Thursday, 25th.
The Light-room is glazed.
The glazing of the sash-frames of the light-room having been completed on Wednesday the 24th, the boats of the Smeaton and Floating-light landed on the morning of the 25th, when the plumbers and glaziers left the Rock; from whom the writer learned the progress which had been made with the work. Among other preparations for the glazing, it was stated, that besides the sheeting provided as a screen, all hands had engaged to give part of their bedding for the better defence of the glass, in case it should come to blow so hard as to endanger the stopping of the work; but althoughthe weather had rather a threatening aspect at the commencement of this critical operation, yet it was got through in a manner much beyond expectation, and in one day and a half the light-room was completely closed; though not without being under the necessity of lighting torches at night, which were, however, screened from the view of shipping.
Saturday, 27th.
The Yacht returns to the Rock, but loses one of her boats.
After the house was glazed, and in a manner externally finished, the writer sailed from Leith for the Rock, on the 27th of October; but, as it came to blow very fresh from W.S.W., a landing could not be effected, and the Yacht was put into Arbroath till the 29th, when the wind became more moderate, and she again stood off. While in the act of putting about, with the sea still running high, one of the two boats astern got entangled and filled with water, when the stem of one of them unfortunately parted, and she immediately sunk. It was indeed with great difficulty that the other was saved, by two of the crew jumping into her, at the risk of their lives; and having baled out the water with buckets, she was got safely on board.
Tuesday, 30th.
Great dexterity of the Landing-master and his crew.
This accident obliged the vessel to be anchored all night in the Bay of Arbroath, and having got another boat she sailed this morning at 5 o’clock. On reaching the Rock, it was found that a very heavy sea still ran upon it; but the writer having been disappointed on the two former occasions, and, as the erection of the house might now be considered complete, there being nothing wanted externally, excepting some of the storm-shutters for the defence of the windows, he was the more anxious at this time to inspect it. Two well manned boats were therefore ordered to be in attendance; and, after some difficulty, the wind being at N.N.E., they got safely into the western creek, though not without encountering plentiful sprays. It would have been impossible to have attempted a landing to-day, under any other circumstances than with boats perfectly adapted to the purpose, and with seamen who knew every ledge of the Rock, and even the length of the sea-weeds at each particular spot, so as to dip their oars into the water accordingly, and thereby prevent them from getting entangled. But what was of no less consequence to the safety of the party, Captain Wilson, who always steered the leading boat, had a perfect knowledge of the set of the different waves, while the crew never shifted their eyes from observing his motions, and the strictest silence was preserved by every individual except himself. Under such regulations, which were observed on all occasions of difficulty, thelandings at the Rock proceeded with the greatest regularity, and by this means, safety, and even comfort, were enjoyed, where, under different circumstances, there would have been much peril. The second or attending boat was steered by James Shepherd the experienced coxwain of the Floating-light, whose directions were to keep about two oars’ length astern. This boat was generally kept light, and as free of incumbrance as possible, that she might be ready to assist in any case of emergency. The writer is the more particular upon this subject, as he conceives that much of the success of the Bell Rock operations depended on the safety which attended the many thousands of landings made in all sorts of weather.
State of the Railways.
On landing at the Rock this morning, the writer found the Railways much broken up on the eastern-reach and the circular track round the building; while the western-reach, extending to upwards of 290 feet, had also materially suffered. In several places it had got an inclination to one side, by the force of the N.E. seas, which came sweeping round the Rock, and it was evident it could not withstand the gales of winter. The Norway logs, on which these railways were supported, had not only been much reduced in strength, by the ravages of the insect formerly noticed, but, from this cause also, the rails had got a tremulous motion in heavy seas, which had shaken loose several of the bolts. It was, however, so far well that they had already answered the immediate purpose intended by them.
State of the beams of the Beacon.
The Beacon-house was found, upon examination, to be in general in a good state of repair, though the lower parts, where the beams rested upon the Rock, had suffered from the insect. Several of them, as before noticed, had been so much hollowed, where they at first rested on the Rock, that the hand could be introduced into the heart of the log, while the exterior of the timber, for an inch or two in thickness, remained quite entire; the charring of the surface, and the hot-pitch, wherever it could be applied, having completely preserved it. Several of the beams, however, now rested chiefly upon the bolts, which passed through the great iron-stanchions sunk into the Rock, as represented inPlate VIII.But this fabric had nearly served its purpose, and there was a prospect of its being taken down next summer. It has before been noticed that these effects, at the parts where the beams rested, or were in contact with the Rock, had not been anticipated. But, in the event of a similar erection on any part of the British coast, it would be proper to provide against this bysinking the foot of the principal beams 8 inches into the Rock, and shoeing them with sheet lead or copper; though the action of the latter metal with the iron-work might be somewhat objectionable, and might render a coating with tin advisable.
State of the Light-house.
Having examined the Beacon-house, he next passed to the Light-house, by the horizontal rope-ladder represented inPlate IX.The lower part of the building, as high as the perpendicular range of the tide, was coated all over with marine plants; toward the north-east, this appearance had indeed reached about 50 feet in height. On entering the house, he had the pleasure to find it in a somewhat habitable condition, the lower apartments being closed in with temporary windows, and fitted with proper storm-shutters. It may here be remarked as a strong instance of the very fortunate position of the Entrance-door, that although the sea had risen to the height of upwards of 80 feet, on the eastern side of the Light-house, it had not, as yet, been found necessary to have it hung, although Mr Slight was now setting about this operation, by the insertion of the Lewis-bats or tails of the hinges, into their respective brass-boxes, previously built into the walls. There being, as yet, no inner-door for the passage, temporary-hatches were also still wanting for the man-holes of the several floors, to check the sifting air, which, in westerly winds, made the house very cold, and carried along with it particles of dust, which might have become injurious to the reflecting-apparatus.
Condition of the several apartments.
The lowest apartment at the head of the stair-case was occupied with water, fuel, and provisions, put up in a temporary way, until the house could be furnished with proper utensils. The second or light-room store was, at present, much encumbered with various tools and apparatus for the use of the workmen. The kitchen immediately over this had, as yet, been supplied only with a common ship’s coboose, and plate-iron funnel, while the necessary cooking utensils had been taken from the Beacon. The bed-room was, for the present, used as the joiners’ workshop, and the strangers’ room, immediately under the light-room, was occupied by the artificers, the beds being ranged in tiers, as was done in the barrack of the Beacon. The light-room, though unprovided with its machinery, being now covered over with the cupola, glazed and painted, had a very complete and cleanly appearance. The balcony was only as yet fitted with a temporary rail, consisting of a few iron stanchions, connected with ropes; and in this state it was necessary to leave it during the winter.
Light-house put under charge of Mr John Reid.
Having gone over the whole of the low-water works on the Rock, the Beacon and Light-house, and being satisfied that only the most untoward accident in the landing of the machinery could prevent the exhibition of the light, in the course of the winter; Mr John Reid, formerly of the Floating-light, was now put in charge of the light-house as principal keeper; Mr James Slight had charge of the operations of the artificers; while Mr James Dove and the smiths having finished the frame of the light-room, left the Rock for the present. With these arrangements the writer bade adieu to the works for the season. At 11A. M.the tide was far advanced; and there being now little or no shelter for the boats at the Rock, they had to be pulled through the breach of sea, which came on board in great quantities, and it was with extreme difficulty that they could be kept in the proper direction of the landing-creek.—On this occasion, he may be permitted to look back with gratitude on the many escapes made in the course of this arduous undertaking, now brought so near to a successful conclusion.
November.
Saturday, 3d.
The Boat is washed off the Beacon.
The wind having, on Saturday the 3d of November, shifted to the N. E., with showers of snow, accompanied by a very heavy swell of sea, it was stated, in the monthly return from the Rock, that the water had come in considerable quantities into the threshold of the entrance-door, which, on this occasion, had to be shut. During this gale, it was thought that the Beacon would certainly have been carried away by the force of the tremendous seas which fell upon it, and often washed over it at high-water. The small boat suspended from projected davits at the height of 30 feet above the Rock, as shown inPlate VIII., got full of water by the accidental stopping of the eyelet-hole, while the friction occasioned by the tremulous motion of the Beacon, and beating of the waves, chaffed one of the bow-tackle ropes: she then hung suspended from the stem-tackle, and every sea which came rolling along gave her a new impulse: this soon wore out the remaining tackle, and she was at length swept away, after having kept her position since mid-summer.
Sprays rise 104 feet on the Light-house.
On one occasion, while the inmates of the Light-house were standing on the balcony, looking with attention at the wonderful state of the sea, the sprays conducted by the walls, came full in their faces, and, passing partly over their heads, struck upon the second tier of the glass-panes of the light-room, which is 104 feet from the Rock! During this gale, a thrilling motion was sensibly felt throughout the building, uponleaning against the walls at particular periods, when the seas struck the base of the house. The rise of the spray to the height above mentioned rather surprised the writer, as he had not himself at any time seen it higher than about 70 feet. He had, however, felt the tremulous effect alluded to; and it has already been remarked, that it is not while the gale continues that the sea strikes so hard, or rises to so great a height; but after the abatement of the storm, when the waves begin to break in the manner represented in the frontispiece.
Sprays fly over the Floating-light.
This gale was also much felt on board of the Floating-light. Captain Wilson states, in his account of the weather, that he had to veer out the long-service, or about 90 fathoms of cable, and often to freshen hawse, or to shift that part of the cable which was immediately in the hawsehole of the ship. The seas also which struck the bows of the vessel were generally carried as far aft as the quarter-deck, and were not unfrequently thrown over the stern. This gale was, therefore, considered to have been as severe as that of September 1807, already described. The Light-house Yacht, now acting as Tender at the Rock, having been driven from her station, had taken shelter in Burntisland Roads, ready on the first change of weather to return to the Rock. The Smeaton and Patriot were fortunately in Arbroath, discharging their cargoes of stones from Milnfield, for the establishment on shore.
Mr Reid and Mr Fortune left in the Light-house.
On Monday the 5th, the Yacht again visited the Rock; when Mr Slight and the artificers returned with her to the work-yard, where a number of things were still to prepare connected with the temporary fitting up of the accommodation for the light-keepers. Mr John Reid and Peter Fortune were now the only inmates of the house. This was the smallest number of persons hitherto left in the Light-house. As four light-keepers were to be the complement, it was intended that three should always be at the Rock. Its present inmates, however, could hardly have been better selected for such a situation; Mr Reid being a person possessed of the strictest notions of duty, and habits of regularity, from long service on board of a man-of-war, while Mr Fortune had one of the most happy and contented dispositions imaginable.
Tuesday, 13th.
Experience a heavy gale.
From Saturday the 10th till Tuesday the 13th, the wind had been from N.E., blowing a heavy gale; but to-day, the weather having greatly moderated, Captain Taylor, who now commanded the Smeaton, sailedat 2 o’clockA. M.for the Bell Rock. At 5 the Floating-light was hailed, and found to be all well. Being a fine moon-light morning, the seamen were changed from the one ship to the other. At 8, the Smeaton being off the Rock, the boats were manned, and taking a supply of water, fuel, and other necessaries, landed at the western side, when Mr Reid and Mr Fortune were found in good health and spirits. They reported, that the sea had run very heavily, and rose at times nearly to the balcony of the Light-house, when it fell with great weight and violence on the Beacon-house; that, on Sunday the 11th, the wooden-frame of the western wharf was carried away; and that the railways to the eastward were also much shattered and broken by large detached masses of rock, brought from deep water by the impulse of the sea, some of which left on the Rock were apparently of the cubical contents of several tons. Though none of these stones have yet been traced as belonging to any particular part of the Rock, yet they are all of the same red sandstone. It was intended at this time, that a large stock of coals and water should have been got into the Light-house, before the Smeaton went to Leith, to load the remainder of the apparatus; but this, from the state of the weather, was found impracticable, and she therefore returned to Arbroath, to wait a change of weather.
1810, November.
Saturday, 1st.
Their description of the effects of the Sea upon the Light-House.
It having been intimated at the work-yard, that a log of timber had come ashore at West-Haven, about six miles from Arbroath, James Glen, who knew every piece of timber upon the Bell Rock, was dispatched, to ascertain if it had drifted from thence; and, on his return, reported that the log had belonged to the Western Wharf. Mr Slight having got his apparatus prepared, went again off to the Rock with the workmen, when a large additional supply of water, fuel, and provisions, was also landed. It was now ascertained, that the whole of the western wharf, and part of its connecting railway, had been carried away, and that the circular-track and eastern-reach of the railways were much damaged. Mr Reid farther stated, that, during the late gales, particularly on Friday the 30th, the wind veering from S.E. to N.E., both he and Mr Fortune sensibly felt the house tremble, when particular seas struck, about the time of high-water; the former observing that it was a tremor of that sort which rather tended to convince him that every thing about the building was sound, and reminded him of the effect produced, when a good log of timber is struck sharply with a mallet; but, with every confidence in the stability of the building, he nevertheless confessed, that, inso forlorn a situation, they were not insensible to those emotions which, he emphatically observed, “made a man look back upon his former life.”
1810, December.
Thursday, 6th.
The Red-coloured glass arrives at Leith.
The Smeaton was now much wanted at Leith, where Mr Forrest had arrived from London on the 1st, with the plates of red-coloured glass; but the weather continued boisterous, and she was detained in the harbour of Arbroath with a gale at S.W. To-day the writer got notice from Mr Andrew Roger, merchant in St Monance, that some fishermen belonging to that village had picked up a raft of timber, strongly bolted together. This turned out to be part of the timber of the Western Wharf, which had drifted from the Rock on the 11th, and had been ever since floating about the Firth of Forth. It was picked up on the coast of Fife, about nine miles to the westward of the Isle of May.
Saturday, 8th.
The Reflecting apparatus sent from Leith.
The wind having shifted last night, the Smeaton sailed from Arbroath at 10P. M., for Leith, to take on board the whole of the remaining appurtenances necessary for the exhibition of the Light. She got into Leith harbour on the 9th, about mid-day, when the apparatus was immediately put on board; but the weather was unfavourable for going down the Firth of Forth. To-day, however, the wind being west, with a better appearance, the following persons sailed for the Rock, viz. Mr James Dove, smith, who was to screw together the frame for the Reflecting-apparatus; Mr James Clark, clock-maker, who had constructed, and was now to regulate, the Revolving-machinery for the lights; and Mr John Forrest, who had the general superintendance of the keepers’ duty of the Northern Light-houses, and being also foreman for Light-room repairs in the service, was to adjust the reflectors and lamps, and remain at the Bell Rock until every thing was found to proceed in a satisfactory manner.
Friday, 14th.
An attempt is made to land at the Rock.
At day-light this morning, however, the Smeaton was still eight or nine miles from the Light-house, with hardly any wind. In the prospect of effecting a landing, Captain Taylor manned the boat when about two miles distant from the Rock, intending to leave the above persons, and afterwards to take the earliest opportunity of landing the apparatus, the tide being now too far spent for attempting the latter operation. The only articles taken in the boat, besides their personal luggage, were the two boxes of red-glass, which having already cost so much trouble, and requiring so much care, Mr Forrest, with his usual caution, had determined not to lose sight of. The party thus proceeded, but, on reaching the Rock, they had themortification to find it nearly under water, with such a breach of sea that no boat could approach it. They were, therefore, obliged to return to the ship, perishing with cold, and chagrined with disappointment.
Saturday, 15th.
Reflecting-apparatus safely landed.
The wind still continued from N.W., but, most fortunately for the business of the day, the weather was moderate. Having last night called at the Floating-light, it was arranged with Captain Wilson, that he should attend by day-light at the Rock, with one of his boats, to assist in landing the Smeaton’s cargo. The passengers went off first, carrying in their boat the two cases of coloured-glass, and a few other articles, while the Floating-light’s boat followed with the machinery; and by noon the whole of the Reflecting-apparatus was got safely into the Light-house. Mr Forrest having thus been enabled to give advice, which reached the writer on the 17th, that all the articles had been safely landed; and foreseeing that every thing would be in readiness in the course of about four weeks, a specification of the appearance of the light was prepared, to the following effect, for public advertisement.
Monday, 17th.
The Light is advertised to the Public.
“Navigation of the North Seas.—A Light-house having been erected upon the Inch Cape, or Bell Rock, situate at the entrance of the Friths of Forth and Tay, in north Lat. 56° 29´, and west Long. 2° 22´,—The Commissioners of the Northern Light-houses hereby give notice, That the Light will be from oil, with reflectors, placed at the height of about 108 feet above the medium level of the sea. The light will be exhibited on the night of Friday, the 1st day of February 1811, and each night thereafter, from the going away of day-light in the evening until the return of day-light in the morning. To distinguish this light from others on the coast, it is made to revolve horizontally, and to exhibit a bright light of the natural appearance, and a red-coloured light, alternately, both respectively attaining their greatest strength or most luminous effect in the space of every four minutes; during that period, the bright light will, to a distant observer, appear like a star of the first magnitude, which, after attaining its full strength, is gradually eclipsed to total darkness; and is succeeded by the red-coloured light, which in like manner increases to full strength, and again diminishes and disappears. The coloured-light, however, being less powerful, may not be seen for a time after the bright light is first observed. During the continuance of foggy weather, and showers of snow, a Bell will be tolled, by machinery, night and day, at intervals of half a minute.Noticeis hereby also given,That the Floating-light, moored two and a half miles N.W. ½ N. from the Bell Rock, will, from and after the 1st day of February 1811, bediscontinued, and, as soon thereafter as the weather permits, the vessel will be removed from her station.”
“Navigation of the North Seas.—A Light-house having been erected upon the Inch Cape, or Bell Rock, situate at the entrance of the Friths of Forth and Tay, in north Lat. 56° 29´, and west Long. 2° 22´,—The Commissioners of the Northern Light-houses hereby give notice, That the Light will be from oil, with reflectors, placed at the height of about 108 feet above the medium level of the sea. The light will be exhibited on the night of Friday, the 1st day of February 1811, and each night thereafter, from the going away of day-light in the evening until the return of day-light in the morning. To distinguish this light from others on the coast, it is made to revolve horizontally, and to exhibit a bright light of the natural appearance, and a red-coloured light, alternately, both respectively attaining their greatest strength or most luminous effect in the space of every four minutes; during that period, the bright light will, to a distant observer, appear like a star of the first magnitude, which, after attaining its full strength, is gradually eclipsed to total darkness; and is succeeded by the red-coloured light, which in like manner increases to full strength, and again diminishes and disappears. The coloured-light, however, being less powerful, may not be seen for a time after the bright light is first observed. During the continuance of foggy weather, and showers of snow, a Bell will be tolled, by machinery, night and day, at intervals of half a minute.Noticeis hereby also given,That the Floating-light, moored two and a half miles N.W. ½ N. from the Bell Rock, will, from and after the 1st day of February 1811, bediscontinued, and, as soon thereafter as the weather permits, the vessel will be removed from her station.”
List of Newspapers.
To give this Notice publicity, it was advertised in the following Newspapers:
Scotch.
English.
Irish.
Thursday, 27th.
The Light-keepers are left in possession of the House.
The Tender having got a landing made on the 27th December, every thing at the Light-house was found in a prosperous state. Mr Dove and Mr Clark had finished their work about two hours before the Smeaton came in sight; and Mr Slight had also completed all that was proposed to be done to the interior finishing of the apartments this winter; so that Mr Forrest, with Messrs Reid, Bonyman, Leask, and Fortune, the keepers, were now left in possession of the Light-house.
ACCOUNT OF THE BELL ROCK LIGHT-HOUSE, FROM ITS COMPLETION IN 1810 TILL THE YEAR 1823, INCLUDING A STATEMENT OF THE EXPENCE OF THE WORK.
ACCOUNT OF THE BELL ROCK LIGHT-HOUSE, FROM ITS COMPLETION IN 1810 TILL THE YEAR 1823, INCLUDING A STATEMENT OF THE EXPENCE OF THE WORK.
1811, January.
When the artificers left the Bell Rock, on the 27th of December 1810, Mr Forrest’s first object was to take down the rope-ladder, distended in a horizontal position between the entrance-door of the Light-house and the mortar-gallery of the Beacon, as it prevented the door from being conveniently shut, and thereby occasioned a draught of air through the several apartments, rendering the house uncomfortable, and proving injurious to the lustre of the reflectors. In lieu of this, another rope-ladder, fitted with wooden steps, was suspended from a Lewis-bat, inserted into the sill of the door. This ladder, when hauled up, was stowed in the passage, and thus admitted of the door being shut.
Fresh Provisions fall short at the Light-house.
During the last fortnight of the month of January 1811, the weather had been very unsteady, with gales of wind chiefly from the eastward; which prevented the Light-house Yacht, now acting as Tender, from sailing for the Rock till Thursday the 17th. Mr Forrest and the light-keepers were found in good health, and busily employed in their respective operations, now nearly brought to a close. No communication having been had with the shore for the last three weeks, their stock of fresh meat and vegetables was expended; and, looking forward to the possibility of a continuation of similar weather, they had begun to economise the fuel and water before this day’s supply came to hand.
A supply is received.
The next trip which the Yacht made to the Rock was on Tuesday the 29th. A letter from Mr Forrest stated, that he had received a very full supply of every thing, both for the light-room and provision-store, andadded, “Let the weather be how it will, we shall not be in want even of the most trifling article, for a month to come.”
February.
Friday, 1st.
The Light is exhibited.
The day long wished for, on which the mariner was to see a light exhibited on the Bell Rock, at length arrived. Captain Wilson, as usual, hoisted the Float’s lanterns to the topmast on the evening of the 1st of February; but the moment that the light appeared on the Rock, the crew, giving three cheers, lowered them, and finally extinguished the lights. The Yacht had sailed on the 31st of January, for the purpose of taking this ship in tow for Leith, as being no longer necessary here; but in the course of that night, it came to blow so excessively hard from E.SE., that she was obliged to bear away for the Firth of Forth, leaving the Floating-light at her moorings.
Friday, 8th.
A Storm occurs when the House is lighted.
On the 9th, the Yacht returned, and, although a very heavy sea then ran upon the Rock, a landing was effected with a boat-load of coals, water, and fresh provisions. Mr Forrest states in his letter at this time, that every thing on the 1st of February, had been found to answer to his entire satisfaction. He, however, mentions, that the wind blew excessively hard during the three first days after the house was lighted, and that the sprays had risen to the height of 80 feet upon the building. He adds, that, in the course of this gale, all hands had kept watch without intermission for twenty-four hours, with the storm-window-frames at hand, in case of accident, as the plates of glass on the windward side of the light-room had shaken loose, and, by the continued violence of the wind, the putty had been “wrought quite thin, and was softened like mortar.” These plates of glass, measuring each 32½ inches by 26¼ inches, were so fitted with brass-guards that they could not possibly be blown out, in an entire state, but were in some danger of being broken, by pressing upon the window-sashes while the putty was thus softened. Mr Taylor, who upon this occasion commanded the Yacht, had considerable difficulty in approaching the Light-house, and observes, “There being now no attending-boat to accompany our landings at the Rock, I find we must not run such risks as formerly, as, in the event of an accident happening to us singly, no assistance can be got. To-day, one of those heavy rolling seas struck the boat, and pitched her upon one of the ledges, but she was got afloat again before the next breach of the sea reached her, and was afterwards carried like a shot out of the creek.”
Tuesday, 12th.
Floating-light puts into Anstruther.
The wind having shifted to the west, with moderate weather, the Yacht sailed from Arbroath to-day, to take charge of the Floating-light. Having accordingly received a hawser on board, she cast off the chain-cable moorings, on which a buoy was placed, it being impossible, at this time, to lift the mushroom-anchor. The wind was then at N.NE., and the crew were all extremely happy in the prospect of soon finishing their task, declaring that they had been more tired of the Floating-light during the last twelve days, than all the time they had been on board of her. At 10P. M., the wind suddenly shifted to W.NW., and when abreast of the Island of May they wore-ship, for the Floating-light was so unmanageable that she could not be stayed or tacked in the usual manner. They then stood to the north shore, and anchored off Crail during the night, in seven fathoms water. On the 14th, the wind being still down the Firth , it occupied the whole period of the flood-tide to get about six miles to windward, and night coming on, Captains Wilson and Taylor concluded that it would be most prudent for them to put into Anstruther harbour, and there wait for a fair wind. While the Floating-light lay here, the Yacht made a trip to the Bell Rock, and relieved the Light-keepers, when all was found well.
Some of her Crew get married.
At Anstruther a great deal of interest was felt, and people even flocked from a considerable distance, to see a vessel which had been moored, for nearly four years, off the Bell Rock. The singularity and simplicity of her rigging attracted the attention particularly of nautical men, while the thick bed of sea-weed and shell-fish on her bottom, was matter of surprise to every one. The crew had also become so well acquainted in this port, and the neighbouring fishing-towns, that some of them had got married, and if the vessel had remained another week or two in port, the probability is that she would not have had an unmarried man on board.
State of the Floating-light’s bottom.
1811, March.
The Floating-light at length arrived at Leith, on the 8th of March, after a passage of no less than three weeks from her station. The account given of the marine productions on the ship’s bottom, had excited the curiosity of several of the writer’s friends; and, on her arrival, he was accompanied by the Reverend Dr Fleming of Flisk, Dr Leach of the British Museum, and Mr Patrick Neill, Secretary to the Wernerian Society, who examined, with great attention, the numerous crustaceous, testaceous and molluscous animals, and zoophytes, which still adhered in great numbers to her bottom. Mussels of the species called Mytiluspellucidus, were abundant: they were of a large size, the striæ on the shells measuring 3½ inches in length, by 1¼ inch in breadth. Some of the common acorn-shell, Balanus communis, were so large as 1½ inch in diameter. The sea-weeds were chiefly Fucus digitatus and esculentus, and were in general 4 or 5 feet in length. During the time the Floating-light had rode off the Bell Rock, the crew had made a regular practice of picking off considerable quantities of the mussels for fishing-bait for the several vessels in the Light-house service, and also for the artificers at the Rock. It was therefore chiefly in the runs and lower parts of the bottom, where they had never been disturbed, that the animals were in the greatest numbers; and here also the fuci were longest. Next to the keel, the writer measured a compact bed of these mussels and vermes, of the depth of from six to eight inches; and Captain Wilson, upon first seeing her bottom at Anstruther, described it in his letter to be a “complete mussel-scalp.” The timber of the ship, however, was quite sound.
Sunday, 24th.
The Light-keepers get their turns of liberty ashore.
The Light-house Yacht had no sooner got her troublesome charge safely into port, to be dismantled and sold, than she returned to the Rock, to supply the Light-house and shift the keepers; but such was the boisterous state of the weather, that no landing could be made till the 22d, when Mr John Reid relieved Mr John Bonyman, who went ashore in his turn. The Yacht then steered for Leith, when the command of that vessel was given to Captain Wilson, while Captain Taylor took charge of the Bell Rock Tender,—situations for which their services had respectively qualified them.
Letter from the Superintendant Light-keeper.
The Yacht, when last at the Rock, brought a letter from Mr Forrest, in answer to a number of queries, on points to which his attention had been directed, during his residence in the Light-house. He replied with so much intelligence and correctness of observation, that it may be proper here to give his letter verbatim.
Bell Rock Light-house, 14th March 1811.“SIR,“I received your letter of the 7th of January, desiring me to give you an account of every particular occurrence at the Bell Rock during the winter, including the effects of the sea on the building, the comfortableness of the Light-house as a dwelling, and the ability of the light-keepers for their duty. In answer, I will now endeavour to give youthe information wanted, which I shall do in the order of the particulars which you sent me, having, in consequence of your instructions, noticed every thing about the place.Effects of the sea on the building.“Nothing extraordinary happened from the time I came here, on the 15th day of December, till the 1st day of February, when the house was lighted to the public. On that night, it appeared as if nature, on the first lighting of the house, were making trial of the sufficiency of the building. During all that night and the following day, there was nothing to be seen but the sea covered with foam as far as the eye could reach. The only damage we sustained, was the loosening of a number of the panes of glass, which I noticed to you in a former letter. During the gale, the sprays did not rise higher than the bed-room windows, or about 70 feet above the level of the sea. I paid particular attention to your directions, as to whether I could feel the house shake; but I was not then very sensible of this effect, the tides being neap, though, at the time of high-water, there was a kind of vibration felt when the sea did not break till it reached the building. The most sensible feeling, however, of this kind which we have, is when there is a very heavy ground-swell after a gale at N.E. On these occasions, the sea rises at intervals on the building, till the sprays are stopped in their course upwards by the cornice; but this only happens when the heavy swell occurs with spring-tides. On the 15th of February, we felt the vibration very sensibly, which had not so much the effect of shaking, as that of the tremor produced by the striking of the alarm bells, on the balcony of the Light-house, in foggy weather, when the storm-shutters, windows, and hatches are shut. During some gales from the S.E., especially when the wind continues two or three days from that quarter, the seas rise to a great height. At high-water, on these occasions, I have observed the Beacon-house, for perhaps a second or two, completely covered with waves and sprays. But every thing about that fabric remains quite entire, without the least damage that I can discover.State of the Wagon-ways.“I have done all in my power, with the assistance of the light-keepers, to preserve the waggon-ways, and we have frequently forgot ourselves in working at them, till the tide was too far advanced; and, in stormy weather, have been obliged to make a precipitate retreat up the rope-ladder, after a complete wetting. Some of the reaches are notwithstanding much broken up, and it will be a great pity if the remainder do not stand tillthe summer months, when they can be properly secured; for, at times, in the course of this winter, the Tender’s boat has brought us supplies, when, but for the waggon-ways, it would have been just the same as going to destruction, to have attempted a landing.Remarkable effects of the sea in lifting a piece of lead.“I often take pleasure in looking at the seas breaking upon the Light-house, and it is awfully grand, at the time of high-water, to observe the sprays rising to such a height on the building, and even to be on the Rock at low-water, when the waves are about to break. Being in a manner only a few yards distant, they approach as if they were about to overwhelm us altogether. But now that we are accustomed to such scenes, we think little of it. You will perhaps form a better idea of the force of the sea, during these gales, when I relate to you, that, on the 15th of February, the large piece of lead that was used as the back weight of the balance-crane, weighing 4 cwt. 3 qrs. 17 lb., or nearly a quarter of a ton, was fairly lifted by the sea, and carried to the distance of six feet from the hole, in which it had lain since the month of August. It was now found turned with the ring-bolt downwards, and it was with great difficulty that four of us could muster strength enough to return it to its former shelf in the Rock.Direction of the seas which have most effect upon the Light-house.“All the observations which I have made regarding the effects of the seas and weather on the Light-house, while I have been here, lead me to conclude, that when the wind is from the S., S.W., W., N.W., and even N., the sea has little effect on the building; but, from south to north-easterly, the force of the waves is considerable, especially when it comes to blow hard. During the gale of the 22d February, I remarked, that even the heaviest seas, if they broke before they came to the foot of the building, slipped past without giving the least shock to the house; and it is only a very few of the waves that reach the building, in the course of a tide, which cause the vibration alluded to; but we fear those seas only which come from the NE., as they break close upon the house. I may say, in general, that the higher or stronger the wind is, the less power the sea has on the Light-house; the heaviest seas being accompanied with little wind, or occurring after the gale has abated.Comfortable state of the building.“With regard to the comfort of this building as a dwelling, I had no other expectation but that, on account of the sea-air, and newness of the walls, the house would have, in the first instance, been damp. It is,however, the very reverse of this, and I may confidently say, that it is as dry round the inside walls, and on the floors, as any house in Edinburgh. This may be chiefly occasioned by the smoke-tube which passes from the kitchen through the upper floors to the cupola of the Light-room, which contributes greatly to the dry state of the building; but we even find the store-rooms and stair-case, which, as yet, have not the benefit of a fire, also comparatively free of dampness. As a proof of this, it may be noticed, that the lower parts of the house dry pretty readily when the floors are washed, excepting, indeed, when a heavy sea runs, and some water comes in at the checks of the windows, and partially wets the lower apartments. It is, however, impossible entirely to keep out wetness at windows, which, for conveniency, must be made to open, especially when so great a body of water occasionally presses upon them. As to the warmth of the house, ever since we gotThe Jacob’s laddertaken down, and the Entrance-door shut, we have been very comfortable. I never heard the least complaint on this head from any of the Light-keepers, and it is a general remark that we are warmer here than ashore.Qualifications of the Light-keepers.“With regard to your inquiries about the Light-keepers, I may remark, that Mr John Reid, the principal keeper, appears to like his situation very well, though, at first, when the sea struck hard upon the building, he seemed rather sad, and was perhaps not so confident about it. When he was in that mood, I used to cheer him by telling him it was only a fancy; and as he is a very sensible man, and originally bred a seaman and carpenter, his mind readily complies with a belief in our safety. Mr John Bonyman, the principal assistant, appears to take well with his situation; and having been personally employed as a mason from first to last in the erection, and more fully understanding its nature, he always keeps himself very easy upon this point. Mr Henry Leask, though formerly a shipmaster, yet having for several years been a light-keeper, has been much at home with his family, and his attention is naturally drawn more towards them; however, he appears quite satisfied, though he does not speak very confidently about our habitation, but shrugs up his shoulders, and looks strange when he feels the tremor of the house. As to their qualifications as light-keepers, I have not the least hesitation in stating, that Mr Reid and his assistants are now fully competent for their duty. We proceed agreeably to our written instructions, though there are some parts of them which I shall take the liberty of submitting to you for alteration.1811, April.Manner in which they spend their time.“I will now let you know how we come on with what I may call ourdomestic life. When the duty of the house is over for the day, we generally take a walk on the waggon-ways, and search about the crevices of the rock for small fishes, when the state of the tides and weather permit; but when that is not the case, we content ourselves without it, and find amusement in reading a small library, consisting of about a dozen of volumes of one kind or other, collected among us; and you know we have the progressive numbers of the Scots Magazine and the Weekly Chronicle, which we receive as regularly as the situation of the place will admit. I may further notice, that it gives the Light-keepers much pleasure to learn that Mr Slight has received orders, in fitting up the strangers’ room, to provide it with a book-case, which we understand the Commissioners are to supply with books. On Sunday, we attend to the general rule of the service, doing no more work in the Light-room than is necessary, cleaning only the reflectors, lamp-glasses and windows, operations which are usually over at this season about 12 o’clock, after which we meet for prayers, and read two or three chapters of the Bible.“I have perhaps tired you with this long letter, but I could not give you the description you wanted in fewer words. I shall only further add, that we all remain in good health, and that every thing connected with the Light-room apparatus is in good order.—I am, &c. &c.“John Forrest”“To Mr Robert Stevenson,“Engineer for Northern Light-houses.”
Bell Rock Light-house, 14th March 1811.
“SIR,
“I received your letter of the 7th of January, desiring me to give you an account of every particular occurrence at the Bell Rock during the winter, including the effects of the sea on the building, the comfortableness of the Light-house as a dwelling, and the ability of the light-keepers for their duty. In answer, I will now endeavour to give youthe information wanted, which I shall do in the order of the particulars which you sent me, having, in consequence of your instructions, noticed every thing about the place.
Effects of the sea on the building.
“Nothing extraordinary happened from the time I came here, on the 15th day of December, till the 1st day of February, when the house was lighted to the public. On that night, it appeared as if nature, on the first lighting of the house, were making trial of the sufficiency of the building. During all that night and the following day, there was nothing to be seen but the sea covered with foam as far as the eye could reach. The only damage we sustained, was the loosening of a number of the panes of glass, which I noticed to you in a former letter. During the gale, the sprays did not rise higher than the bed-room windows, or about 70 feet above the level of the sea. I paid particular attention to your directions, as to whether I could feel the house shake; but I was not then very sensible of this effect, the tides being neap, though, at the time of high-water, there was a kind of vibration felt when the sea did not break till it reached the building. The most sensible feeling, however, of this kind which we have, is when there is a very heavy ground-swell after a gale at N.E. On these occasions, the sea rises at intervals on the building, till the sprays are stopped in their course upwards by the cornice; but this only happens when the heavy swell occurs with spring-tides. On the 15th of February, we felt the vibration very sensibly, which had not so much the effect of shaking, as that of the tremor produced by the striking of the alarm bells, on the balcony of the Light-house, in foggy weather, when the storm-shutters, windows, and hatches are shut. During some gales from the S.E., especially when the wind continues two or three days from that quarter, the seas rise to a great height. At high-water, on these occasions, I have observed the Beacon-house, for perhaps a second or two, completely covered with waves and sprays. But every thing about that fabric remains quite entire, without the least damage that I can discover.
State of the Wagon-ways.
“I have done all in my power, with the assistance of the light-keepers, to preserve the waggon-ways, and we have frequently forgot ourselves in working at them, till the tide was too far advanced; and, in stormy weather, have been obliged to make a precipitate retreat up the rope-ladder, after a complete wetting. Some of the reaches are notwithstanding much broken up, and it will be a great pity if the remainder do not stand tillthe summer months, when they can be properly secured; for, at times, in the course of this winter, the Tender’s boat has brought us supplies, when, but for the waggon-ways, it would have been just the same as going to destruction, to have attempted a landing.
Remarkable effects of the sea in lifting a piece of lead.
“I often take pleasure in looking at the seas breaking upon the Light-house, and it is awfully grand, at the time of high-water, to observe the sprays rising to such a height on the building, and even to be on the Rock at low-water, when the waves are about to break. Being in a manner only a few yards distant, they approach as if they were about to overwhelm us altogether. But now that we are accustomed to such scenes, we think little of it. You will perhaps form a better idea of the force of the sea, during these gales, when I relate to you, that, on the 15th of February, the large piece of lead that was used as the back weight of the balance-crane, weighing 4 cwt. 3 qrs. 17 lb., or nearly a quarter of a ton, was fairly lifted by the sea, and carried to the distance of six feet from the hole, in which it had lain since the month of August. It was now found turned with the ring-bolt downwards, and it was with great difficulty that four of us could muster strength enough to return it to its former shelf in the Rock.
Direction of the seas which have most effect upon the Light-house.
“All the observations which I have made regarding the effects of the seas and weather on the Light-house, while I have been here, lead me to conclude, that when the wind is from the S., S.W., W., N.W., and even N., the sea has little effect on the building; but, from south to north-easterly, the force of the waves is considerable, especially when it comes to blow hard. During the gale of the 22d February, I remarked, that even the heaviest seas, if they broke before they came to the foot of the building, slipped past without giving the least shock to the house; and it is only a very few of the waves that reach the building, in the course of a tide, which cause the vibration alluded to; but we fear those seas only which come from the NE., as they break close upon the house. I may say, in general, that the higher or stronger the wind is, the less power the sea has on the Light-house; the heaviest seas being accompanied with little wind, or occurring after the gale has abated.
Comfortable state of the building.
“With regard to the comfort of this building as a dwelling, I had no other expectation but that, on account of the sea-air, and newness of the walls, the house would have, in the first instance, been damp. It is,however, the very reverse of this, and I may confidently say, that it is as dry round the inside walls, and on the floors, as any house in Edinburgh. This may be chiefly occasioned by the smoke-tube which passes from the kitchen through the upper floors to the cupola of the Light-room, which contributes greatly to the dry state of the building; but we even find the store-rooms and stair-case, which, as yet, have not the benefit of a fire, also comparatively free of dampness. As a proof of this, it may be noticed, that the lower parts of the house dry pretty readily when the floors are washed, excepting, indeed, when a heavy sea runs, and some water comes in at the checks of the windows, and partially wets the lower apartments. It is, however, impossible entirely to keep out wetness at windows, which, for conveniency, must be made to open, especially when so great a body of water occasionally presses upon them. As to the warmth of the house, ever since we gotThe Jacob’s laddertaken down, and the Entrance-door shut, we have been very comfortable. I never heard the least complaint on this head from any of the Light-keepers, and it is a general remark that we are warmer here than ashore.
Qualifications of the Light-keepers.
“With regard to your inquiries about the Light-keepers, I may remark, that Mr John Reid, the principal keeper, appears to like his situation very well, though, at first, when the sea struck hard upon the building, he seemed rather sad, and was perhaps not so confident about it. When he was in that mood, I used to cheer him by telling him it was only a fancy; and as he is a very sensible man, and originally bred a seaman and carpenter, his mind readily complies with a belief in our safety. Mr John Bonyman, the principal assistant, appears to take well with his situation; and having been personally employed as a mason from first to last in the erection, and more fully understanding its nature, he always keeps himself very easy upon this point. Mr Henry Leask, though formerly a shipmaster, yet having for several years been a light-keeper, has been much at home with his family, and his attention is naturally drawn more towards them; however, he appears quite satisfied, though he does not speak very confidently about our habitation, but shrugs up his shoulders, and looks strange when he feels the tremor of the house. As to their qualifications as light-keepers, I have not the least hesitation in stating, that Mr Reid and his assistants are now fully competent for their duty. We proceed agreeably to our written instructions, though there are some parts of them which I shall take the liberty of submitting to you for alteration.
1811, April.
Manner in which they spend their time.
“I will now let you know how we come on with what I may call ourdomestic life. When the duty of the house is over for the day, we generally take a walk on the waggon-ways, and search about the crevices of the rock for small fishes, when the state of the tides and weather permit; but when that is not the case, we content ourselves without it, and find amusement in reading a small library, consisting of about a dozen of volumes of one kind or other, collected among us; and you know we have the progressive numbers of the Scots Magazine and the Weekly Chronicle, which we receive as regularly as the situation of the place will admit. I may further notice, that it gives the Light-keepers much pleasure to learn that Mr Slight has received orders, in fitting up the strangers’ room, to provide it with a book-case, which we understand the Commissioners are to supply with books. On Sunday, we attend to the general rule of the service, doing no more work in the Light-room than is necessary, cleaning only the reflectors, lamp-glasses and windows, operations which are usually over at this season about 12 o’clock, after which we meet for prayers, and read two or three chapters of the Bible.
“I have perhaps tired you with this long letter, but I could not give you the description you wanted in fewer words. I shall only further add, that we all remain in good health, and that every thing connected with the Light-room apparatus is in good order.—I am, &c. &c.
“John Forrest”
“To Mr Robert Stevenson,“Engineer for Northern Light-houses.”