Experiences a sudden gale of wind.
In the course of this night, the wind blew fresh from the S.W., and an immense number of large vessels, chiefly in the Coal-trade, passed our small ship, which obliged the crew to keep a sharp look-out, to avoid the imminent danger of being run down, especially after the weather became thick. As our course lay close to Flamborough-head, we had several hairbreadth escapes; for the vessel had no sooner put about to avoid the land, than she was in danger of being run foul of by the passing vessels. In this situation things remained from about 1 o’clock on the morning of the 19th till 5, when, all of a sudden, the wind shifted, in the most surprising manner, from W.SW. to N.W., when the weather immediately clearing, was succeeded by a heavy gale, which forced our ship into Burlington-Bay, where she was safely anchored.
Storm described.
Great want of a Public Harbour on this coast.
As this was one of the most extraordinary tornadoes that the writer ever witnessed, he will endeavour to give some account of it. On the morning of the 18th, the day preceding the storm, when off Scarborough, he had requested to be called early, that he might see the coast, and enjoy the sight of the rising sun. The weather was then extremely fine, but the sun had a most piercingly brilliant appearance as it came into view upon the horizon; and he was assured by Captain Pool, that the general aspect of the heavens indicated a change of weather for the worse. In the course of the 18th the sky became cloudy, and the wind shifted from point to point, but prevailed chiefly from the S.W. At midnight, the weather was foggy, and the wind blew so fresh that the second reef was taken into the Smeaton’s mainsail, and her topmast wasstruck. During the whole of the night, a fleet of vessels passed to the northward with a fair wind: these were understood to be colliers, in ballast, on their return voyage from London to Sunderland and Newcastle. At 5A. M., however, while the Smeaton was lying-to, and waiting for day light, the wind shifted so suddenly to N.W., that it appeared to those below as if she had been upset, or had run upon a rock. In an instant all was bustle and confusion, till the vessel was got before the wind. The writer being in bed, immediately sprung up, and, on inquiring into the matter, the answer was, “It blows mere fire.” The man at the helm, at the same time, pointed out a vessel in a disabled state, having been dismasted with the sudden change of the wind. Our small bark was fortunately in the opening of Burlington Bay, where she got to an anchor about 6 o’clockA. M.In the course of the day, not fewer than 160 vessels took shelter in the same place, many of them in a mutilated and dismantled state, having, to use a sea phrase, had their sails “split in ribbons;” and two were towed into the Bay, one of which, a large brig, already alluded to, was totally dismasted. Such a scene, arising from what may be termed a “Summer’s Gale,” had rarely been seen on this coast. Three vessels were also driven ashore and wrecked in Robin Hood Bay, a few miles north of Flamborough-head, and several others, as the writer afterwards learned, had been stranded on various parts of the coast, between Yarmouth Roads and the Shetland Islands. The want of some place of refuge for the extensive shipping of this coast in disastrous circumstances like the present, is very apparent. Had there been a harbour at Bridlington of sufficient capacity for large ships, perhaps not fewer than 100 sail would have refitted there, which were obliged to go to sea in a very crippled condition. Probably aNorthern Ramsgatecould not be better set down than here or somewhere upon the Norfolk coast.
Progress of the gale along the coast.
The writer is the more particular in noticing the anomalous state of the weather on this occasion, because the progress of this gale seems to have been comparatively slow. It appeared upon inquiry, from the date of various shipwrecks, to have visited Shetland on the evening of the 17th, Peterhead on the 18th, and Yarmouth at noon of that day. Now, as the distance between Sumburgh-head in Shetland and Yarmouth is about 430 miles, and if we allow 42 hours, as nearly as could be ascertained, for the progress of the wind between these points, it thus appears that the N.W. gale had not made its way against the S.W. wind, at a greater rate than about 10 miles per hour, though, from a train of experiments made in the neighbourhoodof Leith, by Mr Andrew Waddell, F. R. S. E., and obligingly communicated to the writer, he has often observed the velocity of the wind to be about 60 miles per hour. But here we cannot enough regret the want of an efficient Anemometer, or instrument for measuring the force of the wind. Indeed, we hardly know any desideratum of more universal interest, for, notwithstanding the labours of Lind and others on this subject, from the want of a proper scale, we are still groping in the dark with the use of such indefinite terms, as “Light airs, inclining to calm,”—“Fresh breezes,”—“Fresh gales,”—“Hard gales,”—and “Very hard gales;” for it rarely happens that the sailor will admit the term “Storm” into his nomenclature.
Monday, 25th.
Mr B. Mills suggests distinguishing-lights with colours.
Having landed at Bridlington on the 20th, the writer had the pleasure of meeting with Mr Benjamin Mills, Collector of the Customs there, and agent for Flamborough-head Light-house. This gentleman accompanied the writer to the Light-house, about six miles distant. He was also at pains to explain the mode in which he had originally proposed the erection of a Distinguishing-light, from oil, with reflectors, for this station; as a Coal-light, formerly here, had long since been actually extinguished, on account of its being often mistaken for other lights on the coast. Mr Mills, observing the consequent disasters to shipping on these shores, proposed to construct a Revolving-light, distinguishable by means of colours, the machinery to be kept in motion by the agency of a neighbouring rill of water. Though the apparatus described to the writer seemed, upon the whole, not very applicable in practice, yet it is believed that Mr Mills was the first who suggested the idea of a distinguishing light, by means of coloured shades of glass. Some useful remarks having been made on the effects of Flamborough-head light, the writer sailed for the Firth of Forth, and reached Edinburgh on Monday the 25th.
Voyage to the Northern Lights.
Soon afterwards, he embarked at Greenock in the Light-house Yacht, on his annual voyage for the inspection of the Northern Light-houses, proceeding down the Clyde by the Mull of Kintyre, through the sounds of the Western Islands to Cape Wrath and the Orkneys, and from thence, along the eastern coast to the Firth of Forth, which he reached in the beginning of November; when he found the Bell Rock works about to be concluded.
1809, November.
State of the works when concluded for the season.
The complement of artificers which had been employed at the Rock, and lodged in the Beacon-house, from the period of completing the buildingoperations in the month of August, till November, was twenty-four, who, as before noticed, were chiefly employed in fixing additional supports to the Beacon, and in extending and completing the Railways leading to the western creek. The works therefore, were only continued during the period of spring-tides; and in neap-tides the artificers returned to the work-yard. The plate-iron-forge, anvil, and other weighty articles, had been removed from the Beacon, and set up in a centrical position on the top of the building, where the smiths had been for some time at work: the rope-ladder of communication, which had been found so useful this season, was taken down, and every thing arranged in the most compact and orderly manner for the winter. In the course of these latter operations, the Tender had been twice obliged to slip her moorings, and leave the artificers upon the Beacon. At one of these times, she proceeded for Leith Roads, when Mr Watt stated that very bad weather had been experienced on the Beacon, and that, on several occasions, considerable alarm was felt, more particularly when the Tender was driven off her station, the artificers conceiving themselves in a more forlorn and helpless situation while she was out of view. Having made the necessary arrangements for the Rock being visited during the winter months, the writer left the works on the 8th November.
Wednesday, 22d.
The prop of the crane is demolished.
The Tender sailed to-day at 2P. M., and next morning at 8, Mr Watt and five artificers were landed from two boats, and remained on the Rock till 11, when they had great difficulty in returning to the vessel, as the wind blew fresh from the N.E. The boats were no sooner hoisted on board, than, instead of sailing for Arbroath, the Tender was obliged to steer for Leith Roads, where she lay till the 29th: she then again made sail for Arbroath; but, from the severity of the weather, was put past her port, and went into Montrose. When the artificers landed, at this time, they found that the prop of the lower building-crane had been demolished during the late gales, and that the stones were scattered about the Rock in every direction, having done considerable damage to the contiguous Railways.
1809, December.
Thursday, 14th.
Artificers again visit the Rock. A large buoy has drifted.
The Tender sailed early in the morning of the 14th December for the Rock, having on board six artificers and twelve seamen, with a supply of provisions for the Floating-light. The artificers landed in the evening, and though the tide did not leave the Railways, every thing appeared to be in the same state as at their former visit. Two of the large stones which had formed the prop of the crane, had been thrown forcibly against the Beacon;but it was impossible, under the present circumstances, to effect their removal. The large buoy placed upon the spare moorings of the Floating-light, had drifted between the night of the 9th and the morning of the 10th December, the wind then blowing hard at S.SW.; and the two spar-beacons, attached to small mushroom anchors, used as a direction to the western creek, had also been washed away during the same gale. But, on the whole, no material damage had been sustained either at the Rock or on board of the Floating-light.
Saturday, 8th.
Artificers visit the Rock. Floating-light has had bad weather.
At 3 o’clock this morning, the Tender sailed for the Rock, and carried off a mushroom-anchor and chain, which were laid down as spare-moorings for the Floating-light, to be in readiness in case of her accidentally drifting, as the season would not admit of the old moorings being grappled for. On landing the artificers, they found every thing much in the same state as at their former visit, excepting two additional lengths of the Railways, extending to about eight feet, which had been broken by the loose stones of the prop of the crane. The crew of the Floating-light had also experienced some very bad weather, and on several occasions the ship is represented as having laboured much. In particular, on the 15th, with the wind at S.E., when in the act of swinging round to the tide, she was boarded by a heavy sea which unshipped the boats; and found its way below, in such quantity, that it extinguished the fires, and created considerable alarm; but the vessel, being strongly built, and well found in all her materials, sustained no damage.
Having now gone through the journal of the Bell Rock operations for the year 1809, we shall proceed with a narrative of the works for the year 1810, in the course of which the Bell Rock Light-house was completed.
PROGRESS AND COMPLETION OF THE WORKS IN THE YEAR 1810.
PROGRESS AND COMPLETION OF THE WORKS IN THE YEAR 1810.
1810, January.
The shipping establishment connected with the Bell Rock service during the winter of 1809 and 1810, consisted only of the Pharos Floating-light and Sir Joseph Banks Tender; the other vessels being laid up in ordinary. The latter vessel was appointed to carry artificers to the Rock at spring-tides, for the inspection of the works, and to repair any small damage that might occur at the Beacon-house and Railways. She also supplied the Floating-light with provisions and necessaries, and changed the crew in their respective turns of leave on shore. The landing-master, Captain Wilson, was the appointed commander of this vessel; but as he and part of his crew were occupied constantly at the Rock during the building-season, they were occasionally relieved from the unpleasant duty of the Pharos, by such of the officers and seamen belonging to the other ships in the Light-house service, as were kept in pay during the winter months.
Friday 5th.
The Tender visits the Floating-light and Bell Rock.
Five artificers from the work-yard at Arbroath were allotted for visiting the Bell Rock, with Mr Francis Watt, the foreman mill-wright. They accordingly sailed on one of their trips on the 5th of January at 12 noon; but the Tender did not reach the Floating-light till next morning at 1 o’clock. The weather being moderate, a supply of fuel, water, and provisions, was immediately sent on board, when Captain Taylor, with Mr William Reid his mate, and four seamen, shifted to the Tender, and Captain Calder of the Light-house Yacht, with John Blackwood his mate, and four seamen, took their station in the Floating-light. The Tender then stood towards the Rock, when the artificers landed with the boats at 9,and remained till 12 noon, and in the afternoon, the vessel returned and got into the harbour of Arbroath; Mr Watt reporting that every thing was in good order.
Saturday 20th.
In the same manner, and with similar success, the Floating-light and Bell Rock were visited on the 20th of this month.
February.
Sunday, 11th.
Artificers cannot land on the Rock.
The Tender was in a state of readiness for the spring-tides, on the 5th of February, but the winds, though westerly, were so stormy, that she could not go to sea. The weather having moderated on the 11th, though then the period of neap-tides, she went off to change the crew of the Floating-light, and supply that ship with necessaries; and afterwards stood towards the Rock; but as it did not appear above water, a landing could not be effected, though, from the general aspect of things, the Beacon and Building were concluded to be in good order, and the vessel returned to Arbroath on the afternoon of Monday the 12th.
Wednesday, 21st.
Still prevented from landing.
The Tender sailed this morning at 5 o’clock, with a fine breeze at west, having on board the usual complement of artificers, a change of crew, and a supply of provisions for the Floating-light. At 9 she got off to the Rock, but the wind, by this time, blew so fresh, that it was found impracticable to land; every thing, however, about the Building and Beacon appeared to be in good order. At 11, the Tender stood towards the Floating-light, and, after considerable difficulty, the provisions were got on board, and a transfer made of the crews; when the Tender sailed for Arbroath, and got into the harbour at 4P. M., having been only about eleven hours in making this trip.
1810, March.
Sunday, 11th.
A landing is effected. Large stones drifted upon the Rock.
At 4 o’clock this morning, the Tender sailed for the Rock with the wind at N. by E., when the artificers made a landing at half-past 10, and remained till 1A. M., having found every thing in good order, excepting some parts of the Railways, which had received damage from the movement of a large drift-stone or traveller, estimated to contain upwards of one ton of rock, which was broken and removed, to prevent its doing more damage. The building, as high as the daily rise of the tide, was now covered with a strong growth of sea-weed. On the course, however, immediately above the Rock, the fuci had been prevented from taking root from the chips of stone which continually washed about the building. Some holes in the Rock, near the Beacon, which, in the year1807, had been filled with ruble-building, a species of work rather unexpectedly found to withstand the force of the sea, had in the late gales been shaken loose, and laid open.—In the course of the gales of the 25th, 26th, and 27th of March, as is supposed, two large drift-stones or travellers had done considerable injury to the Railways. It also appeared, from certain marks upon the beams of the Beacon, at the height of about five feet above the Rock, that these stones, containing from seven to ten cubic feet each, or upwards of half a ton, had actually been lifted by the sea and driven with force against the Beacon. In the course of these gales, also, the large cask-buoy, used as the moorings of the Tender, had broken adrift. During these gales, the Floating-light rolled very heavily, and had shipped several great seas, but nothing of any consequence happened in the way of damage to the vessel or her appurtenances.
Beacon now rendered very secure.
As the finishing of the Light-house, in the course of next season, depended wholly upon the stability of the Beacon, every possible attention was paid to its safety; and it was most satisfactory to learn, by Mr Watt’s report, that every thing about it continued in good order. On almost every visit during the two former winters, some of the bracing-chains were found in a broken state; but since the months of September and October last, when they were removed, and replaced with thirty-six great bars of iron bolted to the principal beams, as shown inPlate VIII., every thing had remained in a state of connected firmness.
Progress of the works at Arbroath.
The hewing or cutting of the several courses, forming the void of the Light-house, was also in great forwardness in the work-yard at Arbroath; and by the latter end of the month of April, the Forty-fourth course, forming part of the store-room, shewn in the section ofPlate XVI., was laid on the platform, and ready for shipping to the Rock. The burning and pounding of the Aberthaw lime, and the preparation of other materials, were also going on.
1810, April.
Landing on the Rock precarious in Winter.
The season, though now advanced to the month of April, was still boisterous. The day, however, was getting long, and the influence of the sun began to be felt in checking the frosts, which often stopped both the quarrying operations and the stone-cutters. The lengthening of the day, as well as moderate weather, was a great regulating circumstance in the Bell Rock works; for, during the winter months, only one low-water tide occurred with day-light; and, indeed, in the depth of winter, theremay be said to be no very favourable opportunity of landing on the Rock, as low-water at new and full moon happens here about 8 o’clock, which renders the chance of landing extremely uncertain and precarious.
Retrospective view of the works. Mylnefield Quarry.
Previously to entering upon the operations of the season 1810, it may be proper, in this place, to take a retrospective view of the various departments of the work. The granite courses of the Bell Rock Light-house having been completed, for a considerable time, it was only the sandstone quarries that were to be attended to. As formerly noticed, the stone of Mylnefield, like that of most quarries which lie in strata or alternate beds, is liable to split and become useless, from the effects of frost, owing to the natural sap or moisture which they contain. Water, being unlike other bodies which follow the general law of contracting in volume with a reduction of temperature, is found, on the contrary, to encrease in bulk at the moment of congelation, producing the most surprising effects in rending rocks, even with an explosive force. In sandstone quarries, therefore, the work is usually suspended during the months of December, January, February and March, when the frost happens to be intense, as was the case in the winter of 1809–1810, when the thermometer occasionally fell so low as the 17th degree of Fahrenheit. Notwithstanding every precaution in the work-yard at Arbroath, by covering the quarried materials with straw and brushwood, many excellent and valuable stones were lost by the intenseness of the frost. Such, however, was the desire of getting early forward with the work, in order to insure the completion of the building operations in the favourable part of the season, that the writer took the earliest measures for getting an additional supply of stones from Mylnefield; and, by the beginning of the month of April, the Smeaton and Patriot, together with the hired sloop Alexander, were loaded and sent to Arbroath.
Craigleith Quarry.
From this description of the nature of the stone of Mylnefield, it became necessary, for the furtherance of the upper parts of the Light-house during the winter months, that they should be prepared of stone which would admit of being worked without much risk of injury during frosty weather. For the cornice of the building, and the parapet of the light-room, the writer, therefore, made choice of the Liver-rock of the Craigleith Quarry, well known for its durability and beauty, and for its property of not being liable to be affected by frost. By this means also, the iron-work or frame of the Light-room might be fitted to the masonry on the spot where it was to be prepared, which would thereby lessen the actual work upon theRock. Another advantage attending this arrangement, was the opportunity it afforded of making practical trial of the Balance-crane, with which the masonry of the ensuing season was to be built, as it had been found necessary to make several alterations on its construction.
State of the Works at Edinburgh.
The use of a piece of vacant ground was accordingly got at Greenside, contiguous to the author’s house, in Edinburgh, where a number of masons were employed, at the sight of Mr Peter Logan, foreman builder. A very considerable difficulty was, however, experienced in procuring so many principal stones of the liver-rock, of the description and dimensions necessary for the cornice and balcony; the stones of which also formed the Light-room floor in one length, as will be understood by examining PlatesXIII.andXVI.But, as these works commenced at Edinburgh in the latter end of October 1809, they were completed early in the month of March 1810, and the whole of this critical and difficult part of the building was then ready for shipping to the Bell Rock. The several compartments of the Light-room were now also in progress. The sheets of silver-plated copper for the reflectors having been ordered from Messrs Boulton and Watt,—the glass from the British Plate-Glass Company,—the cast-iron sash-frames from Mr John Patterson of the Edinburgh Foundery,—while the construction of the reflectors and reflecting-apparatus, together with the framing of the whole Light-room and its appurtenances, were executed under the immediate directions of Mr Thomas Smith, the writer’s predecessor, who had now retired from the more active duties of engineer to the Light-house Board.
Practical conclusions about the period of completing the Works, and mode of distinguishing the Light.
Having, in the course of the two last seasons, landed and built upwards of 1400 tons of stone upon the Bell Rock, while the work was low in the water, and before the Beacon was habitable, and finding that it did not now require more than about 700 tons to complete the masonry, the writer concluded, that, barring accidents of a very untoward nature, there was every prospect of the Light-house being finished in the course of the ensuing season. A question, of much importance, however, still remained in some measure undetermined, regarding the characteristic description of the light most suitable for the Bell Rock, so as to render it easily distinguishable from all others upon the coast. There being Stationary-lights already in the Firth of Forth; this mode could not be adopted for the Bell Rock. Revolving-lights had also lately been erected upon the Fearn Islands, the most contiguous Light-house-station to the southward, as will be seen fromthe General Chart of the coast inPlate III.Considering, therefore, the liability of the mariner to mistake the appearance of lights in stormy weather, or from an error in his course in returning from a distant voyage, it was of the last importance that the Bell Rock Light-house should be easily distinguishable. The most suitable means for accomplishing this seemed to be by the exhibition ofdifferent coloursfrom the same Light-room. The only colour which had yet been found to answer, was produced by interposing shades of red glass before the reflectors. But this was the colour used for distinguishing the Light of Flamborough-head, on the Yorkshire coast, and, though about 169 miles to the southward, it would still have been desirable to have avoided the same colour. A train of experiments was therefore made from Inchkeith Light-house, with plates of glass, coloured red, green, orange, yellow, blue, and purple, procured from Birmingham and London. These were fitted to the reflectors at Inchkeith, within view of the writer’s windows in Edinburgh. The Tender was likewise appointed to cruise, that more distant observations might be made, for ascertaining the effect of these coloured shades. But after the most full and satisfactory trials, the red colour was found to be the only one applicable to this purpose. In tolerably clear weather, the light of one reflector tinged red, alternating with a light of the natural appearance, with intervals of darkness, was easily distinguishable at the distance of eight or nine miles; while the other colours rendered the light opaque, being hardly distinguishable to the naked eye at more than two or three miles. After various trials and observations made in this manner, both on land and at sea, the writer at length resolved on recommending the use of red, as the only colour suitable for this purpose; and, in order to vary the light as much as possible from that of Flamborough-head, a square Reflector-frame was adopted at the Bell Rock, with two of its faces or sides having red coloured shades, and the other two exhibiting lights of the natural appearance. At Flamborough-head, the Reflector-frame is triangular, and on one side it is furnished with red coloured shades, while the other two sides exhibit lights of the natural appearance. The design at the Bell Rock, on the contrary, was to exhibit a light tinged red, alternating with one of the natural appearance; and, upon this principle, the apparatus was put in a state of preparation.
1810, March.
State of the Works at Arbroath.
In the work-yard at Arbroath things were going forward very prosperously, at the sight of Mr David Logan, clerk of works. The hewing or preparation of the stones for the Light-house was now advanced to withinabout eight courses of the cornice, which, with the parapet, as already observed, was all set up at Edinburgh, and ready for being shipped when wanted at the Rock. A kiln of the Aberthaw limestone having already been calcined, was partly reduced to the state of powder, and put up into casks, as formerly. The operation of pounding the lime was very tedious and unpleasant, being performed by labourers upon a stone-bench in the lime-house, where it was reduced chiefly by means of friction, between the bench and stones, managed by hand. Due proportions of pozzolano-earth and clean sharp sand were made up in casks, and the oaken trenails and wedges in bundles; but the supply wanted of these materials was, in future, to be comparatively trifling. The building being now considerably above the rise of the tide, the use of mortar was less, while the system of trenailing and wedging was to be discontinued, after the building had reached the top of the stone staircase, or to the height of 13 feet above the solid. The several implements connected with the building operations being also laid to hand, nothing was now required but good weather and favourable tides, to proceed with the works at the Rock.
Gangway or Bridge for the Rock.
1810, April.
Among the preparations at Arbroath for the furtherance of the work at the Bell Rock, was the construction of a gangway or bridge of timber between the Beacon and the Building, instead of the Rope-ladder employed with so much effect last season, as will be understood by examining the second and third years’ work, represented inPlate IX.This more stable and commodious way of communicating with the works, was also to be useful as a stage for raising the building materials, instead of the lower crane, the stool or prop of which had become too low, and, as before noticed, had been washed away by the sea in the course of last month. This bridge consisted of two principal beams of Memel timber, measuring 44 feet in length, 6 inches in thickness, and 13 inches in depth. At one end these beams were to abut against the principal beams of the Beacon, and to be strongly bolted to them; at the opposite end, one was to be rested on the sole or instep of the door, while the other was to be let 6 inches into a hole cut into the upper granite course of the Light-house. They were placed 7 feet apart, and formed a roadway of 6 feet in breadth between the rails, which was strongly bound in a lateral direction with cross framing mortised into the principal beams, and otherwise fixed with screw-bolts. The bridge was further to be supported by four diagonal spur-beams, which met in pairs on each side, at the middle of the roadway, and there formed king-posts, to steady and support it. A crab or winch-machine was to be placed uponit, for raising the stones at once from the rock to the level of the top of the solid part of the building.
Wednesday, 18th.
Operations commence for the season. Wooden Bridge is erected.
After making the experiments relative to the distinguishing of the light, the Tender sailed from Leith Roads on the morning of Tuesday, the 3d of April, and got into Arbroath on the 6th, where she lay. Being fitted out for the Rock, with a sufficient stock of water and provisions, and having also on board the beams and apparatus for the wooden bridge, she sailed at 1 o’clock this morning, with eleven masons, three joiners, and two blacksmiths, together with Mr Francis Watt, foreman, in all seventeen artificers, who were to be employed during the ensuing spring-tides, in erecting the bridge between the Beacon and Building. At 3P. M.she was made fast to the new moorings, which had been laid down for her in lieu of those which had drifted on the 26th of March; but the weather was then so boisterous, that no landing could be made on the Rock till the following morning, at 6 o’clock, when they commenced the operations of the season by laying the deals of the mortar-gallery, or lowest floor of the Beacon. Although the weather continued to be extremely boisterous till the 23d, the Tender’s marine barometer oscillating between 29.05 and 29.60, yet the wind being westerly, the artificers were enabled to pursue their operations by landing daily; for, upon this occasion, the Beacon was not taken possession of, and they returned at night to the Tender. On the 24th the weather became very fine; the barometer remaining for several days at about 30.10. The work now proceeded with so much alacrity and dispatch, that by the 28th the fixing of the bridge was completed, and the Tender returned with all hands to Arbroath.
Monday, 23d.
Charles Gray gets one of his fingers severely bruised.
While the Tender waited the operations of the artificers at the Rock, the Smeaton made two trips to it, and laid down six sets of moorings with their floating-buoys, so that every thing was now in a state of readiness for the commencement of the works. When unloading these moorings, Charles Gray, a seaman, unfortunately got one of his fingers so bruised between the hatchway of the ship and a mushroom-anchor, that it was found necessary to amputate part of it.
1810, May.
Tuesday, 1st.
The Writer proceeds for the Rock, to begin building for the season.
The Smeaton having come to Leith for the Balance-crane, the writer sailed this afternoon with her for the Bell Rock, to commence the building operations for the season. The weather, for the last eight days,had been extremely stormy, and, though still unfavourable, yet, being moderate, hopes were entertained that she would soon make her way down the Firth of Forth. After beating to windward for a day and a night, however, she was obliged to bear away for Burntisland Roads, where he left the vessel, to pursue his journey by land to Arbroath, accompanied by Mr James Dove, foreman-smith, to whom particularly the change in the mode of travelling was a great relief, as, notwithstanding his having had considerable practice at sea, he was still a great martyr to sickness, and even felt a dislike for every thing connected with a ship, which was strongly marked by the following trifling occurrence. On leaving the Smeaton, Captain Pool, presenting the bread-basket to Mr Dove, observed, that, although he could not eat on board, he might perhaps be thankful of a biscuit when he got on shore; on which Mr Dove gravely replied, that “it would be long to the day before he would be thankful for asea-biscuit.” The object of his journey at this time was to fit up the Balance-crane on the top of the building, and to superintend its operation for a time on the Rock. This useful implement had been constructed in the course of last season, but was not then found to be in a sufficiently serviceable state. It was accordingly new-modelled, and, though an opportunity had been afforded of making trial of it at Edinburgh, in raising the weighty stones of the cornice and balcony of the Light-house, yet the writer wished Mr Dove also to fit it at the Bell Rock. They reached Arbroath on the evening of the 3d.
Saturday, 5th.
The Tender is ready for sea.
The Smeaton arrived at Arbroath to-day with the Balance-crane, which was immediately put on board of the Tender, now ready to proceed for the Rock with the first good weather. The Smeaton then took on board the stone ballast, and platform, laid in her hold for the greater conveniency of stowing and discharging the prepared stones of the building. The wind had now changed to the S.W., and hopes were entertained of a return of good weather. But this being the period of neap-tides, and considering that it might be three or four months before some of the artificers again returned to the shore, as the Beacon was now habitable, it was intimated to them on Saturday, that the Tender would not sail till Monday. They accordingly attended church to-day, with their wonted decency of deportment.
Monday, 7th.
Writer sails with the Artificers for the Rock.
The artificers having been warned to take their quarters on board of the Tender last night, the writer sailed this morning from Arbroath at half-past2, accompanied by Mr Peter Logan, foreman builder, Mr Francis Watt, foreman mill-wright, and Mr James Dove, foreman smith, together with sixteen artificers, and the regular crew of the vessel, in all counting thirty-two persons; but the Tender having the Hedderwick praam-boat in tow, went slowly off. At 12 noon the Floating-light was hailed, when Captain Wilson, the landing-master, came on board, to take his station for the season, and at 1P. M.the Tender was made fast to her moorings at the Bell Rock. The praam-boat was immediately hauled alongside, and the apparatus of the Balance-crane laid upon her deck, when she was towed to her moorings, there being too much sea at this time, for attempting to land upon the Rock. As the barometer stood at 30.04, hopes were entertained that the weather would soon improve.
Tuesday, 8th.
Landing impracticable.
The wind was at east to-day, and the sea still broke so heavily upon the Rock, that no landing could be made. At high-water, the spray was observed to fly considerably above the building, perhaps not less than 20 feet, in all about 50 feet above the Rock, while the seas were raging and breaking among the beams of the Beacon with much violence.
Wednesday, 9th.
The Praam-boats ride easily.
The same boisterous state of the weather still continued, and the sea-swell was nothing abated to-day, so that no landing could yet be made upon the Rock. The landing-master, however, went in a boat, and examined the Praam-boat at her moorings, where every thing was found in good order. It is here worthy of remark, that while the Tender and Floating-light rolled much, and occasionally shipped pretty heavy seas, the praam, with a cargo of about three tons on board, was perfectly dry upon deck, and to use the seamen’s expression, “rode as easily as an old shoe.”
Thursday, 10th.
State of the Building.
The wind had shifted to-day to W.NW., when the writer, with considerable difficulty, was enabled to land upon the Rock, for the first time this season, at 10A. M.Upon examining the state of the Building, and Apparatus in general, he had the satisfaction to find every thing in good order. The mortar in all the joints was perfectly entire. The building, now 30 feet in height, was thickly coated withfucito the height of about 15 feet, calculating from the Rock: on the eastern side, indeed, the growth of sea-weed was observable to the full height of 30 feet, and even on the top or upper bed of the last laid course, especially towards the eastern side, it had germinated, so as to render walking upon it somewhat difficult. The smith’s forge, which had been removed from the mortar-gallery tothe top of the Building, in the month of September last, to give more accommodation to the works of the joiners, was left there for the season,—the bellows excepted, which were kept under cover in the Beacon throughout the winter; and, it is not a little remarkable, that, although the sea had risen to a considerable height, and fallen in great quantities upon the top of the building; yet such was the centrical position of the forge, that it remained quite entire: even the spar of timber, and the small cords which had been stretched for steadying it, and forming an awning of about 8 feet in diameter, for sheltering the smith, were also still in their places. This was a proof that no very heavy seas had broken so high as the top of the solid, otherwise the forge and the apparatus for supporting the awning, must have long since been swept away by the breach of the sea.
State of the Beacon.
The Beacon-house was in a perfectly sound state, and apparently just as it had been left in the month of November. But the tides being neap, the lower parts, particularly where the beams rested on the Rock, could not now be seen. The great iron-bars, however, which measure 3 inches square, and from 7 to 9 feet in length, stretching between the principal beams, in place of the bracing chains, which were found constantly liable to break and unscrew, were in view, and in good order. The whole frame of this fabric was now in a firm and secure state. The floor of the mortar-gallery having been already laid down by Mr Watt and his men on a former visit, was merely soaked with the sprays; but the joisting-beams which supported it had, in the course of the winter, been covered with a fine downy conferva, produced by the range of the sea. They were also a good deal whitened with the mute of the cormorant and other sea-fowls, which had roosted upon the Beacon in winter. Upon ascending to the apartments, it was found that the motion of the sea had thrown open the door of the cook-house: this was only shut with a simple latch, that, in case of shipwreck at the Bell Rock, the mariner might find ready access to the shelter of this forlorn habitation, where a supply of provisions was kept; and being within two miles and a half of the Floating-light, a signal could readily be observed, when a boat might be sent to his relief as soon as the weather permitted. An arrangement for this purpose formed one of the Instructions on board of the Floating-light, but happily no instance occurred for putting it in practice. The hearth or fire-place of the cook-house was built of brick, in as secure a manner as possible, to prevent accident fromfire; but some of the plaster work had shaken loose, from its damp state, and the tremulous motion of the Beacon in stormy weather. The writer next ascended to the floor which was occupied by the cabins of himself, and his assistants, which were in tolerably good order, having only a damp and musty smell. The barrack for the artificers over all, was next visited: it had now a very dreary and deserted appearance, when its former thronged state was recollected. In some parts, the water had come through the boarding, and had discoloured the lining of green cloth, but it was, nevertheless, in a good habitable condition. While the seamen were employed in landing a stock of provisions, a few of the artificers set to work, with great eagerness, to sweep and clean the several apartments. The exterior of the Beacon was, in the mean time, examined, and found in perfect order. The painting, though it had a somewhat blanched appearance, adhered firmly both on the sides and roof, and only two or three panes of glass were broken in the cupola, which had either been blown out by the force of the wind, or perhaps broken by sea-fowl.
Thursday, 10th.
State of the Timber Bridge.
Having, on this occasion, continued upon the building and beacon a considerable time, after the tide had begun to flow, the artificers were occupied in removing the forge from the top of the building, to which the gangway or wooden bridge gave great facility; and, although it stretched or had a span of 42 feet, its construction was extremely simple, while the roadway was perfectly firm and steady. In returning from this visit to the Rock, every one was pretty well soused in spray, before reaching the Tender at 2 o’clockP. M., where things awaited the landing party in as comfortable a way as such a situation would admit.
Friday, 11th.
Balance-crane landed. Position of the Entrance-door.
The wind was still easterly, accompanied with rather a heavy swell of sea, for the operations in hand. A landing was, however, made this morning, when the artificers were immediately employed in scraping the sea-weed off the upper course of the building, in order to apply the moulds of the first course of the staircase, that the joggle-holes might be marked off in the upper course of the solid, which, as formerly, had not been done to the finishing course of the season. This was also necessary previously to the writer’s fixing the position of the entrance-door, which was regulated chiefly by the appearance of the growth of the sea-weed on the building, indicating the direction of the heaviest seas, on the opposite side of which the door was placed. The landing-master’s crewsucceeded in towing into the creek on the western side of the Rock, the praam-boat, with the balance-crane, which had now been on board of the praam for five days. The several pieces of this machine having been conveyed along the Railways upon the waggons, to a position immediately under the bridge, were elevated to its level, or thirty feet above the Rock, in the following manner. A chain-tackle was suspended over a pulley from the cross-beam, connecting the tops of the king-posts of the bridge, which was worked by a winch-machine, with wheel, pinion and barrel, round which last the chain was wound. This apparatus was placed on the Beacon-side of the bridge, at the distance of about twelve feet from the cross beam and pulley in the middle of the bridge. Immediately under the cross-beam a hatch was formed in the roadway of the bridge, measuring 7 feet in length and 5 feet in breadth, made to shut with folding boards like a double-door, through which stones and other articles were raised; the folding-doors were then let down, and the stone or load was gently lowered upon a waggon which was wheeled on railway tracks towards the Light-house. In this manner, the several castings of the balance-crane were got up to the top of the solid of the building.