Drawn by J. G. Jackson.Engraved J. C. Stadler.(Tûta) The Chamælion; Natural SizeLondon Published June 4. 1811. by W. G. Nicholl Pall Mall.
Drawn by J. G. Jackson.Engraved J. C. Stadler.(Tûta) The Chamælion; Natural SizeLondon Published June 4. 1811. by W. G. Nicholl Pall Mall.
(Tûta) The Chamælion; Natural Size
London Published June 4. 1811. by W. G. Nicholl Pall Mall.
The length of the camelion when full grown is ten or twelve inches, including the tail. When suddenly discovered, and pursued, it runs fast, forgetting its wonted caution, which is never to trust to the tread of the foot, the toes of which grasp the object they tread on: in its ordinary movements, its step is geometrically exact; it looks carefully around to discover the state of the surrounding place, and to ascertain if every thing be safe, one eye looking behind, the other before, and in all transverse directions; for this organ is a perfect hemisphere, projecting from the head, and moving in various and independant directions. Having ascertained that its feet are safe, and that the substance on which they are fixed is firm, the camelion disengages its tail, and proceeds on, with the same caution, again fastening the tail, by twisting it round some branch or twig, till it has ascertained the safety of the next step.
Many doubts have arisen with regard to the camelion’s mode of changing its colour; from the various and repeated observations which I have from time to time made on this most extraordinary animal, in a confined as well as in a free state, I have been enabled to ascertain, that in gardens (its ordinary resort), it gradually changes its colour, assuming that of the substance over which it passes, and to do this it requires two or three minutes; the change beginning by the body becoming covered with small spots of the colour of the substanceover which it actually passes, and which gradually increase, till it is altogether of that particular colour; green appears its favourite, or at least it assumes that hue more distinctly than any other, for I have seen it on vines so perfectly green, that it was scarcely distinguishable from the leaves; when it assumes a white or black colour these are not clear, but of a dirty hue, inclining to brown. When irritated, it will gradually assume a dirty blackish colour, which it retains whilst the irritation lasts, swelling its sides, and hissing like a serpent; when asleep, or inclined to rest, it is of a whitish cast. In the course of the various experiments which my curiosity and admiration of the camelion induced me to make, I discovered that it never drinks, and that it always avoids wet and rain. I kept three in a cage for the period of four months, during which time I never gave them any food: they appeared withered and thin. Others, which I kept in a small confined garden, retained their original size and appearance; consequently it is to be supposed that they feed on the leaves of vegetables: those confined in the cage did not vary their colour much, appearing generally that of the cage; but if any thing green, such as vegetables, were placed near it, they would assume that hue; those confined in the garden assumed so much the colour of the object over which they progressively passed, as to render it difficult to discover them. Various medicinal qualities are assigned to the flesh of the camelion; and many whimsical effects are attributed to fumigation with it when dried; debilitated persons have recourse to it, and it is accordingly sold in all the drug shops at Marocco, Fas, and other places, which shops are named Hanute El Attari: the smell arising from the fumigation is by no means grateful; but what scent will prevent an Africanfrom using that remedy which credulity or superstition has persuaded him will give strength to the impotent?
The Arabs assert, that the camelion is the only animal which destroys the serpent,[96]and it is said to do it in the following manner: it proceeds cautiously on the bough of some tree, under which the serpent sleeps, and placing itself perpendicularly over its head, discharges a glutinous thread of saliva, having a white drop at the end, which falling on the serpent’s head, soon kills him. This assertion being general and uncontroverted, among the Arabs, I have mentioned it, as a hint to future travellers, who may be desirous of investigating its truth.
The camelion is, by some persons, said to be venemous: but I never knew any harm done by them, though the boys sometimes carry them in their bosoms.
The Dub, or Saharawan Lizard.—This animal always avoids water; it is about eighteen inches long, and three or four inches broad across the back; it is not poisonous, being an inhabitant of Sahara, which, like Ireland, is said to contain no venomous animals:[97]it lays eggs like the tortoise; it is very swift, and if hunted, will hide itself in the earth, which it perforates with its nose, and nothing can extricate it, but digging up the ground. The similarity between the name of this reptile, and the Arabic name of the bear (Dubb), has probably led some persons to assert, that there are bears in Africa.
Locusts (Jeraad).—This destructive creature, which the French call sauterelle, confounding it with the common grasshopper,differs very much from that insect, in the direful effects and devastation it causes in the countries it visits. Dr. Johnson, in his translation of Lobo’s Abyssinia, has rendered itgrasshopper, although it evidently should have been translatedlocust.
Plate 3.Drawn by J. G. Jackson.Engraved J. C. Stadler.(Jeraada) a Locust, natural size.London Published June 4. 1811. by G. & W. Nicholl Pall Mall.
Plate 3.Drawn by J. G. Jackson.Engraved J. C. Stadler.(Jeraada) a Locust, natural size.London Published June 4. 1811. by G. & W. Nicholl Pall Mall.
Plate 3.
(Jeraada) a Locust, natural size.
London Published June 4. 1811. by G. & W. Nicholl Pall Mall.
Locusts are produced from some unknown physical cause, and proceed from the Desert, always coming from the south. When they visit a country, it behoves every individual to lay in a provision against a famine; for they are said to stay three, five, or seven years. During my residence in West and South Barbary, those countries suffered a visitation from them during seven years. They have a government among themselves, similar to that of the bees and ants; and when the (Sultan Jerraad) king of the locusts rises, the whole body follow him, not one solitary straggler being left behind to witness the devastation. When they have eaten all other vegetation, they attack the trees, consuming first the leaves, and then the bark, so that the country, in the midst of summer, from their general rapacity, bears the face of winter. In my travels, I have seen them so thick on the ground, as sometimes actually to have covered my horse’s hoofs, as he went along; it is very annoying to travel through a host of them, as they are continually flying in your face, and settling on your hands and clothes. At a distance, they appear, in the air, like an immense cloud, darkening the sun; and whilst employed in devouring the produce of the land, it has been observed that they uniformly proceed one way, as regularly as a disciplined army on its march; nor will it be possible to discover a single one going a different way from the rest. In travelling from Mogodor to Tangier, before the plague in 1799, the country was coveredwith them: a singular incident then occurred at El Araiche; the whole country from the confines of Sahara to that place was ravaged by them, but after crossing the river El Kos,[98]they were not to be seen, though there was nothing to prevent them from flying across it; moreover, they were all moving that way, that is to the north; but when they reached the banks of the river, they proceeded eastward, so that the gardens and fields north of El Araiche were full of vegetables, fruits, and grain. The Arabs of the province of El Garb[99]considered this remarkable circumstance as an evident interposition of Providence.
This curse of heaven can only be conceived by those who have seen the dismal effects of their devastation: the poor people by living on them, become meagre and indolent, for no labour will yield fruit, whilst the locusts continue increasing in numbers. In the rainy season they partially disappear, and at the opening of the spring the ground is covered with their young; those crops of corn which are first mature, and the grain which becomes hardened before the locust attains its full growth, are likely to escape, provided there be other crops less forward for them to feed upon.
In the year 1799, these destructive insects were carried away into the Western Ocean by a violent hurricane; and the shores were afterwards covered with their dead bodies, which in many places emitted a pestilential smell; that is, wherever the landwas low, or where the salt water had not washed them:[100]to this event succeeded a most abundant crop of corn, the lands which had lain fallow for years, being now cultivated; but the produce of the cultivation was accompanied with a most infectious and deadly plague, a calamity of which the locusts have often been observed to be the fore-runners.[101]The Saharawans, or Arabs of the Desert, rejoice to see the clouds of locusts proceedingtowards the north, anticipating therefrom a general mortality, which they call (el-khere)the good, orthe benediction; for after depopulating the rich plains of Barbary, it affords to them an opportunity of emanating from their arid recesses in the Desert, to pitch their tents in the desolated plains, or along the banks of some river; as was done by one of the kabyles of Tuat, after the plague had depopulated Barbary in the summer and autumn of 1799, and the spring of 1800, when these wild Arabs poured into Draha from Sahara, and settled along the banks of the river of that devastated country.
Locusts are esteemed a great delicacy, and during the above periods dishes of them were generally served up at the principal repasts; there are various ways of dressing them; that usually adopted, was to boil them in water half an hour; then sprinkle them with salt and pepper, and fry them, adding a little vinegar; the head, wings, and legs are thrown away, the rest of the body is eaten, and resembles the taste of prawns. As the criterion of goodness in all eatables among the Moors is regulated by the stimulating qualities which they possess, so these locusts are preferred to pigeons, because supposed to be more invigorating.[102]A person may eat a platefull of them, containing two or three hundred, without any ill effects.
When the locust is young, it is green; as it grows, it assumes a yellow hue, and lastly becomes brown. I was informed by an Arab, who had seen the (Sultan Jeraad) king of the locusts, that it was larger and more beautifully coloured than the ordinary one; but I never myself could procure a sight of it.
The mode of catching locusts is thus: several persons go out in the evening, and where they find the bushes covered,they through Haicks, or garments, over them, beating them with sticks or canes; they then collect the insects together, and put them in a sack, which they will fill, by this means, in half an hour.
A drawing of this devouring insect will be found inPlate 8th, page 103.
The Venomous Spider (Tendaraman).—This beautiful reptile is somewhat similar to a hornet in size and colour, but of a rounder form; its legs are about an inch long, black, and very strong; it has two bright yellow lines, latitudinally crossing its back; it forms its web octagonally between bushes, the diameter being two or three yards; it places itself in the centre of its web, which is so fine, as to be almost invisible, and attaches to whatever may pass between those bushes. It is said to make always towards the head before it inflicts its deadly wound. In the cork forests, the sportsman, eager in his pursuit of game, frequently carries away on his garments the Tendaraman, whose bite is so poisonous, that the patient survives but a few hours.
The Scorpion (El Akarb).—The scorpion is generally two inches in length, and resembles so much the lobster in its form that the latter is called by the Arabs (Akerb d’elbahar) the sea-scorpion: it has several joints or divisions in its tail, which are supposed to be indicative of its age; thus, if it have five, it is considered to be five years old. The poison of this reptile is in its tail, at the end of which is a small, curved, sharp-pointed sting; the curve being downwards, it turns its tail upwards when it strikes a blow.
The scorpion delights in stony places, and in old ruins; in some stony parts of the district of Haha they abound so much, that on turning up the stones, three or four will be found undereach. Some are of a yellow colour, others brown, and some black; the yellow possess the strongest poison, but the venom of each affects the part wounded with frigidity, which takes place soon after the sting has been inflicted.
During the summer, the city of Marocco is so infested with this venomous reptile, that it is not uncommon to find them in the beds; all persons, therefore, who visit Marocco at this season of the year, should have the feet of their bedsteads placed in tubs or pans of water; this precaution will also prevent the attack of bugs, which in summer are a perfect nuisance; but the inhabitants are accustomed to all these sorts of inconveniences, and care little about them.
Most families in Marocco keep a bottle of scorpions infused in olive oil, which is used whenever any person is stung by them; for although the scorpion carries an antidote in itself, it is not always to be caught, as it often stings a person whilst asleep, and disappears before he awakes, or thinks of looking for it; in which event the body of the live scorpion cannot of course be procured. It is necessary to bind the part, if possible, above the place stung, then to cauterize, and afterwards to scarify the puncture, to prevent the venom from pervading the system; this method is sometimes effectual, and sometimes not, according to the situation of the part wounded, and the nature of the scorpion, some being more poisonous than others; but where the flesh of the reptile can be obtained, the cure is said to be infallible.
Musquitos (Namuse).—Musquitos, gnats, and various other kinds of annoying insects, appear to have made the lakes of West Barbary their general rendezvous. I was once compelledto encamp, during the night, on the banks of the lake of Mamora (having travelled, on horseback, a fatiguing day’s journey of fifty-six miles), where I was intolerably tormented with the musquitos; it being suggested, that they were attracted by the lights in the tents, these were extinguished, but without affording any relief: fatigued as I was, as well as every one else, I endeavoured in vain to sleep, and was at length obliged to cause the tents to be struck, the camels loaded, and to proceed on my way in the night, all which the servants and Arabs cheerfully performed, though nearly exhausted with the heat of the preceding day. In the morning, I found my face and hands in a most deplorable condition, being similar to those of a person in the worst stage of the small-pox.
The musquitos and other insects attack strangers with great keenness, biting them, and sucking their blood in a most distressing manner. The thick skins of the Arabs, exposed daily to the scorching heat of the sun, are impenetrable to their bite, otherwise they would not be able to exist; for although the country is productive, and the soil good, yet nothing can compensate for the vexation arising from the unremitted attacks of these irritating insects.
Cricket.—This insect abounds in the Atlas mountains, piercing the still air of night with its incessant noise. They are very large, having beautiful gray wings, covered with several gold coloured spots; the back is yellow, variegated with green.
Serpents (Henushe).—Of these there are various species in Barbary, but two only are extremely venomous; the one is of a black colour, about seven or eight feet long, with a small head, which it expands frequently to four times its ordinary size, when about to attack any object. This serpent is calledBûska, andis the only one that will attack travellers; in doing which, it coils itself up, and darts to a great distance, by the elasticity of its body and tail. I have seen it coil itself, and erect its head about twelve or eighteen inches above the ground, expanding it at the same time when it darted forward. The wound inflicted by the bite is small, but the surrounding part immediately turns black, which colour soon pervades the whole body, and the sufferer expires in a very short time. This serpent is carried about by the (Aisawie[103]) charmers of serpents.
Plate 4.The Bûskah.Drawn by J. G. Jackson.Engraved J. C. Stadler.London Published June 4. 1811. by G. & W. Nicholl Pall Mall.
Plate 4.The Bûskah.Drawn by J. G. Jackson.Engraved J. C. Stadler.London Published June 4. 1811. by G. & W. Nicholl Pall Mall.
Plate 4.
The Bûskah.
London Published June 4. 1811. by G. & W. Nicholl Pall Mall.
El Effahis the name of the other serpent remarkable for itsquick and penetrating poison; it is about two feet long, and as thick as a man’s arm, beautifully spotted with yellow and brown, and sprinkled over with blackish specks, similar to the horn-nosed snake. They have a wide mouth, by which they inhale a great quantity of air, and when inflated therewith, they eject it with such force as to be heard at a considerable distance. These mortal enemies to mankind are collected by the Aisawie before-mentioned, in a desert of Suse, where their holes are so numerous, that it is difficult for a horse to pass over it without stumbling.
Plate 5.El Efah.Drawn by J. G. Jackson.Engraved J. C. Stadler.London Published June 4. 1811. by G. & W. Nicholl Pall Mall.
Plate 5.El Efah.Drawn by J. G. Jackson.Engraved J. C. Stadler.London Published June 4. 1811. by G. & W. Nicholl Pall Mall.
Plate 5.
El Efah.
London Published June 4. 1811. by G. & W. Nicholl Pall Mall.
The Boah, or desert snake, is an enormous monster, from twenty to eighty feet long, as thick as a man’s body, and of a dingy colour: this inhabitant of Sahara is not venomous, though it is not less destructive: the Arabs (speaking of it figuratively)[104]affirm, that as it passes along the desert it fires the ground with the velocity of its motion. It is impossible to escape it; it will twist itself round an ox, and after crushing its bones, will swallow it gradually, after which it lies supinely on the ground two or three days, unable to proceed till the animal be digested. Two of these monsters stationed themselves near the road from Marocco to Terodant, near to the latter city, a few years since; one of them was killed, the other remained there several days, and prevented travellers from passing the road: they were both young ones, being about twenty feet long. Various stories are related by the Arabs of Sahara respecting the Boahs; but they are mostly ingenious fables, originally intended to inculcate some moral lesson. Without speaking of all the various kinds of serpents which are either timid, harmless or not venomous, I must observe, that
The Domestic Serpentsclaim some attention. In the city of Marocco these animals abound; there is scarcely a house without its domestic serpent, which is sometimes seen moving along the roofs of the apartments; they are never molested by the family, who would not hurt them on any consideration, conceiving them a benediction on the household; they have been known to suck the breasts of women whilst asleep, and retire without offering any further injury. They are so susceptible, as to be sensible of enmity towards them, and it is thought imprudent to incur their displeasure; for this reason the inhabitants of Marocco treat them kindly, and as members of the family, not wishing to disturb an animal that claims the rights of hospitality by settling in their house.
The Tortoise.(Fackrone.)Land-tortoises of a very large size abound in Barbary and in Suse, where, in the afternoon of a hot day, one may collect a dozen in the course of an hour. They are esteemed good eating by the French, and the inhabitants of the shores of the Mediterranean.[105]The wonderful geometrical construction of this animal is such, that it will bear a ton weight on its back.
In Sahara the turpins, or land tortoises, are reported to be very large, weighing four, five, or six hundred weight; but I never heard of any like those found at the time Leo Africanus wrote, who mentions a man who had seen one as big as a tun, and he himself says he saw one the size of a barrel.
The Ostrich.—Ennaamis the name given by the Western Arabs to the ostrich; it is found on the confines of Sahara, in every part from Wedinoon on the western ocean as far as Senaar: those which are taken about Wedinoon and Cape Bojador are the largest in the world, and have the finest plumage; the feathers of the male bird are the best, being thicker and more tufted than those of the female: the black feathers are taken from the tail; the fine long white plumes used by our females of fashion are from the fore part of the wings: the smaller feathers of the wing are also sometimes black. I have seen ostriches from Cape Bojador eight feet high from the foot to the beak, when the neck was erect, which is the natural position. The ostrich appears to be a stupid bird, and indifferent to every thing; taking no notice of persons, except they have metal buttons on their clothes, at which they will eagerly snap; it is not however to be credited that they digest iron or any other metal, although pieces of such are often found in their stomachs, when cut up by the hunters.
The ostrich forms the intermediate gradation between the bird and the beast, for it neither simply flies nor runs, but rather does both, never rising however from the ground, but is assisted considerably by its wings, in its progress through the desert, running over many hundred miles of ground in a short time. They are sometimes seen in Sahara by the Akkabahs of Soudan, in great numbers, appearing at a distance, at twilight, like a host of plundering Arabs.
The ostrich lays several eggs, of the size of an African citron, or a six-and-thirty pound shot, white, and of an oval form,weighing from eight to ten pounds; after laying these eggs, the bird goes away, forgetting or forsaking them, and if some other ostrich discover them, she hatches them, as if they were her own, forgetting probably whether they are or are not; so deficient is the recollection of this bird. In addition to their usual food, they swallow stones, gravel, sand, and metals; it is not ascertained whether they drink or not.
Among the various animals which the Arabs hunt for sport or profit, that which most fully rewards their exertions, is the ostrich: a party of about twenty Arabs, mounted on the desert horses already described,[106]set out together, riding gently against the wind, one after the other, at the distance of about half a mile asunder; they walk on, tracing the foot-marks, till they discover those of the ostrich, which they then follow; when they come in sight of their game, they rush towards it at full speed, always keeping nearly the same distance as at first; the bird finding her wings an impediment to her progress against the wind, turns towards the horsemen, and after escaping the first and second, is perhaps shot, or brought down by the third or fourth, or some of those that follow; they are, however, often a whole day in the chase before they secure their bird. Were it not for this stratagem, aided by the stupidity of the ostrich, it would be impossible to take it. The Saharawans carry muskets, but in hunting the ostrich they rarely use them, trusting rather to their Zerwata, which is a stick about two feet long, and three inches in circumference, taken from the Alk Soudan tree, or the tree that produces the Senegal gum, being a hard close-grained heavy wood; this Zerwata they throw with extraordinary dexterity at the legs of the birds, and bybreaking or maiming them, impede their progress, and by that means secure them. Having cut the throat according to the Mohammedan practice, they pluck off the feathers and divide them, as well as the carcase, into different portions: on these occasions, as on all others, whether in hunting, pillaging, or attacking (Akkabahs) the accumulated caravans from Soudan, they divide the booty into as many shares as there are persons to partake, caring but little about the equality of them; then each person taking something that he has about him (such as a key, a knife, or a piece of money), they put it into the corner of a hayk or garment, and covers it over, waiting till some stranger or uninterested person appears, whom they engage to take out of the garment before mentioned, the different articles deposited therein, and to place one on each of the parcels or lots of feathers and meat, when each person takes up that portion on which the article belonging to him is placed; they then separate, and retire to their respective douars, where they regale themselves and their families with the produce of their sport. The flesh of the ostrich is by no means palatable to an European; it is a dark coloured and strong meat; the fat is much esteemed in medicine for all kinds of bruises and sprains, and is sold at a very high price: but money will not always procure it, friendship or hospitality being more powerful in these regions than even money itself! this medicine, therefore, is often procurable only through the former. The feathers are sold by the hunters to the agents of the merchants of Mogodor established at Wedinoon, for the purpose of transportation finally to Europe, to adorn the heads of our fashionable females.
Writing as I am for the information of merchants as well as others, it may not be unacceptable to my readers, some ofwhom may perhaps be induced to form establishments in those unknown regions, to learn the method of purchasing ostrich feathers in West and South Barbary. It is as follows:
A quintal, or 100 lbs. weight, is thus distributed according to custom from time immemorial:
N.B. The feathers denominated Zumar, are preferable to Long Black, and these are preferable to Lobar. To this quintal of assorted feathers are added 6 lb. 4 oz. of passable or fine feathers, which are delivered in the following proportions:
These 12 oz. over the quintal are brought into imaginary pieces, or single feathers; thus 4½ surplus face feathers are equivalent to one ounce, so that 12 oz. will make fifty-four feathers; the contract will therefore stand thus:
which sum is equivalent to 948⁶⁄₁₀ Mexico dollars.
But custom makes 100 feathers count for 22 oz. without the fraction before mentioned.
This explanation may give some idea of the mode of purchasing this article of commerce, which requires much practice and experience, before the purchaser will be free from imposition. There are but two or three persons at Mogodor who perfectly understand it, and the method of passing them at the custom-house.
The price here affixed is the average. The competition among the Jews, and the almost entire monopolization of the Marocco trade by these people, has latterly enhanced the price; for, by contriving to exclude the English, and the Christians in general, as much as possible from commerce, they are too often induced to trade beyond their capital, and by frequently overstocking the market, cause a forced trade, thereby throwing the profits, which before were reaped by the European, into the hands of the natives; the consequence of this is, that the Emperor, displeased at his subjects becoming too suddenly rich, exacts an additional duty on the exportion of the article, whereupon its price in the country immediately falls, and the surplus of profit is, by this policy, thrown into the imperial exchequer.
The Vulture (Nesser).— Excepting the ostrich, this is the largest bird in Africa; it is common in all places where the gum ammoniac plant grows, and it is said to feed on the horned beetle, which lives upon that plant. In the plains east of El Araiche, where the plant abounds, I have seen at least twenty of these birds in the air at once, darting down on the insects with astonishing rapidity. They build their nests on lofty precipices, high rocks, and in dreary parts of the mountains. Mr. Bruce calls this bird the Nessir, or golden eagle, but I apprehend he has committed an error in denominating it an eagle, the generical name of which, in the Arabic language, is El Bezz.
The Eagle.—Bezz el Horreh designates the largest species of eagle, with undescribably clear and beautiful eyes of an orange colour. I shot one of these birds in crossing the Atlas mountains between Marocco and Terodant, and attempted to preserve it for the purpose of sending it to Europe, but it died on the third day. This is the bird which is reported by the Africans to engender the dragon on the female hyæna; a chimera originating undoubtedly in some Arabian fable or allegorical tradition, though generally credited by the inhabitants of Atlas, who affirm the dragon thus engendered to have the wings and beak of an eagle, a serpent’s tail, and short feet like a hyæna, the eye-lids never closed, and that it lives in caves like the hyæna.
Hawks and Falcons.—The Shereefs and Bashaws, and higher orders of society, are much attached to falconry. Muley Teib, brother to the present Emperor, was passionately fond of this kind of sport, and had the best falcons in the country. They teach these young hawks dexterously to fly at and catch ducks, wild-geese, partridges, hares, bustards, and antelopes; the latter, however, is too strong to be held by the falcon, which hoversabout its head, and impedes its progress, till the greyhounds come up with it and secure it. I have hunted with the prince Muley Teib and his falconers several times, accompanied by Dr. Bell, an English surgeon who attended him.
White Herons (Bufullel).—The white heron differs from the garde bœufs[107]) ox-keepers; it is called bufula in the singular number; the garde bœuf is called by the Arabs Teer el bukkera, which signifiesthe cow bird, as the large red-spotted lizard is called Erdar el bukkera, because it sucks the cows’ milk. A person might, however, easily mistake the garde bœuf for the white heron, as I did once myself; having killed about a hundred at different times, I have often shot the former for the latter; the Arabs always persuaded me they were not the same; and in fact so I found, for I never saw a heron killed near a cow; they are found on the banks of rivers, where they feed on worms; at a distance of fifty yards, they are exactly the same in appearance; the heron, however, when examined, appears to differ in the colour of the legs, which are black, whereas those of the garde bœuf are yellowish, or brown: the heron has two long narrow feathers on the crown of the head, hanging over the neck; the garde bœuf has none: the heron has from twenty to a hundred aigrette feathers on its back; the garde bœuf has none. With regard to what is said in the note below,[108]it may be observed that the transposition or omissionof one point or dot, in the Arabic language, is sufficient to make bufula, bukula; nay more, what is bukula in the west, is written the same in the east, and pronounced bufula, for thekof the western Arabs is thesof the eastern. But the curlew is called bukula, and the white heron, or egret, bufula in the east, as well as in the west.
The Bustardabounds in the provinces of Temsena, Benihassen, and Duquella; some are also found in Abda and Suse: being a shy bird, the Arabs approach it gradually, and in a circular line: when they reach within a hundred yards, they fall down, and creep along the ground gently till they come within shot. The flesh of this bird is much esteemed, and is considered an acceptable present by men of high rank.
The Stork (B’elharge.)—The general colour of the stork’s plumage is white, the extremities of the wings being tipped with black; they are from two to three feet in height from the feet to the bill. During the summer, the old towns of West Barbary are frequented by these birds, which go generally in pairs: they are migratory, and when they do not return to their usual haunts at the accustomed season, it is considered ominous of evil. Any person that should presume to shoot this sacred bird, would incur the resentment of the whole city, and be accounted a sacrilegious infidel; for, besides being of the greatest utility in destroying serpents and other noxious reptiles, they are also emblematical of faith and conjugal affection, and on that account held in the highest estimation by all true Mooselmin. They build their nests, which are curious, on thetop of some old tower or castle, or on the terraces of uninhabited houses, where they constantly watch their young, exposed to the scorching rays of the sun. They will not suffer any one to approach their nests.
The cities and towns of Mequinas, Fas, Marocco, Muley Driss Zerone, Rabat, Salée, El Araiche, Azamore, and Saffy, are annually visited by the stork; there are none at Mogodor, it being not only a new town, but situated on a peninsula, at the extremity of vast heaps of moving sand, which separate it from the cultivated country, and prevent serpents and other noxious animals from harbouring there.
The Partridge.—This beautiful bird abounds in every part of West Barbary; it is larger, and finer feathered than that of Europe; the legs are red. The Moors have a peculiar manner ofhuntingthe partridge: in the plains of Akkermute and Jibbel Hedded, in Shedma, they take various kinds of dogs with them, from the greyhound to the shepherd’s dog, and following the birds, on horseback, and allowing them no time to rest, they soon fatigue them, when they are taken by the dogs: but as the Mooselmin eats nothing but what has had its throat cut, he takes out his knife, and exclaiming (Bismillah), “In the name of God,” cuts the throat of the game, and by letting it bleed destroys the flavour; for this reason game is not esteemed at the repasts of the Arabs, where mutton and beef are preferred; lamb and veal are unlawful, it being an injunction of the Mohammedan law to eat nothing till it is full grown, which is one cause of the great quantity of cattle which feed in the plains.
El Rogr.—This bird is similar to the English partridge, having however darker plumage; it is found only in arid stony places, where the shrubs are stunted, and in all (harushe) plainsor places covered with basaltic rocks; but I believe no where else, except when on the wing to drink at some river, which they do regularly at noon and at sun-set; basking in the sun all the day, and pecking at the harsh stunted shrubs found in the above mentioned situations. The Rogr is unknown in Europe, according to Dr. Broussonet, an eminent botanist, for whom I shot several during his residence at Mogodor, in the quality of French Chargé des Affaires.
Pigeons.—Pigeons, denominated El Hammem by the Arabs, are in prodigious numbers all over West Barbary, tame as well as wild: the turtle dove (called El Imam) also abounds in the woods and gardens, adding considerably, by their plaintive notes, to the soothing pleasures of the country. There are immense quantities of wild pigeons in the island of Mogodor, which build their nests in the holes, and excavated rocks of the island; and as it is unlawful to shoot there, it being the state prison of the empire, they are harmless and domesticated. Early in the morning, they fly in immense flocks, to the adjacent province of Haha, where they feed on the corn and vegetables during the day, and return about an hour before sun set.
The beautiful cream-coloured dove, with a black ring round its neck, is a native of Marocco and Terodant.
Curlews (Bukullel[109]).—These birds abound in various parts of West Barbary, and are so numerous at El Waladia, that one would imagine it was the roosting place for all the curlews on the earth; the peninsula which encompasses the large bay of water at this place, being rocky and uninhabited, is full of all kinds of them; it is a very delicious bird when the blood is not lost by the throat being cut.
Tibib.—The sparrow, denominated Zuzuh, is rare in most parts of Barbary; but the Tibib, which resembles it, is very common: this little bird visits the houses every morning, coming into the rooms undismayed. It is originally an inhabitant of Atlas, from whence it was brought by an English merchant[110]about twenty years since, to Mogodor, where the breed has continued to multiply ever since.
The Crested Larkis common also in this country.
The Cuckoo, Deekuke, as it is called by the Arabs, is a gray bird, with large black spots, having much feather, and long wings, with a small and short body. They are esteemed a delicacy by the Arabs. I shot some one day for the purpose of tasting them, and found them extremely delicate, and not inferior to a partridge.
El Hage.This is a small cinereous coloured bird, and scarcely so large as the common blackbird; it lives upon beetles and other insects of a similar kind, which it never eats till they begin to putrify; it frequents thorny bushes, on the upper thorns of which it sticks the beetles, where remaining till they begin to decay, the Hage, in passing through the air is attracted by their scent, and feeds upon them. The argan tree is the favourite resort of this bird; on the top, or some conspicuous part of which, it is generally seen, and often alone, without its female. It is called El Hage, because it accompanies the caravans to Mecca;[111]it is therefore held to be a sacred bird; on this account it would be imprudent to shoot it in presence ofany Mooselmin. As they destroy beetles and vermin, they are certainly entitled to the deference paid to them; and are canonized, perhaps, from having visited the tomb of Mohammed.
The Owl.—The owl of Africa (called Muka) is similar to that of Europe, having the eye of a bright yellow. The screech owl (called Saher) is an ominous bird, and is superstitiously thought to be the forerunner of evil.
The same variety of fish that is found in the Mediterranean is caught on the shores of West and South Barbary. Of the fresh water fish,
Shebbel—is in most request; it is similar to our salmon, but neither so large nor so red in the flesh, though extremely rich and delicate. Immense quantities are caught in the rivers of Barbary, particularly in those of El Kos, Mamora, Tensift, and Suse: they are salted, or baked and preserved for the supply of Bled-el-jerrêde, and other places of the interior, even as far as Soudan; but the greatest consumption of the dried shebbel is in Bled-el-jerrêde, where the inhabitants live for the most part on dates, as these fish are accounted a corrective of any ill effects produced from eating immoderately of that fruit.
The people who catch the shebbel give to the Emperor a per centage by way of duty.
There is a very considerable fishery on this coast, managed by the Spaniards from the Canary Islands, which extends from lat. N 20° 30′ to lat. N. 29°, being nearly 600 miles, and abounds in all kinds of excellent fish; as there is at present no town, village, or fixed habitation on the coast, within the district above mentioned, the Spaniards fish unmolested; neither do cruizersever approach these parts, except by accident, so that the fishermen are secure from capture. In the spring and summer the fish are said to abound on the northern part of this extent of coast; and as the autumn approaches, they go gradually southward. Whilst I was established at Agadeer, I saw many kinds of curious fish which I have never seen in any other part of Africa or Europe.
Whales.—About the coast of Africa, from Agadeer to Arguin, whales are frequently cast on shore,[112]deluded, perhaps, like the unfortunate mariners, who being led away imperceptibly by the impetuosity of a deceitful current, are ashore before they are aware of being even near the land. Whenever the whale is cast ashore, ambergris is found on the shore, and is brought to Agadeer for sale. The Moors being very partial to this perfume, consume all that comes to market; so that none is sent to Europe. It is called in Arabic El Amber, and is supposed to possess highly stimulating qualities, for which purpose it is often infused in tea by the African Arabs, Moors, and others.