In laying down her Moorings, the whole chain goes overboard.
Some arrangements having been made among the nautical gentlemen, as to the precise mode of going about this operation, it was resolved to suspend the mushroom anchor over the gunwale of the Yacht, and before letting it into the water, to bring the greater part of the chain upon deck, taking the precaution to make the further end of it fast to the lower part of the mast, in the vessel’s hold, with a very strong and perfectly new stopper, or piece of rope, measuring 7 inches in circumference. It was not doubted but that this strong rope would have held the chain against any strain thatmight have been brought upon it, in the process of letting down the moorings. But the mushroom-anchor was no sooner let go from the ship’s tackle, than the part of the chain which had been coiled upon deck went overboard with such velocity, that it communicated a similar impetus to the remainder of the chain in the hold, and the strain coming ultimately upon the stopper, snapped through the several parts which fixed the end of the chain to the mast, and, consequently, the whole went to the bottom with the mushroom-anchor.
Moorings recovered with great difficulty.
This untoward circumstance greatly disconcerted and embarrassed the operations of mooring the floating-light, as the chain had now to be fished or hooked at the bottom, and raised from the depth of seventeen fathoms. After many trials, we at length succeeded in hooking it with a grappling-iron, but as it happened to lay hold only a few fathoms from the anchor, it required all the purchase-blocks and tackle of the Yacht and Pharos to raise it: for the weight, including the anchor, and so large a portion of the chain, could not be less than about three tons. This operation was begun at mid-day, and, although the united force of the crews of both ships was fully mustered, it was not till two o’clock on the following morning,—being a period of fourteen hours,—that the moorings were got up, and the Pharos brought alongside of the Yacht, to receive the hempen cable, which was made fast to theclinch, or great ring, connected with the chain moorings. The weather was fortunately the most favourable that could have been desired for this operation; and it is impossible for the writer to describe the anxiety and exertions of all on board in getting this matter adjusted. Were he to judge by his own feelings, he has no doubt that all on board would join in saying, that it was one of the most painfully laborious days they had spent in the course of their existence. For the space of about twenty hours, the crews of both ships had never been off deck, and during twelve of these the hand-spike, or the tackle, had not been five minutes together out of their hands, as the refreshments which they got were served up at the windlass. The same observations are literally applicable to the gentlemen of the quarter-deck, who divided their attention severally to the different tackles and purchases employed in raising the moorings.
The perplexing and tedious business of mooring the floating-light having been happily got over, it was judged necessary to see how she would ride at anchor for a time, before advertising the light to the public. Thewriter accordingly returned on board in the course of three weeks, and examined the moorings, which were found in good order. The anchorage ground was also considered of a very proper description, in so far as observations, made during a tract of favourable weather, had afforded the means of judging. The vessel lay in an excellent position for the direction of shipping; and being at this time only about a mile from the Bell Rock, her situation as a hulk or store-ship for the light-house operations, was as favourable as the relative position of the rock would admit. In this state of things, notice to the following effect was given in the newspapers, for the direction of mariners, and along with a copy of the notice, a chart or sketch of the opposite coast was sent to the different Custom-houses.
Description of the Floating-Light.
“In virtue of an Act of Parliament of the 46th year of Geo. III. chap. 132. authorising the Commissioners of the Northern Light-houses to erect a Light-house on the Bell Rock, to place a floating light there, and to collect duties thereupon,—notice is hereby given, that a vessel, fitted out for a floating-light, is now moored off the Cape or Bell Rock, situate at the entrance of the Friths of Forth and Tay, in North Lat. 56° 27´, and West Long. 2° 27´.
“The moorings of the floating-light consist of a mushroom anchor, and chain, laid down in 17 fathoms water, the Bell Rock bearing, by compass, E. S. E. distant one mile; the Red Head, N. by E. ¼ E. distant thirteen miles; Fifeness, S. W. ¾ W. distant twelve miles; and the island of May S. W. ¾ S. distant seventeen miles.
“A light from oil, with reflectors, will be exhibited upon the night of the 15th day of September 1807, and thereafter every night, from the going away of day-light in the evening, till the return of day-light in the morning. To distinguish this light from the double lights at the entrance of the Firth of Tay, and on the Scares off the coast of Northumberland, and also from the single light on the Island of May, three distinct lights will be shown from the Bell Rock Floating-light, by a lantern hoisted to the top of each mast, which will be visible from every point of the compass, at the distance of from two to three leagues; the lanterns on the fore and mizen masts being elevated 23 feet, and that on the main mast 31 feet, above the vessel’s deck; the lights, when seen from either side of the ship, have the appearance of a triangle, but if seen end-on, they appear as two lights, the one above the other.
“This vessel is called the Pharos; she was formerly a fishing dogger, and appears like a ship under jury masts; during the day-time, a blue flag, with a light-house in the field, will be displayed from the main-mast; and, in thick and foggy weather, a bell will be tolled, night and day, on board, with an interval of about one minute.
“Although this vessel has been fitted out in the completest manner, and every attention paid to mooring her properly, yet, as all floating-lights are liable to break adrift in tempestuous weather, mariners are requested not to neglect their landmarks, and to run with caution for the floating-light.
“The Pharos being also intended to answer the purpose of a store-ship, while the light-house is building on the Bell Rock, it may be found necessary, in the course of the works, to alter her present station, of which due notice will be given.”
1807, August.
As the commencement of works of masonry, requiring stones of large dimensions, is unavoidably tedious, especially in the collecting of materials, we shall at present only notice, that the Light-house Board having resolved on the use partly of granite and partly of sandstone, for the erection at the Bell Rock, measures were duly taken for procuring a supply of the former from the quarry of Rubeslaw near Aberdeen, and of the latter from Mylnefield near Dundee. But, instead of following out this part of our subject in its order, we shall first proceed to a detail of the operationsafloat, as they may be termed, or of the works upon the rock itself, during the season of 1807,—particularly of the erection of the principal beams of the beacon-house, or temporary residence for the artificers on the rock, and of the progress made in the preparation of the foundation or site of the main building.
Sloop Smeaton.
We therefore observe, that a vessel had been built at Leith, in the course of the spring, expressly for the Bell Rock service, to be employed as a tender for the floating-light, and as a stone-lighter for the use of the work. This vessel was launched in the month of June; she measured 40 tons register, was rigged as a sloop, and fitted in all respects in the strongest manner, to adapt her as much as possible for the perilous service in which she was to be employed. She was called The Smeaton,—a name which the writer had great pleasure in suggesting, as a mark of respect for the memoryof the celebrated engineer of the Eddystone Light-house, whose narrative was to become a kind of text-book for the Bell Rock operations. The Smeaton was ready for sea in the beginning of August, and reached Arbroath upon the 5th day of that month. Arbroath being the most contiguous harbour to the Bell Rock, naturally pointed out itself as the proper place for establishing the works, and preparing the materials, before shipping them for the rock. The writer had, accordingly, been here for some time, making the necessary preparations; and when the Smeaton arrived, he found himself in a condition for commencing the operations, in a systematic manner, upon the rock itself.
The Positions of the Light-House and Beacon fixed on.
The floating-light rode in safety at her moorings, and had hitherto been supplied with necessaries by the Yacht belonging to the general service of the Light-house Board. In this vessel, occasional trips had also been made to the rock; but on the arrival of the Smeaton, the Yacht sailed on a voyage, with stores for the use of the Northern Light-houses. In these preliminary trips, the writer had fixed, in his own mind, upon the parts of the rock most favourable for the position of the light-house, and on the south-west of it, he chose the site of the beacon-house, that it might be sheltered, in some measure, from the breach of the north-east sea; and by placing them contiguous, or about twenty-five feet apart, they admitted of a ready communication with each other in the more advanced stages of the work.
1807, 7th August.
First trip of the Artificers to the Bell Rock.
The Smeaton having got on board necessaries for the floating-light, and three sets of chain-moorings with mushroom-anchors, and large floating buoys, the writer sailed on another preliminary visit to the Bell Rock on the 7th day of August, carrying with him Mr Peter Logan, foreman builder, and five artificers, selected, on this occasion, from their having been somewhat accustomed to the sea; the writer being aware of the distressing trial which the floating-light would necessarily inflict upon landsmen, from her rolling motion. Here he remained till the 10th, and as the weather was favourable, a landing was effected daily, when the workmen were employed in cutting the large sea-weed from the sites of the light-house and beacon, which were respectively traced with pick-axes upon the rock. In the mean time, the crew of the Smeaton was employed in laying down the several sets of moorings within about half a mile of the rock, for the conveniency of vessels riding at the buoys by a hawser, instead of letting go an anchor, which, in that situation, could seldom have been purchasedor lifted again, as it would constantly have hooked the rocky bottom, a disadvantage to which the mushroom anchor, from its figure and construction, is not liable, as will be understood by examining the diagram representing it inPlate X.Fig. 4. The artificers having fortunately experienced moderate weather, returned to the work-yard at Arbroath, with a good report of their treatment afloat; when their comrades ashore began to feel some anxiety to see a place of which they had heard so much, and to change the constant operation with the iron and mallet in the process of hewing, for an occasional tide’s work on the rock, which they figured to themselves as a state of comparative ease and comfort.
Rate of Artificers’ wages fixed on.
In answer to some advances which had been made on this subject by the artificers, the foreman was instructed to select fourteen of the stone-cutters, who had been accustomed to the use of the pick-axe, and to boring or drilling holes with a jumper, after the manner of quarriers, to go off to the rock in the course of a few days. When these men, however, came to be spoken to more closely, some of them were disposed to hold their services rather at a high rate, demanding two guineas per week if they were to find their own provisions, and L. 1, 10s. if provisions were found to them. But they were informed, that the nominal rate of wages was to be L. 1 per week, being the same for those employed at the rock, as for those in the work-yard at Arbroath. The artificers at the rock were, in addition, to have their provisions, with certain premiums, to be arranged in the further progress of the work, particularly for each tide’s work on Sunday, which was to be accounted and paid for as a day’s work. After a good deal of trouble, two or three of the men acceded to the foreman’s proposals, others refused to engage themselves, excepting at the highest rate; while a third party objected only to working on Sunday. In any agreement to be entered into, it was held as an express condition, “That every man who embarked for the work at the Bell Rock, should remain for the space of four weeks, without returning ashore.” Those chiefly wanted at this time were masons from Aberdeen, who were accustomed to the use of the boring-iron and pick, in working granite. Being engaged only from week to week in the work-yard, they were desirous of knowing the reason for remaining a month at the rock; when they were informed that it was not unlikely some of them might suffer from sea sickness, and wearying of confinement on board of ship, might wish to return ashore, which would be attended with much inconveniency to the work, by too frequent achange of hands. They were further told, that, by continuing for one month afloat, they would, in the course of that time, become so sea-hardy as probably to feel no desire to return till the end of the working-season, which, at this advanced period, could not last for many weeks. This condition was considered of importance in the commencement of the work, and it was the more readily agreed to, as the writer assured them that he should himself remain with them during that period. As one condition, however, had been made to the Aberdeen masons, they felt no hesitation in proposing another on their own part, and they accordingly handed the following offer of service, addressed to the foreman, dated 12th August 1807, which, from the tenor of the document, we shall here insert.
Letter from the Aberdeen Masons.
“In consequence of our communing with one another concerning the Bell Rock, we hereby agree to stay with you from the above date, till August 1808, being twelve months certain, and to take our turn at whatever work may start up concerning the Bell Rock business,—only, it is to be understood, that the rest of the masons must take turn and turn about with us: the terms of our agreement to be 20s. per week, summer and winter, wet and dry, with free quarters ashore, and likewise our victuals when we are at the rock.—As for the Sunday’s work and premiums, we leave that to the honour of our employers. (Signed) William Bonyman, John Bruce, John Cruickshanks, Alexander Sherif, John Bonyman, Alexander Davidson, James Macdonald, Robert Ferres, John Mason, William Chalmers.”
Every thing being arranged for sailing to the rock on Saturday the 15th, the vessel might have proceeded on the Sunday; but understanding that this would not be so agreeable to the artificers it was deferred until Monday. Here we cannot help observing, that the men allotted for the operations at the rock seemed to enter upon the undertaking with a degree of consideration, which fully marked their opinion as to the hazardous nature of the undertaking on which they were about to enter. They went in a body to church on Sunday, and whether it was in the ordinary course, or designed for the occasion, the writer is not certain, but the service was, in many respects, suitable to their circumstances. Indeed, the Reverend MrGleg, the minister of the parish, was in the constant habit of enquiring after the success and safety of the works. Throughout this day the weather was remarkably serene, and the best hopes were entertained of a favourable tract of weather, which the inhabitants of Arbroath were disposed to consider as an omen of good fortune.
Monday, 17th.
Twenty-four Artificers embark for the Rock.
The tide happening to fall late in the evening of Monday the 17th, the party, counting twenty-four in number, embarked on board of the Smeaton about 10 o’clockP. M., and sailed from Arbroath with a gentle breeze at west. Our ship’s colours having been flying all day in compliment to the commencement of the work, the other vessels in the harbour also saluted, which made a very gay appearance. A number of the friends and acquaintances of those on board having been thus collected, the piers, though at a late hour, were perfectly crowded, and just as the Smeaton cleared the harbour, all on board united in giving three hearty cheers, which were returned by those on shore in such good earnest, that, in the still of the evening, the sound must have been heard in all parts of the town, re-echoing from the walls and lofty turrets of the venerable Abbey of Aberbrothwick. The writer felt much satisfaction at the manner of this parting scene; though he must own, that the present rejoicing was, on his part, mingled with occasional reflections upon the responsibility of his situation, which extended to the safety of all who should be engaged in this perilous work. With such sensations he retired to his cabin; but as the artificers were rather inclined to move about the deck than to remain in their confined births below, his repose was transient, and the vessel being small, every motion was necessarily heard. Some who were musically inclined occasionally sung; but he listened with peculiar pleasure to the sailor at the helm, who hummed over Dibdin’s characteristic air,
“They say there’s a Providence sits up aloft,To keep watch for the life of Poor Jack.”
“They say there’s a Providence sits up aloft,To keep watch for the life of Poor Jack.”
The weather had been very gentle all night, and, about four in the morning of the 18th, the Smeaton anchored on the spot where it was intended to lay down an additional set of chain-moorings which she had on board. Agreeably to an arranged plan of operations, all hands were called at 5 o’clock,A. M., just as the highest part of the Bell Rock began to shew its sable head among the light breakers, which occasionally whitened with the foaming sea. The two boats belonging to the floating-light attended the Smeaton, to carry the artificers to the rock, as her boat could only accommodate about six or eight sitters. Every one was more eager than his neighbour to leap into the boats, and it required a good deal of management on the partof the coxswains, to get men unaccustomed to a boat, to take their places for rowing and at the same time trimming her properly. The landing-master and foreman went into one boat, while the writer took charge of another, and steered it to and from the rock. This became the more necessary in the early stages of the work, as places could not be spared for more than two, or at most three seamen to each boat, who were always stationed, one at the bow, to use the boat-hook in fending or pushing off, and the other at the aftermost oar, to give the proper time in rowing, while the middle oars were double banked, and rowed by the artificers.
Tuesday, 18th.
Commence work at 6A. M.
As the weather was extremely fine, with light airs of wind from the east, we landed without difficulty upon the central part of the rock at half-past 5, but the water had not yet sufficiently left it for commencing the work. This interval, however, did not pass unoccupied; the first and last of all the principal operations at the Bell Rock were accompanied by three hearty cheers from all hands, and, on occasions like the present, the steward of the ship attended, when each man was regaled with a glass of rum. As the water left the rock about 6, some began to bore the holes for the great bats or holdfasts, for fixing the beams of the Beacon-house, while the smith was fully attended in laying out the site of his forge, upon a somewhat sheltered spot of the rock, which also recommended itself from the vicinity of a pool of water for tempering his irons. These preliminary steps occupied about an hour, and as nothing further could be done during this tide towards fixing the forge, the workmen gratified their curiosity, by roaming about the rock, which they investigated with great eagerness till the tide overflowed it. Those who had been sick picked dulse (Fucus palmatus), which they ate with much seeming appetite; others were more intent upon collecting limpets for bait, to enjoy the amusement of fishing when they returned on board of the vessel. Indeed none came away empty handed, as every thing found upon the Bell Rock was considered valuable, being connected with some interesting association. Several coins, and numerous bits of shipwrecked iron were picked up, of almost every description; and, in particular, a marking-iron letteredJames,—a circumstance of which it was thought proper to give notice to the public, as it might lead to the knowledge of some unfortunate shipwreck, perhaps unheard of till this simple occurrence led to the discovery. When the rock began to be overflowed, the landing-master arranged the crews of the respective boats, appointing twelve persons to each. According to a rule, which the writer had laid down to himself, he was always the last person who left the rock. Another maxim was, to allowthe landing-master’s boat to proceed about twice or three times her own length a-head of the other boats, that in case of accident he might be ready to assist; and when he had thus cleared the rock, he waited till the others got out of the respective creeks; after which they proceeded in company. Upon the present occasion, the boats reached the tender about half-past 8, after having been two hours upon the rock, and three hours absent from the ship.
In a short time, the Bell Rock was laid completely under water, and the weather being extremely fine, the sea was so smooth, that its place could not be pointed out from the appearance of the surface,—a circumstance which sufficiently demonstrates the dangerous nature of this rock, even during the day, and in the smoothest and calmest state of the sea. During the interval between the morning and the evening tides, the artificers were variously employed in fishing and reading, others were busy in drying and adjusting their wet clothes, and one or two amused their companions with the violin and German-flute.
Method of fixing iron-bats into the Rock.
About 7 in the evening the signal bell for landing on the rock was again rung, when every man was at his quarters. In this service it was thought more appropriate to use the bell than topipeto quarters, as the use of this instrument is less known to the mechanic than the sound of the bell. The landing, as in the morning, was at the eastern harbour. During this tide, the sea-weed was pretty well cleared from the site of the operations, and also from the tracks leading to the different landing-places; for walking upon the rugged surface of the Bell Rock, when covered with sea-weed, was found to be extremely difficult, and even dangerous. Every hand that could possibly be occupied, was now employed in assisting the smith to fit up the apparatus for his forge. The frame-work of iron, forming the hearth, was now got into its place; and the four legs which supported it were let into holes, bored from six to twelve inches into the rock, according to the inequalities of the site: and then firmly wedged, first with wood, and then with iron, a method followed in all the operations of batting at the Bell Rock, and found greatly preferable to running in melted lead. The block of timber for supporting the anvil was fixed in the same manner, on which the anvil was simply laid, without any other fixture than the small stud, fitted as usual into its seat, depending upon the gravity of the mass for preserving its place against the effects of the sea. In this state things were left on the rock at 9P. M., when the boatsreturned to the tender, after other two hours work, in the same order as formerly, perhaps as much gratified with the success that attended the work of this day, as with any other in the whole course of the operations. Although it could not be said that the fatigues of this day had been great, yet all on board retired early to rest. The sea being calm, and no movement on deck, it was pretty generally remarked in the morning, that the bell awakened the greater number on board from their first sleep; and, though this observation was not altogether applicable to the writer himself, yet he was not a little pleased to find, that thirty people could all at once become so reconciled to a night’s quarters within a few hundred paces of the Bell Rock.
Wednesday, 19th.
Landing-master’s duty.
It was a rule laid down and adhered to by the writer, throughout the whole of the Bell Rock works, that, as far as possible, the charge should be arranged into departments. It therefore fell to the officer termed theLanding-master, who was also master of the Floating-light, to take the responsibility of the safe and proper landing of the artificers and materials upon the rock. With him, the writer generally arranged the business of the following day; his crew watched the ebbing of the water, and the appearance of the rock, and from the state of the weather, he judged of the proper time for causing the signal bell to be rung, when the boats were to leave the ship for the rock. It was also a special injunction laid upon him to say, from the state of the weather, when it was necessary for the boats to leave the rock and return to the tender.
Indications of the weather.
Being extremely anxious at this time to get forward with fixing the smith’s forge, on which the progress of the work at present depended, the writer requested that he might be called at day-break to learn the landing-master’s opinion of the weather, from the appearance of the rising sun, a criterion by which experienced seamen can generally judge pretty accurately of the state of the weather for the following day. About 5 o’clock, on coming upon deck, the sun’s upper limb or disk had just begun to appear, as if rising from the ocean; and in less than a minute he was seen in the fullest splendour; but after a short interval he was enveloped in a soft cloudy sky, which was considered emblematical of fine weather. His rays had not yet sufficiently dispelled the clouds which hid the land from view, and the Bell Rock being still overflowed, the whole was one expanse of water. This scene in itself was highly gratifying; and when the morning bell was tolled, we were gratified with the happy forebodings ofgood weather, and the expectation of having both a morning and an evening tide’s work on the rock.
Wednesday, 19th.
The boats left the ship at a quarter before 7 this morning, and landed upon the rock at 7. The water had gone off the rock sooner than was expected, for, as yet, the seamen were but imperfectly acquainted with its periodic appearance, and the landing-master being rather late with his signal this morning, the artificers were enabled to proceed to work without a moment’s delay. The boat which the writer steered happened to be the last which approached the rock at this tide; and, in standing up in the stern, while at some distance, to see how the leading boat entered the creek, he was astonished to observe something in the form of a human figure, in a reclining posture, upon one of the ledges of the rock: he immediately steered the boat through a narrow entrance to the eastern harbour, with a thousand unpleasant sensations in his mind. He thought a vessel or boat must have been wrecked upon the rock during the night; and it seemed probable that the rock might be strewed with dead bodies, a spectacle which could not fail to deter the artificers from returning so freely to their work. Even one individual found in this situation, would naturally cast a damp upon their minds, and, at all events, make them much more timid in their future operations. In the midst of these reveries, the boat took the ground at an improper landing place; but, without waiting to push her off, he leapt upon the rock, and making his way hastily to the spot which had privately given him alarm, he had the satisfaction to ascertain, that he had only been deceived by the peculiar situation and aspect of the smith’s anvil and block, which very completely represented the appearance of a lifeless body upon the rock. The writer carefully suppressed his feelings, the simple mention of which might have had a bad effect upon the artificers, and his haste passed for an anxiety to examine the apparatus of the smith’s forge, left in an unfinished state at the evening tide.
Dangerous situation in foggy weather.
After an excellent tide’s work of three hours at the forge, and boring the bat-holes for fixing the Beacon-house, we again took to our boats, and left the rock at 10 o’clock, the one boat preceding and waiting for the other till it cleared the rock, as formerly. In the course of this morning’s work, two or three apparently distant peals of thunder were heard, and the atmosphere suddenly became thick and foggy. But as the Smeaton, our present tender, was moored at no great distance from the rock, the crew on board continued blowing with a horn, and occasionally fired a musket,so that the boats got to the ship without difficulty. The occurrence of thick weather, however, became a serious consideration, in looking forward to the necessary change of quarters to the Pharos, distant about one mile from the rock, instead of a few hundred yards, as in the case of the Smeaton.
Artificers amuse themselves with fishing.
The continuation of the thick and foggy weather was transient, being what seamen term an easterlyhoar, arising from the heat of the weather, which disappeared soon after mid-day. The weather being clear in the evening, the boats landed again at half-past 6 o’clock, when the artificers were employed for two hours, as in the morning, and returned again to the ship about a quarter past 8. The remainder of the day-light was eagerly spent in catching fish, which were got, at this time, in great abundance, both alongside of the vessel and in the boats at a distance; and in the course of an hour about five dozen of codlings were caught, which not only afforded an agreeable relaxation, but afforded a plentiful dish of fish for the different messes on board.
Thursday, 20th.
Complete the fixing of the smith’s forge.
The wind this morning inclined from the north-east, and the sky had a heavy and cloudy appearance, but the sea was smooth, though there was an undulating motion on the surface, which indicated easterly winds, and occasioned a slight surf upon the rock. But the boats found no difficulty in landing at the western creek at half-past 7, and, after a good tide’s work, left it again about a quarter from 11. In the evening the artificers landed at half-past 7, and continued till half-past 8, having completed the fixing of the smith’s forge, his vice, and a wooden board or bench, which were also batted to a ledge of the rock, to the great joy of all, under a salute of three hearty cheers. From an oversight on the part of the smith, who had neglected to bring his tinder-box and matches from the vessel, the work was prevented from being continued for at least an hour longer.
Valuable services of the smith at the Bell Rock.
It may here be proper to notice, that although a considerable quantity of jumpers or boring-irons, picks, and other quarry-tools, had been brought, in good order, for the use of the work; yet, from the extent of work in preparing the foundations, together with the hard and compact nature of the sandstone, of which the Bell Rock is composed, the tools soon became blunt, and the work must have often been completely at a stand, had it not been for the conveniency of having a smith and his forge sonear at hand. The writer doubts not that his readers may be at a loss to account for the operation of the bellows and other apparatus upon a sunken rock, and it may therefore be necessary, in the accompanying description of the plates of this work, to give some explanation of thisarcanumof Vulcan, on which the work had so great a dependence. The smith’s shop, represented inPlate XI.was of course inopen space: the large bellows were carried to and from the rock every tide, for the serviceable condition of which, together with the tinder-box, fuel and embers of the former fire, the smith was held responsible. Those who have been placed in situations to feel the inconveniency and want of this useful artizan, will be able to appreciate his value in a case like the present.Much wanted at the Eddystone.Mr Smeaton often felt the want of a forge permanently upon the rock, and had the foundation of the Eddystone Light-house required more extensive preparations, this useful implement could hardly have been dispensed with; but the Eddystone rock was so small as hardly to have room for it, in addition to other no less necessary apparatus. Could the operations of the blacksmith, at the Bell Rock, have been continued, from the commencement of the operations, even for half an hour longer every tide than the pickmen or quarriers, it would have added much to the facilities and progress of the work. But a stage or platform, in that case, must have been erected, to which there were a number of intervening obstacles, that more than counter-balanced the temporary inconveniency felt from the want of this additional time. It often happened, to our annoyance and disappointment, in the early state of the work, when the smith was in the middle of afavourite heat, in making some useful article, or in sharpening the tools, after the flood-tide had obliged the pickmen to strike work, a sea would come rolling over the rocks, dash out the fire, and endanger his indispensable implement the bellows; or if the sea was smooth, while the smith often stood at work knee-deep in water, the tide rose by imperceptible degrees, first cooling the exterior of the fire-place, or hearth, and then quietly blackening and extinguishing the fire from below. The writer has frequently been amused at the perplexing anxiety of the blacksmith, when coaxing his fire, and endeavouring to avert the effects of the rising tide. In this state of things, the erection of the Beacon was looked forward to as a happy period, when the smith should be removed above the reach of the highest tides.
Much wanted at the Eddystone.
Friday, 21st.
Seals desert the Bell Rock.
The weather still continued to be very fine; though the winds were variable, they rather prevailed from the eastward, and were occasionally accompaniedwith a hazy atmosphere, inclining to fog. The boats landed to-day upon the rock at half-past 7 o’clockA. M., and left it at a quarter past 11, the artificers having had an excellent tide’s work of three hours and three-quarters. Every thing connected with the forge being now completed, the artificers found no want of sharp tools, and the work went forward with great alacrity and spirit. It was also alleged that the rock had a more habitable appearance, from the volumes of smoke which ascended from the smith’s shop; and the busy noise of his anvil; the operations of the masons; the movements of the boats, and shipping at a distance, all contributed to give life and activity to the scene. This noise and traffic had, however, the effect of almost completely banishing the herd of seals which had hitherto frequented the rock as a resting place, during the period of low water. Though these animals were thus prevented from reposing upon the higher parts of the rock, yet they ventured, for a time, to lie upon the more detached outlayers which dry partially: here they seemed to look with that sort of curiosity which is observable in these animals when following a boat. But after the smith established himself, it was rare to see more than one or two of these amphibious animals about the rock, which seemed to be peculiarly adapted to their habits; for, excepting two or three days at neap tides, a part of it always dries at low water, at least during the summer season; and as there was good fishing ground in the neighbourhood, without a human being to disturb or molest them, it had become a very favourite residence of the seal, if we may judge from their numbers, the writer having occasionally counted from fifty to sixty of these animals playing about the rock at a time. But when they came to be disturbed every tide, and their seclusion was broke in upon by the kindling of great fires, together, with the beating of hammers and picks during low water, after hovering about for a time, they changed their place, and seldom more than one or two were to be seen about the rock. The writer felt a desire to protect these animals, with a view to observe their habits, and in hopes of taming them, at least so far as he had observed was done at the Small’s Light-house, off the coast of Pembrokeshire, another favourite resort of seals, where, by gentle treatment, they have become so tame and familiar as to eat bread out of the hands of the light-keepers. But here, indeed, they constantly find a resting place, as some of the Small’s rocks are always above water.
Progress of the work.
We had now been six days out from Arbroath, and, in that time, had the good fortune to have seven successive tides’ work upon the rock, duringwhich, the smith’s forge had been fixed, and twelve holes of 2 inches in diameter and 18 inches in depth, had been bored or drilled into the rock, in the process of excavating the bat or stanchion-holes for fixing the principal beams of the Beacon-house. Hitherto the artificers had remained on board of the Smeaton, which was made fast to one of the mooring buoys, at the distance only of about a quarter of a mile from the rock, and of course a very great conveniency to the work. Being so near, the seamen could never be mistaken as to the progress of the tide, or state of the sea upon the rock, nor could the boats be much at a loss to pull on board of the vessel during fog, or even in very rough weather; as she could be cast loose from her moorings at pleasure, and brought to the lee side of the rock. But the Smeaton being only about forty register tons, her accommodations were extremely limited.Hampered state of the artificers.It may, therefore, be easily imagined, that an addition of twenty-four persons to her own crew, must have rendered the situation of those on board rather uncomfortable. This vessel served as a tender only in fine weather, with the assistance of the boats of the floating-light, for she could not stow boats sufficiently large for attending the rock with such a complement of artificers. The only place for the men’s hammocks on board being in the hold, they were unavoidably much crowded; and if the weather had required the hatches to be fastened down, so great a number of men could not possibly have been accommodated. To add to this evil, theco-booseor cooking place being upon deck, it would not have been possible to have cooked for so large a company in the event of bad weather.
Hampered state of the artificers.
The stock of water was now getting short, and some necessaries being also wanted for the floating-light, the Smeaton was dispatched for Arbroath; and the writer with the artificers, at the same time, shifted their quarters from her to the floating-light.
Saturday, 22d.
Inconveniencies of the Pharos as a tender.
The operations still continued to be favoured with pleasant weather; to-day there were light airs of wind from south-east, and the morning bell was rung at 6. Although the rock barely made its appearance at this period of the tides till 8 o’clock, yet, having now a full mile to row from the floating-light to the rock, instead of about a quarter of a mile from the moorings of the Smeaton, it was necessary to be earlier astir, and to form different arrangements; breakfast was accordingly served up at 7 o’clock this morning. From the excessive motion of the floating-light, the writer had looked forward rather with anxiety to the removal of the workmen to this ship. Some among them, who had been congratulating themselves upon havingbecome sea-hardy while on board of the Smeaton, had a complete relapse on returning to the floating-light. This was also the case with the writer. From the spacious and convenient birthage of the floating-light, the exchange to the artificers was, in this respect, much for the better. The boats were also commodious, measuring sixteen feet in length on the keel, so that, in fine weather, their complement of sitters was sixteen persons for each, with which, however, they were rather crowded, but she could not stow two boats of larger dimensions. When there was what is called a breeze of wind, and a swell in the sea, the proper number for each boat could not, with propriety, be rated at more than twelve persons.
The act of getting into or out of a boat, when alongside of the floating-light, was at all times attended with more or less difficulty; her rolling motion was so great, that the gunwale, though about five feet above the surface of the water, she dipped nearly into it, upon the one side, while her keel could not be far from the surface on the other. This was her state, even in moderate weather, in certain directions of the wind, especially for the period of about an hour, when she wasthwartingto the tide, or rode in what sailors call thetroughof the sea. The act of getting on board was then attended with great difficulty, even to seamen, and was particularly so to landmen, requiring all the attention which the landing-master could bestow, in getting the artificers safely transferred from the boats to the ship, andvice versa.
Difficulty of getting on board and leaving the Pharos.
When the tide-bell rung, the boats were hoisted out, and two active seamen were employed to keep them from receiving damage alongside. The floating-light being very buoyant, was so quick in her motions, that when those who were about to step from her gunwale into a boat, placed themselves upon a cleat or step on the ship’s side, with the man or rail ropes in their hands, they had often to wait for some time, till a favourable opportunity occurred for stepping into the boat. While in this situation, with the vessel rolling from side to side, watching the proper time for letting go the man-ropes, it required the greatest dexterity and presence of mind to leap into the boat. One who was rather awkward, would often wait a considerable period in this position: at one time his side of the ship would be so depressed, that he would touch the boat to which he belonged, while the next sea would elevate him so much, that he would see his comrades in the boat on the opposite side of the ship, his friends in the one boat calling to him to “Jump,” while those in the boat on the other side, as he came again and again into their view, would jocosely say, “Are youthere yet? You seem to enjoy a swing.” In this situation it was common to see a person, upon each side of the ship, for a length of time, waiting to quit his hold. A stranger to this sort of motion was both alarmed for the safety, and delighted with the agility of persons leaping into the boat, under those perilous circumstances. No sooner had one quitted his station on the gunwale, than another occupied his place, until the whole were safely shipped.
Difficulty of keeping boats alongside.
It also formed a critical operation with the sailors to keep the boats at a convenient distance from the vessel, to guard against being too far off; as, in that case, the man, in the act of stepping off the ship’s side, might have been in danger of falling into the sea. If, on the other hand, the boat was allowed to come in contact with the vessel, she would have been in danger of being staved or damaged. This state of things was fortunately not what we had to commence with, as the weather happened to be, as before noticed, serene, and the Smeaton’s sides were comparatively low in the water. The excessive rolling of the Pharos did not therefore come upon the artificers all at once, otherwise some unpleasant accidents must have happened, for in these rolling operations, if a stranger had, in a moment of alarm, let go his hold, at an improper time, he must have been pitched with violence into the sea.
The party being seated in their respective boats, they were pulled to the Bell Rock in about twenty minutes, from the moorings of the Pharos, when the water was smooth and the wind moderate. This morning the boats reached the rock at 8 o’clock; the work commenced exactly at a quarter past 8, and at half-past 11, the water again began to overflow the parts on which the artificers were at work. Every tide now gave the writer more pleasant prospects of the progress of the work than another, especially since the erection of the smith’s forge.