Floating-light first exhibited.
This being the night on which the floating-light was advertised to be lighted, it was accordingly exhibited, to the great joy of every one. For, besides the benefit to be derived by shipping in general, from this temporary light, it was also to be of great service to the operations at the Bell Rock, as it became a point of reference for the conveniency and safety of the light-house vessels, either in riding at the buoys, or in cruising about the rock. The event of lighting up this ship, was, therefore, ushered in with three hearty cheers, and a dram was served out to all hands.
Wednesday, 16th.
The weather continuing to be moderate, with gentle breezes from NW. to N.NE., this morning the work commenced at the rock at half-past 6, and the boats left it again at a quarter from 9, after the artificers had been at work two hours and a half.
Light-house Yacht becomes a Tender to the works.
The writer was made happy to-day, by the return of the Light-house Yacht, from a voyage to the Northern Light-houses. She had sailed from the Bell Rock on the 5th of last month for the Orkneys, and had passed the Western Islands to the Clyde, returning to the eastern coast by the Forth and Clyde Canal, after having discharged stores at the several Light-houses in her track. The arrival of this vessel was a great relief, as she brought a set of moorings with her for the floating-light, which still rode at single anchor. Having immediately removed on board of this fine vessel of eighty-one tons register, the artificers gladly followed, for, though they found themselves more pinched for accommodation on board of the Yacht, and still more so in the Smeaton; yet they greatly preferred either of these to the Pharos or floating-light, on account of her rolling motion, though in all respects fitted up for their conveniency.
Artificers agree to remain at the rock after their engagement had expired.
The writer called them to the quarter-deck, and informed them that having been one month afloat, in terms of their agreement, they were now at liberty to return to the work-yard at Arbroath, if they preferred this to continuing at the Bell Rock. But they replied, that, in the prospect of soon getting the beacon erected upon the rock, and having made a change from the floating-light, they were now perfectly reconciled to their situation, and would remain afloat till the end of the working season. This was considered a matter of the greatest importance to the success of the work; for, from the circumstances of the bad weather, and the drifting of the floating-light, it seemed extremely doubtful but the whole of the workmen might have been induced to go on shore, which would have deterredothers from embarking in this perilous service, at so advanced a period of the season. At all events, it must have required no small trouble to have brought a new set of men to expertness in the minutiæ of the traffic in boats, and getting in and out of the vessels. Of those who had originally come off to the work on the 17th of August, only one man, already alluded to, who was a great martyr to sea-sickness, had returned to the work-yard.
Thursday, 17th.
Accident happens to one of the boats.
The wind was at NE. this morning, and though there were only light airs, yet there was a pretty heavy swell coming ashore upon the rock. The boats landed at half-past 7 o’clockA. M., at the creek on the southern side of the rock, marked Port Hamilton inPlate VI., which to-day was found to be the most accessible landing-place. But as one of the boats was in the act of entering this creek, the seaman at the bow oar, who had just entered the service, having inadvertently expressed some fear, from a heavy sea which came rolling towards the boat, and one of the artificers having at the same time looked round and missed a stroke with his oar, such a preponderance was thus given to the rowers upon the opposite side, that when the wave struck the boat, it threw her upon a ledge of shelving rocks, where the water left her, and she havingkantedto seaward, the next wave completely filled her with water. After making considerable efforts, the boat was again got afloat in the proper track of the creek, so that we landed without any other accident than a complete ducking. This accident caused us to lose some time; but, as the boats could not conveniently leave the rock till flood-tide, and there being no possibility of getting a shift of clothes, the artificers began with all speed to work, so as to bring themselves into heat, while the writer, and his assistants, kept as much as possible in motion. Having remained more than an hour upon the rock, the boats left it at half-past 9; and after getting on board, the writer recommended to the artificers, as the best mode of getting into a state of comfort, to strip off their wet clothes, and go to bed for an hour or two. No farther inconveniency was felt, and no one seemed to complain of the affection called “catching cold.”
It was a standing order in the landing department, that every man should use his greatest exertions, in giving the boats sufficient force or velocity to preserve their steerage-way in entering the respective creeks at the rock, that the contending seas might not have the command of the boat at places where the free use of the oars could not be had, on account ofthe surrounding rocks. The late accident, accordingly, put all hands more upon their guard, as such an occurrence might have proved fatal to all on board, under a very slight change of circumstances.
Friday, 18th.
Floating-light moored in her new station.
The first object to be accomplished, with the assistance of the Light-house Yacht, was to get the floating-light secured at her new station, an operation which required the finest of weather. To-day, the wind was at NE., and although moderate, it was, of all others, most dreaded at the Bell Rock, the heavy gale of the 6th instant having been from this direction. The writer, however, judged it advisable to proceed with the laying down of the new moorings, and in case of any accident by the slipping of the chain, as formerly, the artificers, instead of going to the rock this tide, were kept on board, that the seamen and all hands might be on the spot to render assistance. These new moorings consisted of 40 fathoms of chain, made from iron-bars of one inch square, with a cast-iron mushroom-anchor, weighing 1 ton 1 cwt. 2 qrs. 4 lb. This anchor and chain, were let down in a depth of twenty-one fathoms, the Bell Rock being from the new station SE. ½ S., distant two and a half miles; Redhead N. by E., distant ten miles; Arbroath N.NW., distant about ten miles; Fifeness SW. by W., distant about eleven miles, and Isle of May SW. by S., distant sixteen miles. The moorings having been laid down on this spot, a buoy was placed upon them. The Yacht then took the floating-light in tow to her new station, where she was made fast to the chain, with a new cable measuring sixteen inches in circumference. This business was successfully accomplished at about 2 o’clockP. M., after six hours of very hard work.
The first cables of the floating-light were of patent cordage, made of the very best materials, and most beautifully laid by machinery. But the sailors complained that these ropes were so stiff and unpliable, that they could neither be got stowed in the hold, nor run freely out of the hause-holes. These difficulties were also more felt with the patent laid cables, after the weather became somewhat cold. It was, therefore, found necessary to get a new cable, laid in the ordinary way, for the winter months.
Smeaton arrives with the beams of the Beacon in tow.
Another important occurrence, connected with the operations of this season, was the arrival of the Smeaton at 4P. M., having in tow the six principal beams of the Beacon-house, together with all the stanchions and other work on board for fixing it on the rock. The mooring of the floating-lightwas a great point gained, but, in the erection of the beacon at this late period of the season, new difficulties presented themselves. The success of such an undertaking, at any season, was precarious; because a single day of bad weather occurring, before the necessary fixtures could be made, might sweep the whole apparatus from the rock. Notwithstanding these difficulties, the writer had determined to make the trial, although he could almost have wished, upon looking at the state of the clouds, and the direction of the wind, that the apparatus for the beacon had been still in the work-yard.
Saturday, 19th.
Preparations for erecting them.
The weather to-day did not prognosticate any thing very favourable; the wind, though in light breezes, continued at NE., and it was occasionally almost calm. The main beams of the Beacon were made up in two separate rafts, fixed with bars and bolts of iron. One of these rafts, not being immediately wanted, was left astern of the floating-light, and the other was kept in tow by the Smeaton, at the buoy nearest to the rock. The Light-house Yacht rode at another buoy, with all hands on board that could possibly be spared out of the floating-light; including also ten additional men, as carpenters, smiths and sailors, brought off for this operation. The party of artificers and seamen which landed this morning on the Bell Rock, counted altogether forty in number. At half-past 8 o’clock, a Derrick or mast of thirty feet in height, was erected and properly supported with guy-ropes, for suspending the block for raising the first principal beam of the beacon; and a winch-machine was also bolted down to the rock for working the purchase-tackle. The necessary blocks and tackle were likewise laid to hand and properly arranged. The artificers and seamen were severally allotted in squads to different stations; some were to bring the principal beams to hand, others were to work the tackles, while a third set had the charge of the iron-stanchions, bolts, and wedges, so that the whole operation of raising the beams, and fixing them to the rock, might go forward in such a manner that some provision might be made, in every stage of the work, for securing what had been accomplished, in case of a change of weather.
Upon raising the derrick, all hands on the rock spontaneously gave three hearty cheers, as a favourable omen of our future exertions in pointing out more permanently the position of the rock. Even to this single spar of timber, could it be preserved, a drowning man might lay hold. When the Smeaton drifted on the 2d of this month, such a spar wouldhave been sufficient to save us, till she could have come to our relief. These preparations for the erection of the Beacon having been previously made, the writer collected the heads of the several departments on board of the Light-house Yacht, particularly the foremen of the builders and joiners, and the masters and mates of the vessels. Here the operation of raising and fixing the first four beams was again talked over and arranged, as, from the very limited period of working on the rock, every thing required to be performed in the most prompt and systematic manner, as previously settled.
Sunday, 20th.
Four of the principal beams erected.
The wind this morning was variable, but the weather continued extremely favourable for the operations throughout the whole day. At 6A. M.the boats were in motion, and the raft, consisting of four of the six principal beams of the Beacon-house, each measuring about sixteen inches square, and fifty feet in length, was towed to the rock, where it was anchored, that it mightgroundupon it as the water ebbed. At 7A. M.the boats of the Floating-light, the Yacht, and the Smeaton, arrived at the rock, when the work immediately commenced. The sailors and artificers, including all hands to-day, counted no fewer than fifty-two, being perhaps the greatest number of persons ever collected upon the Bell Rock. It was early in the tide when the boats reached the rock, and the men worked a considerable time up to their middle in water, every one being more eager than his neighbour to be useful. Even the four artificers, who had hitherto declined working on Sunday, were to-day most zealous in their exertions; they had indeed become so convinced of the precarious nature and necessity of the work, that they never afterwards absented themselves from the rock on Sunday, when a landing was practicable.
Method of raising the principal beams of the Beacon-house.
Having made fast a piece of very good new line, at about two thirds from the lower end of one of the beams, the purchase-tackle of the derrick was hooked into the turns of the line, and it was speedily raised, by the number of men on the rock, and the power of the winch tackle. When this log was lifted to a sufficient height, its foot, or lower end, wassteppedinto the spot which had been previously prepared for it. Two of the great iron stanchions were then set into their respective holes, on each side of the beam, when a rope was passed round them and the beam, to prevent it from slipping, till it could be more permanently fixed. The derrick or upright spar used for carrying the tackle to raise the first beam, was placed in such a position as to become useful for supporting the upper end of it,which now became, in its turn, the prop of the tackle for raising the second beam, which was laid in such a position, that when hoisted up, its foot slipped into its place, when it was, in like manner, lashed to its great iron stanchions on each side. The first and second beams being lashed to one another at the top, served as a pair of sheers, from which the purchase tackle was now suspended, for raising the other two beams, which were also speedily got into their places. The whole difficulty of this operation was in the raising and propping of the first beam, which became a convenient derrick for raising the second, these again a pair of sheers for lifting the third, and the sheers a triangle for raising the fourth. Having thus got four of the six principal beams set on end, it required a considerable degree of trouble to get their upper ends to fit. Here they formed the apex of a cone, and were all together mortised into a large piece of beechwood, and secured, for the present, with ropes, in a temporary manner. During the short period of one tide, all that could further be done for their security, was to put a single screw-bolt through the great kneed bats or stanchions on each side of the beams, and screw the nut home. In this manner each beam, with its respective pair of bats, was fixed, besides being strongly bound together with ropes.
Method of fixing the great iron stanchions into the rock.
While one set of the artificers were employed in this operation, another fixed the great iron-stanchions into the rock, into which they were sunk to the depth of about twenty inches. They were of a dove-tail or wedge form, at the lower end, where they measured an inch and a half in thickness; were about four inches in their medium breadth; and were let perpendicularly into the rock, but kneed or bent to suit the angle which the beams formed with it. These great bats or stanchions had much the figure and appearance of a soldier’s musket; they were five feet in length, and weighed about 140 lb. each. Instead of running the bat-holes full of melted lead, as is common in operations of this kind, but which, in case of friction or movement, is apt to be squeezed out of the holes, all the bats made use of at the Bell Rock, as before noticed, were fixed by means of wedges. Several of the artificers were therefore employed in wedging these stanchions first with fir-timber, then with oak, and lastly with iron, driven into spaces left for this purpose, between the bats and the rock. These wedges were driven so firmly, that although the stanchions were the only fixture for this wooden house, it had not been found necessary to drive any of the wedges a second time.
Have seven hours work upon the rock.
In this manner these four principal beams were erected, and left in a pretty secure state. It, however, required the whole tide to get this much accomplished. Indeed, the men had commenced during ebb-tide, while there was about two or three feet water upon the site of the Beacon, and as the sea was smooth, they continued the work equally long during flood-tide. Two of the boats being left at the rock to take off the joiners, who were busily employed on the upper parts till 2 o’clockP. M., this tide’s work may be said to have continued for about seven hours, which was the longest that had hitherto been got upon the rock by at least three hours.
When the first boats left the rock with the artificers employed on the lower part of the work during the flood-tide, the Beacon had quite a novel appearance. The beams erected, formed a common base of about thirty-three feet, meeting at the top, which, independently of ulterior works, was about forty-five feet above the rock, and here half a dozen of the artificers were still at work. After clearing the rock, the boats made a stop, when three hearty cheers were given, which were returned with equal good will by those upon the Beacon, from the personal interest which every one felt in the prosperity of this work, so intimately connected with his safety.
All hands assemble to prayers.
All hands having returned to their respective ships, they got a shift of dry clothes, and some refreshment. Being Sunday, they were afterwards convened by signal on board of the Light-house Yacht, when prayers were read; for every heart, upon this occasion, felt gladness, and every mind was disposed to be thankful for the happy and successful termination of the operations of this day. The crews then returned to their respective ships, and as nothing further could be done to the Beacon during the night tide, there was no landing made in the evening.
Monday 21st.
The weather most fortunately continued favourable for the operations, the wind being westerly, with fresh breezes. The boats landed at half-past 7A. M., the number of persons on the rock being, as formerly, fifty-two; the work was carried on till half-past 12, making four hours and a half upon the rock. The remaining two principal beams were erected in the course of this tide, which, with the assistance of those set up yesterday, was found to be a very simple operation. In hoisting up the sixth and last log, however, and just when it was about to be kanted into its place, the iron-hook of the principal purchase-block gave way, and this great beam, measuringfifty feet in length, fell upon the rock with a terrible crash; but what is not a little wonderful, although there were fifty-two people engaged round the beacon, yet not one was hurt in the slightest degree by its fall. The beam itself was only a little shaken near the upper end, but was not materially damaged. Another block was immediately hooked, in the place of that which had failed, and the beam was got into its place without much delay. Every possible exertion was now made to fix the lower ends of the beams to the rock, by connecting them with their respective stanchions, while three strong hoops of malleable iron were employed, for securing the whole in one mass at the top.
The six principal beams of the beacon were thus secured, at least in a temporary manner, in the course of two tides, or in the short space of about eleven hours and a half. The only inconveniency attending this operation, arose from the derrick for raising the first beam being rather too short. It was only thirty feet in height, whereas it was found that it would have answered better had it been about forty-five feet. We were also a good deal troubled and perplexed with the logs afloat, from having the six principal beams in two rafts: it would have been more convenient had they been lashed together in pairs, and then rafted in one lot. The writer concludes, upon the whole, that about eight hours only were actually employed in raising the beams of the beacon, and fixing them in a temporary manner. Such is the progress that may be made, when active hands and willing minds set properly to work in operations of this kind.
Tuesday, 22d.
Four of the supporting beams set up.
Having now got the weighty part of this work over, and being thereby relieved of the difficulty both of landing and victualling such a number of men, the Smeaton could now be spared, and she was accordingly dispatched to Arbroath, for a supply of water and provisions, and carried with her six of the artificers who could best be spared. The wind to-day was due west, and blowing so fresh, that the boats had some difficulty in landing the remaining thirty-six persons at 8A. M.who continued on the rock till half-past 12, having had four and a half hours work. During this tide four of the struts, or supporting beams, were set up, butting against the inside of four of the principal beams. These supports were each about twenty feet in length, varying somewhat according to the inequalities of the rock. At the foot they were fixed to the rock with stanchions, similar to those of the principal beams, and at the top they were connectedwith pieces of oak, strongly strapped with iron, collapsing around the principal beams to which they were bolted.
Wednesday, 23d.
The boats have some difficulty in leaving the rock to-day.
Landed at half-past 9 this morning, and succeeded in getting up the two remaining supports, and in fixing several of the bracing chains. But, instead of entering at present into any farther details about the several parts of the beacon, it will be better to refer these to the letter-press description ofPlate VIII.After having been four and a half hours at work on the rock to-day, the boats left it, though not without considerable difficulty, as the wind had been blowing fresh all the last night, and to-day it was shifting and veering about from N.W. to N.N.E., which had already set up a pretty heavy sea. In going out of the eastern harbour, the boat which the writer steered shipped a sea, that filled her about one-third with water. She had also been hid for a short time, by the waves breaking upon the rock, from the sight of the crew of the preceding boat, who were much alarmed for our safety, imagining for a time that she had gone down.
Shipping separated by a gale.
The Smeaton returned from Arbroath this afternoon, but there was so much sea that she could not be made fast to her moorings; she therefore let go her small bower anchor, in order to get a supply of provisions put on board of the Light-house yacht, and receive other six of the artificers to carry ashore. But the anchor was no sooner let go than it broke among the rocks, and the vessel was obliged to return to Arbroath, without being able either to deliver the provisions, or take the artificers on board. The Light-house yacht was also soon obliged to follow her example, as the sea was breaking heavily over her bows. After getting two reefs in the mainsail, and the third or storm-jib set, the wind being SW., she beat to windward, though blowing a hard gale, and got into St Andrew’s Bay, where we passed the night under the lee of Fifeness. In these circumstances, it was impossible for the writer to divest himself of much anxiety for the fate of the newly erected beacon, which was still but imperfectly fixed to the rock.
Thursday, 24th.
At 2 o’clock this morning we were in St Andrew’s Bay, standing off and on shore, with strong gales of wind at SW.; at 7 we were off the entrance of the Tay; at 8 stood towards the rock, and at 10 passed to leeward of it, but could not attempt a landing. The beacon, however, appeared to remain in good order, and by 6P. M.the vessel had againbeaten up to St Andrew’s Bay, and got into somewhat smoother water for the night.
Friday, 25th.
The wind still continues at SW., blowing very hard; at 7 o’clock bore away for the Bell Rock, but finding a heavy sea running on it, were unable to land. The writer, however, had the satisfaction to observe, with his telescope, that every thing about the beacon appeared entire, and although the sea had a most frightful appearance, yet it was the opinion of every one, that, since the erection of the beacon, the Bell Rock was divested of many of its terrors, and, had it been possible to have got the boats hoisted out and manned, it might have even been found practicable to land: the vessel was, therefore, kept in the track of the rock, till it could be determined if a landing might be effected with the afternoon’s tide. The Yacht, in the mean time, stood towards the Redhead on the opposite shore, and at 5P. M.returned; but both the wind and sea had rather increased. At 6 it blew so hard, that it was found necessary to strike the topmast and take in a third reef of the mainsail, and under this low canvas we soon reached St Andrew’s Bay, and got again under the lee of the land for the night. The artificers being sea-hardy, were quite reconciled to their quarters on board of the Light-house Yacht; but it is believed that hardly any consideration would have induced them again to take up their abode in the floating-light.
Saturday, 26th.
Land on the rock after an absence of four days.
In the course of the last night, the wind had shifted from SW. to W. NW., with moderate weather. At day-light, the Yacht steered towards the Bell Rock, and at 8A. M., made fast to her moorings; at 10, all hands, to the amount of thirty, landed, when the writer had the happiness to find that the beacon had withstood the violence of the gale and the heavy breach of sea, every thing being found in the same state in which it had been left on the 21st. The artificers were now enabled to work upon the rock throughout the whole day, both at low and high water, but it required the strictest attention to the state of the weather, in case of their being overtaken with a gale, which might prevent the possibility of getting them off the rock. To-day, one half of the artificers remained on the beacon till half-past 6P. M., having been eight hours and a half at work upon it.
Smith’s forge removed from the rock to the Beacon.
Two somewhat memorable circumstances in the annals of the Bell Rock attended the operations of this day; one was the removal of Mr JamesDove, the foreman smith, with his apparatus, from the rock to the upper part of the beacon, where the forge was now erected on a temporary platform, laid on the cross beams or upper framing. The other was, the artificers having dined for the first time upon the rock, their dinner being cooked on board of the Yacht, and sent to them by one of the boats. But what afforded the greatest happiness and relief, was the removal of the large bellows, which had all along been a source of much trouble and perplexity, by their hampering and incommoding the boat which carried the smiths and their apparatus. The men belonging to that boat were so delighted with this occurrence, that while the bellows were in the act of being hoisted up to their new station, they gave three such hearty cheers, from below, as astonished and surprised those who were working the tackle on the beacon, to such a degree, that, for a moment, they let the rope slip through their hands, and had they not speedily caught hold again, this useful implement might have been dashed to pieces,—which would have been a misfortune of no small import, considering the state of the works at the present crisis.
Sunday 27th.
It being now the period of neap-tides, other ten of the artificers were sent ashore to the work-yard at Arbroath, which reduced our complement at the rock to twenty. The boats landed the people this morning at 11, but the masons had only about an hour’s work on the highest part of the foundation of the light-house, which was only partially left by the water, the joiners and two blacksmiths being busily employed in completing and securing the several parts of the beacon, particularly in screwing the bolts of the stanchions and bracing-chains, and in staying the lower part of the beams. They continued at these operations till 6 o’clockP. M., having been nine hours upon the rock.
Monday, 28th.
The writer sails for Arbroath after having been four weeks afloat.
The joiners and smiths were landed on the beacon at 7A. M., where they continued all day, and were brought off again at 5P. M.The Smeaton had just returned from Leith, where she had been sent for sundry materials connected with the work. The joiners and smiths were ten hours upon the rock to-day, which was the longest period they had hitherto been upon it at any one time. They now had their dinner regularly sent to the beacon, and could continue at work throughout the whole day, while the weather was sufficiently moderate to admit of the boats plying to and from the rock. To-day the water did not leave it, and it was now the seventh day since the lowest part of the foundation or site of the light-house had been seen.The Beacon being now in a comparative state of security, the Smeaton was left at the rock as a tender, and the writer sailed in the Light-house yacht, this afternoon, to inquire into the operations of the work-yard at Arbroath. After setting sail, and looking back upon the Bell Rock, it was quite astonishing to observe the change in the appearance of things, which the erection of these beams had produced. To shipping they became an excellent beacon; while they induced the greatest confidence of safety in all who were actively engaged in this work. The vessel anchored in the bay of Arbroath, at a late hour, when the writer landed, for the first time since the commencement of the working season, on the 17th of August; after having been between four and five weeks afloat.
Tuesday, 29th.
This morning was occupied in going over the work-yard with Mr David Logan, clerk of works, who had charge of the hewing department. The first entire course of the building was now partly laid upon the platform: a few stones of the second course, and several of the higher courses, were also in progress. But from the backward state of the quarries in the production of stones of large dimensions, it was found necessary to make some additional exertions for procuring a more regular supply, and a person was therefore dispatched to the quarries of Aberdeen and Mylnefield for this purpose.
Sails again for the Bell Rock.
Having made some further arrangements in the work-yard, the writer again embarked in the Yacht, and sailed for the Bell Rock this forenoon, carrying with him Mr Peter Logan, the foreman builder, and the artificers who had formerly been at the rock; but who had expressly stipulated that they were not to be obliged to continue longer afloat than the approaching spring-tides, when it was expected the Beacon works would be completely secured for the winter. In the early part of this day, there was little or no wind, but in the afternoon it came to blow very hard from south by west, and in the evening it had increased to a hard gale. Having stood off to the Bell Rock, and put the vessel under low canvas, we hailed the floating-light, and found her labouring very hard with sixty fathoms of cable out. We then stretched to the southern side of the Bell Rock, when the vessel was laid to; but the Smeaton, which was also in company, being a small vessel, and much hampered with boats, was not in a condition to keep at sea, and as soon as the gale got up she stood in for Arbroath, and landed Mr Francis Watt, the foreman-joiner, and the artificers under his charge, to wait a favourable change of weather.
Wednesday, 30th.
The vessels again separated by a gale.
This morning it was calculated, by Mr Gloag, the commander of the Light-house Yacht, that she had drifted about thirty miles, in a SE. direction from the Redhead. About mid-day, the wind shifted to NW., and we steered for St Abb’s Head, which was seen about twilight in the evening, and our course was directed across the Firth of Forth. When in the act of putting about the ship, the stem boat was very nearly lost, having been struck by a heavy sea which unhooked the fore-tackle. At midnight we got within a few miles of the light of May, and soon afterwards found smooth water in St Andrew’s Bay, where we tacked, or “stood to and again,” as the sailors term it, all night.
1807, October.
October, Thursday 1st.
This morning the wind shifted to NE. with moderate breezes. In the course of the forenoon we beat towards the Bell Rock, and sailed round it, when every thing appeared to be in good order about the beacon. Having no shelter in St Andrew’s Bay with this wind, the Yacht stood alternately towards Arbroath and the Bell Rock for the night. The floating-light being a most excellent guide for putting about, before the vessel got too near to the rock. The older sailors on board of the Yacht, on this occasion, made frequent observations as to the utility of this temporary light, expressing their admiration at the change of circumstances which had led to their cruising with so much confidence, both by day and night, in the immediate vicinity of this dangerous rock.
Friday 2d.
Effect a landing at the rock.
The wind having come round to NW. with fresh breezes, it soon run down the north-easterly swell of the sea, and at half-past 1P. M., all hands, to the amount of twenty, landed on the rock, though not without difficulty. Twelve of the masons were engaged during three hours, or till 4 o’clock, in excavating the foundation of the light-house, while the eight joiners and smiths, who also had arrived with the Smeaton, were employed at the works of the beacon for nine hours and a half; and having continued at work by torchlight, they left the rock at half-past 10 o’clockP. M.
State of the Beacon after the late gale.
On carefully examining into the state of things at the Bell Rock, after the late gale, the writer had the satisfaction to find, that the principal beams of the beacon, with their diagonal supports, cross-beams and stanchions connecting them to the rock, had not the smallest appearance of working or shifting, as mechanics express it. One of the tie chains had indeed given way, and hung loosely from the beacon, and one of the bracing screws had wrought off its nut. This was an evidence that the principalbeams from the elasticity of the timber, had been acted upon by the sea, and that they still required some additional stay in the middle. Such, however, were the fixtures of the beacon to the rock with the iron stanchions, and its connection at the top, where it was strongly girt with circular hoops of iron, that it was perfectly firm at both extremities. The central support was intended to be effected by means of strong bars of iron, stretching between the principal beams; but the season was now too far advanced for such an undertaking, and therefore, the bracing-chains, represented inPlate VIII., were attached for the present.
It was not a little remarkable, that notwithstanding the impression which the sea had produced during the late gale, in shaking the beacon, so as to break one of the tie-chains, unscrew one of the bracing-bolts, and in shaking several of the smith’s tools from his hearth on the platform at the top, yet these tools, and other small articles of iron, were all found lying on the rock. The nut of the bolt, for example, was got immediately under the chain from which it had dropped. Several other striking examples of this kind were observable, shewing how little will shelter articles somewhat ponderous in themselves, when they lie at a considerable depth in water.
Saturday 3d.
Working hours greatly extended.
The wind being west to-day, the weather was very favourable for the operations at the rock, and during the morning and evening tides, with the aid of torch-light, the masons had seven hours’ work upon the site of the building. The smiths and joiners, who landed at half-past 6A. M., did not leave the rock till a quarter past 11P. M., having been at work, with little intermission, for sixteen hours and three quarters. When the water left the rock, they were employed at the lower parts of the beacon, and as the tide rose or fell, they shifted the place of their operations. From these exertions, the fixing and securing of the beacon made rapid advancement, as the men were now landed in the morning, and remained throughout the day. But, as a sudden change of weather might have prevented their being taken off at the proper time of tide, a quantity of bread and water was always kept on the Beacon.
Sunday 4th.
The wind was southerly during the fore part of the day, and towards evening it became quite calm. The boats landed the artificers this morning at a quarter before 7 o’clock; when the masons had three and a half hours’ work at the foundation of the building, but the spring-tides were now taking off; the best of them having unfortunately been lost during the late gale. The smiths and joiners, however, continued their operations throughout the whole of the day, and did not leave the rock till half-past 12 at night.
During this period of working at the Beacon all the day, and often a great part of the night, the writer was much on board of the Tender; but, while the masons could work on the rock, and frequently also while it was covered by the tide, he remained on the Beacon; especially during the night, as he made a point of being on the rock to the latest hour, and was generally the last person who stepped into the boat. He had laid this down as part of his plan of procedure; and in this way had acquired, in the course of the first season, a pretty complete knowledge and experience of what could actually be done at the Bell Rock, under all circumstances of the weather. By this means also his assistants, and the artificers and mariners, got into a systematic habit of proceeding at the commencement of the work, which, it is believed, continued throughout the whole of the operations.
Beacon works finished for the season.
The external part of the beacon was now finished, with its supports and bracing-chains, and whatever else was considered necessary for its stability, in so far as the season would permit; and although much was still wanting to complete this fabric, yet it was in such a state that it could be left without much fear of the consequences of a storm. The painting of the upper part was nearly finished this afternoon; and the Smeaton had brought off a quantity of brush-wood and other articles, for the purpose of heating or charring the lower part of the principal beams, before being laid over with successive coats of boiling pitch, to the height of from eight to twelve feet, or as high as the rise of spring-tides. A small flag-staff having also been erected to-day, a flag was displayed for the first time from the Beacon, by which its perspective effect was greatly improved. On this, as on all like occasions at the Bell Rock, three hearty cheers were given; and the steward served out a dram of rum to all hands, while the Light-house Yacht, Smeaton, and Floating-light, hoisted their colours in compliment to the Erection.
Monday 5th.
To-day the wind was westerly, and the weather was very wet; but this was thought nothing of at the Bell Rock, so long as the wind kept moderate. At a quarter past 8A. M.the boats landed the artificers. Themasons had only 2½ hours’ work at the site of the building, owing to the smallness of the ebb-tide; but the joiners and smiths continued their operations till half-past 11P. M., and were consequently 15 hours and a quarter upon the Rock.
Mr Rennie and one of his sons visit the Rock.
In the afternoon, and just as the tide’s work was over, MrJohn Rennie, engineer, accompanied by his son MrGeorge, on their way to the harbour-works of Fraserburgh, in Aberdeenshire, paid a visit to the Bell Rock, in a boat from Arbroath. It being then too late in the tide for landing, they remained on board of the Light-house Yacht all night, when the writer, who had now been secluded from society for several weeks, enjoyed much of Mr Rennie’s interesting conversation; both on general topics, and professionally upon the progress of the Bell-Rock works, on which he was consulted as chief engineer. The weather continued very moderate all night; but although there was little swell in the sea, yet our quarters on board of the Yacht were not the most agreeable, especially to strangers. The vessel, being perfectly new, was so completely water-tight, that it was hardly possible to keep her free of bilge-water, and so strong was the hydrogenous gas or offensive effluvia arising from it, that it had affected the colour of the paint of the cabin floor-cloth, and even, to a certain degree, blackened the silver plate, coins and watch-cases on board, notwithstanding the frequent pumping of the ship, and other means which were taken to sweeten her.
Tuesday 6th.
Works given up for the season.
The artificers landed this morning at 9, after which one of the boats returned to the ship for the writer and Messrs Rennie, who, upon landing, were saluted with a display of the colours from the Beacon, and by three cheers from the workmen. Both the weather and the tide were pretty favourable for the operations, and the masons continued about three hours at work. Every thing was now in a prepared state for leaving the rock, and giving up the works afloat for this season, excepting some small articles, which would still occupy the smiths and joiners for a few days longer. They, accordingly, shifted on board of the Smeaton, while the Yacht left the rock for Arbroath, with Messrs Rennie, the writer, and the remainder of the artificers. But, before taking leave, the steward served out a farewell-glass, when three hearty cheers were given, and an earnest wish expressed, that every thing, in the spring of 1808, might be found in the same state of good order as it was now about to be left.
In concluding the account of the first season’s work, the writer may observe, that he had not at any time previously to his engaging in the Bell Rock works, been more than five or six days at sea on a stretch, even in the course of his voyages to the Northern Light-houses. But on the present occasion he had now been afloat upwards of seven weeks, with the exception of a single day spent in the Work Yard. Upon his return to the shore, therefore, after having successfully closed these critical operations, he felt a mixed emotion of happiness and gratitude, for so prosperous a termination; and, participating in those feelings which are known to actuate the mariner, after a dangerous voyage, he looked with thankfulness to that Providence which had preserved those engaged in the work under so many perilous circumstances.
Number of days the artificers were actually at work.
The period during which the works had been continued, appeared of much longer duration to every one than it really was, for, upon calculating the actual time spent upon the rock, it amounted to about 180 hours, of which only 133 or about 13½ days, of 10 hours each, could be said to have been actively employed. Upon looking back on this result, the writer is astonished at what had been accomplished in so short a period; for besides the erection of the principal beams of the Beacon-house, something considerable had also been done towards the preparation of the site of the Light-house. He cannot, therefore, help thinking, that the experience of this season’s work at the Bell Rock, affords a good example of what may be executed under similar circumstances, when every heart and every hand is anxiously and zealously engaged; for the artificers wrought at the erection of the Beacon as for life; or somewhat like men stopping a breach in a wall to keep out an overwhelming flood.
In stating the progress of the Bell Rock works at the close of the first season, it is hardly necessary to say, that, for success, and ultimate utility, they far exceeded the writer’s most sanguine expectations. By the erection of the frame-work of the Beacon-house, the rock had in a great measure been robbed of its terrors to those employed in building the Light-house. At all times when a boat could be put to sea, or approach this sunken reef, there was not now that actual danger in landing which formerly presented itself. Should the Tender in future go a-drift,or a boat happen to be wrecked on the rock, the Beacon could now be looked to as a place of shelter, till more efficient means could be resorted to. This work had always been a great desideratum with the writer, who had now chiefly to consider how the future steps were to be attained, having much less to occupy his attention in regard to the safety of the people employed.
The whole of the artificers being collected at the work-yard of Arbroath, in the latter end of the month of October, their number amounted to forty-four. It, therefore, became indispensably necessary to get forward with the quarries, otherwise a number of experienced workmen must have been paid off, which would have been attended with much disadvantage to the operations at the rock next year. There was now every prospect that by mid-summer, the foundation or site of the Light-house would be completely excavated and ready for commencing the building; while as yet the hewing of one entire course had not been completed, for want of materials, although the stones of three or four successive courses were in progress. For example, 10 blocks of granite were still wanting of the first course, 30 blocks of the second, which measured 18 inches in thickness, and 20 blocks of the third, and so of other courses. The procuring of a sufficient stock of materials, and getting the quarries into a more regular system of supply, became an object which we shall more particularly notice under the articleBuilding Materials, in the following chapter.