishandFrench: in which Attempt nineEnglishShips lying beforeNevis, were all taken byToledo, who Sail’d within Cannon-shot ofSt. Christophers, Commanded at that time by theFrenchCaptainRossey, the Forts cast up by theEnglishandFrenchnot being stor’d with Provisions nor Ammunition, and consequently no way able to endure a Siege, and the less, because the Works were not quite finish’d; neverthelessDesnambucimmediately drew up his Soldiers to the Low-land, where he lay Intrench’d along the Coast, to prevent the Enemies Landing; butRosseysuffer’d theSpaniardsto Land without the least Resistance: whereupon youngDu ParquetSallying out of the Sconces, fell valiantly upon the first Company, but being forsaken by his Men, was run down by the Multitude and kill’d: In the mean time all their Sloops full of Men Landed, insomuch thatRosseyfearing to be surrounded, left his Trench and went up into the High-lands, whereby theSpaniardsbecame Masters of the Fort, but did not pursue their Victory, as suspecting that theFrenchmight lie in Ambuscade in the next Wood; and indeed they suspected not in vain, for theFrenchhaving undermin’d their Forts, had laid Gun-powder in some of the Cellars, which firing, blew up very many of theSpaniards, whilstDesnambucEmbarquing himself, sav’d those which were not slain by the Enemy’s Sword. Mean while theEnglishrelying on the League between the King ofEnglandand theSpaniard, made no Resistance, (notwithstanding they were inform’d thatFrederick Toledohad quite ruin’d theFrenchPlantation, and put them all to the Sword) but sent Agents toToledo, to put him in mind of the League betweenSpainandEngland, which he not taking notice of, alledg’d, That PopeAlexanderthe Sixth, when a Controversie arose concerning the new Discoveries in the East and West, between the Crowns ofCastileandPortugal, had determin’d thatCastilehad sole Right to the Western World, and therefore thatSt. Christophers, being a part of the Western World, according to thePope’s Gift, belong’d to his MasterPhilip; and insisting upon that Allegation, he commanded them to quit their Right to the Place; to which purpose he restor’d them six of the nine Ships taken atNevis, on Condition that they should immediately set Sail forEngland, onely those whom the six Vessels were not able to carry, were permitted to stay on the Island till the next opportunity: After whichToledoweighing Anchor, was scarce out of sight, when theEnglishbegan to take new Courage, and gathering together to repair their ruin’d Works as well as possibly they could with what Forces they had left; for besides those who went forEnglandin the six Ships, being near two thousand, theSpanishAdmiral took six hundred choiceEnglish, which he distributed amongst his Fleet; whilestDesambucsuffer’d a great deal of hardship, not onely through ill Weather at Sea, but also forwant of Provisions; Having during this time been on the IslandsSt. Martin,Montserrat, andAntego, thinking to have possess’d himself of some or other of them in stead ofSt. Christophers, but not finding such a fruitful Soil, and convenient Situation, as what he had been forc’d to forsake, he was not forward to fix there, but rather judg’d it convenient to enquire concerning the Condition ofSt. Christophers, and at last being inform’d by a Ketch, that the Enemy was gone toHavana, and theEnglishwere busie in Tilling their Lands, he return’d to his old Station; where nevertheless their Endeavors to repair what was ruin’d, had been in vain, by reason of the scarcity of Provisions, and want of other Necessaries, had not in their greatest extremity someNetherlandVessels arriving there, furnish’d them with Provisions, Clothes, and other Necessaries, on bare promises of payment: But not long after growing rich with Tobacco, Sugars, Ginger, and Indigo, they made Satisfaction to all their Creditors, and at last attain’d to the Condition before mention’d.
In the late War between Us and theDutch, theFrenchtaking advantage of our Engagement, endeavor’d to destroy our Plantations there, and to make themselves Masters of the whole Island; but the Matter being at last brought to some Agreement, SirCharles Wheelerhath been very lately sent over thither by His Majesty to re-settle Affairs there, and order the Capitulations between theFrenchandEnglish.