Situation and Description of the Province ofLima.
Lima, call’d alsoLos Reyos, hath on the East,Collao, and some part ofCusco; on the North,Los Quixos; and on the South,Charcas. The Countrey extendeth it self in length upon the Coasts of the South Sea two hundred and fifty, some say, full three hundred Leagues in length,viz.fromCape del AguiaNorthward, on the Borders ofQuitoas far asArequipatowards the South, and runs Eastward toBrasileandRio de la Palma.
The several Valleys of this Province.
In this Province are several very pleasant Valleys, the first whereof isMotupe, to which a sandy Way leads fromSt. Miguel de Valverde, between barren Wilds, from whence several Streams falling are immediately drunk up by the Sand; wherefore all Travellers that go that way carry Water and Wine with them inCalabashesfor twenty Leagues together, which they Walk or Ride by Night, because of the excessive heat of the Sun.
In the ValleyMotupegrow abundance of Trees, which receive nourishment from a River that springs up near the same. Here is also much Cotton.
Not far from hence are the ValleysXayanca, formerly very populous and full of Palaces: The River which flows through the middle is led in Trenches amongst the neighboring Fields.
The ValleyTuquemeis also very pleasant, and the decay’d Palaces, sufficiently testifie its former splendor.
The next beingCinto, is no way inferior toTuqueme; and between both lie sandy Hills and barren Rocks, on which grow neither Trees nor Herbs, nor is any living Creature to be found upon them: the Way through which being a whole days Journey, cannot be travell’d without sure Guides.
The ValleyCollique, water’d by a River of the same Denomination, and very thick set with Trees, was formerly very populous, but since theSpanishWars it is become quite desolate; for not onely a considerable number of them were slain by theSpaniards, but also many destroy’d themselves, Wives and Children; of whichPeter Martyr, Councellor to the EmperorCharlesthe Fifth, sets down several terrible Examples, of which two were remarkable above the rest; the first was after this manner:
Two tragical Passages.
TheSpanishCaptainOlandusLying with the Daughter of anIndian Casique, question’d when she grew big with Child, Whether she was with Child by him? and that he might know the real truth by Torture, he caus’d her to be ty’d naked to a woodden Spit, and laid to roast against a Fire made of green Wood, so that she died in a most miserable manner; upon which her Father ran in a rage with thirty of his Companions toOlandus’s House, where he kill’d his whole Family, and locking all the Doors about the House, set fire on the same, into which when it was at its greatest heighth, he and his Associates leap’d into the middle thereof.
The second Accident is also very terrible,viz.AnIndianMaid being Got with Child by aSpanishAss-driver, acquainted her Father and Mother with it, withaltelling them that she was ready to suffer Death for her Offence; and notwithstanding they freely pardoning, and perswading her to the contrary, she eat rawJuca, which when boyl’d is a wholsom Food, but if eaten raw, certain though languishing Death; which she perceiving, ran to the next River, where after having wash’d her self, she broke off from a large Tree a Bough of five Foot long, and making the end thereof very sharp, fell upon the same, and so kill’d her self. Several other Ravish’d Maids taking example hereby, hang’d themselves upon the Boughs of the same Tree.
But to proceed in our Description, next toColliquelies the ValleyZana, of the like bigness, and famous for the CityMiraflores.
The next isPascayamo, which exceeds all the former in fruitfulness, and populousness of Inhabitants, who before they were destroy’d by theIngaswere much fear’d by their Neighbors. This Valley also was adorn’d with several fair Temples, which are now turn’d into Cloysters. Cattel, Hogs, and Goats breed here in very great numbers. The chief Trade of this Place consists in Cotton and Linnen.
The ValleyChacama, in which theDominicanMonks inhabit a brave Cloyster, produces abundance of Sugar.
Four Leagues farther lies the spacious ValleyChimo, so call’d from an oldPeruvianHeroe, which affords a pleasant Prospect, by reason of the many Banquetting-houses built there by theIngas. No place inPeruis able to stand in competition with this for plenty of Provisions, the Ocean and Rivers producing store of Fish, the Countrey affording Cattel and all manner of Fruit. The Cotton which grows here is Shipp’d to the South Sea.
Chancais a Valley chiefly considerable for the TownArnedo, which is situate therein, of which more hereafter.
But the ValleyGuanape, not far fromChanca, yields the bestPeruvianLiquorChica, and hath a convenient Harbor for Ships.
The PlainSantabeing overflow’d in the Winter, is all overgrown for want of Inhabitants, who were all destroy’d by theSpaniards. The Woods hereabouts swarm with a sort of venomous Bug, which exceedingly torments the Traveller.
Spilbergen’s Attempt.
Next follow in order the ValleysGuambaico, very fruitful, andGuarney, abounding with Horses, Hogs, and other Cattel.Joris SpilbergenLanding hereAnno 1615.found the Haven secure against all Winds, and between the Shore and the VillageGuarmeya Creek, and somewhat farther a fresh-Water Pool; on one side of which stood a decay’d Castle built of square Stone, whereon theHollandersset theStatesFlag, and Garrison’d the same to secure those that fetch’d Water out of the foremention’d Pool. In the aforesaid Village stood a Church with a spiry Steeple; behind which rose high Mountains, and at the Foot thereof a great Wood, into which the Inhabitants fled with all their Goods, so thatSpilbergenfound nothing but a little Meal, a few Hens, Hogs, and Oranges in their Houses, which whilest he was sending Aboard, a small Body of Horse appear’d, but immediately fled into the Woods. TheHollandersstaying here seven days, were inform’d, that the GalleyJesu Maria, Commanded by the AdmiralRodrigo Mendoza, and theSanta Anna, by the Vice-AdmiralPeter Alvares Piger, were both lost, not one Man being sav’d.
Not far from thence lies the ValleyParmonga, which though it be fruitful and pleasant, yet it is quite desolate; the Walls of a large Castle still appear, as testimonies of its being formerly inhabited; and within the said Walls also are still to be seen the Ruines of spacious Halls and fair Chambers, whose Walls are painted with wild Beasts and Birds: TheSpaniardshave digg’d all about, and undermin’dthe same, in hopes to find, together with the several dead Bodies, a Treasure buried. Two Leagues Southward from this ValleyParmongaflows the River,Guayman, by theSpaniardscall’dRio del Falcon, from a Hawk which was seen there. When any store of Rain falls here, a great part of the DaleBarranalies under Water.
GUARME
Strange manner of Hunting.
Not far from hence lie the ValleysGauraandLima; which last exceeds all others in bigness, and was formerly exceeding populous; but since the MarquessPizarrobuilt the CityLos Reyoshere, the Citizens have taken the Lands from thePeruvians. The Mines hereabouts produce Gold and Silver. Amongst other things the Inhabitants highly esteem an Herb bearing yellow Flowers, which in a short time cures a putrifi’d Wound, whereas if laid on sound Flesh it eats the same to the Bone. The Natives heretofore us’d to spend their time in Hunting, and caught their Game after this manner,viz.three or four thousand of them would meet together, and by taking Hands make a Ring of three or four Miles in circumference, and at a certain Note or Tune Sung, or loudly Exclaim’d, they drew nearer and nearer, till at last they were within Shot of the inclosed Game, whatsoever it were.
A vast Treasure found byFerdinando Pizarro.
The Countrey ofCollaohath a low Point, from which a long Cliff runs into the Sea, towards the small Island call’dIsla de Collao: On each side of the Point the Coast runs sloaping in, the one side extending North-West fromCollao, to the CliffsPiscadores; the other South-East to the second Promontory; behind which is a large Bay, where the ValleyPachacamaappears, famous for its exceeding fruitfulness, and a stately Temple built by theIngas, whereFerdinando Pizarrofound above nine hundred thousandDucats, besides what the Soldiers and Commanders took, and what the Priests had hid, which none, though miserably tortur’d, would confess.
Opposite toPachacamalies the ValleyChilca, where it never Rains, nor any Brook or Spring moistens the dry Soil, which nevertheless producesMaizand Fruit-Trees. The Natives us’d to dig large and deep Pits, in which they Sow’d andPlanted, and at every Root laid the Head of a Fish call’d aSardin, which they caught in Nets on the Sea-shore; wherein nevertheless nothing would have grown, but for the Morning Dews which fell. TheIngasalso had curious Banquetting-houses here. In these Parts there grows a sort of Tree call’dMala, of whichAcostarelates a strange Wonder of Nature, very remarkable,viz.That it flourishes and bears Fruit on that side which beholds the South, in that Season when it is Summer on the Mountains; the other which views the Sea, Blossoming and bearing Fruit when it is Summer on the Plains.
The ValleyGuarco, spacious and full of Trees, produces especially the pleasant FruitGuayavesandGuavas, as also the best Wheat inPeru; wherefore it is vended all over the Countrey. Here are also the Ruines of another stately Castle, built by theIngas, the former lustre whereof is testifi’d by its remaining Walls, which consist of exceeding great Stones, so neatly joyn’d together without Mortar, that it appears like one entire Stone; and by the decay’d Structures of several Halls, much of the curious Painting whereof is yet to be seen; from the Castle a large pair of Stairs led down to the Sea-shore. Two Leagues farther the RiverLunagunruns through the fertile Valley of the same Denomination. The fatness of this Soil is chiefly ascrib’d to the Dung of a Fowl call’dGuana, which the Natives fetch in great abundance from the Isles near the Main.
Next follows the ValleyChinca, one of the biggest in allPeru, and before theSpaniardsArrival very populous. In the time of theIngasit also shew’d a magnificent Temple Dedicated to the Sun, built byTepaja Jupangue; yet the Inhabitants still remain’d constant in the worshipping of their old IdolCinciapema. Hither theIngassent their conquer’d Princes, who on a certain time were to appear inCusco. TheDominicansat present possess here a neat Cloyster, from whence leads a plain Road to the DaleIca, water’d by the RiverPisco, which is dry in Summer; wherefore the Natives brought a Ditch from the Mountains, which since theSpaniardsdestroying the Inhabitants, is choak’d up with Sand.
Next the ValleyNascacomes in view, famous for the CastleCaxamalca, where theIngaskept all manner of Ammunition for War, besides several Tombs, out of which theSpaniardstook great Riches. This Valley is divided into several others, which for the most part produce Sugar-Canes; and through them all runs the Royal High-way, which is Wall’d in on both sides.
BeyondNascalie one behind another the ValleysHacari,Oconna,Camana, andQuilca, all of them affording good Pasture for Cattel, and Fruit, yet are most of them desolate.
The CountyLos Motilonos, thinly inhabited for want of Provisions, and divided by two Rivers, separatesMoyobambafrom the CountreyCharasmal.
Southward beyondCaxamalcaappear the CountreysGuamachuco, and a little fartherConchucosandPiscobamba, all fruitful and pleasant, and adorn’d with several Structures built by theIngas.
On the side ofPiscobambathe CountyGuarazextends it self over barren Mountains, through which theIngascut a Royal High-way, and built a strong Castle at the Entrance into the Countrey; the Inhabitants whereof being very laborious, work very diligently in the Gold-Mines.
The TerritoryPincos, water’d by a River, and famous for one of the stateliest of thePeruvianStructures, is surrounded by the CountreysGuayalcas,Turama,Bomba, andConchucos. The Mountains, though dangerous to Travellers by Lyons, great Bears, and other ravenous Beasts, afford abundance of Silver; and the fruitful Soil produces Wheat,Maiz, Grapes, Figs, Oranges, Quinces, Cittrons, Cedars, and; likewise feeds Goats, Horses, and other Cattel.
The CountreyViticos, being within the Jurisdiction ofGuanuco, lies amongst the MountainsAndes, whetherInga Mangofled, when theSpaniardsmade themselves Masters ofPeru.
Chief Towns and Places of note.
The Towns and Places most observable and important in it belonging to theSpaniards, are 1.Miraflores, as theSpaniardscall it, a well seated and wealthy Town in the Valley ofZanu, as above mention’d, five Leagues distant from the Sea, where it hath likewise a good Haven or Port.
2.Truxillo, two or three Leagues distant from the Sea; the Haven whereof is said to be large, but not safe. The Town it self is seated in the ValleyChinco, upon the Banks of a pleasant River, whose Water doth not onely run through several Channels to moisten the Fields, but also to accommodate every House in the City: It hath broad Streets, a great Market-place, four Cloysters, two for theDominicans, one for theAugustines, and the other for theFranciscans; one great Church, five hundred Houses, and a Palace, inhabited by the King’s Collectors, and many Banquetting-houses about it. The good situation and fruitfulness of the Soil, mov’d the MarquessFrancisco Pizarroto build this City hereAnno 1533.but the Haven belonging to the same lies open to all manner of Winds, so that the Ships Ride here in great danger.
3.La Parilla, otherwise call’dSanta, fourteen Leagues beyondTruxilloSouthward, wash’d by the Southern Ocean, and one side by a fresh-water Stream, which being inclos’d between stony Cliffs, makes a secure Harbor.
4.Arnedo, seated ten Leagues Northward fromLima, amongst the Vineyards of the ValleyChancas; otherwise having no great matter in it remarkable, but a fairDominicanCloyster.
Prizes taken here by SirFran. Drake.
Spilbergenattempts the Place in vain.
5.Lima, by theSpaniardscommonly call’dLa Cividad de los Reyes, orThe City of Kings, so nam’d becausePizarro, who built it, laid the first Stone onTwelfth-day, Anno 1553.which they callThe Feast of the Kings: It is seated in the Valley ofLima, (from whence the City is also so denominated) one of the fruitfullest Parts of allPeru, and so neatly built, that all the chief Streets of the City open upon a fair Market-place, orPiazza, of such a large Square, that upon the sides thereof are built, in a stately and convenient manner, the Cathedral, the Palace of the Archbishop, the Vice-Roy’s Palace and Courts of Justice, with the Exchequer or Publick Treasury, the Town-house or place where the City Magistrates meet and hold their Courts, the Publick Armory or Magazine, and a Free-School, wherein are taught by theJesuitsall Arts and Sciences, and also theIndianLanguage, and divers other fair Buildings of the Nobility and better sort of Citizens. No Countrey under the Heavens affords a more fruitful or pleasanter Place than this; the temperate Climate neither troubling the Inhabitants with excessive Heats or great Colds, nor terrifying them with Thunder or Lightning, but having almost perpetual Sun-shine and fair Weather; onely the three Winter Moneths, wherein there falls a sweet-smelling Dew, which cures the Head-ache; and there die but very few of pestilential Distempers. The Countrey about the City is pleasant without exception. The Pigeons which are kept here in curious Houses built on purpose, flie a thousand in a Flight. The Fields abound also with Cattel. The Orchards and Gardens flourish with all sorts of Trees and Plants, whereof those that are brought hither fromSpaingrow better than in their natural Countrey. The West side of the City is wash’d by a pure & clear Stream, which stores the Market with great plenty of good Fish, it being distant but a Musquet shot, especially when the Water rises. This River is of great consequence, for it not onely waters the whole Valley ofLimawith its several Branches, but also runs under every House in the City, beingbuilt on Stone Arches; they are onely one Story high, because there is no Wood to be had in the Valley ofLimabut what in three years becomes all Woorm-eaten; nevertheless the Houses are very beautiful both within and without; the Walls being very thick and strong, have curious Arbors of green Boughs on the top, in which the Owners shade themselves from the Sun. Most of the Houses built in the high Streets have pleasant Turrets, which face the Market-place, where all sorts of Provisions are brought to Sale, as Oxen, Sheep, Venison, Sugar, Oranges, Cittrons, Grapes, and Wheat, which is ground in Water-Mills built near the River. This City is inhabited by many able Merchants, which often load Ships toPanama, that are valu’d at above two hundred thousandDucats. To the Arch-bishop’s See of this Place belongs the Bishopricks ofChili,Charcas,Quito,Cusco,Truxillo,Guanuco,Popaian,San Francisco,Panama,Nicaragua, andRio de la Plata. The City is also adorn’d with two fair Churches, besides the Cathedral, and also other lesser Churches, four stately Cloysters, two Nunneries, and theJesuitsPalace, which is very magnificent. The Haven two Leagues distant from it, and call’dCallao de Lima, is large and secure for Ships.Anno 1579.SirFrancis Draketook twelve Ships from hence, one whereof was laden with Linnen and Silk, besides a great Chest full of Silver: Which Inconvenience to prevent for the future, theSpaniardshave built two strong Forts, and fortifi’d them with Brass Guns. Thirty years after SirFrancis Drake’s Exploit,Joris Spilbergencoming to Anchor here, found the Place all inhabited, a Fort well stor’d with Guns, and a strong Castle before the Mouth of the Harbor, from whence they shot Bullets of thirty six Pound weight at theHollanders, and so shatter’d their Frigat, call’dThe Hunter, that she could scarce keep above Water: FourteenSpanishMerchant-men lying near the Shore, receiv’d little damage,Spilbergennot being able for Shelves to get to them, neither did he judge it convenient to Land, the Vice-Roy having at that time above four thousand Men in Arms, besides several Troops of Horse; wherefore after having fir’d several Guns on the Fort, and against the Church, he set Sail toGuarmey.
6.Cannete, otherwise call’dGuarco, from the Valley wherein it is situate: It was built by theSpaniardsout of the Treasure which they found in the Castle afore spoken of in the same Valley.
7.Valverde, situate in a Valley of the same Name, where excellent Fruit may be had for a small Price; it is a well Traded and rich Town, about sixteen Leagues distant from the Sea.
8.Pachacama, situate in a Territory of the same Name, four Leagues Southward ofLima, memorable chiefly forPizarro’s good fortune here, who is reported to have found in one onely old Temple of the Natives, the quantity of nine hundred thousandDucatsof Gold and Silver, besides what his Soldiers are suppos’d to have seiz’d on, and convey’d away before he came.
9.Castro Verreina, threescore Leagues distant fromLimato the South-East: It lieth in the Valley ofChocolocha, and is a rich Place, by reason of the good Mines of Silver which are about it, and abundance of the best sort of Tobacco.
10.Miguel de la Ribera, in the Valley ofCamana. The Inhabitants whereof drive a great Trade in Wine, Figs, and Raisins.
11. The CityArequipa, which extends up towards the Mountains, is built in the DaleQuilca, which runs eleven Leagues from the Sea, under a healthful Climate; but in the Year 1582. it was wholly ruin’d by an Earthquake; the reason whereof is ascrib’d to the wet sulphurous Mountains, which burns continually, and sometimes vomits out Flames and Ashes. The MarquessPizarrobuilt this City forty six years before the fore-mention’d Earthquake, since which being re-built again,soon attain’d to three hundred Houses, besides a Church and Cloyster; and though it be but a small Town, yet it is of a great resort, because the Gold and Silver is brought hither from the MinesChancos,Porco, andPotosi, and from thence sent down the RiverQuilca, which washing the City Walls runs into the South Sea toLos Reyos, and from thence toPanama,Nombre de Dios, andNew Spain. The Jurisdiction of this CityArequipaextends it self a vast way,viz.over the spacious Valleys betweenHacariandTampaca, and up in the Countrey beyond the CountyCondesuyo, full of Hamlets and Villages; the Inhabitants whereof heretofore worshipp’d the Sun. By the Way fromArequipatoCollaolie two great Lakes, out of one of which the RiverAparimatakes its original.
12.Caxamalca, rather a Fort than a Town, in a Territory of the same Denomination, built at the Foot of a Mountain wash’d with two Rivulets, over which lead several Bridges; near which also were formerly a stately Temple Consecrated to the Sun, wonderful Palaces and Baths for theIngas, besides other magnificent Structures of Noble-men, which were the more famous forAttabaliba’s Imprisonment and Death. The Soil round about may compare with any part of the World for fertility. The Inhabitants are a peaceable ingenious People, and make curious woollen Hangings.
13.St. Juan de la Frontera, built by theSpaniardsNorth-East and by East fromCaxamalcain the CountyChiachinpoyas, full of Gold-Mines and Cattel; to which belongs not onelyChiachinpoyas, but also the CountreysGuiancasandCascainga, out of which above twenty thousandPeruvianspay Tribute to theSpanishKing. These People especially the Women, are very comely and beautiful; for which reason theIngasfetch’d their Wives and Concubines from thence. Eastward fromFronterarise the high MountainsAndes, behind which flows the great RiverMayobambaby several poor Villages inhabited by a sottish kind of People.
14.San Jago de las Valles, built in an ill place amongst the Shrubs and overflowing Rivers. In this Countrey grows a Tree which bears a juicy Fruit, not unlike an Almond in prickly Rinds, but resembling those which cover a Chesnut, concerning which Physicians have deliver’d their Opinions, That there is not a wholsomer Fruit in the whole World.
15.Leon de Guanuco, which receiv’d that Denomination from its BuilderVacca de Castro, who call’d itLeon, because he was born in theSpanishCityLeon, andGuanucofrom the stately Palace of theIngaswhich was built here: The Houses are built of Free-stone, and cover’d with Thatch. The Citizens ofLos Reyoswere much against the building of this Town, because several Lands belonging to them were taken away and given toGuanuco, where the temperate Air grants long Life and Health to the Inhabitants. The High-way, in which stand several Store-houses, formerly full of Ammunition, runs through the middle of this Countrey, where in the time of theIngasdwelt Astronomers, who by looking on the Stars pretended to tell future Events. Here the Women also us’d to be burnt alive with their Husbands.
Situation and Description ofCusco.
Cuscois the far greater part of the Province ofPeru, containing generally all theSierra, orHill-Countreys, and those parts of theAndeslikewise which lie Southward of the little Province orCantredofGuanuco, being Coasted Westward and to the North-West withLima; Eastward, withLos Quixos, and some part ofGuiana; and on the South, withCharcas; enjoying for the most part a temperate and good Air, neither over-heated with the scorching Sun in the day, nor damp’d with any cold Mists or Dews in the Evening, as some parts of the Plains ofPeruare, but well water’d with many fresh Rivers, which make the Valleys and lower Grounds of it good Pasturage, able to maintain great Herds of Cattel. The Woods are especially stor’d with theCoca, whose Leaf is accounted restorative, and with much excellent Venison.
CUSCO
The several Valleys, and other Territories belonging toCollao.
In this Province also there are some lesser Divisions of Countreys necessary to be describ’d,viz.the cold and barren CountreyBambon, jutting againstGuanuco, inhabited antiently by a valiant People, especially near the LakeChincacocha, which is ten Leagues in circumference; in the middle of it are several Cliffs and little Isles: And out of this Lake also the famous RiverDe la Platahath its original, and runs through the ValleyXauxa, receiving by the way the StreamsParcos,Bilcas,Abancay,Apurima,Yucay, and others.
The next Countreys in order towards the South areTarana, abounding with Wheat, and the eminent ValleyXauxa, surrounded with snowy Mountains. The Inhabitants by a general Name call’dGuancas, were antiently divided into three sorts,viz.theMaracabilca,Laxapalanga, andXauxa. Here were also several stately Houses built by theIngas.
Upon this Valley borders the VillageAcosnear a Moorish place full of Canes; but before you approach the Village you come near a high Plain, where the Ruines of an antient Structure appear; and somewhat farther the PalacePico: from whence the High-way directs to the BridgeAngoyaca, which leads cross the RiverXauxa; near which theIngashad several magnificent Structures, and Baths of warm Springs. Not far from hence is the VillagePicoy; between which andAngoyacathe Arm of the RiverXauxais cut with a Bridge, because in the Winter it glides so swift that they cannot Ferry over it.
FromPicoyyou go to the Wild, in whose Center stands the antient CastlePucara, (which in thePeruvianTongue signifiesInvincible Fort) where theIngasreceiv’d their Tribute from the neighboring People that live amongst the snowy Mountains.
The Banks of the great RiverVinaqueare crown’d with the Ruines of antient Structures, which (as the Natives relate) were built by foreign People; which Assertion of theirs seems to be confirm’d by the form and manner of Building, differing from theIngasStructures, which us’d to be long and narrow. Moreover, several sweet Streams, abounding with Fish, especially Crabs, glide through the Plain-Countrey out of the MountainsAndes.
Not far from hence appears the PlainChapas, and the PalacesPilcas, of which now nothing remains but a heap of Rubbish, which lies in the Center ofPeru. A fresh-water River, which gives the fore-mention’d Palaces their Denomination, glides out ofSoras, and washes the High-way and stately Temple of the Sun.
The CountreySoras, exceeding fertile, and stock’d with Gold and Silver Mines, is inhabited by a People which go Cloth’d in woollen Cloth, and for their Valor formerly much esteem’d by theIngas.
Those that inhabit the CountreyUramarare call’dChancas, whose Neighbors possess a long Tract of Land abounding with Cattel and Fruit, but of late are most of them destroy’d by theSpaniards.
The RiverAbanca, which takes its original in the Mountainous CountyParinacocha, washes several Royal Buildings, and at last discharges its Waters into the RiverXauxa.
On each side of the great RiverApurimaare erected two wonderful Stone Pillars,over which lies a most artificial Bridge built by theIngas; from whence the Highway, being cut through hard Rocks, leads up into the Countrey; where the stately Buildings ofLimatamboshew themselves; and beyond the MountainBilcacongathe ValleyXaquixaguana, inclos’d between high Rocks, comes in view, where theIngasus’d to recreate themselves in their Banquetting-houses; from whence the Highway, which is Wall’d in on both sides, runs directly through deep Moorish Grounds toCusco.
Peter Anzurezhis Journey.
Eastward fromCusco, behind theAndes, are many large Countreys, which to discover theSpaniardsspar’d neither trouble, danger, nor charge: between both they found vast Wildernesses, inaccessible Mountains, and overgrown Countreys; yet at last they opened four ways thither: the first whereof runs through the ValleyPaquiltoTono, a Village in the middle of the Mountains; from thence to the RiverOpotazi, along which it is very troublesom travelling, because of the thick Woods and steep Rocks: lastly to the hot and fruitful ValleyAbisca, and so to vast Wildernesses, overgrown with Brambles and Bushes, which prevented any farther Discovery. The second Way runs thirty Leagues farther to the Southward, through the CountreysSandia,CamataandCaravaya, toZama. Through this Way,Anno 1538. Peter Anzureztravell’d; setting out fromZama, he found many desolate Mountains, barren Wilds, and close Woods, through which he entred into the CountyTacana, and from thence to the RiverOmapalchas, inhabited on both sides by theCheriabonesandMarquires, who oppos’d him in his crossing over the River; but meeting with nothing but barren Commons, he travell’d up along the River, and view’d the CountreysMoios,Cochabamba, andChuguiabo, from whence he return’d toCollao, having lost most of his People by Hunger and Hardship. But not long after others went over theAndesto the Countreys which extend themselves East and West, some whereof travell’d throughCamata, and others throughCochabamba.
Towns and Places of note.
The principal Towns and Places of Trade in it are, 1.Bombon, situate upon the LakeChinchacocha, said to be ten Leagues in compass, begirt round about almost with Hills, and having neighborhood with many other lesser, but pleasant Villages.
2.Parcos, once a Palace Royal of theIngas, seated on the top of a little Hill, encompass’d with other Rocky and higher Mountains on all sides.
3.San Juan de Vittoria, which the MarquessPizarrobuiltAnno 1539.to secure the Way betweenLimaandCusco, from the Assaults of thePeruvians, before he absolutely conquer’d this Kingdom: the Walls are wash’d by a sweet Stream, to the great convenience of the Citizens.
4.Guamanga, a City lying in a pleasant Plain under a healthful Climate, built with Stone-houses cover’d with Tyles; the Owners whereof have great store of Land, which they Sowe with Wheat, and also breed plenty of Cattel. To this City, which is adorn’d with three Churches, five Cloysters, and a large Almshouse, above thirty thousandPeruviansbring annual Tribute. The Mines produce Gold, Silver, Copper, Iron, Lead, Sulphur, and Load-stones; near which grows the poysonous HerbMio, which kills the Cattel that chance to eat thereof. In the Woods also hereabouts feeds a Beast, whose Piss stinks at a Miles distance. This City is by some deliver’d to be the same withSan Juan de la Vittoriaabove mention’d.
5.Bilcas, another Palace of theIngas, now a good Town of the Natives, and situate, as is suppos’d, in the very midst of the Countrey ofPeru.
6.Guancavelica, a new Town, rais’d from the condition of a very poor Village, to a Place of very great Importance and Traffick, onely by the Mines of Quicksilver, which were first discover’d there in the Year 1566. byAmador Cabrera, through the assistance of aPeruviannam’dMavincopa: ThisCabreraselling his Interest for ahundred and fifty thousandDucats, Su’d the Buyer, upon pretence that he had sold it above one half under the value: whilest this was depending,Peter Ferdinando de Valascocame fromMexicotoGuamanga, to make trial of the cleansing of Silver by Quicksilver, and finding it to succeed according to his expectation, he sent great quantities of it toArica, and from thence by Land toPotosi. The King ofSpainis said to receive from this Mine ofGuancavelica, all his Charges defray’d, above a thousand Poundper Annumfor his usual fifth part: But the antient Natives regarded not these Mines so much for the Quicksilver as for the Vermilion which is found mix’d with it, wherewith they delighted very much to paint their Bodies: There is great Art now us’d in the separating of the Quicksilver from the Vermilion.
This Town was long since inhabited by two thousandSpaniardsat least, and twice as many Natives.
The original of the CityCusco.
7.Cusco, which is the Metropolis of the Kingdom ofPeru, built on a hard Ground, surrounded with Mountains, under a cold, yet wholsom Climate, and wash’d by two Rivers, which on the East side ofCuscoparting, one runs direct West, and the other Southward. One part of the City antiently bore the Denomination ofHaran-Cusco, and the second,Oren-Cusco, where the chief Nobility and most antient Families dwelt. Concerning the original of this Place, thePeruvianssay, That several Ages past there appear’d three Men, call’dAyrache,Aranca, andAjarmango, and with them three Women, nam’dMamacola,Mamacona, andMamaragua, all of them very richly Cloth’d; thatAyrachehad a Precious Stone at the end of a Truncheon, which by holding up he rais’d the Mountains to the Skies, and when he let it fall, levell’d them with the lowest Valleys:ArancaandAjarmangoconcluded to build a stately City, and sent for People from remote Countries to inhabit it; with which Design the Natives thereabouts seem’d to be well pleas’d: but before they went to work they judg’d it convenient to destroyAyrache, whose great Power they envy’d: This being resolv’d upon, they invited him to a deep narrow-mouth’d Cave, that there they might worship the Sun his Father (for so Descended he took upon him to be), he was no sooner entred but the rest shut the Mouth of the Cave with great Stones, hoping so to starve him to death; whichAyracheobserving, stood amaz’d a while, till at last he threw off all the Stones, and flew with great and divers colour’d Wings up into the Air, crying aloud,Fear not, ArancaandAjarmango,though you have design’d to take away my Life, but build a City in this place, and call itCusco;for in it shall stand the Seat of theIngas,under whose Jurisdiction extending far and near, many great Nations shall bow. The Temple which the Gods have there design’d shall not onely exceed all other Structures in the World, in Art and Costliness, but be famous for strange Offerings to the Sun. If the Citizens build Altars for me, burn Myrrh, and make Offerings to me, they may certainly expect to vanquish all their Enemies, and increase their Power. According to my Example bore Holes through your Ears, as a sign of Obedience.All whichAranca,Ajarmango, and the fore-mention’d Women promis’d to perform. WhereuponAyrachegave them a rich Diadem with a Tassel, which was to be the Head-Ornament of the succeedingIngas; which they had no sooner receiv’d, butAyracheandArancawere turn’d into Stones, yet retaining their former shape; whichAjarmangoobserving, fell straight, together with the three Women, upon building the CityCusco. After the Deluge breaking out of the HoleTambo, he chang’d his Name ofAjarmangoforMangocapa, that is,Mighty Lord, and made himself, as they say, the firstPeruvianKing. The CityCuscowas divided into four Wards, the East call’dAndosayo, the SouthCallasayothe North,Chinchasuyo, and the WestCondesayo, every one so call’d from the Countreys, to which the Gates of the four Wards are oppos’d.
If any one coming out of another Countrey, setled himself inCusco, as it hapneddaily, he was permitted to dwell no where but in that Ward which fronted his native Countrey. The four high Streets, which through these Wards one way fall into the Market-place, being in the middle of the City, are the other way answerable to the four principal High-ways,viz.that which leads toQuitoandPasto, throughChinchasuyo; toArehuipa, throughCondesuyo; to the MountainsAndes, throughAndesuyo; and toChili, throughCollasuyo. The two Rivers before mention’d, which part at the East end of the City, are pass’d over with divers Bridges. The narrow Streets are full of Stone Houses, built in good Order. In several places are Vaulted Cellars under Ground, in some of which are buried great Treasures: they had been formerly the Habitations for Necromancers and Soothsayers; for this sort of People were once in great esteem amongst the Inhabitants, who coming fromChili,Pasto,Bocamores,Topona,Bombon,Charcas,Collao,Chiachiapoias,Conchucos, and otherPeruvianCountreys, receive great benefit from the fresh Water, and from the Corn-Mills built on the Streets through the City.
The antient Palaces and other stately Structures inCusco.
The stately Palaces which thePeruvianNobility have at several times built inOren-Cusco, being one part of the City, are very wonderful, the Owners whereof were forc’d by theIngasto appear at Court at Set-times, that so he might prevent all Insurrections: Also he caus’d the Children of the prime Lords to be brought up inCusco, under pretence that they might learn theCuscoanTongue perfectly, in which theIngaswould always be spoken to; whenas their Design was to keep them as Hostages in their own Jurisdictions, that their Fathers might not rebel; by which means it hapned, that in most places ofPeru, which amongst the several Tribes and Principalities had several Languages, theCuscoanTongue was understood and spoken. But theSpaniards, who are the present Possessors thereof, have alter’d and repair’d most of the ordinary Houses, which are now neatly built of Stone. Above all the old Structures, the Palace of theIngas, and the Temple of the Sun, are the most magnificent; the Palace lies inclos’d within a square quadruple Wall, each corner whereof is adorn’d and strengthned with a Tower: The Palace it self is built round, and with Arches; but that which chiefly amazes the Beholder, is to see how the Stones, which are so big that forty Horses are not able to stir one of them out of its place, were brought thither by the Labor of the Builders from the neighboring Mountains; for thePeruviansnever made use of any laboring Beast, except their SheepPacos, not knowing the use of Horses, Camels, Oxen, Elephants, or the like, before theSpaniardscoming thither. The Halls within the Palace were Wainscoted with Golden Plates: yet theInga’s Apparel was not answerable to the rest of his Pomp; for in stead of a Crown they bound their Heads about with a red woollen Sash, with which they almost cover’d their Eyes; at the end of the Sash hung certain Ribbands, which they gave the Governor as occasion offer’d, that by this Sign, as by a Commission, they might exercise their Offices; the sight of which String caus’d such Obedience, that if theIngahad commanded the Inhabitants of a Town or Countrey to murder themselves, none durst deny. TheIngawas generally carried by a hundred of his Noble-men, of whom if any one had accidentally chanc’d to stumble, he was immediately put to death. No man durst presume to look him in the Face, or speak to him without a Present.
The TempleCuricanche.
A cruel Battel between two Brothers.
The TempleCuricanche, Dedicated to the Sun, was certainly the most rich and sumptuous that ever the World boasted, it being Govern’d by the Chief PriestVillanoa. The IngaGuainacavaspent an invaluable Treasure in the building of this Structure, for he cover’d the Roof and Walls with thick Plates of massie Gold and Silver. At his return home from the Conquest of the Province ofQuito, from whence the Inhabitants, according to an antient Custom of theIngas, were carried toone of the remotest Countreys inPeru. ButGuainacavaenamor’d of aQuitoanMaid, staid a considerable time in the CityQuito, and kept a splendid Wedding at the Marriage of his Bride, who bare unto him the famousAttabaliba, whom he lov’d beyond all his other Children, and a little before his death made him King ofQuito. ButHuascarafterGuainacava’s Decease would not suffer his Brother to live in the late conquer’d Kingdom ofQuito, but gave him Battel in the Plain ofTomebamba, which lasted three days and three Nights, and after much Blood-shed,Attabalibabeing defeated was taken Prisoner, and not long after making his Escape by the help of an antient Woman (whilestHuascar’s Commanders and Soldiers rejoyc’d with Cups full ofChicafor their gotten Victory) he made his Subjects inQuitobelieve, that he being transform’d into a Serpent, crept through a little Hole out of the Prison; and that he had a Promise from Heaven to obtain Conquest overHuascar; which being believ’d, stirr’d up all his Subjects to take up Arms, and valiantly to go and meet the Enemy, whom they not onely defeated, but tookHuascarPrisoner.
Zairesthe Son ofMango Ingasubmits to theSpaniards.
Huascarbeing destroy’d byAttabaliba, andAttabalibabyPizarro,Mango Ingatheir youngest Brother took the Government upon him, made continual Sallies upon theSpaniardsfrom inaccessible Mountains, and at his Decease left the remaining part ofPeruto his SonZaires Topa; who seeing no good to be done by force of Arms, submitted himself freely to the King ofSpain’s Jurisdiction in the Year 1557. since which theSpaniardshave been sole Masters.
There are at this day four great Churches inCusco: Also theDominicans,Franciscans,Augustines, and the MonksDe la Merced, have each of them stately Cloysters here: but theJesuitsStructure exceeds all the other.
Above forty thousandPeruvianspay annual Tribute to this City. In the Valley about the City feed abundance of Cattel; also Wheat, and all manner of Herbs grow here in great plenty. The Gold and Silver-Mines have not that resort which they had formerly, most of the Workmen being remov’d toPotosi.
Concerning the Service which they perform’d in the fore-mention’d Temple of the Sun, and their superstitious Opinions about their IdolCon, they are much of the same ridiculous nature with what hath been already Discours’d of in other places. Five Leagues Southwardly fromCuscolies the ValleyYucaybetween high snowy Mountains, under a temperate Climate and pleasant Soil. Not far from hence theIngasbuilt a most invincible Castle on a Rock, which was surrounded with many cliffy Walls one above another; these Walls were also Carv’d with Images of Lyons, Tygers, and other wild Beasts, which held Lances in their Paws; the top of the Rock was crown’d with a Royal Structure built of Stone, through which ran Golden Veins, joyn’d together with a certain Gum, by some call’dJews-Lime. To the Province ofCondesuyobelong the valiant PeopleChumbibalcasandUbinas. In the CountyPomatambothey make Carpets of fine Wooll, curiously Painted.
8. The CityFrancisco de Vittoria, which lies in the rough ValleyVilcabamba, and is inclos’d by the MountainsAndes, belonging to the Jurisdiction of the ProvinceAndésuyo.
9. The VillageJuan del Oro, which is the chief Place of the CountreyCaravaya, and so call’d by theSpaniardsfrom the fine Gold which is found there in great abundance.