i07631. CROSS-WIRE TRAINING.
31. CROSS-WIRE TRAINING.
i07732. CROSS-WIRE TRAINING. OUTSIDE VIEW.
32. CROSS-WIRE TRAINING. OUTSIDE VIEW.
Renewal Kniffin.—It is an easy matter to adapt the Kniffin principle of free hanging shoots to a true renewal method of pruning. There are a few modifications in use in which the wood is annually renewed to near the ground. The trellises comprise either two or three wires, and are made in the same manner as for the upright systems, as the High Renewal. At the annual pruning only one cane is left. This comprises twelve or fifteen buds, and is tied up diagonally across the trellis, the point or end of the cane usually being bent downward somewhat, in order to check the strong growth from the uppermost parts. The shoots hang from this cane, and they may be pinched back when they reach the ground. In the meantime a strong shoot is taken out from the opposite side of the head—which usually stands a foot or less from the ground—to make the bearing wood of the next year; and this new cane will be tied in an opposite direction on the trellis from the present bearing cane, and the next renewal shoot will be taken from the other side of the head, or the side from which the present bearing wood sprung; so that the bearing top of the vine is alternated in either direction upon the trellis. This system, and similar ones, allow of laying down the vines easily in winter, and insure excellent fruit becausethe amount of bearing wood is small; but the crop is not large enough to satisfy most demands.
The Munson System.—An unique system of training, upon the Kniffin principle, has been devised by T. V. Munson, of Denison, Texas, a well-known authority upon grapes. Two posts are set in the same hole, their tops diverging. A wire is stretched along the top of these posts and a third one is hung between them on cross-wires. The trunk of the vine, or its head, is secured to this middle lower wire and the shoots lop over the side wires. The growth, therefore, makes a V-shaped or trough-like mass of herbage.Fig. 33is an end view of this trellis, showing the short wire connecting the posts and which also holds the middle trellis-wire at the point of the V.Fig. 34is a side view of the trellis. The bearing canes, two or four, in number, which are left after the annual pruning, are tied along this middle wire. The main trunk forks just under the middle wire, as seen at the left infig. 34. A head is formed at this place not unlike likethat which characterizes the High Renewal, for this system also employs renewal pruning. The trellis stands six feet high. The shoots stand upright at first, but soon fall down and are supported by the side wires. The following account of this system of training is written for this occasion by Mr. Munson:
"After the vines have flowered, the bearing laterals have their tips pinched off, and that is all the summer pruning the vine gets, except to rub off all eyes that start on the body below the crotch. Two to four shoots, according to strength of vine, are started from the forks or crotch and allowed to bear no fruit, but are trained along over the lower central wire for renewal canes. When pruning time arrives, the entire bearing cane of the present year, with all its laterals, is cut away at a point near where the young renewal shoots have started, and these shoots are shortened back, according to strength of vine; some, such as Herbemont, being able at four years to fill four shoots six or eight feet long with fine fruit, while Delaware could not well carry over three or four feet each way of one shoot only. The different varieties are set at various distances apart, according as they are strong or weak growers.
i07933. MUNSON TRAINING. END VIEW.
33. MUNSON TRAINING. END VIEW.
"Thus the trellis and system of pruning are reduced to the simplest form. A few cuts to each vine cover all the pruning, and a few ties complete the task. A novice can soon learn to do the work well. The trunk or main stem is secured to the middle lower wire, along which all bearing canes aretied after pruning, and from which the young laterals which produce the crop are to spring. These laterals strike the two outer wires, soon clinging to them with their tendrils, and are safe from destruction, while the fruit is thrown in the best possible position for spraying and gathering, and is still shaded with the canopy of leaves. I have now used this trellis five years upon ten acres of mixed vines, and I am more pleased with it every year.
i08034. MUNSON TRAINING. SIDE VIEW.
34. MUNSON TRAINING. SIDE VIEW.
"The following advantages are secured by this system:
"1. The natural habit of the vine is maintained, which is a canopy to shade the roots and body of vine and the fruit, without smothering.
"2. New wood, formed by sap which has never passed through bearing wood, is secured for the next crop—a very important matter.
"3. Simplicity and convenience of trellis, allowing free passage in any direction through the vineyard; circulation of air without danger of breaking tender shoots; ease of pruning, spraying, cultivation, harvesting.
"4. Perfect control in pruning of amount of crop to suit capacity of vine.
"5. Long canes for bearing, which agrees exactly with the nature of nearly all our American species far better than short spurs.
"6. Ease of laying down in winter. The vine beingpruned and not tied, standing away from posts, can be bent down to one side between the rows, and earth thrown upon it, and can be quickly raised and tied in position.
"7. Cheapness of construction and ease of removing trellis material and using it again.
"8. Durability of both trellis and vineyard."
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MISCELLANEOUS SYSTEMS.
Horizontal Training.—There are very few types of horizontal shoot training now in use. The best is probably that shown infig. 35. This particular vine is a Delaware, to which this training is well adapted. It will be noticed that this picture represents theend of a trellis, and the diagonal stick seen near the ground is a brace for the end post. Two wires run from post to post, one about two and one-half feet above the ground and the other five and one-half feet high. The posts are set at the ordinary distance of 16 or 18 feet apart. The vines are set six or eight feet apart, if Delawares. A strong stake is driven in the ground behind each vine, standing as high as the top of the trellis when set. The permanent trunk or head of the vine stands about a foot high. The vine is renewed back to the top of this trunk every year. One cane is left at each pruning, which, when tied up to the stake, is as high as the trellis. From this perpendicular cane, the bearing shoots are carried out horizontally. About six of these shoots are allowed to grow upon either side of the cane. As the shoots grow, they are tied to perpendicular slats which are fastened on the wires. These slats do not touch the ground. Two slats are provided upon either side, making four to a vine. They stand a foot or fifteen inches apart. The clusters hang free from the horizontal shoots. If the shoots grow too long, they are pinched in when they have passed the second slat. While these shoots are covering the trellis, another shoot is taken out from the head or trunk of the vine and, without being allowed to fruit, is tied up along the central stake. This shoot is to form the top next year, for all the present vine is to be entirely cut away atthe winter's pruning. So the vine starts every spring with but a single cane.
i08435. HORIZONTAL TRAINING.
35. HORIZONTAL TRAINING.
Excellent results are obtained from the slender growing varieties by this method of training, but it is too expensive in trellis and in labor of tying to make it generally practicable. Delaware, however, thrives remarkably well when trained in this fashion.
Post Training.—There are various methods of training to posts, all of which possess two advantages—the saving of the expense of trellis and allowing of cultivation both ways. But they also have grave disadvantages, especially in the thickness of the head of foliage which harbors rot and mildew and prevents successful spraying, and hinders the fruit from coloring and ripening well. These faults are so serious that post training is now little used for the American grapes. The saving in cost of trellis is not great, for more posts are required to the acre than in the trellis systems, and they do not endure long when standing alone with the whole weight of the vines thrown upon them.
i08736. LOW POST TRAINING.
36. LOW POST TRAINING.
There are various methods of pruning for the stake training, but nearly all of them agree in pruning to side spurs upon a permanent upright arm which stands the full height of the vine. There may be one or two sets of these spurs. We might suppose the Kniffin vine, shown infig. 22, to be tied to a post instead of stretched on a trellis; inthat event, the four canes would hang at will, or they might be wrapped about the post, the shoots hanging out unsupported in all directions. The post systems are essentially Kniffin in principle, for the shoots hang free. In low styles of post training, the permanent head of the vine may be only three or four feet high. This head will have a ring of spurs on it, and at the annual pruning three to five canes with from six to ten buds each are left.Fig. 36is a view in such a post vineyard.
The main trunk is usually tied permanently to the post. The canes left after pruning are variously disposed. Sometimes they are bent upwards and tied to the post above the head of the vine, but they are oftenest either wound loosely about the post, or are allowed to hang loose. Two trunks are frequently used to each post, both coming from the ground from a common root. These are wound about the post in opposite directions, one outside the other, and if the outside one is secured at the top by a small nail driven through it, or by a cord, no other tying will be necessary. Sometimes two or three posts are set at distances of one foot or more apart, and the vines are wrapped about them, but this only augments the size and depth of the mass of foliage. Now and then one sees a careful post training, in which but little wood is left and vigorous breaking out of shoots practiced, which gives excellent results; buton the whole, it cannot be recommended. The European post and stake systems or modifications of them, are yet occasionally recommended for American vines, but under general conditions, especially in commercial grape growing, they rarely succeed long. One of the latest recommendations of any of these types is that of the single pole system of the Upper Rhine Valley, by A. F. Hofer, of Iowa, in a little treatise published in 1878.
Arbors.—Arbors and bowers are usually formed with little reference to pruning and training. The first object is to secure shade and seclusion, and these are conditions which may seriously interfere with the production of fine grapes. As a rule, too much wood must be allowed to grow, and the soil about arbors is rarely ever cultivated. Still, fair results in fruit can be obtained if the operator makes a diligent use of the pruning shears. It is usually best to carry one main or permanent trunk up to the top or center of the arbor. Along this trunk at intervals of two feet or less, spurs may be left to which the wood is renewed each year. If the vines stand six feet apart about the arbor—which is a satisfactory distance—one cane three feet long may be left on each spur when the pruning is done. The shoots which spring from these canes will soon cover up the intermediate spaces. At the close of the season, this entire cane with its laterals is cut away at the spur, and another three-foot cane—which grew during the season—is left inits place. This pruning is essentially that of the Kniffin vine infig. 22. Imagine this vine, with as many joints or tiers as necessary, laid upon the arbor. The canes are tied out horizontally to the slats instead of being tied on wires. This same system—running up a long trunk and cutting in to side spurs—will apply equally well to tall walls and fences which it is desired to cover. Undoubtedly a better plan, so far as yield and quality of fruit is concerned, is to renew back nearly to the root, bringing up a strong new cane, or perhaps two or three every year, and cutting the old ones off; but as the vines are desired for shade one does not care to wait until midsummer for the vines to reach and cover the top of the arbor.
Remodeling Old Vines.—Old and neglected tops can rarely be remodeled to advantage. If the vine is still vigorous, it will probably pay to grow an entirely new top by taking out a cane from the root. If the old top is cut back severely for a year or two, this new cane will make a vigorous growth, and it can be treated essentially like a new or young vine. If it is very strong and ripens up well, it can be left long enough the first fall to make the permanent trunk; but if it is rather weak and soft, it should be cut back in the fall or winter to two or three buds, from one of which the permanent trunk is to be grown the second season. Thereafter, the instructions which are given in the preceding pages for the various systems, will apply tothe new vine. The old trunk should be cut away as soon as the new one is permanently tied to the wires, that is, at the close of either the first or second season of the new trunk. Care must be exercised to rub off all sprouts which spring from the old root or stump. If this stump can be cut back into the ground and covered with earth, better results may be expected. Old vines treated in this manner often make good plants, but if the vines are weak and the soil is poor, the trouble will scarcely pay for itself.
These old vines can be remodeled easily by means of grafting. Cut off the trunk five or six inches below the surface of the ground, leaving an inch or two of straight wood above the roots. Into this stub insert two cions exactly as for cleft-grafting the apple. Cions of two or three buds, of firm wood the size of a lead-pencil, should be inserted. The top bud should stand above the ground. The cleft will need no tying nor wax, although it is well to place a bit of waxed cloth or other material over the wound to keep the soil out of it. Fill the earth tightly about it.Fig. 37shows the first year's growth from two cions of Niagara set in a Red Wyoming root. Great care must be taken in any pruning which is done this first year, or the cions may be loosened. If the young shoots are tied to a stake there will be less danger from wind and careless workmen. In the vine shown in the illustration, no pruning nor rubbing out was done, butthe vine would have been in better shape for training if only one or two shoots had been allowed to grow. Such a vine as this can be carried onto the trellis next year; or it may be cut back to three or four buds, one of which is allowed to make the permanent trunk next year, like a two-year set vine.
i09237. A YEARLING GRAFT.
37. A YEARLING GRAFT.
If it is desired, however, to keep the old top, it will be best to cut back the annual growth heavily at the winter pruning. The amount of wood which shall be left must be determined by the vigor of the plant and the variety, but three or four canes of six to ten buds each may be left at suitable places. During the next season a strong shoot from the base of each cane may be allowed to grow, which shall form the wood of the following season, while all the present cane is cut away at the end of the year. So the bearing wood is renewed each year, as in the regular systems of training. Much skill and experience are often required to properly rejuvenate an old vine; and in very many cases the vine is not worth the trouble.
i093
i096
i097
THIS ILLUSTRATIONwas made from a photograph of fair samples of the different grades of our grape vines, reduced to one-tenth their natural size.
We take great pride and comfort in our ability to furnishstrong,fibrous-rootedstock, so well appreciated by intelligent and experienced fruit growers.
WHOLESALE TRADE ESPECIALLY SOLICITED. CATALOGUE FREE.
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We desire to call the attention of planters to our large and complete stock of Grape Vines.
We propagate and offer for sale upwards of sixty varieties, embracing the popular old sorts as well as the new ones which seem to have merit. Our catalogue contains accurate descriptions, and classifies the different varieties according to color.
Besides the above we offer an immense collection of all kinds of Fruit and Ornamental Trees, Shrubs, Roses, Hardy Plants, etc. Our General Catalogue (160 pages), embellished with numerous engravings of the most popular Trees, Shrubs, etc., and enclosed in an illuminated cover, will be mailed free to all who have not received it.
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PEAR TREES.—Lincoln, Coreless, Bessemianka, Japan Golden Russet, Kieffer, LeConte, etc., Nut Trees in variety. Fruit Trees of all sorts. Ornamentals, Eleagnus Longipes, Japanese Wineberry Juneberry, Trifoliate Orange and other valued novelties.
i099
STRAWBERRIES, Van Deman, E. P. Roe, and other new varieties; all the old standard sorts, Gooseberries, Raspberries, Blackberries, Currants, Asparagus Roots and Grape Vines.
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POPULAR ERRORS ABOUT PLANTS.—ByA. A. Crozier. A collection of errors and superstitions entertained by farmers, gardeners and others, together with brief scientific refutations. Highly interesting to students and intelligent readers of the new and attractive in rural literature, and of real value to practical cultivators who want to know the truth about their work.
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THE NURSERY BOOK.—ByL. H. Bailey. A complete handbook of Propagation and Pollination of Plants.Profusely illustrated.This valuable little manual has been compiled with great pains. The author has had unusual facilities for its preparation, having been aided by many experts. The book is absolutely devoid of theory and speculation. It has nothing to do with plant physiology or abstruse reasoning about plant growth. It simply tells, plainly and briefly, what every one who sows a seed, makes a cutting, sets a graft, or crosses a flower wants to know. It is entirely new and original in method and matter. The cuts number 107, and are made expressly for it, direct from nature. The book treats all kinds of cultivated plants, fruits, vegetables, greenhouse plants, hardy herbs, ornamental trees, shrubs and forest trees.
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Acer(Maple).Sapindaceæ.Stocks are grown from stratified seeds, which should be sown an inch or two deep; or some species, asA. dasycarpum, come readily if seeds are sown as soon as ripe. Some cultural varieties are layered, but better plants are obtained by grafting. Varieties of native species are worked upon common or native stocks. The Japanese sorts are winter-worked upon importedA. polymorphumstocks, either by whip or veneer grafting. Maples can also be budded in summer, and they grow readily from cuttings of both ripe and soft wood.
Phyllocactus, Phyllocereus, Disocactus(Leaf Cactus).Cacteæ.Fresh seeds grow readily. Sow in rather sandy soil which is well drained, and apply water as for common seeds. When the seedlings appear, remove to a light position. Cuttings from mature shoots, three to six inches in length, root readily in sharp sand. Give a temperature of about 60°, and apply only sufficient water to keep from flagging. If the cuttings are very juicy they may be laid on dry sand for several days before planting.
VII.—Pollination.
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FRUIT CULTURE, and the Laying Out and Management of a Country Home.—ByW. C. Strong, Ex-President of the Massachusetts Horticultural Society, and Vice-President of the American Pomological Society. Illustrated. New revised edition, with many additions, making it the latest and freshest book on the subject.
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Rural Homes—Choice of Locality—Treatment—A Good Lawn—The Approach. Fruits—Location of the Fruit Garden—Success in Fruit-Culture—Profit in Fruit-Culture. How to Procure Trees—Quality—How to Plant—Time to Plant—Preparing the Land—Fertilizers—Cutting Back—Distances for Planting. Care of the Fruit-Garden—Irrigation—Application of Fertilizers—Thinning the Fruit—Labels. The Apple—Insects Injurious to the Apple. The Pear—Dwarf Pears—Situation and Soil—Pruning—Ripening the Fruit—Insects Injurious to the Pear—Diseases. The Peach—Injurious Insects and Diseases of the Peach—Nectarines. The Plum—Insects and Diseases of the Plum—Apricots. The Cherry—Insects Injurious to the Cherry. The Quince—Insects Injurious to the Quince. The Grape—Grape-Houses—Varieties—Insects Injurious to the Grape—Mildew. The Currant—Insects Attacking the Currant—The Gooseberry. The Raspberry—The Blackberry. The Strawberry. The Mulberry—The Fig—Rhubarb—Asparagus. Propagating Fruit-Trees—From the Seed—By Division—By Cuttings—By Layers—By Budding—By Grafting. Insecticides—Fungicides—Recipes. Price, in one volume, 16mo., cloth, $1.
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FIRST LESSONS IN AGRICULTURE.(2nd Edition, Revised and Enlarged.)—By F. A. Gulley, M. S., Professor of Agriculture in the Agricultural College of Mississippi. This book discusses the more important principles which underlie agriculture in a plain, simple way, within the comprehension of students and readers who have not studied chemistry, botany, and other branches of science related to agriculture. It supplies a much-needed text-book for common schools, and is useful for the practical farmer. Includes all the latest developments in agricultural science as applied to the subject.
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THE NEW POTATO CULTURE.—ByElbert S. Carman. This book gives the result of 15 years' experiment work on The Rural ground. It treats particularly of: How to increase the crop without corresponding cost of production. Manures and fertilizers: kinds and methods of application. The soil, and how to put it in right condition. Depth of planting. How much seed to plant. Methods of culture. The Rural trench system. Varieties, etc., etc.
Nothing old or worn-out about this book. It treats of new and profitable methods; in fact, ofThe NEW Potato Culture. It is respectfully submitted that these experiments at The Rural grounds have, directly and indirectly, thrown more light upon the various problems involved in successful potato-culture than any other experiments that have been carried on in America.
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HORTICULTURIST'S RULE-BOOK.—By ProfessorL. H. Bailey, Editor ofAmerican Gardening, Horticulturist of the Cornell Experiment Station, and Professor of Horticulture in Cornell University. It contains in handy and concise form, a great number of Rules and Recipes required by gardeners, fruit-growers, truckers, florists, farmers, etc.
Synopsis of Contents: Injurious insects, with preventives and remedies. Fungicides for plant diseases. Plant diseases, with preventives and remedies. Injuries from mice, rabbits, birds, etc., with preventives and remedies. Waxes and washes for grafting and for wounds. Cements, paints, etc.Seed Tables: Quantities required for sowing given areas. Weight and size of seeds. Longevity of seeds. Time required for seeds to germinate.Planting Tables: Dates for sowing seeds in different latitudes. Tender and hardy vegetables. Distances apart for planting.Maturity and Yields: Time required for maturity of vegetables; for bearing of fruit plants. Average yields of crops. Keeping and storing fruits and vegetables.Propagation of Plants: Ways of grafting and budding. Methods by which fruits are propagated. Stocks used for fruits.Standard Measures and Sizes: Standard flower-pots. Standard and legal measures. English measures for sale of fruits and vegetables. Quantities of water held in pipes and tanks. Effect of wind in cooling off glass roofs. Per cent. of light reflected from glass at various angles of inclination. Weights of various varieties of apples per bushel. Amount of various products yielded by given quantities of fruit. Labels. Loudon's rules of horticulture. Rules of nomenclature. Rules for exhibition. Weather signs and protection from frost.Collecting and Preserving: How to make an herbarium. Preserving and printing of flowers and other parts of plants. Keeping cut-flowers. How to collect and preserve insects. Chemical composition of fruits and vegetables, and seeds, fertilizers, soils and vegetables.Names and Histories: Vegetables which have different names in England and America. Derivation of names of various fruits and vegetables. Names of fruits and vegetables in various languages. Glossary. Calendar.
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CROSS-BREEDING AND HYBRIDIZING:—The Philosophy of the Crossing of Plants considered with reference to their Cultivation—How to Improve plants by Hybridizing.—ByL. H. Bailey. It is the only book accessible to American horticulture which gives the reasons, discouragements, possibilities and limitations of Cross-Breeding. Every man who owns a plant should have it, if for no other reason than to post himself upon one of the leading practices of the day. The pamphlet contains also a bibliography of the subject, including over 400 entries.
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CHEMICALS AND CLOVER.—ByH. W. Collingwood, Managing Editor ofThe Rural New-Yorker. A concise and practical discussion of the all-important topic of commercial fertilizers in connection with green manuring in bringing up worn-out soils, and in general farm practice.
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ANNALS OF HORTICULTURE, Vol. IV.—Bright, New, Clean and Fresh. These Annals are entirely rewritten every year. They are theonly recordsof the progress in horticulture. Exhaustive lists of all the plants introduced in 1892, with descriptions, directories, full accounts of all new discoveries, new tools, and a wealth of practical matter forGardeners,Fruit-Growers,Florists,Vegetable-Gardeners and Landscape-Gardeners, comprise its contents.
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INSECTS AND INSECTICIDES.—A practical Manual concerning Noxious Insects and the Methods of Preventing their Injuries. ByClarence M. Weed, Professor of Entomology and Zoölogy, New Hampshire State College.
I think that you have gotten together a very useful and valuable little book.—Dr. C. V. Riley,U.S. Entomologist.
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THE CAULIFLOWER.—By A. A. Crozier. Teacher and Practical Origin and History of this increasingly important and always delicious vegetable.
The Cauliflower Industry.—In Europe. In the United States. Importation of Cauliflowers.
Management of the Crop.—Soil. Fertilizers. Planting. Cultivating. Harvesting. Keeping. Marketing.
The Early Crop.—Caution against planting it largely. Special directions. Buttoning.
Cauliflower Regions of the United States.—Upper Atlantic Coast. Lake Region. Prairie Region. Cauliflowers in the South. The Pacific Coast.
Insect and Fungous Enemies.—Flea-beetle. Cut-worms. Cabbage-maggot. Cabbage-worm. Stem-rot. Damping-off. Black-leg.
Cauliflower Seed.—Importance of careful selection. Where the seed is grown. Influence of climate. American-grown seed.
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Cooking Cauliflower.—Digestibility. Nutritive value. Chemical composition. Recipes.
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PRACTICAL FARM CHEMISTRY.—A Practical Handbook of Profitable Crop-Feeding, written for Practical Men. ByT. Greiner.
Part I. The Raw Materials of Plant-Food.
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Part III. Principles of Economic Application, or Manuring for Money.
This work, written in plainest language, is intended to assist the farmer in the selection, purchase and application of plant-foods. If you wish to learn ways how to save money in procuring manurial substances, and how to make money by their proper use, read this book. If you want your boy to learn the principle of crop-feeding, and become a successful farmer, give him a copy of this book. The cost of the book will be returned a hundred-fold to every reader who peruses its pages with care and applies its teachings to practice.
Price, cloth, $1.
SPRAYING CROPS.—Why, When and How to Do It.—ByProf. Clarence M. Weed. A handy volume of about 100 pages; illustrated. Covers the whole field of the insect and fungous enemies of crops for which the spray is used. The following topics are discussed in a concise, practical manner:
Spraying Against Insects. Feeding Habits of Insects. Spraying Against Fungous Diseases. The Philosophy of Spraying. Spraying Apparatus. Spraying Trees in Blossom. Precautions in Spraying. Insecticides used in Spraying. Fungicides used in Spraying. Combining Insecticides and Fungicides. Cost of Spraying Materials. Prejudice Against Spraying. Spraying the Larger Fruits. Spraying Small Fruits and Nursery Stock. Spraying Shade Trees, Ornamental Plants and Flowers. Spraying Vegetables, Field Crops and Domestic Animals.
Price in stiff paper cover, 50 cents; flexible cloth, 75 cents.