1814.
Light of May first Lighted 1635.
The island of May holds a prominent position at the entrance of the Firth of Forth, as will be seen by referring to thecharts of the coastwhich accompany this work. From its connection also with the estuary leading to the Capital of Scotland, and the principal ports of her commerce, the light of May seems to have been the earliest public light on our shores. Over the entrance door of the old light-house tower, a stone, neatly cut into the figure by which the sun is usually represented, bears the date 1635. It appears, also, from the printed acts of the Scottish Parliament, Vol. v. p. 585., that power was granted, in the reign of Charles I., to James Maxwell of Innerwick, and John Cunninghame of Barnes, to erect a light-house upon the Isle of May, and collect certain duties from shipping for its maintenance:Patent ratified 1641.The patent for this purpose, was ratified by the Scots Parliament in 1641.
Patent ratified 1641.
Much complained of after the Union.
The duties leviable for the light of May produced much dissatisfaction after the Union, English and Irish vessels having been charged with double rates, as foreigners. There was, besides, a general dislike to any thing that was payable in the form of a tax being held as private property. This light being also a coal-fire, exposed in an open choffer to the vicissitudes of the weather, was found to be very insufficient. After the appointment of a Light-house Board in Scotland, in the year 1786, the shipping interest often expressed a desire that the light of May should be included as one of the Northern Lights; that it might undergo the most recent improvements; that, according to the spirit and conditions of the Northern Light-house acts, the invidious distinction between the shipping of the same kingdom, with regard to the light-house duties, might be done away; and also that there might be some prospect of the duties being modified, andultimately ceasing. In the year 1809, the author foreseeing, that notwithstanding the erection of the Bell Rock light-house, the navigation of this part of the coast would still be very incomplete, unless the light of May were improved, took an opportunity of bringing this subject under the notice of the Commissioners of the Northern Light-houses; but it did not then appear that this could be taken up by the Board, unless it were at the instance of the proprietor.
Family of Scotstarvit become Proprietors of the Island.
The family of Scotstarvit, into whose hands the property of the island and light of May came by purchase, in 1714, along with the estate of Westbarnes, in East Lothian, had long been solicited by the trade of the Firth of Forth, to have the light made better, either by enlarging the choffer for containing the coals, or by altering it to an oil light with reflectors.Chamber of Commerce get the Light Improved.Statements to this effect having been laid before the proprietor, by the Chamber of Commerce of Edinburgh, a Committee of that body visited the island in the year 1786, and reported on the state of the light. In consequence of the representation of this Committee, the choffer was enlarged to the capacity of a square of three feet; and, instead of about 200 tons of coalper annum, formerly consumed, the quantity of fuel was now doubled.Wemyss Coal preferred for the Lights.The Chamber further recommended, that the stock of coals, hitherto exposed to the open air on the island, should in future be kept under cover, and that the supply should be invariably got from the collieries of Wemyss, which were preferred as fittest for maintaining a steady light, Wemyss coal being then used at Heligoland, and other coal-lights upon the Continent.
Chamber of Commerce get the Light Improved.
Wemyss Coal preferred for the Lights.
Light of May considered the best Coal-Light in the kingdom.
These conditions were most readily complied with by the tutors of Miss Scott, the proprietor; and the light of May, from that period, was found to be very considerably improved, the choffer for containing the fuel being about double the capacity of any other light-house choffer on the coast of Great Britain. The light of May, from this period, may therefore be described as the most powerful coal-light in the kingdom, although, from its exposure, it was still found to be very unsteady, in bad weather, when most required by the mariner. Lime-kilns and other accidental open firesupon the neighbouring shores, were also apt to be mistaken for the Isle of May choffer. To obviate such dangerous mistakes, there was no other method but the introduction of a light from oil, with reflectors, inclosed in a glazed light-room.Portland Family get possession of the Island.The Trinity-house of Leith, in the year 1790, presented a memorial to this effect, to the Duke of Portland, into whose possession the light and Isle of May had come by his Grace’s marriage with Miss Scott of Scotstarvit. But after many fruitless applications urged from time to time by the Merchants of Leith, to have the light altered, the measure was at length given up by them as hopeless.
Portland Family get possession of the Island.
Loss of the Nymphen and Pallas Frigates.
Early in the morning of the 19th day of December 1810, however, two of his Majesty’s ships, the frigates Nymphen and Pallas, had the misfortune to be wrecked near Dunbar, in consequence, it is believed, of the light of a lime-kiln on the coast of Haddingtonshire having been mistaken for the coal light of the island of May. These frigates having come along the northern coast of Scotland, their situation, as may be seen from the annexed maps, was very different from that of ships approaching the land from a distant voyage, who are much more liable to mistakes of this kind.Their prize-ship arrives in safety.But what renders the error in this instance more unaccountable is, that one of the ships had even sent a boat ashore at Johnshaven, on the opposite coast of Kincardineshire, in the afternoon of the day preceding their loss; and the other, about the same time and place, dispatched a small prize for Leith Roads, under the command of a Midshipman,—who, in his course up the Firth of Forth, saw the Bell Rock floating light, (for at this time the light-house was not completed),—then the lights on the islands of May and Inchkeith in succession, and before day-light in the morning of the 19th he anchored his little vessel in the Roads. In reporting the prize to the Admiral at Leith, this young gentleman expressed his surprise that the frigates had not reached their station before him. In the course of the forenoon of the same day, however, an express arrived, stating the circumstance of the loss of the Pallas, which had happened in the course of the night, about two miles to the eastward of Dunbar. Soon afterwards,another notice arrived announcing to the Admiral the loss of the Nymphen Frigate in the same manner, and from the same mistake. It is not a little surprising, that although these ships had sailed in company, and were wrecked within a few miles of each other, their similar fate was perfectly unknown by the respective crews, till late in the day on which the accidents happened.Nine men drowned.It was, however, so far fortunate, that although the ships became total wrecks, only nine men were lost of their joint crews, amounting to about 600 men; all of whom might probably have perished, from the rocky and exposed shore on which they were stranded, had not the weather been very moderate.
Their prize-ship arrives in safety.
Nine men drowned.
Lord Melville applies to the Light-house Board about the Isle of May Light.
Immediately after the loss of these two fine frigates, valued at not less than L. 100,000, Lord Viscount Melville, first Lord of the Admiralty, applied to the Commissioners of the Northern Light-houses, proposing that the light of May should be assumed as one of the northern lights, and forthwith put under proper regulations.Duke of Portland proposes to alter the Light;It may here be proper to notice, that, prior to this accident, the Duke of Portland entertained serious intentions of altering this light; and the author had been employed to report to his Grace on its alteration, from the use of pit-coal to oil, with reflectors, the expence of which he had estimated at the annual sum of L. 600.And proposes that the Commissioners should become Lessees, which is rejected.The communication from the Admiralty gave rise to a correspondence between the Light-house Commissioners and the Duke of Portland, who proposed to give the Light-house Board an allowance of L. 600per annum, for taking burden of the light of May, while his Grace was to continue to levy the duties. This proposal was rejected on the part of the Commissioners, who declined becoming lessees, under the existing acts or constitution of their Board; and it was ultimately concluded, that they could only take up this measure as purchasers for the public, in order to abolish the charge on English and Irish vessels paying as foreigners, and to lessen the duty for that light to the trade in general. In the present state of the light-house funds, this purchase could only be made by a special act of Parliament, and with pecuniary aid from Government:The Duke demands L. 63,000 for the Light duties and Island.as the sum demanded by the Duke for the island, and the right to the light-duties, was unavoidably great, amounting to no less than Sixty Thousand Guineas.
Duke of Portland proposes to alter the Light;
And proposes that the Commissioners should become Lessees, which is rejected.
The Duke demands L. 63,000 for the Light duties and Island.
Memorial presented to the Admiralty.
In the mean time, Mr Cuningham, Secretary to the Light-house Board, was directed to acquaint Mr Walker, the Duke of Portland’s agent, that the Commissioners could not treat for upholding the light of May for payment of an annual sum. A memorial was then drawn up for the Admiralty, of the whole proceedings in this measure, which was presented by Sir William Rae, Bart., on the part of the Light-house Board; when their Lordships were pleased to give their countenance and support to a bill for the purchase of the light duties and island of May.Isle of May and Duties purchased at L. 60,000.This bill was accordingly brought into Parliament, and passed in the Session of 1814, authorising a loan of L. 30,000 to be made from the Treasury to the Commissioners of Northern Light-houses, and empowering them to make the purchase from the Duke of Portland, for the sum of L. 60,000.
Isle of May and Duties purchased at L. 60,000.
Duty of the Light of May reduced by the Act of 1814.
This important transaction having been closed, the Light-house Board, in terms of this act (46th George III. chap. cxxxvi.) were empowered to reduce the light-duty of the Isle of May, to allBritishvessels, from one penny half-penny, as collected heretofore, to one pennyperton, when English and Irish ships were no longer treated as foreigners, by paying double dues. Immediate measures were also taken for altering and improving the light. It was, however, too late at the end of the session of 1814, to commence operations on the island; but, in the following summer, the new light-house was erected, and a light from oil with reflectors was exhibited, on the 1st day of February 1816, after a coal-light had been continued here for 181 years, or from 1635.
Additional Apartments at the Isle of May.
As the island of May lies about half way between the light-houses of Inch Keith and the Bell Rock, it was thought proper to have two or three apartments in the May Light-house for the reception of such members of the Light-house Board, as might happen to be detained by contrary winds inoccasional visits to the Bell Rock, upon which landing is often very difficult and precarious, depending both on the state of the weather and the tides. The dwelling-house at the Isle of May, therefore, is larger than would otherwise have been required for the accommodation of the two light-keepers and their families.
Notice given of the alterations at Isle of May and Inchkeith.
In consequence of this change upon the light of May, notice was given to the public, that it had been assumed one of the Northern Light-houses, and that the Commissioners had directed a new light-house, upon improved principles, to be erected, which would not only alter its former appearance, but also occasion a change on the light of Inchkeith, situate about twenty-two miles farther up the Firth of Forth. The following description of the Isle of May light was published.
Description of the Light of May.
“The light-house on the Island of May, is situate at the entrance of the Firth of Forth, in North Lat. 56° 12´, and Long. 2° 36´ west of London. From the light-house, Fifeness bears, by compass, N. by E. ½ E., distant five miles, and the Staple Rocks lying off Dunbar, S. by W. ½ W., distant ten miles. The light being formerly from coal, exposed to the weather in an open grate or choffer, was discontinued on the night of the 1st day of February 1816, when a light from oil, with reflectors, known to mariners as aStationary Light, was exhibited. The new light-house tower, upon the Island of May, is contiguous to the site of the old one, and is elevated 240 feet above the medium level of the sea, of which the masonry forms 57 feet, and is therefore similar to the old tower in point of height. The new light is defended from the weather in a glazed light-room, and has a uniformlysteadyappearance, resembling a star of the first magnitude, and is seen from all points of the compass, at the distance of about seven leagues, and intermediately according to the state of the atmosphere.”—Old Light-house converted into a Pilot’s Guard-room.The old light-house tower on the Island of May, has been reduced in height to about 20 feet, and by directions of the Light-house Board, it has been converted into aguard-roomlike that upon Inchkeith, for the use and conveniency of pilots and fishermen.
Old Light-house converted into a Pilot’s Guard-room.
Description of Inchkeith Revolving Light.
The above description, in so far as regards the appearance of the light of May being exactly applicable to that of Inchkeith, described at page25. of this Introduction, it was found expedient to alter it from a stationary to a revolving light, that it might be distinguished from the light of May, where a revolving light would have been liable to be mistaken for the Bell Rock light, owing to the more contiguous position of the May island to the Bell Rock.
The light upon Inchkeith, hitherto a stationary light from oil, with reflectors, was therefore altered and converted into that description of light known to mariners as aRevolving light without colour, on the same night that the change took place upon the Isle of May. The light of Inchkeith is seen from all points of the compass, at the distance of five leagues in favourable weather, exhibiting a bright light once in every minute, and gradually becoming less luminous, it totally disappears to a distant observer. In this manner, each periodic revolution of the reflector-frame, alternately shows a brilliant light, which becomes fainter, and more obscure, until it is totally eclipsed. By this alteration, the same description and appearance of the other lights upon the coast is preserved, and the possibility of mistaking Inchkeith light for the numerous lights on the land, with which it is surrounded, is now also effectually prevented.
1815.
Additional Light proposed for the western coast on Corsewall Point.
It had long been the wish of the mercantile interest of the Firth of Clyde and St George’s Channel, to have a light on the coast of Galloway, to direct ships, on the Scotch side, into the Irish Channel. From the great amount of light-house duties collected upon the western coast, and the extent of light-house works which had of late years been erected upon the eastern shores, including the Bell Rock and Isle of May light-houses,the Commissioners were desirous of accommodating the trade of the western coast, as far as the demands of shipping required, or the state of the light-house funds would permit. It was accordingly resolved, that a report upon this subject, made to the Light-house Board by the author, should be submitted to the trade of Liverpool, Glasgow and Greenock, for their observations. Having in this manner procured the necessary information, it was resolved that a light-house should be erected for the benefit of this coast, upon the northern extremity of the Mull of Galloway in Wigtonshire, on the point of Corsewall; because, in addition to the advantages of this situation, as an excellent direction both for the entrance of the Irish Channel and Firth of Clyde, it would answer as a guide to the Roadstead or anchorage of Loch Ryan.
Light-houses necessary for the navigation of the Irish Channel.
In the course of the correspondence on this subject, it had been stated by Mr Quintin Leitch, Chief Magistrate of Greenock, a gentleman well acquainted with the navigation of these seas, that if light-houses were erected upon the Isle of Man, these, with the lights of Copeland and Kilwarlin, on the Irish side of the channel, together with the proposed light on Corsewall Point, and another on the Hulin or Maiden rocks, off the coast of Antrim, would fully protect this important part of the coast.
Foundation-stone of Corsewall Light-house laid.
After considering the subject in its various bearings, the Board resolved, as before noticed, on the erection of a light-house on Corsewall Point, in the month of January 1815, and on the 17th day of June following, the foundation-stone was laid, by Mr Quintin Leitch, as master mason, when Mr James Spreull, Chamberlain of the city of Glasgow, Mr Lachlan Kennedy, under whose charge the works were placed, and the Engineer, assisted at the ceremony. In the course of the Summer and Autumn, the tower of this light-house was got to the height of 35 feet, and some progress was also made with the walls of the house for the light-keepers.
1816.
Light-house finished.
The works at Corsewall being suspended during winter, were again resumed in the ensuing spring. The light-room was completed in the autumn,and the light was exhibited to the public on the night of the 15th day of November 1816, agreeably to the following description.
Description of Corsewall Light.
“Corsewall light-house is situate in the county of Wigton, in North Lat. 55° 1´, and West Long. 5° 5´. It bears by compass, from Millour Point, on the western side of the channel leading into Loch Ryan, W. by S., distant about two miles; from Turnberry Point, SW. 21 miles; from the Craig of Ailsa SS. W. 15 miles; from the Mull of Kintyre S. E. S. 31 miles; from the Hulin or Maiden rocks on the coast of Antrim, E. by S. 20 miles; from Copeland Light-house, near the entrance of Belfast loch, NE. ½ E. 22 miles, and from Laggan point in Galloway, NE., distant 3½ miles. To distinguish this light, which is from oil, with a reflecting and revolving apparatus, from the other lights upon the coast, it is known to mariners as aRevolving light with colour, and exhibits from the same light-room a light of the natural appearance, alternating with a light tinged with a red colour. These lights, respectively, attain their greatest strength, or most luminous effect, at the end of every two minutes. But, in the course of each periodic revolution of the reflector-frame, the lights become alternately fainter and more obscure, and, to a distant observer, are totally eclipsed for a short period. The light-room at Corsewall is glazed all round, but the light is hid from the mariner by the high land near Laggan Point, towards the south, and by Turnberry Point towards the north. This light is elevated 112 feet above the medium level of the sea, and its most luminous side may be seen like a star of the first magnitude, at the distance of five or six leagues, but the side tinged red being more obscured by the colouring shades, is not seen at so great a distance.”
Rate of Light-house duties for the Isle of Man.
The subject of the erection of the light-houses on the Isle of Man, having again been agitated by the merchants of Liverpool, the rates of duty which would probably be demanded for the erection of a light-house upon the Calf of Man, was procured from one of the agents of the Trinity-House of London upon that coast. This schedule of duties appearing to be high,a correspondence took place between Mr William Laird of Liverpool, and Mr Quintin Leitch of Greenock, respecting the rate of Scotch light-house duties, which was ultimately brought under the notice of the Commissioners of the Northern Light-Houses, by Sir William Rae, Bart.
1802.
Author’s Report on this subject.
Reference having been made to the author relative to the expence of erecting a light-house upon the Calf of Man, he stated to the Board, that, in the course of a tour which he had made in the year 1802, round the coast of Great Britain, he visited the Isle of Man, with a view to ascertain the most eligible places for light-houses on that island, where he considered two light-house stations to be indispensably necessary, viz. one on the Calf of Man, to the south, and another on the Point of Ayre, towards the north of the island. From the numerous shipping of that district, he only calculated upon the duty of one farthingperton upon shipping for the light-houses of both stations. The Commissioners took this matter under consideration at the time, as appears from their minutes of the 14th January 1803, which state, that “Mr Stevenson had reported very strongly of the great utility which would attend the erection of light-houses on the Isle of Man; but that island not being within the jurisdiction either of the Commissioners of the Northern Light-houses or Trinity Board of London, both boards seem thereby to be prevented from accomplishing an object so much wished for by mariners, as such an improvement upon the coast would prove a great additional security to the navigation of those seas, and especially to the trade of a great number of the ports of England and Ireland. In order, therefore, that this circumstance might not be overlooked, the Commissioners direct this notice to be taken of it in their minutes, that if an application to Parliament should, at a future period, be deemed necessary, they may judge how far it may not be proper in them to apply for power to erect lights upon the Isle of Man.”
Scotch Light-house Board applied to for lights on the Isle of Man.
When these circumstances were intimated to the merchants of Liverpool, and especially that the rate of one farthingperton was considered a sufficient rate of duty, the business was brought under the notice of theAssociation of Shipowners and other public bodies of Liverpool, by Mr John Gladstone, when a representation and petition from them was presented to the Commissioners of the Northern Light-houses, praying, that they would bring a bill into Parliament, to enable them to erect the necessary light-houses on the Isle of Man.
Act of 1815.
This application having been complied with, Sir William Rae was requested to attend to the progress of the bill, and to take the assistance of any of the other members of the light-house board who might happen to be in London at the time. The Isle of Man Light-house Bill was accordingly brought forward by Mr Huskisson, in absence of Mr Canning, member of Parliament for Liverpool, as a measure in which that port was specially interested. But when the subject was communicated to the late Mr Rose, M. P., one of the elder brethren of the Trinity House of London, he requested that nothing might be done in this measure, until he should have an opportunity of consulting with the gentlemen of the Trinity-House, as he considered the Isle of Man to be within the district of that board. After repeated meetings, at which Mr Rose attended, he ultimately stated, that the Trinity Board did not consider the Isle of Man as coming under their line of coast; and that the Commissioners of the Northern Light-houses might, therefore, go on with their bill. It was accordingly brought forward in the House of Commons, and the author attended to prove the preamble of the bill in the House of Lords; and in June 1815 it received the Royal assent.
Difficulty in fixing the position of the Isle of Man lights.
In returning towards Scotland, I embarked in the Light-house Yacht at Liverpool, and visited the Isle of Man. It appeared, on examining the site for the erection of a light-house on the Point of Ayre, or northern extremity of the island, that there would be no difficulty in fixing its place. But the case was different at the Calf Island, as there seemed an evident advantage in having the house on a low situation, to keep it more free from fog, and where it might also be more in the line of direction with a dangerous reef called the Chickens, lying about a mile into the offing. On this low position, called Kaager Point, the high land of the Calf would have shutin the light very much from the northward. Another situation, however, presented itself; but, as this last station was considerably higher, it might perhaps be found more uncertain with regard to fog resting upon it in thick and hazy weather; and it was therefore thought prudent to place a trusty person on the island, with directions for observing and communicating the state of the weather for about six months, previously to determining the site of the light-house on the Calf of Man. This mode of inquiring into the subject, was strengthened by the report of some intelligent persons relative to the prevailing state of the weather at the Isle of Man, who represented that the Calf Island was less liable to be enveloped in fog than the higher parts of the Main Island.
A person stationed on the Island to observe the state of the weather.
In the month of August 1815, when Sir William Rae, Bart. then Sheriff of the shire of Edinburgh, Mr Robert Hamilton, Sheriff of Lanarkshire, and Mr Adam Duff, Sheriff of Forfarshire, Commissioners of the Northern Light-houses, visited this island, they concurred in judging it highly proper to make special observations on the state of the weather at the Calf Island. In the beginning of November following, the author accordingly sent Mr Macurich, a shipmaster in the light-house service, to that island, with directions to reside there, and make monthly returns of the state of the weather, agreeably to a printed form. During his stay of seven months, it appears, upon the whole, that the fog rested only twice upon the highest land of the Calf, while it cleared partially below. On one of these occasions, I was on board of the Light-house yacht, then at anchor off the island, when the fog was for a time general; and as the weather became clear, I observed that it first disappeared upon the lower parts of the island; and that in half an hour the whole of the Calf was seen. In the journal of the weather alluded to, the Calf Island is represented as often perfectly free of fog, while the higher parts of the opposite mainland of Man, was hid in mist. To account for this, it may be noticed, that the mass of matter in the Calf island is much less, and the land is also much lower, than in the main island. Part of this effect may also be ascribed to the rapidity of the tides, which create a current of wind, particularly in the narrow channel between theMain and Calf islands; which have a direct tendency to clear away the fog; as I have observed at the Skerries in the Pentland Firth , and in similar situations on different parts of the coast, where rapid currents prevail.
1816.
Distinguishing Light for the Calf of Man.
From these observations, the author was led to report to the Commissioners, that the light-house on the Calf of Man should hold an intermediate position between the highest part of the island, called Bushel’s Hill, and the lower site called Kaager Point; and, further, that by erecting two light-house towers in a certain relative position to each other, they would point out the line of direction of the dangerous sunken rocks called the Chickens, and by adopting that description of light known to mariners as aRevolving light without Colour, this station would be sufficiently distinguished from the lights which surround the Isle of Man on the Scotch, Irish, and English shores.
1817.
Lights of the Isle of Man completed.
A difficulty occurred in proceeding with the Isle of Man light-houses, from the want of funds to enable the Commissioners to proceed with the works. The Board had already become liable for a large sum to liquidate the payment of the purchase-money of the private right of the Portland Family to the duties of the light of May. On this measure, and in the erection of the Bell Rock light-house, as before noticed, there had been expended upwards of L. 160,000 in the course of the last ten years; so that it became necessary to borrow L. 10,000, agreeably to the act, for the Isle of Man. In this state of things, the works at the Isle of Man were delayed for a time; but, in the month of August 1816, they were commenced. The light-rooms were completed in the month of December 1817; and, on the night of the 1st of February 1818, the lights, both at the stations of the Point of Ayre, and Calf Island, were exhibited to the public, agreeably to the following descriptions.
1818.
Description of the Point of Ayre Light-house.
The only consideration to be taken into view in fixing the site of the Point of Ayre Light-house, was the wasting appearance of the shores bythe effects of the sea at this part of the coast. Although, therefore, it would have answered fully better, for the purposes of the light, to have erected the tower close upon high-water-mark, yet the beach being composed of a loose shifting gravel, it became a matter of prudence rather to keep the buildings at some distance from it.
“ThePoint of Ayrelight-house is situate about 650 feet from the sea, at high-water of spring tides, upon an extensive plain in the Main Island of Man, in north latitude 54° 27´, and longitude 4° 20´ west of London. The light-house bears, by compass, from the Mull of Galloway, S. S. E. and is distant 22 miles; from Burrowhead, S. S. W. ½ W. distant 16 miles; from St Bees, in Cumberland, W. by N. ¾ N. distant 29 miles; and from Rue Point, E. by S. distant 4 miles.
“The light is from oil, with a reflecting and revolving apparatus, and is known to mariners as a “Revolving-coloured-light,” exhibiting from the same Reflector-frame a light of the natural appearance, alternating with one tinged red. These lights respectively attain their most luminous effect, at the end of every two minutes. But, in the course of each periodic revolution of the reflector-frame, both lights become alternately fainter and more obscure, and, to a distant observer, are totally eclipsed for a short time.
“The Light-room at the Point of Ayre is glazed all round, but the light is hid from the mariner by the high land of Maughold Head towards the south, and by Rue Point towards the west. Being elevated 106 feet above the medium level of the sea, its most luminous side may be seen, like a star of the first magnitude, at the distance of five leagues; but the side tinged red, being somewhat obscured by the coloured shades, cannot be seen at so great a distance.”
Description of Calf of Man Light.
“There are two leading lights on theCalf of Man, situate on the western side of the small island called the Calf, in north Lat. 54° 5´, andLong. 4° 46´ west of London. These two light-houses are distant from each other 560 feet. The higher light bears by compass from the Mull of Galloway, S. SW. distant 37 miles; Peelhead, in the Isle of Man, SW. distant 11 miles; Langness Point, W. by N. ½ N. distant 6 miles; and from the sunken rocks, called the Chickens, NE. ⅓ E. distant about 1¼ mile.
“These lights are from oil, each light-room being furnished with a distinct reflecting and revolving apparatus, by which they are distinguished from the other lights on the coast, and rendered useful as leading lights for passing the dangerous rocks called the Chickens. The light-house towers, as before noticed, are built at the distance of 560 feet apart, bearing from each other NE. ⅓ E. and SW. ¼ W. Consequently, to an observer, in the direction of the Chickens, both lights will appear in one, or be seen in the same line of direction, and be known to mariners as “Double-revolving and Leading-lights without colour.” These lights will respectively attain their most luminous effect at the end of every two minutes; but, in the course of each periodic revolution of the reflector frames, they alternately become fainter and more obscure, and, to a distant observer, are totally eclipsed for a short time. The two light-rooms at the Calf of Man are glazed all round, but are hid from the mariner by the high land of Peel Head towards the NE. and by Spanish Head in an eastern direction; both lights, however, will be visible at about ¼ of a mile from Langness Point. The lower light is elevated 305 feet above the medium level of the sea, and the high light 396 feet, and they will be seen like two stars of the first magnitude, at the distance of six or seven leagues, in a favourable state of the atmosphere.”
Extension of the Northern Lights to the Irish Sea.
By the extension of the works of the Scotch Light-house Board to the Isle of Man, the system of the Northern Light-houses may now be said, in a general way, to extend over the whole of the coast of Scotland, while the lights of Man are of immediate importance to the extensive shipping of the coasts of England and Ireland, which bound the Irish Sea.The trade of Dublin and Newry, &c. on the one side, and of Liverpool, Lancaster, Whitehaven, and Workington, &c. on the other, find the traffic with those ports much more safe since the erection of these lights. Instead of shunning the Isle of Man, as formerly, owing to the projecting points, sunken rocks, and sand-banks connected with it, the mariner now steers boldly for this island, and takes shelter under it in stormy weather.
Shetland Islands.
According to the existing acts of Parliament relative to the Northern Lights, no additional duty is exigible for any new erections of the Board, as the only part of the coast not liable, prior to the extension of the Scots Light-house Acts to the Isle of Man, was that of the Solway Firth , now also subject to the duty. These acts, however, empower the Commissioners to erect additional light-houses; and when a sufficient number shall have been exhibited on the coast, and a surplus fund provided for their maintenance, the duty on shipping is ultimately to cease, and be no longer payable. Presuming, therefore, upon the prosperity of the commerce of the country, for an increase of funds, the Commissioners, though there were large sums to pay, both in the form of interest for Government loans, and instalments for borrowed money, taking into consideration the unprotected state of the Shetland Islands, a part of their district still without the immediate benefit of light-houses, had in view to erect an additional Light-house, as soon as their funds would admit, on some of the most prominent points of that group of Islands. The winters of 1817 and 1818 having been very unfortunate to the shipping of the North Seas, and some very distressing shipwrecks having occurred at Shetland, Mr William Erskine, now Lord Kineddar, then Sheriff of the County of Orkney and Shetland, andex officioone of the Commissioners, brought the subject again under the notice of the Board; and, in the month of January 1819, it was finally resolved that a Light-house should be erected on Sumburgh Head in Shetland, the position of which will be seenby inspectingPlate III.This work having been accordingly contracted for by Mr John Reid, builder, of Peterhead, the first stone of the building was laid on the 10th day of May 1820, and the light exhibited on the night of the 15th day of January 1821, agreeably to the following specification of the position of the house, and appearance of the light:
Description of Sumburgh Head Light-house.
“Sumburgh HeadLighthouse is situate on the southern promontory of the Mainland of the Shetland Islands, in north latitude 59° 52´, and longitude 1° 15´ west of London. The Lighthouse, by compass, bears from Hangcliff-head in Noss Island SW. by W. ¼ West, distant 21 miles. From Fair Island NE. by E. ½ East, 26 miles. And from the Island of Foula, SE. by S. ¼ South, distant 28 miles. In reference to these bearings, the light is visible to the mariner from the southward, between Noss and Foula Islands. This light is known to mariners as a “Stationary light from oil with reflectors;” and being elevated 300 feet above the medium level of the sea, it is seen, like a star of the first magnitude, at the distance of seven or eight leagues, and at intermediate distances, according to the state of the atmosphere.”
Built with double walls.
From the very exposed situation of the promontory of Sumburgh Head, and the great difficulty experienced in preserving the walls of light-houses in a water-tight state, the writer followed a new plan with the buildings at this station, in having made the whole of the external walls double; the masonry of the outward wall being lined with brick instead of lath-work, with a space of three inches left between the double walls. This method was of course, more expensive in the first instance, but will ultimately be much more economical, as repairs, in these remote situations, are unavoidably very expensive. This house is free of dampness, and has not admitted a single drop of water through any part of the walls during the storms of two successive winters, although the force of the wind is such, that the light-keepers, when out of doors, are frequently obliged to move upon their hands and knees, to prevent their being blown off the high land. In such states of the weather, accompanied by rain, it is hardly possible to prevent a single wall from admitting water.
The Carr forms the seaward termination of a reef of sunken rocks which appear at low-water, extending about a mile and three quarters from the shore of Fifeness, on the northern side of the entrance of the Firth of Forth. The very dangerous position of this rock, as aturning point, in the navigation of the northern-bound shipping of the Firth , will be seen from the chart of the coast,Plate IV.It seemed necessary, therefore, for the safety of navigation, that the Carr Rock, in connection with the several light-houses of the Bell Rock, Isle of May, and Inchkeith, should be made as easily distinguishable to the mariner as possible.
Shipwrecks at the Carr Rock.
The author, while occupied with the works at the Bell Rock, having been often struck with the frequent and distressing occurrence of shipwreck at the Carr Rock, was induced to collect information as to the probable numbers of these wrecks; and he accordingly obtained, from persons who had good access to know, the following list of wrecked vessels, for a period of nine years prior to the commencement of the works at the Carr Rock.
List of Shipwrecks off Fifeness, between the Years 1800 and 1809.Vessels’ Names.Masters’ Names.Descriptions.Port belonging to.Unknown.Simpson.Sloop.South Ferry.Martha.Clark.Do.Crail.Leven.Phillip.Do.Leven.Neptune.Finlay.Do.Dundee.Unknown.Brown.Do.Kincardine.Aurora.Leslie.Brig.Arbroath.Lady Charlotte.Duncan.Sloop.Aberdeen.Two Brothers.Carfrae.Brig.Dundee.Expedition.Nicol.Sloop.Kincardine.Isabella.Rintoul.Do.Perth.Unknown.Johnston.Do.Do.Do.Unknown.Do.John’s Haven.New Deer.Banks.Do.Kirkaldy.Unknown.Hamson.Galliot.Christiansand.Countess of Elgin.Gowans.Sloop.John’s Haven.Unknown.Small.Do.South Ferry.
Floating-buoy moored off the Carr.
By this melancholy list we find, that no fewer than sixteen vessels have, in the course of nine years, been either lost or stranded on the Carr Rocks, being almost at the rate of two wrecks in the year. From this alarming state of things, it was thought advisable to bring the subject under the notice of the Commissioners of the Northern Light-houses, when the Board immediately ordered a Floating-buoy, of a large size, to be moored off the Carr. The moorings for this buoy were laid down, upon the 18th of September 1809, in 10 fathoms water, at the distance of about 200 fathoms, in a north-eastern direction, from the rock. But, owing to the heavy swell of sea, and the rocky sandstone bottom on this part of the coast, it was found hardly possible to prevent the buoy from occasionally drifting, even although it had been attached to part of the great chain, made from bar-iron, measuring 1½ inch square, with which the Bell Rock floating light had been moored for upwards of four years, without injury. The moorings of the Carr Rock-buoy, from the continual rubbing upon the sandstone bottom, were worn through with the friction in the course of ten months; and during the four years which it rode here, though regularly examined and replaced, in the proper season of the year, it was no less than five times adrift, to the great inconveniency and hazard of shipping.
A Beacon of masonry is resolved on.
Under these circumstances, the Light-house Board was induced to erect a Beacon of masonry upon the Carr Rock itself, instead of the Floating-buoy. This work was commenced in the month of June, in the year 1813, under the direction of the writer. The stone for this building was taken from an excellent sandstone quarry on the property of Lord Kellie, near the mouth of Pitmilly Burn: But, owing to the smallness of the rock, the depth of water upon it, and the exposed nature of the situation, the work was afterwards attended with very great difficulty.
Dimensions of the Carr Rock.
The length of the Carr Rock, from south to north, measures 75 feet; but its greatest breadth, as seen at low-water of spring-tides, being only 23 feet, it was found to be impracticable to obtain a base for a building of greater diameter than 18 feet. Such also was the fractured and ruggedstate of the surface of this rock, that it became necessary to excavate part of the foundation-pit of the building to the depth of seven feet. The difficulties of this part of the work were also greatly increased, owing to the foundation, on the eastern side, being under the level of the lowest tides: so that it became necessary to construct a coffer-dam. Part of this coffer-dam it was necessary to remove, and carry ashore, after each tide’s work; and on the return of the workmen at ebb-tide, a considerable time was unavoidably occupied in fixing the moveable part of the coffer-dam, and in pumping the water out of the foundation-pit.